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Collection  de 
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Canadian  Instituta  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


.       Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notos/Notas  tachniques  at  bibliographiquas 

The  Institute  hat  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
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Pages  dicolories,  tacheties  ou  piqudes 

1 — 1    Coloured  maps/ 

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Commentairas  supplimentaires; 


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of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Icaaping  with  tha 
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tha  last  paga  with  a  printact  or  illustratad  impraa- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  .  <ian  approprlata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustratad  imprassion. 


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shall  contain  tha  symbol  — ^-  (moaning  "CON- 
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whichavar  applias. 


L'axamplaira  film*  f ut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
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Douglas  Library 
Quaan's  Univarsity 

Laa  imagas  suivantas  ont  AtA  raproduitas  avac  la 
plua  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axamplaira  film*,  at  mn 
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par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
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d'Impraasion  ou  d'lllustration,  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  filmto  an  commanpant  par  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'Impraasion  ou  d'lllustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 

Un  das  symbolas  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  —►  signifia  "A  SUiVRE",  la 
symbols  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


Maps,  platas,  charts,  ate,  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thosa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  includad  in  ona  axposura  ara  filmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  cornar,  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framas  as 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrams  illustrata  tha 
mathod: 


Las  cartas,  planchas,  tablaaux,  ate,  pauvant  Atra 
filmte  A  das  taux  da  reduction  diff Arants. 
Lorsqua  la  documant  ast  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
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da  I'angia  supAriaur  gaucha,  da  gausha  A  droita, 
at  da  haut  an  has,  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d'imagas  nAcassaira.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthoda. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

i 

3 

4 

6 

6 

iiiiwiWi    ,  ...III  I  mill  I  I" 


LETTERS 


noU  TBB 


UNITED  STATES,  CUBA  AND  CANADA. 


BY    THK 


HON.  AMELIA  M.  MURRAY. 


TWO  VOLUMES  COMPLETE  IN  ONE. 


NEW  YORK: 
O.  P.  PUTNAM  &  COMPANY,  321  BROADWAY, 


OPPOSITB  FXABL  BTRXET. 

1867. 


^4, Ms 


JoHW  F.  Tbow, 

rriator  aud  Stereotyper,  N(it.  311  ik  V9  BrvadwiV 

C/nUT*f  WUlflnitt. 


PREFACE. 


•♦• 


The  writer  of  these  letters  did  not  cross  the  Atlantic  to 
make  a  book.  She  has  no  wish  to  enter  into  controversy, 
or  to  be  supposed  a  partisan ;  but  facts  can  never  injure 
truth,  on  whichever  side  it  may  lie  ;  and  statements  made 
with  fidelity  and  accuracy  ought  to  be  welcome.  To 
shrink  from  their  perusal  is  to  exclude  (in  the  present 
case)  one  means  of  knowing  the  condition  and  probable 
future  of  that  race  for  whom  a  deep  interest  is  felt  by 
the  British  public,  as  well  as  by  the  writer  of  these  pages, 
however  different  her  convictions  may  be  from  the  opin- 
ions commonly  maintained. 

Should  anything  here  written  excite  bitter  feelings,  or 
cause  individual  pain,  the  error  must  not  be  thought  in- 
tentional. A.  M.  M. 


mMB 


^^^^M 


mm:^'^'' 


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CONTENTS. 


•♦• 


The  voyage  to  Halifax— Our  Fellow-passengers— A  novel  Eevlver        ....       9 

LETTER  II. 

Boston— The  Harbour— The  First  Luxury — Mount  Auburn  Cemetery— My  Present 
Plans — The  Athencenm— Pleasant  Location—'  Look-out  for  the  Locomotive  '— 
An  Agreeable  Introduction. — Botanical  Kescarches 18 

LETTEli  IIL 
Wenham  Lake— Cockle-Craft— Eagle   Head — Boston — Statue  of  Washirfrton— Now- 
port — Water  Quadrilles — A  New  Vegetable— American  Kindness— P  i    ITowe     .       27 

LETTER  IV. 
Boston— The  Slavery  Question 87 

LETTER  V. 

The  hite  Mountains  Tour— Railway  Arrangements— Alton  Bay— ^The  Paper  Birch 
—Centre  Harbour — New  Acquaintance — Mount  Willard— A  Hasty  Judgment — 
The  Hotel  House— The  Profile  House— Forest  Fires 40 

LETTER  VL 

Pleasant  Rambles— The  Flume — An  Evening  Party— The  "White  Mountains — Pem- 
mewhassset— Wells  River— An  Early  Breakfast— Burlington— Connecticut  Biver 
— Rattlesnakes— Quebec— Night  Voyage — Spencer  Wood 40 

LETTER  Vn. 

Quebec— Spencer  Wood— A  Comparison— A  Paradox— Lord  Elgin — The  House  of 
Deputies — The  Premier's  Speech— Deeds,  not  Words— Monsieur  Brodeur — In- 
consistencies        , 60 

LETTEP  Vni. 

Quebec- The  Clergy  Reserves— Tl(|^  Industrial  Exhibition— A  Malcontent— A  Bo- 
tanical Excursion — Curious  Meteoric  Light — Visit  to  a  Squaw — Variable  Wea- 
ther—Canadian Pensioners — Lord  Elgin— Canadian  Ladies 71 


6 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  IX.  rAM 

Montreal— Tictoria  Bridge— St.  Ililaire— A  Pretty  Edifice— Silver  Heights— Ottawa 
Elver- Le  Petite  Nation— Tlio  Mnssncre— Natural  History— Falls  of  the  Ottawa 
—Officious  Care- A  Field  for  Enterprise 60 

LETTER  X. 
Iiako  Ontario — Rldeau  Canal— Autumn  Forest-Tints— Lord  Elgin— Scat  of  Govern- 
ment—Tho  Future  of  Canada— liivcr  St  Lawrence — Primitive  Locomotion — 
Rice  Lake — Toronto — Toronto  Cathedral— Demonstration  at  Hamilton— Milton- 
Falls  of  Niagara—  A  Profitable  Estate    ....  ...  98 

LETTER  XL 
Niagara— Manners  of  the  Squaws— An  Old  Irishwoman— Lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair— 
Detroit— A  perfect  Panorama— Sandwicb-A    Penitent  Runaway- Scarcity  of 
Servants— Cleveland— Battle  of  the  Alma— Caynga  Lake— Ithaca— 'Forest  City' 
—Homer 112 

LETTER  XIL 

Albany— Governor  Seymour— A  Transatlantic  Wedding— The  Museum— The  Slave 
Problem- Tlw  American  Clergy— The  Penitentiary — Indian  Thanksgivings- 
Origin  of  the  Party  Names— A  Paternal  Governor— A  Manxman— Youthfhl 
Heroism— Community  of  Shakers — ^Tho  Letter  of  the  Law— Probabilities       .       120 

LETTER  XIIL 

New  York— The  Broadway— Greenwood  Cemetery— Rev.  Henry  "Ward  Beecher— 
Philanthropic  Institutions— Social  Engagements— Doctrine  of  Compensations — 
The  Maine  Law— Washington  Irving— An  Unbiassed  Testimonial- Sectarian 
Assumption — Hopes  for  the  Future -       .       144 

LETTER  XIV. 

New  York- The  Five  Points— Doginai ism— Baltimore — Sisters  of  Charity— Wash- 
ington—The  Capitol  and  Museum — Negroes  and  their  Masters — A  Motley  As- 
semblage—The  Twig  and  Tree       158 

LETTER  XV. 

The  New  Year — Washington  and  Andr6— Character  of  the  '  Know-nothings ' — Oc- 
cupation of  Congress— Smithsonian  Institute — Woman's  Mission— Cuba  and  her 
Wnmgs— A  Questionable  Alternative — A  Postulate 108 

LETTER  XVI. 
Washington— Papal  Jurisdiction— Extinction  of  the  Tribes — Presidential  Evening- 
Mormon  Domesticity — oflfers  of  Marriage— Characteristics  of  the  South  Ameri- 
can IndllTercnce- Benjamin  Franklin— Richmond— The  Observatory— Railroad 
Companions— Unpleasant  Incidents— Statue  of  Washington— General  Dilaplda- 
tlon— Charlottesville— The  University — Road  to  Staunton— Lexington— Perils  on 
the  Road- The  Natural  Bridge— Scenery  on  the  Powhatan — Geological  Features — 
Links  Canal-boat—Petorsburg— Wilmington— Mr.  Cushing  on  the  War— Superior 
Cultivation— Black  Servants 17» 

LETTER  XVIL 
Charleston— Masters  and  Slaves—'  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  '—Darkies  as  Nurses— North 
and  Soutii- Negro  Characteristics — The  Tillandsia  Usnoldes— Botanizing— Mag- 
nolia Cemetery— Southern  Habits-  -Belmont — Observations  on  Slavery    .       .       19? 


OONTESTS.  7 

LETTER  XVIIL  w«« 

SftVknnah,  Georgla^A  Rebeccfr— Negro  Character— Mistake  of  Enxllsh  Philanthro- 
pists— Baonaventura  Cemetery — A  Collision — Betum  to  Savanab — Darieii— Flan* 
tation— Tlie  African  Bace — Misdirected  Zeal — Debts  of  the  States— An  UnbTor- 
able  Contrast— Negro  Indolence— Alligators 810 

LETTER  XIX. 
Hopeton-Topsy— Slave  Honesty— Brunswick— A  rrimitlve  Post-Office— Palatka— 
A  Shell  Land— Silver  Bpring—Botanizing— Democratic  Despotism— Tea  Ser- 
vico— The  Silver  Spring-Hotels  in  Americar— Tiger  Cat— Log>Dwelliug— Ocala 
—Old  Dick's  View  of  Slavery— Pantbers—JacksonvUle— Charleston— Unoiual 
Cold 284 

LETTER  XX. 
The  Oennlne  Sea-Serpent— Lighthouse— Key  West— Approach  to  the  Harbor- 
Havana— The  Anti-Slavery  Movement— Buyers  and  Sellers— Mrs.  Crawford'a 
Reception — A  Spanish  Dog— Plc-Nic— The  Capltan  Generalts— Negro  Depreda- 
tions— The  Coolies— Volantes — Matanzas— Cocoa-Nuts— Sugar-Crusbins^Yamorri 
—Geological  Speculations 289 

LETTl^  ?XL 
Matanzss — Monsieur  — 's  Plantation — Sympathy  with  the  Cubans — Aboriginal  Race 
— Return  to  Ilavanar— Anecdote  of  a  Slave  Merchant — Abolitionist  Notions — 
The  Cabanos— Filibusterers — ^Turpitude  of  the  Blacks— Ramon  Pinto— Popular 
Sports — Snake  Milker— Position  of  England— The  Future  of  Cuba— Spanish  Misrule 
— Execution  of  Ramon  Pinto — ^Mrs.  Stowe — ^Low  Moral  Condition  of  the  Cubans 
— ^New  Orleans 804 

LETTER  XXIL 
New  Orleans— Musquito  Net— Slavery  v.  Freedom — A  Penitent  Fugitive — Separa- 
tion of  Negro  Families— The  Opewr-Cuban  Watch  Cries — Cuban  Law — Dinner 
at  the  British  Coi^sul's — In  the  Busb — Railroad  Accidents — Cbatawa — Detention 
at  Osyka— Asylum  for  Widows— Ne'/ro  'Privilege  '—Unhealthy  Locality— Pinto's 
Conspiracy — Remarks  on  Slavery — Diorama  of  Pilgrim's  Progress — ^The  Mississippi 
— Llberiar— A  Paternal  Slavel'.older— A  High-mettled  Racer— British  Heroism- 
Address  to  Americans  ........       863 


LETTER  XXIIL 
Clerical  View  of  Slavery— Transatlantic  Sympathy— Negro  Character 


S87 


LETTER  XXIV. 
Indian  Tribes— Parisian  Pcrruqulers— Bayou  Navigation — ^Ronte  to  Washington- 
Planetary  Conjunction— Horned  Frogs — Fossilized  Forest — A  Lonely  Situation — 
Crocket — Dignity  of  a  Texan  Hostess — Alexandria — Novel  Road- Making — Pros- 
pect for  Emigrants— Birds  and  Snakes — Red  River— Scarcity  of  Work:aeu-— 
Letter  on  Slavery— Fireflies— Effects  of  a  Drought— Eclipse  of  the  Moon  .       290 

LETTER  XXV. 

Street  Architecture— Stockport— Montgomery — An  Aunty — An  Intelligent  Negro— 
Ston)  Mountain— A  Polite  Guide — An  Obliging  Landlord — A  Juvenile  Coach- 
man—American  Romancing— '  Cactus  Rattaillense ' — AcbtUe  Murat — Nashville — 
Mrs.  Polk. 808 


:[ 


8 


CONTENTS. 


LETTER  XXVI. 

Mammoth  Cave— Treatment  of  Travellers— A  Slave  Guide— Mocking-biras—£ven< 
tualities— A  Negru  Beauty— Louisville— Cincinnati— Tlie  Victoria  Rcgia— A  Gener- 
io  Term— Future  of  CincinDati- A  rrecipice  Town— Dr.  Johnson  on  Slavery— 
An  Example— Sunday  Sctiool  Teaching- An  Expectant  Millenarian— Benevolent 
Institutions — Democracy  and  Despotism — A  Consistent  Republican — A  Govern- 
or's Lev6e— Musio  in  America— The  Btone  Mountain— The  Bluffs  of  the  Whit© 
Elver- Error  of  Editorship— English  Aristocracy- Calling  Names— The  Temper* 
ance  Legislatare — Bribery      ........       819 

LETTER  XXVIL 

Albany— A  Wedding— Ticonderoga— Thunderstorm — Girard  College — A  Coal  District 
—Travelling  by  Gravitation — Increase  of  Episcopacy— Geological  Riches— Mon- 
trose— Novel  Churn — Valley  of  Peace — Baptism  and  Confirmation — Elmira— Lake 
Rosa— Pleasant  Travellers— Utica— Bishop  Elliott  on  Slavery — A  Negro  Wedding 
— A  Negro  Funeral— Indian  '  Sacred  Stone '— Cazenovia— Fine  Prospects — Ornitho- 
logy— Bural  Hotel— American  Excavator— A  Forest  Swama— Trenton  Falla— The 
Boiling  Pot 838 

LETTER  XiXVIIL 
Indian  NomencUlure — A  Shaker  Village — Cambridge — A  Troublesome  Negro— Whites 
In  the  Northern  States— Slavery  an  Ordination  of  God— A  Brotherly  Act— Travel- 
ling-bag—Life-preserver— The  Wise  Men  of  the  West— Inhabited  Planets— Frozen 
Wells— The  Zodiacal  Light— Gigantic  Frog— Free  Black  Mortality— Wheatley 
Lead  Mines — Mr.  Abbott  Lawrence — Military  Cadets— Palace  of  the  Hills — Cnats- 
klll  Waterfall— Educational  Convention— Statcn  Island— East  River — American 
Crystal  Palace — Ailanthus  Glandulosa  ......       863 

LETTER  XXIX. 

Saratoga— Miscreants — Lake  George— Gipsy  Expedition — Our  Progress— SaranacLaka 
— Our  First  Encampment— Preparations  for  Breakfast— Good  Fishing— Deer  Hunt- 
ing—Our Tents— Our  Toilet— Long  Lake— 'A  Fix'— Variety  of  Funguses— A 
Stormy  Night— A  Picturesque  Medley— The  Eight  Lakes— A  Word  to  Travellers 
— ^Modern  Mirandus — 'Necessity  has  no  Law' — Departure  of  the  Guides — A  Neg- 
lected Road— Early  Memories — Blind  Owen— A  Prairie  District— American  and 
English  Soldiers — Uncourteous  Manners      ......       874 

LETTER  XXX. 
Aboriginal  City— St  Lotiis— Chicago— Alton— '  Women '  and  •  Ladies '-Milwankie— 
Iron    Mountain— State  Fair- A  Word  to  Travellers— Want  of  Consideration- 
American  Society— Dark  Rooms— The  'Lady  Elgin '—Wilful  Misdirection— Silu- 
rian  Fosails— Indian  Names— Bemarks  on  Slavery— Epilogue     .  .  .       SMt 


LETTER  I. 


THE     VOYAGE     TO     HALIFAX. 

On  Board  thk  Canada,  ) 

Banks  of  Nbwfodndland,  July  29, 1854.  f 

My  Dear  Friends, — 

A  week  ago,  on  the  22nd,  we  left  the  Mersey  at  11  o'clock, 
A.  M. ;  but  this  is  the  first  moment  that  head,  hands,  and  eyes  have 
been  willing  to  work  together  for  the  purpose  of  writing.  Captain 
Stone  says  he  may  put  letters  into  a  bag  at  Halifax,  and  that  we 
are  likely  to  arrive  there  on  Monday  night  or  Tuesday  morning, 
so  I  will  try  to  have  this  ready. 

Good,  kind  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rathbone  had  exhausted  every  pos- 
sible thought  for  my  present  and  future  comfort ;  and  Mr.  Rath- 
bone  crowned  all  by  conveying  me  to  the  steamer  in  the  Jachal 
mail  tender  at  the  last  moment,  that  I  might  not  spend  a  single 
unnecessary  hour  on  board. 

The  sun  shone  cheerily,  the  lively  breeze  was  but  just  suffi- 
cient to  give  a  gay  jaunty  air  to  flags  and  sails,  and  no  sensation, 
either  sad  or  nervous,  affected  me,  to  mar  the  pleasant  scene.  I 
found  my  two  companions  already  in  the  ship,  and  my  case  of 
plants  happily  established  behind  the  wheel-house,  where  the 
steersman  sits  comfortably  sheltered,  and  almost  hidden  from 
view. 

I  arranged  my  cushions,  cloaks,  and  books  on  the  deck,  so  as 
to  make  me  a  back  of  the  mizen-mast,  atid  in  the  persuasion  that 
I  was  about  to  pass  a  most  agreeable  and  intellectual  afternoon,  I 
I* 


• 


10 


THE   VOYAGE   TO   HALIFAX. 


i!  ! 
I 

I  ■ 
I  . 


sat  down  to  enjoy  myself,  with  Mrs.  F — '—  by  my  side.  I  had 
often  heard  of  the  Bell  buoy,  but  no  very  particular  idea  had 
ever  been  suggested  by  its  name.  In  the  reality,  however,  there 
was  something  very  solemn  and  affecting — its  deep-measured 
musical  sound  booming  over  the  sea.  It  called  up  the  first  sad- 
dening thought  that  had  yet  crossed  my  imagination — the 
thought,  that  for  how  many  gallant  ships  that  had  gone  forth, 
hopeful  and  cheerful  as  our  own,  had  it  tolled  a  knell. 

The  wind  freshened,  the  motion  deepened,  and  in  less  than  an 
hour  my  companion  was  compelled  to  desert  me.  I  endeavoured 
to  preserve  a  stout  opinion  of  my  own  good  sailorship,  and  opened 
a  book,  but  as  that  demanded  too  much  attention,  I  changed  it 
for  the  Illustrated  London  Neios,  of  which  I  accomplished  one 
column,  and  then  tried  a  nap.  Thus  I  maintained  my  position 
till  about  three  o'clock,  when  no  resolution  would  longer  avail, 
and  I  was  forced  to  call  for  help.  I  almost  threw  myself  into 
the  arms  of  the  stewardess,  who  still  asserts  that  I  am  an  excel- 
lent sailor ;  I  am  willing  to  believe  her,  as  I  never  arrived  at  the 
conclusion  of  most  great  sufferers,  that  it  would  be  a  mercy  to 
throw  me  overboard ;  and  on  Monday  I  created  quite  a  sensation 
among  the  stewards  in  the  saloon,  by  appearing  ready  dressed  for 
breakfast  soon  after  seven  o'clock,  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  eight 
o'clock  soon  becomes  seven  in  crossing  the  Atlantic.  However, 
DO  harm  was  done.  I  sat  down,  and  <found  myself  able  to  read 
through  the  Illustrated  News,  which  had  become  incomprehensi- 
ble to  me  at  the  second  page  on  Saturday ;  and  though  that  was 
the  extent  of  my  literary  efforts  for  twenty-four  hours,  I  hailed  it 
as  a  symptom  of  convalescence.  My  friends  on  board  were  still 
hois  de  combat,  and  did  not  revive  to  an  enjoyment  of  existence 
until  two  days  later.  On  Tuesday,  Hugh  Miller's  Schools  and 
ScJioolmasters  became  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  me ;  and  to- 
day I  can  write  as  well  as  read  without  inconvenience.  There 
arc  not  more  than  three  or  four  English  among  our  fellow-passen- 
gers. Canadians,  Germans,  French,  but  chiefly  Americans,  make 
up  a  hundred  guests,  entertained  in  the  chief  saloon  by  our 
:}aptain.     Not  more  than  twenty  of  these  are  women.     There  are 


OUR   FBLLOW-FASSBNGEBS. 


u 


Beventy-fonr  second-class  passengers  besides.  All  are  kind,  socia- 
ble and  gentlemanly.     Three  of  the  men  were  formerly  known  to 

my  friend,  Mrs.  F ,  and  I  am  becoming  well  acquainted  with 

them.  It  is  very  agreeable,  as  well  as  useful,  to  have  some  gen- 
tlemen in  the  party  from  whom  we  can  ask  and  receive  kind 
offices  without  scruple ;  and  when  these  are  bestowed  by  men  of 
cultivated  minds  and  Christian  courtesy,  improvement  as  well  as 
pleasure  must  be  the  result  of  the  voyage. 

Sunday^  July  30. — Such  a  lovely  morning.  Air  enough,  sun 
enough,  sea  enough.  But  I  missed  seeing  three  whales,  and  also 
a  sight  of  the  Asia  steamer  on  her  way  to  Liverpool,  by  my 
doubts  as  to  the  propriety  of  making  my  appearance  on  deck 
soon  after  five  in  the  morning,  as  I  did  yesterday.  Captain 
Stone,  however,  promised  to  send  a  messenger  to  my  cabin  door 
on  future  occasions  of  the  same  kind. 

We  had  two  magnificent  sunsets  on  the  passage — one  last 
night  and  one  on  Thursday.  I  had  never  till  now  beheld  the  sun 
go  down  without  a  cloud  or  speck  of  land  in  sight.  It  was  very 
striking.  A  young  silvery  moon  stood  just  above  us,  and  the 
scene  reminded  me  of  Turner's  picture,  '  The  Old  T6m6raire.' 

It  seems  we  passed  Newfoundland  early  in  the  morning,  and 
I  would  have  '  turned  out '  to  see  it,  had  I  known  in  time. 
Yesterday  we  were  on  the  Banks,  and  saw  one  schooner  drawing 
up  cod-fish  out  fit  the  water.  Some  fog  attended  our  passage 
over  these  Banks,  which  are  so  called  because  soundings  can  be 
made  over  them,  while  the  main  sea  is  unfathomable. 

Health  is  now  restored  to  the  passengers.  A  cheerful  tone 
of  feeling  pervades  the  saloon,  where  we  all  resort  to  read,  write, 
play  at  chess,  or  whist;  converse  in  groups  or  pairs,  or  take  a 
sound  nap  in  the  midst  of  noise  and  bustle. 

In  our  whole  society,  I  do  not  find  pne  person  acquainted 
with  the  vegetable  world,  except  as  regards  the  edible  individuals 
belonging  to  it.  One  poor  lady  yras  distressed  yesterday  at  the 
apparent  failure  of  her  endeavour  to  cultivate,  and  revive  a  little 
plant  of  Miinulus  moschatus,  by  sending  it  to  the  ice-house.  I 
rescued  the  poor  thing  from  the  frozen  regions,  out  off  its  perished 


12 


TBE  VOTAOB  TO  BALOTAX. 


shoots,  and  begged  its  owner  to  give  it  a  sunny  berth  with  a 
tombler  placed  over  it  to  save  the  yet  surviving  roots  from  the 
sea-spray ;  but  life  was  too  far  gone  to  recover  it. 

I  was  fortunate  before  leaving  England,  accidentally  entering 
a  bookseller's  shop  in  Leamington,  to  find  two  interesting  new 
publications,  Hugh  Miller's  Schools  and  Schoolmasters,  and  Mur- 
chison's  SUuria.  They  not  only  interest  me  deeply,  but  afford 
pleasant  reading  to  my  associates. 

July  31. — The  sun  set  in  a  bank  of  clouds,  and  we  have  had 
some  wind  and  rain  in  the  night ;  finding  my  berth  close,  I  was 
on  deck  very  early.  The  Captain  of  an  American  merchant  ship 
showed  me  a  Mother  Gary's  chicken  which  was  flying  just  above 
the  water  near  us.  He  gave  a  decided  opinion  that  the  best  manner 
of  combating  sea-sickness  is  by  determined  exertion,  and  by  get- 
ting up  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  first  attack.  He  says  the 
first  effort  is  equally  great  whether  it  is  made  the  second  day  or 
the  twentieth ;  he  has  known  people  keep  their  bed  eighteen  days, 
and  suffer  just  as  much  at  the  end  of  that  time  in  their  attempts 
to  sit  upright  as  they  could  have  done  seventeen  days  sooner ;  so 
that  the  earlier  the  battle  is  begun  the  sooner  it  is  over.  This 
morning  there  is  more  sea  than  we  have  yet  had,  and  I  bear  it 
well.  It  is  expected  that  we  may  reach  Halifax  late  this  after- 
noon, perhaps  not  till  eight  or  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening.  I 
shall  be  sorry  if  the  hour  will  not  allow  us  to  land ;  but  I  am 
told  that  it  is  a  custom  among  the  inhabitants  to  hght  up  their 
houses  when  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  is  known,  and  that  will  bo 
a  pretty  sight.  In  case  I  should  not  be  able  to  add  to  this  letter, 
I  will  conclude  it  now. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


LETTER  n. 


BOSTON, 


'      On  Board  ths  Canada.  ) 
August  1,  1SS4        ) 

My  dear  Friends,— 

My  letter  was  put  into  the  ship  bag  before  we  arrived  in 
the  fine  Bay  of  Halifax,  about  nine  o'clock  last  evening.  An 
hour  earlier  we  could  have  seen  the  town  and  distant  country  to 
greater  advantage ;  but  it  would  have  been  ungrateful  indeed  to 
require  more,  when  we  were  already  blessed  by  so  much.  An  off- 
shore wind,  soft  and  balmy  ;  the  sea  like  an  inland  lake,  reflect- 
ing, as  in  a  golden  mirror,  each  little  boat ;  brilliant  paths  of  light, 
derived  from  moon  or  lighthouse,  or  shore  lamp ;  a  full  round  red 
sun  had  sunk  behind  the  town  and  bay,  but  he  left  behind  him  an 
hour's  twilight  of  crimson  and  gold,  which  had  also  vanished  be- 
fore our  ship  touched  the  Nova  Scotian  shore.  We  made  a  party 
for  walking  about  Halifax  by  moonlight.  The  streets  appear  to 
consist  of  rather  irregular,  low  houses,  built  chiefly  of  long  thin 
boards,  called  '  clap-boards,'  with  shingle  roofs.  I  am  told  these 
houses  are  painted  bright  colours,  but  it  was  too  dark  to  see  this. 
Wo  stumbled  along  the  dimly  lighted  streets,  and  at  last  took  our 
way  up  a  steep  one,  which  led  to  the  Battery  Hill.  From  thence 
we  had  a  fine  moonlight  view  of  the  town  and  bay.  Wo  also  saw 
the  supports  of  the  electric  telegraph,  and  passed  by-two  chapels, 
and  some  trees  of  a  kind  there  was  not  sufficient  light  to  recognize, 
but  my  companions  thought  they  were  the  Button  wood  {Plata- 


I 

i 


!  I 


U 


BOSTON. 


nus).  There  was  music  iu  some  of  the  houses — univorsalljf 
Scotch  airs — 'Johnny  Cope,'  'Annie  Laurie,'  &o.,  &o.  As  a 
Scotchwoman,'  I  fult  sure  of  a  welcome,  if  I  had  wished  to  intrude 
upon  the  performers.  Wo  returned  to  the  Canada  before  sho 
tired  her  guns  to  announce  our  approaching  departure.  The  echo 
of  these  guns  was  the  loudest  and  finest  I  over  hoard ,  reverber- 
ating like  thunderclaps  all  down  the  coast.  We  steamed  forth 
about  eleven  o'clock,  Jupiter  in  tlio  east,  and  the  whole  sky  bright 
with  the  brightest  starts,  and  meteors  oould  be  seen  fre()uently 
striking  across  the  heavens.  About  twelve  we  were  asleep  in  our 
berths,  and  I  slept  late ;  but  it  is  a  beautiful  morning,  so  that  wo 
can  walk  the  deck  and  admire  the  still  sea  and  the  coming  shore. 
Our  last  dinner  was  all  conviviality  and  merriment,  everybody 
complimented  everybody,  and  particularly  the  captain ;  and  most 
of  us  agree  it  will  be  useless  to  go  to  bed  again,  certainly  uot  to 
sleep,  so  impatient  are  we  lor  the  first  sight  of  Boston,  which 
is  expected  to  be  visible  at  sunrise. 

August  Jl. — I  think  the  Bay  of  Boston  must  be  as  wide  as 
that  extending  from  tlie  island  of  Portland  to  the  Start,  in 
England.  Neariug  the  harbor,  I  expected  to  see  trees,  but  the 
low  downs  and  numerous  islands  which  surround  it,  though  green, 
are  bare  of  anything  but  houses.  It  is  the  finest  harbour  I 
have  yet  seen,  and  I  should  imagine  might  be  made  as  impreg- 
nable as  Cronstadt,  if  as  many  batteries  were  planted  upon  its 
numerous  islands — one  only,  defends  the  entrance.  I  now  feel 
as  if  everything  round  mo  belonged  to  some  of  the  Leicester- 
square  life-like  Panoramas ;  my  voyage  seems  a  dream,  and  facts 
unreal.  Once  in  the  harbour,  if  blinded  and  turned  twice  round, 
it  would  bo  difiieult  to  Siiy  at  which  point  we  became  embayed, 
and  surrounded  by  the  islands  and  capes — vessels  sailing  about, 
or  at  anchor,  in  every  direction.  Owing  to  our  quick  voyage, 
the  Niagara  (sister  of  Canada),  which  leaves  at  twelve  to-day, 
for  Liverpool,  had  not  vacated  her  berth ;  therefore  our  captain 
was  obliged  to  lay-to,  and  await  her  departure.  We  arrived 
about  nine  o'clock,  and  the  Custom-house  ai)peared  to  ignore  our 
preaenoe  for  some  time  j  iu  fact,  I  suppose  they  would  rather  not 


THE  rmST   LUXURY. 


U 


have  us  upon  their  hands  till  they  got  rid  of  the  other  two  Cu' 
nard  steamerH,  th()  Niagara  and  the  Alps;  and  it  was  an  hour  or 
two  beforu  a  Tug  came  to  take  luggage  and  passengers  ashore. 
This  was  not  objectionable  to  me,  because  it  gave  me  time  enougH 

to  look  about;  but  it  was  trying  to  Mrs.  F ,   who   had 

brothers  and  sisters  waiting  to  receive  her,  after  five  years'  absence. 
The  first  thing  which  charmed  me  on  landing  was  the  cleanliness 
of  the  wharves,  and  the  complete  absence  of  sea  or  harbour 
odours.  No  sensation  reminded  one  of  departed  miseries;  in  this 
Boston  has  a  great  advantage  over  Dover  and  Folkestone,  where 
one  is  made  sensible  (in  some  degree  at  all  times,  and  specially  at 
low  tide)  of  a  commingling  of  mud,  gas,  and  sewers,  which  is  cer- 
tainly  not  consoling  for  the  past,  or  promising  for  the  future. 
The  Custom-house  officers  were  civil  and  obliging,  bothering  us 
as  little  as  possible ;  but  the  large  number  of  passengers  coming 
and  going,  and  an  avalanche  of  boxes  and  packages,  made  it  im- 
possible,  even  for  Americans,  to  '  go  ahead ; '  and  so  we  had  to 
wait  for  three  mortal  hours  in  the  chairs  they  set  for  us,  under  a 
tolerably  cool  shed. 

Mrs.  F 's  brother,  Mr.  C ,  then  procured  a  carriage, 

iiiid  cart  for  our  baggage,  and  I  was  taken  to  the  Tremout  Hotel, 
in  their  way  to  his  house  in  Chestnut  Street.  I  found  a  pleasant 
drawing-room  for  the  occupation  of  ladies,  and  bedrooms  for  self 
and  maid,  and  a  kind  fellow-passenger  to  take  charge  of  me  at  the 
table-d'hdte.  I  found  excellent  cucumbers,  boiled  maize,  un- 
dressed tomatoes,  baked  fish,  and  lobsters — pleasant  cool  diet  to 
a  person  suddenly  plunged  into  a  heat  beyond  our  most  extreme 
dog-days.  The  first  luxury  I  welcomed  with  gratitude  was  the 
abundance  of  ice — a  jug  of  ice  water  placed  even  in  my  bedroom 
— on  the  table  of  the  ladies'  saloon,  and  everywhere  at  meals. 

After  dinner,  Mr.  D was  so  obliging  as  to  procure  tickets  for 

a  garden,  five  or  six  miles  off,  belonging  to  Mr.  Cushing,  and  also 
for  Auburn  Cemetery.  Mr.  Cushing's  flower  garden  and  houses 
are  considered  the  finest  in  New  England ;  but  they  were  not 
bej'ond  a  third-rate  or  fifth-rate  in  our  old  country.  The  fruit- 
houses  seemed  in  good  order — the  flower-houses  not  more  than 


16 


B08T0K. 


tolerable ;  I  saw  no  plants  that  were  not  old  acquaintances  of 
mine  in  most  of  our  gardens,  with  the  exception  of  one,  a  creeping 
annual  or  biennial,  which  had  been  allowed  to  ramble  over  the 
flower-beds ;  the  gardener  (a  young  Irishman)  could  not  tell  the 
name  of  it.  Its  foliage  and  buds  looked  like  a  soft  woolly  con< 
volvulus,  the  flowers  double,  each  separate  one,  when  plucked,  in 
size  and  form  like  a  flaccid  pink  Soapwort.  The  gardener  told 
me  of  two  pretty  wild  plants  which  had  particularly  struck  him 
in  the  neighbourhood ;  from  his  description  one  might  be  a  Sara- 
cenia,  the  other  some  species  of  Ornithogalon.  I  asked  Captain 
Stone's  hospitality  for  my  precious  Ward's  case  of  plants  on 
board  the  Canada  till  I  can  make  the  acquaintance  of  Dr.  Gray, 
to  whom  I  wish  to  consign  them.  They  have  flourished  since 
their  emigration,  as  all  plants  in  hermetically  scaled  cases  do 
flourish. 

My  American  friend,  after  our  visit  to  the  garden,  conveyed 
me  to  Mount  Auburn  Cemetery,  that  last  resting-place  for 
humanity,  an  example  of  what  I  hope,  some  day,  to  see  copied  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  London.  In  feeling  and  taste  it  is  really 
perfect.  No  crowding  up  in  disgusting  heaps  like  our  own  church- 
yards. Shade,  elegance,  and  that  stillness  so  soothing  to  the  grief, 
the  recollections,  and  the  hearts  of  surviving  friends — a  place 
interesting  to  strangers,  and  not  disagreeable  even  to  the  young 
and  gay.  The  burying-ground  of  each  family  is  as  nearly  as 
possible  alike  in  size,  all  fenced  off  by  strong  but  neat  and  pretty 
iron  railings,  with  small  gates ;  over  the  front  of  every  entrance, 
simple  surnames  and  Christian  names  belonging  to  first  purcha- 
sers, with  dates,  all  in  iror ;  each  family  is  permitted  to  place 
monuments  and  tombs  within  its  own  enclosure.  I  do  not  know 
if  there  is  any  check  which  may  stop  the  exercise  of  atrociously 
bad  taste ;  but  by  some  means  or  other  this  must  be  effected,  for  all 
the  tombs  are  simple  and  inoffensive,  and  some  of  the  monuments 
beautiful.  I  was  surprised  to  see  that  a  few  were  protected  by 
glass,  particularly  one  pretty  recumbent  statue  of  a  child.  Nearly 
all  the  erections  are  pure  white  marble ;  generally  low  obelisks 
Or  slabs.    I  saw  not  one  objectionable  in  feeling  or  in  taste,  and 


MOUNT    AUBtJRN    CEMETERY. 


17 


tances  of 
i  creeping 
3  over  the 
>t  tell  the 
ooUy  con- 
lucked,  in 
lener  told 
(truck  him 
be  a  Sara- 
id  Captain 
plants  on 
Dr.  Gray, 
shed  since 
i  cases  do 

i,  coDveyed 
y-place  for 
e  copied  in 
it  is  really 
fwn  church- 
|o  the  grief, 
,s — a  place 
the  young 
nearly  as 
and  pretty 
entrance, 
st  purcha- 
to  place 
not  know 
trociously 
ited,  for  all 
lonuments 
[otected  by 
Nearly 
obelisks 
taste,  and 


no  pompous  fulsome  epitaphs.  ^  Implora  Pace''  might  have  been 
inscribed  over  the  entrance  of  this  cemetery,  without  causing 
any  1  evulsion  of  sentiment  within  its  precincts;  in  this  matter, 
certainly,  the  mother  land  may  well  take  some  hints  from  her 
child's  example.  As  we  drove  away  a  man  oflFered  a  bunch  of 
water-lilies  for  sale  (or  rather  buds  which  are  to  open  to-morrow). 
My  companion  gave  me  three.  He  tells  me  they  have  long- 
shaped,  sweet  white  blossoms ;  and  the  stems  are  very  long.  I 
saw  no  leaves ;  but  it  is  certainly  not  our  Thames  white  water- 
lily  ;  this  one  is  Nymphaea  odorata.  Last  night  the  closed  buds 
looked  too  firmly  shut  for  me  to  see  them  soon  open,  but  even 
before  sunshine  has  touched  them,  at  eight  o'clock  this  morning, 
they  are  wide  awake.  I  see  no  diflference  between  them  and  ours, 
except  that  the  petals  are  longer  and  more  pointed,  but  they  have 
a  much  more  pleasant  scent.  Our  drive  was  through  a  thickly- 
inhabited  suburb,  going  by  Brookline  and  retumi^ig  by  Cambridge 
and  Harvard  College ;  one  country  house  and  villa  succeeding 
another.  The  architecture  and  elevations,  and  green  external 
blinds,  make  them  much  resemble  houses  around  Frankfort; 
but  apparently  they  have  arisen  so  fast,  that  there  has  not  been 
time  enough  to  ornament  the  gardens  with  flowers;  a  rather 
rough  lawn,  with  a  few  shrubs,  chiefly  Arbor  vitse  and  Pinus, 
perhaps  a  tree  Hibiscus  here  and  there,  was  most  commonly  all. 
The  general  aspect  of  Boston,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  of  the 
principal  houses,  say,  *  We  have  been  in  such  a  hurry,  we  must 
finish  by-and-by.'  But  I  don't  dislike  the  appearance  of  the 
unhewn  grey  stone,  a  granite  of  which  some  of  them  are  built. 
When  of  brick,  in  this  neighbourhood,  the  colour  is  more  pink  and 
less  glaring  than  ours.     Soon  after  my  return  to  the  hotel,  Miss 

C came  and  brought  a  sister,  sister-in-law,  and  a  nephew  to 

see  me ;  and  afterwards  Mr.  D introduced  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mills 

(the  latter  a  daughter  of  a  benevolent  agriculturist,  Mr.  Colman, 
who  died  in  England) ;  on  her  return  home,  she  kindly  sent  me  a 
beautiful  nosegay,  and  this  morning  Mr.  D- ,  before  his  de- 
parture for  New  York,  left  snc  two  more  letters  of  introduction 
for  Nahant,  where  I  think  of  going  this  afternoon,  as  I  find  Mr. 


18 


BOSTON. 


and  Mrs.  Longfellow  are  there,  and  I  much  wish  to  see  them , 
besides  which,  this  town  is  like  a  bakery,  it  is  so  hot.     I  shall 

probably  visit  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B ,  at  Newport,  in  a  day  or  two. 

The  cholera  is  said  to  be  raging  at  Montreal  and  Quebec,  so  I 
shall  not  hurry  myself  to  get  there ;  and  I  shall  wish  rather  to 
linger  among  the  valleys  and  hills  of  the  Connecticut  Eivcr, 
after  leaving  Newport :  then  I  am  to  visit  the  White  Mountains ; 
and  my  present  idea  is  to  reach  Washington  by  the  opening  of 
Congress  in  December,  and  afterwards  travel  southward  to  Vir- 
ginia, Louisiana,  Florida,  and  perhaps  Cuba.  If  I  accomplish 
this  tour  successfully,  I  imagine  it  would  be  pleasant  to  follow  the 
spring  of  1855,  northwards;  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  botanical 
researches,  and  then  to  return  to  Boston  in  June  or  July,  when  I 
may  spend  my  remaining  three  months  either  in  this  town  or  its 
neighbourhood.  Of  course,  my  plan  may  be  modified  or  changed, 
but  it  offers  a  pj^ospect  of  much  interest  and  amusement.  Sir 
Charles  Grey,  the  late  governor  of  Jamaica,  who  joined  our  ship's 
company  at  Halifax,  and  is  now  in  this  house,  complains  of  the 
frigidity  of  winter,  even  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  States,  and 
strongly  recommends  me  to  take  shelter  in  Florida,  where  he  says 
I  shall  find  warmth  and  amusement  for  a  few  weeks ;  but  prob- 
ably, after  so  many  years  passed  in  tropical  climes,  his  constitu- 
tion is  more  sensitive  to  cold  than  mine. 

Boston,  August  4. — A  delightful  day  yesterday.  Too  tired 
to  write  my  letter,  and  get  to  breakfast,  much  before  ten  o'clock. 
I  was  not  dressed  when  Mr.  Mills  sent  up  his  card.     He  said  he 

would  call  later ;  and  while  I  breakfasted,  Mrs.  F 's  brother, 

Mr.  C.  C ,  came  to  me,  both  oflfering  services ;  then  came  Mr. 

F ,  Miss  C ,  and  F .  I  received  a  very  kind  fare- 
well note  from  a  friend  (who  left  Boston  for  New  York  at  six 
o'clock),  with  some  Istters  and  notes  of  introduction.  My  first 
immediate  object  being  Dr.  Gray  and  the  Botanical  Garden  at 
Cambridge,  Mr.  Dwight  (a  former  acquaintance  in  London),  and 

Mr.  R.  C.  C accompanied  me  there.     My  expectations  were 

not  at  all  disappointed  :  I  met  with  a  hearty  welcome,  and  all  the 
information,  and  enthusiasm  for  plants,  I  desired  to  find.    With 


^^/ 


THE  ATHENJEVH. 


tt 


the  intention  of  returning  to  dinner  here  at  two  o'clock,  I  found 
it  more  than  half-past  before  I  thought  of  leaving  the  Garden, 
and  I  then  made  an  appointment  to  meet  my  Ward's  case  of 
plants  at  Dr.  Gray's  house  by  nine  o'clock  this  morning.  Upon 
looking  over  the  lists,  nearly  all  the  plants  I  have  brought  are  new 
to  him ;  Weigelia  rosea  and  Deutzia  scabra  he  has,  so  they  will 

belong  to  Mrs.  F .    I  learnt  much  botanically,  and  have 

promises  of  aid ;  the  trees  in  this  Garden  interested  me  deeply 
— so  many  are  quite  new  to  me.  One  or  two  of  them  I  am  sure 
would  do  at  Abbotsbury,  particularly  the  beautiful  Virgilia  lutea. 
I  saw  such  pretty  mallows, — in  short,  I  felt  as  if  transported  to 
the  Fairyland  of  Flowers.  Newport  this  week  is  out  of  the 
question,  for  Dr.  Gray  has  proposed  botanizing  over  part  of  this 
country  with  me ;  so  we  are  going  to  have  a  walk  to-morrow,  and 
we  are  to  go  to  Nahant,  and  perhaps  I  shall  stay  there  a  few  days. 
I  am  told  I  shall  find  good  sketching,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Long- 
fellow and  Professor  Agassiz  are  there.    We  returned  to  the 

Tremont  Hotel,  and  afterwards  Mr.  D took  me  to  call  at 

Mr.  Elliot's,  Mr.  Ticknor's  and  Mr.  Abbott  Lawrence's,  and  then 
showed  me  the  Athemeum  (the  finest  architectural  building  in 
Boston),  where  there  are  public  reading-rooms,  a  good  library  and 
some  tolerable  pictures,  particularly  two  unfinished  heads  of 
Washington  and  his  wife,  by  Stewart.  I  admire  Alston's  por- 
traits, but  not  much  his  landscapes ;  perhaps  those  I  have  seen 
were  not  his  best.  There  is  a  statue  of  Washington  in  the  en- 
trance which  looks  like  a  French  caricature,  the  head  thrown 
back  in  a  forced  ungraceful  way ;  but  there  is  one  on  the  opposite 
side,  of  a  well-looking  man — celebrated  here  but  unknown  to  me, 
so  I  have  forgotten  his  name, — an  evidently  truthful  resem- 
blance; it  sits  in  an  easy  contemplative  attitude,  with  an  expres- 
sion of  countenance  so  very  like  the  venerable  Mrs.  Fletcher,  of 
Grasmere,  that  I  could  fancy  him  her  father.  Our  dinner-hour 
was  long  past  at  the  Tremont  Hotel,  but  I  got  something  from  a 
long  printed  bill  of  fare,  which  is  struck  off  each  day,  and  some 
refreshing  lemonade.  I  remember  reading  somewhere,  that  Eng- 
lish people,  who  are  used  to  good  servants,  must  make  up  their 


20 


BOCTOM. 


minds  to  be  indifferently  waited  on  in  America,  but  at  present 
here  I  should  rather  complain  of  being  too  much  attended  to. 
The  waiters  seem  innumerable,  and  at  least  two  are  constantly  on 
the  look-out  to  find  out  the  requirements  of  a  guest.  I  men- 
tioned three  times  this  morning  that,  having  been  supplied  with 
tea  and  rolls,  and  broiled  salmon  and  broiled  mackerel,  I  required 
nothing  more,  but  still  an  attendant  was  always  at  my  elbow  in 
two  minutes  after  I  had  civilly  dismissed  him ;  and  as  board,  and 
I  believe  all  payments,  must  be  included  in  the  five  dollars  a  day 
for  self  and  maid,  their  attentions  are  not  individual  affairs.     G. 

F came  at  seven  o'clock  to  conduct  me  to  his  aunt's  family 

tea.  I  found  his  mother  in  the  midst  of  brothers,  sisters,  neph- 
ews and  nieces,  in  a  room  with  a  verandah,  vine-embowered,  and 
the  bunches  of  grapes  hanging  thickly  above  it, — a  cheerful, 
pleasant  party  of  young  and  old,  we  remained  together  till  past 

eleven  o'clock,  when  my  host,  Mr.  E.   C ,  and  his  sisters 

walked  back  with  me,  about  half  a  mile,  to  my  hotel.  The  air 
was  pleasantly  warm  and  balmy ;  only  one  individual  crossed  our 
path,  but  I  heard  the  persevering  cricket  grating  away  from  many 
an  Althsea  frutex,  which  forms  the  principal  ornament  of  the  tiny 
gardens  before  most  of  the  houses. 

Saturday^  August  4. — Here  am  I — I  don't  know  where ! 
for  I  am  writing  the  first  thing  in  the  morning,  and  such  was  my 
interest  and  pre-occupation  and  delight  at  the  wholly  unexpected 
beauty  of  this  place  last  night,  that  I  did  not  ask  its  name.  Im- 
agine scenery  more  like  Mount  Edgecumbe  than  anything  else  I 
ever  saw  or  heard  of  in  Great  Britain ;  only  with  few  ships  on 
the  sea.  Pines  and  cypresses,  lind  shrubs  of  the  (to  me)  rarest 
description,  growing  down  to  the  very  margin  of  the  picturesque 
jagged  shore,  with  grey  and  red  porphyry  rocks  starting  up  on  all 

sides,  even  from  the  very,  door  of  Mr.  L 's  charming  cottage, 

— Cherokee-roses  and  honeysuckles  on  the  verandah;  various 
plants  and  shrubs,  and  even  blackberries  new  to  me.  one  with  a 
delicious  fruit,  something  between  blackberry,  mulberry  and 
raspberry  in  flavor  {Ruhus  viUosus,  high  blackberry),  rambling 
over  tho  gfej  boulders,  and  in  front  a  sea  studded  by  islanda 


PLBA8ANT  LOCATION. 


« 


In  the  evening  there  was  a  glowing  sunset  on  the  land  side,  Jupi* 
ter,  amidst  the  eastern  constellations,  shining  over  the  bright 
calm  sea ;  imagine  also  the  air  just  freshened  by  a  shower,  and 
you  may  form  some  idea  of  the  enjoyments  I  had  in  a  moonlight 
walk  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray  last  night.  But  I  must  try  and 
give  some  rational  account  of  how  and  why  I  find  myself  some- 
where near  Beverley,  in  the  United  States,  instead  of  at  Nahant. 
This  place  is  called  Glencove,  and  the  one  adjoining,  where  Mr. 

L 's  son  lives,  is  Burnside.     I  find  it  difficult  to  write,  and 

even  to  dress,  the  view  from  my  bed-room  window  is  so  attrac- 
tive. The  pleasure  ground  below,  upon  a  rough  hill,  which  de- 
scends rapidly  to  the  sea,  is  sprinkled  over  by  apparently  upheaved 
granitic  boulders,  interspersed  with  Pinus  rigida,  Junipers,  a 
large  shrubby  white-leafed  honeysuckle,  fine  fruiting  rubuses, 
roses,  and  various  kinds  of  wild  flowers  new  to  me ;  the  shore, 
with  occasional  dark  masses  of  volcanic  strata  bursting  through 
the  rocks ;  a  bay  dotted  by  islands,  some  with  buildings  on  them, 
and  one  having  a  tall  lighthouse ;  ships  and  little  boats  sailing 
about  in  all  directions ;  a  long  promontory  stretching  to  the  south 
between  this  place  and  Nahant;  the  weather  warm  enough  to 
have  windows  wide  open  all  night,  and  yet  not  the  least  oppressive ; 
with  all  this  to  distract,  you  may  wonder  that  I  do  get  dressed 
soon  after  seven — the  breakfast  hour  of  my  hospitable  enter- 
tainers. 

I  must  go  back  to  the  time  when  E, and  I  left  Boston 

yesterday  morning.  We  drove  to  Dr.  Gray's  soon  after  nine 
o'clock,  my  purpose  being  to  open  the  Ward's  case  of  plants 
with  him,  and  then  to  proceed  to  the  hotel  at  Nahant  to  stay  a 
day  or  two.  I  found  Mrs.  Gray,  who  was  absent  yesterday,  had 
kindly  come  home  to  meet  me.  She  and  her  husband,  whose 
acquaintance  was  my  first  wish  in  America,  and  whose  scientific 
knowledge  can  only  ba  exceeded  by  his  kindness,  had  prepared 
a  pleasant  surprise  for  me  by  arranging  with  her  father  and 
Mrs.  L for  my  reception  here.  They  proposed  my  accompa- 
nying them,  after  he  had  facilitated  my  trip  to  Nahant,  to  visit 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Longfellow,  and  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  Mr. 


n 


m^  BOITOR. 

D 'b  brother  and  siater-in-law,  to  whom  he  hacT  given  me  a 

letter  of  iu' reduction.  He  drove  back  to  Boston,  and  I  made 
my  first  American  raili^«y  journey  for  a  few  miles  only,  as  far  as 
Lynu.  I  found  the  long  gallery  carriages  comfortable  and  airy, 
<lhe  communication  from  one  part  of  the  train  to  the  other  com- 
plete and  easy,  and  although  passing  across  the  streets  and  roads 
without  tunnels  or  barriers  is  rather  alarming,  yet,  as  the  engines 
have  a  large  bell,  and  great  boards  are  placed  all  across  wi^^ 
notices  to  look  out,  and  not  cross  while  the  bell  is  heard,  I  snp- 
pose  that  individual  caution  may  avoid  a  smash ;  but  sad  acci- 
dents do  sometimes  happen.  Two  young  ladies  driving  in  an 
open  carriage  near  this  place,  last  year,  being  interested  in  their 
own  conversation,  were  thrown  off  their  guard,  when  a  train  came 
upon  them.  One  was  killed  on  the  spot,  and  the  other  never 
recovered  the  shock. 

I  found  a  gigantic  ugly  hotel  at  Nahant  marking  the  beauty 
of  its  situation :  it  is  a  great  boarding-house  brimming  over  with 

company.     I  was  receive  jI  by  Mrs.  C.  D ,  who  engaged  Dr. 

Gray  and  me  to  dine  with  her  at  the  public  table,  at  four 
o'clock,  and  directed  us  to  Mr.  Longfellow's  residence.  We 
had  passed  the  cottage,  about  a  mile  off,  in  our  drive  from  Lynn ; 
so  we  got  into  the  carriage  which  brought  us,  and,  in  pouring 
rain,  retraced  our  way.  We  were  cordially  received  by  Mr. 
Longfellow,  though  Mrs.  Longfellow  had  not  received  a  prepara- 
tory note,  which  had  been  forwarded,  immediately  upon  our  land- 
ing at  Boston,  to  their  house  at  Cambridge.  After  a  short  stay, 
he  was  so  kind  as  to  walk  with  me;  and  in  a  iit  -  /  y;;m  he  hcVJ! 
an  umbrella  over  my  book,  while  I  made  r  ■  a  ■■'.  the  rocks 
and  bay.  I  thought  several  times,  with  alarm,  how  I  should 
answer  to  the  world  if  I  were  the  cause  of  Mr.  Longfellow 
catching  his  death  1  particularly  as  he  would  go  on  in  wet  clothes 
.  dine  with  us  at  the  hotel ;  but  he  assured  me  a  brother  was 
t»ie.  •?i'  0  wf  :ld  let  him  take  measures  of  prevention,  and  I  was 
too  hii  :p;'  ■  0  make  a  sketch  honoured  by  such  company  and  con- 
1  «7'sa.6i .  n.  So  it  Wiis  done  in  spite  of  rain  as  heavy  as  one  of 
our  heaviest  thunder-showers  in  England,  and  I  did  not  lament 


'  I 


AN  AGREEABLE   nTTRODUCTION. 


given  me  ft 
md  I  made 
ly,  as  far  as 
le  and  airy, 
other  com- 
3  and  roads 
the  engines 
across  wi*h 
sard,  I  Bnp- 
Lt  sad  acci- 
iving  in  an 
ed  in  their 
train  came 
)ther  never 

the  beauty 
g  over  with 
Dgaged  Dr. 
le,  at  four 
once.     We 
rom  Lynn ; 
in  pouring 
3d  by  Mr. 
prepara- 
our  land- 
short  stay, 
he  hc^' 
the  rocks 
I  should 
longfellow 
et  clothes 
other  was 
md  I  was 
and  con- 
is  one  of 
t  lament 


that  my  thin  muslin  dress  was  fairly  soakf'd.     But  on  reaching 

the  hotel,  Mrs.  D 's  Welsh  nurse  (a  G-lamorganshire  woman 

from  near  Cowbridge,  who  knew  about  all  my  friends  there,  and 
in  consequence  gave  me  sea  weeds  she  had  preserved)  afforded 
ne  the  means  of  becoming  tolerably  dry  before  dinner.      This  is 
the  largest  hotel  I  ever  saw.     When  quite  finished  it  will  accom- 
modate five  hundred  guests.     It  belongs  to  the  same  proprietor 
as  Tremont  House  in  Boston.     I  did  not  inquire  the  dimensions 
of  the  dinner-saloon,  but  I  imagine  that  three  of  the  size  of  the 
Kursaal  dining-room  at  Homburg  might  be  contained  in  it.     I 
sat  between  Mrs.  C.  D and  a  gentleman  to  whom  she  intro- 
duced me :  Mr.  Longfellow  joined  us  after  dinner.      I  was  happy 
to  see  his  coat  was  changed,  a  fact  which,  in  some  measure,  re- 
lieved my  mind  of  the  fear  that  I  might  be  answerable  for  his 
death.     If  Dr.  Gray  had  not  so  obligingly  prepared  ti  e  way  for 
my  escape  to  a  residence  more  accordant  with  my  tastes  and  pur- 
suits, I  doubt  whether  even  the  vicinity  of  friends  could  have 
reconciled  me  to  a  stay  of  more  than  one  night  at  Nahant,  though 

Mr.  and  Mr^  P..  W (he  an  old  acquaintance  in  England) 

sent  me  a  kind  offer  of  the  use  of  their  sitting-room  at  d  car- 
riage ;  but  a  few  hours  was  enough  just  to  glimpse  at  the  hu- 
mours of  the  place,  where  I  suppose  a  large  number  of  the  busy 
and  the  industrious  come  to  enjoy  relaxation  and  idleness.  I 
ought  to  add  that  I  was  introduced  to  Chowder,  a  most  pi-aise- 
worthy  preparation,  enabling  you  to  eat  soup  and  fish  at  one 
time. 

The  rain  had  now  subsided  into  a  thick  fog.  Dr.  Gray  an  i  I 
got  into  the  Carry-all  I  had  kept  waiting  to  take  us  back  to  the 
railway  station ;  and  in  half  an  hour  we  arrived  at  a  picturesque 
valley  surrounded  by  rich  woods  and  tumbled-about  sienitic  rocks. 

Here  Mrs.  L. 's  carriage  (driven  by  a  man  who  had  lived  wi  h 

the  late  Lord  Camden)  met  us,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  reached 
Gle»<cove.  Its  rare  beauty  was  an  unexpected  surprise,  for  Dr. 
Gray  had  only  promised  me  a  quiet  botanizing  nook.  His  father 
and  mother-in-law,  with  Mrs.  Gray,  received  me  with  great  kind- 
nesa     Mr.  L.        is  in  the  legal  profession.    A  few  years  ago, 


B08T0K. 


when  seeking  repose  and  rest  from  over  work,  he  accidentally 
stumbled  upon  this  place,  purchased  it  from  the  farmer  to  whom 
it  belonged,  and  built  his  comfortable  cottage,  and  one  adjoining 
it  for  his  eldest  son,  who  is  at  present  travelling  in  Europe  with 
an  invalid  brother,  having  left  a  wife  and  three  nice  children  at 
home.  Mrs.  Gray  is  staying  with  her,  as  well  as  a  lady,  who  pro- 
mises to  induce  her  husband,  a  sculptor  and  an  artist,  in  Boston, 
to  come  here.     Besides  a  little  boy  and  girl  in  this  house,  Mr. 

L has  a  large  family  of  grand-children,  belonging  to  another 

married  daughter,  near  at  hand.     Another  of  my  acquaintances  at 

home,  Mr.  F D ,  lives  within  a  short  walk.     After  my 

arrival  here,  the  weather  was  so  obliging  as  to  clear  up,  and  I 
had  a  delightful  scramble  to  the  Eagle  rock,  where  I  yesterday 
made  a  sketch,  for  I  am  now  filling  up  my  letter  on  the  7th.  Sat- 
urday, was  a  day  of  enjoyment.  We  breakfasted  soon  after  seven 
o'clock.     Perfect  weather ;  not  too  hot ;  so  that  after  wandering 

about  the  grounds,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray,  and  Mrs.  L ,  took  me 

a  drive  to  see  two  lakes  (or  ponds  as  they  call  them  here).  Essex 
Pond  is  an  almost  exact  counterpart  of  the  LaKC  at  LoQg-leat,  only 
surrounded  by  more  extensive  forests,  and  with  others  larger,  in  its 
neighbourhood.  I  sketched  it,  and  afterwards  Hamilton  Lake 
from  a  distance,  for  we  spent  so  much  time  in  botanical  researches, 
that  we  could  not  attempt  to  go  farther.  I  gathered  about  forty 
plants  quite  new  to  me,  and  was  particularly  pleased  to  find  the 
Pontederia  cordata,  which  we  prize  so  much  in  the  fountain  at  Ab- 
botsbury,  and  the  Rhexia  virginica  growing  at  the  edge  of  the 
water,  with  quantities  of  the  pretty  little  rare  English  plant  Erie- 
caulon  septangulare ; — it  is  such  a  pleasure  and  advantage  to  have 
the  company  of  a  botanist  like  Dr.  Gray  to  give  me  at  once  the 
Dames  of  plants  new  to  me,  instead  of  spending  perhaps  hours  in 
seeking  them  out.  Among  the  most  beautiful  of  these  new  ac- 
quaintances was  Spirea  tomentosa,  a  pink  shrub,  Osmunda  speo- 
tabilis,  and  Leucocarpus  conyzoides,  and  I  was  much  pleased  with 
a  sweet  Gale,  larger  and  handsomer  than  ours,  and  quite  as  odo- 
riferous. But  I  niust  add  a  list  of  plants  to  this  letter,  for  those 
who  care  about  them — though  certain  friends  of  mine  will  only  be 


BOTANICAL   R.ESEAECHES. 


25 


accidentally 

er  to  whom 

5  adjoining 

urope  with 

children  at 

y,  who  pro- 

in  Boston, 

house,  Mr. 

to  another 

lintances  at 

After  my 

r  up,  and  I 

'.  yesterday 

3  7th.   Sat- 

after  seven 

wandering 

— ,  took  me 

re).   Essex 

g-leat,  only 

irger,  in  its 

Iton  Lake 

researches, 

bout  forty 

0  find  the 

ain  at  Ab- 

ge  of  tho 

lant  Erio- 

[ge  to  have 

once  the 

hours  in 

new  ac- 

Inda  speC' 

lased  with 

as  odo- 

Ifor  those 

ll  only  be 


bored  by  their  long  names.  We  got  back  just  in  time  to  go  and 
dine  at  Burnside  with  Mrs.  W.  L. .  The  view  from  her  ve- 
randah and  windows,  looking  accross  the  bay  towards  Marblehead 

and  Salem,  and  over  Mr.  L. 's  garden,  with  a  rocky  cove  below 

and  the  islands  scattered  about,  was  lovely  beyond  description. 
I  have  made  a  sketch  which  does  not  do  it  justice.  Yesterday  we 
went  to  church,  about  three  miles'  distance.  The  service  was  well 
conducted;  the  congregation  large;  no  signs  of  poverty;  the 
people  looking  well-to-do,  and  even  rich  in  appearance.  The  edi- 
fice very  plain :  all  grey  inside ;  behind  the  reading-desk  and  pulpit 
a  large  globe,  painted  in  fresco,  with  clouds  around,  appearing  as  if 
being  dispersed  by  the  sun  rising  behind — emblematic  of  course, 
and  pleasingly  executed  :  the  roof  went  up  into  a  large  kind  of 
open  tower,  finished  at  the  top  by  a  simple  large  white  flower ; 
blinds  upon  each  window  outside ;  a  good  organ ;  the  singing  well 
conducted ;  the  hymns  pretty.  The  minister  preached,  not  extem- 
porarily,  from  the  text, '  We  must  all  appear  before  the  judgment- 
seat  of  Christ.' 

After  dinner.  Dr.  Gray  and  Mrs.  L took  me  to  walk  in  a 

wild  wood,  chiefly  of  hemlock  spruce  and  Weymouth  pines ;  both 
are  more  beautiful  hero  than  they  are  in  England  ;  and  the  bold 
massy  sienitic  rocks,  many  of  them  covered  by  various- coloured 
lichens,  among  which  were  Tripe  de  Roche  and  Umbellicaria  vellea, 
with  its  graceful  black  wreaths;  the  ground  was  tinted  by  Reindeer 
moss,  with  its  soft  bluish  grey ;  which  with  the  bright  scarlet  ber- 
ries of  Comus  Canadensis,  dark-leaved  Pyrolas,  Gaultherias,  Linnss 
borealis,  twining  in  amongst  them  with  white  pipes  of  Monotropa 
uniflora  peeping  up  from  under  rare  ferns,  and  elegant  Vaccineas, 
formed  a  foreground  which,  for  softness  and  variety  of  colouring, 
exceeded  aught  I  ever  saw  even  in  Scotland.     In  the  forest  we  met 

a  son-in-law  of  Mr.  L 's,  Mr.  J ,  botanizing  with  throe  boys, 

the  youngest  not  more  than  seven,  yet  all  appeared  to  take  an 
eager  and  intelligent  interest  in  the  pursuit,  and  each  was  loaded 
with  a  splendid  bouquet,  from  which  they  showed  me  a  prettj 
new  A3ciepias  {incarnata).     Having  now  three  strong  arms  to 

carry  us  through  difficulties,  Mrs.  L and  I  got  down  a  steep 

2 


m      0 


26 


BOSTON. 


descent  in  the  wood,  and  in  a  little  opening  below,  we  gathered 
Onoclea  sensibilis,  Osmunda  Bpectabilis,  and  Veronica  scutellata. 

I  must  finish  this  abruptly,  as  Mr.  L tells  us  our  letters  must 

go  now,  to  be  ready  for  to-morrow's  post  to  England.     Mrs. 

B 's  communication  of  August  3d,  that  she  would  send  to 

meet  me  on  Saturday  last,  has  only  just  arrived.  I  now  propose 
to  go  to  her  at  Newport  on  Thursday.  Lord  Elgin  also  writes 
that  the  accounts  of  the  prevalence  of  cholera  are  exaggerated, 
and  proposes  to  receive  me  at  Spencer  Wood,  near  Quebec.  I 
think  of  going  from  Newport,  through  the  Valley  of  the  Oon* 
neoticut,  to  the  White  Mountains,  and  thence  by  Lake  Champlain 
to  Montreal ;  but  I  shall  probably  send  off  another  letter  from 
Newport. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M  M 

The  sketching  here  is  very  interestini;. 

Aitgust  9. 


m 


LETTER  in. 


NEIGHBOURHOOD     OF     WENHAM     LAKE. 


Glbkoote,  AuguttlO. 
My  Dear  Friends, — 

I  am  rather  tormented  by  what  are  here  called  mosquitoes, 
but  they  are  not  a  bit  worse  than  our  gnats  and  midges  and  harvest- 
bugs  ;  indeed,  I  doubt  whether  I  could  have  frequented  woods 
and  bogs  in  England  for  as  long  together  as  the  time  I  have 
passed  these  last  few  days  in  the  forest,  and  by  the  sea  and  lakes 
here,  without  being  more  devoured ;  and  as  to  really  venomous 
reptiles,  I  have  not  stumbled  upon  one :  indeed,  I  have  seen 
nothing  disagreeable  belonging  to  the  animal  world,  and  only  one 
little  dead  snake,  not  much  larger  than  our  slow-worm,  and,  I  am 
told,  harmless.  I  hear  of  humming-birds  occasionally  on  the 
honeysuckles,  but  it  has  not  been  my  good  fortune  to  see  one ; 
indeed,  I  have  observed  very  few  birds.  There  were  two  or  three 
yellow  linnets,  like  canary  birds,  in  the  Botanic  Garden,  and  I 
heard  one  little  warbler  in  the  morning  from  my  window,  but  he 
sings  very  sparingly.  The  railroad  is  audible  at  times.  I  can 
hardly  believe  we  are  so  near  to  the  business  side  of  life,  from 
the  quiet  tranquillity  immediately  around;  though  we  can  see 
tuwns  on  the  distant  shore,  and  vessels  of  all  kinds  on  the  sea. 

Soon  after  breakfast  this  morning,  Mr.  L took  up  Mrs 

W.  L  and  me,  driven  by  Mr.  E ,  to  see  Wenham  Lake 

(or  pond).     It  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  clear,  and  pure  looking, 
about  four  miles  round  the  banks ;  easy  of  access,  and  at  each 


lii 


II 


28 


WSVHAM   LAKE. 


end  arc  a  number  of  wooden  ice-houses;  a  railroad  has  been 
brought  close  up,  for  the  purpose  of  easy  transportation.  Upon 
the  pebbles  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  we  found  two  little  opaque- 
looking,  oblong  eggs,  supposed  to  belong  to  a  small  turtle.  I 
slcetched  the  lake,  but  found  few  flowers,  though,  on  our  way 
home,  we  gathered  Solidago  Canadensis.     After  dinner  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  L took  me  to  call  upon  their  daughter,  Mrs.  J , 

and  upon  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J) ,  who  have  houses  about  a  mile  on 

the  shore  towards  Beverley,  but  I  think  not  quite  so  prettily 
situated  as  this  cottage.     In  the  evening,  I  wrote  letters.     We 

breakfasted  at  seven  o'clock,  as  Mr.  L went  early  into  Boston. 

Sketched  out  of  doors,  after  paying  a  visit  to  Mrs.  W.  L , 

who  accompanied  me  with  her  cousins,  Mrs.  G and  Mrs. 

L ;  and  Dr.   Gray  returned  to  dinner:    afterwards,  Mrs. 

L drove  with  me  to  Mr.  M 's,  to  see  Mrs.  F and 

Miss  C .     Quite  a  surprise  to  me  to  find  them  so  near.     It 

is  such  a  clear  night,  with  a  bright  moon  lighting  up  the  islands. 
Three  lighthouses  are  visible  from  these  windows — Baker's  Island, 
Boston,  and  Marblehead ;  the  last  only  a  revolving  light. 

I  forgot  to  mention  that  ]\Ir.  S.  C gave  me  a  very  curious 

animal  production,  a  kind  of  elegant  little  vase,  about  two  or 
three  inches  across,  the  colour  and  substance  of  fine  grey  cloth, 
edged  in  scalloped  plaits,  which  were  very  gracefully  formed  out 
of  sand  and  an  adhesive  substance.  It  is  surposed  to  be  the 
work  of  some  kind  of  cockle  by  the  sea-shore,  for  the  purpose  of 
catching  and  confining  its  usual  food.  Much  care  will  be  neces- 
sary to  carry  this  fragile  curiosity  safely  to  England ;  and  I  am 
doubtful  how  to  preserve  my  two  little  turtle's  eggs ;  they  are 
too  solid  to  be  blown,  and  I  propose  to  varnish  them,  which,  per- 
haps, will  prevent  their  destruction.  Mr.  Forbes  (the  gentleman 
who  so  nobly  distinguished  himself  during  our  Irish  famine,  by 
undertaking  t)  freight  a  ship  with  provisions  and  carry  her  across 
the  Atlantic)  dined  here.  He  considers  himself  to  have  some" 
descent  from  or  connexion  with  our  Murrays  in  Scotland,  and  wo 
are  quite  ready  to  acknowledge  the  relationship. 

Thursday,  August  10. — Mr.  L provided  two  Carry-alli 


EAGLE   HEAD. 


29 


'oad  has  been 
tation.  Upon 
little  opaque- 
lall  turtle.  I 
1,  on  our  way 
nner  Mr.  and 

p,  Mrs.  J , 

bout  a  mile  on 
ite  BO  prettily 
)  letters.  We 
ly  into  Boston. 

s.  W.  L , 

and  Mrs. 

erwards,  Mrs. 

•s.  F and 

Q  so  near.  It 
ip  the  islands. 
Baker's  Island, 
r  light. 

!  a  very  curious 

about  two  or 

ine  grey  cloth, 

Uy  formed  out 

sed  to  be  the 

ho  purpose  of 

will  be  neces- 

d;  and  I  am 

ggs ;  they  are 

m,  which,  per- 

the  gentleman 

sh  famine,  by 

rry  her  across 

to  have  some 

tland,  and  wo 

wo  Carry-alli 


to  convey  a  pic-nic  party  to  see  Eagle  Head,  a  fine  porphyry  bluff 

about  seven  miles  distant.     Mrs.  W.  L took  out  her  fine 

good-humoured  baby-girl,  not  seven  months  old,  and  she  seemed 
to  enjoy  the  expedition  as  much  as  any  of  us.  In  our  way  wo 
passed  through  a  bright,  white,  and  clean-looking  upholstery 
manufacturing  town,  called  Manchester,  the  strongest  contrast  to 
our  black,  dirty-looking  Manchester  possible.  The  factory  young 
men  looked  like  smart  London  tradespeople,  and  the  women  were 
equally  well  dressed.  I  have  only  seen  one  ragged-looking  body 
in  these  parts,  and  that  was  in  Boston.  He  was  supposed  to  be 
a  recently  imported  Irishman.  This  part  of  the  country  looks 
rather  sterile  and  unproductive,  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view ; 
more  thickly  sown  with  picturesque  rocks  than  corn,  and  there- 
fore at  first  it  seems  a  miracle  how  the  population  can  moke 
themselves  so  comfortable,  and  their  general  appearance  to  be 
that  of  people  well  to  do  in  the  world ;  but  they  have  plenty  of 
employment  in  various  handicrafts.  Between  this  place  and 
Beverley,  and  towards  Wenham,  there  are  numberless  tidy-look- 
ing small  shoe-workshops — many  shoes  are  made  all  through  the 
neighbourhood ;  these  workshops  are  distinct  from  the  residences 
of  the  shoemakers,  who  reside  in  houses  all  made  of  wood,  but 
of  a  comfortable  size.  One  sees  no  very  small  cottages.  I  have 
met  two  or  three  people  who  say  they  have  come  over  from  Eng- 
land to  make  a  little  money,  and  mean  to  return  there. 

The  views  all  around  Eagle  Head  are  fine ;  numerous  inden- 
tations and  islands  on  this  coast  make  it  so  picturesque.  We 
lunched  on  water-melon  and  cakes ; '  and,  after  spending  two  or 
three  hours  very  pleasantly,  returned  home.     Our  party  consisted 

of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  L ,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray,  Mrs.  G , 

Mrs.  L 's  brother,  Mr.  E ,  two  young  girls,  and  the  baby. 

Mr.  L was  taken  away  by  the  unexpected  arrival  of  a  party 

of  workmen  for  the  construction  of  a  ram,  which  he  was  obliged 
to  superintend.  After  dinner  Mr.  W.  L— —  proposed  a  row  on 
the  sea  by  moonlight ;  all  the  ladies  except  myself  were  afraid  of 
the  undertaking.  The  tide  being  low,  we  were  obliged  to  be 
drawn  into  the  water  by  a  horse  upon  a  low  truck,  and  the  diffi- 


i 


'li 


m     ] 


Ml 


80 


BOSTON. 


eulty  of  sticking  to  it  when  the  horse  made  his  first  effort  to  drag 
the  machine  out  of  deep  sand  was  considerable.  We  returned 
safely,  however,  without  paying  any  other  penalty  for  the  eX' 
periment  than  getting  rather  wet. 

Friday,  10th. — After  breakfast,  Mr.  L walked  with  me 

to  Sunny  Bank.  I  sketched,  before  leaving,  this  pretty  place. 
Mr,  L  showed  me  the  difference  between  common  maize  and 

sweet  corn.  The  latter  appears  to  be  only  more  delicate  than 
the  former.  It  is  very  good,  when  the  corn  is  young,  served  up 
simply  boiled,  to  be  eaten  with  butter  and  salt.     By  the  four 

o'clock  train  I  left  Glencove  with  Mrs.  G ,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

L seeing  us  off.     It  was  more  like  parting  from  old  friends 

than  from  the  acquaintances  of  a  week ;  I  had  found  myself  so 
pleasantly  at  home  among  them.     We  reached  Boston  about  six 

o'clock,  when  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  G ,  who  met  us  at  the 

station ;  and  Mrs.  Gr took  me  home  with  her  to  Ashburton 

Place;    I  found  a  nice  house,  belonging  to  her  mother,  with 

every  comfort ;  and  in  the  evening  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G took  me 

to  call  on  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abbott  Lawrence,  where  we  passed  a 
pleasant  hour,  talking  over  English  matters.  Next  morning 
early,  I  went  with  R to  Tremont  House,  to  unpack  my  bag- 
gage and  arrange  it  for  future  use.  From  ignorance  of  hotel 
customs  in  this  country,  I  had  left  my  trunks  with  the  hotel  au- 
thorities ;  and  they  charged  me  during  my  absence  as  if  my  boxes 
had  eaten  and  drank,  so  that  my  bill  was  more  than  forty  dollars, 
though  I  remained  so  short  a  time  in  the  house,  and  only  had 
two  small  bedrooms  there ;  but  payments  are  made  for  rooms,  not 
for  board  or  attendance ;  and  whether  an  individual  person  or  an 

individual  box,  eats  or  not,  the  same  money  is  paid.     Mr.  G 

took  mo  to  his  studio,  to  see  an  interesting  design  for  sculpture. 
The  subject  was  a  shepherd  boy :  he  is  supposed  to  have  carried 
off  a  young  eaglet,  and  to  be  attacked  by  the  mother  bird.  She 
has  alighted  upon  the  shoulder  of  the  lad,  who,  borne  down  in  a 
stooping  posture,  seizing  one  wing  of  his  assailant,  grasps  in  his 
right  hand  a  knife,  with  which  he  is  prepared  to  defend  himself. 
This  idea  is  expressed  with  great  force.     I  did  not  admire 


BTATDE   OF   WASmNGTON. 


81 


st  effort  to  drag 

We  returned 

Ity  for  the  ex* 

ralked  with  me 
is  pretty  place, 
mon  maize  and 
e  delicate  than 
»ung,  served  up 
By  the  four 

Mr.  and  Mrs. 
om  old  friends 
Dund  myself  so 
)ston  about  six 
0  met  us  at  the 

to  Ashburton 
r  mother,  with 
—  took  me 


t 


re  we  passed  a 
Next  morning 
mpack  my  bag- 
trance  of  hotel 
h  the  hotel  au- 
as  if  my  boxes 
a  forty  dollars, 
and  only  had 
for  rooms,  not 
1  person  or  an 

Mr.  G 

for  sculpture, 
have  carried 
ler  bird.  She 
me  down  in  a 
grasps  in  his 
cicuu  uimseii. 
d  not  admire 


Chantry's  statue  of  "Washington  at  the  State  House ;  it  is  want- 
ing in  character.  The  one  at  the  Athenaeum  is  better;  but 
neither  of  them  satisfy  the  imagination  as  much  as  Stewart's  un- 
finished heads  of  Washington  and  his  wife  in  the  Picture  Gallery. 
Among  the  sculpture  there  are  several  busts  by  native  artists 
which  would,  I  think,  be  considered  fine  in  Europe.  There  was  a 
bas-relief  by  an  elder  brother  of  Mr.  Greenough,  now  dead,  a 
sketch  of  which  I  fancy  to  have  seen  somewhere  in  England. 
At  the  house  of  his  sister  I  saw  another  work  by  the  same  artist ; 
two  children — the  one  as  an  angel  leading  the  awakened  soul  of 
the  other,  with  an  inscription  below ;  very  pretty. 

Mr.  B had  advised  me  to  start  by  the  four  o'clock  train 

for  Providence  to  take  the  Newport  steamer ;  I  was  agreeably 

surprised  by  the  pleasure  of  Mr.  G 's  escort  and  company 

the  whole  way :  he  was  so  obliging  as  to  make  the  discovery  that 
he  too  had  some  friends  to  visit,  and  this  added  much  to  the  ease 
and  the  interest  of  my  journey,  which  was  longer  than  I  expected 
— three  or  four  hours  by  rail,  and  at  least  twenty-five  miles  up  an 
arm  of  the  sea  to  Rhode  Island.     It  was  dark  before  we  reached 

Newport,  but  I  found  Mrs.  B 's  eldest  son  and  Mr.  B 

awaiting  our  arrival :  they  conveyed  me  in  a  carriage  about  two 
miles  to  their  villa,  which,  as  it  has  no  name,  I  shall  call  Ocean 
Cliff.  The  sea  view  has  only  some  small  islands  to  break  the  ex- 
panse of  water ;  so,  if  it  were  possible,  one  might  see  as  far  as 
the  South  Pole.  The  high  ground  between  this  place  and  New- 
port is  studded  by  villas ;  fine  rocks,  which  look  like  limestone, 
edge  the  points  and  bays  of  the  shore,  and  just  below,  black  coal- 
looking  bluffs  crop  out  into  the  waves :  last  evening  I  walked  to 
look  at  them,  but  I  understand  there  is  no  fear  that  the  smoking 
chimneys  of  steam-engines,  or  the  black  produce  of  the  earth, 
will  ever  mar  the  beauties  of  this  shore.     The  next  morning  after 

my  arrival,  young  Mr.  B drove  me  out  in  what  is  here  called 

a  wagon,  a  four-wheeled  kind  of  dog-cart,  with  very  high  light 
wheels  (wheels  very  general  round  this  country,  but  such  as  I 
have  only  seen  attached  to  velocipedes  in  England),  drawn  by  a 
spirited  little  horse,  having  the  same  good  quality  which  I  also 


W      ' 


m        :. 


82 


NEWPORT. 


observed  in  the  larger  one  belonging  to  Mr.  L ,  that  of  stand 

ing  patiently  when  left  to  himself;  in  this  respect  horses  are  bet- 
ter trained  here  than  with  us.  When  we  were  wandering  about 
for  an  hour  or  two,  the  carriage  could  bo  safely  left,  with  the 
reins  only  slightly  attached  to  some  gate  or  paling,  and  the  horse, 
though  powerful  and  spirited,  never  seemed  to  have  an  idea  of 
walking  off.  I  asked  the  English  groom  how  this  was  taught,  but 
received  no  other  explanation  than  that  they  were  trained  to  it , 
and  a  great  convenience  it  is.  One  sees  butchers'  carts  in  Lon- 
don standing  unguarded  at  houses,  but  I  never  found  that  car- 
riages could  be  safely  loft,  particularly  with  the  temptations  of 
green  fields  and  trees  in  every  direction.  We  drove  by  Newport 
to  the  bathing  sands,  where  gentlemen  take  charge  of  ladies  in 
the  surf :  it  was  to  me  a  very  singular  and  amusing  scene — ^numer- 
ous carriages,  drawn  up  before  a  semicircle  of  small  bathing- 
houses,  containing  gaily  dressed  occupants,  who  had  taken  their 
marine  walk,  or  were  waiting  for  the  ladies,  young  and  old,  still 
frolicking  about  among  the  waves,  children  dancing  in  and  out, 
gentlemen  handling  about  their  pretty  partners  as  if  they  were 
dancing  water  quadrilles,  and  heads,  young  and  old,  with  stream- 
ing hair  dipping  in  and  out :  it  was  very  droll,  very  lively,  and  I 
daresay  very  amusing  *o  all  engaged.  No  accident  has  ever  oc- 
curred here,  for  the  bay  is  protected  by  capes  on  each  side,  and 
the  water  is  shallow  for  some  distance  out.  A  white  flag  is  raised 
during  the  hours  appropriated  to  ladies,  and  it  is  succeeded  by  a 
red  one,  later  in  the  day,  when  gentlemen  take  possession  of  the 
shore  on  their  own  account.  The  scene  resembled  that  on  a  race- 
course in  England.  I  made  a  slight  sketch  from  the  hill  above : 
it  was  unique  in  its  way,  for  I  believe  there  are  few  places,  even 
in  America,  where  the  sea  would  be  safe  for  such  an  experiment, 
and  even  here  the  aid  of  strong  arms  is  at  times  very  necessary 
to  save  ladies  from  being  knocked  over  by  the  waves.  There  was 
considerable  surf  to-day,  but,  from  the  numbers  who  breasted  it, 
I  suppose  the  courage  necessary  for  the  undertaking  is  not  so 
great  as  it  appears  to  me.  I  should  look  on  a  long  while  before 
I  oould  try  this  kind  of  experiment. 


▲   NEW    VEGETABLE. 


Sunday y  August  13. — ^I  went  to  the  Episcopal  Church,  which 
was  built  during  the  English  occupation  here ;  Berkeley,  Bishop 
of  Cloyne,  presented  a  good  organ.  The  service  was  well  read : 
our  Liturgy,  with  only  an  occasional  change,  which  I  thought  an 
improvement.  The  sermon,  preached  by  a  Mr.  Cook,  good  in 
matter  and  in  manner,  and  ending  at  the  right  moment — ^not  spun 
out  so  as  to  weaken  its  effect :  as  it  was  neither  commonplace  nor 
dry,  I  did  not  think  whether  it  lasted  for  twenty  minutes  or  for 
fifty  minutes,  and  I  really  do  not  know  what  its  duration  may 
have  been.  The  subject  was  Christ's  command  to  *  follow  him,' 
and  the  moral  deduced  was,  that  the  experiment  of  obedience,  if 
fairly  tried,  will  never  fail  to  convince  the  sceptic,  and  to 
strengthen  the  believer.  Dinner  was  at  three  o'clock ;  afterwards, 

Mr.  G joined  us  in  a  walk  to  the  shore.     Tea  was  ready 

when  we  returned ;  a  beautiful  moonlight,  starlight  night.  Mr. 
Lawrence,  an  English  artist,  walked  in;  his  crayon  portraits 
are  much  liked  here,  and  with  good  reason ;  they  are  true,  pleasing, 
and  spirited.  I  much  admired  a  sketch  of  Bogers,  done  just 
before  Mr.  Lawrence  came  from  England  last  spring. 

I  see  nothing  like  timber  upon  this  island.     Mrs.   B 

showed  me  a  little  bit  of  primeval  forest  yesterday ;  it  appeared 
to  consist  of  hickory  and  sassafras,  low,  thick,  and  scrubby  ;  but 
the  English  are  accused  of  having  destroyed  nearly  all  the  natu- 
ral wood  during  the  revolutionary  period.  The  Gulf  Stream 
touches  this  shore,  which  makes  a  mild  and  genial  climate,  though 
I  am  told  that  sharp  winters  here  destroy  myrtles  and  pomegran- 
ates, which  flourish  upon  our  south-w3stern  coast,  while  a  warmer 
summer  sun  ripens  fruits  that  fail  with  us.  I  must,  however,  try 
to  introduce  an  excellent  vegetable  into  England,  which  is  called 
here  by  the  name  of  Okra.  I  have  not  yet  seen  the  flower  expanded, 
but  the  plant  looks  like  some  kind  of  Hibiscus,  with  a  long  green 
fruit,  which  makes  a  delicious  ingredient  in  soups ;  it  is  softer  and 
more  gelatinous  than  asparagus,  and  when  young  and  tender 
is  cut  in  slices  :  it  is  an  annual,  and  perhaps  will  not  ripen  seed 
with  us,  but  is  surely  better  worth  raising  in  hot-houses  than 
Frgnoh  beans.  I  will  get  some  good  seed  by  and  by ;  thif  and 
2» 


84 


NEWPORT. 


I  h 


'  i 


III 


the  Bubus  villosus  would  both  be  good  introductions ,  there  is  a 
high  variety  of  the  latter,  which  might,  I  think,  be  cultivated  in 
our  warmer  gardens,  like  raspberries ;  the  fruit  is  in  size  and  col- 
our between  the  blackberry  and  mulberry,  and  I  think  much  bet- 
ter than  the  first,  and  much  more  certain  than  the  last,  though 
the  flavour  may  not  be  quite  so  high  as  that  of  a  really  good  mul- 
berry. I  am  surprised  that  it  has  never  yet  been  cultivated  in 
England.  At  six  o'clock  this  morning,  a  thick  fog,  which  ended 
in  rain  and  a  fine  day. 

There  are  people  this  side  the  Atlantic  who,  a<:;  new  acquaint- 
ances, are  very  pleasant.     This  morning  I  have  boQn  introduced 

to  Mrs.  and  Miss  B ;  they  sympathize  about  flowers  and 

stones,  which  is  rare  in  this  country ;  and  they  are  not  the  least 
stiff  or  cold.  When  people  are  cultivated  and  warm-hearted,  I 
soon  forget  and  forgive  their  habits  of  making  all  our  vowels  double, 
and  even  the  nasal  tone  of  some  among  them.  There  is  a  genu 
ino  characteristic  frankness  here  whif^h  is  very  pleasant.  There 
is  no  reason  why  we  should  treat  our  iCilow-beings  that  happen  to 
be  new  acquaintances,  with  less  kindness  than  dogs  or  horses.  I 
am  afraid  this  is  a  fault  in  our  national  character.  I  believe  we 
are  honest  and  sincere,  and  that  is  better  than  mere  surface  polite- 
ness ,'  but  we  lose  so  much  time  in  our  cautious  civilities,  that  in 
some  cases  life  is  half  expended  before  we  dare  exchange  mere 
acquaintanceship  for  a  warmer  feeling.  The  Americans,  who  are 
a  go-ahead  people  in  all  their  concerns,  appear  to  me  to  carry 
their  hearts  in  their  hands ;  this  is  very  pleasant  to  a  stranger 
coming  suddenly  among  them  ;  and  it  is  difficult  for  me  to  *  realize ' 
that  it  is  only  fourteen  days  to-morrow  since  I  landed  on  these 
shores,  so  many  homes  and  hearts  upon  it  have  already  been 
opened  to  me.  Perhaps  I  shall  find  a  difference  in  other  places, 
and  I  may  have  been  particularly  fortunate  in  my  first  acquaint- 
ances. There  is  certainly  great  beauty  and  refinement  of  feature 
among  the  mass  of  the  people,  but  it  is  accompanied  by  a  fragili- 
ty of  look  which  raises  painful  feelings.  As  far  as  I  can  judge  at 
present,  this  is  owing  partly  to  hereditary  causes,  partly  to  actual 
habits.     The  excitement  and  anxieties  of  business  life  in  a  ue> 


« 


AHEBICAN   KINDNESS. 


85 


country  probably  entail  constitutional  delicacy  upon  the  children 
of  parents  so  eagerly  occupied,  and  the  sedentary  city  education 
and  pursuits  of  the  young  of  the  last  and  present  generation,  un* 
favourable  to  out-of-door  interests  and  amusements,  do  not  harden, 
and  strengthen  the  nerves  and  muscles.  I  am  already  tempted  to 
controvert  the  assertion  of  American  ladies,  that  their  generally 
delicate  health  is  to  be  attributed  to  climate.  They  may  have 
severer  winters  and  warmer  summers  than  ours,  but  these  are  ac- 
companied by  the  advantages  of  less  damp,  and  of  brighter  sun- 
shine. I  have  not  had  an  hour  too  warm  for  exercise  during 
any  part  of  the  day,  for  though  the  sun  is  brighter,  it  does  not  al- 
ways beam  so  furiously  as  with  us.  The  climate  of  Massachusetts 
seems  to  me  a  charming  one,  and  I  believe  another  generation  will 
discover  its  merits,  because  I  entertain  hopes  that  the  children 
now  growing  up  will  acquire  more  hardy  habits.  The  evil  I  am 
speaking  of  cannot  be  remedied  in  a  day ;  and  I  find  American 
ladies  are  at  this  moment  so  little  informed  with  regard  to  natu- 
ral productions,  and  so  unfitted  for  country  pursuits,  that  their 
ignorance  of  these  matters  is  at  once  the  evidence  and  the  cause 
of  their  lack  of  physical  strength. 

Newport  J  August  15. — I  was  introduced  to  about  thirty  new 
faces  yesterday.  Among  them  the  Governor  of  New  York.  A  pleas- 
ant acquaintance ;  he  gave  me  much  geological  information,  and 
promises  to  forward  my  seeing  Albany,  &c.,  to  advantage.  I  took  a 
walk  on  the  shore  just  below  this  garden,  and  was  much  interested, 
as  well  as  a  good  deal  puzzled.  My  little  geological  knowledge 
is  quite  at  fault ;  sand  and  quartz  rocks,  coal  and  limestone,  and 
they  say  granite  beyond ;  this  seems  to  me  a  jumble.  I  suppose 
it  will  be  reduced  to  order  by  and  bye.     After  dinner  Mrs. 

B took  me  a  distant  drive,  up  the  Island,  to  call  on  Dr.  and 

Mrs.  Howe :  the  doctor's  name  and  benevolent  deeds  have  long 
been  familiar  to  me.  We  found  also,  visiting  them,  a  nephew  of 
the  late  Dr,  Tinkerman,*  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carlton,!  descendants 
of  Lord  Baltimore.     Dr.  Howe  has  bought  a  cottage  in  a  pictu- 


*  Tuckerman  ? — Am.  Ed. 


t  Calvert?— ^»i.J£a. 


^ 


I 


i 


1! 


I 


I 


:'i 


86 


NBWPORT. 


resque  yallej,  about  a  mile  from  the  sea-shore,  and  is  busy  making 
walks  and  opening  out  views  ;  his  children  will  benefit  in  health 
and  tastes.  The  sun  set  before  we  eould  tear  ourselves  away,  and 
so  we  got  heme  in  the  dark,  and  broke  an  engagement  to  drink 

tea  out ;  but  Mrs.  and  Miss  B came  here  instead,  and  we 

had  a  pleasant  evening.     Miss  B will  come  soon  after  eight 

to-morrow  morning,  to  take  me  to  the  rocks ;  she  is  the  only 
active  young  lady  I  have  met  with  ! 

August  16. — After  an  early  breakfast,  Miss  B took 

me  to  Newport,  to  get  an  Americr  ^  trunk  to  pack  parcels ;  and 


in  coming  back  we  went  to  see  the  pretty  view  from  Mrs.  B 's 

house,  and  after  carrying  home  our  purchase,  we  drove  to  Mrs. 

C 's  villa,  which  is  built  close  to  a  shore  of  fine  granite  rocks. 

Several  lady  visitors  were  with  Mrs.  B before  I  came  away. 

Soon  after  one  o'clock  I  called  for  Mr.  G^ ,  who  accompanied 

me  on  board  the  steamer,  where  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Howe.  The  Doctor  went  on  with  us  to  Boston. 
Dr.  Gray  came  to  Ashburton  Place,  and  promises  to  go  with  mc 
to-morrow,  as  far  as  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  ('  Spirit  of  the  Waters,') 
which  I  am  to  see  on  my  way  to  the  White  Mountains ;  from 
thence  my  proposed  route  to  Gaoada  is  by  Burlington  and  Lake 
George.  Although  so  much  is  said  about  cholera.  Lord  Elgin 
mentions  that  there  is  great  exaggeration.  Bain  is  prophesied 
to-night,  and  it  would  be  better  to  have  wet  before  my  next  jour- 
ney, to  lay  the  dust.  There  has  only  been  one  showery  day  since 
my  arrival  in  America,  a  fortnight  to-day ;  it  seems  more  like 
two  months  than  two  weeks — so  many  new  ideas  have  been 
crowded  into  the  time.  The  Canada  sails  to-morrow.  I  have 
had  no  news  from  England  later  than  the  morning  I  left  Liver- 
pool ;  and  probably  my  letters  have  gone  to  the  care  of  Lord 
Elgin.     No  time  for  more  to-night. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


^= 


^    VV 


^ 


^  ^^    ^ 


S^t>^^^»^g 


V^ 


^ 


<^ 


C!<^^\^  O  v^-*^  OO'^O  Ckv^.O  c^\^^C)  C'v 


ns. 


LETTER  IV. 


SL  AVER  Y   QUESTION. 

BOSTOW,  \ 

Wednesday,  Augutt  16.  | 

My  dear  Friends, — 

My  last  letter  will  go  by  the  Canada  this  morning,  if  pos- 
sible (as  the  train  by  which  we  travel  towards  the  White  Moun- 
tains does  not  start  till  afternoon).     I  shall  try  to  see  Captain 

Stone  before  he  sails.  Mrs.  G is  gone  to  Sunny  Brook,  so  I  miss 

her  here ;  her  sister  received  me,  Mrs.  L being  confined  to 

her  room  by  illness.  I  am  told  that  after  leaving  these  Northern 
States,  I  shall  find  the  country,  and  the  people,  and  the  habits, 
much  less  English ;  here  the  shade  of  difference  is  very  slight — 
certainly  not  greater  than  a  difference  of  institutions  necessitates. 
A  supply  of  excellent  water  is  so  abundant  in  Boston  (derived,  I 
am  told,  from  Lake  Cochituate,  forty  miles  distant,)  that  by  six 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  see  the  servants  belonging  to  houses 
watering  the  pavement  before  the  doors  with  a  long  hose,  as  we 
should  water  our  gardens;  and  the  house-maids,  with  those  clean, 
convenient,  light  looking  Shaker  brooms,  sweeping  away  the  dust. 
I  do  not  know  any  one  of  our  towns  (not  even  Bath)  which  exceeds 
this  in  purity  and  neatness  :  and^  as  there  is  a  great  deal  of  chol- 
era abroad,  in  coming  through  the  streets  the  other  day,  I  found 
ihf^va.  perfumed  with  hot  vinegar.  I  was  told  a  carriage  full  of 
that  fumigated  liquid  had  been  driven  smoking  through  the 
streets.  There  are  deaths  every  day  here,  and  some  at  Newport ; 
but  it  is  not  believed  to  be  contagious  at  present,  only  carrying 


88 


BOSTON. 


off  the  profligate  and  the  debilitated.  I  hear,  though,  that  tho 
deaths  at  New  York  last  veek,  among  a  population  of  five  hundred 
thousand  only,  equalled  our  usual  bills  of  mortality  in  London.  I 
should  particularly  dread  any  epidemic  falling  upon  a  people 
which,  as  a  general  rule,  looked  so  over-worked,  and  fragile,  and 
thin  as  these  Northern  Americans.     Dr.  Howe  says  it  is  climate ; 

as  yet  I  am  incredulous  upon  this  point.     My  friend,  Mr.  L , 

confessed  he  was  almost  in  his  grave  when,  eight  years  ago,  he 
bought  his  pretty  place.  Now,  with  the  revivifying  influence  of 
his  farm  and  garden  (although  he  does  not  entirely  give  up  hit) 
legal  duties),  he  looks  as  strong  and  healthy  as  any  sexagenarian 
upon  our  side  of  the  Atlantic.  I  should  like  to  transplant  all  the 
sick  dyspeptic  men  and  women  of  New  York  and  Boston  into 
gardens  and  fields,  before  I  will  admit  that  this  pleasant  climate 
is  to  blame.  I  am  rather  inclined  to  assert  that  mental  excite- 
ment,  and  money-making,  and  sedentary  employments  are  the  real 
criminals,  and  that  something  is  due  to  the  laws  of  inheritance 
even  in  this  unentailing  country.  Till  my  introduction  to  the 
Governor  of  New  York,  I  did  not  know  that  each  State  has  a  Gov- 
ernor. Governor  Seymour  lives  at  Albany.  Some  of  these  Gov- 
ernors are  only  elected  for  two  years,  and  this  gentleman  does 
credit  to  popular  choice. 

What  is  likely  to  be  the  effect  of  the  Nebraska  Bill  upon  tho 
Slavery  question  ?  Some  intelligent  men  appear  to  think  it  is  as 
much  a  political  catch  as  some  of  those  divisions  in  our  House  ol 
Commons  which  are  rendered  nugatory  by  after  divisions ;  and 
that  it  has  roused  the  feelings  of  the  enlightened  and  liberals, 
who  consider  the  question  as  one  merely  of  time,  a  disease  requir- 
ing only  the  treatment  of  wise  and  not  too  hasty  physicians, — 
perhaps  this  apparently  retrograde  step  will  ultimately  hasten  the 
desired  change.  One  kind  person,  who  is  o  planter,  told  me  he 
has  no  other  wish  than  to  see  his  black  children  able  to  uce  the 
gift  of  themselves,  which  few  deny^to  be  their  right,  if  they  can 
use  it ;  but,  like  our  Colonies,  they  must  become  men  in  expe- 
rience and  intelligence  before  they  can  take  care  of  themaelves, 
and  I  am  already  inclined  to  hope  that  the  '  Lcgrecs '  are  as  much 


THB   VEXED   QUESTION. 


<9 


ugh,  that  tho 
f  five  hundred 
D  London.  I 
Don  a  people 
d  fragile,  and 
)  it  is  climate ; 

d,  Mr.  L , 

years  ago,  he 
V  influence  of 
y  give  up  his 

sexagenarian 
nsplant  all  the 
i  Boston  into 
iasant  climate 
mental  excite- 
[its  are  the  real 
of  inheritance 

uction  to  the 
iate  has  a  Gov- 

of  these  Gov- 

ntleman  does 


exceptional  beings,  as  idle  and  profligate  landholders  among  our- 
selves. In  saying  this,  I  know  you  will  not  think  me  upholding 
Slavery;  Christianity  will  and  must  subdue  it — ^not  by  teaching 
us  to  vilify  and  persecute  those  less  fortunate  of  our  brethren  who 
have  had  the  curse  of  human  possessions  entailed  upon  them — ^but 
by  enlightening  the  darkened,  and  instructing  the  ignorant;  and 
even  (if  that  should  be  necessary)  making  such  property  valueless 
in  a  commercial  point  of  view.  No  individual  selfishness,  and  no 
political  intrigues,  can  prevent  the  wished-for  consummation ;  and 
I  firmly  believe  there  are  few,  very  few,  even  in  the  South,  who 
will  not  hail  with  joy  the  moment  of  emancipation — a  movement 
at  present  delayed  by  doubts  and  fears.  This  is  my  first  view  of 
a  vexed  question ;  I  may  alter  it — I  may  change  it  altogether ; 
but  in  the  meanwhile,  such  as  it  is,  I  give  it. 

Yours  afiectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


|Bill  upon  the 

think  it  is  as 

our  House  of 

ivisions;  and 

and  liberals, 

iiseaso  requir- 

physicians, — 

;ely  hasten  the 

Ir,  told  me  he 

])le  to  use  the 

It,  if  they  can 

Imcn  in  uxpe- 

pf  themaelves, 

r  are  as  much 


«?'! 


LETTER  V. 


THE     WHITE     MOUNTAINS     TOUR. 


ii!    i 


i: 


Ml 


Alton  Bat,  Nrw  Hamfshibi,  I 
August  17.  ) 

My  Dkar  Friends, — 

Owing  to  a  mistake  about  the  railroad  hour,  I  am  here, 
instead  of  at  the  most  frequented  end  of  Lake  Winnipiseogee,  in 
what  is  considered  a  wild  village ;  but  this  simple  little  hotel  called 
Winnipiseogee  House  is  clean,  and  much  more  comfortable  than 
any  out-of-the-way  Scotch  inns  I  ever  was  at ;  and  it  is  well  to  see 
here  a  specimen  of  the  wonderful  industry  of  this  people— railroads 
down  to  the  very  water.  I  forgot  to  mention  that  before  we  left 
Boston,  Dr.  Gray  took  me  to  see  Faneuil  Hall  (Huguenot  name), 
built,  as  a  public  gift  to  the  town  of  Boston  in  old  times,  by  a 
merchant.  It  is  the  place  where  the  first  public  meeting  was 
held  during  the  Kevolution ;  and  there  is  a  large  picture  of 
Webster  speaking  in  Congress  upon  the  Nullification  question. 
It  is  well  painted  for  its  purpose,  and  the  portraits  are  considered 
like.  I  afvcrwards  made  a  sketch  of  the  oldest  house  in  Boston, 
now  a  shop,  the  date  1683.  Bather  before  two  o'clock  we  left  in 
the  railway  cars  for  Winnipiseogee.  The  line  goes  through  a 
country  much  resembling  English  park  scenery;  glades  and 
woods  and  single  trees,  sugar  maples,  red  maples,  hemlock  spruce, 
Weymouth  pines,  black,  white,  and  red  oak,  with  creeping  juniper, 
and  occasionally  wild  vines,  which  associate  ideas  of  high  culti- 
vation with  the  landscape  in  an  English  mind,  from  such  things 

in  our  country.    We  passed  through  towns 


being  indigene 


RAILWAY   ARRANGEMENTS. 


41 


and  villages  called  Charlestown,  Somerville,  Edgware,  Maiden, 
Melrose,  Reading,  Andover,  Haverhill,  Newton,  Kingston,  Exeter, 
Newmarket,  Durham,  Dover,  Berwick,  Portland,  Rochester,  New 
Durham,  and  Alton,  and  these  following,  as  I  have  written  them, 
to  the  utter  confusion  of  English  geography.  Among  them  were 
some  Indian  names,  much  more  beautiful  and  appropriate  to  this 
country.  Swampscot,  Cochego,  Scournamagowie  (how  like 
Scournalapich,  in  Ross-shire),  Agawam,  &c.,  &c.  At  Dover, 
after  passing  the  Miramachi  river,  we  changed  cars,  and  entered 
a  branch  railroad  for  Alton  Bay.  This  was  very  slow,  as  it 
stopped  at  several  stations  for  mercantile  purposes ;  and  though 
we  left  at  five,  we  did  not  arrive  till  after  eight  o'clock,  having 
been  more  than  three  hours  going  about  twenty-five  miles ;  but 
the  route  was  pretty  :  sometimes  cut  through  a  drift  of  sand,  con- 
taining boulders  of  granite,  with  large  plates  of  mica,  it  occasion- 
ally reminded  me  of  the  forest  of  Fontainebleau,  but  without 
fine  timber,  this  forest  being  all  young;  no  trees  looked  older 
than  thirty  or  forty  years.  We  had  a  hospitable  welcome ;  clean 
rooms  and  beds,  charges  inodcrate.  Here,  fcr  the  first  time,  I  see 
hand-lamps  in  which  a  mixture  of  camphene  and  alchohol  is  used ; 
it  burns  clearly,  and  gives  a  pleasant  light.  This  camphene  is 
chiefly  manufactured  from  turpentine  collected  in  the  pine  woods 
of  North  Carolina. 

August  18. — Before  breakfast,  I  sketched  the  lake,  &c.,  from 
my  window.  A  large  quantity  of  wood  lay  about  in  all  direc- 
tions, for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  car  engines  and  lake 
steamers  with  fuel,  wood  only  being  used :  the  railroad  carriages 
are  never  called  by  any  other  name  than  cars ;  they  are  more 
like  movable  galleries;  in  some  respects  I  prefer  them  to  car- 
riages ;  they  are  more  airy,  and  the  seats,  holding  two  all  down 
each  side  of  the  centre,  are  roomy  and  comfortable.  A  cord 
runs  along  the  middle  of  the  roof,  by  which  the  driver  may  be 
communicated  with ;  it  is  out  of  the  reach  of  children :  there  is 
a  conductor,  who  walks  backwards  and  forwards  between  the 
long  cars,  which  I  imagine  convey  from  sixty  to  eighty  passengers 
in  eaoh ;  these  are  oooasionally  refreshed  by  an  Aquarius,  walking 


42 


THB   FAPEa  BIRCH. 


m 


«- 


m  I 


with  his  little  fountain  of  iced  water,  distributing  it  liberally  at 
the  cost  of  the  Company.  Even  this  small  and  not  very  much 
frequented  place  has  not  only  a  railroad  which  takes  one  down 
nearly  to  the  landing-place,  but  also  a  branqh  oflF  it,  to  convey 
wood.  Certainly,  Americans  are  very  purpose-like  and  indus- 
trious, and  I  have  as  yet  met  with  nothing  but  what  has  been 
polite,  with  the  exception  of  the  unintentional  rudeness  of  two 
or  three  country  people  here,  who  established  themselves  at  the 
window  listening  to  our  conversation,  and  asking  for  my  sketch- 
books ;  but  it  was  in  the  simplicity  of  their  hearts ;  they  meant 
no  ill,  and  were  only  doing  as  they  would  be  done  by.  Here  I 
was  sorry  to  part  with  Dr.  Gray,  who  kindly  came  so  far  to  put 
me  in  the  way  of  American  travel ;  but  he  first  drove  me  in  a 
'  wagon '  about  two  miles'  distance,  to  bee  an  extensive  view  of  the 
lake,  which  must  be  from  seventy  to  eighty  miles  round,  with 
deep  indentations,  and  numerous  islands  thickly  clothed  by  wood ; 
which,  not  being  of  a  size  to  pay  for  transport,  is  left  undis> 
turbed.    I  did  not  observe  any  of  them  to  be  inhabited. 

I  am  rather  pleased  that  our  mistake  about  the  train  from 
Boston  caused  us  to  come  here  instead  of  to  a  place  called  the 
Weir ;  as  from  hence  I  shall  go  the  whole  length  of  the  lake,  in- 
stead of  only  about  twelve  miles  to  Centre  Harbour,  the  point 
from  which  I  am  to  visit  the  White  Mountains.  In  going  up  the 
hill  I  saw  a  fine  paper  birch.  Those  trees  are  numerous  here, 
and  Dr.  Gray  took  off  some  sheets  for  me  to  draw  upon :  it  is 
prettily  shaded,  and  easily  takes  either  pencil  or  colour ;  being 
both  tough  and  soft,  it  comes  off  in  layers.  I  can  easily  imagine 
how  the  Indians  make  canoes  and  all  sorts  of  things  of  it;  the 
tree  is  handsome,  with  larger  leaves  than  ours  has,  and  a  still 
whiter  stem.  I  found,  too,  the  high  blackberry,  a  handsome 
sbrub ;  and  a  witch  hazel,  different  from  ours.  Upon  a  beautiful 
spot  overlooking  the  lake,  we  came  to  a  house,  deserted  by  its 
inhabitants  about  a  year  ago.  The  doors  and  windows  were 
still  perfectly  good,  and  of  a  size  far  beyond  a  cottager's  abode 
in  England.  In  a  week  I  could  have  made  it  comfortable 
enougji  to  live  in.    A  boy  told  ua  the  own&rs  had  built  one  larger 


CENTRE   HARBOUR. 


48 


ing  it  liberally  at 
id  not  very  much 
takes  one  down 
off  it,  to  convey 
e-like  and  indus- 
it  what  has  been 
rudeness  of  two 
hemselves  at  the 
g  for  my  sketch- 
arts  ;  they  meant 
one  by.     Here  I 
me  so  far  to  put 
t  drove  me  in  a 
insive  view  of  the 
liles  round,  with 
jlothed  by  wood ; 
rt,  is  left  undis- 
^abitod. 

the  train  from 
place  called  the 
of  the  lake,  in- 
30ur,  the  point 
n  going  up  the 
numerous  here, 
*aw  upon :  it  is 
colour;  being 
easily  imagine 
ngs  of  it;  the 
as,  and  a  still 
a  handsome 
on  a  beautiful 
iserted  by  ita 
,vindows  were 
tager's  abode 
'   comfortable 
lit  one  larger 


and  in  a  more  sheltered  situation.  The  first  steamer  had  depart- 
ed  just  as  we  returned,  and  it  was  four  o'clock  when  Dr.  Gray 
entered  the  train,  to  return  to  Boston.     R  and  I  went  on 

board  a  very  comfortable,  clean  boat  called  the  Dover.  There 
were  not  many  people  on  board.  One  American  gentleman,  who 
had  been  in  England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  and  apparently  all  over 
the  world,  came  and  talked  to  me,  and  then  presented  his  card 
before  landing  at  Wolfsborough.  At  first  the  lake  reminded  me 
of  some  of  ours,  but  it  soon  widened  out  so  as  to  be  on  a  grand- 
er scale;  and,  with  its  numerous  islands  and  mountain  back- 
ground, I  thought  it  exceedingly  beautiful.  It  was  twilight 
before  we  landed  at  Centre  Harbour,  the  sun  having  made  a  glo- 
rious setting.     We  found  a  very  comfortable  hotel  here. 

August  19. — Early  this  morning,  I  went  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

T and  a  party,  in  a  kind  of  char-d-banc,  which  held  nine,  to 

Red  Hill,  so  called  from  the  brilliant  color  of  the  foliage  late  in 
the  year.  I  refused  to  drive  up  the  ascent,  and  therefore  paused 
at  a  small  farm  to  draw.  The  family  consisted  of  a  grandmother 
and  several  sons,  with  a  married  daughter  and  children.  The 
old  woman  was  very  obliging ;  she  kt  me  taste  a  cheese  she  was 
making,  and  gave  me  a  seat  at  the  door,  where  there  was  a  beau- 
tiful view.  The  daughter  soon  came  dowJI  stairs;  she  looked 
delicate,  as  almost  all  American  women  doj  and  I  was  amused 
at  the  simplicity  with  which  she  informed  me  she  should  like  to 
take  a  pattern  of  my  gown,  as  it  was  exactly  what  she  wanted ; 
so  I  gave  her  leave  to  get  her  paper  and  scissors  for  the  purpose, 
and  she  accepted  my  permission  quite  as  a  matter  of  course. 
This  evening  I  saw  seven  or  eight  cows  driven  by  the  owner,  who 
occupied  a  gig.  He  was  a  respectable  looking  man,  with  a  good 
horse,  which  he  drove,  ad  libitum,  first  on  one  side  the  road,  and 
then  over  the  turf  or  into  the  ditch  on  the  other  side  ! 

After  considering  different  routes,  I  am  inclined  to  go  by  Con 
way  to-morrow  to  the  Notch,  instead  of  Plymouth.     I  got  a  yel- 
low Geradia  to-day,  on  the  Red  Hill ;  it  is  a  beautiful  plant ;  per- 
haps it  is  Geradia  quercifolia. 

August  20. — Genir»  Harbour. — Last  night  I  made  acquaint- 


44 


MOUNT   WILLARD. 


¥   !l 


anoe  with  a  brother  and  sister  of  a  gentleman  who  came  over  in 
the  Canada ;  we  determined  to  go  on  together  by  the  Conway 
House  route  to  the  White  Mountains  in  a  kind  of  char-ot-bano 
we  are  to  hire  for  the  purpose,  instead  of  proceeding  by  coach  to 
the  Weir  (another  place  on  this  lake),  and  there  taking  the  road 
for  Plymouth.  We  arrived  at  the  Conway  House  before  three 
o'clock,  having  been  long  in  making  the  journey  of  thirty  miles, 
owing  to  a  very  hilly  road,  nearly  all  the  way  through  deep  sand. 
The  drive  was  hot  and  dusty,  but  very  beautiful,  through  woods 
and  by  lakes ;  one  called  Long  Pond,  another  Six-Mile  Pond,  &o 
I  could  have  supposed  myself  in  Scotland,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Loch  Awe,  or  the  Garry  Lochs,  had  it  not  been  'or  the  paper 
birch,  sugar  maples,  &o.,  &c.,  and  the  undergrowth  of  shrub  oak 
— a  very  pretty  shrub,  which  I  have  not  before  seen.  There 
were  no  horses  to  take  us  on,  after  our  dinner  at  Horace  Fabian's 
house,  therefore,  we  must  make  up  our  minds  to  go  very  early  to- 
morrow (Sunday),  so  as  to  get  to  Crauford  House,  at  the  Notch, 
White  Mountains,  by  one  o'clock. 

We  left  Conway  this  morning,  August  20th,  at  six  o'clock,  in 
a  very  comfortable  open  carriage,  with  three  horses ;  such  a  beau- 
tiful drive  !  The  country  resembles  Braemar,  near  Invercauld, 
but  is  still  finer,  as*the  mountains  are  higher  and  the  foliage  is 
mere  varied.  We  parsed  the  Willow-house,  out  of  which  an  un- 
fortunate family  of  nine  persons  fled,  a  few  years  ago,  to  avoid  a 
slip  in  tl  )  mountains.  The  house  was  untouched,  and  these 
poor  people  were  buried  alive  by  the  falling  stones  a  short  dis- 
tance from  it.  We  arrived  at  the  hotel  in  good  time ;  I  found 
some  acq:^aintances  there,  and  was  induced  to  accompany  them  in 
a  char-d-banc^  drawn  by  six  horses,  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Willard.  Having  once  embarked  in  the  undertaking,  I  was 
aahamet^  to  insist  upon  being  let  off;  but  the  ascent  was  really 
a  tremendous  one  for  any  veh.cle  whatever;  and  how  wo  ever  got 
safely  up  and  down  again,  i?  a  marvel  to  me.  This  house  is  full 
of  people,  but  all  is  comfortably  arranged.  I  like  one  American 
plan,  of  paying  for  inn  accommodation ;  no  bill  of  items  is  ever 
given.    The  payment  is  at  the  rate  of  three  or  four  dollars  a-day 


A   H.  STY  JUDGMENT. 


4& 


10  camo  over  in 
by  iho  Conway 
i  of  charii-bano 
ling  by  coach  to 
taking  the  road 
ise  before  three 
of  thirty  miles, 
ough  deep  sand, 
through  woods 
Mile  Pond,  &o 
jighbourhood  of 
1  *br  the  paper 
th  of  shrub  oak 
e  seen.     There 
lorace  Fabian's 
9  very  early  to- 
>  at  the  Notch, 

t  six  o'clock,  in 
such  a  beau- 
ar  Invercauld, 
the  foliage  is 
which  an  un- 
igo,  to  avoid  a 
ed,  and  these 
es  a  short  dis- 
ime;  I  found 
ipany  them  in 
nit  of  Mount 
aking,  I  was 
nt  was  really 
V  wo  ever  got 
house  is  full 
ne  American 
items  is  ever 
dollars  a-day 


and  there  is  an  end  of  it.  This  saves  much  trouble  and  time 
Dining  is  not  cheap  at  those  hotels ;  but  those  who  keep  them  foi 
the  convenience  of  travellers  must  have  a  certain  sum ;  and  what 
does  it  signify  wheth'^r  this  is  charged  for  wax  candles  or  for 
bread  and  butter  ? 

August  21.—  K  party  went  oflF  this  morning  by  eight  o'clock 
to  ascend  Mount  vfashington  on  horseback,  and  perhaps  to  spend 
the  night  there ;  but  I  resisted  all  temptation  to  join  it,  having 
quite  enough  to  amuse  and  occupy  me  below.  Another  beautiful 
day — ^beautiful  for  us,  but  not  for  the  poor  farmers,  who  feel  the 
present  drought.  Most  of  the  streams  and  waterfalls  are  dry ; 
but  we  are  ready  to  compound  for  some  loss  of  picturesque 
effect  for  the  sake  of  the  charming  weather.  Yesterday  I  ate 
sweet  potatoes  at  dinner ;  they  taste  very  like  chestnuts.  Such 
things  are  not  grown  here,  but  come  from  the  South.  I  find  ex- 
treme civility  and  attention  from  all  the  waiters  and  attendants 
in  the  White  Mountain  hotels.  On  the  whole,  my  impression 
of  the  American  people  has  been  hitherto  far  more  agreeable 
than  I  expected.  One  gentleman,  at  Centre  House,  held  forth 
upon  the  backwardness  of  England,  and  about  her  institutions 
having  been  stationary  for  the  last  two  hundred  years.  I  asked 
him  whetiier  he  had  ever  visited  the  country,  and  upon  his  allow- 
ing he  had  not,  I  advised  him  to  defer  making  up  his  opinion 
until  he  had  had  a  fair  opportunity  of  judging.  I  do  not  think 
his  notions  were  sympathized  with  by  those  who  were  around  us. 
The  everlasting  rocking-chairs  among  the  ladies  make  me  quite 
dizzy,  and  give  me  a  sea-sick  feeling :  and  the  custom  raises  an  idea 
of  want  of  rational  occupation,  without  even  the  doubtful  satis- 
faction of  a  '  dolce  far  niente.''  The  broad  English  farmer-like 
pronunciation  is  also  unpleasant  to  English  ears;  but  good- 
humour  and  the  laws  of  kindness  have  prevailed  wherever  I 
have  yet  been,  united  to  a  higher  general  intelligence  than  among 
the  majority  of  our  population.  The  difference  between  ua 
appears  to  be  that  our  higher  classes  have  more  principle,  ele- 
gance,  and  lofinement ;  the  women  more  energy  and  activity,  and 
the  men  more  athletic  amusements ;  while  oivr  middle  and  lower 


il 


'II   1 1 


i  m 


■  >i 


i 
I 


i  \W  I  I 


!l 


i 


46 


THK  PROPILE   HOUSE. 


classes  are  less  highly  educated,  perhaps  rather  more  narrow 
minded,  and  physically,  work  harder ;  although,  in  some  respects, 
I  think  the  Americans  wear  themselves  out  sooner,  particularly 
those  occupied  in  manufactures  or  mercantile  affairs.  The  race 
and  the  appearance  of  horses  is  an  example  which  runs  through 
everything  here.  There  are  none  so  perfect  as  our  most  perfect ; 
but  the  animals  generally  go  better,  and  are  better  fed  than  second 
or  third-rate  horses  in  England.     I  had  a  pleasant  walk  with  Mr. 

T ,  who  was  very  kind  in  helping  me  over  difficulties,  and 

patient  in  waiting  while  I  drew,  or  hunted  for  plants.  I  found 
Trilliums  in  seed,  and  the  roots  of  some  kind  of  Epiphyte,  and  a 
beautiful  little  creeping  evergreen  {Ghiogenes)  on  the  rotten 
trunks  of  trees ;  many  other  forms  were  new  to  my  eyes.  The 
party  who  went  up  the  mountain  have  returned,  excepting  one 
lady  and  some  gentlemen,  who  determined  to  pass  the  night  in  a 
little  hotel  there,  to  see  the  sun  rise.  All  were  much  fatigued, 
and  a  storm  of  wind  and  a  foggy  morning  disappointed  those  who 
had  adventured  an  uncomfortable  night. 

August  2L. — My  acquaintances  invited  me  to  join  a  party  of 
ten  in  an  open  char-a-banc  to  go  on  to  the  Profile  House,  about 
twenty-five  miles,  at  Franconia.  We  started  as  soon  as  Mrs. 
P— —  came  down  from  Mount  Washington,  about  three  o'clock. 
The  drive  was  beautiful,  just  our  Highlands  upon  rather  a  greater 
scale  as  to  forests  and  torrents ;  with  mountains  about  the  height 
of  those  around  Braemar.  Smoke  rose  in  all  directions  from  the 
burning  trees.  We  passed  close  to  one  of  considerable  size, 
which  was  on  fire  at  the  bottom,  with  flames  creeping  up  the 
trunk  and  peeping  out  of  holes.  It  was  dark  before  we  reached 
the  Profile  House,  an  hotel  built,  as  usual  in  this  country, 
upon  a  very  large  scale ;  the  saloon  or  drawing-room  I  should 
imagine  at  least  thirty-eight  feet  square,  and  the  dining-room 
sixty  feet  long.  There  are  probably  eighty  travellers  accom- 
modated here  at  this  moment.  Streams  of  visitors  usually  suc- 
ceed each  other  for  about  three  months ;  but  during  the  rest  of 
the  year  few  people  come  to  this  mountainous  district.  After 
breakfast  to-day,  our  party  set  off  in  the  ehar-d-bano  with  four 


FOREST   FIRES. 


47 


'  more  narro-w 
some  respects, 
er,  particularly 
irs.  The  race 
runs  through 
•  most  perfect ; 
fed  than  second 
walk  with  Mr. 
lifficulties,  and 
ants.  I  found 
Ipiphyte,  and  a 
on  the  rotten 
oay  eyes.  The 
excepting  one 
the  night  in  a 
nuch  fatigued, 
ited  those  who 

oin  a  party  of 
House,  about 
soon  as  Mrs. 
three  o'clock, 
ither  a  greater 
)ut  the  height 
tions  from  the 
iderable  size, 
eping  up  the 
re  we  reached 
this  country, 
torn  I  should 

dining-room 
ellers  aocom- 

usually  sue- 
;  the  rest  of 
itrict.  After 
no  with  four 


horses,  to  see  the  waterfalls  and  the  Valley  of  the  Flume ;  pass- 
ing by  the  mountain  Profile  and  lake.  A  legend  is  attached  to 
the  latter,  which  says,  that  all  who  rise  early  enough  may  see  the 
old  man  of  the  mountain  take  his  bath  in  the  lake.  The  scenery 
round  the  Flume  House  is  so  fine,  that  I  mean  to  remove  there, 
five  miles  from  hence,  to-morrow ;  and  I  shall  join  an  American 

acquaintance.  Miss  F ,  who  has  been  much  in  England,  and 

who  likes  drawing  and  rambling  as  much  as  I  do.  I  shall  be  the 
more  willing  to  exchange  my  quarters,  as  the  friends  I  have  trav- 
elled with  from  Lake  Winnipiseogee  return  to  their  homes  at 
Boston  to-m.orrow.  This  afternoon  we  rowed  upon  the  Echo 
Lake,  and  heard  all  its  reverberations  of  horns,  and  cannon,  and 
voices,  which  are  very  clear  and  distinct.  It  is  a  '  pond'  of  no 
great  size,  but  deep — ^very  deep.  Before  tea  I  walked  to  Profile 
Lake  to  finish  a  sketch,  and  look  for  flowers.  I  found  a  very 
sweet  and  pretty  yellow  Utricularia,  quite  new  to  me,  growing  at 
the  edge  of  the  water;  and  I  also  picked  a  copper-coloured 
cotton-grass  to-day,  near  the  Flume  House,  besides  a  beautiful 
little  creeping  plant  in  the  woods.  To-night,  the  forest  is  on  fire 
upon  a  mountain  just  above  this  house ;  the  sight  is  grand,  but 
rather  terrific.  These  fires  are  believed  to  arise  from  careless- 
ness, or,  perhaps,  occasionally  from  some  spirit  of  wanton  mis- 
chief They  can  only  be  extinguished  by  heavy  rain ;  and  now 
the  underwood  is  so  very  dry,  much  damage  may  be  done.  I 
suppose  the  flames  we  have  been  watching  may  be  at  two  miles 
distance;  but  if  the  wind  should  rise  and  drive  them  down 
towards  this  hotel,  I  should  be  alarmed  for  its  safety;  being 
erected  entirely  of  wood,  sparks  falling  upon  it  would  be  very 
dangerous.  For  some  days  past  we  have  observed  these  forest 
fires  in  many  directions.  Sometimes  they  are  intentional,  to 
make  clearings,  but  in  general  they  are  regretted ;  and  I  feel 
grieved  at  the  destruction  of  the  beautiful  trees  and  underwood 
which  thirty  years'  growth  cannot  replace. 

As  the  weather  continues  so  enjoyable  for  mountain  exercises, 
I  propose  to  remain  at  the  Flume  till  Monday  next;  then,  prob- 
ably, we  shall  take  the  railroad,  ten  miles  from  thence,  and  visit 


.   «/   ! 


48 


PEOFILB   H0U8B. 


!!i     i! 


1,1. 


Lake  George,  if  I  hear  that  Mr.  T is  there ;  or  else  I  may 

go  by  Montreal  to  Quebec,  putting  off  the  Falls  of  Ni  igara  until 
after  my  return,  as  I  am  told  that  brilliant  autumn  tints  will  add 
to  the  picturesque  effect,  and  if  possible  increase  the  splendour 
of  Niagara.  This  evening  a  German  gentleman  played  on  the 
piano  in  the  large  room,  with  the  usual  taste  and  musical  know- 
ledge of  his  country,  and  some  young  ladies  and  gentlemen 
waltzed  quietly  and  gracefully.  All  the  travellers  I  fall  in  with 
are  civil  and  obliging.  I  have  not  had  as  yet  the  least  reason  to 
complain  of  want  of  attention  from  either  master  or  servants. 
I  am  told  I  may  be  less  fortunate  as  we  travel  further  west  or 
south ;  but  hitherto  none  of  my  own  little  preparations  or  con- 
veniences against  travelling  difficulties  have  been  in  requisition ; 
the  only  thing  I  miss  is  good  household  bread.  There  seems  to 
be  no  such  article  in  use ;  nothing  but  new  soft  rolls  and  biscuits, 
and  buckwheat  cakes,  which  are  so  like  our  pancakes,  that  I 
mistook  them  for  something  of  that  kind.  So  much  for  eatables. 
As  to  drinkables,  I  have  hardly  observed  any  one  gentleman  or 
lady  take  any  other  beverage  than  iced-water,  milk,  or  tea.  It 
is  said  that  all  classes  of  men  make  great  use  of  brandy,  but  I 
have  not  seen  any  of  it  drunk ;  and  as  to  smoking,  it  is  not  more 
general  here  than  in  England.  It  is  not  made  half  as  disagree- 
able as  in  Germany. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


H,ij 


P.  S. — This  letter  will  be  conveyed  to  Boston  to-morrow 
morning.  I  have  not  any  time  to  read  over  what  I  have  written, 
therefore  repetitions  are  probable.  I  have  little  chance  of  hearing 
from  England  till  I  reach  Canada,  and  the  month  since  I  left  it 
appears  four  times  as  long,  from  having  already  seen  so  many 
new  faces  and  fresh  places.  Very  little  public  news  has  reached 
me,  and  I  feel  anxious  ah  ut  the  Baltic  fleet,  particularly  as  I 
hear  that  oases  of  cholera  have  occurred  on  board  the  St  Jean 
d'Acre, 


;  or  else  I  may 
of  Ni  tgara  until 
na  tints  will  add 
se  the  splendour 
m  played  on  the 
ad  musical  know- 
I  and  gentlemen 
iers  I  fall  in  with 
he  least  reason  to 
ster  or  servants. 

further  west  or 
parations  or  con- 
en  in  requisition ; 

There  seems  to 
rolls  and  biscuits, 
pancakes,  that  I 
nuch  for  eatables, 
me  gentleman  or 
milk,  or  tea.  It 
of  brandy,  but  I 
3g,  it  is  not  more 

half  as  disagsee- 

tnately, 

A.  M.  M. 

oston  to-morrow 
I  have  written, 
[hance  of  hearing 
since  I  left  it 
ly  seen  so  many 
iews  has  reached 
irticularly  as  I 
rd  the  St.  Jean 


LETTER  YI. 


PLEASANT      BAMBLES. 


Flttmb  HoirsB,  WHrra  Moithta: 
Haupsphikk,  U.  S.  Augtut 


Nsw) 


My  Dj^.ar  Friends, — 

I  came  here  yesterday  f  )m  the  Profile  House,  in  one  of  the 
usual  char-drbancs  ;  some  friends  went  the  other  way  on  their  re- 
turn home,  but  I  found  all  my  new  compagnons  de  voyage  obl'g- 
ing  and  agreeable.     As  the  distance  was  only  five  or  six  mllea,  I 
requested  to  be  left  to  sketch  rocks  and  a  waterfall  by  the  road- 
side, about  half  of  that  distance,  where  the  mountain-torrent  has 
worn  the  granite  into  a  singular  bowl.     After  trying  almost  fruit- 
lessly to  give  some  idea  of  the  place,  I  enjoyed  a  pleasant  walk 
through  the  still  and  tranquil  forest,  with  a  sense  of  the  most 
perfect  security.     No  fear  of  Indian  tomahawk,  or  wild  or  uncivil 
or  riotous  human  beings;  not  a  reptile  of  any  kind  to  prevent  me 
from  going  into  the  bush  and  bog  after  flowers ;  even  bears  are 
;  now  hardly  ever  seen  in  these  woods,  though  it  is  said  that  one 
I  has  made  its  way  to  a  patch  of  com  near  this  house.     I  think 
I  there  is  no  positive  proof  that  some  tamer  animal  was  not  the 

marauder.     "When  I  reached  this  hotel,  I  found  R comfort- 

lably  settled,  and  my  things  in  a  pleasant  room  with  a  verandah, 
llooking  upon  an  extensive  view  on  two  sides.  I  have  both  win- 
fdows  wide  open  all  night,  without  feeling  any  draught,  though  I 
islcep  between  them ;  and  yet  I  have  felt  no  heat  so  oppressive  as 
Ithat  of  a  warm  summer's  day  in  England. 

August  26. — Yesterday,  I  much  enjoyed  the  fine  scenery.    A 
8 


I       ' 


60 


*THE   FLUME.' 


p   m 


ii-iii 


lady  who  has  passed  some  time  in  England  went  out  to  draw  with 

me ;  and  after  dinner,  Dr. and  Mrs.  B ,  both  kind  and 

pleasant  people,  accompanied  us  in  another  ramble.  What  is  called 
*  the  Flume  '  is  very  fine ;  and  the  water  being  so  low,  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  walking  up  the  bed  of  the  torrent.  Enormous  tables 
of  granite  rock,  apparently  without  a  flaw  for  twenty  yards  together, 
bed  the  stream  in  an  easy  ascent  to  a  rocky  gorge,  where  an  im- 
mense boulder,  almost  circular,  hangs  suspended  overhead,  jammed 
in  between  two  cliffs.  How  fine  it  must  be,  when  the  water  roara 
down  this  chasm !  though  a  drought  now  enables  us  to  see  the  chan- 
nel more  completely ;  and  at  another  point  called  the  Dell,  a  steep 
descent  brings  one  down  to  a  pool  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  depth, 
clear  as  crystal ;  here,  a  rude  boat  has  been  established  by  an  old 
man  and  his  wife,  with  their  son;  for  this  little  emerald-coloured 
mountain  '  tarn '  is  of  sufficient  size  to  paddle  about  in  it. 

The  larger  drawing-room  in  this  hotel,  is  fitted  up  with  every 
comfort,  and  there  is  an  excellent  piano.  The  evening  party  was 
large,  perhaps  from  forty  to  fifty ;  an  elephant  well  manufactured 
out  of  two  bipeds  walked  in  to  amuse  the  children ;  one  of  the  house- 
attendants  played  quadrilles  very  fairly  on  the  violin;  two  sets  were 
made  up  for  dancing;  some  young  ladies  also  sang  in  tune  and 
very  sweetly  together.  Attached  to  both  this  house  and  the  Notch, 
there  are  bowling-alleys  under  cover,  where  ladies  and  gentlemen 
can  take  exercise  and  amusement  in  wet  weather.  On  the  whole,  I 
doubt  whether  in  England  as  large  and  heterogeneous  a  society  ac- 
cidentally gathered  together,  would  conduct  itself  with  so  much 
good  humour  and  propriety  as  that  which  I  find  here.  All  converse 
without  introduction,  yet  I  have  seen  nothing  like  forwardness  or 
vulgarity  of  manner :  though  there  is  a  degree  of  restraint  and 
stiffness,  I  find  myself  much  more  at  home  than  I  should  be  in 
any  hotel,  either  on  the  Continent  of  Europe  or  in  the  British 
Isles — it  is  more  like  the  freedom  of  a  very  large  country-house 
in  England.  This  peculiarity  of  American  manners  I  have  never 
heard  mentioned — and  it  is  certainly  a  striking  one.  I  hear  the 
gong  going  its  rounds  to  awaken  the  sleeping,  as  we  breakfast  at 
l^eu  o'clock,  and  at  £^  early  as  six  a  gong  is  sounded ;   the  same 


■^  I 


THE   WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


51 


custom  prevailed  at  the  Profile  House,  which  belongs  to  the  person 
who  has  this  hotel  also.  1  go  to  bed  at  nine  or  soon  after,  and 
get  up  with  the  light. 

August  26. — We  had  rain  yesterday,  the  first  which  has  fall- 
en in  this  mountain  region  for  three  months ;  and  it  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  how  a  wet  day  is  got  through  here.     Aftei 
breakfast,  there  was,  a  great  deal  of  agreeable  music,  to  which  the 
whole  company  listened  with  enjoyment;   two  or  three  young 
ladies  and  one  gentleman  sang  duets  and  trios  and  lively  songs 
very  well.     Afterwards,  a  large   party  adjourned  to  the  house 
I  appropriated  to  bowling :  there  are  three  alleys,  and  slides  for 
i  the  return  of  balls ;  the  game  was  played  with  sides :  it  is  a  good 
!  exercise.     After  joining  in  one  game,  I  left  them,  the  weather 
j  having  rather  improved,  and  went  out  with  my  umbrella  and 
sketch-book, — as  I  was  anxious  to  see  a  view  overlooking  the 
house.     I  got  drenched,  but  succeeded  in  my  wishes,  and  after 
[dressing,  I  went  down  stairs  to  a  comfortable  wood-fire  in  one  of 
the  smaller  parlour?.     Before  tea  there  was  some  needlework 
[going  on,  a  whist-tai  ^o  (but  no  one  plays  for  money  here),  and  a 
young  lady  playou  nursery  songs  at  the  piano,  six  little  children 
belonging  to  diftereiiit  visitors  joining  their  voices  in  the  choruses, 
one  as  young  a>  four,  but  all  were  in  tune,  and  seemed  to  enjoy 
it  much.     After  tea,  there  was  again  music  and  dancing,  and  I 
[played  a  rubber  of  whist  with  two  gentlemen  and  a  lady  till  bed- 
[time.     One  of  the  gentlemen  had  lent  me  a  Boston  paper  contain- 
ing the  last  news  from  Europe,  by  which  it  appears  that  the  Island 
|of  Aland  and  the  Crimea  are  both  under  attack.     Some  of  the 
jeople  here  are  Southerners,  and  two  families  have  black  nurses. 
These  mountains  attract  visitors  from  all  parts  of  the  Union, 
md  I  have  no  doubt  the  summer  meetings — either  here,  at  New- 
)ort,  Nahant,  Saratoga,  or  the  Virginia  Springs — tend  much  to 
)romote  acquaintanceship  and  good  feeling  among  the  different 
States,  which  vary  so  much  in  their  internal  laws  and  regulations, 
figamy  is  severely  punished   in  nearly  all,  while  polygamy  has 
)een  hitherto   not  only  permitted  but  encouraged   among  tlje 
[ormons.     Yet  I  am  told  that  the  Mormon  delegate  to  Congress 


i      r. 


1:1    ' 


52 


THE  MORMONS. 


is  thought  a  sensible  and  intelligent  man,  though  he  has  seven 
wives !  but  it  seems  to  be  hoped  that  much  time  will  not  elapse 
before  the  immorality  and  absurdities  introduced  by  Smith  and 
Young,  and  hitherto  enforced  upon  their  deluded  followers,  will 
be  cast  off.  At  present  their  polity  is  a  kind  of  spiritual  despot- 
ism ;  yet  it  is  generally  admitted  that  their  community  is  orderly 
and  very  industrious ;  though  as  no  man  can  leave  his  property 
to  his  children  or  relations,  it  falls  to  the  church  upon  his  death, 
and  the  accumulation  of  such  riches  must  strengthen  the  power 
of  the  priestly  Mormons,  and  enable  them  to  keep  their  people  in 
subjection  for  a  considerable  time  to  come.  I  do  not  yet  under* 
stand  how  this  accumulation  of  property  is  to  be  applied. 

August  27. — There  is  a  chapel  here,  which  is  used  if  any 
clergyman  who  is  travelling  can  do  duty ;  but  that  not  being  the 
case  to-day,  service  was  not  read.  No  church  is  within  an  acces- 
sible number  of  miles.  After  dinner,  two  or  three  families,  con- 
sisting of  seventeen  individuals,  went  away  for  the  purpose  of 
sleeping  to-night  at  Plymouth,  twenty-five  miles  distant,  to  catch 
a  railroad  there  early  to-morrow,  or,  as  it  is  here  expressed,  *  to 
meet  the  cars.'  Nearly  all  the  travellers  and  inmates  gathered 
at  the  door  to  see  the  party  off,  and  to  wish  them  good-bye, 
although  many  had  met  here  for  the  first  time  in  their  lives. 
Greater  cordiality  and  kindness  of  feeling  was  evinced  on  this 
occasion  than  I  ever  saw  before  among  people  so  new  to  each 
other.  But  I  am  told  that  in  hotels  in  and  near  great  towns, 
there  is  little  of  that  frankness  and  cordiality  which  have  so 
pleasingly  impressed  me  at  the  White  Mountains. 

The  weather  was  again  fine  to-day,  and  in  the  afternoon  I 
walked  alone  up  the  Flume.  It  is  the  bed  of  a  torrent  which 
comes  down  a  very  picturesque  defile :  now,  while  the  water  is 
low,  one  can  walk  along  the  wide,  smooth,  granite  tabular  rocks, 
which  during  the  winter  are  covered  by  the  foaming  waters.  I 
never  saw  such  huge  masses  of  granite  before :  it  is  very  white 
and  large  grained ;  and  as  I  saw  no  mica,  I  suppose  it  may  be  si* 
cnite.  When  I  returned  home,  some  of  the  people  had  got  what 
they  called  a  hedgehog,  just  caught  in  the  woods ;  I  did  not  see 


WELLS  RIVER. 


63 


ie  liad  goi)  «"«»• 
I  did  not  Bee 


It  very  near,  but  as  it  was  the  size  of  a  small  pig,  I  concluded  it 
must  Lave  been  some  species  of  porcupine. 

August  28. — This  morning  Miss  F and  I  got  to  the  top 

of  Femmewhasset,  a  mountain  above  this  house,  from  which  there 
is  a  charming  view  up  and  down  the  valley  of  the  Saca.  The 
ascent  was  gradual  and  easy,  but  we  did  not  reach  the  Hotel 
again  till  long  after  dinner-time ;  and  though  we  met  a  party  going 
up  on  horseback,  we  did  not  regret  having  trusted  to  our  own  feet, 
which  is  much  pleasanter  than  riding,  and  enables  one  to  look* 
after  plants,  besides  which,  I  feel  more  safe,  and  by  sitting  down 
frequently  to  rest,  the  fatigue  is  not  very  much  greater  than  on 
horseback.  After  our  return,  the  weather  cleared  sufficiently  for 
me  to  see  an  extensive  view  of  the  valley  from  my  window,  which 
has  hitherto  been  hid  by  smoke  and  clouds ;  and  I  made  a  sketch 
from  the  verandah.      The  coach  brought  many  more  visitors, 

among  them  a  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C ,  from  the  South,  who  will  go 

on  with  me  to-morrow  as  far  as  Plymouth,  and  I  am  by  and  by 
to  try  if  I  can  visit  them  at  Appalachicola,  in  Florida. 

August  29. — I  proceed  this  morning  after  breakfast,  at  eight 
o'clock,  for  Burlington,  going  round  by  Plymouth  instead  of 
Lyttleton,  to  avoid  returning  ten  miles  by  the  same  route  which 
brought  me  here ;  and  I  thus  see  the  Saco  valley,  wliich  I  am  told 
is  beautiful. 

August  30. —  Wells  River ^  New  Hampshire. — This  is  so 
pretty  a  place,  that  I  determined  to  stop  here  at  three  o'clock 
yesterday,  and  go  on  to-morrow  by  the  eleven  o'clock  cars,  which 
will  reach  Burlington  by  five.  I  have  a  letter  to  the  Bishop  of 
Vermont,  who  lives  within  a  mile  or  two  of  that  place ;  it  is  on 
Lake  Champlain.  The  weather  is  again  perfect.  I  spent  all  yes- 
terday evening  walking  about  and  sketching.  The  people  here 
vie  with  one  another  in  kindness  and  civility,  yet  I  have  been 
troubled  with  nothing  unpleasantly  obtrusive.  From  the  Flume 
House  we  came  hither  in  a  coach,  with  six  active  horses  well 
driven  in  hand.  It  carried  eighteen  passengers,  nine  inside  and 
nine  outside.  The  road,  through  deep  sand,  runs  nearly  the  whole 
Way  by  the  Biver  Saoo,  the  same  we  passed  at  Conway.     I  am 


54 


BURLINGTON. 


told  it  flows  into  the  sea  somewhere  near  Portland,  and  that  this 
valley  is  not  that  of  Merrimac,  but  Saco.  The  Merrimac  riyer  is 
the  outpouring  of  Lake  Winnipiseogee.  We  had  observed  it 
flowing  by  Dover,  &c.,  as  we  came  from  Boston;  it  is  a  handsome 

river.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  C ,  from  the  South,  and  six  other  ladies, 

all  agreeable  people,  were  my  companions  in  the  coach  to  Ply- 
mouth.    We  dined  there;  they  took  the  cars  for  Boston,  and 

K and  I  for  this  place.     A  smaller  and  a  larger  river  unite 

*here;  the  Indian  name  of  one  is  Ammonoosuc.  I  hope  I  may 
find  out  the  translation  of  it,  for  these  Indian  names  have  always 
some  beautiful  meaning.  The  two  railroad  stations  are  almost 
close  together :  one  is  called  Woodsville,  and  another  Wells  River 
d^pJi — the  word  used  in  America.  The  hills  around,  well 
wooded,  but  with  openings  and  rocks  enough  to  be  picturesque, 
are  tossed  about  in  every  direction.  All  this  country  is  called 
granitic  on  Marcou's  geological  map ;  but  we  passed  through  a 
cutting  yesterday  which  looked  more  like  something  Silurian ;  it 
might  have  been  a  mica  schist  of  some  kind.  The  breakfast  hour 
here  is  half-past  six ;  and  before  I  start  for  Burlington  by  the 
eleven  o'clock  cars,  Mr.  Wild,  the  master  of  this  Wells  House 
Hotel  (he  was  born  and  brought  up  in  the  White  Mountains,  be- 
tween the  Notch  and  Profile  Houses),  ofiers  to  show  me  the  rap- 
ids of  the  Connecticut  River. 

August  31. — Burlingion. — I  had  a  pleasant,  though  hot  and 
dusty  journey  here  yesterday.  Notwithstanding  the  frequent 
changing  of  cars,  which  occurs  sometimes  four  or  five  times  in  a 
distance  of  about  120  miles,  I  prefer  the  American  mode  of  trav- 
elling in  long  cars,  to  that  upon  our  railroads.  I  have  as  yet 
seen  no  great  carelessness,  except  that  of  crossing  the  roads  with 
no  other  warning  than  large  boards  overhead,  on  each  side  with 
a  notice  to  *  Look  out  for  the  Engine,'  in  large  letters — (about 
Boston  *  while  the  bell  rings '  is  added) ;  and  it  is  the  duty  of  the 
fireman,  or  the  conductor,  before  and  after  passing  every  cross- 
way,  to  ring  a  large  bell,  which  swings  above  his  head ;  but  from 
Plymouth  here,  I  have  heard  none  of  these  bells.  The  loag  cars, 
which  on  an  average  carry  sixty  each,  are  comfortable;  you  may 


CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


65 


turn  two  seats  so  as  to  face  each  other ;  and  tnough  they  are  in- 
tended to  accommodate  two  or  three  each,  R-  —  and  I,  by  tak- 
ing possession  in  time,  have  always  been  left  to  ourselves ;  and 
even  if  you  have  a  dirty  or  disagreeable  neighbour,  it  is  not  half 
BO  bad  at  any  time  as  the  Rhine  steam-boats — for  no  smoking  is 
allowed  in  these  cars.  They  are  very  airy,  and  have  comfortable 
seats.  There  is  a  sense  of  security,  too,  in  the  greater  width  and 
solidity,  and  the  power  of  ready  communication  with  every  part 
of  the  train.  I  may  change  my  opinion,  but  hitherto  I  have 
found  travelling  in  the  American  cars  less  fatiguing  than  in  our 
railroad  carriages. 

I  gained  some  information  from  Mr.  Wild,  in  our  walk  to  the 

f ; .    -^  before  leaving  Wells  River.     R and  I  set  off  with  him 

t:.;  u..  naif-past  nine  o'clock.  When  we  got  to  the  descent  through 
thick  forest  down  to  the  river,  she  was  obliged  to  give  ip  the 
attempt,  haviug  got  some  flowers  for  me,  and  too  much  in  her 
hands  for  the  scrambling  necessary.  Between  the  drought  and 
the  fir-choppings,  it  was  so  slippery  that  even  Mr.  Wild  fell  two 
or  three  times  in  giving  me  assistance ;  and  I  was  often  obliged 
to  take  to  my  hands  and  knees,  from  not  being  able  to  keep  upon 
my  feet ;  however,  I  got  down  to  the  edge  of  the  river.  The 
Connecticut  widens  out  here,  looking  almost  like  a  lake,  and  then 
rushes  through  such  a  narrow  gorge  between  rocks,  that  an  active 
hunter  might  leap  his  horse  from  one  side  to  the  other.  In 
winter,  it  must  be  a  fine  rush ;  at  present,  the  river  is  so  low  that 
it  can  get  through  the  passage  quietly  enough.  I  find  that  three 
rivers  meet  at  this  point.  I  thought  there  were  only  two.  I 
suppose,  therefore,  '  Three  Rivers,'  which  I  found  marked  upon  a 
map  I  have,  is  the  right  name  of  the  place. 

We  returned  only  just  in  time  for  the  eleven  o'clock  train ; 
and  as  there  is  ao  other  for  Burlington,  to  have  missed  this  one 
would  have  been  inconvenient.  I  never  had  such  a  beautiful  drive 
as  that  through  the  whole  country  to  Lake  Champlain.  As  far 
as  Wliite  River  junction,  it  follov,'S  the  Connecticut  for  fifty  miles, 
and  then  the  White  River.  The  scenery  may  be  compared  alter- 
nately to  that  of  the  Tay,  the  Tweed,  and  the  Tamar,  but  still 


i   >* 


11   '.; 


i! 


f 


:  !' 


fill 


f     !  ; 


n      t  ' 

i'  II  :  > 

I      ■Silliji 


'!  r 


,1111 


CO 


KATTtESNAKES. 


finer  than  all ;  with  gardens,  ornamental  trees,  relieved  by  maples 
iuo\r  getting  their  scarlet  liveries,  foregrounds  of  maize  and 
brilliant  orange  pumpkins,  and  every  now  and  then  a  column  of 
white  smoke  rising  from  the  forest  fires.  These  Vermont  Moun- 
tains are  not  higher  than  those  around  Blair  and  Invercauld^  so 
that  they  never  rise  into  the  gigantic  peaks  of  the  Swiss  AlpB 
but  they  are  very  lovely. 

On  reaching  Burlington,  though  nearly  dark,  the  master  of 
the  hotel  provided  me  with  a  safe  littlo  carriage  to  drive  out  to 
the  Bishop  of  Vermont's,  about  two  miles'  distance.  I  found 
him  with  his  family,  and  received  an  obliging  invitation  to  spend 
the  next  day  with  them.  There  is  not  much  to  be  seen  at  Bur- 
lington.  I  have  heard  of  its  beauty,  but,  with  the  exception  of 
the  lake,  it  seems  a  sandy,  uninteresting  place, — the  lake  itself 
looking  like  a  sea ;  and  it  would  take  seven  or  eight  hours  to 
steam  rapidly  down  it.  I  find  myself  in  a  comfortable,  large 
hotel,  well  provided  in  all  respects.    At  ten  o'clock,  I  walked  with 

B. out  to  the  Bishop's.     I  did  not  see  a  great  many  flowers 

on  our  way,  owing  to  the  vegetation  being  so  burned  up ;  but  I 
found  fine  trees  of  the  black  oak,  covered  with  acorns  with  large 
bumpy  cups :  the  '  pigeon  grass '  (so  called  here),  and  a  pretty 
little  vetch.  I  made  a  sketch  of  the  lake,  and  of  Burlington, 
from  the  Bishop's  verandah — a  fine  eagle  soaring  about  as  an 
accessory  to  the  view ;  and,  after  au  early  dinner,  we  walked 
down  to  a  beautiful  little  rocky  bathing  bay,  where  the  children 
disport  themselves  in  the  water  without  the  least  fear  or  dai^ger. 
Growing  among  sand  and  rocks,  a  pretty  Iris  in  seed.  Whether 
unknown  in  England  or  not,  I  cannot  tell ;  but  in  going  through  a 
rooky  copse,  I  gathered  a  fern,  and  several  things  new  to  my  eyes ; 
and  on  the  shore  I  picked  up  some  fresh-water  shells.  I  under* 
stand  there  are  rattlesnakes  in  one  or  two  spots  in  this  neighbour* 
hood,  but  it  seems  they  have  so  large  a  bump  of  *  locality,'  that 
they  remain  as  constant  to  particular  spots  as  flowers  to  their 
habitats.  So  that,  unless  one  goes  to  visit  them,  there  is  no 
danger  of  making  their  acquaintance;  therefore  I  shall  always 
inquire  their  whereabouts.  I  did  not  take  my  leave  till  near 
eight  o'clock  at  night 


QCEBEC. 


57 


I  shall  always 
leave  till  near 


September  2. — Quebec,  Spencer  Wood. — As  I  left  Burlington 
the  steamer,  to  take  the  cars  at  Roches  Point,  by  four  o'clock 
[in  the  morning,  arrived  at  Montreal  by  eleven,  and  left  for  Que- 
360  at  seven  in  the  evening,  I  had  no  time  for  writing,  yesterday. 

[Pr.  L ,  the  professor  and  a  clergyman,  was  so  obliging  as  to 

[take  me  a  pleasant  drive  round  the  heights,  from  whence  we  had 
[a  fine  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  the  neighbourhood. 
[I  visited  the  Roman  Catholic  church  and  the  Museum,  where  I 
saw  some  stuffed  specimens  of  the  wild  beasts  which  are  now 
becoming  extinct  in  the  woods  of  this  part  of  Canada.  I  saw 
[also  a  specimen  of  a  small  owl  which  is  peculiar  to  these  parts. 

Before  seven  o'clock  we  went  on  board  the  steamer,  which 
was  very  full  of  passengers  for  Quebec.     Among  them  a  party  of 
squaws  and  Indian  boys  from  some  tract  bordering  upon  this  great 
river :  they  had  a  large  assortment  of  neat  and  showy  handiworks 
in  beads  for  sale — ^gentlemen's  travelling  caps,  bags,  slippers,  and 
watch-cases,  and  seemed  to  be  very  shrewd  and  cautious  ixi  carry- 
ling  on  their  bargains,  though  I  could  noi;  make  them  understand 
[either  French  or  English.     I  do  not  know  when  they  ^absqvatu- 
llated '  (to  use  a  Far  West  expression),  but  as  we  stopped  several 
[times  during  the  night,  and  I  did  not  see  them  afterwards,  I  sup- 
Ipose  they  landed  somewhere.     We  did  not  undress.     As  some 
individuals  of  our  large  party  in  the  ladies'  cabin  were  talking  or 
j  moving  about  at  all  times  during  the  night,  we  could  only  get 
[snatches  of  sleep  in  our  berths ;  and  I  thought  this  night's  voy- 
lage  so  tiresome  and  tedious,  that  with  the  first  dawn  of  light  I 
[went  on  deck ;  but  owing  to  the  great  width  of  the  river,  and  the 
iBteamer  keeping  in  mid-channel,  we  were  not  close  enough  to  either 
phore  to  make  her  progress  interesting.     I  think  the  St.  La"r- 
[rence  is  nearly  as  wide  as  UUswater  is  long,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
realize  that  we  are  traversing  a  river  instead  of  crossing  a  lake, 
saw  very  little  shipping  till  we  arrived  at  Quebec — a  few  lum- 
)er  schooners,  at  anchor  here  and  there,  but  nothing  sailing;  very 
liiferent  this  from  the  liveliijess  of  the  sea  around  Beverley  and 
Jalem. 

The  population  of  Quebec  and  MontreaL  upon  a  first  inipeo* 


Ni  I  iji 

Mi 


!l 


.ii'i 


111, 


6B 


SPENCER    WOOD. 


tion,  dofts  not  look  so  well-to-do,  and  thriviDg  as  that  of  Boston 
and  some  other  American  cities ;  this  may  be  partly  owing  to  the 
prevalence  of  Boman  Catholics  here,  just  as  one  finds  it  in  Eu- 
rope. Where  that  persuasion  has  the  ascendency,  the  people  are 
either  stationary  or  retrograde ;  and  in  Quebec,  there  are  more 
churches  and  more  ueggars  than  in  any  other  place  I  have  yet 
seen  on  this  side  the  Atlantic.  Indeed,  I  never  met^a  beggar  in 
Boston — ^not  even  among  the  Irish ;  and  ladies  have  told  me  they 
could  not  find  a  poor  family  on  whom  to  exercise  their  benevo- 
lent feelings.  We  arrived  at  this  place  by  breakfast  time :  it 
has  a  thoroughly  English  appearance,  with  a  splendid  view  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  from  the  windows. 

Lord  Elgin  tells  me  this  is  the  day  for  the  letters  to  go,  so  I 
must  conclude  hastily ;  and,  as  there  is  rain,  I  shall  probably  do 
little  more  to-day  than  stay  in-doors  and  rest  myself. 

Yours  afi'ectionately, 

A.  M.  M 


that  of  Boston 
tly  owing  to  the 
)  finds  it  in  Eu- 
,  the  people  are 
there  are  more 
lace  I  have  yot 
metja  beggar  in 
ve  told  me  they 
e  their  benevo- 
akfast  time:  it 
idid  view  of  the 

iters  to  go,  so  I 
all  probablj  do 
jlf. 

ately, 
A.  M.  M 


LETTEK  Vn. 


QTJEB  EC. 


Bpenoer  Wood,  Qtr/CBEC,  I 
Sept.  2, 1864.  } 

My  Dear  Friends, 

I  suspect  that  the  end  of  the  letter  which  I  sent  oif  yester« 
day,  just  after  my  arrival,  was  dated  the  3d  instead  of  the  1st : 
my  notion?  about  days  and  dates  are  rather  confused,  fro  Ji  having 
been  very  little  in  bed  since  Wednesday  night.  I  fi'^a  now  that 
my  letter  written  a  week  ago  from  Wells  llivcr,  to  fix  the  day  of 
my  coming  here,  never  reached  Lord  Elgin  :  the  American  post- 
office  does  not  appear  to  be  as  exact  or  as  well-regulated  as  ours. 
I  hope  you  receive  all  my  packets  ?  I  think  this  will  be  the  fifth 
or  sixth  letter  I  have  sent  off  I  generally  write  about  one  a 
fortnight — but  not  a  line  from  you  yet,  or  from  any  one  in  Eng- 
land, excepting  a  letter  I  have  g'>i  from  Mr.  S ,  dated  August 

2nd ;  but  despatches  from  home  a:'e  expected  to-day,  and  I  hope 
to  get  something.  This  morning,  at  seven  o'clock,  it  is  still  thick 
and  rainy — I  cannot  even  see  the  St.  liawrencc  from  my  window ; 
and  all  day  yesterday  we  had  a  large  coal  fire.  September  is  con- 
sidered the  last  of  the  summer  months  in  Canada ;  and  with  the 
leaves  still  green,  the  weather  looks  and  feels,  at  present,  very 
like  a  mild  November  in  England, 

This  is  a  large  house,  with  a  good  conservatory,  and  handsome 
reception-rooms,  though  they  are  considered  low  for  their  size 


«0 


A   OOHPASISOir. 


I   ■«!:• 


■kl'  I 


The  fields  and  turf  look  as  green  as  in  England — the  first  bit  of 
fresh-looking  grass  I  have  seen  these  three  weeks.  At  Montreal 
there  was  not  the  \ec6t  appearance  of  verdure,  and  very  few  trees, 
even  immediately  about  the  town,  though  the  villa  ^  and  the  hills 
are  well  wooded.  I  found  that  place  prettier  than  I  expected ; 
but  it  must  be  an  uninteresting  residence,  a*;  tVere  appears  to  be 
but  one  drive  around  the  hill  at  the  back.  A  bridge  on  the  tubu- 
lar principle,  which  will  be  the  largest  in  the  world,  is  begun ;  it 
is  to  unite  the  town  with  the  railroad  over  the  St.  Lawrence ;  I 
was  told  that  1600  workmen  are  already  employed  in  its  construc- 
tion. It  is  the  undertaking  of  an  English  company,  and  may  vie 
with  our  Crystal  Palace  in  the  enterprise  and  skill  it  will  call 
forth. 

Lord  Elgin  is  much  occupied  just  now  by  the  opening  of  the 
new  Canadian  Parliament,  on  the  6th ;  and  of  course  the  party 
spirit,  and  agitation,  and  jealousy  which  the  reform  and  enlarge- 
ment of  that  body  have  excited  is  unbounded.  Every  one  wants 
to  do  and  to  be  everything ;  and  though  to  an  impartial  stranger 
it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  comprehend  what  these  people  would  be 
at,  yet  it  is  interesting  to  observe  the  eflfort"  - '  a  young  nation  to 
make  use  of  a  newly  acquired  power.  It  resembles  the  first 
attempts  of  an  infant  to  exercise  its  legs — eager,  awkward,  and 
almost  alarming,  though  necessary  and  salutary  to  gain  habit, 
future  strength,  and  experience ;  but  as  patience  and  temper  are 
required  from  a  good  nurse  when  her  child  begins  to  walk  alone ; 
so  even  the  calmness  and  placability  of  Lord  Elgin  is  likely  to  be 
severely  tried  by  his  wayward  children  here — they  may  even 
quarrel  with  their  own  bread-and-butter  to  begin  with. 

Sept  3. — Monday. — I  had  a  day  of  repose  yesterday.  The 
gentlemen  went  oflf  early  to  their  official  duties,  and  I  was  very 
glad  to  rest  myself,  and  gather  up  my  thoughts  a  little.  We 
dined  at  seven,  and  I  went  early  to  bed.  This  morning  an  Eng- 
lish mail  arrived,  and  wo  got  letters.  Cholera  seems  worse  in 
England  than  I  had  any  idea  of;  that  complaint  has  abated  here. 
In  the  afterroon,  Lord  Elgin  drove  me  in  his  phaeton  to  the 
"athedral  at  Quebec — a  large  respectable  buildivg,  with  a  good 


■» 


QUEBEC. 


ei 


bhe  first  bit  of 
At  Montreal 
very  few  trees, 
°  and  the  hills 
m  I  expected ; 
appears  to  be 
;e  on  the  tubu- 
i,  is  begun ;  it 
.  Lawrence ;  I 
n  its  construc- 
jT,  and  may  vie 
dll  it  will  call 

Dpening  of  the 

irse  the  party 

n  and  enlarge- 

reiy  one  wants 

irtial  stranger 

sople  would  be 

)ung  nation  to 

ibles  the  first 

awkward,  and 

0  gain  habit, 

id  temper  are 

3  walk  alone ; 

is  likely  to  be 

ey  may  even 

h. 

|terday.     The 
[d  I  was  very 
little.     We 
ing  an  Eiig- 
lems  worse  in 
abated  here, 
'acton  to  tile 
with  a  good 


'« 


"* 


organ,  remarkably  well  played,  and  the  singing  led  by  the  pleas- 
ing voices  of  young  Quebec  ladiefn  and  gentlemen.  After  church 
we  walked  on  the  platform  overlooking  the  St.  Lawrence,  where 
there  is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  view.     Before  going  home  we 

called  to  inquire  after  a  sick  young  lady  at  Sir  H.  C 's,  and 

saw  another  fine  view  of  Quebec,  with  its  mountains  and  river ;  wfc 
walked  back  from  thence  two  miles  to  Sriencer  Wood.  The  Sun- 
day amusement  of  young  men  here  seems  to  be  drivii  t;  about 
little  gigs,  or  wagons  as  they  are  called,  in  the  most  reckless  and 
furious  way  possible ;  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  they  would  knock 
down  even  their  Governor-General  without  the  least  compunction, 
if  he  happened  to  be  in  their  way  1 

September  6. — I  did  not  write  yesterday,  In  the  morning 
I  was  absorbed  by  a  file  of  English  newspapers  down  to  the 
eighteenth  of  last  month.  Alas!  social  questions  seem  to  be 
still  made  of  secondary  importance  by  the  war.  Not  a  word 
about  the  erring  children,  so  I  conclude  nothing  has  been  done 
to  save  them  from  deeper  crime.  A  young  man  of  twenty,  at 
Dartmoor,  has  made  a  most  furious  and  savage  attempt  on 
the  life  of  one  of  the  keepers.  Ten  years  ago  that  man  was  a 
child — who  but  the  Parent  State  is  to  blame  that  he  is  now  a 
murderer  T 

September  6. — In  the  afternoon  of  yesterday,  I  spent  three 
hours  botanizing.  There  are  some  interesting  plants  in  a  wood 
not  far  distant,  particularly  some  ferns,  worth  transplanting  into 
our  English  gardens.  The  Governor-General  opened  the  Parlia- 
ment to-day ;  but  as  he  leaves  them  to  choose  their  Speaker,  pre- 
paratory to  his  speech  being  delivered  to-morrow,  I  put  off  going 
till  then.  I  went  to  call  upon  a  lady  to  whom  I  had  a  letter  of 
introduction :  she  lives  for  the  present  (while  out  of  town)  at  a 
cottage  within  a  walk  of  this  place,  where  I  found  a  garden  with 
some  interesting  plants  of  this  country,  and  one  of  the  most  ven- 
erable-looking paper  birch  trees  I  have  yet  seen,  for  they  have 
generally  been  straight  and  of  no  great  size ;  this  has  many  arms 
branching  to  the  ground.  Mrs.  M- told  me  that  only  yester- 
day a  humming-bird  came  to  the  creeuer  near  her  window.     1 


A   PARADOX. 


^3 


iihttli 


did  not  know  they  were  found  so  far  north ;  and  I  have  not  yet 
been  so  fortunate  as  to  see  one. 

A  Mr.  Sicotte  has  been  elected  Speaker,  upon  the  principle 
(as  far  as  I  can  understand  it)  by  which  the  Americans  most 
usually  elect  their  Presidents.  Neither  party  being  able  to 
secure  the  election  of  their  own  man,  they  unite  in  votiug  for  an 
individual  not  popular  with  either ;  so  that  in  practice  a  popular 
election  makes  an  unpopular  choice — what  a  paradox  !  Each  in- 
dividual voter  saying  to  himsf^lf,  '  If  I  am  not  to  have  my  own 
man,  no  one  else  shall  have  his  man ; '  and  so  nobody^s  man  is 
the  man  chosen — is  not  this  an  odd  practice  ?  A  very  stormy 
night — thunder  and  lightning,  and  rain — very  cold,  too.  How 
lucky  we  have  been  that  the  bad  weather  has  kept  off  till  now, 
when,, in  a  comfortable  house  with  a  bright  fire,  we  can  rest ;  and, 
enjoying  the  retrospect  of  past  sunshine,  look  forward  to  an  In- 
dian summer  for  Niagara. 

September  7. — Another  cold  and  gloomy-looking  morning,  so 
I  wrote  letters,  hoping  for  sunshine  by  three  o'clock,  when  we 
were  to  go  to  Quebec  to  hear  the  Governor-General  make  his 
speech  to  the  Canadian  Parliament.     The  weather  cleared  up  in 

the  middle  of  the  day  •  Captain  H drove  me  into  the  town, 

and  Colonel  I pkced  me  with  Mrs.  and  Miss  I in  the 

gallery  of  the  concert-room,  where  the  Canadian  Parliament  has 
assembled  since  their  own  houses  were  burned.  The  whole  place 
was  crammed,  and  in  the  gallery  were  nearly  as  many  ladies  as 
gentlemen ;  the  assembly  showing  the  most  breathless  interest. 
Behind  the  throne  there  is  a  reporters'  gallery ;  before  it  a  table 
and  chairs  for  judges,  of  whom  Mr.  Bowen  is  the  oldest  in  the 
Queen's  dominions.  On  each  side  were  rows  of  double  desks, 
covered  with  crimson,  two  members  sitting  at  each ;  and  as  they 
choose  their  own  seats,  and  retain  them,  a  man  can  have  his  par- 
ticular friend  uy  him  during  the  session — an  advantage,  particu- 
larly in  this  country.  The  ceremony  is  much  like  that  in  Eng- 
land. Guns  are  fired  when  the  Governor  arrives.  He  read  the 
speech  well  and  most  distinctly,  first  in  Eiiglish,  and  then  in 
French,  the  House  of  Deputies  standing  at  the  Bar.     I  thought 


mi 


W     .    i'l 


QUEBEC. 


83 


1 1  have  not  yet 

m  the  principle 
A.mericans  most 
being  able  to 
in  voting  for  an 
actice  a  popular 
idox !  Each  in- 
3  have  my  own 
Dobody^s  man  is 
A  very  stormy 
sold,  too.  How 
3pt  off  till  now, 
e  can  rest ;  and, 
rward  to  an  In- 

:ing  morning,  so 
'clock,  when  we 
neral  make  his 
er  cleared  up  in 
e  into  the  town, 

is  I in  the 

Parliament  haa 
Dhe  whole  place 
many  ladies  as 
thless  interest, 
lefore  it  a  table 
e  oldest  in  the 
double  desks, 
;  and  as  they 
n  have  his  par- 
ntage,  particu- 
3  that  in  Eng- 
He  read  the 
,  and  then  in 
ar.     I  thought 


Lord  Elgin  was  well  received,  an  air  of  great  respect  pervading, 
and  I  heard  applause  as  he  went  out.  His  great  ability,  united 
as  it  is  with  firmness,  and  the  most  straightfofward  character  pos> 
sible,  has  been  of  infinite  value  to  this  rising  country ;  although 
party  feeling  and  the  tempers  of  a  few  disappointed  spirits, 
aided  by  an  ill-written  and  abusive  Press,  in  some  measure  dim 
the  brilliancy  of  his  career ;  or  rather  misrepresent  it  at  this 
moment. 

September  8. — At  twelve  o'clock  last  night,  I  returned  from 
Quebec,  after  sitting  almost  nine  hours,  watching  the  proceedings 
of  the  House  of  Deputies  with  so  much  interest  that,  for  the 
time,  I  was  neither  hungry  nor  tired.  The  order  of  the  day — 
an  Address  upon  the  Governor-General's  speech ;  but  this  was 
not  brought  forward  at  all  during  my  stay,  so  what  happened 
after  twelve  o'clock  remains  to  be  seen ;  but  it  appeared  to  me 
the  business  they  had  in  hand  was  enough  to  occupy  them  during 
the  whole  of  their  first  sitting.  A  Rouge  member  took  prece- 
dence, by  a  motion  to  the  effect  that  a  certain  Timothy  Brodeur, 
a  unanimously  returned  member  for  the  district  of  Bagot,  having 
illegally  acted  as  returning  officer  after  his  election,  and  thus  re- 
turned himself — the  said  Timothy  Brodeur  was  illegally  seated ; 
and  the  motion  therefore  went  on  to  summon  Timothy  the  return- 
ing officer  to  the  Bar  of  the  House,  to  be  questioned  as  to  whether 
he  was  Timothy  Brodeur,  Esq.,  who  was  elected  member  for 
Bagot,  or  not.  This  motion  was  opposed  by  the  lawyers  attached 
to  the  Government ;  first,  because  they  knew  nothing  about  the 
case ;  secondly,  because  they  affirmed  it  was  an  act  of  tyranny  to 
oblige  the  said  Timothy  to  give  evidence  against  himself,  without 
any  previous  notice ;  and,  thirdly,  because  Timothy  Brodeur  the 
member  not  being  proved  legally  to  be  Timothy  the  returning 
officer,  it  would  be  a  breach  of  Parliamentary  privilege  to  order 
a  member  to  the  Bar  without  first  proving  him  to  be  the  person 
required.  Both  sides  of  the  House,  however,  admitted  there  was 
but  one  Timothy ;  and  it  seemed  to  me,  upon  a  simple,  unlearned 
view  of  the  case,  that  there  was  a  great  deal  of  quibbling  and 
special  pleading ;  so  that  I,  as  an  unprejudiced  observer,  should 


04 


THE   HOTTSE   OF   DEPTTTIES. 


have  voted  with  the  Opposition  against  the  Ministry;  and  I 
imagine  Mr.  Hincks,  the  prime  minister,  was  not  very  well  satis- 
fied with  the  grounds  upon  which  his  colleagues  were  batthng,  for 
he  kept  out  of  the  way  as  much  as  possible,  and  took  no  part  in 
the  long  debate  which  followed.  There  were  several  divisions,  in 
all  of  which  the  Ministry  were  beat  by  a  majority  of  twenty-four 
or  twenty-five;  apparently,  the  question  was  not  if  Timothy 
should  be  questioned  at  all,  but  whether  he  should  have  time  to 
answer  whether  he  was  the  real  Simon  Pure,  or  not  ?  And  the 
fight  seemed  to  be  about  the  words  '  i-  'mediately,'  or  '  to-mor- 
row,' or  next  day.'  I  imagine  that  in  iiiUgland  the  whole  affair 
would  have  been  referred  to  a  Committee  of  Privileges,  and  not 
have  been  allowed  to  stand  in  the  way  of  the  Address  upon  the 
Queen's  Speech ;  but  there  appears  such  a  determination  in  the 
majority  to  turn  out  the  present  Ministry,  that  perhaps  it  prefers 
to  show  its  strength  upon  this  question  (which  does  not  touch 
upon  the  Governor-General's  speech  at  all,  and  who  does  not  even 
know  the  circumstances  which  gave  rise  to  it),  than  upon  the  Ad- 
dress itself.  But  of  course  this  is  only  my  conjecture,  founded 
on  the  difficulty,  that  any  truly  patriotic  Canadian  could  grumble 
at  the  speech  delivered  from  the  Throne  on  Wednesday  last.  It 
was  more  than  half-past  ten  o'clock  before  Timothy  was  fairly 
brought  to  the  Bar  of  the  House.  First,  the  Serjeant-at-Arms 
was  sent  to  summon  him ;  but  Timothy  only  shook  his  head  and 
remained  unmoved,  (having  the  whole  evening  heard  the  com- 
plaints and  borne  the  attacks  against  himself  in  the  most  nleat 
and  imperturbable  manner.)  Then  the  House  felt  its  dignity 
insulted,  and  another  motion  was  carried,  to  the  effect  that  the 
Speaker  should  make  out  his  warrant  for  the  arrest  of  the  con- 
tuniacious  Timothy;  and  lastly,  the  Serjeant-at-Arms,  removing 
the  mace  from  the  table,  walked  up  with  it  to  the  contumacious 
member,  who  then  followed  quietly  to  the  Bar,  and  stood  there 
looking  simple  and  innocent  as  a  lambda  gentle-looking  old  man, 
unable,  I  suspect,  to  speak  English ;  perhaps  he  only  half  under- 
stood the  business,  after  all.  He  admitted  that  he  was  Timothy 
Biudeur)  Esq.,  the  nuember,  and  also  Timothy  Brodeur,  the  re- 


TBE   FREMIER's   SFEECB. 


66 


turning  oflScer ;  and  that  he  was  to  be  paid  twenty  pounds  for 
executing  the  latter  office  in  his  own  favour ;  but  he  said  the  money 
had  never  been  paid  to  him.  After  this  I  came  away,  leaving 
Mr.  Brodeur  in  the  midst  of  his  questioning ;  and  as  Liie  Opposi- 
tion hinted  at  two  other  cases  of  the  same  kind  they  meant  to 
bring  forward,  it  was  hardly  possible  the  Answer  to  the  address 
could  be  debated  this  morning,  so  I  hope  to  hear  it  still. 

The  use  of  the  two  languages,  at  the  pleasure  of  the  different 
members  alternately  and  indifferently,  had  a  curious  effect  to  me. 
Sometimes  a  member,  after  speaking  in  French,  was  asked  to 
repeat  in  English  what  he  had  said  in  French,  and  vice  versd.  Ja, 
BQevaa  that  many  of  the  new  members  understand  only  one  lan- 
guage, and  this  must  complicate  affairs  considerably.  Tiv^i  li  anner 
in  which  divisions  are  taken  is  good  in  a  small  assemuly,  but  it 
would  occupy  too  much  time  in  our  House  of  Commons.  The 
Noes  stand  up,  and  a  clerk  calls  over  their  names  to  be  written 
down  at  the  table,  air^.  then  the  same  process  is  gone  through 
with  the  Ayes.  Thib  is  advantageous  for  a  stranger,  as  it  iden- 
tifies each  member. 

September  9. — Another  cold  showery  day,  and  I  preferred 
walking  into  Quebec  to  going  in  a  carriage,  having  had  no  exercise 
yesterday.  I  called  on  Mrs.  Mountain,  the  wife  of  the  Bishop  of 
Quebec,  who  sat  by  me  at  dinner  here  on  Tv  iil.  esday ;  and  then 

Captain  H took  me  from  Judge  Bowen  s  into  the  House  of 

Deputies.  There  was  great  excitement,  for  the  news  had  become 
generally  spread  that  the  Ministers  had  resigned,  and  that  Sir 
Allen  M'Nab  was  forming  a  new  Government.  This  was  con- 
firmed, immediately  after  the  House  met,  by  Mr.  Hincks  himself, 
who  moved  that  the  orders  of  tht  day  should  be  postponed  till 
Monday,  in  consequence  of  the  resignation  of  the  Ministers ;  and 
then  spoke  for  some  time.  He  gave  a  sketch  of  all  that  had 
occurred  during  his  tenure  of  office  which  bore  upon  the  state  of 
parties ;  alluded  slightly  to  the  numerous  measures  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  people  and  the  prosperity  of  Canada  which  had 


was  Timothy 
jrodeur,  the  re- 


been 

ministered  public  affairs;  spoke  feelingly  of  the  base  attacks 


originated  and  carried  out  during  the  six  years  he  had  ad- 


66 


DEEDS,   NOT    WORDS 


w 


which  had  been  levelled  at  his  character ;  and  of  the  desertion  of 
some  former  adherents  who  had  played  a  base  and  double-dealing 
game,  differing  from  the  open  and  honest  opposition  which  had 
characterized  the  conduct  of  other  men  whose  motives  he  re- 
spected. Mackenzie,  that  little  Celtic-looking  deputy  who  was  one 
of  the  leaders  of  the  rebellion,  had  removed  from  his  own  seat, 
and  placed  himself  in  an  arm-chair  so  as  to  be  nearly  opposite  to 
Mr.  Hincks :  he  took  the  opportunity  of  uttering  a  loud  *  Hear, 
hear,'  upon  some  observation,  when  the  speaker,  immediately 
looking  him  full  in  the  face,  broke  forth  into  a  very  powerful, 
animated,  and  sarcastic  exposure  of  the  bitter  animosity  with 
which  Mackenzie  had  pursued  him,  showing  that  he  (Mackenzie) 
uttered  by  various  means,  and  through  numerous  channels,  the 
most  false  and  libellous  accusations,  and  then  had  ended  by 
becoming  his  opponent  at  the  election;  'but,'  continued  Mr. 
Hincks,  *  if  I  have  had  personal  enemies,  they  have  been  more 
than  counterbalanced  by  devoted  friends.  I  had  the  satisfaction 
of  polling  more  than  three  hundred  votes  when  my  adversary 
could  only  muster  twenty-three ;  and  also  of  being  returned  for 
another  place,  without  having  asked  for  one  suffrage  from  the 
electors.'  It  was  generally  thought  that  the  retiring  minister 
erred  only  in  a  too  modest  appreciation  of  the  services  of  his 
administration.  He  merely  said  that  the  statute-book  would  show 
what  had  been  effected  during  the  time  he  had  been  employed  in 
the  service  of  his  country,  without  even  pointing  out  that  he  re- 
ceived his  office  when  the  people  were  discontented  and  adverse 
to  the  rule  of  England ;  and  that  he  gives  it  up,  leaving  them 
rapidly  progressing,  happy  and  loyal,  with  railroads  opening  and 
opened  in  all  directions ;  the  most  magnificent  bridge  in  the  world 
in  progress,  to  connect  the  opposite  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence ; 
matters  which  have  long  been  the  cause  of  disunion  and  irritation 
permanently  and  irrevocably  put  to  rest ;  and  the  revenues  of  the 
two  divisions  of  Oanada  trebled  in  amount.  Deeds,  not  words. 
Mr.  Hincks  may  not  have  said  all  ho  might  have  said  for  his  own 
glorification,  or  even  for  the  reputation  of  the  Governor-General ; 
but  bo  has  left  his  office,  having  completed  and  carried  out  meaa* 


SPENOEIt.  WOOD. 


67 


eri  out  meaa* 


ures  for  which  the  Canadians  will  have  reason  to  bless  the  rule 
of  Lord  Elgin  as  long  as  their  country  has  a  name ;  and,  before 
one  winter  has  passed  over  it,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  they  will 
be  sensible  of  the  benefits  which  their  late  minister  has  been  in- 
strumental in  securing  to  them,  and  who,  upon  looking  round  their 
House  of  Assembly,  stands  almost  as  superior  to  his  detractors  as 
Sir  R.  Peel  once  rose  above  those  who  believed  themselves  equal 
to  attacking  him.  The  House  adjourned  till  Monday,  immedi- 
ately Mr.  Hincks  resumed  his  stat;  and  then  numerous  mem- 
bers— even  Cochon  and  others  who  had  been  in  Opposition — 
rushed  forward  to  ofler  their  hands :  it  was  quite  an  interesting 
scene,  and  I  observed  tears  on  the  cheeks  of  many. 

I  walked  back  to  Spencer  Wood  over  the  Plains  of  Abraham, 
passing  Wolfe's  Hotel,  and  other  memorials  of  by-gone  events. 
The  weather  was  cold  and  threatening ;  we  want  sunshine  much ; 
but  I  reached  home  without  rain  enough  to  annoy  me.  Part  of 
the  way  I  walked  over  boarded  paths,  which  are  very  common 
about  the  towns  instead  of  flagstone  pavement.  They  are  much 
less  fatiguing,  but  more  expensive  than  pavement,  as  frequent  re- 
newal is  necessary.  I  have  not  yet  attempted  any  sketches 
here.  In  the  first  place,  the  air  has  been  cold,  and  the  distances 
too  hazy ;  and  then  I  have  also  been  occupiod  by  the  interest  of 
the  present  state  of  affairs.  I  have  bfoi.  very  fortunate  in  arriv- 
ing just  at  a  crisis  which  is  quite  exciting,  and  of  course  these 
circumstauces  enable  me  to  study  and  to  understand  the  state  of 
parties  and  the  feelings  of  the  people  here,  better  than  I  could  do 

under  the  usual  routine.     Colonel   C ,  who  was  a  former 

Secretary  to  the  Governor,  is  here.  He  married  a  Canadian 
lady,  and  lives  wholly  among  the  French  Canadians.  He  tells 
me  they  are  a  most  amiable  people,  quite  free  from  bigotry  of  a 
proselyting  kind ;  that  priests  constantly  visit  at  his  house,  but 
there  never  has  been  the  least  attempt  to  disturb  his  Protestant 
convictions,  or  to  evince  any  irritation  upon  tho  subject.  He 
lias  kindly  invited  me  to  visit  his  place  of  regidence,  near  Mon* 
ta*eal,  when  I  leave  this :  and  I  shall  like  much  to  profit  by  what 
may  bo  my  only  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the 


KONSIEUB.  BKODKUR. 


1 


manners  and  habits  of  Lower  Canada,  which  I  believe  aie  in 
many  respects  very  different  from  those  of  the  Upper  Provmce. 

It  seems  that  poor  Monsieur  Timothy  Brodeur,  the  cause  of  all 
the  disputes  and  excitement  in  the  Parliament  the  day  before 

yesterday,  is  a  deputy  from  Mr.   C 's  neighbourhood ;  that 

his  error  has  been  wholly  owing  to  want  of  knowledge.  He  was 
made  to  come  forward  rather  against  his  own  inclination,  and  has 
sacrificed  his  tastes  and  his  domestic  enjoyments  to  get  into  this 
hot  water — ^poor  man  I  Of  course  he  is  very  much  annoyed.  It 
seems  that  most  of  the  business  of  his  return  was  conducted  by 
another  officer,  but  he  unwittingly  signed  the  paper  himself,  not 
being  aware  of  the  consequence,  and  the  matter  was  taken  up  by 
another  French  Canadian,  who,  being  a  Rouge,  wished,  I  suppose, 
to  spite  his  quieter  countryman ;  but  one  thing  is  certain,  that 
Timothy  Brodeur  is  not  likely  to  attach  himself  to  the  Rouges 
after  this  business.  He  is  an  acquaintance  of  the  new  Speaker, 
Monsieur  Sicotte,  who  was  proposed  by  the  Bouge  party.  By 
the  by,  he  seems  a  gentlemanly,  quiet  mac,  who  conducts  the  busi- 
ness pleasantly,  and  who,  I  should  imagine,  will  be  very  generally 
liked  by  the  members,  though  he  seems  to  hn'^e  been  a  man  little 
known  till  he  happened  to  be  brought  forward  on  this  occasion. 

If  this  day  is  fine,  I  shall  make  interest  with  the  gardener, 
and  get  him  to  accompany  me  with  his  spade  to  a  wood  near,  to 
dig  up  some  ferns,  and  then  I  will  pack  up  the  roots  and  send 
them  straight  to  England  from  hence,  which  I  think  may  give 
them  a  better  chance  of  existence  than  going  all  round  by  Boston. 

Lord  Elgin  is  going  to  have  a  dinner-party  this  evening,  when 
the  twelve  retiring  ministers  will  be  present.  I  shall  have  the 
luck  of  seeing  the  two  Cabinets  all  together  upon  two  different 
days — the  Outs  and  the  Ins.  This  will  be  a  fine  opportunity  for 
speculation.  No  one  y^t  knows  the  names  of  the  men  likely  to 
bo  put  together  by  Sir  Allan  M'Nab,  who  may  be  considered  the 
Lord  Derby  of  Canada ;  and  he  will  have  a  similar  difficulty  as 
the  one  which  beset  the  English  Conservatives — for  no  minister 
can  stand  here  who  attempts  to  preserve  the  Clergy  BcHervea : 
whether  right  or  wrong,  the  people  are  almost  unanimous  in  oon* 


QUEBEC. 


6d 


1  a  man  little 


lous  in  oon* 


demning  them.  So,  as  Lord  Derby  was  obliged  to  confirm  free- 
trade  in  opposition  to  the  principles  of  his  life,  so  Sir  Allan 
M'Nab  must  sacrifice  the  Clergy  Reserves  in  opposition  to  his. 
He  must  select  a  mixed  Cabinet,  as  his  own  party  is  otherwise 
too  weak  to  stand,  and  nobody  seems  to  know  whether  he  will 
seek  for  assistance  from  the  Bouges  or  the  Whig" ;  but,  as  ex- 
tremes generally  meet,  perhaps  he  will  prefer  the  ultra  Badicals, 
with  whom  he  has  voted  to  turn  out  the  last  Government,  rather 
than  ally  himself  with  those  who  have  been  more  provoking, 
because  their  opinions  were  not  so  antagonistic  to  his  own  as 
those  of  the  Rouges.  So  it  is  in  politics  as  well  as  in  religion.  I 
observe  some  piDple  are  more  tolerant  of  Jews  and  Mahometans, 
than  they  are  of  Christians  who  may  differ  only  a  shade  from 
themselves — just  as  family  quarrels  are  the  most  bitter  quarrels 
of  all.  One  comfort  is,  the  people  here  have  not  any  ground  left 
now  upon  which  they  can  fight  to  any  very  mischievous  degree ; 
and  this  happy  agreement  they  certainly  owe,  in  a  great  measure, 
to  Lord  Elgin.  As  well  as  I  can  guess,  the  present  change  may 
be  attributed  to  a  longing  for  office  in  some  individuals,  and  a 
craving  for  variety  in  others.  People  get  tired  of  the  best  thing 
if  they  have  it  always,  provided  there  is  any  possibility  of  get- 
ting something  else  instead ;  and  this  is  one  of  the  many  advan- 
tages of  our  hereditary  monarchy — the  complete  prevention  of 
change  for  the  sake  of  change.  As  to  the  purity  of  election  and 
national  choice,  I  have  already  discovered  that  neither  the  one  nor 
the  other  is  attained  by  American  institutions,  although  as  a  whole, 
for  a  new  country,  they  work  very  well ;  and  I  should  not  ima- 
gine that  the  United  States  would  be  more  prosperous  under  any 
other  form  of  government  than  the  one  they  possess ;  still,  many 
people  assert  there  is  now  more  positive  individual  liberty  in 
Canada  than  among  the  Americans.  Of  this  I  have,  as  yet,  had 
no  fair  means  of  judging.  As  the  post  for  England  goes  to-day, 
I  must  leave  the  solution  of  the  ministerial  crisis  here  for  the 
next  mail,  and  let  this  go  as  it  is. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


70 


QUEBEC. 


The  English  mail  has  just  arrived,  and  not  one  letter  for  me  ! 
I  shall  probably  stay  here  ten  days  longer,  and  it  is  best  that 
every  thing  should  be  directed  the  same  until  after  the  1st  of 
October,  when  my  friends  must  address  to  New  York ;  till  then; 
Lord  Elgin  will  know  best  wliere  my  letters  can  be  sent.  The 
sun  has  at  last  appeared,  and  I  am  going  this  afternoon  to  see  the 
Falls  of  Montmorenci.  I  can  leave  this  packet  at  the  office  at 
Quebec  in  my  way.  I  will  number  my  letters  from  this  time, 
which  will  enable  you  to  tell  whether  they  reach  England  as 
regularly  as  I  send  them. 


f 


LETTEE  Vin. 


QUEBEC. 


Spinoer  "Wood,  QuEBito,  I 
Septemberll,  1S54.     J 

My  DEAR  Friends, — 

After  sending  off  my  last  letter  on  Saturday,  Lord  Elgin^s 

carriage  took  me  into  Quebec ;  and  from  thenco  Capt.  H 

drove  me  to  see  the  falls  of  Montmorenci.  I  once  heard  a  water- 
fall in  the  Isle  of  Man  compared  to  Montmorenci ;  but  if  there 
is  any  likeness,  it  is  only  that  of  a  dwarf  to  a  giant.  The  river 
Montmorenci  pours  down,  almost  suddenly,  more  than  two  hun- 
dred feet — a  height  greater  than  Niagara.  It  is  rece'ved  by  the 
magnificent  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  views  ten  w'^hs  up  it,  to 
Quebec,  and  almost  as  far  down,  to  Cape  Tourmcute,  are  very 
fine.  The  drive  home  was  beautiful.  Owing  to  a  custom  here 
of  roofing  churches  and  houses  with  tin  plates,  the  city  of  Quebec 
looked  in  the  sunset,  as  if  gemmed  with  diamonds.  We  had  a 
bright,  frosty-looking  sun,  with  the  air  as  old  as  in  November, 
in  England.  AH  the  ex-ministers  dined  Li;e  to-day.  Durir.v 
the  evening  I  was  told  of  another  place,  called  Three  Kivers, 
between  this  and  Montreal,  where  some  beautiful  scenery  is  'acces- 
sible. By  stopping  there  one  day  in  my  way  back,  I  should 
break  the  fatiguing  monotony  of  another  night  voyage. 

Sunday,  Sept.  10. — We  went  to  morning  service  at  Quebec ; 
very  cold  drive ;  a  sharp  north-easterly  wind.  In  the  afternoon 
we  walked  to  the  Protestant  Cemetery  upon  the  next  point  above 


72 


THE   CLERGT  KESEIIVES. 


'A 


Sii        it:, 


fi       I! 


!; 


% 


this  place — a  beautiful  situation.    We  passeti  t^.'o  han(.l:)omc  vti^vt 
churches,  almost  finished,  within  a  quarter  of  a  mik'  of  each  oth  '  , 


ThtJ  W^lu 


Goil;; 


one  Roman  Catholic,  the  other  Pr;  lestant. 
built  of  the  pleasiiig  coloured  gi  ey  stcoe  of  tbe  country.  Though 
the  great  mass  of  the  population  arou-^i  and  in  Quebec  arc 
Roman  Catholics,  one  does  not.  hear  of  religiou;?  disputes :  sirco 
Gavazzi  excited  an  uproar  at  Moatr«^.il,  I  believe  nothing  of  that 
kind  has  occurred. 

I  went  o  call  upon  a  Canadian  lady,  near  eigii.'^  yeara  of 
ag*;,  who  untlorstands  tlie  botany  of  this  country  better  than  any 
ouv  I  bav  •  ruet  wvcii.  In  earlier  years,  during  the  time  of  a  for- 
mer Ladv  Bjilhousie,  Mrs.  M acquired  this  taste  from  her, 

raid  sli*  is  quite  pleased  to  have  it  revived.  She  took  me  to 
Quebeo,  and  at  thr>^e  o'clock  I  went  to  see  the  Canadian  Parlia- 
ment assemble.  Sir  Allan  M'Nab  was  announced  as  the  new 
minister ;  having  formed  his  Government  upon  coalition  princi- 
ples, he  has  taken  in  all  the  old  ministers  but  three;  changing 
his  policy  upon  the  Clergy  Reserves,  &c.,  &c.,  from  deference  to 
the  general  voice  of  this  country.  Sir  Allan  is  perfectly  aware 
that  no  Govern>nent  can  stand  which  refuses  to  adjust  the  Clergy 
Reserves.  It  is  supposed  that  there  are  not  now  ten  votes  in  the 
House  willing  to  support  them.  So  it  seems  the  new  Govern- 
ment comes  in,  only  to  carry  out  the  views  of  their  predecessors ; 
a  strong  proof  that  this  change  is  only  made  for  the  sake  of 
something  fresh.  Of  course  the  new  ministers  could  not  take 
part  in  the  debates,  as  they  must  be  re-elected.  Mr.  Ilincks 
made  a  frank  and  clear  statement,  in  refutation  of  accusations 
which  have  been  freely  circulated  during  the  last  few  days  to  the 
etlcct  that  he  had  recommended  his  successor,  and  sold  his  party 
to  him.  At  the  same  time  he  expressed  hh*  <  a-  ention  of  support- 
ing thiB  new  administration,  as  long  as  the  ,  re  willing  to  carry 
out  good  measures.  I  remained  in  *l)e  I'  <  ,j  till  it  was  time  to 
return  to  >  \er  at  Spencer  Wood ;  !'•<  seches  were  generally 
dull,  excu^  i.iiig  those  of  a  few,  whos.  ^"Piippointmeut  and  auger, 
at  the  result  of  the  changes,  creat*'<i  .  u-a  excitement.  One 
speakeF  actually  maintained  that  any  atU  '    out  of  doors  upon 


iU 


CAROUGE. 


78 


the  oharaoter  of  a  prime  minister,  was  sufficient  to  render  him 
uiiiit  to  continue  in  office,  because  such  attacks  weakened  the 
ooufidence  of  the  people,  and  agitated  the  country ; — so,  accord- 
ing to  this  doctrine,  a  leader  is  to  be  always  at  the  mercy  of  the 
mendacious  scandal-mongers  of  a  community  I — a  most  extraordi- 
nary political  axiom.     Capt.  H drove  me  and  Mr.  C 

home ;  it  was  a  cold,  frosty  night,  but  not  quite  so  sharp  us  yes- 
terday, when  Dahlias  and  potatoes  were  cut  down ;  but  I  console 
myself  by  hoping  this  may  be  all  the  winter  I  shall  get,  if  I 
I  rocced  toward  the  South  in  December.  It  strikes  me  as  singu- 
lar that  the  weather  should  be  so  cold,  while  the  leaves  are  still 
upon  the  troes,  for  I  see  none  fallen,  and  only  here  and  there 
a  branch  of  foliage  turning  red  and  yellow. 

September  12. — Yesterday,  a  lady  took  me  to  visit  at  a  very 
pretty  place,  called  here  Carouge,  a  corruption  of  Cap-rouge,  on 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  where  the  river  Carouge  falls 
into  it.  The  view  from  the  windows  reminded  of  Colonel  Har- 
court's,  near  Ryde.  I  gathered  acorns  off  two  or  three  oaks 
there,  differing  from  ours ;  one  with  the  mid-rib  of  the  leaf  red ; 
and,  ultimately,  I  hope  to  collect  all  the  American  species.  In  a 
wood  near  the  house,  some  Indians  had  erected  a  wigwam,  oblong 
in  form,  and  not  very  picturesque ;  it  was  lined  throughout  with 
birch  bark.  The  drive  from  Spencer  Wood  to  Cap-rouge  along 
the  banks  of  the  river  is  very  beautiful ;  the  villas  between  the 
road  and  the  banks  belong  principally  to  merchants  engaged  in 
the  lumber  trade,  for  the  edge  of  the  river  all  the  way  to  Quebeo 
is  covered  by  rafts  of  timber,  and  numerous  vessels  aro  ready  to 
convey  it  to  Erglan'  I 

P:  Umber  V6. — T  spent  the  morning  with  my  old  friend  at 
AH  Cottage.  She  garo  me  mary  rpecimens  of  the  early-blowing 
'  cwcrs,  of  whicii  I  can  now  on^^  find  the  leaves  among  them  the 
Mocassin.  We  afterward  drove  along  a  beautiful  river-coast 
road,  and  went  through  St.  Foy.  In  the  evening  there  was  a 
ball  here,  attended  by  many  pretty  young  Canadian  ladies,  who 
were  dresseu  iu  good  taste,  and  danced  well ;  their  general  ap- 
pearan-'  md  manners  were  beyond  whft  is  to  be  commonly  met 
4 


74 


THE   INDUSTRIAL   EXHIBITION. 


with  at  country  town  balls  in  England.  I  made  the  acquaintance 
of  a  Mr.  Cameron,  who  lives  near  Lake  Huron,  and  who  promises 
that  his  daughter  shall  introduce  me  to  the  plants  of  that  vicinity. 

September  14. — Lord  Elgin  took  me  to  the  great  Agricultural 
and  Industrial  Exhibition  of  Quebec,  held  in  a  fine  situation 
overlooking  the  river.  I  saw  some  interesting  things ;  one  useful 
little  instrument,  not  much  larger  thau  a  hoe,  a  kind  of  earth-boring 
screw,  with  which  you  can  dig  to  the  depth  of  two  or  three  feet 
in  as  many  minutes.  There  were  a  few  minerals,  and  some  very 
pure-looking  gold,  found  about  sixty  miles  from  hence ;  but  unfor- 
tunately these  things  were  placed  so  much  in  the  dark,  that  it 
was  difficult  to  see  them.  An  address  was  presented  to  the 
Governor-General,  which,  though  unexpected  on  his  part,  he 
replied  to,  in  a  speech  made  with  great  promptness  and  facility. 
An  early  dinner,  with  champagne,  was  prepared  by  the  committee 
for  him  and  the  gentlemen  assembled.  A  farmer  from  London, 
Upper  Canada,  made  a  very  purpose-like  and  fluent  speech,  and 
gave  a  general  invitation  to  an  agricultural  show  which  is  to  take 
place  in  his  town  on  the  26th  instant.  The  sheep  were  scanty  and 
poor  at  this  exhibition.  I  did  not  much  admire  the  pigs,  though 
some  were  thought  good ;  but  there  was  a  fi?ia  show  of  Ayrshire 
cattle,  and  very  good  cart-horses ;  no  Durham  cattle,  which  are 
not  thought  to  suit  this  country ;  but  the  London  gentleman  said 
they  were  popular  in  his  part  of  the  world.  I  was  disappointed 
in  the  flower-tent ;  what  they  had  of  flowers  and  fruits  having 
been  almost  destroyed  the  night  before  last,  when  a  storm  of  wind 
blew  down  the  tent  upon  them.  Rain  kept  off  during  the  show, 
but  a  wf  t  evening  followed.  One  amusing  part  of  the  scene  was 
the  difierent  fire-brigades  with  their  engines,  competing  for  prizes, 
given  according  to  the  height  to  which  they  could  eject  the  water. 
This  part  of  the  affair  was  very  entertaining  to  a  large  majority 
of  the  crowd.  A  great  number  of  people  from  various  districts 
were  present. 

I  spent  the  afternoon  at  the  house  of  a  -.  ry  pleasant  kind 
family,  and  went  to  the  House  of  Deputies  before  eight  o'clock, 
hoping  to  hear  the  conclusion  of  m  adjourned  debate  upon  the 


A   MALCONTENT. 


76 


Address.  I  found  the  members  engaged  in  conversation  upon  the 
motion  of  Mackenzie,  the  former  rebel.  He  is  a  singularly  wild- 
looking  little  man,  with  red  hair,  waspish  and  fractious  in  manner 
—one  of  that  kind  of  people  who  would  not  sit  down  content 
under  the  government  of  an  angel.  He  has  evidently  talent  and 
energy,  but  he  seems  intent  olI"^  upon  picking  holes  in  other 
men's  coats.  He  spends  the  money  of  the  colonists  with  great 
profusion,  for  one  purpose — printing  returns  from  which  he  hopes 
to  cull  something  which  may  damage  somebody.  He  moved  last 
night  for  the  returns  of  all  names  of  individual  shareholders  in 
banks,  railroads,  or  companies  of  any  description  !  Some  members 
opposed  this,  as  wasteful  of  the  public  money,  and  useless  to  the 
public  business ;  only  likely  to  minister  to  a  prying,  morbid  curi- 
osity about  the  afiairs  of  private  persons,  and  to  be  the  means  of 
annoying  individuals  who  might  not  like  their  investments  ;  be 
made  a  topic  of  gossiping  conversation.  Mr.  Mackenzie  ended 
by  adjourning  his  motion.  Upon  the  order  of  the  day  for  goin^- 
on  with  the  debate  about  the  Address,  Dr.  Rolph  got  up  and  made 
what  seemed  to  me  a  very  pompous  and  unfounded  attack  upon 
the  Governor-General  for  having,  upon  his  own  judgment,  selected 
Sir  A.  M'Nab  to  form  the  new  ministry.  Pr.  Rolph  maintained 
that  it  was  a  breach  of  the  Constitution  for  the  Crown  to  send  for 
any  man  to  organize  a  new  government  without  the  advice  of  a 
minister ;  that  if  n-he  late  Premier  did  not  tender  his  advice  on 
this  occasion,  it  was  his  duty  to  have  done  so ;  that  if  he  u  •  :  -'i, 
tender  his  advice,  it  was  the  constitutional  duty  of  the  Governor- 
General  to  have  taken  that  of  this  person,  or  that  person  (and 
here  Dr.  Rolph  gave  the  names  of  several  gentlemen,  whom  he 
seemed  to  consider  more  fit  for  the  Premiership  than  Sir  Allan), 
and  he  ended  by  saying,  if  none  of  these  would  do,  '  You,  Mr. 
Speakc"  f"-  ht  to  have  been  sent  for.'  I  thought  all  this  very 
extraoiu.iiary,  and  contrary  to  the  English  modes  of  procedure; 
and  so  it  appeared  did  the  assembly.  I  was  surprised  to  hear 
afterwards  that  Dr.  Rolph  had  been  considered  one  of  the  most 
gifted,  powerful,  and  dangerom  of  demagogues,  till  the  Governor- 
General,  by  trying  him  in  offic     sh  rved  how  little  talent  be  really 


Si^'- 


i^'  w, 


76 


QUEBEC. 


possessed  I  uid  not  get  away  till  nearly  midnight,  and  thi 
House  adjourned  directly  afterwards. 

September  15. — I  had  intended  to  have  crossed  over  to  the 
opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  to  see  falls  called  the  Chau- 
diero,  but  the  weathe  lov^L-cu  gloomy  and  unfavourable,  and 
having  other  things  to  do,  I  put  oflf  that  expedition :  and  this  was 

fortunate,  as  I  should  have  otherwise  missed  Mr.  F ,  whose 

energetic  devotion  to  the  cause  of  the  emigrants  from  England 
made  me  desirous  to  know  him :  he  came  out  a  steerage  passenger 
in  the  Cleopatra — a  sacrifice  of  comfort  he  has  before  made,  with 
a  view  of  ascertaining  p  actically  the  treatment  of  emigrants.  He 
is  again  going  west,  for  information  which  may  assist  the  cause  he 
has  espoused ;  and  if  I  had  not  been  so  fortunate  as  to  see  him 
this  morning,  he  would  hrive  left  Quebec.     I  drove  in  with  Lord 

B and  Mr.  F to  the  Government  Offic',,  ind  introduced 

the  latter  to  Mr.  0 ,  who  gave  him  an  invitation  from  Lord 

Elgin  to  dine  at  Spencer  Wood.  The  afternoon  turned  out  very 
fine,  and  I  had  a  delightful  botanical  excursion  across  the  river  to 
Point  Levi :  upon  rocks,  and  along  the  edge  of  the  water,  I  found 
one  of  the  only  tv^  Primulas  of  America,  the  rare  Hedysarum 
boreale.  Primula  Mistaasinica,  Lobelia  Kalmii,  Gentiana  saponaria, 
&c.,  &c.,  sli  beai'<iful  plai  N  and  quite  new  to  me.  This  locality 
was  pointed  out  to  me  by  Mr.  Shephard,  the  enthusiastic  and 
intelligent  Scotch  seedsman  of  Montreal.  Without  a  hint  I 
should  never  have  found  tlie  Primula,  as  it  is,  of  course,  not  in 
tlower  now.  I  made  two  hketchcs — one  of  i^uebcc,  which  looks 
well  from  this  place,  ard  ai  cher  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  with 
Cape  Tourmente  and  ^  mfuntains  behind  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morenci;  these  can  ..iiv  b(  seen  fom  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  Point  Levi  is  a  rambling  Canadian  village,  where  the 
inhabitants  are  all  Roman  Catholics  and  speak  little  English. 
The  place  looks  untidy  and  backward  in  civilization.  The  con- 
trast is  great  between  Point  Levi  and  hamlets  ia  the  United 
Sates:  everything  looks  new  and  hasty  there,  but  all  is  at  the 
same  time  neat,  and  significant  of  present  and  future  prosperity. 
I  found  an  odd-looking  conglomerate  rock  along  part  of  the  road 


CURIOUS   METEORIC    LIGHT. 


77 


here,  A  clumsy  dirty  little  steamer  performs  the  part  of  ferry- 
boat between  the  opposite  shores ;  it  is  the  worst  thing  of  the 
kind  I  have  seen  this  side  the  Atlantic. 

Sptemher  17. — Yesterday  an  accident  occurred,  which  might 
have  been  attended  with  more  serious  consequences :  the  horse  of 
one  of  the  gentlemen  here  fell,  whilst  cantering,  and  rolled  upon 
him;  bat,  with  the  exception  of  an  injury  to  the  shoulder,  which 
obliged  him  to  go  into  barrack,  at  Quebec,  for  medical  treatment, 

no  bad  consequences  ensu'  1.    I  drove  Mrs.  M in  Lord  Elgin's 

phaeton  into  the  town.  \V  e  found  the  wind  not  quite  so  cold.  In 
the  evening  there  was  a  very  large  dinner-party,  including  the 
whole  Legislative  Council.  A  Scotch  gentleman  from  Perth,  one 
of  the  senators,  acquainted  with  members  of  our  family  in  former 
years,  invited  me  to  visit  him  at  Bytown,  on  the  Ottawa  Kiver, 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  Montreal,  and  as  I  hear 
much  )f  the  beauty  of  that  flood  of  water,  I  am  going  from  hence 
on  Thursday,  taking  advantage  of  the  first  day's  opening  of  the 
new  railroad,  which  will  spare  me  another  stupid  night  voyage 
down  the  St.  Lawrence.  I  shall  see  a  new  country,  too,  and  do 
the  ;,  arney  to  Montreal  in  a  shorter  time,  which  makes  it  worth 
my  while  to  give  up  Three  Rivers  and  the  Falls  of  the  Herwan- 
iack,  and  also  to  leave  this  a  day  or  two  sooner  than  I  intended,  as 
the  cars  will  not  be  available  to  the  public  in  general  till  about 
a  week  later,  and  then  this  expedition  will  be  only  for  directors, 
one  of  whom  promises  to  take  us.  By  the  bye,  tlxere  was  a  very 
curious  meteoric  light  on  September  13th,  the  night  of  the  ball  here, 
which  attracted  the  notice  of  all  those  who  came.  It  was,  I  sup- 
pose, a  kind  of  Aurora  borealis,  a  broad  path  of  shining  white  light, 
extending  east  and  \n  est  from  each  horizon :  when  I  saw  it,  there 
was  no  flickering;  it  had  the  appearance  of  a  beautifully  defined 
straight  edged  zone,  bright  as  a  moonlit  cloud,  and  about  as  wide 
as  the  apparent  distance  between  the  two  constellations  Lyra  and 
Aquila.  It  r-^mained  a  long  time  visible,  considerably  more  than 
an  hour;  but  I  am  not  sure  of  its  exact  duration.  I  never  saw 
anything  like  it  before,  nor  had  any  one  else  among  all  who  saw 
it  here.    It  was  not  like  uny  Aurora  borealis  I  have  before  seen, 


i 


!it    ' 


i! ; 


'«'    ■.•'■.:      !i; 


78 


VISIT    TO   A    SOUAW 


t 


because  it  appeared  yo  stationary,  and  its  direction  wab  not  at  all 
north-warda. 

Scptcmhcr  18. — Tiisliop  Mountain  preached  yesterday;  and  af- 
ter church  I  went  with  Lord  Elgin  to  visit  a  Canadian  lady  of  great 
age.  Slic  remembers  the  Duke  of  Kent  here,  and  Lord  Dorches- 
ter, who  was  four  times  Govcruor-Geueral.  She  looked  like  one 
of  the  old  Fh;mish  pictures,  with  her  thick  black  dress  .tnd  Him- 
pie  thick  white  cap,  with  grey  locks  escaping  at  intervuL'  from 
beneath  it ;  very  lively  and  energetic,  though  unable  to  leave  her 
room.  She  was  delighted  with  the  gift  of  a  bouquet  from  the  Gov- 
ernor-General, in  honor  of  her  natal  day.  She  spoke  entirely  in 
French  ;  exprcesed  the  most  lively  sentiments  of  loyalty  towards 
the  Queen;  and  looks  to  me  as  if  she  may  live  to  number  one 
hundred  years.     Her  countenance  bore  the  stamp  of  cleverness 

and  of  great  originality.     Colonel  I took  me  to  inquire  after 

Captain  H ,  who  i.s  going  on  well;  and  I  then  saw  the  fine 

strong  citadel,  from  which  there  arc  splendid  views  of  Quebec 

and  the  St.  Lawrence.     Colonel  S embarks  his  regiment  for 

England  next  week,  and  is  so  obliging  as  to  take  charge  of  a  box 
of  plants  and  ferns,  which  I  hope  may  get  there  in  life.  Some  of 
them,  though  indigenous  here,  I  have  never  seen  in  our  gardens, 
and  being  hardy,  these  will  be  valuable  additions.  I  have  found 
seeds  of  an  Onobrychis,  I  think,  of  which  it  is  probable  speci- 
mens have  not  yet  been  seen  in  England.  It  is  pretty  enough  to 
be  a  nice  addition  to  our  hardy  plants,  if  I  should  bo  successful 
in  introducing  it.  To-day  wc  are  going  on  an  expedition  to  Lake 
St.  Charles,  about  fifteen  miles  from  Quobecr  I  am  told  it  is  well 
worth  seeing.  Wc  left  Spencer  Wood  before  noon.  The  day 
turned  out  wet,  but  it  was  little  more  than  drizzling  rain ;  and 
as  there  is  a  merry  party  of  young  people,  no  weather  damps 
their  enjoyment.  I  first  saw  the  Falls  of  Lorette,  and  upon  the 
rocks  there  found  a  beautiful  and  rare  fern  {Allosorus  gracilis) : 

then,  while  the  rest  of  the  party  preceded  us,  Mr.  K was  so 

obliging  as  to  take  me  to  visit  a  hamlet  of  civilized  Indians,  one 
of  the  Huron  tribes.  Wo  missed  seeing  the  chief,  who  was  at  big 
farm,  but  his  squaw  received  us  in  her  neat  house,  as  comforta 


variatilt:  weatfier. 


79 


bly  furnished  as  nny  hclnnging  to  our  Ixst  farmers.  She  told  ua 
her  husband's  mother  was  of  Frencli  origin,  but  that  she  was  pure 
Indian.  Her  age  must  be  about,  seventy.  She  has  decidedly  the 
f('aturcs  of  a  squaw,  but  hIio  is  extremely  intelligent,  and  speaks 
good  Canadian  French.  This  chief  has  only  one  son,  but  that  son 
has  six  children.  Wo  bought  little  boxes,  bashrts,  and  pin-cush- 
ions, all  made  out  of  birch  bark  by  Mrs.  Paul  and  her  husband; 
some  of  them  very  prettily  embroidered. 

The  people  of  this  village  wear  a  kind  of  half  Indian  costume ; 
the  men,  generally,  very  bvj|ght  scarlet  caps.  They  are  Koman 
Catholics;  and  a  woman  siiowed  us  their  little  chapel,  which  pos- 
sesses a  miraculous  wooden  Virgin,  which  was  supposed  to  havo 
escaped  burning,  when  everything  round  it,  in  a  former  locality, 
was  destroyed  by  fire.  This  place,  bettor  built,  and  more  clean 
and  orderly,  than  most  European  villages,  at  once  sets  at  rest  the 
question,  whether  Indians  can  be  induced  to  give  up  a  nomadic  life. 
From  Lorettc  to  Lake  St.  Cliarlos,  the  road  was  but  indiiferent. 
At  the  house  of  a  habitant  farmer  we  found  our  pic-nic  party  as- 
sembled. There  was  an  attempt  to  embark  in  canoes  upon  the 
lake,  which  was  abandoned  because  it  rained  too  heavily.  The 
rest  of  the  party  returned  for  shelter,  but  I  made  a  sketch  from 
under  an  umbrella,  and  discovered  two  or  three  more  plants — 
another  pretty  ferii,  at  present  quite  unknown  to  me.  Upon 
reaching  the  hotise,  I  found  a  merry  round  game  going  on.  \Ve 
thou  had  an  excellent  dinner ;  and  afterwards,  to  avoid  a  bad  road 
in  the  dark,  we  all  got  into  the  carriages,  and  returned  as  far  as 
Lorctte,  where  there  is  a  small  hotel :  two  fiddlers,  both  of  Indian 
blood,  plajfcd  quadrilles  and  waltzes  in  excellent  time ;  ten  or 
twelve  couples  were  made  up,  and  people  were  so  well  content  with 
this  amusement,  that  we  did  not  get  back  to  Quebec  much  before 
midnight. 

September  19. — Rain  as  heavy  as  that  of  the  heaviest  thun- 
der-storm in  England,  from  six  to  nine ;  and,  when  I  set  out  to 
walk  at  noon,  expecting  a  temperature  cold  as  November,  I  found 

sha^vl-}  and  wrans  onitfi   in   tho  wnv :   it  was  like  a  warm  June 

^ ..  ^ —    —    ■■   ,/  I   -      -  .  .        _  — 

morning ;  such  a  rapid  change  I  hardly  ever  remember,  even  in 


w 

I: 


m\u 


80 


CANADIAN   PENSIONERS. 


i  ' 


our  chaugoablo  clinmto.  I  went  to  Hkctch  a  fine  view  of  Quebec 
and  the  St.  Lawreuco,  as  far  as  Capo  Tourmente,  from  the  citadel : 
it  was  very  windy,  and  oven  the  eheltor  of  one  of  the  great  guns 
was  hardly  enough  to  eualuc  nie  to  keep  my  paper  from  being 
blown  away.  Afterwards  I  drove  to  see  a  pretty  place  and  nice 
garden  belonging  to  Dr.  Douglas,  at  Beaufort,  near  Quebec.  Mrs. 
Douglas  received  nie  very  kindly,  but  I  was  sorry  to  miss  the 
doctor,  who  went  yesterday  to  the  Chaudicre.  There  is  a  very  well 
conducted  and  comfortable-looking  public  lunatic  asylum,  in  which 
Dr.  Douglas  takes  great  interest,  adjjoining  his  grounds,  which  are 
extensive,  and  laid  out  with  great  taste.  I  returned  to  dine  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  K at  Quebec,  intending  to  go  to  the  Parlia- 
ment House  to  hear  the  Address  discussed ;  but  as  the  debate 
appeared  likely  to  linger  on  during  the  night,  and  we  had  a  pleasant 
party  and  agreeable  house,  I  remained  all  the  evening  where  I 
was. 

September  20. — A  stormy  night,  and  the  weather  again  bitterly 
cold.  I  went  into  Quebec  upon  hearing  that  the  Assembly  had 
sat  all  night,  and  were  still  discussing  the  amendment  on  the  Ad- 
dress, which,  after  all,  was  only  to  substitute  the  word  '  seculari- 
sation' for  '  adjustment.'  I  was  fortunate  in  getting  to  the  House 
about  half-past  two  o'clock,  before  the  adjournment ;  so  I  was 
present  at  the  finale,  when  there  was  a  great  majority  for  the 
Ministers,  and  it  was  agreed,  without  a  division,  that  the  address 
should  be  carried  up  to-morrow  by  the  whole  House,  which  should 
adjourn  till  four  o'clock,  Thursday. 

September  21. — Colonel  Tulloch,  the  Government  Commis- 
siouor  for  settling  and  looking  after  the  military  pensioners  who 
have  had  grants  of  land  in  Canada,  dined  here.  He  has  been 
very  successful  in  improving  their  condition,  and  land  is  not — as 
it  used  to  be — a  misfortune,  rather  than  a  K;lessing,  to  the  pension- 
ed soldier.  This  improvement  is  partly  owing  to  Colonel  Tulloch 's 
plan  of  making  the  grant  to  consist  of  three  or  four  acres  instead 
of  one  hundred,  as  was  formerly  the  ease,  wh'^.  the  occupant,  uii- 
fit  to  clear  and  bring  into  cultivation  so  )'  "(tq  a  portion,  was  rained 
by  it.     Now,  the  smaller  allotments  are  'jii ;     u.'d  garden  fashion 


QU£BEC. 


81 


nt  Commis- 
isioners  wlio 
He  has  bceu 
d  is  not — aa 
the  peusiou- 
licl  Tullooh's 
cres  instead 
ocupaut,  uib 
was  ruined 
den  fashion 


aud  one  individual  made  fifty  pounds  last  year  from  his  three 
acres,  principally  by  growing  vegetables  for  the  Toronto  market. 
In  case  of  the  death  of  an  occupant,  his  widow  is  left  in  possession 
on  condition  that  she  re-marries  with  no  one  but  a  soldier ;  and 
no  widow  has  ever  yet  (Colonel  Tulloch  declares)  remained  two 
months  without  a  husband.  Such  is  the  anxiety  for  a  housewife, 
that  men  of  fifty  marry  widows  fifteen  years  older  than  themselves, 
rather  than  remain  bachelors.  What  a  chance  for  antiquated 
spinsters  wishing  to  change  their  state ! 

Four  of  the  gentlemen  who  dined  hero  yesterday  sang  Negro 
and  Canadian  boat  songs  in  the  evening,  all  in  good  time  and 
tune;  they  are  very  pretty  airs.  The  71st  Regiment  embarks  for 
England  on  Saturday,  much  regretted  here.  I  think  this  is  the 
most  variable  climate  I  ever  visited.  Last  night  it  was  bitterly 
cold ;  this  morning  the  sun  shines,  and  every  thing  again  looks 
sammerish,  while  yesterday,  no  wraps  could  enable  me  to  stand  for 
ten  minutes  at  the  citadel  to  finish  my  sketch ;  but  I  am  told  this 
month  is  not  usually  so  cold;  there  have  been  many  icebergs  seen 
lately  near  the  coast,  and  that  is  supposed  to  be  the  reason  of  the 
unusual  fri^^'dity  we  feel  here.  I  miss  the  furs  which  were  left 
behind  at  Boston,  supposed  to  bo  useless  encumbrances  at  this  time 
of  year ;  but  it  is  to  be  hoped  that,  after  my  return  to  Montreal, 
I  shall  find  myself  again  in  a  warmer  climate.  There  is  certainly 
more  difference  between  the  temperature  of  the  two  plaeea  than 
the  distance  would  lead  one  to  expect :  here,  the  grass  has  been 
extremely  verdant  this  summer,  while  at  Montreal  every  blade 
was  burnt  up ;  and  I  saw  nothing  green  whatever,  except  the  trees. 
I  am  afraid  my  hopes  of  going  back  by  rail  arc  illusory.  Sir 
Cusack  Rowney  was  here  yesterday,  and  he  seems  to  consider  tlio 
line  wholly  impassable  at  present,  and  likely  to  remain  so  till  the 
16th  of  next  month ;  so,  instead  of  going  by  cars  to-day,  I  must 
delay  till  Saturday,  and  then  reconcile  myself  to  the  steam-boat 
passage  down  the  St.  Lawrence ;  now,  I  shall  not  have  time  to 
stop  at  Three  llivers. 

Sepi^mher  22. — Yesterday  I  was  present  at  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Archbishop's  palace,  to  see  the  assemblage  of  the  clergy  of 
4* 


83 


LORD    ELGIN. 


i' 


I  ' 


that  persuasion,  for  the  laying  the  first  stone  of  a  college.  Thera 
were  seven  bishops,  besides  the  archbishop,  all  benevolent-looking 
men.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  much  religious  bigotry  with  that 
Church  here — or  at  any  rate  it  keeps  out  of  sight — and  the  present 
Governor-deneral  does  all  in  his  power  to  maiutiiiu  peace  and 
charity  among  the  differing  Churches.  He  made  a  most  eloquent 
and  facile  speech  in  French,  although  wholly  unprepared.  Ht 
alluded  to  the  vast  progress  in  the  material  world ;  to  the  marvels 
of  electricity  and  of  steam,  by  the  agency  of  which  the  inhabitants 
of  remote  settlements  are  brought  into  connection,  and  railroads 
convey  the  luxuries  of  civilization  to  the  backwoods  of  Canada 
and  the  solitary  dwellings  of  the  Far  West.  He  then  reminded 
the  assemblage  of  differing  Christians  that  the  spiritual  empire  of 
religion  and  moi'ality  could  only  be  made  to  keep  pace  with  mate- 
rial progress  through  the  cordial  union  of  Protestant  and  Cath- 
olic, in  the  great  work  of  educating  the  young,  and  guiding  the 
mature,  by  the  lights  of  piety  and  truth.  The  observers  and  list- 
eners of  each  Church  appeared  interested  aud  pleased,  and  1 1 -ust 
something  was  effected  on  this  occasion  towards  allaying  and  ap- 
peasing their  diffei*ences.  I  went  to  make  my  skt'ch  froju  the 
citadel,  and  afterwards  returned  to  the  Government  House,  to  get 
a  peep  through  an  open  door  of  the  ceremony  of  taking  up  un 
Address  by  the  whole  Canadian  House  of  Commons.  It  was 
much  the  same  as  in  England.  The  Roman  Catholic  bishops 
afterwards  presented  a  loyal  address  to  Lord  Elgin.     I  drove 

Mrs.  K to  her  father's  house  on  the  St.  Foy  road,  and  went 

to  take  leave  of  Mrs.  Montazambert,  in  my  way  back  to  Spencer 
Wood.     There  was  a  party  of  twelve  at  dinner — several  ladies. 
September  23. — "Yesterday  I  went  a  long  expedition  Avitli  Col. 

I ,  to  see  the  Falls  of  the  Chaudiore.     Wo  crossed  the  ferry 

at  Point  Levi,  and  the  drive  of  about  ten  miles  on  the  other  side 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  nearly  following  the  line  of  the  new  railway 
to  Montreal,  is  very  beautiful :  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right, 
streams  and  rivers  occasionally  flowing  into  it;  and  rough  cliffs, 
and  woods,  and  hamlets,  all  along  the  left  hand.  The  rooks  iis 
some  places  were  shaded  witii  wft  grey,  yellow,  and  brown;  and 


1 


CANADIAN    LADIES. 


68 


all  was  pleasant  but  the  roau,  which  proved  difficult,  rough,  and 
Bometinies  dangerous;  more  than  usually  so  (I  was  told,)  owing  tc 
the  railroad  operations ;  but  the  old  French  Canadian,  and  his 
little  black  horse,  which  drew  our  caUche,  did  not  seem  at  all  put 
o.it,  by  what  in  England  would  have  been  thought  impracticable, 
even  though  the  way  was  evidently  not  well  known  to  him,  and 
he  took  us  three  or  four  miles  above  the  Falls  to  a  railroad  bridge 
over  the  Cliaudiere,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  retrace  our  steps; 
and  tl.is,  witli  the  intricacy  of  the  place  itself,  when  we  got  there, 
wasted  some  time.  The  body  of  water  wliich  comes  down  is  more 
considerable  thnn  that  of  Montniorenci,  and  the  spray  was  too 
wetting  for  us  to  do  more  than  tako  a  glimpse  of  the  Fall  from 
above.  I  believe  we  ought  to  have  been  on  the  other  side,  but 
there  was  not  time  to  remedy  this  mistake,  and  the  view  we  did 
got  was  fine.  We  scrambled  through  a  thick  forest,  and  came 
out,  tlirough  bog  and  brake,  some  way  from  the  place  where  wo 

had  left  the  carriage  ;  so  Col.  I walked  back  for  it,  and  I 

went  on  to  get  a  sketch  of  the  Chaudicre,  where  it  joins  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  sun  was  setting  before  we  got  to  the  shore, 
nearly  opposite  Spencer  Wood,  and  if  we  had  again  taken  the 
roundabout  way,  by  Point  Levi,  wo  might  have  missed  tlie  last 
ferry,  besides  incurring  the  chanCw  of  breaking  down  before  get- 
ting there ;  but  we  were  fortunate  in  finding  a  hospitable  lumber 
merchant  and  his  wife,  who  ■«^Lomnd  us  to  their  warm  and  com- 
foitable  firo-side,  and  sent  us  at  once  across  the  river  in  their 
little  boat.  We  landed  at  a  wharf,  about  two  miles  from  Spencer 
House,  and  got  home  before  eight  o'clock,  so  that  I  had  time  to 
get  some  dinner  and  rest,  before  dressing  for  a  ball,  given  by  Lord 
Elgin,  as  a  ftirewell  to  the  officers  of  the  departing  71st  Regiment, 
which  is  to  euibark  to-morrow  for  England  (Sept.  2Sd).  The 
itauco  was  very  lively  and  brilliant,  and  was  kept  up  till  past 
throe  o'clock  this  morning.  The  Canadian  ladies  certainly 
amuse  themselves  more  easily  and  pleasantly  than  we  do ;  they 
are  more  like  the  French,  in  their  enjoyment  of  passing  moments, 
and  are  generally  ])vetty,  natural,  an<l  well  drowsed  ;  so  that  I 
have  found  their  acquaintance  agreeable.     The  Govvrnor-Gcneral 


m< 


I'lipp 


|!  I 


tltl'%! 


84 


QUEBEC. 


went  in  state  to-day,  to  give  his  assent  to  the  Reciprocity  Bill , 
and  that  glorious  measure  is  now  all  settled,  happily  for  both 
countries.  There  was  a  very  large  dinner-party  here,  almost 
entirely  composed  of  Deputies  and  their  Speakar;  and  we  all 
went  to  bed  considerably  tired  with  the  fatigues  of  the  last  week. 
I  had  intended  to  have  departed  by  this  afternoon's  steamer  for 
Montreal,  but  since  that  arrangement  was  mu'Je,  Lord  Elgin  haa 
decided  upon  going  himself  to  Upper  Canada,  on  Mui/day,  and  tha 
railroad  Directors  have  therefore  made  a  great  erertion  for  the 
purpose  of  conveying  him  along  the  no\f  line,  so  I  shall  benefit 
by  being  of  his  party  as  far  as  Montreal ;  and  thus,  after  all,  es- 
cape that  odious  night  voyage  down  the  river;  besides  which,  I 
shall  have  an  agreeable  drive  through  a  beautiful  country  by 
daylight,  and  do  the  journey  in  eight  hours  instead  of  twelve. 
I  will  write  again  frora  tho  noxt  place,  which  will  probably  be 

Major  C 's,  St.  Helieici,  iieur  Montreal.     No  letters  for  me 

again  1     This  is  very  disappointing. 

Your  affectionate, 

A.  M  M. 

I  shall  get  no  Icfctovri  now  for  three  weeks,  a"  my  tour  in  Up- 
per Canada  will  ttke  at  least  that  time;  and  anything  which 
comes  here  must,  by  forwarded  to  Albany,  care  of  the  Goverpo^ 
of  New  York. 


Ks^  ^tr^  ?Uf^  {^\  fQ^/^  r'^^  f^  fQ^^  ^^  (^  fW:  ^ 


LETTEK  IX. 


MONTEEAL. 

Montreal,  September  27. 

My  dear  Friends, — 

By  seven  o'clock  yesterday  morning,  Lord  Elgin  and  his 
suite  were  ready  for  embarkation  in  a  rowing  boat  which  was  to 
cross  the  St.  Lawrence  from  the  Cove  beneath  Spencer  Wood. 
The  weather  proved  favourable,  less  cold,  and,  though  rather 
damp,  not  rainy.  Quebec  looked  fine  in  the  misty  atmosphere, 
the  citadel  looming  above  it,  and  much  shipping  upon  the  river 
below.     1  felt  sorry  to  leave  that  beautiful  place,  but  we  had  an 

agreeable  passage  across ;  and  a  little  boy,  the  son  of  Mr.  K-; , 

only  ten  years  old,  sang  Canadian  boat  songs  with  great  spirit. 
On  the  opposite  shore  we  found  Sir  Cusack  and  Lady  Rowney, 
and  the  chief  conductors  and  engineers  of  the  Great  Trunk  Rail- 
road, waiting  with  a  car.  They  gave  us  a  plentiful  lunch  on  our 
way  to  Richmond,  where  we  joined  the  original  line.  That  place 
and  Melbourne  are  on  each  side  of  the  St.  iJ'rancis  River,  both 
prettily  situated.  This  single  line  from  Quebec  is  in  so  unfin- 
ished a  state,  that  as  yet  there  are  no  fences,  and  it  required  some 
skill  and  caution  to  avoid  smashing  the  cattle  which  had  strayed 
upon  the  way.  We  were  often  suddenly  brought -up  for  this 
reason ;  and  once  tho  coupling  of  the  engine  broke,  from  tijo  un- 
sottlod  stute  of  the  trams,  and  v/o  saw  the  macliinc  running 
off  from  us  without  its  followiiigs;  however,  no  harm  ensue',  we 


m':''^ 


S6 


VICTORIA  bihdqe:. 


caught  our  horso  again,  and  it  wotit  on  so  rapidly  as  to  comploto 
our  journey  i:i  about  seven  hours.  Opposite  Montreal  we  found 
tho  Beaver )  a  powerful  steam-vessel  belonging  to  the  trumpany, 
awaiting  Lord  Elgin's  nrrival.  She  took  us  up  'in  spite  of  tho 
stream  running  like  a  mill  raee)  to  the  site  of  the  works  for  the 
stupendous  tubular  bridge  which  is  in  progress.  The  Governor- 
General  laid  a  first  stone  for  the  second  pier,  in  the  bed  of  the 
St.  Ijawrenco.  Wc  were  then  rowed  across  a  rppid  to  tlie  first, 
which  is  already  a  mass  of  most  beautit'ui  solid  masonry,  strong 
enough  to  resist  even  the  winter  ice  and  Hoods  of  tliis  gigantic 
rivov.  A  trowel  was  given  to  me,  and  1  was  invited  to  put  in 
the  mortar  for  a  cori\er-stono  of  twelve  tons  weight,  which  we 
then  saw  lowered  into  its  place;  to  renniin,  as  far  as  human  oycs 
can  ju'lr*.\  as  loi.g  as  the  world  lasts.  The  material  used  is  a 
hard  black-looking  limestone  (and  I  heard  of  organic  remains  be- 
ing sparingly  dispersed  in  it) — probably  Silurian.  After  much 
cheering  for  the  Queen  and  the  Uovernor-General,  and  the  future 
\'ietoria  ]?ridge,  we  steamed  \ip  the  river  again,  and  landed  Lord 
Elgin  at  the  Lake  Cham  plain  railroad  station,  Albany,  being  his 
best  route  for  London,  Upper  Canada,  where  he  goes  to  attend 
an    agricultural    meeting.      My    Canadian    acquaintance,    Mr. 

K ,  brought  me  here  to  his  sister's  house,  which  I  find  a 

prettj-  villa,  rather  out  of  the  town,  with  an  extensive  garden 
overlooking  Montreal  and  the  St.  Lawrenoe. 

Scpiemhcr  -8. — I  went  yesterday  to  seek  out  all,  my  baggage, 
whicli  came  up  by  the  Bteamer,  as  it  could  not  readily  bo  carried 

over  chasms  in  the  railway.     After  visiting  Lady  11 ,  and 

the  intelligent  seedsman  Sheplievd,  at  whose  house  I  saw  some 
very  good  drawings  executed  by  his  daughter  (both  flowers  and 

figures),  I  returned  to  Blrs.  J 's«  and  after  lunch  she  and  Mr. 

J ,  with  the  other  gentlemen,  took  me  a  drive  to  see  the 

cemetery,  which  is  being  established  upon  a  finely-wooded  hill, 
about  three  miles  from  3Ioutreal.  Wc  drove  back  by  the  light 
of  a  brilliant  ynmg  moon,  which  promises  well  for  my  three 
wi-eks'  tour  in  Upper  Canada.  This  morning  I  spent  hi  the  town 
of    3Iontreal,    nuiking  some  arrangements,   and   re-packing  my 


ST.   IIILAIRB. 


87 


baggage,  so  as  to  forward  every  thing  which  I  do  uot  require  for 
Upper  Canada,  to  await  my  arrival  at  Albany.     At  three  o'clock, 

Mr.  J took  me  to  the  Ferry  Wharf,  where  we  found  Major 

C ,  whose  place  I  had  engaged  to  visit.     After  crossing  the 

river,  wc  had  about  twenty-five  miles  of  railroad  to  his  newly- 
built  house,  St.  Ililaire,  on  the  Richelieu, — a  river  as  wide  as 
the  Thames  at  Battersca.  A  sweeping  curve  brought  us  up  to 
the  station,  after  going  over  a  bridge.  We  had  passed  by  the 
farms  and  holdings  of  habitants  attached  to  another  seigneurie, 

before  reaching  that  of  Major  C ;  but  all  these  small  farms 

arc  monotonous,  bare-looking  strips  of  land,  without  a  twig  of 
shelter  upon  them.  The  forests  have  been  mercilessly  c:.tirpatcd, 
and  these  people  have  left  themselves  denuded  of  wood,  and  with 
laud  worn  out  by  their  short-sighted  policy  of  scjueeziug  all  they 
can  out  of  it,  and  giving  nothing  in  return.     This  valley  was 

once  rich  and  productive.     The  good  example  of  Major  G , 

and  the  advantages  of  the  railroad,  may  in  time  induce  these  in- 
offensive but  ignorant  people  to  cultivate  instead  of  racking  their 
land ;  at  present,  I  should  hardly  have  supposed  they  could  draw 
from  it  even  a  scanty  subsistence.  These  seigneuries  are  of  great 
extent  in  square  acres ;  but  the  ground  having  been  let  on  from 
father  to  son,  at  a  rent  almost  nominal  (about  twopence  an  acre), 
any  arrangement  that  will  change  a  system  so  antiquated  as  their 
manner  of  farming,  must  be  a  good  one  for  both  landlord  and 
tenant.  Some  kind  of  adjustment  like  that  which  was  recom- 
mended in  tho  speech  of  the  Governor-General,  will  probably  be 

made  by  the  Legislature  this  session.     Major  G has  built  a 

pretty  Elizabethan  house,  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  will  serve  as  a 
model  for  an  improved  style  of  architecture  in  this  land  of  ugly 
edifices ;  it  is  backed  by  tlie  fine  river  Richelieu,  and  about  three 
miles  in  front  are  tho  well  wooded  and  picturesque  mountains  of 
Bellcisle,  which  belong  to  his  seigneurie ;  they  stand  alone,  in  the 
Qat  district.  There  is  tho  Mount  of  St.  John,  probably  of 
volcanic  origin,  but  looking  like  a  peaked  barrow,  about  seven 
miles'  distantio  j  but  othorwisQ  tho  country  is  level  aR  far  as 
Montreal:    and  from  the  summit  of  Major  C 's  hill  tho 


88 


A   PRETTY   EDIFICE. 


view  is  most  extensive  on  every  side,  embracing  four  rivers  and 
four  lakes — the  St.  Lawrence,  Ottawa,  Richelieu,  and  Yamasee 
rivers ;  Lake  Champlain,  that  of  the  Two  Mountains,  Lake 
Richelieu,  and  Lake  Chambly. 

September  29. — Major  and  Mrs.  C took  me  after  break- 
fast to  walk  about  the  mountain,  and  to  see  the  hotel  he  is  build- 
ing, in  n  very  pretty  situation,  upon  the  lower  part  of  it.    I  found 
some  iuteresting  plants,  and  made  sketches — one  of  a  small  lake 
in  the  bosom  of  the  mountain,  which  is  believed  to  fill  up  an  ex- 
tinct crater.     Basaltic  and  other  igneous  rocks  scattered  about, 
are  evidences  of  the  nature  of  these  hills ;  and  one  feels  grateful 
to  an  outbreak  which  has  so  beautified  the  landscape.     Excellent 
apples  grow  in  the  numerous  orchards  at  the  base  of  Belleisle, 
and  here  the  people  make  a  good  deal  of  cider,  besides  manufac- 
turing maple  sugar  in  quantities  during  the  month  of  April.     I 
saw  no  flowers  about  the  plank-houses,  and  their  absence  throws 
an  air  of  desolation  over  the  lianilcts  ;  but  it  must  be  remembered 
that  their  inhabitants  have  a  winter  so  long  and  tedious,  that 
during  the  short  summer  the  time  of  the  men,  and  of  the  women 
also,  is  so  occupied  by  necessary  agricultural  and  domestic  labours, 
that  they  have  none  to  bestow  upon  floriculture.     Driving  homo 
I  saw  many  little  wooden  troughs  under  the  trees  in  the  forest ; 
I  thought  at  first  that  they  were  for  pigs  to  feed  from,  but  they 
are  receptacles  for  the  maple  sugar.     Young  trees  produce  the 
whitest  and  purest  syrup  ;  and  a  frosty  night,  followed  by  a  bright 
sunshiny  day,  is  the  only  weather  which  induces  a  good  flow  of 
sap.     I  do  not  see  why  we  could  not  make  maple  sugar  in  Eng- 
land, unless  it  is  that  the  sun  is  not  sufficiently  powerful  during 
our  spring.     I  saw  a  large  closet  at  St.  Hilaire,  filled  with  cakes 
of  varying  purity ;  they  looked  very  like  a  coarse  brown  soap 

In  the  house.  Major  C has  his  oflice  for  the  seigneurie — 

resembling  the  magistrate's  room  of  an  English  country  gentle- 
man ;  and  Mrs.  C has  her  room  for  the  reception  of  the  poor 

who  are  sick  or  sorry,  where  she  aifords  them  aid  and  advice, 
She  is  mnch  beloved  amonff  them,  but  never  wives  monev.  This 
place  will  be  very  pretty  when  finished,  and  as  complete  and 


1 


M 


ill 


SILVER  HEIGHTS. 


88 


comfortable  as  the  residence  of  an  English  Sqiiire.  It  is  brick, 
with  stone  ornaments ;  and  the  interior  is  fitted  up  with  carved 
oak,  appropriate  to  the  Gothic  stifle  of  the  building.  After 
spending  a  pleasant  day,  I  took  the  cars  at  three  o'clock,  and  re- 
turned to  my  friend's  house  at  Montreal  by  eight  in  the  evening. 

September  30. — Silver  Heights,  Banks  of  the  Ottawa. — I 
left  Montreal  to  embark  in  a  steamer  at  La  Chine,  whither  wo 
went  by  the  railroad — a  beautiful  drive.  I  was  surprised  to  find 
the  Ottawa  another  lake-like  river,  extending  in  both  directions, 
and  looking  as  if  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  could  never  con- 
tain its  waters,  while  there  is  much  greater  beauty  and  variety  on 
its  own  shores.  The  first  part  of  our  voyage  of  thirty  miles  was 
a  splendid  one :  we  reached  Carillon  about  three  o'clock ;  there  I 

found  a  note  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  F :  and  Captain  W , 

with  his  two  daughters,  drove  me  to  this  place.  It  is  now 
twenty-five  years  since  he  became  a  settler.  At  that  time  the 
undertaking  of  building  and  clearing  must  have  been  a  fearful 
one ;  but  they  have  now  a  fine  farm  and  an  enjoyable  home,  to 
which  steam  and  electricity  already  add  the  comforts  of  jociety, 
and  afibrd  a  rapid  communication  ^  ith  the  world ;  but  when 
Captain  and  Mrs.  W.,  as  a  young  coupie,  sat  down  in  the  bush, 
what  a  store  of  patience  and  energy  must  have  been  required  to 
endure  and  to  conquer  the  difficulties  of  their  situation  !  As  we 
proceeded,  there  were  Bome  Indian  villages  at  intervals  on  the 
river  banks  :  priests  landed  occasionally  from  our  boat ;  and  once 
I  saw  two  comfortably  clothed  squaws,  with  long  cloaks,  and 
baskets  of  wood  at  their  backs,  get  into  a  canoe  at  the  edge  of  the 
water;  but  wigwams  and  tomahawks  seem  almost  out  of  date 
hereabouts. 

October  1. — We   left   Silver   Heights    yesterday ;    Captain 

W kiLdly  drove  me  in  his  wagon  to  Grenville,  that  I  might 

be  spared  ten  miles  of  a  rough  coach  ;  for  the  rapids  here  prevent 
any  navigation  of  the  river  between  Grenville  and  Carillon.  As 
\ye  were  rather  too  soon  for  "'  .  rkation,  I  walked  on  the  banks 
of  the  Ottawa,  and  picked  up  .  i,  !  curious-looking  fossils  out  of 
the  clay  slate.    It  was  about  fivj  <    ^lock  when  the  boat  reached 


90 


I, A    IKTirU    NATION. 


liiil 


Potito  NatUMi.      A  llnrlvwoodtMl  Awro  oxIoiuKmI  all  tlio  way,  Imt 
no  htriUinjj;  rontuit'.s  in  tlu'  Iuntls('a|M'.     Am  w<'  «li«oiul)iirko(l  from 
tho  HtoanuT,  I  hhw  a  H»iuaw  with   Inn*  papooso  wnip|Mnl  in  lior 
Mankot.     Slu*  tlul  \wl  si'imu  to  (•onjj>n'lu'iul  a  woril  of  French  or 
KiiijfliHh,  and  soon  paihlh'd   away   hi  u  canoo  with  hor  Imsband, 
who  was  thv.sstui  liko  thootlior  pttasantH,  and  I  «honhl  hardly  linvo 
ivj'Oi:;ni/.od   him  an  an  Indian.     Vooph^  wpok  of  tho  '  oxti'miinii- 
tion'of  tho  sava;!;os ;  hot.  I  .xhouhl   rathor  May  that  tho  raoo  Im 
boinij  anud^aniatod  aiid  ahsortx'd  in  fhat  i>r  oi\  ih/.tHl  nuMi.     It  is 
suit!  horo  that  tho  priosts  ruh»  tho  Uotnan  C;i     olio  Indian.s  with 
a  rod  of  iron;  that  they  do  not  poriuit  thoni  to  ai'cuundalo  prop- 
erty, but   that  tho  C^huroh  k«>op.s  a  hohl  ovor  thoir  nu'an.s ;  and 
that,  in  consoiiuonoo  of  tho  dospotio  rnhi  of  oooh^MlastifS  at  (Jlaim 
l*oi»»t  (an   Indian  t^otthnnont  wo  pansod  yoMtorch'iy),  tho  pi'oph>  aro 
fast   oniisjratinjj  to    Hytown ;    but  still   it  appoars  t*)    me    that 
.Roni!»u  tV»th(dioisni  is  host  adai)tod  for  oivili/.in<;  the    Indians. 
The  iMter  plaoo  dorivos  its  natno  from  u  Captain  ]Jy,  who  was 
tin  l«>H*..funuM»t  Suporintondont  of  i\\c  Kidoau  Canal,  whioh  ox- 
tonds  i'^va  this  part  of  tho  oi>untry  to  KinpUon.     Tho  oity  is  in 
t\itnro  to  bo  called   Ottawa.      M.   Fapincau   rccoivod   mo  very 
kindly  at  IVtito  Nation.     It  is  not  more   than  fivo  or  six  years 
sinco  ho  was  his  own  architect,  and  built  tho  pretty  stono  houso 
ho  now  iidiabits  with  liis  faniily,  after  he  gave  up  political  life. 
This  has  Won  a  wot  day;  but  I  am  fortunate  in  being  detained 
iu  a  idaoo  whore  I  can  benefit  bv  tho  conversation  of  an  a<2:reoable 
anvl  well-informed  luvst.     Speaking  about  the  proposed  arrange- 
ment of  the  seigneuries.  ^l.  I'aplnoau  fears  that  the  prepouder- 
aneo  of  I'pper  Canada  in  t'lo  Legislatno  may  lead  to  an  un- 
just  solution  of  that   question.      It   is  proposed  to  make  the 
seigne\irs  sell  their  reserved  lands,  he  sjiy.^s.     Where  a  man  has 
purchased  a  seigneurio  at  a  prieo  which  has  never  been  remu- 
nerative, oxpecting  one  day  to  make  a  fair  interest  for  his  money, 
it  would  bo  injustice  to  euforee  a  sale.  Just  as  the  approach  of 
eiviliitation   is  giving  value   to  tho  purchase;    but  even  if  tho 
Canadian   representatives  are  rogardloss  of  the  rights  of  iudi- 
v'duals,  I  cannot  believe  that"  any  English  Governor-Goueral, 


•# 


TIIIC    MASSACflK. 


91 


♦  ! 


"Ti!    "4  an 


Ind 


iim  cucump- 


th(!  river,  and  I  Hhall 


took   II- 


tind    mc 


nmoli  I(!SH  tli(!  proHont  one,  would  giv(5  hi  banotion  to  uny  uct 
of  spoliation. 

(h/ohcr  li. — A  vt>ry  pic  sln^and  inttdli^unt  youn^:;  curt'  drank 
l(!a  liort)  liiHt,  ni<j;lif.     Jl»!  told  luo 
mcnt  H((uiittod  down  on  tin;  otln  r 
liopo  to  ^o  iind  Hoo  it. 

Artir    brcaid'ast,  Moiisiour 
aoroMS  tlio  rivor  to  viHit  llio   Indiu!  .    their  wigwaniH,  ho  it 

HCnuiH  tlu^y  aro  not  (|uit(!  extirpalcsl  i\->nii  thJH  j)art  of  the  coun- 
try, 'riic-t^  p('(»|ili!  bolon;^  t.  this  trilx;  of  AUoconciuinn,  once  ho 
jiowcifiil  ah>n_i,'  thd  shoicH  of  tiu^  Ottawa.  'J'lxiy  wen;  designated 
as  the  '  f/ri<i(,  nation,^  and  were  gtmerally  hm-ce  and  warlike;  hut 
upon  the  ground  now  occupied  hy  tlie  Mcigneurie  of  M.  J'apiiicau, 
the  Ficneh,  upon  their  iirst  vinit,  f()un<l  a  peaceable  and  gcntlo 
Hottleincnt  of  iiati\ cs,  whom  th(!y  (hisignatcd  as  '  La  Petite  Na- 
tion ; '  hence,  the  preweut  nunie  of  the  plac(;.  With  theae  inof- 
fon;-:ive  navagi^H  the  strangerH  fraternized,  and  in  conHCfjucnco, 
their  fiercer  brethren  of  the  Indians  raised  the  war-whoop,  poured 
down  in  inuubers,  and  with  fire  and  tonialiawk  destroyed  the 
I'etite  Nation,  and  murdered  nearly  all  their  white  guests.  Upon 
this  oecnrrcnce,  the  l^'rench  (jiovctrnment  gav(!  up  any  attempt  to 
settle  on  these  shores,  and  refused  i)ermission  to  individuals  to  do 
so.  It  was  not  till  af^er  the  Englisli  con(piest  of  Canada  that 
the  Ottawa,  river  became  by  degrees  the  residence  of  Europeans. 
There  were  only  a  few  wigwams  at  the  place  where  wo  landed  ; 
we  sp'tke  to  un  old  tVOiMan  and  her  two  daughters,  who  were 
making  boxes  of  birch  bark ;  and  to  a  young  and  rather  pretty 
squaw,  with  her  baby  and  her  husband,  who  was  busy  preparing 
the  skin  of  an  elk  for  mocassins.  They  all  spoke  French  a  little; 
and  being  acquainted  with  M.  I'apineau,  they  did  not  shun  con- 
versation. The  woman  was  the  same  who,  when  I  spoke  to  her 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  shook  her  head,  and  pretended  not 
to  understand  me ;  and  this,  it  seems,  is  a  common  habit  if  they 
are  addressed  by  strangers.  All  the  Indians  I  have  yet  seen  are 
waiuily  and  comfortably  clad ;  a  blanket  or  dark  cloak  being 
their  outer  covering,  and  they  hav?  good  strong  shoes  and  stock- 


^ 
^^^ 

*^*>. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


ut  Uii   12.2 

IS 


■  2.0 

L25  fflU   11.6 


7. 


w 


'/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WItSTH.N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  •72-4503 


^Jk  ^^> 


92 


NATtTBAL    HISTOBT. 


ings.  M.  Papineau  says,  the  aconsations  I  heard  made  againet 
the  priests  at  Point  Clare  are  unjust :  that  they  only  use  their 
influence  to  prevent  the  savages  from  destroying  themselves  by 
*  Firewater ; '  and  that  the  evil  inclined  complain  bitterly  of  this 
check,  and  go  off  elsewhere  to  indulge  those  drinking  propensities 
which  will  be  the  ultimate  ruin  of  the  race.  After  seeing  the  en- 
campment, we  landed  on  the  small  island  of  Vagit  j  there  I  found 
interesting  plants  and  river  shells,  and  made  a  sketch  of  M.  Papi- 
neau's  pretty  Scotch-looking  house,  with  its  two  towers  and  high 
roof.  The  wind  freshened,  so  that  we  were,  soon  obliged  to  has- 
ten to  the  shore  again,  and  returned  in  time  for  the  two  o'clock 
family  dinner;  after  which,  Monsieur  and  Madame  Papineau, 
with  the  lady's  sister  and  sister-in-law,  took  me  to  see  a  very 
handsome  and  well-built  family  chapel,  and  mausoleum,  in  the 
grounds.  The  style  is  solid  simple  Gothic,  with  a  low  belfry, 
like  the  Welsh  chui  ches.  The  interior  has  a  beautiful  roof,  flying 
timbers ;  and  one  or  two  stained  glass  windows,  over  the  door 
and  over  the  altar,  give  all  the  light  that  is  admitted.  Each  side 
is  filled  up  by  large  plain  black  slabs  of  marble,  upon  one  of 
which  will  one  day  be  inscribed  the  names  of  those  who  then  stood 
around  me.  I  liked  this  little  burying-place  better  than  any- 
thing of  the  kind  I  have  before  seen. 

October  3. — A  very  wet  day,  the  wind  blowing  and  the  rain 
raining.  When  it  does  rain  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  the 
down-pour  is  more  continued  and  violent  thau  with  us ;  but  then 
there  are  very  seldom  three  wet  days  in  succession. 

October  4. — After  breakfast  this  morning,  Madame  Papineau 
took  me  to  walk  in  the  forest,  which,  like  that  behind  Mr.  Loring's 
house  near  Beverley,  is  interspersed  with  fine  rocks  of  sienite.  It 
is  now  rather  too  late  for  wild  flowers  in  this  part  of  the  country; 
but  I  found  some  beautiful  ferns,  and  the  first  snake  I  have  seen 
in  America  glided  away  from  our  path  ;  it  was  long  and  slender, 
black,  marked  with  vivid  green,  and  it  was  not  disagreeably  near 
to  us.  Pretty  little  ground  squirrels  ran  about  among  the  rocks ; 
they  are  less  agile  than  ours,  and  want  the  bushy  tail,  but  they 
axe  beautifully  Btriped ;  I  also  saw  a  black-and-white  species  of 


THB  OTTATVA    KlVJCa. 


03 


us:  but  then 


woodpecker,  and  a  partridge,  though  birds  are  generally  scarce. 
The  afternoon  proved  very  wet,  but  M.  Papineau  kindly  accom- 
panied me  to  the  little  wharf,  to  wait  for  the  steamer  to  Ottawa 
city.  We  sat  for  a  considerable  time  iT>  ''ie  parlour  of  the  French 
Canadian  auberge,  as  bad  weather  had  made  the  vessel  rather 
later  than  usual;  and  wo  were  almost  drenched,  whilst  only 
walking  over  the  small  wooden  pier  to  the  boat,  where  it  was  not 
without  a  feeling  of  regret  that  I  took  leave  of  my  courteous 
host,  who  with  his  family  had  made  me  so  kindly  -welcome  to  his 
forest-home.  The  evening  soon  closed  in,  and  I  was  vexed  to 
pass  up  another  fine  river  in  the  dark.     Monsieur  Papineau  had 

speeded  my  departure  in  the  rain,  and  Mr.  M came  with 

his  carriage  to  meet  me  under  the  same  disagreeable  circum- 
stances. 

Wednesday,  October  5. — The  moon  was  hid  by  clouds,  and 
rain  poured  down  as  fast  when  we  left  the  boat  as  when  we  got 
into  it,  almost  wet  through  by  having  waited  five  minutes  on  the 
shore ;  but  the  sun  shines  out  this  bright  frosty  morn.  Having 
heard  much  of  the  scenery  round  Ottawa,  I  was  at  first  disap- 
pointed at  the  bare  look  of  the  place  itself;  for,  excepting  a 
smull  tract  of  forest  left  near  this  house,  the  axe  and  saw  have 
cleared  away  every  tree  around  it;  and  the  buildings  straggle  on, 
nearly  all  the  same  in  form,  though  of  varying  material  and  size ; 
some  were  built  of  wood,  some  of  brick,  and  some  of  a  coarse  kind 
of  granite,  speckled  by  garnets.  When  the  intermediate  space 
shall  be  filled,  (which  is  in  a  fair  way  of  being  accomplished,  for 
buildings  are  rising  up  in  all  directions,  and  one  very  pretty 
Elizabethan  house  is  erecting  for  a  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Mackay's, 
which  will  set  the  example  of  a  more  picturesque  style  of  archi- 
tecture)— a  large  city  will  stand  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers 
Ottawa,  Gatineau,  and  Bidcau.  The  present  town  will  then 
change  its  former  ugly  name  for  that  of  the  Ottawa,  the  largest  of 
these  three  fine  rivers ;  on  the  banks  of  which  it  has  sprinkled 
itself  to  the  extent  of  about  three  miles,  reaching  to  a  handsome 
suspension  bridge,  which  crosses  the  torrent  very  near  the  spot 
where  it  tumbles  down  a  ledge  of  rooks  packed  over  one  another 


u 


FALLS   OF    THE   OTTAWA    AND   GATINEAU. 


in  tabular  masses.  These  falls  are  <rery  grand,  second  only  to 
Niagara.  At  one  place  the  stream,  after  tumbling  over,  enters  a 
large  circular  hole,  and  vanishes  beneath  in  a  whirlpool.  Each 
side  the  river,  slides  of  water  have  been  formed,  down  which  the 
rafts  rush  so  furiously,  that  though  the  men  upon  them  look 
perfectly  cool  and  unconcerned,  I  should  not  much  like  to  be  in 
theii  company.  What  a  turmoil  of  waters  there  must  be  at  other 
times,  since  now  that  they  are  considered  very  low,  the  rush  I  see 
is  80  magnificent !  I  suppose  it  is  well  to  visit  these  falls  before 
Niagara,  but  it  is  worth  while  to  cross  the  Atlantic  for  these 
alone.  About  thirty  years  ago,  the  gentleman,  at  whose  house  I 
am  now  staying,  was  at  these  rapids  late  in  the  evening,  with  a 
lady  now  of  my  acquaintance,  and  upon  her  expressing  a  wish  to 
stand  upon  a  tabular  rock  which  divides  one  of  the  larger  falls 
from  the  caldron  below,  he  carried  her  across  upon  a  drift  plank 
at  the  edge  of  the  toricnt.     It  was  only  by  the  same  way  that 

they  could  return ;  and  Mr.  M allows  that  at  the  moment 

he  repented  his  daring,  for  one  inch  on  either  side  would  have 
been  fatal  to  both.  However,  the  lady  preserved  her  composure, 
and  he  his  courage,  and  so  they  repassed  in  safety ;  but  he  after- 
wards confessed  to  his  wife,  that  he  shuddered  upon  looking  at 
the  place  by  daylight — for  it  was  by  the  light  of  the  moon  this 
feat  was  performed.  Last  year,  a  raft  containing  nine  men  was 
wrecked  just  above  the  falls.  Thousands  of  spectators  crowded 
the  banks,  and  by  means  of  ropes,  the  poor  fellows  were  rescued ; 
but  one  was  dragged  so  far  through  the  torrent,  that  he  was 
brought  senseless  to  the  shore. 

Friday,  Qth — This  morning,  one  of  the  young  Mr.  M s 

drove  me  about  eight  miles  up  the  shores  of  the  Gatineau  (in  some 
places  over  a  corduroy  road,  in  which  the  holes  were  deep  enough 
to  have  smashed  an  English  carriage),  to  see  some  falls  upon  that 
river,  which,  if  not  finer  than  the  Chaudiere  or  the  Ottawa,  are 
still  more  strikingly  situated  :  a  series  of  falls  and  rapids  two  miles 
in  length,  backed  by  hills  of  untrodden  forest,  and  as  yet  unen- 
cumbered by  saw-mills  and  water-slides,  can  be  seen  from  the  as- 
cent above.     It  is  certainly  the  most  beautiful  view  I  have  visited 


OFFICIOUS    CARE. 


m 


in  this  fine  country.     There  is  also  a  lake  near ;  but  time  was 
wanting  to  reach  the  spot ;  and  I  believe  few  people,  except  trap- 
pers and  raftsmen,  have  as  yet  penetrated  farther  up  this  river. 
TLe  post  this  day  has  brought  us  news  of  the  successful  landing 
of  the  army  near  Sebastopol.     I  may  possibly  hear  no  more  till 
wc  get  to  Niagara.     Montreal  papers  describe  Lord  Elgin's  pro- 
gress through  Upper  Canada,  where  he  seems  to  have  been  ex- 
tremely well  received ;  met  by  loyal  addresses  at  every  place,  and 
answering  them  by  impromptu  political,  social,  and  agricultural 
Hpeeches,  which  read  as  well  as  if  they  had  been  carefully  pre- 
pared. I  have  waited  long  here,  vainly  hoping  to  be  overtaken  by  a 
missing  trunk,  in  which  are  all  my  books,  paper  for  plants,  and 
other  things  of  every  day  requirement:  it  was  left  behind  at 
Montreal,  entirely  owing  to  the  intended  care  which  every  body 
evinces  for  our  interests,  so  that  we  find  it  the  most  difficult 
matter  possible  to  take  care  of  ourselves.     Parcels  are  taken  from 
our  hands,  boxes  carried  off  or  retained,  baskets  and  tin  cases  put 
aside,  and  we  never  know  whether  the  li  ggage  is  right  or  wrong, 
either  in  the  United  States  or  in  Canada,  because  every  gentleman 
takes  it  into  his  charge.     American  ladies  are  so  accustomed  to 
be  watched  and  waited  upon,  that  an  independent  Englishwoman 
is  quite  in  despair  at  being  treated  as  if  she  cr  aid  not  take  care  of 
her  own  concerns.     I  never  mislaid  and  lost  so  many  things  in  the 
travels  of  my  whole  life,  as  have  been  dropped  or  left  behind 

since  R and  I  landed  on  this  side  the  Atlantic.     We  never 

know  when  our  baggage  is  accompanying  us,  or  when  it  is  lagging 
behind ;  but  usually  every  thing  turns  up  again  in  due  time.  "We 
must  leave  this  place  at  seven  o'clock  to-morrow,  by  the  Bideau 
Canal  for  Prescott,  or  we  may  not  be  able  to  proceed  before  the 
middle  of  the  week ;  and  though  I  give  up  seeing  Lake  Huron,  ten 
days  will  be  required  to  go  by  Belville,  Coburg,  Toronto,  and 
Hamilton,  before  we  shall  reach  Niagara.  The  season  is  now 
getting  late,  and  I  much  fear  the  great  beauty  of  the  foliage  will 
have  passed  before  I  reach  the  falls.  Some  trees  have  already 
lost  their  leaves — a  change  which  has  occurred  rather  earlier  thau 
usual,  owing  to  the  storms  of  the  first  few  days  of  this  month 


96 


A  FIELD  FOR    ENTEEPRISE. 


Opposite  the  -window  at  which  I  am  writing,  I  now  see  crimson 
maples,  orange  birch,  and  scarlet  oaks,  interspersed  with  dark  furs 
and  bright  green  bceuh,  and  silver  stems  glistening  hero  and  there, 
making  this  corner  of  a  primeval  forest  in  itself  a  picture.  Some 
of  the  charred  black  stumps,  too,  arc  always  to  be  seen  here  and 
there  standing  up ;  at  times  they  look  like  black  points,  or  like 
gigantic  figures  among  the  trees.  I  sympathize  now  more  than 
ever  with  poor  Mrs.  Moodie.  *  Life  in  the  bush'  must  indeed  be 
a  hard  life  for  any  civilized  woman  to  go  through.  With  all  the 
aid  that  capital  and  strong  arms  can  give,  clearing  is  slow  work, 
and  one  sees  land  that  has  been  years  in  cultivation,  still  covered 
over  at  intervals  by  great  black  stumps,  which  look  as  if  they 
might  yet  keep  possession  of  the  ground  for  the  next  twenty  years. 
It  is  impossible  to  grub  them  up  without  such  an  outlay  of  time 
and  trouble  as  is  out  of  the  question ;  and  they  have  already  been 
charred  and  girdled  till  their  durability  has  been  the  more  con- 
firmed ;  so  between  rocks,  and  bogs,  and  timber,  it  takes  a  weary 
time  before  the  poor  settlers  can  grow  more  than  a  sprinkling  of 
potatoes ;  and  I  am  now  fully  convinced  of  the  wisdom  of  Colonel 
Tullooh's  plan,  of  giving  only  very  small  portions  of  land  to  pen- 
sioners, that  an  old  soldier  may  be  prevented  from  attempting  a 
hopeless  amount  of  rxertion,  which  wastes  his  strength  without 
repaying  him  in  food.  Still  this  country  is  a  fine  field  for  capital 
and  talent.  Young  engineers  make  their  fortunes  rapidly.  The 
overlooker  of  a  mill  receive^  one  pound  a  day ;  a  good  foreman 
or  clerk  five  or  six  hundred  pounds  per  annum ;  and  any  tolerable 
workman  may  earn  his  dollar  or  two  each  day — ^more  than  some 
of  our  naval  or  military  officers  receive.  With  a  small  capital 
and  a  good  recommendation,  any  active  young  man  must  prosper 
in  Canada ;  but  industry  and  temperance  are  just  as  necessary 
here  as  elsewhere ;  and  those  who  fancy  they  may  make  money 
without  earning  it  are  worse  off  in  America  than  in  England. 

Sunday  Night,  October  28 — Ottawa. — I  went  to  an  Episco- 
pal church  here  this  morning;  there  was  a  large  congregation. 
The  service  very  respectably  conducted;  a  small  barrel  organ 
accompanied  voices  in  good  tune.     Protestants  and  Roman  Cath- 


OTTAWA.  19 

olios  are  about  equal  in  numbera  here,  and  there  are  chapels  of 
various  denominations.  One  or  two  convents  of  Grey  Nuns,  and 
some  Jesuits,  have  made  this  place  their  head-quarters.  It  is  a 
healthy  situation,  and  no  cholera  has  made  its  appearance,  though 
it  has  prevailed  much  at  Montreal.  Hull,  on  the  other  side  the 
suspension  bridge,  was  settled  before  Bytown ;  it  will  eventually 
be  a  mere  suburb  belonging  to  Ottawa  city.  The  population 
here  is  a  mixture  of  Scotch,  Irish,  French  Canadians,  and  Upper 
Canadians,  with  a  few  Germans  and  Americans.  Bytown  is  in 
Upper  Canada — Hull,  in  lower ;  so  the  Ottawa  divides  the  two 
provinces.  I  will  leave  this  letter  to  go  from  hence,  as  we  start 
by  the  early  steamboat  to-morrow  for  Presoott,  and  this  is  proba- 
bly the  best  locality  from  which  to  ensure  the  transmission  of  a 
packet  for  England — so  I  close  in  haste. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 

Ottawa  Cixr,  ov  the  Ottawa,  Uppbb  Cahaba, 
October  8, 1854 


5 


(Iljli 


LETTER  X. 


LAKE    ONTABIO. 


i 


i 


OoBouBO,  Lakh  Ohtauo,  } 
October  13,  1801        f 

Mt  dear  Friends, — 

I  write  now  from  another  hospitable  villa,  on  the  borders  of 
this  inland  sea.  I  heard  the  sound  of  waves  on  the  shore  last  night, 
as  on  a  calm  summer  evening  at  Brighton.  There  has  not  been 
one  minute  in  which  I  could  put  pen  to  paper  since  we  left  By- 
town,  now  Ottawa  city.  During  this  journey  I  have  come  to  the 
conclusion,  that  there  is  no  dependence  to  be  placed  upon  the 
hours  or  the  distances  named  to  a  traveller  in  Canada  or  the 
United  States ;  you  may  be  informed  as  to  the  usual  hour  for  the 
departure  of  a  steamer,  and  yet  she  sets  forth  half  an  hour  before, 
or  she  may  arrive  at  a  point  whence  to  start  again  at  five  minutes' 
warning,  two  hours  after  she  was  expected.    When  we  embarked 

(with  all  Mr.  M 's  experience)  we  reached  the  Bideau  Canal 

ten  minutes  too  late  for  the  vessel,  which  went  o£f  sooner  than  was 
expected ;  but  as  there  were  four  locks  to  be  passed  here  (thirty- 
seven  ultimately)  we  drove  off  to  catch  her  at  some  convenient 
point,  but  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  she  came  up  to  us,  having 
already  been  left  behind.  The  only  misfortune  was,  that  as  she 
could  not  come  close  to  the  shore,  we  had  to  reach  her  by  means 
of  a  raft,  which  happened  to  be  moored  at  the  edge  of  the  water ; 
both  B and  I  got  soused  over  our  ankles.    We*  were  all  day 


lilt  I 


AUTtJMN    FOREST   TINTS. 


99 


in  sret  things,  the  stove  not  being  powerful  enough  to  dry  us. 
However,  the  excitement  and  interest  of  travelling  are  so  condu- 
cive to  health,  that  we  caught  no  cold,  though,  in  addition  to  wet 
feet,  we  had  a  rainy  afternoon,  and  the  vessel  was  so  small  and 
close,  that  I  preferred  staying  on  deck  under  an  umbrella  to  the 
fihelter  of  a  crowded  cabin.  It  was  consoling  that  Ihe  edges  of 
the  canal  afforded  some  picturesque  views.  We  passed  one  fall, 
and  when  we  got  into  the  wide  calm  stream  of  the  river  itself,  its 
banks  were  interesting.  Here  I  first  saw  true  swamps — wastes  of 
water,  with  occasional  cedars,  stumps,  and  reeds ;  blasted  or  sickly- 
looking  trees  and  shrubs  appearing  at  intervals  above  the  surface. 
To  my  surprise,  among  the  submerged  vegetation  I  saw  now  and 
then  log-cabins,  with  the  heads  of  women  and  children  peeping  out 
of  the  doors  or  windows — ^not  Indians,  but  Europeans.  What 
beings  can  they  bo  who  choose  to  inhabit  such  places  in  a  country 
where  there  is  certainly  no  lack  of  dry  locations !  These  spots 
looked  like  the  personificaticms  of  ague  and  yellow  fever ;  but 
sometimes  the  banks  of  the  Rideau  are  embellished  (like  all 
American  rivers  at  this  season  of  the  year)  with  thickets  of  scarlet 
and  gold,  each  beautiful  form  and  shape  dressed  in  the  most  gor- 
geous colours  possible  to  imagine.  I  suppose  it  is  the  hotter  sun 
and  sudden  night  frosts  which  tint  the  foliage  with  hues  of  a 
brilliancy  unknown  to  us,  though  I  suspect  we  have  not  exactly 
the  same  trees,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  in  our  gardens.  The 
sugar  maple,  the  soft  maple,  and  the  scarlet  and  white  oak,  are 
the  chief  pigments  for  coloring  American  forests.  I  should  like, 
as  an  experiment,  to  plant  enough  of  these  together  in  England 
to  see  if  they  would  dress  themselves  as  becomingly  on  our  side 
of  the  Atlantic :  the  Virginian  creeper  does  so ;  and  then  we  could 
shade  them  with  copper  beech,  which  would  make  the  picture  still 
more  beautiful. 

The  Prince  Albert  steamer  is  little  worthy  of  its  royal  desig- 
nation, for  it  is  the  smallest  and  dirtiest  vessel  I  have  seen  in 
Canada,  excepting,  perhaps,  that  wretched  ferry-boat  at  Point  Levi ; 
but  the  railroads  are  superseding  canals,  and  already  there  is  not 
traffic  enough  to  pay  any  company  for  good  accommodation.     I 


100 


niDEAU   CANAL. 


i: ! 


found  on  board  an  agreeable  lady  from  Norfolk,  who  has  settled 
with  a  brother  in  tliia  country  near  Ottawa.  She  regrets  I  did 
not  visit  the  pretty  place  of  her  relative,  about  six  miles  above  the 
Falls  at  the  suspension  bridge.  This  lady  had  an  excellent  Eng- 
lish maid,  who  was  made  so  happy  by  meeting  with  mine,  that  as 
mistresses  and  maids  suited  equally  well,  we  agreed  to  fall  in  with 
each  other  (if  possible)  again  at  Hamilton,  in  order  to  visit  Nia- 
gara together.  I  disembarked  at  Brookville,  with  a  host  of  Grcr- 
man  emigrants,  all  of  whom  being  unable  to  speak  either  English 
or  French,  they  were  under  the  guidance  of  a  conductor,  who 
appeared  careful  of  hid  charge.  But  there  were  not  carts  or  car- 
riages enough  to  convey  these  poor  people,  with  their  great  boxes 
and  their  bedding ;  and  when  we  got  to  the  railroad-station  at 
Kemp  Town,  three  miles'  distance,  the  train  was  delayed  more 
than  two  hours,  until  the  emigrant  party  could  be  brought  up ;  so 
instead  of  our  reaching  Prescott  early  enough  to  cross  over  to  the 
hotel  at  Ogdensburg,  on  the  American  side  the  St.  Lawrence,  be- 
fore sunset,  the  ferry-boat  did  not  put  us  an(?  our  baggage  on 
shore  till  dark.  Not  a  carriage  or  a  cart  was  to  be  seen  upon  the 
landing-place,  and  we  though  fc  ourselves  in  a  desperate  fix.  How- 
ever, a  good-natured  woman,  who  had  also  crossed  over,  and  who 

was  acquainted  with  the  locality,  set  off  with  R ,  while  I 

stayed  in  charge  of  the  baggage.  They  returned  with  an  old 
Irishman,  driving  his  small  cart.  He  was  very  civil,  and  succeeded 
in  guiding  our  little  party  across  a  rotten  plank  bridge,  and  then 
took  us  safely  through  the  dark  and  rather  difficult  streets  to  a  com- 
fortable hotel.  Canada,  and  this  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  will  now 
advance  rapidly  under  happier  circumstances  ;  but  hitherto  it  has 
evidently  been  kept  back  and  misgoverned,  materially  as  well  as 
morally ;  and  in  consequence,  everything  on  each  side  the  water 
is  twenty  years  behind  other  American  shores — hotels,  convey- 
ances, cultivation,  habits.  During  our  detention  in  the  railway 
cars  at  Kemp  Town,  I  listened  with  interest  to  a  long  political 
conversation  among  some  Upper  Canadian  gentlemen.  They  spoke 
of  Lord  Elgin's  late  visit  to  this  part  of  the  country,  and  they 
3aid  that  it  was  a  well-merited  triumphal  progress,  for  in  their 


SEAT   OF   GOVERNMENT. 


101 


i,  for  in  their 


opinion,  he  had  proved  himself  the  most  honest  and  able  Governor 
that  had  ever  ruled  them ;  and  that  his  giving  up  the  reins  must 
be  a  matter  of  regret  to  all  reasonable  Canadians.  But  (they  re- 
marked) he  has  so  ordered  the  Government  that  it  must  now  be  our 
own  fault  if  evils  are  not  rectified,  and  if  our  country  is  otherwise 
than  prosperous ;  for  we  have  now  a  truly  free  and  constitutional 
executive,  whilst  till  within  these  last  ten  years  our  freedom  has 
been  a  fiction.  Only  time  and  patience  are  now  required,  that 
we  may  learn  how  to  use  our  power  of  self-government  to  the 
best  advantage.  They  spoke  of  the  probability  that  the  seat  of 
government  would  eventually  be  fixed  either  at  Ottawa  or 
Toronto. 

There  is  a  proposal  now  before  the  Legislature  for  erecting  a 
Parliament  house,  and  all  buildings  necessary  for  the  executive, 
at  the  former  place.  But  in  spite  of  the  rapidity  with  which 
everything  is  done  in  America,  it  must  require  many  years  to 
prepare  the  necessary  accommodation  at  Ottawa,  though  the 
growth  oi  Canada,  and  its  central  situation,  may  ultimately  point 
to  that  place  as  the  best  capital  of  the  country.  The  city  has 
several  hills  which  would  admit  of  strong  fortifications.  Three 
fine  rivers  aflford  the  advantage  of  immense  water  power,  and 
there  are  railroads  in  progress,  which  will  be  the  means  of  rapid 
communication  in  every  direction.  It  has  good  limestone,  excel- 
lent clay  for  brick-making,  and  virgin  forests.,  extending  hundreds 
of  miles  towards  Hudson's  Bay,  with  au  active  and  energetic 
population  of  about  sixteen  thousand,  carrying  on  thriving  wool- 
len  manufactories,  and  gigantic  saw-mills.  The  terminus  of  the 
Bideau  Canal  is  surrounded  by  fine  scenery :  I  can  hardly  imag- 
ine a  place  more  likely  to  become  the  site  of  a  great  and  thriving 
city. 

Neither  Quebec,  nor  Montreal,  nor  Toronto,  offers  all  these 
desiderata,  though  the  latter  place,  in  ten  years,  has  increased  its 
population  ninety-five  per  cent.  I  can  imagine  a  vast  empire, 
embracing  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  having  for  its  capi- 
tal *  Ottawa,'  and  with  its  ports  upon  the  sea-coast  and  the  St. 
Lawrence,  becoming  one  day  a  power  equal  to  the  United  States ; 


102 


THE   FUTURE   OF   CAKADA. 


!  : 


these  two  great  nations,  each  encouraging  a  wholesome  rivalrj 
in  the  arts  of  peace  and  good  government,  content  to  be  agreeable 
and  hospitable  neighbours,  without  envying  or  coveting  each 
other^s  possessions,  but  setting  an  example  to  Europe  of  Anglo- 
Saxon  perseverance  and  industry.  This  may  be  no  more  than  a 
pleasant  dream ;  it  may  be  that  nations  will  never  be  convinced 
that  there  is  a  more  noble  game  than  that  of  cutting  throats  and 
robbing  fellow-creatures.  Still,  I  have  better  hopes  from  civili- 
zation and  progress ;  those  who  live  twenty  years  longer,  will, 
perhaps,  be  convinced  such  hopes  are  not  fallacious ;  in  the 
meanwhile  there  is  no  harm  in  hoping  the  best.  I  might  have 
written  this  in  no  very  good  humour  with  things  as  they  are,  for 
our  journey  to  Cobourg  was  the  least  agreeable  of  any  journey 
I  have  yet  made  on  this  side  the  Atlantic. 

Being  told  we  must  be  ready  to  meet  the  Lord  Elgin  steamer 
at  Prescott,  by  seven  o'clock,  Wednesday  morning,  we  crossed 
over  exactly  at  that  hour ;  but  it  was  half-past  nine  before  the 
boat  arrived,  so  for  more  than  two  hours  we  had  to  stand  waiting 
on  the  wharf;  luckily  the  sun  shone,  and  it  was  not  very  cold. 
When  the  steamer  took  us  on  board  we  passed  successfully  through 
the  Thousand  Islands,  and  beautiful  they  are :  of  every  possible 
form,  and  in  size  from  an  acre  to  several  miles,  they  lie  glowing 
and  gleaming  upon  the  blue  waters,  making  the  most  singular 
labyrinth  in  the  world.  Of  course  we  could  not  see  the  half  of 
them.  Arrived  at  Kingston,  we  changed  our  steamer  for  that 
called  the  Bay  of  Quinte.  Upon  one  of  the  smallest  islands  a 
solitary  man  has  resided  in  a  tiny  cabin  for  years ;  he  seldom 
looks  at,  or  is  seen  by,  the  passing  vessels.  He  raises  no  flowers ; 
apparently  he  has  not  even  a  potato  ground  in  cultivation.  What 
can  he  do  ?  I  saw  nothing  like  a  canoe ;  and  it  does  not  seem 
that  he  even  visits  the  opposite  shores.  A  fine  moonlit  evening 
succeeded  our  brilliant  morning ;  about  eleven  o'clock  at  night 
we  hove -to  to  take  in  wood  from  an  island  of  considerable  extent, 
belonging  to  Lord  Mount-Cashel,  which,  I  was  informed,  is  in 
the  market :  it  is  extremely  fertile,  and  has  a  village  with  a  church 


PRIMITIVE   LOCOMOTION. 


lOS 


belonging  to  it.*  By  midnight  we  reached  Belville — another 
dreary  Canadian  town,  where,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  captain's 
assistance,  we  should  have  again  been  without  a  vehicle ;  he  was 
80  obliging  as  to  get  a  small  waggon  of  his  own,  with  a  quiet 
horse,  which  I  was  able  to  drive ;  and  thus  we  reached  a  small 
hotel,  from  whence  we  were  told  a  good  coach  would  start  at  four 
o'clock  in  the  morning  for  Cobourg ;  but  no  beds  were  to  be  had ; 
we  got  a  sitting-room  with  only  a  hard  sofa,  and  a  few  harder 
chairs,  so  I  was  not  unwilling  to  start  at  the  appointed  hour. 
Till  near  three  the  house  was  in  an  uproar  with  the  noise  made 
by  smoking  and  drinking  customers ;  it  was  six  before  the  coach 
(which  turned  out  the  roughest  covered  waggon  I  ever  travelled 
in)  came  to  the  door ;  and  then,  without  any  breakfast,  except  a 
cup  of  miserable  tea  and  a  few  biscuits,  procured  at  a  stopping 
place  by  the  way,  we  were  jumbled  over  very  bad  roads,  forty- 
five  instead  of  thirty-five  miles  to  Cobourg,t  glad  to  turn  out  of 
our  uncomfortable  vehicle  about  five  o'clock.  We  found  some 
difficulty  in  procuring  beds  at  the  hotels,  owing  to  an  agricultural 
meeting  that  day,  and  a  steeple-chase  which  was  ridden  yesterday; 
but  I  had  letters  which  procured  us  the  hospitable  reception  I 
have  found  in  this  house;  and  a  delightful  expedition  to  the 
Rice  Lake  yesterday;  which  was  a  compensation  for  the  un- 
pleasant journey  from  Belville.     Mrs.  H kindly  took  a  drive 

of  fourteen  miles,  to  show  me  that  charming  lake  village,  which 
has  only  been  settled  about  eight  years.  A  half-pay  colonel  was 
the  first  who  bought  part  of  the  Rice  Lake  jhore,  where  we 
visited  him.  Another  pleasing  family  soon  became  his  neighbours, 
and  now  there  is  a  thriving  village,  with  its  hotel  and  church,  in 
the  most  beautiful  situation  possible.  This  lake  may  be  about  as 
large  as,  or  larger  than,  Windermere.  Indians  still  live  upon  its 
shores ;  one  of  their  villages  is  nearly  opposite,  and  a  fine  bridge 
for  the  Peterborough  railway  extends  three  miles  over  the  middle 

*  Here  we  had  entered  in  the  Bay  of  Quiute,  so  called  from  a  Frenchman 
who  first  navigated  it 

t  About  twenty  miles  on  the  Belville  side  of  Cobourg  we  first  saw  Lako 
Ontario,  and  almost  coasted  it  to  the  latter  place. 


104 


BICE  LAKS. 


of  the  lake.  We  crossed  the  Trent  River,  which  flows  from  it, 
upon  a  bridge  some  miles  farther,  on  the  Belville  road ;  the 
country  from  thence  is  highly  cultivated.  We  passed  fields  of 
turnips,  and  orchards  loaded  with  apples,  between  Cobourg  and 
Golburn ;  but  twenty  miles  from  Belville  the  land  looks  poor  and 
dreary,  and  very  little  cleared  from  stumps  and  fallen  timber. 
Cobourg  itself  is  a  clean,  regularly  built  small  town,  with  three 
pretty  good  hotels,  and  many  shops  well  supplied.  A  steamboat 
will  take  us  to  Toronto  at  night ;  it  is  about  sixty  miles'  distance 
on  Lake  Ontario. 

October  14. — I  slept  on  board  the  Maple-leaf  last  night, 
although  we  reached  Toronto  before  eleven  o'clock;  but  there 
were  comfortable  '  state-rooms,'  and  I  had  found  so  much  incon* 
venience  from  landing  at  night  in  strange  places,  that  I  "^hs  glad 
to  accede  to  the  Captain's  proposition  for  our  sleeping  in  the  ves- 
sel. He  greatly  relieved  my  mind  by  an  assurance  that  the  un- 
happy Arctic  was  not  sunk  by  collision  with  the  Cleopatra^  which 
must  have  been  hundreds  of  miles  distant,  but  that  it  was  a 
French  propeller  with  which  she  came  in  contact.  It  does  seem 
an  extraordinary  recklessness  which  causes  these  dreadful  occur* 
rences,  when  railroad  whistles  would  guard  against  them.  Why 
are  they  not  attached  to  every  vessel  ?  They  are  universally 
used  upon  the  American  lakes,  and  the  captains  tell  me  they  can 
be  heard  at  ten  miles'  distance ;  yet  we  submit  to  the  risk  of  our 
vessels  running  one  another  down,  rather  than  make  use  of  this 
reasonable  precaution,  just  as  we  retain  our  separate  railroad  car- 
riages, at  the  risk  of  being  burned,  or  murdered,  or  doubled  up, 
rather  than  travel  in  long  cars,  or  have  a  line  of  communication 
through  the  small  ones.  I  heard  the  other  day  that  one  of  the 
pnblic  carriages  used  on  this  side  the  Atlantic  costs  £750,  but  as 
that  holds  from  sixty  to  eighty  passengers,  I  imagine  it  is  less  ex- 
pensive than  our  compartments  which  hold  six  or  eight ;  and  in 
the  larger  ones  we  have  the  advantage  of  ready  communication, 
and  I  think  more  air  with  less  dust.  We  left  Cobourg  about  one 
o'clock,  and  it  was  a  pleasant  voyage  along  this  sea-like  lake  to 
Toronto.    This  large  town  is  so  English  in  habits  and  appear- 


TOEOKTO. 


lOS 


ance,  that  I  can  hardly  believe  myself  visiting  the  capital  of  Up- 
per Canada.  We  are  in  a  comfortable  hotel,  kept  by  Mrs.  Ellah, 
who  came  from  Plymouth,  and  was  originally  housekeeper  to 
Lord  Seaton.  She  is  very  happy  to  see  English  customers,  and 
we  feel  at  home  in  her  house.  It  was  a  wet  morning  when  we 
landed ;  but  in  the  afternoon  I  drove  to  see  the  cemetery,  which 
in  Canada,  as  in  all  the  towns  in  America,  appears  to  be  placed 
on  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  the  neighbourhood.  That 
at  Toronto  is  culled  Bon-vale.  A  stream  runs  through  the  pretty 
dell  which  forms  part  of  the  enclosure,  and  this,  with  the  hills 
above,  forms  the  burying-ground.  It  is  about  two  miles  from  the 
town,  and  is  also  named  St.  James's  Cemetery.  Here  I  found 
(in  seed)  a  smaller  Anemone  than  that  which  grew  at  the  spot 
appropriated  for  the  same  purpose  at  Hull,  overlooking  the  great 
Falls  of  the  Ottawa — the  only  two  localities  in  which  I  have 
found  Anemones. 

October  15. — ^Fine  early,  but  like  a  cold  March  day  in  Eng- 
land. The  north-westerly  wind  was  high,  having  much  the  sharp- 
ness of  our  easterly  breezes.  This  hotel  is  a  large  square  red- 
brick building,  in  what  is  called  Front-street,  facing  the  bay.  A 
railroad  runs  between  it  and  the  water,  which  here  looks  like  a 
river  not  much  wider  than  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  indentation  from 
the  lake  is  so  deep.  I  see  nothing  like  a  mountain  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, or  even  at  any  distance  from  Toronto ;  and  the  forests 
by  which  the  town  is  backed  are  at  too  great  a  distance.  The 
country  for  some  miles  round  is  flat,  well  cleared,  and  in  good 
cultivation ;  but,  with  the  exception  of  the  little  dell  I  visited 
yesterday,  there  is  no  other  attraction  of  scenery  than  the  ocean- 
like waters  of  Ontario ;  but  the  streets  are  wide  and  well  laid 
out.  When  polished  a  little,  Toronto  will  be  a  noble  city,  though 
Ottawa  may  hereafter  vie  with  it  as  one  of  the  capitals  of  Can- 
ada. 

October  16. — The  cathedral  here  is  a  pretty  new  church,  in 

style,  early  perpendicular.    It  was  built  by  a  young  architect 

from  England,  of  the  name  of  Cumberland,  and  is  very  creditable 

to  his  taste.     The  eastern  termination  is  an  apse  rather  than  a 

5* 


106 


LAKE   ONTAKIO. 


chancel.  I  thought  the  windows  particularly  good,  and  they  will 
be  beautiful  when  a  little  painted  glass  is  introduced,  with  a  due 
regard  to  harmonious  colouring ;  this  happily  must  be  done  in 
small  compartments,  as  the  glass  is  already  thus  arranged  :  it  is 
almost  entirely  in  patterns  formed  by  triangles,  with  a  small  cross 
in  the  centre  of  each  circular  termination ;  but  these  triangular 
panes  are  so  varied  in  size  and  shape  (although  there  are  few 
much  larger  than  the  old  diamond  pane),  that  a  pretty  light  design 
is  the  result  of  these  different  combinations ;  the  lead  which  di- 
vides and  unites  them  is  very  small  and  light.  A  service  was 
performed,  half-an-hour  longer  and  half-an-hour  later  than  any  at 
Quebec ;  so  that  I  did  not  think  it  so  well  arranged  here  as  there, 
where  it  was  conducted  with  equal  attention  to  the  ordinary  rou- 
tine, but  without  tedium.  Yesterday  was  bitterly  cold,  so  that  I 
heaped  on  every  wrap  in  my  possession ;  and  if  this  is  only  a 
foretaste  of  a  Canadian  winter,  I  feel  happy  at  the  idea  of  escap- 
ing from  it ;  for,  though  every  one  tells  me  about  the  delights  of 
sleighing  in  clear,  bright,  frosty  weather,  that  does  not  sound 
tempting  to  me.  This  morning  I  saw  the  new  University,  and 
at  the  Parliament-house  Professor  Hincks  showed  me  his  com- 
mencement of  a  museum  of  natural  history,  already  containing 
some  very  interesting  specimens. 

October  17. — I  left  Toronto  at  two  o'clock  yesterday  by  the 
Highlander.  Having  been  assured  that  wc  should  reach  Hamilton 
in  daylight,  I  was  weak  enough  to  be  again  deluded  by  uncertain 
or  false  information  ;  but  the  steamer  stopped  so  often  at  various 
towns  and  settlements  (among  them  Port  Credit  and  a  pretty  little 
place  called  Oakville),  thrt  it  was  quite  dark  before  we  arrived  ; 

and  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  kindness  of  my  friend  Miss  C 

and  her  nephew,  who  came  down  to  the  wharf  with  their  carriage 
to  take  charge  of  me,  I  should  have  put  up  with  any  accommoda- 
tion on  board,  rather  than  have  run  the  risk  of  another  landing  like 
those  at  Ogdcnsburg  and  Belville, — not  only  disagreeable,  but,  as 
it  appears  to  me,  really  dangerous ;  for  on  these  wharves  there  is 
nothing  to  protect  strangers  from  walking  over  the  edge  into  the 
water ;  and  a  few  weeks  ago,  at  Cobourg.  a  poor  young  woman, 


DEMONSTRATION    AT   HAMILTON. 


107 


carrying  her  infant  (although  she  had  her  husband  with  her)  stepped 
off  the  side,  and  was  drowned,  with  the  child,  before  any  assistance 
could  be  afforded  her.  I  was  hospitably  received  at  the  house  of 
Mr.  B ,  and  passed  an  agreeable  evening. 

October  18. — When  I  came  down  to  breakfast  yesterday,  I  was 
told  the  reason  of  all  the  bell-ringing  and  firing  I  heard  last  night ; 
having  been  so  accustomed  to  noise,  I  went  to  sleep  without  any 
idea  that  news  had  arrived,  after  I  went  to  bed,  about  a  great  victo- 
ry  over  the  Russians,  and  the  taking  of  Sebastopol.  This  came  by 
telegraph  from  New  York ;  and  about  midnight  the  Mayor  and  in- 
habitants assembled,  amid  cheers  for  the  Queen  and  groans  for  the 
Czar,  to  fire  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns ;  and  no  place  in  England 
could  evince  more  joy  and  loyal  feeling  than  the  town  of  Hamilton, 
at  the  west  end  of  Lake  Ontario.  I  understand  there  were  equal 
rejoicings  at  Toronto,  where  a  large  bonfire  was  added,  to  mark  the 
event;  but  some  touch  of  sorrow  for  the  unhappy  victims  of  the 
Eussian  Emperor's  ambition  among  his  people,  and  anxiety  about 
our  own  gallant  friends,  makes  us  rejoice  with  trembling.  It  is 
impossible  not  to  dread  the  details,  while  we  are  thankful  for  the 
results. 

Yesterday,  I  was  taken  a  beautiful  drive  of  sixteen  miles  to 
Ancaster,  an  older  settlement  than  this.  We  first  went  up  what 
is  here  called  the  mountain — a  cliff-like  hill,  supposed  to  ha\e  once 
been  bounded  by  a  vast  sheet  of  water,  which  covered  this  whole 
country ;  so  that  the  northern  shore  of  the  St.  Lawence,  up  to 
Quebec,  was  then  also  another  limit.  In  our  way  back  to  Ham- 
ilton, we  came  by  a  fine  Macadamized  road,  descending  gradually, 
in  a  manner  which  reminded  me  of  Haldon  hill,  in  Devonshire ; 
beautifully  wooded  park-like  ground,  gullies,  and  ravines,  on  our 
right  hand,  terminated  by  a  high  mountainous  ridge,  along  the 
side  of  which  the  London  railroad  is  carried,  passing  by  the  set- 
tlement of  Dundas,  which  has  already  a  population  of  about  five 
thousand,  which  has  located  itself  in  a  pretty  valley  between  the 
hills.  Passing  along  this  district,  I  could  imagine  myself  in  a 
well-cultivated,  picturesque  part  of  England,  if  the  BUperabun- 
danoe  of  timber  and  the  '  snake  fences '  (containing  more  wood 


108 


MILTOV. 


upon  fifty  acres  than  we  should  use  to  fence  five  hundred  in  the 
old  country)  did  not  speak  plainly  of  American  forests.  Before 
the  lapse  of  ten  years,  Hamilton,  following  the  promise  of  most 
Canadian  towns,  will  be  a  large  city.  It  has  already  spread  itself 
out  some  miles,  and  building  is  going  on  in  every  direction.    This 

morning  Miss  G promises  to  take  a  drive  of  fifty  miles  with 

me,  to  find  out  a  family  (settled  at  a  place  called  Milton),  about 
whom  I  am  interested. 

October  19. — I  succeeded  in  discovering  the  M family, 

and  we  were  fully  repaid  for  a  long  drive,  by  the  joyous  gratitude 
with  which  our  visit  was  received.  We  found  Milton  to  be  a 
thriving  small  tuwn  on  the  banks  of  part  of  the  Sixteenth  River 
(why  this  name,  we  could  not  make  out).  An  annual  show  of 
cattle  and  agricultural  produce  made  the  place  like  a  fair,  and 
numbers  of  very  respectable-looking  farmers  were  walking  and 

driving  about.     We  found  two  daughters  of  Mr.  M ;  one  of 

them  wife  of  the  principal  hotel  keeper,  the  other  married  to  a 
well  informed,  gentlemanly  young  map,  the  doctor  of  the  place, 
who  has  good  connections  in  England.  We  dined  with  them,  and 
afterwards  walked  three  miles  with  her  father,  to  his  own  farm. 

We  found  Mrs.  M knitting,  seated  by  a  glorious  log  fire,  and 

everything  around  told  of  the  comforts  and  contentment  of  a  good 
English  farm-house.  These  farms  are  divided  into  what  are 
called  lots ;  each  lot  is  one  hundred  acres.  Mr.  M—  pur- 
chased a  lot  and  a  half.  These  farms  are  much  better  cleared 
from  trees  and  stumps  than  the  land  through  which  we  passed 
from  the  llideau  canal  to  Belville ;  and  this  part  of  Canada  is 
altogether  much  more  advanced  than  the  lower  division. 

We  got  back  to  Hamilton  by  dark,  without  any  diflBculty. 

Next  day,  Mr.  B drove  me  to  the  suspension  bridge,  over  the 

canal,  near  Dundum  Castle,  the  residence  of  Sir  A.  M'Nab ; 
though  a  pretty  situation,  it  is  placed  between  the  lake  and  a 
marsh,  on  which  account  it  is  considered  very  unhealthy.  We 
visited  the  cemetery  enclosing  the  ground  where  the  British  troops 
were  entrenched  before  the  battle  of  Stony  Creek,  By  the  cars 
which  start  at  three  o'clock,  Miss  C  and  Mr.  S--" —  promise 

to  go  with  me  to  Niagara. 


FALLS   OF   NIAGARA. 


109 


October  20. — Niagara. — ^We  had  a  fine  afternoon  for  oui 
journey  to  this  beautiful  place,  and  soon  after  leaving  the  railroad 
cars,  I  got  my  first  view  of  the  Falls.  I  had  not  a  feeling  of  dis- 
appointment ;  they  are  quite  as  magnificent  as  any  imagination 
need  desire.  I  was  told  that  the  Falls  of  Moutmorenci  had  the 
advantage  of  some  feet  in  height ;  but  it  would  be  as  reasonable 
to  compare  the  Thames  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  as  the  Falls  of 
Moutmorenci  with  Niagara  !  I  was  up  before  six  this  morning, 
to  see  the  sun  rise ;  it  appeared  above  the  horizon,  between  the 
village  of  Niagara  and  the  American  Fall,  rather  behind  both  :  a 
fine  red  sun,  promising  good  weather,  I  settled  in  my  own  mind, 
I  would  try  to  make  a  drawing  to-morrow  at  the  same  hour,  with 
the  salmon-coloured  sky  in  contrast  with  the  white  waters.  This 
first  day  it  was  impossible  to  draw ;  I  could  only  look ;  for 
some  hours  we  walked  about ;  I  wandered  into  the  wood  behind 
the  Table  Rock,  or  rather  where  the  Table  Kook  once  was ;  for 
it  has  now  nearly  fallen  into  the  boiling  waters  beneath.  There 
I  gathered  two  of  those  beautiful  flowers  I  first  found  at  Point 
Levi — Lobelia  Kalmii  and  Gentiana  Saponaria ;  and  down  close 

to  the  brink  of  the  river,  above  the  Falls,  Mr.  S and  I  picked 

up  three  or  four  kinds  of  shells ;  one  very  small  bivalve,  differ- 
ing from  any  I  found  in  the  Eidcau.  After  dinner  we  took  a 
carriage,  and  went  over  that  marvellous  suspension  bridge,  below 
the  Falls,  connecting  the  two  shores,  already  open  for  trafiic  be- 
neath, but  not  yet  finished  for  the  railroad  cars  to  pass  over 
above.  I  felt  rather  glad ;  it  was  awful  enough  now  to  pass, 
looking  down  hundreds  of  feet  upon  the  racing  torrent  below.  I 
I  do  not  think  I  could  endure  being  in  a  carriage  upon  this 
bridge,  with  a  railroad  train  rushing  over  my  head,  yet  it  is  con- 
stituted for,  and  believed  capable  of  supporting  all  together.  The 
engineer  is  a  German.  This  is  only  a  little  less  wonderful  than 
the  Montreal  tubular  construction.  Many  people  still  doubt  the 
success  of  both,  and  consider  it  beyond  the  power  of  humanity  to 
pass,  as  proposed,  over  the  chasm  of  Niagara,  or  to  combat  the 
waters  and  ice  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Time  will  show.  My  cour- 
age was  again  tried  in  traversing  the  wooden  bridges  whit^h  are 


L'>i!'li|" 


M:^    i' 


m 


M 


110 


A   FROFITADLE   ESTATE. 


built  over  the  rapids  between  Niagara  city  and  Goat  Islaad.  That 
place  also,  was  quite  different  from  what  either  my  imagination 
or  drawings  had  led  me  to  suppose.  I  expected  to  see  an  unin< 
habited,  rooky,  woody,  small  island,  dividing  the  two  grand  Falls ; 
but  it  contains  fifty  acreb,  the  greater  part  a  grove  of  fine  trees, 
and  upon  one  side  there  are  houses  and  gardens,  with  a  produc- 
tive orchard.  Upon  the  other  shore  it  appears  as  if  island,  and 
trees,  and  people,  must  all  tumble  down  the  Falls  together ;  in- 
deed between  rapids  and  torrents,  it  is  a  marvel  that  Goat  Island 
exists.  I  must  spend  a  day  in  trying  to  draw  here,  though  with- 
out a  hope  that  paper  and  pencil  can  give  any  real  idea  of  the 
truth.  The  news  to-day  is,  that  the  accounts  of  the  fall  of  Sebas- 
topol  are  false,  and  that  we  have  been  rejoicing  without  reason. 
Terrible  fighting  is  still  going  on,  and  already  ninety  British  offi- 
cers have  fallen.     Alas ! 

October  21. — I  covered  myself  with  wraps,  and  put  a  blanket 
round  my  feet,  so  as  to  be  able  to  endure  a  sunrise  from  the 
verandah  long  enough  to  draw  yesterday.  It  rose  red  and  clear, 
and  almost  cloudless,  and  afTorded  the  colouring  I  wished  for. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  B obligingly  called  in  their  carriage,  to  show 

us  the  whirlpool,  where  the  river  suddenly  turns  below  the  sus- 
pension bridge ;  we  went  also  to  the  rapids  beyond  and  above  the 
Falls.  Everv thing  here  is  on  a  larger  scale  than  I  expected, 
though  I  ought  by  this  time  to  be  prepared  for  all.  When  I 
looked  down  upon  the  whirlpool,  and  saw  the  carcase  of  a  wretched 
horse  (which  had,  we  suppose,  been  accidentally  hurried  down  the 
Falls)  twirling  round  about,  and  up  and  down,  in  appearance  like 
a  small  wooden  Dutch  toy,  I  was  in  some  degee  made  sensible 
of  height  and  distance ;  a  house  too,  on  the  rocky,  wooded  point 
opposite,  was  no  more  than  a  speck,  so  that,  by  comparison,  I 
brought  my  ideas  to  something  like  fact. 

The  English  are  accused  of  being  a  grasping  nation  in  re- 
quiring fees  for  sights,  but  nothing  I  ever  met  with  equals  the 
charges  for  the  contemplation  of  Nature  here.  Tlie  possessor  of 
Goat  Island  makes  one  thousand  pounds  a  year  of  those  strangers 
or  visitors  who  laud  on  its  shores ;  but  this  day  we  were  actually 


VIAOAKA. 


Ill 


charged  one  shilling  eaoh  for  only  going  into  the  wood,  from 
whence  a  good  view  of  the  whirlpool  can  be  obtained  I  As  ground 
is  becoming  of  great  value  in  this  neighbourhood,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  require  payment  for  keeping  any  part  of  it  free  from 
the  desecration  of  taverns  and  saw-mills ;  but  a  more  moderate  fee 
would  answer  better  to  the  proprietors,  and  not  act  as  a  prohi- 
bition to  a  large  class  who  have  not  many  spare  shillings  in  their 
pockets ;  penny  postage  proves  that  small  charges  answer  better 
than  large  ones.  This  has  been  another  beautiful  day,  and  I  trust 
we  shall  be  favoured  by  such  weather  during  our  stay  among 
this  most  magnificent,  most  lovely,  and  most  interesting  of  all 
scenery.  Yesterday  was  pleasantly  warm,  and  if  the  sun  shines 
out  for  a  day  or  two  longer,  we  shall  be  as  fortunate  in  temper- 
ature as  possible,  for  earlier  in  the  year  the  heat  and  the  mosquitoes 
are  trying ;  now  we  have  no  reason  to  complain  of  either,  and 
the  great  stream  of  visitors  being  over,  we  are  here  just  at  the 
right  time  for  enjoyment ;  and  I  must  remain  some  days,  for 
there  is  no  end  to  the  beauties  of  Niagara — it  ought  to  be  visited 
for  weeks  instead  of  days ;  besides  the  great  variety  of  views  and 
objects  on  all  sides, — the  ever-changing  appearance  of  the  Falls, 
spray  sometimes  going  up  from  the  centre  in  columns  and  grace- 
ful curves,  now  half  concealing,  now  lessening,  now  enlarging — 
rainbows  starting  across,  and  above  and  below — waters,  snow-like, 
surge-like — aquamarine,  emerald,  sapphire,  swelling,  eddying, 
foaming !  It  is  certainly  worth  crossing  the  Atlantic  for  Niagara 
alone.    I  have  come  to  an  end  of  my  paper,  and  this  shall  go. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


i 


Si^-^}^-^ 


'^^^^'m^'^^^^^i 


LETTEE  XL 


NIAGARA. 


NiAGABA,  October  28, 1854 

My  dear  Friends, — 

Upon  Goat  Island  yesterday,  I  parted  with  the  two  agree* 
able  friends  who  have  added  to  my  enjoymei.t  here  by  sharing  it. 
I  spent  the  whole  afternoon  that  side  the  water,  having  passed  to 
and  fro  by  the  fcriy,  and  mounted  by  the  rail  and  endless  chain, 
at  the  very  edge  of  the  American  Falls.  Both  these  operations 
are  awful,  though  perfectly  safe ;  and  it  required  some  determina- 
tion upon  my  part  to  be  reconciled  to  profit  by  them,  though  they 
put  one  across  the  river  in  half  the  time  required  to  go  round  by 
the  suspension  bridge.  I  tried  to  give  some  idea  of  the  two 
cataracts  on  paper,  which,  at  any  rate,  will  be  recollections  for  my- 
self. I  suppose  it  is  not  possible  to  impress  their  grandeur  upon 
the  minds  of  others  by  any  representations.  For  the  first  time,  I 
felt  rather  angry  at  the  impertinent  kind  of  curiosity  evinced  by 
passers-by  while  I  was  drawing,  because  they  did  not  seem  to 
care  the  least  about  disturbing  or  annoying  strangers  busily 
engaged.  A  well-dressed  woman  said,  in  a  rude  way,  '  Pray 
what  are  you  making  there  ?  You  are  a  Canadian,  I  guess  ? '  I 
replied,  '  I  am  making  nothing;  I  am  trying  to  draw.'  '  Oh,  you 
are — how  do  vou  do  it? — where  do  vou  come  from?'  I  felt 
provoked,  and  said, '  I  am  sure  you  are  an  American.'  '  Well, 
how  do  you  know  that  ? '    *  Because  you  ask  so  many  questions, 


RtAOAKA. 


113 


October  28, 1854 


a  Canadian  would  be  more  civil'  This  answer  was  effectual,  and 
she  turned  away.  Since  my  stay  here,  I  have  observed  more  of 
UD]lcasant  manners,  as  I  have  read  of  them  in  books,  than 
fell  in  my  way.  during  my  tour  from  Boston  in  August;  and, 
certainly,  among  the  secondary  classes,  I  see  little  of  the  marked 
attention  supposed  to  be  shown  to  ladies  in  tb  States.  Last 
night  in  the  ladies'  saloon  here,  two  gentlemen  kept  possession  of 
the  most  comfortable  arm-chairs  all  the  evening,  and  when  Miss 

C and  I  entered  the  room,  round  which  was  a  circle  of 

strangers  from  various  localities,  not  one  among  them  rose  to  offer 
us  seats,  so  we  walked  out  again  up  and  down  a  corridor  till  some 
of  these  people  absquatulated.  This  might  be  accidental,  but  I 
do  not  think  it  could  have  occurred  in  the  old  country.  It  seems  to 
me  that  the  Americans  mistake  rudeness  for  republicanism,  and  in- 
civility for  independence.  Nationally,  I  mean,  for  of  course  there 
is  polished  society,  as  I  have  been  perfectly  ready  to  admit.  Yes- 
terday, a  lady  from  one  of  the  Southern  States  remarked,  that 
we  '  English  still  owed  America  a  grudge  for  what  was  past.'  I 
could  not  help  assuring  her  she  was  mistaken,  for  that  neither 
man,  woman,  nor  child  in  the  British  Isles  now  troubled  them- 
selves about  the  war  of  American  Independence,  except  to  think 
their  ancestors  unwise  for  having  fought  about  it.  The  day 
before  yesterday,  I  was  busy  making  a  little  sketch  from  the 
verandah,  when  I  felt  a  hand  familiarly  laid  upon  my  shoulder. 
Of  course  I  supposed  it  was  a  lady  with  whom  I  had  some  ac- 
quaintance, but  when  a  strange  voice  asked  a  question,  I  turned 
round :  it  was  with  no  small  degree  of  astonishment  that  I  found 
the  liberty  was  taken  by  a  perfect  stranger,  a  young  lady,  appa- 
rently about  twenty,  who  had  been  one  of  the  last  arrivals.  She 
did  not  seem  the  least  daunted  by  the  expression  of  surprise 
which  must  have  passed  over  my  face,  but  went  on  questioning 
me  with  the  coolest  manner  imaginable  1  The  Indians  and  their 
squaws  have  the  manners  of  gentlemen  and  ladies,  and  it  does 
seem  curious  that  even  individuals,  among  a  people  who  are  so 
anxious  to  assume  the  names  of  gentility,  should  remain  so 
wholly  ignorant  of  the  manners  which  are  supposed  to  indicate  a 


114 


MANNERS   OF    THE   SQUAWS. 


Buperior  station  and  a  refined  education.  I  do  not  the  kast 
quarrel  with  the  simplicity  of  the  Bush,  and  the  poor  woman 
who  took  possession  of  the  pattern  of  my  gown,  and  the  men  who 
claimed  a  right  to  my  sketoh-book,  were  most  welcome ;  but  the 
mixture  of  assumption  of  high  breeding  with  inattention  to  the 
common  rules  of  politeness,  not  even  that  natural  feeling  of 
regard  which  a  common  Anglo-Saxon  blood  originates,  can  make 
one  excuse.  Indeed,  I  think  our  relationship  makes  it  more 
galling,  for  a  parent  is  always  observant  of  the  errors  of  her 
children,  and  it  is  perhaps  in  some  degree  the  fault  of  the  mother 
country  v/hen  her  descendants  arc  unpolished.  She  may  well  be 
proud  of  the  energy  and  perseverance  of  her  large  American 
family :  it  is  to  bo  hoped  that  some  day  their  young  people  ^ay 
add  graces  from  the  old  country  to  the  agility  of  the  new,  and 
that  they  will  not  be  ashamed  of  cultivating  the  virtue  of  filial 
atfeetion,  which  at  present  they  seem  to  conclude  would  be  a  feel- 
ing derogatory  to  their  rising  dignity.  At  this  juncture  it  is 
ditiicult  to  believe  that  parts  of  the  Democratic  Union  actually 
sympathize  with  Despotic  Russia  rather  than  with  Free  England ! 
I  do  not  believe  this  to  bo  the  case  with  the  flower  of  the  land,  or 
with  the  really  superior  and  enlightened  of  her  sons ;  but  I  fear 
many  would  sympathize  in  a  wish  I  heard  heartily  expressed  by  one 
of  them,  *  That  the  old  country  might  get  well  sold,  and  thoroughly 
whipped  during  the  present  war ! '  No  details  have  yet  arrived 
of  the  Alma  battle,  excepting  that  there  has  been  sad  loss  of  life. 
The  first  news  was  probably  falsehood,  spread  by  the  Kussians, 
with  the  view  of  creating  dissatisfaction  when  the  real  facts 
became  known ;  but  what  must  be  the  weakness  of  a  despot  who 
can  resort  to  such  expedients  to  bolster  himself  up — conduct 
more  like  the  futile  struggles  of  a  maniac,  than  the  efforts  of  a 
powerful  Sovereign.  Before  going  to  Albany,  I  intend  to  visit 
the  neighbourhood  of  Sandwich,  and  of  Detroit  and  Cleveland; 
and  to  do  this,  we  must  again  pass  throup^h  Hamilton  and  return 
to  Niagara;  but,  as  I  shall  have  no  other  opportunity,  I  must 
take  advantage  of  this  last  week  in  October,  go  from  hence  to- 
morrow, and  return  for  one  night  to  this  house  on  my  way  into 


AN   OLD    IRISHWOMAN. 


116 


tho  States.    It  is  satisfaotorj  that  a  good  reason  exists  for  seeing 
Niagara  once  again. 

October  24. — A  beautiful  day,  with  a  bright  young  moon  is 
the  evening.  I  was  out  alono  from  morning  till  dusk.  While 
sitting  sketching  on  the  hill,  an  old  Irishwoman  accosted  me,  but 
with  a  very  different  tone  and  manner  from  those  people  I  met 
with  yesterday.  'Ah,  ma'am,'  she  said,  'you  are  from  the  ould 
country;  and  sure  you  are  making  a  plan  of  the  glorious  waters.' 
'  How  do  you  know  I  am  from  the  old  country  ? '  'An'  sure  then, 
an'  don't  I  know  English  ladies  at  once ;  they're  so  busy,  an'  they 
don't  dress  as  fine  as  our  folks.'  I  found  she  had  been  twenty-five 
years  in  Canada ;  that  she  has  eight  sons  and  daughters,  a  good 
husband,  cows  and  horses,  a  thriving  farm  here,  and  one  hundred 
acres  of  land  at  Toronto,  and  now,  she  said,  she  no  longer  fretted 
to  go  back  once  more  to  Ireland,  because  '  Isn't  the  dear  ould 
father  dead  at  last ;  and  he  one  hundred  and  eight  years  of  age, 
and  iiever  had  a  doctor  till  the  last  hour,  and  was  able  to  keep  his 
church,  two  miles'  distance,  till  he  was  laid  on  his  bed  a-dying.' 
She  told  me  she  had  given  her  children  a  good  education,  and 
'  that  her  daughters  were  not  dressy,  nor  her  sons  drinkers."  It  is 
singular  that  these  Irish  people  are  so  different  in  their  habits 
away  from  their  own  land.  There  is  an  electric  telegraph  in  com- 
munication with  all  the  lines  from  this  place  in  the  house.  Mr. 
Shears,  the  master,  conducts  it ;  he  sent  a  message  to  Sandwich 
for  me  last  night,  and  one  for  a  military  officer  to  Quebec ;  and 
we  had  both  replies  in  half  an  hour.  This  hotel  belongs  to  a  com- 
pany :  it  is  by  far  the  most  pleasantly  situated  at  Niagara ;  those 
on  the  other  side  of  the  water  have  no  views  of  the  cataract.  The 
vibration  caused  throughout  this  building  by  the  falling  waters 
makes  every  door  and  window  shake ;  but  it  is  not  enough  to  dis- 
turb the  rest  of  a  traveler,  and  one  soon  gets  accustomed  to  it. 
Besides  the  main  hotel,  there  are  several  small  separate  houses 
behind,  which  can  be  taken  for  the  summer  or  for  short  periods, 
by  families  who  prefer  a  more  domestic  life,  I  cin  hardly  imagine 
pleasanter  summer  residences. 

October  26. — Detroit,  National  Hotel. — Again  I  had  the  mis- 


116 


LAUSf   Iftlt    AND    ST.    CLAIB. 


^'  travelling  last  night  for  three  honrs  in  the  dark — thua 
prettiest  of  the  scenery  between  this  place  and  Niagara. 


':'    ;i        V 


fortu' 
losing  i> 

The  first  |  *  of  the  railroad  line  from  V  ^milton  runs  through 
monotonous  ibrcdti^,  only  occasionally  broken  by  clearings  and 
rising  towns.  We  passed  through  the  township  of  Dundas,  and 
by  Paris,  Prince  Town,  London,  &c.,  and  crossed  over  the  River 
Thames,  which  is  but  a  small  stream  even  comparing  it  with  our 
Thames ;  but  for  America  it  is  little  more  than  a  brooklet,  at  least 
that  part  I  saw.  As  far  as  I  could  judge  by  the  bright  starlight, 
for  about  twenty  miles  from  this  place  the  road  is  carried  along 
a  fine  terrace  overlooking  the  country  towards  Lake  Erie,  and  as 
we  approached  Detroit,  Lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair  looked  beau- 
tiful, with  shores  dotted  by  lights  from  the  towns  of  Windsor 
and  Detroit.  They  were  so  numerous  that  it  appeared  like  an  il- 
lumination. Our  journey  was  less  pleasant  than  any  I  have  yet 
made,  owing  tc  the  crowded  state  of  the  railroad  cars ;  though  the 
train  was  a  long  one,  some  passengers  were  actually  obliged  to 
stand  the  whole  distance.  This  crowd  was  ovving  to  the  numerous 
emigrants  who  are  coming  up  the  country ;  and  several  little 
children  wailed  and  fretted  all  the  afternoon,  evidently  tired  and 
exhausted  by  continued  travelling.  However,  the  people  were 
good-humoured  and  patient ;  I  heard  no  cross  words,  saw  no  ill- 
natured  scrambling;  every  one  appeared  to  make  the  best  of 
things  as  they  were ;  and  though  we  were  near  two  hours  after 
our  time,  there  vas  nothing  like  a  grumble.  The  station-master 
was  so  civil  as  to  take  me  across  the  water,  as  he  recommendp ' 
this  hotel  as  more  comfortable  than  those  c^  the  Canada  sido 
We  passed  over  in  a  few  minutes  in  such  a  magnificent  steal  cv 
(where  people  from  the  railroad  cars  found  a  comfortable  meal 
ready  prepared  in  the  saloon)  that  it  was  only  like  walking  through 
a  good  house.  Ornclu  lamps,  mirrors,  and  sofas — it  was  difficult 
to  realize  the  fact  tt,.  ^^e  I'avo  been  journeying  through  the  back- 
woods of  Canada.  I  n  surprifc.i;d  to  find  Detroit  already  a  city 
of  forty  thousand  inilishil  uta,  and  one  of  <he  finest  I  have  yet  seen 
on  this  side  of  the  Atlautic.  A  large  open  space  in  the  centre 
will  8ome  of  these  days  be  a  magnificent  square.    There  are  a 


A  PERFECT  PAirOEAMA. 


117 


mimber  of  churches,  chiefly  with  spires.  Th^  streets  ar  wide, 
some  of  them  planted  with  avenues  of  trees.  The  town  contains 
two  very  large  hotels,  besides  many  smaller  ones.  The  one  I  in- 
habit has  a  dining-room  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length, 
capable  of  contair  log  four  rows  of  tables  in  the  width,  a  ladies' 
saloon,  andotLt^A  riM.ojs  in  proportion;  and  I  am  told  the  Biddle 
House  ir  cr,  lallj  commodious.  Almost  all  these  places  have 
lantern;)  in  iLq  '  f.  After  breakfast,  the  master  took  me  up  to 
the  ^13  >  ire,  from  which  the  view  astonished  me.  I  have  heard 
there  is  no  place  in  the  world  from  which  you  can  see  five  miles 
in  every  direction,  except  from  the  top  of  the  highest  mountains, 
but  this  place  belies  that  assertion :  it  is  a  perfect  panorama,  and 
as  there  are  no  hills  in  this  part  of  the  country,  one  sees  in  every 
direction  from  ten  to  twenty,  and  possibly  thirty  miles.  On  one 
side  Lake  St.  Glair,  with  the  beautiful  River  Detroit  connecting 
it  and  the  Lake  Erie  (about  twenty  miles  distant).  The  town 
runs  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  Windsor  and  Sandwich,  both  in 
Canada,  on  the  other  shore.  Numbers  of  vessels  are  passing  and 
repassing,  and  there  is  an  uninterrupted  water  communication 
through  all  these  fine  lakes  and  rivers,  two  thousand  miles,  to  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  What  an  empire  this  will  be  when  all  its 
resources  are  developed  1  And  they  are  developing  with  great 
rapidity ;  for  of  all  the  towns  I  saw  in  passing  from  Niagara  yes- 
terday, not  one  was  in  existence  twenty  years  ago. 

October  27. — ^Yesterday  afternoon  Mrs.  P came  to  call, 

and  kmdly  brought  me  at  once  to  this  place,  Park  Farm,  in 
Sa  .  Ich.  We  crossed  the  river  without  moving  from  the  car- 
riage, and  arrived  at  the  house  in  time  to  take  a  walk.     Colonel 

P has  not  gone  upon  the  usual  plan  in  this  part  of  the  world 

— that  of  rooting  up  the  forest,  without  any  idea  of  leaving  orna- 
mental timber ;  and  his  place  is  beautified  by  woods,  at  proper 
intervals,  while  the  cultivation  of  the  land  is  that  of  an  English 
farm.  The  Colonel  tolls  me  there  is  fine  shooting  all  about 
here— deer,  within  ten  miles.  Yesterday,  he  and  his  son  brought 
in  as  many  snipes,  woodcocks,  and  a  small  kind  of  quail,  as  they 
chose  to  shoot. 


118 


A   PENITENT    RUNAWAY. 


R.,^.j. 


October  28. — A  dreadful  accident  occurred  very  early  yester- 
day moruing,  near  Cliatham,  about  fifteen  miles  from  Detroit; 
upon  the  same  railroad  by  which  wo  came  from  Niagara.  Some 
trucks,  filled  with  gravel,  were  proceeding  at  the  rate  of  sixteen 
miles  an  hour,  actually  in  front  of  the  express  train,  going  at  the 
rate  of  forty.  Of  course  there  was  a  collision ;  three  or  four  of 
the  first  cars  were  smashed ;  and  it  is  believed  that  sixty  or  sev- 
enty persons  are  killed ;  exact  particulars  have  not  yet  reached 
us ;  but  this  seems  one  of  the  most  fatal  of  all  the  railroad  ca- 
tastrophes, and  caused  entirely  by  carelessness.  There  was  a 
dense  fog  at  the  time  it  occurred ;  but  surely  the  gravel-trucks 
had  no  business  in  the  way  of  the  coming  train.  I  am  surprised 
at  the  large  number  of  blacks  and  coloured  people  hereabouts ; 
nearly  all  the  lowest  population  appears  to  consist  of  them ;  they 
are  idle,  and  very  insolent  in  manner.  I  met  with  an  English 
clergyman  on  board  the  Lake  Ontario  steamer,  who  was  on  his 
way  to  this  country,  with  the  intention  of  making  an  effort  to  civ- 
ilize and  educate  the  negroes  who  have  settled  here.  He  told 
me  there  are  at  least  twenty  thousand,  chiefly  runaway  slaves,  in 
Upper  Canada.  One  of  the  evils  consequent  upon  Southern 
slavery,  is  the  ignorant  and  miserable  set  of  coloured  people  who 
throw  themselves  into  Canada.  Colonel  P  told  me  yesterday 
he  was  brought  out  home  from  Windsor,  by  a  black  driver,  who 
told  him  he  had  *  run  away  from  his  good,  kind  massa,'  years  ago ; 
and  that  though  he  was  free,  and  able  to  get  his  own  livelihood, 
he  had  never  ceased  to  repent  his  folly.  The  black  should  be 
educated  for  freedom,  or  he  is  not  the  happier.  If  mere  chil- 
dren, sent  into  the  world  unfit  to  guide  themselves,  negroes  suffer 
more  by  freedom  than  by  servitude  ;  and  I  must  regret  that  the 
well-meant  enthusiasm  of  the  Abolitionists  has  been  without 
judgment.  Dr.  Howe,  Mr.  Dillon,  and  others  devoted  to  the 
real  welfare  of  the  black  race,  all  are  of  opinion  that  in  their 
case,  as  in  many  others,  ill-judging  friends  have  proved  worse 
than  enemies  ;  and,  without  having  been  among  the  planters,  my 
observation  in  the  States,  of  the  majority  of  free  blacks,  already 
leads  me  to  the  same  conclusion.     It  is  not  a  question  between 


SCARCITY    OP    SERVANTS. 


119 


the  wickedness  of  a  system  of  human  bondage  and  the  duty  of 
shaking  it  off,  but  one  as  to  the  wisdom  of  getting  rid  of  an  evil, 
witliout  making  use  of  common  sense  in  the  manner  of  curing  it. 

Colonel  and  Mrs.  P took  me  a  drive  yesterday  afternoon 

along  the  shore  of  the  Detroit  (which  is  rather  a  strait,  twenty 
miles  long,  connecting  the  Lakes  St.  Clair  and  Erie,  than  a 
river).  It  looks,  in  some  places,  from  five  to  seven  miles  wide ; 
and  there  is  no  more  stream  than  that  movement  which  is  occar 
sioned  by  a  slight  difference  of  level  between  the  two  waters. 
Some  fishermen  were  fishing  for  white  fish,  and  a  kind  of  fresh- water 
herring.  The  nets  were  taken  out  in  boats,  as  in  England ;  but, 
when  the  ends  were  to  be  drawn  in,  the  rope  was  fastened  to  a 
windlass,  and  a  horse  trotting  round  and  round,  soon  brought  the 
net  on  shore — a  saving  of  both  time  and  labour.  I  saw  a  curi- 
ous kind  of  fish-lizard  brought  out ;  it  wa;;  about  two  feet  in 
length  from  the  end  of  the  tail  to  its  round,  cat-like  snout ;  it 
crawled  along  the  ground  on  its  short  legs  and  tortoise-like  feet, 
aud  was  altogether  a  disgusting-looking  beast.  The  fishermen  said 
its  bite  was  very  poisonous,  and  it  had  the  yellowish  brown  lurid  look 
which  seems  to  appertain  to  venomous  reptiles;  but  Dr.  Kirt- 
land  says  it  is  perfectly  harmless.  We  induced  them  to  throw  it 
back  into  the  water,  where  it  probably  exercises  some  virtues  not 
to  be  guessed  when  it  is  seen  out  of  its  natural  element.  I  found 
many  little  fresh-water  shells  on  the  shore,  and  one  mussel,  with 
a  wing  appendage  almost  like  that  of  a  rostellaria.  A  sunset 
more  lovely  than  any  I  have  before  seen ;  it  promised  fine  wea- 
ther— ^a  happy  promise  for  me,  as  I  find  myself  again  obliged  to 
take  part  of  my  voyage  to  Cleveland  by  night.  No  steamer 
leaves  Detroit  earlier  than  four  o'clock  to-day;  but  I  shall  have 
daylight  for  the  river,  so  I  must  be  reconciled  to  being  in  dark- 
ness on  Lake  Erie,  with  the  consolation  of  a  moon,  now  some 
days  old.  Such  quantities  of  apples  here,  rotting  on  the  ground 
for  want  of  hands  to  gather  them.  The  negroes  will  not  take  that 
trouble,  even  for  pay ;  and,  in  spite  of  the  great  eniigratiou,  la- 
bour is  much  wanted :  people  are  in  distress  for  both  out-of-door 
and  in-door  servants.     I  walked  with  Mrs.  P down  to  the 


' 


f  I' 


120 


SANDWICH. 


river :  many  black  and  mulatto  children  were  playing  about 
near  some  small  log-houses,  close  to  a  marsh,  on  its  shore ;  one 
clean-looking  intelligent  girl,  about  seven,  helped  to  look  foi 
shells,  and  then  asked  me  to  visit  her  mother,  who,  she  said,  was 
sick  in  a  hut  close  by.  I  followed  the  child,  and  found  her 
mother  in  bed,  quite  alone,  with  the  exception  of  a  tiny  black 
babe,  only  two  hours  old,  by  her  side.  She  received  me  cordial> 
]y ;  conversed  in  a  cheerful,  intelligent  manner,  and  said  she  was 
brought  by  a  lady  from  Maryland  to  this  place,  twenty  years 
ago,  when  only  seventeen  years  of  age ;  this  kind  mistress  gave 
her  freedom,  and  she  married  a  husband  of  her  own  colour,  who 
works  in  the  boats.  I  said,  *  Are  you  glad  to  be  free  ? ' — *  Oh, 
am  I  not  ?  it  is  only  the  ignorant  and  the  lazy  ones  who  do  not 
care  to  be  free;  but  then  they  be  most  so.'  She  has  three  girls 
alive,  besides  her  baby-boy,  whoso  arrival  makes  her  very  happy, 
because  she  has  lost  three  boys.  Everything  around  this  woman 
spoke  of  tidy  and  cleanly  habits ;  a  little  Bible  well  bound  was 
on  the  table  close  to  her  bed,  and  other  comforts  evinced  educa- 
tion and  order  beyond  the  usual  negro  habits. 

I  afterwards  visited  the  hut  of  an  old  negro  washerwoman, 
who  lived  alone,  and  seemed  a  kind,  industrious  old  soul.  In 
the  other  houses  of  the  black  people,  I  was  told  I  should  find 
nothing  but  dressy,  saucy,  idle  folk.  We  were  in  Detroit  to  meet 
the  steamer  at  four  o'clock ;  then  it  was  discovered  she  would 
not  start  till  night,  and  after  spending  many  tiresome  hours, 
waiting  and  expecting,  the  Ocean  did  not  get  undc'  way  till  near 
midnight ;  and  when  on  board  I  found  out  I  might  have  set  off 
by  nine  o'clock  this  beautiful  morning,  if  I  had  gone  by  a  boat  to 
Sandusky,  whence  a  railroad  would  have  carried  me  to  Cleveland 
before  dusk,  and  I  should  have  steamed  up  the  Detroit  Eivcr, 
with  a  bright  sun  over  my  head,  instead  of  traversing  it  when 
even  the  early  moonlight  was  over.  En  revanche,  I  had  a  fine 
sunrise  on  Lake  Erie.  I  have  now  passed  one  night  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  one  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  last  on  Lake  Erie, 
besides  two  or  three  landings  in  the  dark ;  and  this  obscure  mode 
of  travelling  is  so  usual  on  this  side  the  Atlantic,  that  it  requires 


CLEVELAND. 


121 


some  perseverance  and  energy,  really  to  acquire  knowledge  about 
localities  in  America.  To-morrow  I  shall  set  forth  by  rail  to  Baf« 
falo — in  daylight  I  hope;  so  that  only  the  last  part  of  my  jour- 
ney will  be  in  the  dark,  and  I  shall  reach  Niagara  by  moonlight. 
These  late  slaughtering  railroad  accidents  are  enough,  I  should 
think,  to  counteract  the  American  and  Canadian  predilection  for 
night  travelling.  But  it  does  appear  as  if  these  active  people 
would  rather  sacrifice  their  lives  than  lose  an  hour  of  their  time 
while  they  do  live.  '  Dollars  and  time,  time  and  dollars,'  should 
be  the  motto  on  this  side  the  Atlantic.  Cleveland  is  another 
pretty  place,  with  streets  as  wide  as  those  of  Detroit,  and  a  grow- 
ing population  of  forty  thousand.  New  churches  here  also  starting 
up  in  every  direction.  Beligion  has  certainly  her  due  place  in 
the  hearts  of  the  inhabitants,  though  the  worship  of  Mammon  may 
here,  as  elsewhere,  compete  with  a  better  faith. 

October  30. — Here  I  am  still  at  Cleveland,  in  spite  of  my 
resolution  to  return  to  Niagara  this  evening :  but  it  was  quite 
impossible  to  resist  the  temptations  offered  by  the  kindness  of  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Kirtland,  and  we  slept  last  night  at  their  house,  five 
miles  from  hence.  His  garden  was  the  first  I  have  ever  seen 
since  that  at  Cambridge,  which  offered  many  objects  of  interest. 
Besides  other  plants  new  to  me,  I  gathered  berries  of  a  singular 
colour,  greenish  blue,  from  an  Ampelosis,  with  briony-like  leaves. 
Dr.  Kirtland  has  paid  great  attention  to  the  improvement  of 
fruits,  particularly  cherries,  and  he  is  a  most  scientific  naturalist ; 
his  birds,  stuffed  and  arranged  by  himself,  excel  those  of  Water- 
ton;  and  the  manner  in  which  his  entomological  specimens  are 
preserved  is  quite  unique  and  admirable ;  they  are  in  frames,  with 
glass  behind  and  before,  so  that  they  can  bo  observed  on  all  sides, 
and  when  held  up  to  the  light,  while,  being  rendered  impervious 
to  air  and  unassailable  to  insects,  they  are  indestructible.  I  am 
promised  a  specimen  case,  which  will  be  an  invaluable  example  to 
collectors  and  museums  in  Europe.  Dr.  Kirtland  was  also  so 
obliging  as  to  give  me  numerous  shells  from  the  fresh  waters  of 
this  district,  which  differ  from  those  I  found  on  the  Ottawa  and 
3n  the  shore  of  Lake  Champlain ;  and  this  morning  he  took  me  a 
6 


122 


BATTLE   OF   THE  ALMA. 


'.  !  J! 


walk  through  the  forests,  where  I  found  a  great  deal  of  tho  pretty 
Cornus  florida,  and  seeds  of  a  Geradia,  differing  from  that  growing 
near  Lake  Winnipiseogee.  The  oak  most  common  here,  is  called 
the  grey  oak:  there  is  another  with  chestnut-shaped  leaves  and  a 
long  acorn,  and  one  with  deeply  cut,  small,  shining  leaves.  The 
Sassafras  and  three  or  four  species  of  poplar  also  grow  in  this 
forest,  but  no  evergreens ;  and  none  are  to  be  seen  between  a 
place  called  Paynesville  and  Detroit,  unless  in  gardens;  no  firs, 
no  cedars,  no  Lignum  vitae  (which  grows  so  beautifully  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ottawa  and  the  Gatineau,  and  again  at  Niagara) ; 
but  the  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs  is  greater  here  than  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Sandwich,  where  the  forests  are  principally  beech, 
and  the  white  and  scarlet  oak,  with  tamarisks  in  the  swamps. 
The  orchards  at  this  place  are  very  productive :  peaches,  cherries 
and  excellent  apples.  Among  the  last,  the  true  golden  pippin 
and  nonpareil.  Dr.  Kirtland  is  famed  for  his  cultivation  of  fruit 
This  evening  I  have  been  much  interested,  having  for  the  first 
time  read  tLe  details  of  the  sad,  though  successful  battle  of  Alma ; 
but  our  heroes  have  not  died  in  vain — they  died  as  missionaries  of 
truth  and  civilization.  Those  English  and  French  soldiers  who 
have  fallen  side  by  side  at  the  battle  of  Alma,  have  sealed  with 
their  blood  a  lasting  alliance  between  their  respective  nations; 
and  thousands  of  serfs  will  go  to  school  in  England,  and  there 
learn  that  they  are  men.  I  came  back  to  sleep  at  the  Weddell 
Hotel,  where  the  accommodation  is  excellent,  and  we  hope  to  as- 
certain exactly  the  hour  when  a  railroad  train  starts  for  Niagara 
vid  Buffalo,  to-morrow  morning.  One  comfort  is,  the  time  of 
the  cars  cannot  be  so  difl&cult  to  discover  as  that  of  the  steamer 
Ocean,  at  Detroit,  where  we  walked  up  and  down  the  wharves  for 
more  than  two  hours,  without  being  able  to  find  out,  from  any  man, 
woman,  or  child,  where  the  great  steamer  had  hid  herself !  Peo- 
ple in  these  rising  cities  are  all  too  busy  to  know  anything  that 
does  not  concern  their  immediate  objects. 

November  1. — Niagara. — To-day  wo  go  to  Canandaigua,  hav- 
inff  safelv  returned  last  niorht  to  this  nlace. 

November  2. — Owing  to  the  impossibility  of  getting  correct  in* 


CAYUGA    LAKE. 


123 


formation,  I  was  sent  across  country,  and  we 'were  all  day  on  the 
American  shore  of  the  Falls.  '  At  half-past  seveu  in  the  evening 
the  cars  did  start,  but  before  eight  we  were  brought  to  a  stand- 
still ;  for  the  engine  and  the  two  first  carriages  ran  off  the  line, 
owing  to  some  miscreant  having  removed  a  rail.  No  person  was 
injured,  but  for  six  mortal  hours  we  were  kept  waiting  until  trains 
came  up  each  way,  so  as  to  allow  of  an  exchange  of  passengers 
and  luggage ;  and  it  was  seven  in  the  morning  before  the  cars 
which  received  us  at  the  place  of  stopping  reached  Canandaigua. 
The  lake  there  is  not  so  picturesque  as  most  of  those  I  have  seen ; 
but  there  is  a  nice  small  town,  and  the  house  from  which  I  write 
is  the  most  comfortable  and  best  appointed  of  any  I  have  yet  seen 
in  the  United  States.  Ithaca  will  be  our  next  halting-place ;  it 
is  upon  the  Cayuga  Lake.  ^ 

November  5. — Cayuga  Lake,  Ithaca. — In  our  way  to  this 
place,  yesterday,  we  came  by  rail  to  Cayuga  Bridge,  and  there 
awaited  the  steamboat  Forest  City,  to  carry  us  forty  miles  down 
the  lake  to  Ithaca.  During  the  three  hours  of  our  detention, 
I  took  a  walk,  made  a  sketch  of  the  place  from  a  spot  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  off,  and  found  a  plane  tree,  which  appears  to  me  to 
differ  from  both  the  oriental  and  occidental,  though  rather  more 
like  the  latter.  It  is  here  called  button  tree,  from  its  hanging, 
round  seed-vessels.  I  gathered  some  of  the  latter  nearly  ripe, 
and  also  a  leaf  Upon  the  weeping  elms  it  is  interesting  to  see 
the  little  nest  of  the  hanging  Oriole,  which  thus  builds  out  of  the 
reach  of  danger  from  terrestrial  enemies — boy,  beast,  or  reptile. 
Whether  they  have  winged  assailants  I  do  not  know.  A  wind 
from  the  north  yesterday  was  very  cold,  and  on  board  the  steam- 
boat I  was  obliged  to  confine  myself  to  the  cabin ;  the  shores  of 
these  lakes  are  pretty,  and  we  touched  at  a  village  called  Aurora, 
a  very  rural-looking  spot.  I  saw  many  nice-looking  houses,  with 
a  better  show  of  flowers  and  of  well-kept  gardens  than  is  common 
in  America ;  and  as  we  advanced  towards  Ithaca,  rocks  and  pic- 
tnresque  gullies  became  frequent ;  the  country  hilly  and  broken. 
A  railroad,  carried  to  the  end  of  the  long  pier,  received  us  on  our 
lauding,  and  took  the  passengers  to  Ithaca,  a  mile  beyond,  where 


;ri 


fm 

m 


I'll 

l|i 


it-     ;V' 


IF  '■",. 


124 


ITHACA. 


I  found  Mr.  G had  obligingly  brought  hia  carriage  to  take 

me  to  his  home.  Sunday :  a  bright  sunshiny  morning,  like  a  fine 
November  day  in  England.  The  leaves  here  hq^ye  nearly  all  fal 
len,  and  it  is  time  to  give  up  touring  in  the  Northern  States ;  but, 
as  I  understand  the  election  for  the  Governorship  of  New  York 
takes  place  on  Tuesday,  and  that  on  that  day  Governor  Seymour 
will  either  be  re-elected  or  supplanted,  I  shall  remain  here  to* 
morrow,  and  sleep  at  Syracuse  on  Tuesday,  se  as  not  to  pay  my 
visit  at  Albany  until  the  election  day  is  over. 

Ithaca,,  November  6. — Snow  and  ice ;  bitter  cold  north-east 

wind,  so  that  though  Mrs.  G kindly  drove  me  out  to  make 

a  sketch  of  the  place,  we  were  both  too  cold  to  fulfil  our  inten- 
tions of  visiting  some  of  the  waterfalls  in  the  neighbourhood*  I 
could  only  view  one  of  the  most  considerable  from  a  distance. 
It  has  a  height  of  between  two  and  three  hundred  feet,  and  must 
be  fine  when  water  is  abundant.  From  the  great  depth  of  these 
falls,  the  stream  now  looks  only  like  white  gauze  spread  over  the 
rocks,  and  it  disappears  in  foam.  A  gentleman  told  me  that  the 
derivation  of  the  word  Bavine  is  Havel,  £:czi  the  waters  being 
ravelled  out  as  they  tumble  down. 

Syracuse,  November  7. — We  came  fifty  miles  round  yester- 
day, through  the  Valley  of  the  Susquehanna,  to  avoid  retracing 
our  way  by  Lake  Cayuga.  A  new  railroad  was  opened  only  last 
month,  from  a  place  called  Binghampton  (about  thirty  miles 
from  Ithaca)  tc  Syracuse.  Oswego  was  our  first  stopping  place ; 
the  inconvenience  of  choosing  an  indirect  route  being,  that  we 
have  to  change  cars  twice.  Two  gentlemen,  to  whom  I  was  intro- 
duced before  leaving  Ithaca,  Mr.  Cox  and  Mr.  Parker,  reside  at 
Oswego.  A  fine  example  of  engineering  is  displayed  in  getting 
the  cars  up  the  steep  hills,  by  forward  and  retrogressive  move- 
ments, with  a  switch  at  one  point ;  so  that  the  pretty  '  Forest 
City,'  Ithaca,  is  seen  at  various  distances  several  times  during 
the  first  five  miles  of  the  ascent ;  but  no  chains  are  used.  The 
country  has  a  wintry  appearance — snow  upon  the  hills,  and  even 
a  little  by  the  wayside.  "We  passed  through  part  of  the  pictu- 
resque Valley  of  the  Susquehanna,  following  that  river  close 


HOMER. 


126 


upon  its  banks  some  way.  There  I  saw  timber-trees  of  the  hem- 
lock spruce ;  and  at  a  large  town  called  Homer,  five  churches, 
each  of  considerable  size,  all  in  a  row,  without  any  intervening 
houses.    No  time  or  room  for  more. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


,.  i^l;! 


i. 


fm 


f'll'ii 


i  .    !i.' 


11!! 


rii! 
lit! 


iliii 


.1 


&i 


^ 


'O  ^  O  ^  O  ^  ^  O  ^.O  ^ro  ^  O  ^C>  '^..O  ^.O  '^,0  O^ 
'  O  O-O  ^  o  ^  O  '^  .o  '^  o  '^..O  '^  O  O-O  ^..o  '^.O  o  k^ 


LErrER  xii. 

ALBANY. 


Albany,  Nkw  YonK, 


\ 

My  dear  Friends, — 

A  snowy  morning  at  Syracuse  made  it  impossible  to  see 
anything  of  that  town,  or  its  salt-works;  the  Taluable  briny 
springs  there  so  cheapen  one  great  necessary  of  life,  that  I  am 
told,  twenty  miles  off,  a  largo  barrel  of  salt  may  be  purchased  for 
a  dollar.  The  ladies'  saloon  at  the  hotel  where  I  slept,  exhibited 
that  usual  absence  of  occupation  which  I  have  remarked  at  all 
such  places — rocking-chairs,  lounges,  and  ennui/  One  young 
lady  took  something  like  a  small  tract  in  her  hand,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  was  asleep  on  a  sofa — this  at  half-past  ten  in  the  morning. 
When  a  gentleman  came  in,  and  asked  for  her — *  Oh  I '  said 
another  lady,  her  companion,  '  she's  asleep ;  but  she'll  wake  up 
by  dinner  time.'  And  this  information  was  not  given  the  least 
in  a  satirical  tone.  We  left  Syracuse  by  the  eleven  o'clock  train 
during  a  thick  snow-storm ;  but  at  noon  sunshine  broke  out.  We 
passed  through  a  fine  country  by  Kome,  Utica,  and  Schenectady, 
skirting  the  river  at  the  latter  place.  At  Little  Falls  such 
abundance  of  rocks !  I  longed  to  stop  for  a  botanical  ccramble 
among  them.  Perhaps  next  June,  when  the  weather  is  more 
favourable  for  a  visit  to  Utica  and  Trenton,  I  may  be  again  at 
this  place.  By  five  o'clock  our  train  reached  Albany, — a  pleasant, 
rapid  journey  of  ninety  miles,  during  which  the  cars  slided  safely 


GOVERNOR   BBYMOUR. 


Wl 


and  pleasantly  along.  No  troublesome  companions — ^but  some 
pretty  young  ladies  behind  me  appeared  to  think  themselves 
privileged  to  laugh  and  talk  louder  than  any  one  else,  because 
they  were  better  dressed ;  and  a  gentleman  in  front  evidently 
considered  it  the  bounden  duty  of  an  American  citizen  to  be 
bearish.  In  the  hope  of  softening  his  temper,  I  oflFered  him  the 
morning  paper ;  he  took  it  without  the  smallest  acknowledgment, 
and,  when  done  with  it,  put  it  down  without  even  returning  it. 
Whether  he  discovered  we  were  '  British,'  and  an  anti-English 
feeling  possessed  him,  I  don't  know ;  but  still  there  was  a  spice 
of  kindness  lying  under  his  sulky  manner,  for  when  a  poor  old 
woman  and  a  girl  entered  the  car,  ho  removed  his  valise,  and  gave 
them  his  seat. 

While  stopping  at  one  of  tho  stations,  a  tall  handsome  Indian 
girl,  with  some  bead-work  in  her  hand,  entered  the  car ;  she  wore 
a  picturesque  dress,  with  a  black  hat  and  feather,  and  silently 
presenting  her  wares  without  importunity,  she  glided  on.  The 
noisy  and  reckless,  or  ungainly,  sulky  manner  of  those  around 
contrasted  unfavourably  with  the  subdued,  unobtrusive,  graceful 
dignity  of  the  squaw.  Nature's  gentlemen  and  gentlewomen,  the 
Indians  have  a  true  courtesy  and  a  simple  politeness,  which  might 
be  advantageously  copied  by  those  who  are  their  superiors  in 
knowledge  and  power. 

The  Goveriior  of  New  York,  to  whom  I  was  introduced  at 
Newport,  met  us  at  Albany  station,  and  I  am  now  at  his  house. 
In  the  midst  of  a  severe  contest  with  two  opponents  (an  election, 
for  which  the  votes  amount  to  500,000),  ho  preserves  a  manner  of 
calm  indifference  which  his  friends  do  not  emulate.  I  confess 
myself  deeply  interested  in  the  result^ — not  so  much  for  Mr.  Sey- 
mour's sake  (because  with  his  love  of  country  pursuits,  and  his 
freedom  from  weak  ambition,  t  really  believe  his  personal  happi- 
ness will  rather  be  increased  than  diminished  by  a  return  to 
private  life) ;  but  because  I  believe  the  welfare  of  this  large  popu- 
lation to  be  well  cared  for  while  the  power  is  in  his  hands.  In 
England  we  have  but  little  idea  of  the  influence  exercised  by  the 
local  Governors  in  the  Union.     Governor  Seymour  has  the  un 


l,.'v 


:,   .1       i-T 


128 


A   TKA9SATLANTIC  WEDDHTO. 


limited  power  of  pardoning  criminals,  and  is  also  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  ihe  Army  and  Navy  of  this  '  Empire  State.'  He  holds 
his  office  for  two  years  only,  unless  re-elected  at  the  end  of  that 
time.  In  some  of  the  States,  the  Governor's  tenure  is  four  years; 
and  Wright,  of  Indiana,  has  now  been  its  head  nearly  eight  years. 
They  are,  to  all  intents  and  purposes,  constitutional  sovereigns  for 
the  time  being ;  and  seeing  a  man  of  Horatio  Seymour's  bene* 
volence,  judgment,  and  ability  placed  in  this  situation,  I  shall  re- 
gret if  popular  caprice  replaces  him  by  an  inferior  statesman. 
One  of  the  candidates  is  a  '  Know-nothing,'  and  he  has  only  party 
support.  I  have  no  acquaintance  with  Mr.  Clark,  the  man  who 
runs  Seymour  hard ;  if  he  succeeds,  his  success  will  be  owing  to 
an  amiable,  though  I  suspect  a  mistaken  public  feeling — about 
the  introduction  of  the  Maine  prohibitory  liquor  law.  Governor 
Seymour  has  fearlessly  and  honestly  withheld  his  assent  to  the 
introduction  of  that  law  into  this  State.  Upon  all  other  points, 
he  is  popular ;  but  an  extreme  and  (with  some)  a  religious  iv^eling, 
moves  the  popular  opinion,  and  Clark  is'  a  *  no  liquor  man.'  None 
can  have  a  more  sincere  horror  of  intemperance  than  myself;  but 
there  is  a  use  as  well  as  an  abuse  of  all  things ;  and  I  doubt  the 
wisdom  of  guiding  a  people  to  the  wise  use  of  a  useful  article,  by 
prohibiting  it  altogether. 

Albany,  Nov.  10. — I  went  to  a  wedding  last  night :  very  dif- 
ferently arranged  from  an  English  marriage,  but  interesting.  A 
pleasing,  well-attired  young  bride  of  twenty — ^the  bridegroom 
twenty-six.  They  stood  side  by  side,  at  one  end  of  a  well-filled 
room,  while  a  Presbyterian  minister  addressed  a  suitable  but  short 
exhortation  to  them.  He  then  gave  the  ring  to  be  placed  upon 
the  bride's  linger,  telling  her  to  wear  it  as  a  pledge  of  her  hus- 
band's affection,  and  as  a  reminder  of  her  own  duties ;  and  after 
his  blessing  upon  them  both,  the  ceremony  was  concluded.  It 
took  place  at  eight  o'clock,  in  the  presence  of  from  two  to  iLree 
hundred  friends.  The  young  wife  remained  awhile  in  her  place 
to  receive  the  kisses  of  her  relations,  and  the  congratulations  of 
all.  I  was  introduced ;  and  she  thanked  me  prettily  for  my  pres- 
ence, and  offered  her  cheek.    Her  dress  was  just  like  our  English 


THE  BfUSEUM. 


129 


brides,  excepting  that  the  white  robe  had  a  train.  She  looked 
calmly  happy.  The  evening  was  closed  by  a  plentiful  standing 
Bupper — hot  oyster  soup,  &c.  In  the  morning  I  went  to  see  hot- 
houses and  greenhouses  belonging  to  a  relation  of  Mrs.  Seymour, 
managed  by  a  gardener  who  was  under  Sir  Joseph  Paxton.  Mr. 
Morison  does  credit  to  his  teacher :  he  has  the  best  managed  coir 
lection  of  plants  I  have  seen  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  and  a  Lyco- 
podium  quite  new  to  me.  The  view  from  an  elevation  in  Mr. 
Coming's  garden  is  very  extensive,  overlooking  Albany  and  Troy, 
with  flop  reaches  of  the  Hudson ;  the  Catskill  mountains  in  the 
distance  one  way,  and  a  range  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State  in 
the  other.  It  is  difficult  to  realize  that  in  coming  from  Niagara 
here,  I  have  traversed  as  much  country  as  if  I  had  journeyed  from 
John  O'Groat's  House  to  London  I  I  begin  to  think  nothing  of 
a  distance  of  two  hundred  miles.  This  evening  we  spent  some 
time  in  a  Museum  of  Natural  History,  which  is  doubly  interest- 
ing, from  being  entirely  confined  to  the  productions  of  this  State ; 
so  that,  my  mind  not  being  overwhelmed  with  variety,  I  was  able 
to  see,  and  to  understand  what  I  did  see,  to  much  greater  advan- 
tage. The  geology  of  New  York  is  an  epitome  of  that  of  the 
world,  though  it  contains  some  details  as  well  as  numerous  objects 
not  known  in  Europe.  Our  chalk  and  oolite  beds  are  wanting ; 
but  at  some  hundreds  of  miles  distance  green  sand  is  to  be  seen, 
rich  in  fossils,  scaphites,  &c.,  three  times  the  size  of  ours.  In 
Minnesota,  about  seventeen  hundred  miles  from  hence  (south-west 
of  Lake  Superior),  exists  a  tract  one  hundred  miles  in  extent, 
called  by  the  Indians,  Mauvaise  Terre — *  The  bad  country ' — and 
well  does  it  merit  that  appellation.  It  consists  of  clay  mountains, 
placed  side  by  side  like  huge  ant-hills,  wholly  bare  of  vegetation 
— not  from  infertility,  but  because  their  component  parts  are  so 
little  coherent,  that  rain  and  torrents  wash  them  clean  of  verdure, 
whenever  it  makes  its  appearance  during  a  spell  of  dry  weather. 
Fine  specimens  of  animal  remains — tortoises,  turtles,  &c.,  arc 
found  at  the  base  of  these  clay  hills.  The  curator  of  the  Museum, 
Mr.  Hubbard,  has  given  me  a  very  curious  recent  fish  from  Lake 
Champlain,  deeply  interesting  as  the  only  lingering  denizen  of 
6* 


v,[;, 


130 


THE   SLAVE    PROBLEM. 


those  early  periods  of  the  world  when  fishes  wore  their  bones  e» 
temally  instead  of  internally.  This  creature  looks  like  an  ante- 
diluyian,  with  his  enamelled  exterior  and  his  bony  tail.  I  think 
he  must  have  been  a  hard  morsel,  even  for  the  digestion  of  an 
ichthyosaurus.  He  is  called  here  the  gar  alligator.  Mr.  Hurst, 
>ne  of  the  naturalists  belonging  to  this  Museum,  has  invented  a 
beautiful  manner  of  preserving  fish,  reptiles,  &c.,  so  as  to  make 
spirits  unnecessary,  and  greatly  to  facilitate  the  examination  of 
them.  But  so  much  arsenic  is  requisite  for  the  process,  that  his 
hands  are  excoriated,  while  his  complexion  is  improvr  \  by  its 
poisonous  fumes.  The  Governor  has  kindly  given  me  a  trout, 
which  is  an  admirable  specimen  of  this  ingenious  mode  of  prepa- 
ration. 

Nov.  11. — For  once,  I  enjoy  a  pouring  wet  day,  as  it  gives 
me  time  to  arrange  a  chaos  of  seeds,  plants,  shells,  and  stones, 
which  I  have  collected  during  my  rapid  western  tour,  and  to  look 
over  the  fine  Hortus  Siccus,  arranged  by  Dr.  Torrey,  in  fifty  vol- 
umes, for  the  Museum.  As  it  is  of  course  confined  to  the  flora 
of  New  York,  I  have  many  specimens  not  included ;  but  it  ena- 
bles me  to  determine  some  which  have  embarrassed  me.  I  saw 
an  alligator  alive,  and  some  curious  little  turtles  and  tortoises ; 
the  latter  are  common  hereabouts,  and  I  am  promised  a  pet,  in 
the  shape  of  a  small  tortoise  which  has  the  faculty  of  shutting 
itself  up  like  a  box  :  it  is  a  vegetarian,  quite  gentle,  hardy,  and 
long  lived.  If  my  favourite  puss  doefj  not  take  umbrage  at  him, 
he  will  be  a  clean,  innocent,  happy  favourite.  The  snapping  tor- 
toise is  larger,  and  quite  a  savage  beast.  There  was  a  live  snake 
in  a  box,  but  I  declined  his  acquaintance.  I  was  surprised  to  see 
the  wild  turkey  so  much  larger  than  the  domesticated ;  his  plu- 
mage, too,  is  finer — almost  resembling  that  of  a  peacock. 

I  begin  to  feel  quite  excited  by  the  ups  and  downs  of  the 
State  election ;  for  though  all  the  votes  were  taken  in  one  day 
(the  7th),  the  various  towns  and  districts  send  their  numbers 
dribbling  in,  so  that  though  Governor  Seymour  has  never  been 
without  a  general  majority,  yet  the  Avhole  is  extremely  fluctua- 
ting ;  and  as  yet  his  fate  remains  undecided.     1  had  a  long  talk 


f::i!! 


SLAVERY. 


181 


with  him  about  the  Slavery  question,  and  was  much  impressed  by 
bis  calm  and  statesmanlike  views  :  he  is  as  desirous  as  any  man 
can  be,  to  see  slavery  abolished;  but  he  sensibly  says,  that, 
Uke  most  other  things  in  connexion  with  the  general  welfare,  it 
is  to  be  considered  with  reference  to  political  economy ;  and  that 
in  our  enthusiastic  headlong  anxiety  to  do  justice  to  the  black 
race,  we  have  surely  (though  quite  unintentionally)  delayed  its 
freedom.  This  is,  I  believe,  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Howe,  and  other 
enlightened  philanthropists.  Twenty-six  years  ago  New  York 
was  a  Slave  State.  How  has  the  curse  been  shaken  off  ?  Not 
by  stringent  laws  and  ill-judged  prohibitions,  but  by  the. intro- 
duction of  free  labour,  which  rendered  that  of  bondage  expensive 
and  inconvenient, — though  it  does  not  improve  the  condition.  The 
wisest  people  say,  that  Slavery  was  on  the  point  of  extinguishing 
itself  in  the  South,  when,  by  rendering  the.  supply  piratical,  the 
value  of  the  article  was  so  raised  in  the  market,  that  it  became  a 
a  profitable  concern  to  grow  slaves.  As  Governor  Seymour 
graphically  explains  the  matter  : — '  If  the  early  settler  wanted  to 
buy  beef,  he  must  buy  the  whole  ox — hide,  horns,  and  tail ;  then 
comes  a  time  when  he  can  procure  a  quarter ;  and  at  last,  as 
population  increases,  he  can  go  to  market  and  purchase  a  beef- 
steak, or  any  joint  most  pleasing  to  his  taste.  Now  the  same 
thing  occurs  in  the  case  of  labour,  which,  after  all,  is  a  marketa- 
ble commodity.  At  first  it  may  be  necessary  to  take  the  whole 
man ;  then  you  can  hire  part  of  a  man ;  and  in  due  time  you 
may  be  able  to  get  so  much  of  the  time  of  a  man  as  may  just  suit 
your  purpose,  without  being  burthened  by  his  infancy  or  his  old 
age.'  Thus  we,  who  have  been  seeking  to  check  the  institution 
of  Slavery  by  violent  means,  have  unintentionally  been  prolong- 
ing it ;  but  time  will  repair  this  mistake,  by  rendering  the  pos- 
session of  slaves  an  expensive  mode  of  cultivation — that  is,  if  cot- 
ton can  be  cultivated  without  it.  Slavery  existed  and  does  exist 
in  Africa,  and  in  a  more  suffering  and  degraded  form  than  that 
of  the  West  Indies,  or  of  the  American  Southern  States.  The 
slaves  benefited  by  their  chanofe  of  servitude :  that  was  a  first  sten 
towards  ultimate  freedom ;  and  if,  when  a  sufficient  number  had 


lii> 


\V 


u  ;r  ■'■ 


W^ 


iii 


h-  vr-i.'! 


182 


THE   AMERICAN   CLEROT. 


been  imported,  their  labour  had  been  naturally  rendered  of  loss 
value  by  the  introduction  of  others,  Slavery  would  quickly  have 
abolished  itself  ;<  but  anti-slavery  laws  checked  the  natural  course 
of  Providence  :  slave-labour  increased,  and  the  chain  of  the  Afri- 
can was  riveted  by  his  intended  emancipator.  Another  practical 
exemplification  of  an  *  ill-judging  friend  being  worse  than  an 
enemy.' 

We  dined  out  to-day — a  pleasant  dinner ;  the  only  peculiarity 
was  the  name  of  each  intended  occupant  being  placed  on  the  table 
opposite  every  chair.  Codfish  appears  to  me  more  delicate  here 
than  upon  our  coasts ;  but  in  general  I  do  not  think  American 
fish  equal  those  of  the  English  shores.  I  have  now  tasted  white 
fish,  black  fish,  masquelongi,  and  salmon.  The  masquelungi  is  a 
fresh-water  fish,  plentiful  in  the  Rice  Lake.  It  appears  to  me  a 
superior  kind  of  pike. 

Sunday,  Nov.  12. — We  went  to  the  church  still  served  by  Dr. 
Potter,  the  new  Bishop  of  New  York,  who  does  not  give  up  his 
duty  till  after  his  consecration.  He  is  a  kind  and  agreeable,  as 
well  as  a  good  man ;  and  I  never  heard  our  service  with  greater 
pleasure :  it  was  so  admirably  arranged  and  read  here,  that  I 
could  not  help  contrasting  it  with  the  church  at  Toronto,  where 
the  service  was  conducted  in  a  heavy,  tedious  way.  Election  re- 
turns still  incomplete ;  the  majority  supposed  to  be  for  the  present 
Governor ;  but  no  one  can  give  certain  information. 

Albany,  November  13. — One  circumstance  is  to  be  observed 
of  the  American  Episcopalian  clergymen,  and,  as  far  as  I  have 
been  able  to  remark,  the  same  thing  may  be  said  of  the  Presby* 
terian, — that  they  all  read  well,  without  the  nasal*  tone  or  the 
peculiar  pronunciation  of  the  North-eastern  States.  It  is  a  pitj 
that  civilians,  especially  diplomatic  men,  do  not  imitate  theii 
clergy  in  this  matter.  I  think  the  latter,  as  a  body,  superior  tc 
ours.  Among  those  whose  churches  I  have  attended,  two  minis- 
ters, educated  and  ordained  upon  our  side  the  Atlantic,  both  good 
men,  were  pompous  and  tedious  in  tlie  reading-desk  and  pulpit. 
And  we  must  confess  that  not  many  in  England  cither  read  oi 
oroaoh  in  an  attractive  manner.    Ou  Saturday,  the  Governor  took 


THE  PENITENTIART. 


183 


me  to  see  an  excellent  Penitentiary  belonging  to  this  district 
The  house  has  been  lately  built  after  the  plan  of  the  superin- 
tendent, Mr.  Pillsbury,  a  man  who  possesses  the  qualities  of  firm- 
ness, order,  and  benevolence  in  a  high  degree.     The  cells  are 
arranged  in  a  way  differing  from  what  I  have  hitherto  seen.     An 
oblong  block  of  three  or  four  storeys  (the  upper  ones  reached  by 
exterior  staircases  and  galleries,  capable  of  accommodatiog  185 
people)  is  placed  within  a  large  kind  of  hall  admirably  ventilated; 
every  cell  has  an  iron  bedstead,  and  those  of  the  women  a  chair. 
The  large  door  of  iron  grating  which  closes  each,  is  so  constructed 
as  to  admit  sufficient  light  and  air.     All  are  shut  by  the  same 
mechanical  process,  managed  by  an  iron  bar,  which  runs  the  whole 
length  of  the  block,  and  even  if  any  one  is  by  accident  left  un- 
locked, the  door  cannot  be  opened.     About  three  hundred  pris- 
oners, male  and  female,  are  now  confined  here — all  for  short  terms: 
those  under  long  convictions  are  taken  to  other  prisons.     These 
people  are  sentenced  for  a  period  of  about  three  months ;  many 
of  them  for  a  shorter  time.     We  found  the  men  at  work  in  two 
large  workshops,  one  entirely  devoted  to  making  cane-bottomed 
chairs,  the  other  harness.     All  were  busily   engaged;  not  one 
lifted  an  eye  or  spoke  a  word.     In  the  women's  ward,  there  was 
more  variety  of  employment;   washing,  ironing,  mending,  and 
cooking — but  no  speaking.     One  haggard  looking  crone  of  more 
than  eighty  years  of  age,  here  for  the  fourth  time,  looked  the  per- 
sonification of  incorrigibility.     Some  few  men  were  at  work  in 
the  grounds,  which  having  to  be  newly  laid  out,  afford  much  pro- 
mise of  occupation ;  and  it  has  sometimes  happened  that  emanci- 
pated prisoners  have  entreated  for  employment  there.     Mr.  Pills- 
bury's  success  appears  to  be  owing  to  his  unflinching  will  and 
determined  discipline;  to  the  strict  enforcement  of  cleanliness, 
and,  above  all,  to  the  influence  of  love  which  this  kind  man  brings 
to  bear  upon  his  prisoners,  for  his  heart  seems  to  be  of  the  most 
tender  mould.     Yet  I  could  wish  that  the  tongues  of  these  unfor- 
tunate ones  might  be  a  little  loosed,  just  so  much  as  is  allowed  by 
the  Governor  of  the  gaol  at  Munich  without  being  followed  by 
3vil  consequences.     There,  the  prisouers  are  permitted  to  speak 


184 


INDIAN  THANKSGIVING. 


on  matters  connected  with  their  labour,  but  if  that  liberty  is 
abused,  they  are  made  to  work  alone.  Upon  the  entrance  of  a 
prisoner  here,  he  is  told  he  must  be  industrious,  never  look  up 
from  his  work,  and  keep  silence,  and  that  if  he  conforms  to  these 
rules,  he  will  be  well  fed  and  kindly  treated  ;  he  usually  conforms 
immediately.  The  house  has  been  erected,  and  all  expenses  of 
the  establishment  are  defrayed,  by  the  profits  which  accrue  from 
the  prisoners'  labour. 

Near  Utica  there  has  long  been  a  white  rock  held  as  a  sacred 
stone  by  the  Indians.  This  veneration  was  owing  to  its  being  a 
kind  of  sienite  unique  in  the  district.  As  its  situation  was  near  a 
spot  lately  formed  into  a  cemetery,  Mr.  Seymour  proposed  that 
this  stone  should  be  removed  there  to  save  it  from  destruction, 
and  to  show  sympathy  for  Indian  feelings.  An  agreement  with 
them  was  made  for  that  purpose ;  they  also  being  allowed  the 
liberty  of  interment  in  the  grounds  ;  and  the  stone  may  be  seen 
now  on  a  mound  at  the  cemetery. 

After  the  election  of  the  present  Governor,  a  chief  came  to 
Albany,  to  prefer  some  request  to  him.  Being  an  Oneidan,  he 
spoke  of  his  tribe.  Mr.  Seymour  kindly  replying,  said — *  I  also 
am  an  Oneidan,  for  my  residence  is  at  Utica.'  The  Indians  de- 
signated the  local  Governors  as  their  '  Father,'  and  the  President 
as  their  '  Great  Father.'  But  upon  Mr.  Seymour  making  this 
remark,  the  Chief  quickly  and  gracefully  changed  the  term  of 
relationship.  '  My  Buotiier  then  is  an  Oneidan ;  he  will  feel  for 
the  wants  of  his  Brethren.'  Although  the  Indians  may  speak  and 
understand  English,  and  when  not  conducting  a  diplomatic  inter- 
view will  converse  in  our  language,  yet  in  formal  intercourse  with 
the  Governors  or  Governments,  they  will  only  carry  it  on  through 
an  interpreter,  bearing  in  mind  the  view  of  preserving  their  dig- 
nity and  nationality.  I  believe  they  are  now  very  kindly  and 
considerately  treated  by  the  United  States.  Their  religion  is  a 
pure  Theism ;  and  some  of  thnsc  we  call  the  Pagan  Indians  are, 
alas !  superior  in  Christian  conduct  to  the  converted ;  for  the 
latter  practise  the  vices  of  cheating  and  drunkenness,  while  the 
former  are  simple,  pure,  and  sober,  until  contaminated  by  the 


ORIGIN  OF  PARTT  NAMES. 


185 


hat  liberty  is 
entrance  of  a 
lever  look  up 
'ormB  to  these 
lally  conforms 
expenses  of 
accrue  from 

d  as  a  sacred 
0  its  being  a 
ion  was  near  a 
proposed  that 
a  destruction, 
;reement  with 
allowed  the 
may  be  seen 


chief  came  to 
1  Oneidan,  he 
,  said — '  I  also 
e  Indians  de- 
the  President 
:  making  this 

the  term  of 
lie  will  feel  for 
may  speak  and 
)lomatic  inter- 
tercourse  with 

it  on  through 
ing  their  dig- 
ry  kindly  and 
'  religion  is  a 
1  Indians  are, 
3rted;  for  the 
less,  while  the 
inated  by  the 


white  man.  They  believe  in  a  great  oreating,  superintending 
Spirit,  who  rewards  the  good  and  punishes  the  evil  in  a  future 
life ;  and  they  have  public  meetings  tot  prayer  and  thanksgiving. 
One  is  called  the  '  Feast  of  Strawberries,'  when  they  assemble  to 
offer  up  thanks  to  the  Great  Giver  of  all  good  for  the  returning 
crop  of  that  berry ;  and  there  are  other  periods  of  general  thanks- 
giving  for  a  sufficiency  of  game  and  for  the  fruits  of  the  earth. 
Thus  they  acknowledge  the  unity,  omnipresence,  and  omniscience 
of  the  Deity ;  the  freewill,  responsibility,  and  immortality  of  man ; 
and  these  truths  being  known  and  assented  to  by  the  American 
Indians,  Christianity  is  received  and  accepted  by  them  without 
much  difficulty,  as  a  further  dispensation  and  message  from  the 
Universal  Father. 

From  the  Governor  of  New  York  I  have  inquired  and  learned 
the  meaning  of  party  terms  which  have  before  puzzled  me— such 
as  Adamantines,  Hard-shells,  Soft-shells,  Loco-focos,  Bick-burners, 
and  PoUywogs.  It  seems  these  names  are  highly  figurativo— 
they  have  originated  in  casual  expressions  made  use  of  by  public 
speakers  which  have  happened  to  hit  the  fancy  of  the  hearers,  so 
that  they  become  cant  terms.  A  Democrat  in  this  country  is 
synonymous  with  a  Whig  or  Liberal  in  England,  while  he  who  is 
denominated  Whig  here,  is  really  a  Tory  or  Conservative.  The 
latter  party  advocate  prohibitions,  and  tariffs,  and  interference  of 
the  Central  Government  with  local  improvements;  while  the 
Democrats  are  free-traders,  and  promoters  of  self-government  iu 
each  State.  They  say  that  railroads,  and  harbours,  and  bridges, 
and  canals,  can  be  formed  and  conducted  at  less  expense  and  more 
advantageously  on  the  spot,  than  when  planned  and  directed  by 
the  Central  Government  from  a  distance  of  many  hundred  miles, 
where  they  are  apt  to  def^enerate  into  jobs.  Upon  some  occasion, 
when  the  moderate  De  nocrats  were  accused  of  yielding  rather 
too  much  to  the  views  of  their  opponents,  a  wag,  during  his 
address  to  a  popular  assembly,  said :  '  Now  I  think  these  politi- 
cians are  blowing  hot  and  cold ;  they  are  too  much  like  crabs  when 
in  a  state  of  transition  between  the  soft  and  the  hard  shell.  I 
am  for  the  whole  hog — I  am  a  Hard-shell.'    And  another  said. 


186 


ALBAKT. 


''^IK 


m^k 


I  n 


ill 


*  They  are  PoUywogs'  (the  Indian  name  for  tadpoles).  So  with 
the  Loco-focos,  of  which  party  the  Barn-burners  were  an  extreme. 
Now  I  understand  the  meaning  of  the  following  curious  paragraph 
in  one  of  the  local  papers  some  weeks  ago :  *  The  organ  of  the 
Hard-shell  Democrats  says  that  orders  have  been  sent  from 
Washington,  enjoining  all  persons  holding  office  under  the  Central 
Govern  xent  to  keep  away  from  the  approaching  Soft-shell  Con- 
vention at  Syracuse ;  for  this  reason  it  is  anticipated  the  Barn- 
burners will  have  control  of  the  convention,  and  pass  anti-Ne- 
braska resolutions.'  The  peculiar  circumstances  which  ga>  3  origin 
to  the  Loco-foco  and  Barn-burner,  are  these ;  during  an  assemblage 
of  Democrats,  some  who  wished  to  disperse  the  meeting  obtained 
command  of  the  gas-pipes,  with  an  intention  of  throwing  darkness 
over  the  deliberations  of  the  said  '  convention ;'  but  the  Hard- 
sholls,  getting  a  hint  of  this  plot,  provided  themselves  with 
lucifer-matches  and  candles,  and  when  the  gas  went  out  suddenly, 
they  soon  re-illuminated  their  proceedings.  Hence  they  were 
called  Loco-focos ;  and  an  ultra  Loco-foco  was  taunted  with  the 
sobriquet  of  Barn-burner. 

We  dined  yesterday  at  a  very  pretty  and  well-arranged  house, 
belonging  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Pompelly — an  Italian  name,  which  has 
been  spoiled  by  the  substitution  of  an  English  termination.  The 
dinner  was  much  like  one  in  London,  except  that  the  hour  was 
six  instead  of  eight.  I  sat  by  an  American  Major-General,  who 
has  travelled  much  in  Europe.  From  his  countenance  and 
manner,  I  should  have  supposed  him  Bavarian ;  but  this  city 
contains  a  great  mixture  of  the  varying  national  characteristics 
of  Europe.  In  one  quarter  Germans  are  so  numerous,  that 
the  signs  and  designations  of  the  shops  and  eating-houses  are  in 
German.  Many  also  of  the  respectable  inhabitants  there  still 
speak  Dutch ;  French  is  less  common,  but  the  American,  Scotch, 
Irish,  and  English  blood  is  mixed  up  in  tolerably  equal  proportions, 
and  in  a  short  time  all  these  heterogeneous  elements  will  be  hap- 
,pily  amalgamated. 

To-day  I  went  to  vi^it  the  library — a  handsome  and  convenient 
building,  well  supplied  with  valuable  and  useful  books;  and  after* 


A  FATKRITAL   GOVERNOR. 


187 


wards  the  Governor  introduced  me  to  the  studio  of  Palmer — a 
sculptor  of  evident  taste  and  talent,  who  has  hitherto  depended 
upon  the  inspiration  of  his  own  mind,  rather  than  upon  the  study 
of  ancient  art.  Near  a  spot  chiefly  inhabited  by  Dutch  settlers,  I 
endeavoured  to  make  a  sketch  of  Albany  with  the  distant  moun- 
tains,  and  an  extensive  view  of  the  Hudson  River ;  but  my  fingers 
Boon  became  so  benumbed  by  cold,  that  I  had  not  much  success. 
The  weather  continues  very  like  winter  in  England,  but  no  de- 
cided snow  here  at  present. 

November  16. — Yesterday  was  nearly  all  passed  in  visiting 
to  return  the  civility  of  those  who  have  called,  or  given  me  invi* 
tations.  I  entered  a  great  many  houses.  The  reception  rooms  are 
generally  on  the  ground  floor,  handsomely  fitted  up,  usually  co- 
vered by  English  or  French  carpets,  but  extremely  dark.  They 
are  commonly  kept  very  warm  by  stoves,  or  rather  furnaces,  be- 
low. I  only  saw  one  open  fireplace,  in  which  the  fuel  was  a  kind 
of  anthracite  coal.  The  houses  are  good,  almost  always  entered 
by  a  single  flight  of  stone  steps ;  from  three  to  four  rcoms  on  a 
floor,  but  these  rooms  have  a  bare,  unhomelike  appearance  to  an 
English  eye,  from  the  absence  of  books,  and  work,  and  writing 
materials ;  they  look  as  if  in  use  only  for  company.  We  had  an 
agreeable  small  dinner-party  at  home — the  Bishop  of  New  York ; 
Mr.  Hall,  the  palaeontologist,  and  his  wiic^ ;  Mr.  Johnson,  a  judge ; 
and  one  or  two  more.  It  is  believed  that  the  re-election  of  the 
present  Governor  is  secure.  I  rejoice  in  this,  as  an  indication  that 
good  common  sense,  after  all,  prevails  over  an  ill-regulated  en- 
thusiasm. The  other  day,  a  young  man  received  his  pardon  from 
Mr.  Sejrmour,  after  a  short  imprisonment.  In  such  a  cose  he 
usually  sees  the  offender  upon  his  liberation ;  and  he  gave  this 
youth  some  friendly  advice  upon  the  danger  of  intemperate  habits. 
The  man  looked  surprised,  and  exclaimed :  *  Why,  sir,  I  had  been 
told  you  were  all  for  liquor,  and  you  don't  look  like  one  who 
cares  for  it.'  '  Remember,'  was  the  reply,  '  that  no  human  law 
can  make  a  man  good.  He  must  learn  sjlf-control,  and  be  ac- 
tuated by  principle.  If  laws  would  have  pruvented  you  from  get- 
ting into  mischief,  you  would  not  have  been  sent  to  prison.' 


.*  I  I 


i;;    t 


III 


188 


PROCLAMATION. 


Ono  day  is  annually  sot  apart  by  tho  custom  of  oaoh  Stato  for 
a  gonoral  thanksgiving.  Hero  is  an  oxanij)lo  of  tho  form  and 
manner  in  which  this  is  done.  Tho  Governor  for  tho  time  being 
soloots  a  day,  and  then  issues  his  Proclamation,  which  is  published 
in  all  tho  papers : — 

PROCLAMATION. 

Bt  Hokatio  Skymour,  Govkknob  ov  tiik  Statk  of  Nkw  Youk. 

An  nokuowlodgmont  of  onr  tlopoiulonco  upon  Gotl,  iiiid  of  our  obligation 
to  Him,  is  at  uU  times  tho  duty  of  a  Christian  Pooplo.  But  wl»on  tho  Al- 
mighty has  again  crowned  tho  year  with  liia  goodnoss,  and  wo  aro  enjoying 
tlio  gathered  fruits  of  His  bounty,  it  is  eniinontly  fitting  that  wo  sliould  offer  th« 
SAorifico  of  praiHu  and  thanlcsgiving. 

I  tborolbro  appoint  Tliursday,  tlio  JJOtli  day  of  November,  for  this  appro- 
priate scrvioo ;  and  invito  the  citizens  of  the  Stato  to  assemble  on  that  day  in 
their  respective  places  of  worship,  to  prosont  their  acknowledgments  to  tao 
Parent  of  the  Universe  for  liis  raultlpHod  mercies.  An<l  with  our  thanksgiving 
lot  us  mingle  prayers  for  a  contumanco  of  the  numberless  blessings  wo,  as  a 
people,  enjoy,  remembering  that  His  wisdom  alone  can  rightly  direct,  His 
power  support,  and  His  goodness  give  strength  and  security. 

In  witness  whereof  I  have  hereunto  subscribed  my  namo  and  af- 
[l.  8.]    fixed  tho  private  seal  of  tho  State,   at  tho  City  of  Albany,  this  10th 
day  of  November,  Ono  Thousand  VAght  Hundred  and  Fifty- Four. 

HORATIO  SEYMOUR. 
By  tho  Governor.    F-  W.  De  Pirv, 

Private  Secretary. 

In  driving  down  one  of  tb  streets  heie,  my  attention  was  at- 
tracted by  tho  ]Manx  Arms — the  three  legs — as  a  sign  over  a 
tailc'ii  shop.  I  was  sure  the  occupant  must  be  a  native  of  the 
Isle  of  Man,  and  on  our  return  I  requested  to  stop  tho  carriage, 
that  I  might  ask  a  question.  Upon  going  into  tho  house  I  found 
e,  man  busily  employed  upon  a  coat.  *  You  are  a  Manxman,  I 
am  certain  ? '  '  To  be  su^e  I  am,'  was  the  answer ;  '  but  who  aro 
you  ? '  The  tailor  and  the  tailor's  wife  and  da  ughter  were  de- 
lighted to  hear  the  name  of  Murray,  and  to  fi  id  I  had  been  at 
■w 1^—   _i i.  r«.._  ...:i,^»  A..,..-  Tii^i.^.^i^  n^.,~i   ,.i,«_-v  xk_ 

born:  he  has  been  nineteen  years  in  Ameuca;  he  says  he  has 


TOUTHFUL   HEROISM. 


189 


NlCW    YOKK. 


got  on  protty  well,  but  that  ho  works  harder  th;  n  he  did  at  home. 
I  wa»  invited  to  tea,  and  though  I  could  not  accept  the  invitation, 
it  giivo  mo  pleasure  to  sec  that  my  visit  was  fully  appreciated.  I 
have  made  a  sketch  of  Bishop's  Court,  for  this  my  friend,  (Mr. 
Crow,)  from  memory ;  and  as  he  maintains  it  to  be  the  most  beau- 
tiful place  in  the  world,  I  think  the  remembrance  will  be  valued. 
Albany^  Ihvemher  17. — Mr.  Seymour  and  his  opponent  are 

still  running  neck  to  neck,  although  tO  have  several  times  sup- 
poHod  the  affair  settled ;  this  election  nas  been  more  fluctuating 
and  lunger  about  than  any  I  ever  heard  of,  not  entirely  owing  to 
the  groat  extent  of  territory  concerned — for  all  the  votes  were 
taken  ut  the  different  places  in  one  day ;  but  they  have  been  very 
long  coming  in  here.  At  New  York,  and  I  think  I  may  say  in 
all  the  enlightened  cities,  Seymour  has  an  overwhelming  majority, 
but  the  distant  counties  and  towns  vote  for  Myron  Clark,  and  it 
is  now  believed  they  will  elect  him  by  a  trifling  majority.  The 
numbers  to-day  are  132,264  for  Seymour — 131,111  for  Clark; 
there  are,  however,  a  few  more  returns  to  come  in,  which  may  be 
in  favour  of  the  latter. 

November  18. — We  spent  yesterday  evening  quietly,  drinking 
tea  with  Mrs.  S 's  sister,  who  lives  nearly  opposite :  her  in- 
terest and  excitement  at  the  present  moment  are  naturally  great, 
as  a  change  of  Governors  will  separate  this  family.  Our  weather 
to-day  promises  to  be  clear  and  fine ;  wc  have  had  hardly  anything 
but  gloomy,  wet,  cold  days  since  I  arrived  here  ten  days  ago. 
Pciliaps  we  shall  go  to  New  York  this  afternoon.     I  have  heard 

of  the  arrival  of  my  Virginian  friend.  Miss  G ,  from  England, 

and  I  hope  to  meet  her  there.  A  mere  child,  named  Eli  Rheem, 
has  performed  an  act  of  heroism  worthy  of  more  years  and  of 
noblest  times.  I  have  cut  the  details  out  of  a  trustworthy  print 
— for  this  deed  deserves  to  be  celebrated  as  evincing  a  courage 
which  throws  that  of  warriors  into  the  shade. 


tuu  uiuu  nua 


ni 


K\'' 


140  A   VOBLB    BOT. 

A  NOBLE  BOY. 

RESCTE   OF  A   PASUEXOER  TRAIN   FROM   CERTAIN   DESTRCrTIOV. 

We  mentioned  a  few  dnys  since  the  burning  of  the  Tnnnel  Bridge,  on  the 
Baltimore  and  Susquehanna  Railroad,  about  five  miles  south  of  York  and 
since  learn  that  the  conflagration  came  very  near  being  followed  by  one  of  the 
most  terrible  disasters  that  has  lately  occurred  in  railroad  travel.  It  is  sup- 
posed that  the  bridge  took  fire  from  tlie  freight  trains  which  passed  about  half* 
past  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  the  structure  was  totally  enveloped  in 
flames  before  it  was  discovered  by  the  residents  in  the  vicinity.  At  about  nine 
o'clock  the  frame-work  of  the  bridge  fell  through,  and  among  the  spectators, 
some  twenty  in  number,  was  a  little  boy  about  twelve  years  of  age,  named  Eli 
Rheem,  who,  remembering  that  the  express  train  was  then  about  due  from 
York,  started  off  at  the  top  of  his  speed  to  endeavour  to  stop  the  train,  which 
he  knew  must  be  close  at  hand.  As  soon  as  he  reached  the  curve,  about  two 
hundred  yards  from  the  bridge,  he  observed  the  train  coming  at  full  speed,  and 
fearing  that  he  would  be  unable  to  stop  them  unless  by  the  use  of  extraordi- 
nary means,  the  noble  little  fellow  took  his  positio'i  on  the  track,  and  running 
towards  the  approaching  train  with  his  hands  rr.ised,  caught  the  attention  of 
the  engineer,  who  immediately  reversed  his  engine,  and  stopped  within  four 
hundred  yards  of  impending  destruction,  the  piers  being  some  twenty  feet  from 
the  j-ocky  bed  below,  and  the  gap  some  sixty  feet  wide.  Had  the  boy'  not 
placed  himself  on  the  track,  he  would  do.  jtless  have  failed  in  his  noble  effort, 
as  the  engineers  are  so  often  cheated  by  mischievous  boys  on  the  route  that 
they  seldom  pay  any  attention  to  them.  Even  when  he  stopped,  he  thought  he 
had  been  cheated  by  a  youngster  with  more  daring  than  his  associates,  and  was 
surprised  to  see  the  little  flaxen-headed  fellow  stand  his  ground,  and  endea- 
vouring to  recover  his  lost  breath,  to  answer  his  questions  as  to  the  cause  of 
his  interruption.  We  learned  that  the  passengers,  when  they  ascertained  the 
cause  of  the  stoppage  of  the  train,  and  viewed  the  precipice  over  which  they 
wore  near  being  dashed,  liberally  rewarded  the  boy  for  his  presence  of  mind  and 
daring,  and  that  the  Board  of  Directors,  at  their  meeting  yesterday,  appro- 
priated 100  dollars  as  an  additional  recompense.  Eli  Rheem,  a  boy  but  twdve 
years  of  age,  was  the  only  one  of  twenty  persons  present,  most  of  them  men, 
who  had  forethought  sufficient  for  the  occasion. — Batt-  American. 

The  name  of  Rheem  leads  one  to  suppose  that  this  gallant 
little  fellow  must  be  of  Dutch  origin ;  I  shall  be  glad  if  England 
can  claim  the  originating  of  his  parentage.  Alas !  for  the  hor- 
lOrs  of  war  contrastiug  with  the  peaceful  triumph  of  this  child ! 
Our  brave  soldiers  sacrificed,  to  sacrifice  those  who  under  different 


OOMMimiTY   OF   SKAKKKS. 


141 


oirewDBtances  ihej  would  die  to  save  I  I  dread  looking  at  the 
English  news.  jBvery  mail  now  brings  sorrowful  intelligence  of 
the  fall  of  some  young  man  who,  if  not  a  relative  of  my  own,  is 
the  darling  of  some  house  and  home  for  which  I  feel  an  interest. 
What  does  not  that  Russian  deserve  ?  I  trust  he  will  some  day 
be  shut  up  as  a  madman,  unfit  to  be  trusted  with  a  knife ;  and 
then  perhaps  his  wretched  serfs  may  learn  that  Christianity  does 
not  teach  them  war.  To-day  the  Governor  and  Mrs.  Seymour 
took  me  to  see  a  community  of  Shakers,  who  live  about  ten  miles 
from  this  place ;  they  appear  to  be  a  harmless  industrious  set  of 
people,  a  kind  of  Quaker  Order  of  Monks  and  Nuns,  who  feed 
well,  set  a  good  example  as  to  morality  and  neatness,  and  eschew 
as  a  crime  everything  approaching  to  beauty  and  elegance.  We 
had  some  excellent  bread  and  cheese,  saw  them  make  their  useful 
brooms,  and  bought  some  of  their  delicate  baskets,  in  the  manu- 
facture of  which  the  line  of  beauty  has  unconsciously  introduced 
itself.  Kind  Brother  Frederick,  the  ruler  of  the  establishment, 
showed  us  all  over  it.  A  Shaker  village  has  one  great  advantage 
over  all  monastic  communities — no  vows  are  imposed,  and  the 
freedom  of  egress  is  perfectly  unshackled.  We  drove  through  a 
high  sandy  district,  with  scattered  woods  of  birch  and  yellow  pine, 
the  ground  diversified  by  low  hills,  with  extensive  views  of  distant 
mountains  and  the  Hudson  Kiver.  In  passing  through  Albany, 
I  was  shown  some  old  Dutch  houses,  constructed  of  bricks  which 
were  actually  brought  here  from  Holland  1  Now,  the  great  majority 
of  buildings  are  of  brick  made  on  the  spot.  In  this  neighbourhood 
the  usual  snake  fences,  made  with  as  large  a  quantity  of  timber 
as  can  be  put  into  them,  about  six  feet  high,  are  beginning  to  be 
rare :  the  divisions  consist  of  fences  straight  and  regular ;  once  it 
was  considered  a  beauty  to  have  as  many  fences  as  possible,  now 
a  contrary  opinion  prevails  hereabouts.  In  new  clearings,  glaring 
white  houses,  with  green  or  red  blinds  are  still  considered  the  best 
taste — naturally  enough;  for  in  the  dark  forest  they  were  more 
visible,  and  spoke  of  comfort  and  civilization  :  now  some  taste  for 
architecture  is  springiag  up  in  cities  and  their  environs.  Mr. 
Se3rmour  drove  me  in  a  light  open  carriage,  universal  in  America . 


V  &■ 


>um 


142 


THK  LETTER  OF  THB  LAW. 


it  has  wheels  exceedingly  high  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the 
body.  These  *  wagons  '  are  certainly  airy  and  slight,  and  conse- 
quently plunge  into  the  hollows  and  holes  of  the  tracks  without 
risk.  We  had  a  bright  sun,  and  as  the  wind  was  quiet  I  did  not 
mind  cold ;  but  it  was  very  cold. 

November  19 — Sunday. — I  believe  that  my  journey  to  New 
York  is  likely  to  be  delayed  yot  for  days.  Some  gentlemen  who 
came  in  last  night,  say  that  the  voting  is  so  close,  that  although 
State  officers  are  now  busy  in  investigation,  it  will  require  an- 
other week  before  the  result  can  be  declared ;  and  even  then  the 
present  Governor,  if  he  should  lose,  would  really  have  a  majority ; 
because  a  large  number  of  votes  have  been  given  with  the  initial 
H.,  instead  of  Horatio,  which  invalidates  them.  The  Shakers, 
too,  wish  for  him ;  but  the  silly  people  consider  it  against  their 
principles  to  make  use  of  their  votes.  I  wonder  whether  you  in 
England  will  feel  any  interest  in  this  election  for  my  American 
friend ;  or  whether  you  will  be  vexed  that  so  many  pages  of  my 
paper  are  devoted  to  New  York  politics.  This  packet  will  proba- 
bly be  sent  off  before  the  knotty  point  is  made  straight,  so  either 
way  you  will  not  get  the  conclusion  until  another  mail.  Though 
interested,  my  mind  is  not  at  all  decided  as  to  whether  I  really 
wish  the  present  Governor  to  be  in  for  another  year  or  not.  I 
should  not  like  him  to  be  beat.  Yet  I  think  the  good  effects  of 
his  rule  will  tell  upon  his  successor,  who,  I  understand,  is  much 
his  inferior  in  education  and  talent ;  and  rest  will  be  good  for  my 
friend,  while  he  and  Mrs.  Seymour  will  be  more  at  liberty  to 
make  our  proposed  forests  excursions  next  year.  I  shall  remain 
until  +he  matter  is  settled ;  for  as  they  kindly  wish  to  be  my 
guides  in  New  York,  should  we  go  there  whilst  the  decision  is 
pending,  Mr.  Seymour's  visit  there  will  be  ascribed  to  political 
motives,  which  would  bo  unpleasant  to  him. 

After  the  service  this  morning,  the  Bishop-elect  of  New  York 
baptized  two  children,  one  about*four,  the  other  rather  more  than 
a  year  old ;  the  ceremony  took  place  at  the  Communion-rail  under 
the  pulpit — the  water  being  blesHed  on  the  reading-desk.  The 
father  and  mother  with  their  eldest  child,  alone  stood  and  knelt 


PROBABILITIES. 


145 


at  the  rail ;  the  other  attendants  remained  in  pews.  I  like  the 
custom  of  allowing  parents  to  be  sponsors  for  their  own  children. 
The  service  was  much  the  same  as  ours.  But  as  after  being  bap- 
tized, the  youngest  child  was  inclined  to  be  loquacious,  he  was  at 
once  taken  out  of  the  church  by  the  person  who  carried  him  in 
her  arms.  I  observed  no  particular  smartness  of  dress  on  this 
occasion,  either  for  the  children  or  their  attendants. 

The  Governor  has  just  proposed  that  Mrs.  Seymour  and  I 
shall  go  together  to  New  York  to-morrow ;  and  if  business  per- 
mits, he  will  follow  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two.  So  we  shall 
start  by  the  eleven  o'clock  train,  and  go  to  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel. 
I  shall  probably  not  extend  my  stay  at  New  York  much  beyond 
a  week ;  and  letters  in  future  must  be  addressed  to  the  care  of 
Mr.  Crampton,  our  minister  at  Washington.  He  is  the  most 
likely  person  to  know  my  whereabouts ;  and  he  will,  I  daresay, 
forward  communications  from  home  during  the  winter,  or  as  long 
as  I  remain  in  the  Southern  States. 

Your  affectionate 

A.  M.  M. 


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LETTER  Xm. 


NEW     YORK. 


New  York,  Jfovember  2S,  1864. 

My  dear  Friends, — 

After  travelling  2685  miles,  here  we  are  at  New  York. 
Since  our  arrival,  on  the  19th,  I  have  not  had  time  to  write  more 
than  a  few  lines,  which  went  by  yesterday's  mail  to  my  nieces.  I 
had  a  pleasant  journey  by  rail  down  the  beautiful  Hudson ;  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  way  the  line  actually  runs  through  the 
water ;  as  between  the  range  of  the  Catskills  on  one  side,  and  the 
rocky  shore  on  the  other,  it  was  much  easier  to  form  a  road  on 
piles,  where  the  water  is  not  very  deep,  than  to  tunnel  and  batter 
a  course  for  the  trains  through  the  rocks  :  at  one  spot  where  we 
did  go  through  them,  a  red  flag  brought  us  up  for  a  few  minutes, 
owing  to  some  of  the  boundary  having  fallen  in  the  night.  Mrs. 
Seymour,  her  niece,  and  some  gentlemen,  accompanied  me  from 
Albany  :  the  Grovernor  has  now  arrived  also,  but  it  was  not  in  his 
power  to  come  down  on  Monday.  This  Hotel  of  St.  Nicholas  is 
quite  a  palace ;  its  only  fault  being  that  the  gorgeous  silk  furni- 
ture, mirrors,  and  carpets,  are  rather  in  the  extreme  of  mag- 
nificence ;  however,  the  rooms  are  comfortable.  I  have  a  hot  and 
cold  bath  attached  to  my  bedroom :  and  as  I  happened  to  be 
rather  ill  yesterday  (for  the  first  time  since  I  crossed  the  Atlantic), 
I  found  the  warm  bath  an  excellent  remedy,  aud  one  which,  if  it 
had  not  been  so  conveniently  placed,  I  should  probably  have  gone 


TH£   B&OADWAT. 


146 


1 

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^^@K 

X-Tv 

\^'@^^^^ 

^ 

7^i^^^V>^ 

November  26, 1864. 


without.  Tuesday  last  was  spent  in  shopping  ana  visits.  On 
Wednesday  the  consecration  of  my  friend  Dr.  Potter,  the  new 
Biahop  of  New  York,  took  place ;  I  saw  much  of  him  at  Albany, 
still  as  yet  his  residence.  The  ceremony  was  one  of  much  more 
importance  than  that  upon  like  occasions  in  England.  Twelve 
bishops  and  one  hundred  and  sixty  clergy  attended,  besides  two 
hundred  students  of  divinity.  It  was  performed  in  a  pretty  new 
church  called  Trinity,  Early  Perpendicular  in  style;  all  the 
windows  edged  and  surmounted  with  painted  glass,  which,  though 
not  of  the  most  perfect  design  and  colouring,  is  still  far  better 
tban  common.  The  music  was  good,  and  I  observed  no  great 
difference  from  our  consecration  service,  excepting  that  the  new 
bishop  is  robed  in  front  of  the  Communion-table,  a  custom  which 
has  always  prevailed  in  America,  but  which,  I  think,  detracted 
from  the  solemnity  of  the  occasion.  In  the  evening  I  was  invited 
to  meet  all  the  bishops  and  a  large  number  of  the  clergy.  It 
was  a  pleasant  party ;  and  I  recognized  the  Bishop  of  Vermont, 
who  received  me  with  kindness  on  Lake  Champlain.  The  conse- 
cration deed  of  Dr.  Potter,  designed  nnd  boautifully  illuminated 
by  a  young  lady,  was  on  a  table  of  itodiseval  appearance.  I  was 
introduced  to  Bishop  Fulford,  who  was  absent  during  my  visit  to 

Montreal.     He  preached  in  the  morning.     Thursday,  Mr.  D , 

one  of  my  American  friends  i-a  board  the  Canada,  took  me  to 
see  many  places  in  the  city,  and  from  the  steeple  summit  of 
Trinity  Church  I  gained  a  good  idea  of  -New  York,  with  its 
rivers,  islands,  and  environs;  the  ground  it  is  built  upon  is 
almost  insular — perhaps  three  or  four  miles  in  width,  and  fourteen 
m  length,  Broadway  nearly  dividing  it  in  half.  This  street  is 
something  between  our  Strand  and  Oxford-streetj  rather  wider 
than  the  former,  quite  as  full  of  traffic  as  either ;  but  then  we 
must  bear  in  mind  that  this  is  the  only  great  artery  of  New 
York.  We  drove  in  an  omnibus  through  Broadway  to  what  is 
considered  the  aristocratic  quarter-— for  it  must  be  remarked  that 
people  here  are  not  at  all  less  exclusive  than  in  London — only 
the  differences  of  rank  and  wealth  are  evinced  by  more  minute 
and  elaborate  attention  to  dress,  and  to  trifling  conventionalitiea^ 
7 


146 


GREENWOOD   CEMETERT. 


f:'\m 


f.  "• 


t  "i 


*   ! 


:^>.^s■  :i,.|, 


m 


'!:l'^i 


m 


than  with  us.  I  have  been  surprised  to  hear  some  men  of  bun* 
ness,  but  of  wealth,  assert  that  cultivation  of  the  fine  arts  is  a 
proof  of  national  effeminacy!  American  ladies  bestow  those 
hours  of  leisure,  which  English  women  of  the  same  clt^ss  give  to 
drawing,  to  the  study  of  nature,  and  to  mental  cultivation,  almost 
wholly  on  personal  adornment.  Although  it  must  be  admitted 
that  owing  to  the  bad  training  of  their  servants,  ladies  on  this 
side  the  Atlantic  are  compelled  to  look  closely  into  the  details  of 
domestic  economy,  yet  it  is  odd  that  they  are  generally  far  less 
competent  to  the  performance  of  every-day  and  sick-room  duties 
than  the  daughters  of  our  noblest  houses  in  Great  Britain ;  and 
so  long  as  girls  here  devote  a  whole  hour  for  every  ten  minutes 
allowed  by  us  to  the  toilet,  they  have  no  right  to  make  domestic 
affairs  an  excuse  for  want  of  general  information.  Of  course 
there  are  brilliant  exceptions ;  but  I  fear  the  national  character 
of  women  in  the  United  States  more  resembles  that  of  self-in- 
dulgent Asiatics  than  of  energetic  Anglo-Saxons.  And,  as  far 
as  I  can  judge,  their  children  are  not  being  reared  in  better 
habits.  Human  nature  is  prone  to  extremes ;  and  these  facts  ex- 
plain why  some  individuals  desirous  of  improvement,  have  fallen 
into  a  mistaken  imitation  of  manly  character  instead  of  cultivat- 
ing feminine  duties.  Yesterday  we  dined  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Bancroft,  at  their  house  in  22nd-street.  Not  having  the  organ  of 
'  Number,'  I  am  rather  plagued  by  having  numeral  streets,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  customary  numbering  of  doors ;  and  8th  street  west 
and  28th  street  east  (No.  8,  perhaps),  make  a  terrible  hubbub  in 
my  memory. — The  23rd  of  November  was  a  very  wet  day,  and  I 
did  not  go  out. — Saturday,  November  25th,  Mrs.  Seymour  took 
me  so  see  Greenwood  Cemetery,  which  is  extensive,  and  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  heights  of  Brooklyn.  But  the  general 
appearance  of  this  place  is  injured  by  a  custom  of  using  upriglu 
white  stone  posts  as  boundaries  for  the  several  family  bur^^iiig- 
ing  grounds.  I  have  remarked  this  at  all  the  cemeteries,  except- 
ing those  of  Boston  and  Toronto.  Auburn  Cemetery,  belonging 
to  the  former  city,  is  much  the  most  agreeable  and  soothing  placo 
of  interment,  from  its  <]^uiet  and  unassuming,  as  well  as  picturesque 


h:ti|l|ii 


THE   fireman's    MONUMENT. 


147 


Bcenery.  Glare  and  grief  are  antagonistic,  and  intrusive  objects 
should  not  meet  an  eye  still  dim  with  tears ;  each  spot  of  ground 
consecrated  to  family  affection  should  bo  securely,  but  almost 
invisibly  guarded  from  intrusion.  Among  the  monuments  in 
New  York  Cemetery,  that  which  marks  the  burying-place  of  fire- 
men is  specially  interesting.  It  is  crowned  by  the  statue  of  a 
noble  spirit,  who  perished  in  his  endeavour  to  rescue  a  child<  In 
one  hand  he  holds  a  speaking-trumpet ;  his  other  arm  clasps  the 
infant,  as  with  a  firm,  but  apparently  hurried  step,  and  upturned 
head,  he  endeavours  to  reach  security  and  meets  death.  I  accom- 
panied a  party  to  see  the  Governor  review  the  militia  regiments 
of  New  York.  These,  like  the  yeomanry  of  England,  are  volun- 
teers ;  men  (even  in  the  ranks)  of  property  and  consideration. 
English,  French,  Dutch,  Americans,  Irish,  Scotch,  banded 
together  as  far  as  possible  according  to  their  several  national 
feelings  and  peculiarities,  but  each  individual  merging  his  national 
loyalty  in  one  common  enthusiasm  for  the  protection  of  the  coun- 
try he  has  permanently  adopted ; — meet  upon  a  day  which  is  here 
known  by  the  name  of  '  Evacuation  Day,'  to  make  a  grand 
demonstration  of  this  unity  of  sentiment ;  and,  although  their 
troops  were  not  so  compact  and  well-drilled  as  regulars,  yet  as  a 
body  of  five  or  six  thousan  ^  men,  not  called  out  for  more  than 
three  days  in  a  year,  they  are  much  to  be  admired  ;  and  one  regi- 
ment, all  dressed  in  bluish  grey,  manoeuvred  with  great  precision. 
I  did  not  feel  my  own  national  amour  propre  the  least 
wounded  upon  this  occasion.  We  may  now  rejoice  over  the 
'  evacuation'  with  as  hearty  good  will  as  the  Americans  them- 
selves, and  at  the  same  time  feel  a  rational  degree  of  pride  that 
old  England  sent  forth,  and  originally  nurtured,  such  promising 
citizens  for  the  New  World.  Although  the  Governor  of  New 
York  is  Commander-in-chief,  and  a  staff  of  oflScors  in  fujl  regi". 
mentals  surround  him,  he  wears  no  uniform,  but  always  appears 
the  civil  officer  of  the  State.     Mr.  Seymour  reviewed  these  troops 


in     fronf  r\f    flin     nj*^. 


TTXUll     uo     iiiu\yu      tixuiiUuiiiiuV    \n.     lilctuuvii 


r•,*^^ 


*»  c*      ^v\  «  rt  I 


TT..11 

XJLtiii. 

and  simple  dignity  as  might  have  been  evinced  by  any  one  of  the 
raoat  experienced  of  our  public  men.     It  is  impossible  to  find 


'\i<i 


(      ■ 

I'lr 

•4, 

1 

148 


BEY.    H.   W.   BEEOnSB. 


more  entire  freedom  from  self-consciousness  in  any  man,  while  the 
claims  of  duty  and  kindness  are  never  put  out  of  sight  or  omitted 
by  him. 

On  Sunday  I  went  to  a  chapel  in  Brooklyn  to  hear  the 
brother  of  Mrs.  Beecher  Stowe  preach  to  a  very  crowded  congre* 
gation.  His  sermon  was  one  of  great  eloquence  and  originality; 
in  style  and  manner  too  familiar  to  suit  English  ideas :  but  it  was 
eminently  practical,  and  so  much  of  truth  and  wisdom  was  to  be 
culled  out  of  a  somewhat  rugged  and  informal  chain  of  argu- 
ment, that  no  eye  slumbered  and  no.  person's  attention  flagged 
during  a  very  long  discourse. 

November  27. — This  morning  I  breakfasted  with  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  B ,  to  meet  several  agreeable  people,  among  them  the 

preacher,  Mr.  H.  W.  Beecher.  I  liked  his  earnest,  powerful 
mind ;  although  upon  the  topics  of  slavery  and  prohibitory  laws, 
I  doubted  his  arguments.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Governor,  Mrs 
Seymour,  and  I  visited  print-shops  and  galleries.  He  wished 
much  to  see  Sir  Edwin  Landseer's  picture  of  *  The  Twins,'  but  it 
had  been  just  packed  up  and  sent  off  to  Boston. 

November  28. — We  all  breakfasted  with  Miss  Lynch  the 
poetess;  we  had  there  another  pleasant  party,  and  again  Mr. 
Beecher,  whose  discussions  with  the  Governor  upon  social  sub- 
jects were  very  interesting.  I  forgot  to  mention  the  opera  last 
night — Grisi  and  Mario :  the  latter  sang  to  perfection ;  Grisi  less 
rich  and  powerful  in  tone  than  I  remember  her  formerly,  but  still 
wonderful.  Mr.  D took  me  to  visit  a  gentlemanly  and  intel- 
ligent young  man,  by  trade  a  coachmaker,  who  seems  to  have  tra 
veiled  and  observed  nature  more  than  is  common  in  this  land  of 
business ;  and  in  his  possession  I  saw  one  of  those  curious  eyeless 
fish  from  the  Mammoth  Gave  of  Kentucky.  It  is  preserved  in 
spirits,  about  the  size  and  somewhat  of  the  form  of  a  fresh-watei 
perch,  about  five  inches  long.  I  thought  there  was  a  faint  mark 
on  the  spots  where  eyes  usually  are,  but  nothing  more :  and  a 
small  kind  of  cray-fish  from  the  same  locality  was  also  deficient 
in  visual  organs.  I  shall  probably  go  to  that  Cave,  when  I  may 
procure  specimens ;  and  I  shall  try  to  get  one  preserved  without 


PHILANTHROPIC   INSTITUTIONS. 


14€ 


epirits.    The  rest  of  my  day  was  taken  up  by  necessary  social 
visits ;  but  I  saw  various  parts  of  the  town. 

Wednesday^  November  29. — I  went  with  the  Governor  to 
view  all  the  Philanthropic  and  Penal  establishments,  which,  much 
to  the  credit,  the  generosity,  and  the  good  feeling  of  New  York 
State,  have  been  founded  and  organized  upon  the  two  Islands  of 
Randall  and  Blackwell.  The  East  River  pours  down  in  rapid 
torrents  on  either  side  of  these  islands,  so  as  to  add  security,  as 
well  as  to  contribute  to  the  salubrity  of  these  establishments.  A 
foar-oared  boat  took  us  off  about  seven  miles  from  the  city.  We 
first  landed  upon  Bandall  Island,  where  there  is  a  very  large 
Refuge  just  opened  for  delinquents ;  and  there  the  great  pauper 
establishments  for  children,  and  also  an  Emigrant's  Home,  are 
situated.  Eight  '.  -  "! .  osd  happy-looking  orderly  boys  marched 
about  to  the  time  (  '  *  own  drums  and  fifes,  forming  a  young 
regiment.  They  manoeuvred  with  more  precision,  and  dressed 
their  lines  more  evenly,  than  the  troops  we  saw  reviewed  on  Fri- 
day. Their  commander  and  drill  sergeant  was  an  idiot  man 
about  forty.  He  has  the  love  and  the  strict  obedience  of  his  chil- 
dren, although  upon  every  subject  excepting  military  discipline 
his  mind  is  a  blank.  It  was  pleasing  to  see  the  innocent  enjoy- 
ment of  this  poor  general  and  his  young  soldiers.  One  point  of 
sympathy  links  them  together ;  may  they  remain  warriors  of  love 
rather  than  of  contention — the  teachers  and  the  learners  of  Chris- 
tian obedience  and  of  religious  duty.  The  girls  (about  six  hun- 
dred) appeared  to  be  equally  well  trained  and  cheerful  in  their 
several  occupations.  In  no  institution  have  I  ever  seen  cleanli- 
ness  and  order  more  complete  and  perfect  than  in  these.  The 
quarter  for  emigrants  also  gave  rise  to  feelings  of  satisfaction.  It 
is  open  to  all  destitute  strangers  during  any  period  not  exceeding 
five  years  from  their  first  arrival  on  these  chores.  Six  hundred 
infants,  upon  an  average,  are  yearly  born  within  its  precincts. 
We  saw  mothers  and  infants  well  nursed  and  cared  for — occupa- 
tion for  the  industrious,  training  for  the  idle ;  and  all  appeared 
quiet  and  contented  in  their  temporary  home.  I  heard  of  very 
little  sickness — only  five  or  six  oases  of  cholera ;  but  there  are 


160 


SOCIAL   ENOAOEM'^NTS. 


fl 

■ 

1      '' 

i(3^iHH 

h 

^B 

m 

'  ^H 

H  tki 

:M 

EwBH' 

hospitals  for  children  with  chronic  diseases— one  ward  full  of 
whooping-cough  patients,  and  another  where  a  few  were  sick  with 
feverish  complaints,  ui  thoroughly  ventilated,  and  apparently  all 
made  as  comfoi  table  as  circumstances  would  admit.     On  Black* 
well  Island  we  saw  a  large  and  excellent  Asylum  for  the  Insane, 
a  Pauper  House  of  Industry,  and  a  Penal  establishment — ^good  in 
their  several  ways.     On  the  two  islands  there  is  a  population  of 
ten  thousand — children,  women,  and  men — destitute,  sick,  or  sin- 
ful.    Nowhere  can  one  find  a  spirit  of  more  generous  and  en- 
lightened charity  than  that  evinced  by  these  and  the  other  phil- 
anthropic institutions  of  New  York.     A  great  variety  of  shipping 
and  numerous  steamers  are  constantly  passing  down  the  river  on 
each  side.     The  sight  of  these,  manoeuvring  through  its  shoals 
and  rapids,  must  be  a  constant  source  of  amusemert  and  interest 
to  the  island  denizens.     I  saw  a  steamboat  which  whirled  down 
with  a  marvellous  rapidity,  and  numerous  sailing-vessels  were 
tacking  backwards  and  forwards,  preparing  to  pass  through  that 
*  Hell-gate '  on  the  river  where  an  English  frigate  was  once 
wrecked.     This  appellation  was  derived  from  Dutch  settlers.    We 
again  entered  a  boat,  and  crossed  the  rapid  stream  to  a  point 
where  carriages  soon  conveyed  our  party  back  to  the  St.  Nicholas 
Hotel  in  time  to  fulfil  a  dinner  engagement.     I  had  the  pleasure 
of  sitting  by  the  poet  Bryant,  with  his  picturesque  grey  head  and 
beard. 

Thursd-^.y,  November  30. — Thanksgiving-day ;  an  annual  fes- 
tival, religious  and  social,  commanded  and  celebrated  by  each 
State.  But  it  was  sad  to  me  ;  for  that  morning  brought  accounts 
from  the  armies  at  Sebastopol,  and  tidings  of  the  death  of  Gene- 
ral S ,  and  others  known  to  me,  or  dear  to  those  I  know. 

Still  I  cannot  wish  the  place  to  be  taken  until  our  troops  arc 
strengthened  by  reinforcements. 

Friday,  December  1. — Dr.  Torrey  came  after  breakfast ;  ht 
looked  over  my  gathering  of  plants,  and  was  much  interested  by 
the  specimens  of  those  got  at  Point  Levi.  The  fern  I  1  lund  in 
wet  meadows  at  Lake  St.  Charles,  is  Botryohium  simplex.  I 
find  the  Garadias  are  most  of  them  parasitical  upon  other  living 


rOCTRINE  OF   C0MPENSATI0K8. 


151 


plants,  which  makes  the  idea  of  introducing  them  into  our  Eng- 
lish gardens  nearly  hopeless.     Mr.  D was  so  obliging  as  t."» 

guide  me  to  some  necessary  calls.  I  made  one  attempt  to  find 
my  own  way  through  these  puzzling  streets,  and  it  proved  very 
unsuccessful.  Saturday,  at  Professor  Benwick's,  21,  6th  Avenue 
— I  came  here  to  an  early  dinner,  after  parting  with  the  Gov- 
ernor and  Mrs.  Seymour  for  a  few. days;  they  promise  to  meet 
me  on  Thursday,  at  the  hotel,  West  Point.     Monday :   Mr. 

B has  made  an  engagement  for  me  to  go  to  see  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

G.  S ,  on  the  Hudson,  where  I  shall  meet  Washington  Irving, 

who  lives  near.     Before  leaving  the  St,  Nicholas,  I  was  annoyed 
by  discovering  that  my  four  beat  coloured  drawings  of  Niagara 
Falls  had  been  abstracted  from  a  portfolio,  and  other  indifferent 
ones  left.     This  looks  as  if  the  thief  had  an  artistic  judgment, 
which  is  not  very  common  here.     I  have  offered  a  reward,  and 
done  all  possible  for  their  restoration ;  the  loss  is  irreparable  to 
me :  and  it  is  a  poor  consolation  that  any  one  should  have  con- 
sidered them  valuable  enough  to  be  an  object  of  theft  I    The 
Canada  Falls,  and  the  American  Falls  from  Goat  Island,  the  lat- 
ter at  sunrise  and  the  former  at  sunset,  were  the  subjects  which 
seem  to  have  attracted  the  notice  and  the  cupidity  of  some  one 
who  took  them  away  from  the  Governor's  private  room.     This  is 
the  third  robbery  I  have  suffered  since  I  came  to  America.  Paint- 
brushes and  pencils  all  stolen  out  of  my  bag  at  Montreal ;  cloaks 
and  shawls  carried  off  during  the  railway  accident  between  Ni- 
agara and  Canandaigua ;  and  now  my  drawings !    So  many  in- 
di:  jrent  subjects  cross  the  Atlantic,  in  hopes  cf  finding  prey  here, 
that  pickpocketing  and  petty  thefts  are  common;  indeed  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  guard  against  them ;  and  according  to  the 
doctrine  of  compensations,  I  must  be  content  to  put  up  with  such 
trivial  ff  ISeries,  in  the  hope  they  may  frank  my  life  and  limbs 
through  tl  e  perils  of  extensive  journeying  by  land  and  sea.     Sun- 
day, I  weni,  to  Grace  Church,  a  Gothic  elevation  designed  by  a  son 
of  Professor  Benwick ;  the  effect  is  much  injured  by  all  the  windows 
being  of  painted  glass,  of  vivid  colours,  ill  arranged ;  there  were 
some  good  bits,  and  erasure  with  a  sponge  would  relieve  these 


152 


DXAV  AND  DUMB  IHSTIT'ITIB. 


itli^  1 


loaded  panes  and  improve  the  general  e£fect,  even  without  any 
change  in  the  coloured  glass.  As  it  is,  the  church  is  made  too 
ohscure,  and  good  taste  offended  by  red,  blue,  and  yellow,  inter- 
spersed without  the  smallest  reference  to  harmony — that  great 
requirement  without  which  design  is  nothing  in  stained  windows. 
I  walked  back  to  5th  Avenue  in  such  heavy  rain  that  no  um- 
brella could  avail  to  keep  me  dry,  even  for  a  short  distance ;  and 
though  my  'locality'  bump  carried  me  back  in  the  right  direction, 
yet  on  arriving  at  ^he  place,  I  rang  at  a  wrong  door ;  for  as  there 
is  a  street  at  right  angles  to  the  house,  I  had  never  studied  its 
exterior  appearance,  and  therefore  was  at  a  loss  to  distinguish  it 
from  three  other  comers ;  till  I  walked  up  stairs  and  disturbed  a 

strange  gentleman,  I  did  not  find  out  my  error.     Mr.  F ,  the 

protector  of  emigrants,  whom  I  met  last  at  Spencer  Wood,  ac- 
companied me  yesterday  to  see  the  New  York  Institution  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb.  I  had  only  a  short  time  for  my  visit,  but  it 
was  sufficient  to  satisfy  my  mind  of  their  excellent  training ;  one 
of  the  masters  is  himself  a  deaf  mute  who  was  brought  up  in  the 
school,  and  the  wife  of  another  was  also  a  pupil ;  she  is  pretty 
and  intelligent,  but  still  remains  only  able  to  express  herself  by 
signs  and  writing. 

I  was  introduced  to  the  first  class  as  an  £ngliah  lady  who  had 
crossed  the  Atlantic  to  see  their  country  and  its  institutions ; 
each  young  person  wrote  upon  his  or  her  slate  a  little  address, 
varied  in  expression  according  to  individual  character  and  feeling. 
Gratification  at  my  vist  and  respect  for  Britain  were  predominant ; 
one  or  two  made  use  of  the  expression  <  proud '  England,  but 
erased  it  immediately  upon  my  suggesting  that  '  old '  England 
would  be  more  appropriate.  The  superintendent,  Mr.  Peat,  made 
a  request  that  I  would  propose  a  subject  upon  whidi  they  could 
offer  the  conclusions  of  their  own  minds.  I  inquired  '  Whether 
the  motive  of  love,  or  that  of  emulation,  was  that  by  which  the 
course  of  education  could  best  be  guided.'  All  but  one  preferred 
love :  some  because  it  was  the  great  Christian  rule ;  others  because 
it  was  the  most  effective  ,*  and  one,  who  at  first  was  in  favour  of 
emulation,  rubbed  out  the  sentence  with  an  air  of  repentance, 


THE  MAINE   LAW. 


158 


>r :  for  as  thero 


when  she  read  what  she  thought  the  better  choice  made  by  ^   : 

associates.     I  found  that  neither  Mr.  F nor  Mr.  C wtjf  e 

of  my  opinion  respecting  the  best  modes  of  eradicating  slavery 
and  drunkenness.  I  thought  their  reasons  for  passin^^  the  Maine 
law  told  against  themselves ;  for  instance — '  that  a  large  number 
of  the  population  were  in  favour  of  it.'  Id  not  this  very  fact  a 
proof  that  if  you  leave  improvement  to  take  its  own  course,  the 
misuse  of  stimulants  will  cure  itself;  and  a  proof,  also,  that  in- 
temperance  is  gradually  lessening  ?  For,  some  years  ago,  the 
people  would  not  have  favoured  a  sumptuary  law  working  against 
their  own  liberty,  for  the  purpose  of  encouraging  sobriety.  It  is 
said  the  Maine  law  is  acting  advantageously  in  that  State.  Not 
a  good  argument,  I  think ;  because  temporary  success  does  not 
justify  mistaken  principles;  besides  which,  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  the  improvement  is  more  on  the  surface  than  radical ; 
that  much  more  drinking  is  now  done  on  the  sly ;  and  thus  ill- 
informed  though  well-intentioned  people  have  been  offering  a  bonus 
to  hypocrisy,  while  they  thought  they  were  discouraging  intem- 
perance. I  find  there  are  now  laws  enough  in  the  State  of  New 
York  to  keep  down  liquor-shops,  if  they  were  executed :  but  no ; 
it  is  too  difficult  to  put  in  force  laws  against  individual  failings. 
Therefore  such  laws  become  a  dead  letter ;  and  now  they  want  to 
heap  more  prohibitions  on  the  statute-book,  to  make  up  for  not 
enforcing  the  first.  They  may  as  well  fight  the  wind.  Human 
rature  was  put  into  this  world  to  learn  self-control,  and  to 
gain  experience ;  a  man  will  never  be  the  more  virtuous  for  pro- 
hibitions, or  the  more  strong-minded  for  being  kept  wholly  away 
from  temptation ;  he  must  learn  to  refuse  the  evil  and  choose  the 
good,  and,  if  ho  will  not  learn  this  by  the  incuioation  of  good 
principles,  he  will  never  become  more  strong  in  viriue  by  being 
kept  out  of  the  reach  of  evil.  This  is  the  principle  of  the 
public  schools  in  ISngland.  The  head  masters  of  Eton,  and 
perhaps  of  the  oCher  schools,  have  falsified  tK<  rsith  regard  to 
smoking ;  and  what  is  the  consequence  ?  The  boys  consider  it 
manly  to  brave  punishment ;  and  there  are  few  among  them  to 
whom  cigars  are  not  growing  to  be  a  necessary  indulgence; 
7* 


iill'i:  -.1 


154 


WASHINGTON    IRVIMO. 


Ml 


r,  i 


iliil&lillilM'' 


besides  which,  they  half  smother  themselves  by  patting  their  heads 
ander  water  to  disguise  the  smell ;  whereas,  if  the  habit  had  been 
treated  as  ungentlemanly  and  suited  only  to  the  ale-house,  without 
any  positive  prohibition,  it  would  probably,  like  other  faiahious, 
have  become  obsolete. 

December  4, — I  went  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B and  Mr 

0 to  a  pretty  cottage  on  the  Hudson  Biver,  to  visit  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  G.  S :  the  country  all  white ;  so  much  snow  that,  for 

the  first  time,  I  was  driven  in  a  sleigh  from  t;  e  railway-station. 
I  found  a  pleasant  family,  whose  mode  of  life  and  arrangements 
were  very  much  those  of  a  small  household  in  England.  We 
paid  a  morning  visit  to  Washington  Irving :  he  is  a  much 
younger  looking  man  than  I  expected  to  see ;  nothing  of  the  pet- 
ted or  the  spoilt  favourite  in  his  simple  retiring  manner :  he  was 
all,  and  more,  than  I  expected ;  and  I  felt  unalloyed  pleasure  in 
such  an  introduction.  Bitter  winds  and  snow  continuihg,  I  must 
give  up  any  idea  of  West  Point  for  the  present,  and  be  content 
with  two  or  thr:o  days  pleasantly  and  quietly  spent.  To-morrow 
I  shall  go  to  Tarry  Town ;  and  if  the  Governor  and  Mrs.  Sey- 
mour do  not  meet  me  there,  I  shall  fulfil  my  engagement  to  them 
by  returning  to  Albany. 

December  8. — I  came  on  to  Albany  last  night  in  cold  snowy 
weather,  and  rejoined  my  friends,  as  they  were  unable  to  come  to 
me.  The  journey  was  not  pleasant,  though  the  banks  of  the 
Hudson  were  still  fine,  even  in  their  wintry  dress.  The  steamer 
wliich  brought  us  over  the  river  from  the  railway  station  went 
crashing  through  the  ice ;  and  I  was  not  sorry  to  find  myself  in 
State-street. 

Friday,  Sth. — Mrs.  Seymour  took  me  out  in  a  sleigh  to  pay 
;      visits;  the  coldest  day  I  have  ever  felt. 

iturday,  December  9. — ^We  walked  to  the  Senate-house  and 
'"  other  places.  The  streets  very  slippery;  sleighs  with  their 
ucliii  in.  all  directions.  Dined  out.  Better  news  from  the  East : 
reinforcements  have  reached  our  army.  As  it  has  already  fought 
and  conquered  five  to  one,  I  cannot  share  the  apprehensions  of 
^hose  who  fear  the  allied  troops  will  be  beaten  out  of  the  Crimea 


OOVEBNOR   SEYMOUa. 


155 


The  power  of  Bussiu  wus  underrated,  and  for  that  we  are  pun- 
ished. ..,..  .^-;,-,v;  >   .,,,:  ..^  ;  ,,,,.; 

December  10. — There  has  been  a  thaw,  and  snow  is  decreas- 
ing. The  sleighs  seem  to  go  heavily ;  those  with  one  horse  are 
called  cutters.  It  is  only  the  machines  drawn  by  two  which  are 
dignified  by  the  name  of  sleighs.  The  Governor  is  busy  winding 
up  business,  so  as  to  place  the  affairs  of  the  State  in  the  hands  of 
his  successor,  Myron  Clark,  by  the  1st  of  January.  I  have  not 
seen  this  gentleulan ;  it  does  not  seom  that  his  talents  ^re  apprc- 
ciateJ  highly  by  individuals  who  have  been  voting  for  him  because 
he  belongs  to  their  particular  party,  while  Mr.  Seymour  appears 
to  be  liked  by  those  who  voted  against  him.  I  extract  the  fol- 
lowing from  a  paper  politically  opposed : — 

'Governor  Seymour,  in  his  late  admirable  address  at  the 
opening  of  the  New  House  of  Refuge,  near  New  York,  stated  that 
'  during  this  last  year  he  had  been  compelled  to  act  upon  tivo 
thousand  cases  for  pardon.  This  duty  is  not  only  most  ardu- 
ous, but  most  perplexing  and  unpleasant.  7^0  exercise  the  par- 
doning power  discreetly  re(][uires  much  labour  and  anxious  thought ; 
the  entreaties  of  friends,  of  wives,  parents,  children,  is  often  over- 
whelmingly painful ;  and  he  would  be  more  than  human  who  did 
not  sometimes  err  in  the  exercise  of  this  important  preroga- 
tive. Our  Governors  have,  however,  seldom  subjected  themselves 
to  just  censure  in  the  exercise  of  their  power,  and  Governor  Sey- 
mour as  seldom  as  any  of  his  predecessors.  His  decisions  have 
almost  uniformly  been  wise  and  humane :  and  if  he  has  sometimes 
crushed  the  hopes  of  the  unhappy  relatives  of  the  imprisoned,  it 
has  never  been  because  he  did  not  sympathize  with  them  in  their 
deep  misfortune,  but  because  he  believed  justice  forbade  the  exer- 
cise of  the  clemency  sought.' 

When  one  considers  the  vast  distances  in  this  Union,  and  the 
size  of  its  component  parts,  it  is  easy  to  understand  how  little  a 
government  of  centralization  can  ever  suit  the  wants  of  so  large 
and  heterogeneous  an  Empire.  The  State  of  New  York  alone  is 
as  large  as  all  England,  and  it  is  evident  that  local  governments 
such  as  California  or  Virginia,  must  haVe  a  much  better  idea  of 


156 


SECTARIAN    ASSUMPTION. 


r- 


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,,J'    .4|i,-;ii!|. 

'!  j|^:  14  if,  ■  li 


',  m 


i  V- 


the  genius  and  the  requirements  of  their  several  countries  than 
can  be  gained  by  the  President  and  the  Congress  in  session  at 
Washington ;  so,  for  all  local  purposes,  each  State  ought  to  govern 
itself,  and  that  must  have  been  the  intention  of  the  founders  of 
the  Union. 

It  is  true  that  as  yet  police  and  postal  arrangements  are  in 
their  in&ncy,  and  to  an  English  observer  they  appear  but  clum- 
sily  organized;  but  time  will  improve  aud  consolidate  these 
matters,  and  I  should  hope  that  a  future  generation  will  also  con- 
sider the  exercise  of  political  rights  as  due  ratJ.or  to  property, 
and  the  virtues  of  principle,  independence,  and  freedom  from  sel- 
fish Liotives,  than  to  the  mere  fact  of  an  ignorant,  profligate  indi- 
vidual having  lived,  and  perhaps  misused,  twenty-one  years  of 
life ;  so  instead  of  the  '  Know-nothing '  proposition  to  take  away 
the  elective  franchise  from  newly  imported  citizens  (which  would 
be  invidious  enough  among  a  people  who  owe  their  success  and 
prosperity  to  a  mixture  of  races  added  to  the  Anglo-Saxon  ele- 
ment), it  appears  common  sense  that  the  electors  of  Governors 
should  be  those  who  have  some  reasonable  ideas  of  government, 
and  some  stake  in  the  common  prosperity.  We  this  day  heard  a 
sermon  embodying  higher  church  assumption  than  even  English 
Tractarianism ;  it  strongly  maintained  infallibility  for  the  Protes- 
tant Episcopal  Church  in  Scriptural  matters.  The  kind  and  good 
Bishop  of  New  York  was  present ;  but  his  advocacy  of  Church 
claims  is  not  that  of  Spiritual  despotism ;  like  F^ndlon,  Bishop 
Horatio  Potter  would  lead  home  the  peasant^s  cow ;  his  Christian 
benevolence  can  never  be  moved  or  guided  by  a  thought  which 
could  mar  its  charity. — The  rain  falls  fast,  and  I  hope  to  get 
south  before  snow  and  ice  again  encumber  the  roads  and  streets. 

Monday,  December  11. — Snow  again,  but  the  thaw  proceeding. 
I  sent  my  letter,  containing  the  hair  of  the  poor  old  woman  whose 
son  has  become  a  Mormon,  by  a  channel  through  which  it  may 
probably  reach  the  Salt  Lake.  V  think  the  possible  future  of  that 
extraordinary  community  an  interesting  speculation.  Strange 
that  the  on-scourings  of  European  civilization  should  establish 
polygamy — a  practice  branded  as  felonious  by  every  other  State 


HOPES  FOR   THE  FUTURE. 


167 


in  the  Union,  a  barbarism  which  even  Turkey  is  gradually  casting 
off!  Does  not  this  show  the  tendency  of  ignorance  to  return 
again  to  the  habits  of  savage  life,  and  also  to  go  back  to  the 
government  of  a  theocracy  because  they  feel  themselves  incapable 
of  self-government  ?  Yet  even  the  present  condition  and  past 
history  of  this  singular  community  is  not  without  some  elements 
of  grandeur,  and  even  of  promise.  Expelled  by  persecution  and 
violence  from  the  parent  State,  the  Mormons  earnestly  and  saga* 
ciously  employed  themselves  to  build  up  a  state  for  themselves. 
'  Driven  from  civilized  life,  they  sought  rest  and  a  home  in  the 
wilderness  and  the  desert.'  Blinded  as  they  are  by  superstition 
and  fanaticism,  they  are  still  pioneers  of  civilization,  and  it  is  im- 
possible not  to  admire  the  vigour  and  energy  with  which  they 
accomplished  their  hegira.  Sitting  proudly  at  the  foot  of  the 
Wahsach  mountains,  the  City  of  the  Salt  Lake  begins  to  fulfil  the 
magnificent  projects  of  its  founders,  and  rolls  it  along  an  arid 
desert  like  the  roses  of  Jericho  (Anastatica),  to  find  fresh  soil 
and  new  homes  in  the  desert.  Their  settlement  only  dates  from 
'47 :  yet  wide  and  well-watered  streets  and  gardens,  churches, 
school-houses,  mills,  and  public  buildings,  now  ornament  a  city 
laid  out  upon  a  plan  capable  of  including  half  a  million  of  inhab- 
itants. Though  the  people  and  their  institutions  have  departed 
widely  and  vilely  from  the  laws  of  morality  and  Christianity,  as 
the  darkness  of  ignorance  becomes  enlightened,  we  must  hope  the 
influence  of  designing  villains  will  be  shaken  off,  and  that  of  the 
better  minded  gain  a  reasonable  influence  over  the  deluded,  but 
not  evil-intentioned  majority;  so  that,  before  very  long,  the 
elough  which  at  present  contaminates  and  defaces  the  body  politio 
of  the  Mormonite  oommunitT  may  be  cast  off. 

Your  affectionate 

A.M.  M. 


•:*  ' 


LETTER  XIV. 


Nkw  Tobk,  Dec.  18, 1854. 

My  dear  Friends, — 

An  American  gentleman  with  whom  I  have  become  well 
acquainted,  took  charge  of  me  yesterday  from  Albany.  I  left 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour  with  regret,  but  th^y  promise  to  come  to 
Washington  before  I  proceed  farther  south.  On  Saturday  I  again 
visited  the  great  palaeontologist,  Mr.  Hall.  He  gave  me  an 
interesting  and  instructive  geological  chart  of  his  own  arrange- 
ment, which,  while  it  exemplifies  only  the  geology  of  New  York 
and  the  adjoining  States,  is,  in  fact,  an  epitome  of  that  of  the 
world ;  as  from  the  primitive  rocks,  the  strata  follow  in  regular 
succession  up  to  the  cretaceous,  tertiary,  and  alluvial,  wanting 
only  those  beds  of  oolite  and  chalk  which,  though  well  known  in 
England,  are  not  to  be  seen  here.  In  Mr.  Hall's  map,  the  prin- 
cipal fossils  to  be  found  in  each  formation  are  represented  above 
it — a  plan  which  considerably  assists  the  tyro.  The  Governor  of 
New  York  promises  me  some  specimens  of  a  new  mineral  lately 
found  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  which  has  been  named 
*  chloractolite,'  from  its  bright  starry  lustre.  It  something  resem- 
bles a  dark  green  serpentine  in  colour,  but  the  shining  brilliant 
appearance  it  has  will  render  it  valuable  for  jewellery  purposes. 
No  specimens  have  yet  been  found  much  larger  than  a  sixpence, 
and  most  I  saw  were  not  bigger  than  pearls.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hall 
came  to  Albany  in  the  evening ;  he  told  uf»  about  his  geokigical 
tour  round  £ake  'Superior  and  Michigan,  and  let  me  have  reports 


THE   FIVE  PODTM. 


159 


ToKK,  Dec.  18, 1854. 


by  the  United  States'  geologists  Foster  and  Whitney,  which  in- 
clude some  very  interesting  sketches  of  the  trap  rock  called  the 
Monument  on  Isle  Boyal,  and  of  the  singular  castle-shaped  foima- 
tioDS  which  border  part  of  Lake  Superior.  I  recollect  that 
Banvard's  Mississippi  Panorama  represented  rocks  beyond  St. 
Louis  of  a  castellated  form.  The  light  was  more  favourable  this 
morning  for  seeing  the  Hudson  Biver  than  when  I  went  up  it 
last.  We  left  much  snow  at  Albany ;  but  upon  approaching  New 
York  the  ground  was  no  longer  white,  and  an  afternoon  clear  and 
sunshiny  concluded  by  a  promising  red  suilset.  We  arrived  at 
the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel  soon  after  five  o'clock.  Mrs.  Elizabeth 
Blackwell  came  to  see  me  in  the  evening.  I  had  some  conversa- 
tion with  Mr.  Delcvan,  one  of  the  conscientious  promoters  of  the 
Maine  Law,  &c.  I  was  not  convinced  by  his  arguments ;  T  could 
not  help  thinking  that  he  forgot  the  American  principle  of  indi- 
vidual freedom :  the  same  reasoning  he  made  use  of  would  hold 
good  for  every  kind  of  interference  with  our  neighbors  when  we 
disapprove  their  conduct.  It  is  curious  that  the  New  England 
people,  descendants  of  those  Pilgrin.-  Fathers  who  crossed  the 
Atlantic  to  preserve  their  own  freedom  of  opinion,  have  ever 
proved  themselves  intolerant  as  regards  the  spiritual  liberty  of 
othtirs. 

December  15. — I  visited  the  Five  Points  yesterday,  and  my 
expectations  were  fully  realized.  No  fine  buildings,  no  clap-trap 
exhibitions  of  classification  and  order  and  philanthropic  lirry  rj. 
Mr.  Pease's  charity  '  worketh  by  love.'  The  destitute,  the  frieud- 
iess,  the  erring,  there  find  aid,  friendship,  advice,  and  consolation ; 
the  poor  '  have  the  Gospel  preached  to  them,'  and  the  sick  and  the 
sorrowful  are  healed,  comforted,  and  bid  to  go  in  peace,  as  Christ 
would  have  bid  them  go. 

December  16. — A  return  of  visits  occupied  ne  irly  the  whole 
of  yesterday,  as  I  set  out  this  morning  by  rail  to  Philadelphia. 
I  went  across  the  ferry  to  Brooklyn,  to  call  upon  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

S 's  (of  Ottawa)  youngest  daughter,  Mrs.  C ,  and  I  there 

met  John  Mackay,  who  told  me  that  mj  wish  is  gratified  by  the 
namo  of  Bytown  being  finally  changed  to  that  of  Ottawa  City. 


k' 


i-' 


I 


m 


11  '« 


160 


NEW    YORK. 


Tho  weather  here  is  now  damp  and  mild.  I  crossed  the  North 
River  ferry  at  nine  o'clock,  to  take  tho  cars  for  Philadelphia. 
Wo  passed  through  several  towns,  in  a  flat  country,  devoid  of  pic. 
turesquo  scenery  for  the  first  sixty  miles.  Then  at  last  I  coulo 
have  believed  myself  on  tho  western  outskirts  of  the  Now  Forest, 
iSubstituting  hemlock  spruce  and  red  cedars  for  the  yews  and  hol- 
lies of  England.  As  wo  approached  the  shores  of  the  Delaware, 
tlie  red  cedars  became  so  numerous  that  many  of  the  fields  were 
bordered  with  them ;  and  from  their  regularity  I  suppose  thoy 
must  have  been  planted.  I  am  glad  to  see  some  signs  of  planted 
trees  in  this  State  and  that  of  New  York  ;  so  some  of  these  days 
these  may  be  fine  single  trees.  At  present  I  have  not  met  with 
anything  I  should  call  fine-spreading  ornamental  timber ;  and  I 
see  that  it  can  only  arise  from  new  plantations ;  for  the  trees  of 
the  forest  run  up  tall  and  slender,  without  tap  roots,  and  they 
have  such  slight  hold  of  the  ground,  that  when  thinned  out  or  left 
standing  alone,  the  first  storni  lays  them  prostrate.  The  Dela- 
ware is  a  fine  river,  and  Philadelphia  an  extensive  city ;  but  there 
is  an  uninteresting  sameness  in  its  long  streets  of  rod  brick  houses, 
with  glaring  white  window-shutters.  Circumstances  will  not  allow 
of  my  prolonging  my  stay  beyond  to-morrow.  I  observe  no  more 
evidence  of  Quakerism  in  this  town  than  in  any  other. 

Sunday,  December  17. — A  gloomy-looking,  wintry  day,  though 
without  snow,  and  the  cold  less  extreme  than  at  Albany.  After 
a  search  of  two  hours  yesterday  afternoon,  I  found  the  residence 
of  the  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania,  brother  to  the  Bishop  of  New 
York.  I  was  kindly  received  by  Mrs.  Potter,  and  spent  the  even- 
ing at  her  house  ;  but  the  bishop  is  absent  upon  distant  episcopal 
duty — much  to  my  regret.  I  was  taken  to  St.  Andrew's  church 
this  morning,  and  heard  a  sermon  devoid  of  hope  and  love — de- 
pravity, total  depravity — gloom,  misery,  and  despair — the  light 
of  the  Gospel  extinguished,  and  sin  and  Satin  made  despotic  over 
this  wretched  world !  The  church  was  crammed ;  but  I  saw 
several  people  sleeping  soundly  through  the  preacher's  denuncia- 
tions, and  few  appeared  to  be  edified.  I  have  now  heard  tho  two 
extremes  of  preachers,  high  and  low,  each  taking  a  one-sided  view, 


BIBTER8   OF   OHASITT. 


161 


for  the  trees  of 


and  each  maintaining  a  kind  of  infallibility  for  their  own  indl 
vidual  opinion  under  the  shields  of  Church  and  Scripture — both 
equally  dogmatic,  and  equally  sure  that  every  view  except  his  own 
is  erroneous.     I  drank  tea  with  Mrs.  Potter,  and  at  nine  o'clock 

Dr.  R called  to  take  mo  to  see  Mrs.  R ,  and  her  fine 

house  and  conservatories,  gorgeous  French  satin  furniture,  and 
Gobelin  tapestried  chairs  worthy  of  Windsor  Castle.  Both  in 
furniture  and  dress,  the  majority  of  American  ladies  appear  to  bo 
wholly  regardless  of  expense. 

Baltimore,  December  19. — Before  leaving  Philadelphia  yes- 
terday, I  made  acquaintance  with  an  agreeable  physician.  Dr. 

G ,  who  introduced  me  to  our  consul,  Mr.  Mathew.     The 

consul  knows  friends  of  mine,  and  I  was  much  obliged  to  him  for 
some  useful  information.  Although  heavy  snow  fell  the  early 
part  of  the  morning,  as  my  departure  was  delayed  till  twelve 
o'clock,  the  weather  cleared.  I  had  a  pleasant  sunshiny  journey 
of  four  hours  to  Baltimore,  where  I  found  few  signs  of  snow. 

Mrs.  W ,  one  of  my  pleasant  acquaintances  of  the  White 

Mountains,  met  me  at  this  Iiotel,  and  took  me  to  her  home — snug, 
cheerful,  and  well  (though  not  too  finely)  furnished.  My  friend 
showed  me  some  shells,  and  evinced  more  interest  in  natural  pro- 
ductions than  I  have  found  among  ladles  generally  in  this  coun- 
try. We  passed  over  three  rivprs  in  our  way  here  yes'  irday — the 
Delaware,  the  Gunpowder,  and  the  Susquehanna;  the  last  a  mag- 
nificent water,  and  the  same  I  saw  as  a  smaller  stream  ia  my  way 
from  Ithaca  to  Syracuse.  Baltimore  is  situated  upon  the  Pataps- 
00,  which  is  here  very  broad,  and  more  like  an  arm  of  the  sea 
than  a  river. 

December  20. — Mrs.  W took  me  this  morning  to  seo 

Mount  Hope,  a  lunatic  asylum,  managed  by  about  twenty  Sisters 
of  Charity,  who  reside  at  a  house  in  a  very  pretty  situation,  over- 
looking the  city  and  neighbourhood.  The  sisters  act  under  the 
direction  of  an  excellent  Protestant  physician — Dr.  Stokes.  No 
bigotry  upon  either  side  mars  Christian  labour ;  love,  cheerful- 
ness, comfort,  and  industry  alleviate  and  bless  the  inmates  of 
Mount  Hope.    So  much  pains  is  taken  to  avoid  even  the  appear* 


% 


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162 


WASHINGTON. 


anoe  of  coercion,  that  the  window-frames,  which  are  made  of 
oast-iron  of  a  particular  construction,  are  opened  a  little  way  b5 
the  same  movement  at  top  and  bottom  ;  thus  letting  in  sufficient 
air,  without  the  possibility  of  the  gap  being  wide  enough  for 
danger,  so  that  patients  are  allowed  to  open  them  without  risk. 
A  library  of  suitable  and  amusing  books,  objects  of  natural  his- 
tory, music,  handiworks,  are  all  at  the  disposal  of  the  inmates; 
and  though  some  must  be  under  restraint,  it  is  a  restraint  of  the 
kindest  and  gentlest  description.  We  afterwards  went  to  a 
bazaar  of  ladies'  work,  held  for  the  benefit  of  a  home  for  the  aged 
in  reduced  circumstances.  All  denominations  of  religionists  had 
united  their  endeavours ;  and  although  I  observe  much  variety 
of  opinion  in  religious  matters,  I  think  that  Christians  here  do 
lay  aside  their  diflferences.when  a  commor  work  is  to  be  accom- 
plished.    I  dined  and  epeut  the  evening  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

W . 

December  21. — Yesterday,  I  saw  two  of  the  prettiest  and 
best-appointed  houses  in  this  place ;  both  fitted  up  in  good  taste, 
but  without  the  extrente  extravagance  and  ostentation  I  r(  loarked 
in  some  of  the  residences  of  the  Northern  States.  Here,  tor  the 
first  time,  I  see  nothing  but  black  servants — slaves,  I  believe ; 
but  their  manner  and  countenances  express  contentment  and 
cheerfulness ;  and  certainly  the  relation  of  mistress  and  servant  in 
the  South  has  a  more  agreeable  aspect  than  that  of  the  sam'e  sta- 
tion in  the  Northern  States,  which  is  commonly  characterized  by 
complaints  of  annoyance  upon  one  side,  and  a  saucy  indifference 
upon  the  other.  The  dinner-party  at  Mrs.  W 's  was  agree- 
able, and  I  met  there  several  pretty  Southern  ladies  :  their  voices 
and  way  of  speaking  struck  me  as  more  refined  and  graceful  than 
those  of  the  other  States  I  have  visited.  Among  some  of  them, 
too,  I  find  more  just  views  of  England  and  English  society — at 
least,  among  those  of  Baltimore ;  further  on,  I  understand,  there 
is  universal  prejudice,  and  an  embittered  tone  of  feeling,  arising 
partly  from  family  recollections  of  the  severities  practised  by  the 
English  government  and  military,  in  the  struggle  for  indepen= 
deuce ;  and  partly  from  the  well-intentioned  but  ill-judged  inter* 


THE   CAPITOL   AND   MUSEUM. 


163 


ference  of  the  Dresent  English  generation  about  the  Slaverj 
question.  I  reached  Washington  this  afternoon — so  much  in  the 
dark  that  I  was  unable  to  judge  of  the  beauties  of  the  Potomac, 
the  shores  of  which  river  we  must  have  skirted  in  our  way. 

December  22. — I  dine  to-day  with  the  British  minister,  who 
has  been  so  obliging  as  to  show  me  the  Capitol  and  Museum, 
where  I  saw  many  interesting  but  uncatalogued  specimens  in  nat- 
ural history.  There  is  an  Alligator  Gar  from  Lake  Pontchar- 
train,  which,  as  far  as  it  was  possible  to  judge  from  distant  in- 
spection, is  of  a  different  kind  from  that  specimen  which  I  obtained 
from  Lake  Champlain,  although  certainly  of  the  same  family. 
An  extraordinary-looking  fish,  two  or  three  feet  long,  with  a  pla- 
typus-like snout  (which  seems  made  for  scooping  up  mud  or  sand, 
as  it  extends  half  a  foot  over  the  mouth),  was  in  the  same  case. 
There  are  sitting  mummies  from  Central  America  with  singu- 
larly short  forearms ;  and  an  ornithoryuchus  from  Australia,  the 
claws  of  which  have  the  property  of  inflicting  venomous  wounds. 
Fart  of  the  Capitol  is  a  handsome  building,  but  the  glaring  white 
with  which  the  stone  is  painted  mars  its  effect ;  and  heavy  ugly 
wings  are  in  process  of  erection.  I  shall  not  see  Congress  in  ses- 
sion until  after  Christmas.  From  a  verandah  out  of  the  library, 
I  gained  a  good  view  of  the  site  of  Washington  and  the  Potomac 
river.  The  ground  plan  of  wide  alleys  diverging  from  the  Cap- 
itol is  a  fine  one ;  if  ever  the  present  small,  mean-looking  brick 
houses  should  be  replaced  by  a  handsome  public  and  domestic 
architecture,  this  city  will  be  worthy  to  be  called  the  Capital  of 
the  Union.  But  at  present  the  population  is  less  than  that  of 
Detroit,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  town  is  not  half  as 
handsome. 

Saturday,  December  23. — I  was  introduced  to  several  gentle, 
men,  members  of  the  Legislative  Houses,  and  of  the  high  legal 
courts ;  and  I  find  society  here  most  agreeable.     Dr.  and  Mrs. 

B ,  White  Mountain  friends,  called  and  took  me  to  pay  some 

visits.  And  in  the  evening,  at  eight  o'clock,  I  was  politely  recei- 
ved by  the  President  and  Mrs.  Fiereo.  I  was  at  first  shown  into 
comfortable  and  handsomely  furnished  rooms,  alone;   but  she 


'1:1 


I  ■ 


164 


WAflHINGTOir. 


soon  joined  me,  and  after  a  while,  the  President  came  in.  He  is 
a  quiet-looking,  pale,  gentlemanly  man ;  but  both  he  and  Mrs. 

P had  a  manner  of  subdued  unostentatious  sadness,  so  that 

during  this  visit  I  thought  more  and  sympathized  more  with  the 
bereaved  parents,  than  with  them  as  the  President  and  Presi* 
dent's  wife  of  the  United  States  of  America.  In  about  half  an 
hour  I  took  leave,  and  returned  to  this  hotel  in  time  for  a  light 
tea. 

Si/nfJny^  Titcemher  24. — Rain  having  fallen  last  night,  and 
frost  having  followed,  the  pavement  of  the  streets  is  covered  by 
sheets  of  ice,  and  it  appears  quite  impossible  to  venture  out.  I 
heard  a  great  many  amusing  stories  to-day  of  Southern  origin. 
There  is  certainly  great  attachment  between  the  negroes  and  their 
masters  (speaking  generally),  in  spite  of  the  facts  detailed  in 
Uncle  Tom.  Ono  gentleman  told  me  that  he  has  a  distant  plan- 
tation, which  he  sometimes  visits  alone ;  at  dinner-time  he  finds 
a  table  loaded  with  all  kinds  of  delicacies,  presents  from  the  slaves. 
He  remonstrated  with  an  old  Darkey  who  waited,  upon  the  use- 
lessness  of  dressing  fowls,  turkey,  geese,  ducks,  ham,  &c.,  for  one 
person.  '  No  matter,  massa.  When  massa  comes,  must  have 
good  dinner  on  table,  whether  massa  eat  it  or  not.'  A  negro  had 
an  unfortunate  love  for  brandy,  and  though  in  other  respects  a 
good  '  boy,'  he  was  caught  stealing  his  favourite  drink.  At  sev- 
enty years  of  age,  his  master  did  not  wish  to  punish  him  severely. 
So  he  appealed  to  Blackey's  own  conscience.  *  Harry,  you  know 
you  deserve  correction ;  but  with  all  your  faults,  you  have  a  no- 
tion of  justice.  Now,  if  you  think  it  right,  you  shall  go  unpun- 
ished ;  if  wof ,  you  shall  condemn  yourself.'  *  Well,  massa,  me  ole 
man — me  take  ten  lashes,  and  me  hope  be  better.'  And  he  went 
out,  ordered  his  own  punishment,  and  submitted  to  it  without  a 
murmur ! 

A  Frenchman  and  his  wife,  settled  in  the  South,  a  few  miles 
from  a  town  where  the  husband  went  in  every  morning  for  his 
employment:  he  procured  a  horse,  and  hie  wife  made  him  an 
ornamented  bridle,  and  smartened  him  up,  and  he  was  to  ride 
backwards  and  forwards  to  avoid  fatigue ;  in  coming  home  one 


A   MOTLRT  AB8EHBLAGE. 


165 


day,  a  rattle-snake  lay  in  a  threatening  attituc^'^  in  the  path;  the 
horse  started,  and,  when  pressed  to  pass,  threat  his  master  actu< 
ally  upon  the  reptile :  he  jumped  up  and  ran  one  "vay,  the  rattle- 
snake making  off  the  other,  and  he  told  his  wife :  '  Never  saw  a 
snake  so  dom-soared  in  all  my  life ! '  On  Christmas-day  I  walked 
to  church  with  a  young  lady,  whose  family  reside  within  a  few 
miles  of  this  place ;  but  they  take  up  their  residence  in  this  house 
during  the  winter.  I  understand  that  the  habit  of  hotel  life  is 
every  year  becoming  niore  general  in  the  States :  this  is  partly 
encouraged  by  the  troubles  arising  from  s^irvants ;  the  older  ladies 
get  rid  of  house-keeping,  and  the  yung  ladies  are  indulged  with 
constant  society ;  but  to  Engli&h  ^astes  this  mode  of  existence 
would  be  unbearable— continued  noise,  bustle,  and  excitement, 
uo  repose  of  mind,  and  no  home  duties.  It  is  advantageous  to  a 
foreigner,  who  wishes  to  become  acquainted  with  the  people  of  the 
country ;  but  I  should  suppose  it  must  be  ruinous  to  the  manners 
and  the  domestic  character  of  the  higher  clags  of  young  women ; 
frivolity  and  indolence  must  be  encouraged,  for  any  regular  plan 
of  industrial  occupation  is  a  hopeless  attempt  in  such  places  as 
these.  I  would  rather  take  up  my  abode  in  any  farm-house  in 
England,  than  be  condemned  to  fritter  away  my  life  in  a  great 
American  hotel.  Still,  for  me,  as  a  stranger  and  a  traveller,  it  is 
uncommonly  pleasant;  I  find  acquaintances  from  Cuba,  Califor- 
nia, all  the  Southern  States ;  from  each  of  the  Northern — even 
some  from  Canada ;  naval  men,  who  have  visited  Japan ;  politic 
dans,  judges,  bishops,  botanists,  gjologists,  educationalists,  phil- 
anthropists, abolitionists,  slave-holders,  voyages  of  discovery-men, 
and  men  who  have  been  some  of  all  these  things  at  various  periods 
of  their  lives,  with  a  large  number  of  ladies^  r.Il  willing  to  converse, 
and  vying  in  kindness  and  hospitality  towards  me,  the  f  i  !y  for- 
eigner and  stranger  among  them.  All  this  makes  ire  sometimes 
fear  I  may  be  inclined  to  over-value  myself,  and  that  before  my 
return  to  England  I  may  be  puffed  up  by  conceit  and  vanity :  the 
best  hope  is,  that  I  hardly  have  time  to  become  inflated;  for  there 
is  also  much  here  to  make  one  forget  self.  The  Bishop  of  Penn- 
sylvania, brother  to  my  friend  the  Bishop  of  New  York,  arrived 


iBr 


.; 


166 


WA8HINGT01T. 


here  from  a  tour  in  Iiis  diocese  (which  has  the  extent  of  all  Eep 
land),  the  day  before  yesterday,  to  superintend  or  take  par<  m  a.^ 
Association  for  educational  purposes,  which  holds  it^  sessicua  ( n- 
conventions,  as  they  are  called  here)  at  tho  Sniithstaian  Institu- 
tion. Bishop  Potter  is  so  good  a^  to  allow  of  my  accimpanyiug 
him  there,  so  that  he  unites  instruction  and  at?  ?,4tion  to  a  stran- 
ger with  his  professional  duties :  it  la  impossible  not  to  feel  deeply 
the  agreeable  and  useful  influence  of  his  truly  Oiristiim  heart  and 
powei*';0  raind,  so  that  I.  cor  fsider  myself  most  fortunate  in  auefc 
an  HCCjUMiui'ance. 

Dscernh'ir  28.-1  Bpwt  nearly  j^ll  day  at  the  meeting  of  the 
Educational  Asaocxdti ok;  .'aach  interesting  information  was  eli- 
ci'ed,  particularly  frmi?  >'  :•.  Barward,  who  having  been  to  England 
for  the  purpoi<e  of  conipailng  our  institutions  with  those  of  the 
United  Stated,  showed  himself  well-informed  and  candid  in  his 
deductioDS.  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  there  are  still  600j000 
people  iu.  the  United  States,  unable  either  to  read  or  write ;  and 
that  this  ignorance  is  by  no  means  confined  to  the  emigrant  pop- 
is  lation.  I  accompanied  the  bishop  to  a  party  at  Mr.  Corcoran's, 
wlkoie  there  are  some  pretty  pictures,  one  of  Moreland's,  from 
which  I  remember  seeing  a  prini;  in  my  childhood.  The  educa- 
tional meeting  did  not  break  up  until  Friday,  the  29th,  after  pro- 
posing that  the  next  meeting  of  the  Asisociation  shall  be  held  at 
New  York,  the  end  of  August,  1855.  The  Bishop  of  Pennsyl- 
vania and  other  members  loffc  Washington  in  the  afternoon  of 
that  day.  Among  the  remarks  made  by  Professor  Henry  and 
others,  aa  to  the  results  of  early  discipline  and  self-control  upon 
the  character  of  after-life ;  it  was  observed  that  no  instance  of 
unhappy,  childish  old  age  could  be  brought  to  mind,  in  which  the 
cultivation  of  the  intellect  and  the  habits  of  varied  study,  alt.  ■  nr- 
ting  with  healthy  bodily  exercise,  were  continued  without  ■  ^r- 
midsion  after  sixty  years  of  age,  and  had  been  regularly  p  u  .i 
in  previous  life.  It  is  sup;«'  ?d  that  old  people  mum.  >.  "  ided 
to  the  opinions  and  custom  ;  their  youth ;  but  this  'x  ^hx.  mis- 
fortune of  those  only  who  consider  their  notions  fixod  i^  s'  their 
education  and  information  complete:  a  man  still  seeking  ini:^) c 


:M| 


DANCIKO. 


161 


tm  at  seventy  will  be  as  open  to  conviction  and  to  change  of 
opiniov*  as  he  was  at  seventeen :  it  is  the  '  ioo-old-to-learn  people 
who  t^iti '  iv'xto  dotage  and  depression.  Another  awfiil  fact  for  the 
(ligiiv)la»e  or  ihe  idle  youth  must  be  stated — that  even  when  the 
check  of  public  opinion  and  love  of  approbation  induce  self-con- 
trol and  moral  conduct  during  the  middle  age,  if  there  has  not 
b  2Q  la  d  in  early  life  a  foundation  of  principle  and  good  habits, 
ibo  consequences  of  early  profligacy  show  themselves  in  a  return 
to  vicious  acts,  as  mental  power  wanes  with  added  years,  and  the 
hoary  sinner  goes  to  his  grave  in  sin  and  misery — so  the  end  of 
that  man  is  worse  than  his  beginning.  It  may  be  well  for  the 
young  to  hear  this ;  for  it  was  enunciated  and  agreed  to  as  truth 
by  a  body  of  men  whose  knowledge  and  experience  can  hardly  be 
gainsaid.  This  evening  I  was  invited  by  Mrs.  Fremont,  in  the 
absence  of  her  husband,  to  see  a  series  of  daguerreotypes,  brought 
by  Colonel  Fremont  from  the  Hocky  Mountains :  though  many 
had  reference  merely  to  a  choice  of  country  for  railroads,  they 
are  on  the  whole  very  interesting ;  some  rocks  of  the  old  red 
sandstone  formation  stood  up  from  a  plain,  in  form  and  appear- 
ance like  gigantic  Egyptian  statues ;  these  were  in  the  Mormon 
district.  On  returning  to  Willard's,  I  found  dancing  going  on 
very  merrily  in  the  ladies'  room,  four  negroes — ^piano,  hautboy, 
violin,  and  violoncello — splaying  in  excellent  tune,  and  with  suffi- 
cient taste  and  time.  The  ladies  were  all  in  demi-toilette  ;  but  I 
do  not  see  so  generally  the  absitrd  flaunty  style  of  attire  so  re- 
vuarkablo  at  New  York. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


•■<n 


f, . 


LETTER  XV. 


THE  NEW    TEAR. 


WABBWaTOK,  January  1, 186& 

My  dear  Friends, 

No  former  year  of  my  life  has  began  so  strangely  as  this ! 
I  think  there  is  something  beautiful  in  one  feature  of  the  Ameri- 
can celebration  of  New  Year's  Day.  It  is  made  an  opportunity 
for  the  oblivion  of  neglects,  and  for  the  forgiveness  of  social  in- 
juries. On  this  day,  visits  of  kindness  and  congratulation  are  not 
confined  to  intimate  friends,  but  every  one  who  has  a  wish  to  he 
civil  to  his  neighbour  is  cordially  received  by  him  or  her.  Tiie 
ladies  commonly  stay  at  home  to  welcome  their  visitors,  while 
gentlemen  make  a  point  of  calling  upon  all  their  acquaintances, 
remaining  at  each  house  perhaps  not  more  than  five  minutes; 
but  still  the  call  is  accepted  as  one  of  cordiality  and  good-will.  In 
many  families,  refreshments  of  an  elegant  kind  are  prepared  and 
offered  by  the  lady  of  the  house ;  and  from  the  President  down- 
wards, the  population  in  all  the  towns  and  cities  are  intent  upon 
the  promotion  of  hospitality  and  kind  feeling.  Mr.  Crampton 
took  me  into  the  diplomatic  circle  at  the  White  House,  where, 
being  presented  to  most  of  the  gentlemen,  I  actually  shook  hands 
with  the  Russian  minister ;  and  at  this  moment  was  not  that  the 
greatest  homage  I  could  offer  to  the  peace-making  duty  of  the 
day  ?    We  next  visited  Secretary  Marcy's,  where  there  was  a  re- 


WASHINOTON  AND  ANDRE. 


169 


}N,  January  1,  issg^ 


ceptioD,  which,  like  that  of  the  President,  may  be  attended  by 
everybody.  As  we  were  early,  the  party  was  small ;  but  after- 
wards I  went  to  Dr.  B— — 's,  where  for  three  hours  I  was  present 
at  an  in-pouring  of  visitors,  and  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  many 
interesting  and  agreeable  people ;  among  them  a  charming  Lithua- 
nian  lady,  the  wife  of  a  Polish  gentleman  of  rank,  nearly  cou- 
nected  with  Prince  Czartoriski.  Dancing  and  other  amusements 
at  the  Hotel  in  the  evening. 

January  2. — Part  of  the  morning  was  devoted  to  the  School 
of  Design,  which  is  well  directed  by  Mr.  Whittaker,  who  was 
born  an  Englishman.  A  lady  afterwards  carried  me  to  the  State 
Paper  Office,  where  I  saw  interesting  documents;  among  them 
some  private  letters  characteristic  of  the  firm,  purpose-like  Wash- 
ington; and  a  most  touching  original  note,  containing  poor 
Andr6's  request  for  a  soldier's  death,  instead  of  that  of  the 
gibbet.  The  calm,  gentlemanly  writing,  without  tremor  and 
unmarked  by  haste — ^not  an  unnecessary  stroke  nor  a  useless 
word — takes  one  into  the  very  heart  of  the  man  who  wrote  it. 
Washington  was  deeply  moved,  but  gave  no  reply.  After  all  he 
was  right.  Though  poor  Andre  was  the  victim  of  that  wretch 
Arnold  (who  lived  only  to  die  a  hundred  times  over  under  the 
scorn  of  England  and  America),  still  he  was  taken  in  disguise ; 
and  since  Washington  felt  that  an  example  had  become  necessary, 
he  was  obliged  to  condemn  Andr<^  as  the  spy,  not  as  the  soldier. 
After  our  visit  to  the  State  department,  I  went  by  the  request  of 

Miss  G and  with  her,  to  see  a  young  lady,  in  the  hope  that,  by 

joining  my  persuasions  to  Miss  G— — 's,  we  might  induce  her  to 
assist  some  eflFort  for  training  women,  through  an  improved 
education,  for  teachers.  In  the  evening,  I  accompanied  another 
lady  to  hear  Mr.  Marsh's  lecture  on  Constantinople  and  the 
Bosphorus.  We  met  the  President  and  Mrs.  Pierce,  who  were 
on  the  platform  at  th<i  Smithsonian  Institute.  The  lecture  was 
rather  commonplace.  the  large  room  was  crowded  by  an 

intelHg«^nt  and  attentiv^e  audience.     It  is  in  form  and  arrange- 
ment one  of  the  best  lecture-rooms  I  ever  saw.    These  last  three 
8 


I'l. 


v 


:!»■ 


1  ''f  ■:■ 


r-v: 


;■'*' 


170 


WASHINGTON. 


days  the  weather  has  been  ''^':<  r  and  pleasant,  but  not  warmoi 
than  in  England. 

January  3. — Mr.  ingciaoli  took  me  to  see  Congress  in  ses- 
fion.  I  was  fortunate  in  the  moment  accidentally  chosen.  After 
some  time  spent  in  hearing  a  rather  confused  and  noisy  debate, 
there  were  two  good  speeches  in  their  several  lines,  one  from  a 
^oung  man,  the  California  member-  ?'.Ct«,  co^^'iise,  fluent,  and 
business-like ;  it  was  about  a  land  commission :  the  other,  from 

Mr.  K ,  of  South  Carolina — fervid,  energetic,  argumentative 

and  eloqueuj.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  terms  '  Whig' 
and  *  Democi  at '  have  different  meanings  here  to  those  which 
they  exp'-ess  in  England.  The  American  Democrat  designates 
enlightened,  consistent    principles}    t]'j  Whig,  narrow-minded, 

bigoted,  Republicanism.     Mr.  K 's  speech  lasted  one  hour, 

without  proving  tedious  or  uninstructive.  It  is  impossible  in  a 
few  words  to  do  justice  either  to  his  eloquence  or  his  reasoning;  but 
after  making  a  rapid  though  comprehensive  sketch  of  the  preseau 
state  of  parties  in  this  country,  he  affirmed,  that  in  fact  there 
never  ha»  been  in  the  world,  and  never  can  be,  more  than  two 
great  parties — consisting,  one  of  well-informed  liberal  men,  the 
other  of  ignorant  bigoted  men ;  that  new  names  and  a  new  organ- 
ization are  only  a  sign  that  under  o\A  names  one  of  the  old  par- 
ties has  become  effete.  So,  at  the  presen'  moment,  the  Whigs 
have  apparently  disband-  .1  but '  truth  tl  have  only  reformed, 
to  enlist  and  to  march  under  the  '  Know-nothing '  banners.  They 
have  indeed  assumed  a  most  suitable  and  characteristic  designa- 
tion, one  which  might  well  isave  been  selected  by  their  opponents. 
Socialists  in  practice,  they  desire  to  arm  labour  against  capital; 
Roman  Catholics  in  principle,  they  Touiu  advocate  bigotry  in 
lieu  of  tolerance;  arbitrary  in  go-"'':  aent  they  would  enact 
white  slavery  while  they  profess  to  d^  avay  ith  black  servitude. 
Falsifying  the  principles  and  tearing  up  the  foundations  of 
freec  oi,  *they  are,' said  the  orator,  'mutes  who  would  follow 
the  funeral  of  the  Republic'  Upon  the  whole,  I  was  agreeably 
surprised  with  the  good  speaking  and  general  appearance  of 
Congress ;  because  I  had  been  told  by  almost  every  one  emce  I 


:y-i--. 


AHNIVERSARY    SUPPER. 


17j 


)ut  not  warmci 


came  to  America,  that  I  should  find  a  sad  lack  of  talent  and 
political  honesty.  Respecting  the  latter  quality,  of  course  I  am 
not  capable  of  judging;  but  there  seems  no  lack  of  honest  faces^ 
and  I  find  less  assumption  in  manner  than  I  expected.  Mr. 
Ingersoll  took  me  into  the  Speaker's  private  room,  where  we 
found  Mr.  Boyd  alone,  having  been  disengaged  from  the  chair  by 
a  committee  of  the  '  whole '  (as  it  is  called  here),  which  enables 
the  Speaker  to  place  f>  substitute  in  his  chair.  In  this  room  I 
saw  the  place  where  President  Adams  expired ;  it  is  marked  by 

his  bust.     Upon  my  return  home,  finding  Mr.  C had  called 

twice,  I  went  to  see  him  at  his  house,  d  we  had  an  interesting 
conversation  upon  educational  subjects.  In  the  evening  I  dined 
with  our  minister,  and  sat  beween  Secretary  Marcy  and  Mr. 
Gushing,  the  Attorney-General.  There  was  a  large  party  of 
gentlemen,  and  three  ladies  besides  myself — Mrs.  Marcy's  sister 
(Mr^  French),  Miss  Marcy,  and  Mrs.  Campbell,  wife  of  the 
Soliciti  • -General,  ^^pou  returning  to  Willard's  Hotel,  I  found 
the  gau  y  and  ladi*  s'  room  crowded  by  visitors,  and  the  mulatto 
band,  as  us'  al,  in  requisition.  I  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Kietl,  the 
orator  of  ii  morning.  There  are  '  Know-nothings'  (even  femi- 
nine ones)  among  t'  e  residents  of  this  hotel.  I  can  easily  dis- 
cover them  by  the;      rude,  unintelligent  style  of  conversation. 

Thursday,  January  4. — There  was  a  great  assemblage  last 
night  in  the  room  underneath  mine — a  supper  of  gentlemen,  for 
the  celebration  of  some  anniversary ;  a  band  of  music,  songs, 
speeches,  and  viciferous  applause.  Sleep  being  out  of  the  ques- 
tion, I  rose  at  two  o'clock,  and  almost  read  through  Lord  Car- 
lisle's Diary  in  the  Turkish  Waters  before  daylight.  Of  course 
I  was  gratified  at  finding  our  cousin  of  the  Betrihution  so  highly 
spoken  of  in  it.     This  morning  I  ^vas  a  good  deal  occupied  in 

arranging  a  sitting  in  my  own  room,  that  Mrs.  S (the  only 

very  talented  American  artist  I  have  yet  met  with)  might  have 
the  opportunity  to  make  a  drawing  of  an  acquaintance  of  mine. 
In  the  library  of  the  Capitol  thjie  is  one  of  the  most  exquisite 
miniatures  bv  this  ladv  I  ever  saw.  It  almost  resembled  some 
of  Thorburn's ;  but  there  is  so  little  real  appreciation  of  art  in 


f- 


<fi[  i 


;;i  1-i 


iiiiiilil 


172 


WASHINGTON. 


Washington,  that  I  found  Mrs.  S hardly  able  to  procure  em- 
ployment, crowded  as  the  city  is  with  notabilities  from  all  parta 
of  the  Union.  Her  slight  sketches,  as  well  as  the  more  finished 
miniatures,  are  pretty,  and  her  drawing  correct ;  yet,  excepting  a 
little  instruction  from  some  English  person  when  very  young,  she 
appears  almost  wholly  self-taught.  Lieutenant  Maury  was  so 
obliging  as  to  call ;  he  gave  me  a  tempting  invitation  to  drink  tea 
with  his  family  at  the  Observatory,  the  first  evening  I  see  any 
chance  of  visible  stars.  In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  IngersoU 
took  me  again  to  the  Capitol.  There  had  been  an  early  adjourn- 
ment of  the  Senate,  and  though  Congress  was  sitting  (it  was  not 
engaged  in  business  which  interested  me),  a  large  majority  of 
members  were  occupied  at  their  desks  writing  letters.  This  habit 
deteriorates  much  from  the  dignity  and  statesmanlike  appearance 
of  the  House ;  and  I  remember  observing  the  same  thing,  and 
making  the  same  remark,  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  at  Paris, 
Quebec,  and  in  all  the  legislative  assemblies  in  which  the  mem- 
bers, instead  of  being  obliged  to  retire  to  the  lobbies  (as  in  our 
parliamentary  houses)  for  letter-writing  and  private  business,  are 
accommodated  with  chairs  and  tables  in  the  halls,  where  public 
affairs  only  should  be  transacted.  Here  members  of  Congress 
remain  half  their  time,  unconscious  of  what  is  going  forward,  ab- 
sorbed in  their  individual  interests,  when  they  ought  to  be  wholly 
given  to  those  of  the  public — so  that  they  look  more  like  an  as- 
semblage of  clerks  than  of  statesmen.  To-day  I  dined  with  the 
President,  by  the  formal  invitation  of  a  week.  The  party  con- 
sisted of  about  thirty-two.  I  sat  between  Mr.  Broadhead  and 
Mr,  Ashley,  two  members  of  the  Senate,  who  have  passed  some 
time  in  England.  There  were  a  good  many  ladies,  but  more  gen- 
tlemen. The  President  and  Mrs.  Pierce  sat  opposite  on  each 
side  the  table;  and  I  was  near  the  former.  The  dinner  was 
handsome,  and  well  arranged  in  French  fashion ;  flowers  and  fruit 
only  on  the  table,  and  one  dish  at  a  time  handed  round.  In  the  re- 
ception-room there  were  some  splendid  white  camellias,  covered  by 
flowers  which  I  think  are  larger  here  than  any  with  us ;  gi  at  use  is 
made  of  the  fir-like  Lycopodium  and  the  elegant  Steevia,  in  the 


SMITHSONIAN    INSTITUTE. 


in 


composition  of  ornamental  bouquets,  some  of  which  were  placed  at 
the  disposal  of  the  ladies.  At  half-past  nine  the  party  broke  up, 
having  met  at  six  o'clock.  Upon  returning  to  the  hotel,  I  spent 
the  remainder  of  the  evening  in  pleasant  conversation — princi- 
pally with  Miss  Cass ;  she  and  her  father,  General  Cass,  usually 
reside  in  this  house  during  the  winter.  The  society  in  the  ladies' 
room  is  diversified,  and  by  no  means  stiff.  There  are  whist-tables, 
and  occasionally  dancing  and  music.  I  never  saw  any  card-play- 
ing for  money  in  the  United  States. 

Saturday,  January  6. — Mrs.  Fremont  called  upon  me  yester- 
day morning ;  and  from  her  brother-in-law  Mr.  Jones,  I  received 
a  large  long-shaped  acorn,  eatable  like  the  Spanish  chestnut.  It 
was  brought  from  a  mountainous  region  in  California.  This  and 
one  black  as  ebony  from  the  same  country,  I  hope  to  send  soon  by 
a  private  hand  to  be  planted  in  England.  I  have  a  pretty  little 
sleeping  tortoise  also,  the  Picta ;  when  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray  arrive, 
I  shall  ask  them  to  carry  it  back  to  Boston  to  await  my 
return  there.  I  hope  to  have  this,,  and  a  box  tortoise  from 
Albany,  and  a  spotted  one  from  Khode  Island,  as  live  specimens 
of  the  tortoise  families.  I  spent  the  chief  part  of  the  5th  of 
January  in  returning  visits. 

This  morning,  the  6th,  I  walked  to  the  Smithsonian  Institute, 
and  got  much  information  about  objects  of  natural  history  from 
Professor  Baird.  Another  foggy,  damp  day,  quite  as  thick  as  any 
in  London,  barring  the  smoke.  I  have  been  reading  two  pam- 
phlets giving  opposite  views  upon  the  subject  of  the  Smithsonian 
Institution.  A  controversy  is  going  on  here  respecting  the  distri- 
bution of  the  fund  left  by  our  countryman  to  found  an  establish- 
ment at  Washington  *  For  the  Increase  and  Diffusion  of  Knowledge 
among  Men.'  It  would  be  difficult  to  credit  the  fact,  had  I  not 
the  best  authority  for  it,  that  the  whole  annual  income,  being 
thirty  thousand  dollars,  a  vote  of  Congress  decided  (appointing 
Regents  to  carry  its  decisions  into  effect),  that '  a  suitable  building 
of  sufficient  size,  with  rooms  and  halls  for  reception  and  arrange- 
ment, upon  a  liberal  scale,  of  objects  of  natural  history,  geological, 
mineralogical,  and  botanical,  properly  classed  and  arranged,  with 


174 


WASHmOTON. 


'I 


a  chemical  laboratory,  lecture-rooms,  &o.,  shuU  be  organized  ;*  and 
then  assigned  a  sum  not  exceeding  twenty-five  thousand  dollars 
for  a  library.    If  this  were  to  be  understood  as  Cij^propriating  five 
parts  of  the  whole  income  to  buying  and  collecting  books,  the 
absurdity  of  the  first  provisions  would  be  evident ;  so  the  mana- 
gers (as  it  appears  to  me  sensibly  enough)  took  advantage  of  the 
bop-hole  aflforded  by  the  words  '  not  exceeding,' and  have  gone 
on,  to  the  best  of  their  ability,   endeavouring  to  realize  the 
apparent  intentions  of  the  founder  and  of  Congress ;  and,  as  far 
as  I  can  judge,  in  a  reasonable  and  intelligent  manner.     Yet  a 
party  of  men  of  some  talent  and  ability  are  bent  upon  maiutaining 
that  a  library,  and  a  library  only,  was  to  be  established.     If  Mr. 
Smithson  had  contemplated  this  narrow  view,  he  could  easily 
have  stated  it.     I  should  imagine  it  was  his  intention,  by  *  A 
Central  Institution  for  the  Difiusiou  of  Knowledge  among  Men,' 
to  counteract  the  mercantile  and  Mammonite  spirit  which  possesses 
the  majority,  and  open  the  book  of  Nature  to  their  comprehension : 
while  by  promoting  healthier  ideas  upon  education,  thQ  crude  and 
absurd  opini  js  too  generally  advanced  and  acted  upon,  will  be 
amended  and  counteracted,  and  an  improved  and  more  practical 
female  training  will  be  encouraged.     It  will  no  longer  be  gravely 
enunciated  at  an  educational  convention — '  That  the  stimulus 
which  the  human  heart  requires  is  wanting  for  women  in  the 
present  age,  and  that  society  gives  them  nothing  to  aim  at ; '  but 
if  so,  give  them  reasonable  aims.     Let  them  aim  at  duty,  not 
notoriety.     Let  them  keep  within  their  appropriate  sphere,  culti- 
vaiing  suflBicient  moral  courage  to  act  within  that  spher,;  for  the 
benefit  of  their  fellow-creatures,  and  particularly  for  the  advantage 
of  their  sex ;  disciplining  and  training  their  own  minds  to  be  the 
educated  companions,  not  the  rivals,  of  men.     Let  them  be  the 
heart-consolers,  the  binders-up  of  broken  spirits,  the  *  sisters  of 
the  sisterless,'  the  presiding  geniuses  of  the  social  circle.     Is 
that  not  work  enough  for  them  to  do  ?    In  this  country,  I  hear 
that  *  though  it  has  no  queen,  all  the  women  are  queens.^    I 
should  rather  call  them  playthings — dolls ;  things  treated  as  if 
they  were  unfit  or  unwilling  to  help  thamselves  or  others :      i 


CUBA  AND   HER    WRONGS. 


17£ 


while  we  in  England  have  nearly  cast  aside  arts  of  the  toilet 
worthy  only  of  dolls,  I  see  here  false  brows,  false  bloom,  false 
hair,  false  everything ! — not  always,  but  too  frequently.  Dress 
m  America,  as  an  almost  general  rule,  is  full  of  extravagance 
and  artificiality  ^  and  while  women  show  such  a  want  of  reliance 
upon  their  native  powers  of  pleasing,  thei/  inCuence  in  society 
will  be  more  nominal  than  real. 

Monday,  January  8. — This  day  I  made  my  first  appearance 
at  a  morning  reception.  Ladies  here  issue  cards  or  notes,  stating 
they  are  at  home  on  particular  days,  when  any  acquaintances  may 
visit  them.  This  is  a  pleasant  and  rational  mode  of  making  calls, 
and  appears  to  me  worthy  of  adoption  elsewhere.  Mr.  Ingersoll 
was  so  obliging  as  to  take  me  to  listen  to  arguments  in  the  Su- 
preme Legal  Court,  the  only  tribunal  which  is  competent  to  settle 
questions  which  may  arise  between  States.  A  counsel  spoke  so 
clearly  and  concisely  upon  a  particular  point  of  law,  that  he 
brought  it  within  my  comprehension ;  the  case  was,  that  of  the 
boundary  Jine  to  be  drawn  between  Georgia  and  Florida.  My 
friends  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray  have  arrived  from  Cambridge.  I  dined 
with  them  at  Professor  Henry's,  and  went  to  the  Smithsonian  In- 
stitute to  hear  the  first  of  nine  lectures  on  botany  by  Dr.  Gray. 
Although  the  morning  was  fine  and  clear,  rain  came  on  at  night ; 
and  since  Lieutenant  Maury's  invitation  to  the  Observatory,  the 
weather  has  afforded  no  opportunity  for  its  acceptance. 

Tuesday,  January  9. — Cloudy  and  damp.     I  went  with  an 

agreeable  Cuban  gentleman,  Mr. ,  to  a  morning  reception 

at  Mrs.  P 's,  and  then  he  took  me  to  see  some  pictures  at  the 

Capitol,  which  are  to  be  disposed  of  by  raffle.  One,  St.  Thomas 
giving  Charity  (by  a  pupil  of  Murillo's,  touched  by  the  master), 
is  an  interesting  picture ;  the  others  I  did  not  admire.  The  ab- 
sence of  any  positive  news  from  England  is  very  trying,  and  the 
details  brought  by  the  former  mail  most  afflicting ;  still,  however 
saddening,  no  English  person  can  despair  of  the  ultimate  success 
of  heroism  and  civilization  against  cruelty  and  barbarism. 

I  have  become  well  acquainted  with  some  pleasant  intelligent 
Cuban  families  here,  and  ^eir  aooounts  make  me  feel  it  impossible 


176 


washhtgion. 


'1 


liiiifli 


m 


not  to  iirish  that  their  fine  island  should  be  more  free,  misgorern 
ed  and  pillaged  as  it  is  by  its  present  masters ;  and  not  being 
very  far  from  the  American  shores,  I  wish  America  could  pur- 
chase it :  the  case  would  be  analogous  to  that  policy  of  Mr.  Pitt, 
by  which  the  Crown  of  England  took  possession  of  the  little  king 
dom  of  Man ;  and  with  respect  to  which  our  family  had  only  the 
choice  of  accepting  a  certain  sum,  or  of  having  it  seized  by  the 
law  of  the  strongest.  The  mines  alone  in  the  last  mentioned 
island  now  produce  more  than  the  interest  of  the  money. 

Wednesday,  January  10. — Last  night  I  attended  an  evening 
party,  which  included  all  the  notabilities  of  Washington.  It  was 
much  like  a  crowded  assembly  in  London,  except  that  I  thought 
there  was  more  amusement ;  because  the  Washington  party  con- 
sisted of  a  re-union  of  people  who,  though  under  the  same  govern- 
ment, reside  thousands  of  miles  apart.  There  I  received  invita- 
tions from  the  South  and  from  the  North,  the  East  and  the  West, 
and  fully  mean  to  avail  myself  of  some  of  them.  I  was  given  a 
very  hospitable  one,  to  visit  a  member  of  Congress  who  resides 
upon  the  Mississippi,  not  an  impracticable  distance  from  the  falls 
of  St.  Anthony.  Some  of  the  invitations  are  to  Mexico^  Texas, 
and  California ;  not  forgetting  the  Salt  Lake,  in  consequence  of 
an  introduction  to  the  Mormon  delegate — a  gentlemanly,  respec- 
table-looking old  man  with  a  bald  head.  I  did  not  inquire  if  he 
has  twelve  wives ;  but  an  amusing  account  has  been  given  me  with 
regard  to  the  domestic  arrangements  of  that  strange  people.  It 
seems  that  when  the  first  wife  wants  help  in  the  household,  she 
petitions  her  husband  to  take  another  spouse — a  good  cook  or  a 
dairywoman  for  instance,  or  a  sempstress — so  one  wife  is  house- 
keeper, another  has  the  cooking  department,  a  third  manages  the 
nursery,  and  so  forth ;  and  as  there  is  no  ^uiall  difficulty  in  getting 
good  servants  in  the  United  States,  this  matrimonial  plan  ensures 
a  more  permanent  and  better  ordered  household  than  could  bo  at< 
tained  withouc  it.  I  am  informed  that  the  domestic  troubles  of  t 
wife  in  the  United  States  are  such  that,  unless  she  resides  in  the 
slave  countries,  she  thinks  it  far  more  convenient  to  be  first  wife, 
with  half-a-dozen  subordinate  ones,  tban  to  be  sole  darling  with 


A  POSTULATE. 


177 


the  disadvantages  of  saucy  servants  and  the  discomforts  of  bad 
dinners  ,*  so  that,  in  fact,  Bepublicanism,  and  an  unnatural  attempt 
at  equality,  has  caused  a  return  of  the  terrible  evils  of  polygamy. 
What  a  curious  result.  I  hope  this  strange  custom  will  not  spread 
over  the  Union ! 

January  11. — ^I  spent  three  hours  in  Congress  yesterday,  ho- 
ping to  hear  Mr.  C speak  about  the  'Know-nothings;'  the 

House  was  taken  up  by  a  hot  discussion  upon  the  question  of  for- 
eigners receiving  immediate  grants  of  land,  with  an  understanding 
that  the  franchise  will  become  theirs  at  the  termination  of  five 
years,  which  is  the  present  law.  This  of  course  bore  upon  the 
'  Know-no  thing '  ground,  and  it  is  sad  to  see  how  deeply  a  secret 
society,  banded  together  upon  exclusive,  illiberal,  and  arbitrary 
principles,  has  taken  root  in  the  free  soil  of  America.  In  conver- 
sation, it  i"  easy  to  judge  whether  individuals  are  in  their  hearts 
favourable  to  such  views;  and  every  day  makes  me  think  the 
ramifications  of  the  conspiracy  have  extended  to  a  depth  and  a 
distance  about  which  I  was  for  a  time  incredulous.  There  is 
much  x-eason  to  fear  this  irrational  party  may  have  power  enough 
to  carry  the  prcbidcntial  chair  :  if  so,  I  really  think  the  *  mutes ' 
may  get  their  black  trappings  prepared  to-morrow  for  the  funeral 
of  the  Republic — a  catastrophe  prophesied  by  the  member  of 
6outh  Carolina;  and  I  fear  those  obsequies  mav  not  only  be  wept 
in  sackt 'Oth  and  ashes,  but  that  they  may  be  followed  by  a  civil 
war.  There  seems  a  dearth  of  strong  nipn  in  the  Union — men 
capable  of  taking  the  lead,  and  sufficiently  patriotic  to  sacrifice 
their  own  present  personal  interest  to  the  public  weal.  I  observe 
a  sad  spirit  of  corruption  and  of  self-seeking  among  the  younger 
men ;  and  I  also  see  that  fear  and  doubt  are  shaking  the  spirits 
of  the  elder  and  wiser  people.  No  onti  seems  even  to  guess  what 
will  come  out  of  the  fermenting  process  which  the  commonest  ob- 
server must  see  at  work.  The  lees  have  risen  to  the  surface; 
whether  they  will  sink  again  to  the  bottom  of  the  political  chaldron 
without  poisoning  the  life-blood  of  this  world-wide  community,  is 
the  question  seldom  uttered,  but  deeply  seated  in  the  minds  of 

hether  this  msnt&l  oon* 


i 


huueat  and  thoughtful  perscuo. 


T   ^<Ml1,f  ._. 

3m    ^AVMIR/W    nJ 


8» 


'\t     ' 


178 


WASHINOTOV. 


fliet  here  is  not  more  alarming  than  the  external  and  physical 
war  the  Allies  have  to  wage  against  the  barbarism  of  the  North, 
inasmuch  as  open  enmity  is  better  than  secret  contention ;  the 
known  foe  can  be  met  and  conquered,  but  a  concealed  antagonist 
effects  his  mischief  upon  unconscious  victims. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M 


1  :!i^ 


LETTER  XVI. 


WABHnroToir. 
Janvary  12,  18S6. 


1 


11 


My  dear  Friends, — 

I  weiit  yesterday,  with  Mrs.  Seymour  and  Mrs.  Cristobel 
de  Madan,  to  hear  the  (almost  single)  Boman  Catholic  member, 
Mr.  Chandler,  ^;j>eak  in  Congress,  for  the  purpose  of  repudiating 
and  denying  the  accusation  brought  against  his  co-i  cligionists  by 
Mr.  Banks  of  Massachusetts  (one  of  the  advocates  of  the  *  Know- 
nothing  conspiracy),  which  asserted  that  they,  the  Boman  Catho- 
lics, acknowledge  a  temporal  jurisdiction  in  the  Papacy.  The 
House  was  at  first  occupied  by  a  motion,  made  by  some  member 
from  the  South,  for  increasing  the  allowance  to  foreign  ministers. 
He  said,  the  salaries  given  are  so  meagre,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
induce  men  of  talent  and  experience  to  undertake  missions,  and 
therefore  the  aflFairs  of  the  States  (in  Europe)  are  embroiled  and 
mismanaged  by-a  set  of  inferior  diplomatists.  I  am  not  enough  ac- 
quainted with  the  pulse  of  the  American  Congress  to  judge  how  this 
proposition  was  received ;  but  the  intense  and  respectful  attention 
afforded  to  Mr.  Chandler,  I  thought  a  good  sign  of  generous  and 
tolerant  feeling ;  and  this  makes  me  hope  that  there  is  st'^l  free- 
dom and  impartiality  enough  in  the  Union  to  counteract  the 
narrow  and  inconsistent  opinions  of  Bepublican  bigotry.  Mr. 
Chandler's  address  was  good,  both  in  manner  and  ma.ler:  it  was 
well  worded,  calm,  logical  and  frank.    He  affirmed  most  solemnly 


']i: 


■.. 


180 


BXTXNOTION    OF   THE   TRIBES. 


that  SO  far  from  believing  any  right  could  bo  assumed  by  the 
Bishops  of  Bome  touching  upon  political  allegiance,  he  and  nil 
other  good  Catholics  consider  the  spiritual  rule,  which  they  wil- 
lingly  admit,  as  quite  distinct  from  the  temporal  i  although  his- 
tory  shows  that  temporal  rule  hos  been  exercised  by  Roman 
pontiffs,  it  was  not  derived  from  the  church  itself,  but  from 
the  Catholic  prhices  of  Europe,  who  chose  to  delegate  undue 
po^<'i*  to  tlio  Popes  of  those  times.  '  And  if,'  said  Mr.  Chandler, 
'  the  Bishops  of  Rome  should  now,  or  at  any  future  time,  invade 
the  territory  of  this  Republic,  or  of  any  other  Protestant  Hovercign- 
ty,  Koman  Catholics  would  consider  themselves  bound  by  every 
r  iuciple,  divine  or  human,  to  oppose  and  repel  such  an  aasump 
;  jn  of  temporal  power.'  The  (lovernor,  Mrs.  Seymour,  and  I, 
diT»od  pother  at  the  house  of  Governor  Hamilton  Fish,  Mr. 
Seymour's  predecessor  in  the  Government  of  New  York  State. 
T  had  a  great  deal  of  conversation  with  him,  and  with  another  old 
gentleman,  upon  the  present  state  and  future  prospects  of  free 
claves.  They  were  both  of  opinion  that  some  inherent  difference 
of  race  is  the  cause  that  the  black  people  die  out  and  become  ex- 
tinct in  one  or  two  generations,  after  the  attainment  of  freedom 
and  of  amalgamation  with  whites.  This  seems  to  bo  a  universal 
law.  Mr.  Fish  told  me  that,  in  his  experience,  it  has  worked  so 
rapidly,  that  his  family  having  about  fifty  years  ago  freed  their 
negroes,  though  at  the  same  time  allowing  them  a  claim  for  aid 
and  future  protection — letting  them  Imve  the  cottages  and  the 
ground  to  which  they  had  been  accustomed — still,  under  these 
advantageous  circumstances,  they  had  gradually  dwindled  away; 
and  though  Governor  Fish  considers  the  remnant  almost  as  be- 
longing to  his  own  family,  and  they  apply  to  him  for  advice  and 
help  upon  all  occasions,  yet  not  above  five  or  six  individuals  are 
e  :isting,  and  no  one  of  them  younger  than  sixty.  I  accompanied 
some  friends  to  the  evening  reception  of  Mrs.  Marcy,  which  was 
well  attended,  although  many  other  houses  were  also  open  for 
parties. 

Friday^  Vlth. — A  fine  clear  day.     Mrs.  Hamilton  Fish  took 
Mrs.  Seymour  and  me  a  drive  to  the  heights  of  Georgetown ;  and 


PRESIDENTIAL    EVENINO. 


181 


wc  alHO  called  on  Mfh.  Maury  at  the  ObHorvatory.  It  is  in  a 
buautifiil  situation,  oominanding  the  city  of  Washington,  and  also 
long  rcoohos  of  the  Potomac  each  way.  Lieutenant  Maury  took 
us  up  to  tho  roof  of  the  building,  and  wo  are  to  have  the  ploasurc 
of  a  visit  to  his  observatory  next  week,  if  tho  stars  will  bo  favour- 
able. I  drank  tea  out  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour,  and  after- 
wards uccompaniod  their  party  to  tho  Presidential  evening  \evc« 
(as  tho  word  is  here  pronounced),  to  which  all  classes  decently 
attired  are  admitted.  We  found  two  rooms  crowded,  but  the 
company  perfectly  well  conducted  and  orderly.  In  gener?il  aspect, 
I  was  reminded  of  an  entertainment  given  by  a  London  City  Lord 
Mayor  in  tho  Guildhall.  Wo  returned  to  the  hotel  by  eleven 
o'clock. 

January  13. — I  received  a  file  of  'Times  newspapers  to  the 
23d  of  last  month,  and  sat  up  nearly  all  night  to  read  them.  Sad 
and  heart-breaking  details ;  and  in  the  paper  of  latest  date,  an 
article  levelled  against  tho  Ministry  and  all  tho  employes  in  tho 
East,  so  bitter  and  vituperative  in  style,  and  so  sweeping  in  accu- 
hition,  that  it  tells  more  against  the  writers  than  in  condemnation 
of  those  written  against.  In  this  house  I  have  made  tho  acquaint- 
ance of  three  distinguished  Generals  of  the  Republic — Scott, 
Cass,  and  Houston — all  massive-looking,  soldier-like  men.  After 
a  fine  morning  tho  afternoon  proved  wet,  so  that  I  could  no* 
sketch  or  go  to  tho  Observatory  ;  but  Mrs.  Fish  was  so  kind  as  to 
take  me  out  to  pay  visits.  After  dinner,  there  was  an  evening 
assembly  and  dancing  for  the  young  people.  I  was  introduced  to 
an  interesting  family,  natives  of  New  Orleans.  They  spoke  Eng- 
lisli,  but  with  some  accent,  their  own  tongue  being  French ;  but  I 
much  prefer  our  language  a  little  broken  to  the  broad  and  often 
nasal  pronunciation  of  New  England  and  New  York.  The 
Southern  people  have  pleasing  voices,  and  are  much  less  provin- 
cial in  their  speech  than  those  of  the  Northern  States. 

Sunday^  January  14. — A  blind  minister  pneached  yesterday 
at  the  CongrcciS  chapel.  I  should  have  heard  hinc,  but  the  service 
was  earlier  than  I  expected,  so  when  I  reached  Professor  Henry's 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray  were  gone.     A  cold  clear  day,  but  no  signs  of 


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188 


OFFERS  OF    MARRIAOS. 


ioo.  Last  night  I  naw  a  very  intoroHting  Bot  of  drawings  of  Cali- 
fornia and  till)  llocky  Mountainn,  bolonging  to  agontlomait  who  has 
boon  niuoh  in  tho  Fur  WoHt.  llooonfirnuul  my  deductions  about 
tho  Mornionitu  domustiu  polity,  having  froquontly  oouvorscd  with 
tho  women  of  that  i*ttato.  Thu  hidicN  aro  not  shut  up  in  idluncsiii 
liku  tlioso  of  Eaatorn  harems,  but  live  happily  together,  bocauso 
they  aro  too  busy  to  quarrel.  One  woman  told  him — '  Wo  agree 
well:  Biater  Dolly  has  tho  cows;  sister  Jenny,  tho  ohildrou; 
sister  Betty,  tho  kiteljen ;  and  so  on — all  have  plenty  to  do  :  and 
our  husband  is  bound  by  law  to  support  and  tako  equal  oaro  of 
us ;  and  then  wo  are  so  Hell-bent  on  Heaven  /  '  Is  it  not  evident, 
slavery  or  polygamy  is  the  product  of  an  unnatural  attempt  after 
equality?    I  shall  certainly  return  to  England  more  strongly 

imbued  with  attachment  to  our  orderly  institutions.     11 has 

hud  olVora  of  marriage  in  America ;  but  she  says,  '  No,  I  will 
never  marry  hero — not  even  if  I  could  have  tho  very  President 
himself.  Why,  in  England  I  may  have  my  own  station,  and  I'm 
content ;  but  in  America  I  should  never  know  what  I  was.'  I  find 
many  charming  people,  a  groat  deal  that  is  interesting,  and  much 
that  iv«i  instructive,  in  tho  United  States ;  but  it  appears  to  mo 
that  only  the  fear  of  starvation  would  induce  an  English  man  or 
woman  to  fix  themselvea  for  life  in  America.  '  In  whatever  state 
of  life  you  a4*e,  therewith  to  bo  content,'  is  a  lesson  which  can 
hardly  bo  loaruod  this  jsidc  tho  Atlantic. 

Januat'y  10. — I  walked  up  early  yesterday  to  call  upon  Dr. 

and  Mrs.  B ;  ho  and  Mr.  W brought  mo  back,  and  Mrs. 

Fish  wa.s  again  so  kind  as  to  come  and  convoy  mo  to  sketch  on 
tho  Georgetown  heights.  And  then  she  waited  in  the  carriage 
while  I  paid  a  visit  to  tho  Britisli  Minister,  who  is  confined  to  his 
house  owing  to  the  consequences  of  an  accident.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Seymour  and  I  had  a  pleasant  dinner  at  ]Mr.  and  Mrs.  Taloe's, 
where  we  mot  General  Scott,  and  tho  Mexican  and  French  Minis- 
ter, aTid  aifacJu\  Judge  Drew,  and  other  acquaintances.  At  this 
house  is  one  of  the  prettiest  Carlo  Dolces  I  ever  saw.  It  once 
belonged  to  the  Duchess  do  Berri.  On  our  return,  Mr.  Blake, 
the  geologist,  showed  us  beautifully  crystailizod  and  other  epeci- 


OHAftAOTERISTlOB   OF   THE  SOUTH. 


188 


mens  of  Oalifornian  gold,  and  gavo  me  some  dust  of  Cubau  iron 
pyritoH  as  brilliant  as  diamonds. 

January  17. — Directly  after  breaklast  yesterday,  I  walked  up 
to  tiie  Observatory,  and  spent  two  hours  sketching  from  its  roof. 
The  views  are  fine  every  way,  particularly  up  the  Potomac  towards 
that  largo  aqueduct  which  carries  a  canal  across  to  Georgetown. 
I  saw  Lieutenant  Maury,  and  agreed  with  him  that,  as  my  travels 
must  be  pursued  on  the  18th  as  far  as  Richmond,  Wednesday  even- 
ing (stars  or  no  stars)  we  must  spend  at  the  Observatory.    I  came 
hooio  in  time  to  dress  for  a  wedding,  when  I  found  a  pretty  bride  and 
a  cheerful  ])arty ;  but  according  to  custom  in  the  reception-rooms  of 
this  country,  they  were  so  darkened  that  I  should  rather  have  sup- 
posed the  assembly  gathered  together  for  a  funeral  than  a  wedding. 
I  saw  a  great  deal  of  beauty,  although  of  one  particular  type. 
Proceeding  towards  the  South,  I  find  the  manners  soften  as  well 
as  the  voice,  more  frankness  and  cheerfulness :  the  rather  stiff 
formality  of  the  Northern  States  is  replaced  by  ease,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  young  people  are  merry  without  being  boisterous, 
aud  no  one  objects  to  those  games  and  amusements  which  the 
spirit  of  the  puritanical  times  has  handed  down  as  crimes  to  be 
cast  aside  by  their  New  England  descendants.     So  oftentimes 
those  good  people  are  bored  for  want  of  innocent  r^'ixation,  and 
tlio  elderly  prefer  staying  by  their  own  firesides  to  falling  asleep 
in  public  for  want  of  occupation.     There  is  certainly  an  odd  mix- 
ture of  the  '  go-ahead '  and  the  indolent  among  our  American 
cousins,  which  is  exemplified  iu  the  saying,  that  such  a  man  '■  is 
running  a  sleepy  race,'  which  means  that  his  adheients  are  push- 
ing him  forward  for  election  to  some  office,  while  the  candidate 
himself  remains  in  a  state  of  somnolent  indifference  to  the  result. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour  took  me  to  a  place  which  has  been  called 
Caiametta,  from  its  beautiful  and  sunny  view  of  the  Potomac,  &c. 
Wo  found  it  a  pleasant,  comfortable  house,  with  bright-coloured 
peacocks  walking  about  in  the  wood  surrounding  it.     I  dined  at 
the  Secretary  of  State's,  with  a  large  number  of  diplomatic 
gentlemen,  and  only  four  ladies  besides  myself.     The  French  Min- 
ister sat  by  Mrs.  Maroy,  and  I  had  Mr.  Mar  .    rn  one  side  and 


184 


BlSXJAmiM    FRANKLlir. 


S 


■'■  \ 


:   " 


the  Spanish  M'.iistor  on  tho  other.     The  dinner  oould  Ti'  •  U 
otherwise  tl- ;.  agreeable.     The  Seerctary  is  a  r<Muarkably  frank, 
agreeable  old  man,  and  I  was  not  afraid  to  joke  him  a  little  about 
hia  republican  aversion  to  court  dresses.     I  found  out  tho  whole 
secret  afterwards.     In  his  drawing-room  there  is  an  interesting 
picture,  painted  in  the  time  of  Louis  XVI.,  of  the  King  and  Queen 
sitting  in  their  circle,  while  some  gay  ladies  of  the  Caurt  crown 
Benjamin  Franklin  with  a  wreath  of  laurel,     Franklin  is  uncon- 
taminated  by  any  attire  more  gay  than  hit<  Quakor>like  looking 
habiliments  (though  it  seems  he  was  occasionally  seduced  into  a 
court  dress,  for  a  velvet  one  belonging  to  him  is  still  preser-    1), 
and  I  gttess  the  ladies  around  him  wero  not  without  a  little  sly 
triumph  of  their  own  on  the  occasion  which  gave  rise  to  the  pic- 
ture ;  but  it  is  evident  to  me  that  scene  was  not  one  of  a  public 
reception,  for  no  gentleman  is  present  excepting  the  King.    Secre- 
tary Marey  was  (I  think)  sentimentally  led  astray  in  his  crusade 
against  European  finrrv  by  this  picture.     I  don't  tho  least  bclicvo 
(an  accusation  I  hnvo  h»  ard  here)  that  his  motive  was  to  curry 
favour  with  the  A.i  ,:^ri('uii  public,  who  may  imagine  an  ugly  coat 
and  republicanism  s^noTiymous  terms.     He  is  a  downright  honest 
man,  if  ever  I  saw  one ;  and  with  all  his  talents  and  knowledge  of 
the  American  world,  upon  the  subject  of  European  dress,  he  was 
much  more  likely  to  err  from  simplicity  than  design.     My  neigh- 
bour on  the  other  side  could  only  express  himself  in  French  and 
Spanish,  and  as  the  Secretary  confines  himself  to  plain  English  as 
well  as  plain  coats,  the  Spanish  Minister  is  frequently  obliged  to 
have  recourse  to  an  interpreter,  which,  in  a  delicate  diplomatic 
conference,  he  thinks  is  inconvenient. 

I  was  introduced  to  the  Dutch  Minister,  who  speaks  English 
like  a  native.  The  Prussian  looked  quiet  and  neutral;  the 
French,  anxious  and  incredulous.  Mr.  Crampton  was  prevented 
by  his  accident  from  joining  the  party,  a  circumstance  generally 
regretted,  for  no  one  is  more  popular  in  the  diplomatic  circle. 
None  of  the  second  grade  were  present — only  Ministers  and  their 
attaches.  Mr.  Marey  told  me  he  could  not  receive  the  whole 
corps  together,  and  therefore  he  takes  the  first  rank  with  their 


RIOHMOin). 


185 


isant. 

Jo 


belongings  at  ono  dinner,  and  others  separate.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Seymour,  having  uinod  elHcwhcro,  camo  to  take  me  homt ,  and 
joined  the  party  for  a  Hhort  tiiiu;. 

Richmond,  Virginia,  January  18. — I  have  just  arrived  at 
this  place;  but,  before  writing  of  our  journey  l^er^'  'ho  corolu- 
sion  of  my  Btay  at  Washington  must  be  told.     ',,  'ay,  I 

breakfasted  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  B ,  my  frien'     o<  Vhito 

Mountains.     The  Judge  and  Mrs.  Maclean,  an 

member  of  Congress,  were  of  the  party — it  was  vci 

Mrs.  Maclean  walked  back  with  me  as  far  as  ProfesscH    .icury's, 

where  I  went  to  see  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gray ;  and,  before  going  home, 

I  had  to  go  to  Mrs.  S ,  the  artist.     She  has  made  a  slight 

sketcli  of  Longfellow  for  me.  On  my  return  to  the  hotel,  I  had 
much  to  do ;  separating  wardrobe,  books,  and  natural  history 
accumulations,  to  be  f»rwarded  to  Boston:  my  acquisitions  in- 
crease like  a  rolling  snow-ball ;  and  from  all  the  principal  stop- 
ping-places during  my  travels,  I  sen  I  off  packages  to  Mr.  L 's 

care.  At  Washington,  bouquets  are  general  in  full  costume; 
they  are  always  made  up  by  the  gardeners,  but  hardly  ever  con- 
sist of  any  other  flowers  than  Camellias,  Canarinas,  Heliotropes, 
Stecvias,  and  violets,  with  the  berries  of  Ardisia  crenrlata,  and 
the  feathery  foliage  of  Lycopodium  dendroides.  I  received  two 
beautiful  ones  this  afternoon  from  gentlemen ;  a  sweet  bunch  of 
geranium  and  Neapolitan  violets  was  given  me  by  a  young  Cuban 
lady ;  and  I  had  a  white  Camellia,  also,  from  Miss  Seymour.  Mrs. 
Seymour  dined  at  home  with  me,  and  at  six  o'clock  Mrs.  Fish 
called,  to  convey  us  to  the  Observatcry,  accompanied  by  Judge 
Drew  and  Mr.  Miller.  The  stars  shone  brightly — the  finest  show 
of  them  I  have  yet  seen  in  America.  Lieutenant  Maury  took  us 
up  to  the  telescope  directly  on  our  arrival.  We  had  a  good  view 
of  a  spangled  bit  of  sky  in  Perseus,  not  visible  to  the  naked  eye. 
Sirius  appeared  like  a  tuft  of  blue,  red,  and  gold  feathers,  waving 
in  the  heavens ;  Saturn's  globe  and  ring  perfectly  clear  and  dis- 
tinct ;  and  the  bolt  and  five  geometrical-looking  stars  of  Orion 
very  bright.  After  our  eyes  and  minds  were  fatigued  by  these 
marvels,  we  went  in  to  drink  tea  with  Mrs.  Maury,  and  then 


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186 


UNPLEASANT    INCIDENTS. 


returned  to  town  to  attend  Mr.  Guthrie's  reception,  where  I  took 
leave  of  the  Grays,  the  Quaker  lady  of  Philadelphia,  General 
Scott,  Mr.  Maury,  and  many  others  who  have  been  kind  to  me  at 
Washington.  We  returned  home  to  the  dancing  party  at  Wil- 
lard's,  and  found  it  crowded.  I  said  good-bye  to  many  friends 
there ;  and  upon  getting  up  at  six  nei.t  morning  to  depart,  I  found 

Mr.  P and  Mr.  M ,  both  ready  to  see  us  safe  on  board 

the  steamer ;  they  accompanied  us  to  the  Potomac ;  it  was  quite 
dark,  and  their  company  was  very  cheering.  A  fine  sunrise  on 
the  magnificent  river,  and  after  a  very  calm  and  successful  pas- 
sage of  fifty-five  miles,  we  found  the  railroad  cars  at  Acquia 
Creek;  the  distance  to  Hichmond  was  about  seventy  miles; 
weather  continued  bright,  warm,  and  sunshiny.  I  felt  the  influ- 
ence of  a  southern  atmosphere,  and  the  journey  would  have  been 
pleasant  if  I  had  had  pleasanter  neighbours  in  the  car ;  but  just 
before  me  was  a  being  who  called  himself  the  American  Dwarf; 
he  was  about  two  feet  high,  with  fin-like  hands,  and  a  head  nearly 
as  large  as  his  contorted  body :  and,  on  my  right  a  negro  woman, 
in  face  resembling  an  ourang-outang,  who  gloried  in  a  fancy  straw 
bonnet,  trimmed  with  white,  with  artificial  roses  surrounding  her 
black  muzzle.  She  became  dreadfully  sea,  or  rather  rail-sick, 
and  my  window  being  open,  although  there  was  another  on  her 
side,  she  constantly  leaned  across  me  to  take  possession  of  mine ; 
at  last  a  gentlemanly-looking  young  man,  who  I  conclude  was  her 
master,  came  to  my  rescue,  and  throwing  open  a  window  behind, 
he  said  a  few  words  which  made  her  kev<)p  to  her  own  locality. 
This  improved  my  immediate  circumstances ;  but  in  a  few  minutes 
afterwards  we  were  brought  to  a  standstill,  and  looking  out,  saw 
a  dreadful  accident.  Either  from  intoxication  or  insanity,  a  fine- 
looking  young  man,  apparently  not  more  than  twenty-three,  had 
placed  himself  on  the  rail  just  at  a  curve,  so  that  the  engineer 
had  no  time  to  pull  up,  though  he  did  his  best ;  the  poor  wretch 
was  out  in  two,  and  expired  immediately.  All  the  people  evinced 
great  feeling  and  kindness ;  the  corpse  of  the  poor  stranger  was 
taken  up,  and.  we  proceeded.  I  found  the  Exchange  a  comforta- 
ble  hoteJi  and  the  sister  of  Dr.  Gibson  of  Baltimore,  soon  came 


8TATDB  OF  WASHINGTON. 


187 


to  me  with  her  married  daughter ;  and  they  took  me  to  their 

borne,  and  I  passed  a  pleasant  evening,  Mr.  J being  so  kind 

as  to  walk  back  at  night  with  me  through  the  still  and  unfre- 
quented street-  There  was  hardly  a  sound  until  that  usual 
occurrence,  a  peal  of  fire  bells,  broke  the  quiet.  I  have  never 
been  in  any  town  in  the  United  States  without  hearing  such 
alarms.  At  Eichmond  it  is  not  uncommon  to  have  two  or  three 
fires  a  night,  and  these  fires  are  usually  the  work  of  incendiaries ; 
wooden  houses  are  so  easily  set  in  a  blaze,  that  boys  for  mischief, 
and  thieves  for  plunder,  slily  ignite  them. 

January  20. — I  saw  a  great  deal  of  this  pretty  town ;  if  it 
had  the  castle  and  the  ancient  buildings  of  Edinjiurgh,  it  would 
resemble  that  city,  the  Powhatan  River  taking  the  place  of  the 

Forth.     Mrs.  J took  us  across  the  valley  to  sketch  towards 

the  east,  and  I  made  a  drawing  of  tl'  e  locality  round  Washing- 
ton's monument,  the  various  stee  iks,  t  jwers,  &c.,  with  the  Oapitol, 
a  pleasing  Grecian  building,  capping  and  overlooking  the  city, 
and  the  surrounding  country.  Under  the  centre  of  the  domO} 
inside  that  building,  I  saw  the  best  statue  of  Washington  in  the 
whole  Union,  by  Houdier  :  it  is  said  to  be  a  good  likeness,  and,  as 
a  work  of  art,  it  is  most  interesting.  I  could  not  have  believed 
that  the  stiff  costume  of  that  time  could  have  been  so  idealized. 
The  General  stands  in  an  easy  attitude,  leaning  upon  a  bunch  of 
fascines^— the  very  buttons  on  his  coat,  and  the  high  top-boots, 
&c.  &c.,  are  all  indicated,  and  yet  there  vi  no  lack  of  grace,  no 
appearance  of  formality,  in  this  very  fine  statue.  Strange  to  say, 
an  air  of  neglect  and  dilapidation  is  visible  all  round  it;  the 
interior  of  the  building  is  sadly  out  of  repair ;  the  doors  want 
paint,  and  all  is  dirty  and  quite  unworthy  of  the  best  public 
building  in  the  State  of  Virginia,  the  House  of  Legislature  and 
of  business.  Perhaps  a  few  years  will  dissipate  financial  difficul- 
ties, which  have  been  brought  on  by  an  extravagant  railway  ex- 
penditure ;  it  will,  probably,  repay  the  citizens  in  due  time,  and 
then  they  may  be  enabled  to  wipe  off  the  disgrace  of  shabbiness 
which  at  present  hangs  over  their  proceedings. 

Mrs.  G^ called  for  a  handsome  agreeable  lady,  who  aocom' 


:  :!SVv' 


H'    '■'\ 


188 


OHARLOTTEBVILLl. 


panied  us  during  the  rest  of  our  drive.  They  took  me  to  the 
Oemeter}',  beautifully  situated,  and  from  thence  I  made  a  general 
sketch  of  Bichmond,  with  its  crowning  Oapltol,  Powhatan  Biver 
(undignified  by  the  modem  name  of  James),  and  a  foreground  of 
better  trees  than  I  had  yet  seen  in  America.  In  this  place  are 
many  pretty  hollies,  with  red  berries  like  ours,  but  with  leaves 
opaque  instead  of  shining ;  and  before  going  home  we  called  at  a 
nursery-ground,  whore  there  was  nothing  new  to  me,  excepting  a 
shrub  which,  though  now  leafless,  has  bunches  of  small  lilac  ber- 
ries. The  gentleman  did  not  know  what  country  it  came  from, 
or  the  tribe  to  which  it  belongs.  Indeed,  he  told  me,  so  little 
interest  is  Bho#a  for  flowers  in  this  part  of  the  world,  that  since 
he  came  here  from  Scotland,  he  has  rather  lost  than  gained  in 
botanical  and  floral  acquirement.  I  declined  an  invitation  to  dine 
at  three  o'clock ;  such  early  hours  at  this  time  of  year  shorten  the 
already  shortened  days.  After  returning  to  the  hotel  for  the  pur- 
pose of  writing  to  Washington,  I  made  my  way  alone  across  tho 
river  by  a  very  long  wooden  bridge.  On  the  other  side  I  passed 
voluminous  houses,  which  I  was  told  were  flour  and  cotton  mills ; 
beyond  them  the  view  of  Bichmond  waa  fine.  A  brilliant  sunset 
reminded  me  that  there  is  little  tv        t  here,  and  so  I  feared 

that  I  should  hardly  find  my  way  iu  ;  u-^  dark  to  Mrs.  G 's, 

where  tea  awaited  me.  After  some  wanderings  I  reached  her 
house  before  a  very  young  moon  had  disappeared,  and  from  thence 

I  joined  a  small  party  at  Mrs.  M 's. 

January  21. — Our  cars  left  Bichmond  at  seven  this  morn- 
ing, and  the  sun  rose  so  red  that  I  fear  he  promises  rain.  We 
reached  Charlottesville  soon  after  twelve,  and  passed  through  a 
very  pretty  country,  whibh  requires  nothing  but  animal  life  and 
industry  to  make  it  charming.  The  absence  of  fencing  to  the 
railroads  at  once  speaks  of  scanty  flocks  and  herds ;  for,  if  these 
were  not  few  and  far  between,  the  owners  would  insist  upon  pre- 
cautionary measures.  As  it  is,  cows  and  sheep  are  occasionally 
killed  by  the  trains ;  but  when  not  more  than  fifty  beasts  can  be 
seen  in  as  many  miles,  the  risk  is  not  great.  To-day  we  passed 
along  a  rolling*  district,  affording  every  promise  of  a  grateful  re* 

*  Tho  common  ezpre«aioa  iu  America  for  an  undulating  oountiy. 


':M. 


ROAD  TO  BTAUKTON. 


189 


tarn  to  energetic  and  industrious  cultivation.  Yet  I  saw  ploughs 
worked  by  a  single  horse,  which  did  little  moro  than  scratch  the 
surface,  and  a  rich  soil  beneath  was  only  brought  to  light  by  the 
course  of  the  railroad.  Passing  rapidly  along,  I  observed  much 
iron  sand,  excellent  slate,  volcanic  rocks,  gneiss,  greenstone, 
quartz,  plenty  of  water,  a  natural  growth  of  oak  and  chestnut, 
and  I  have  little  doubt  but  that  mineral  riches  are  below.  An 
English  farmer  who  could  bring  free  labour  with  him  here  might 
quickly  make  his  fortune.  The  slave  servants  look  generally 
well  clothed,  merry,  and  content ;  but  of  farm  labour  they  have 
evidently  but  small  knowledge ;  and  a  general  population,  either 
white  or  black,  seems  scanty.  Upon  arriving  at  the  small  town 
of  Charlottesville,  I  was  sorry  to  find  that  Mr.  Stevenson,  the 
former  Minister  to  England,  was  absent  from  his  house,  a  few 
miles  distant.  At  the  University,  however,  I  was  most  kindly 
welcomed  by  tbe  Professor  and  Mrs.  Minor ;  he  and  Professor 
Maupin  showed  me  the  buildings,  and  an  extensive  view  from  the 
roof  of  the  dome.  This  educational  establishment  was  founded 
by  Je£ferson.  It  is  ruled  by  nine  trustees,  who  are  newly 
appointed  every  four  years  by  the  incoming  President  of  the 
United  States ;  and  it  has  this  peculiarity — that  the  governing 
head  of  the  institution  is  changed  every  two  years.  There  is  no 
professor  of  Natural  History  in  any  of  its  branches,  and  no 
teacher  of  Chemistry,  either  agricultural  or  medical ;  so  that  one 
cannot  much  wonder  that  ignorance  respecting  the  soils  and  the 
mineral  riches  of  this  State  should  be  evident,  even  to  an  un< 
practised  eye.  We  slept  at  a  clean  and  reasonable  hotel;  I 
walked  up  in  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  through  red  mud  (much  like 
that  of  Torquay  in  Devonshire),  to  the  college,  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  leave,  and  got  into  the  cars  by  twelve  o'clock.  After 
about  fifty  miles'  journey,  passing  over  mountains  consisting  of 
gneiss,  greenstone,  slaty  rocks,  and  limestone,  we  reached  Staun- 
ton by  a  wonderful  line  of  road :  the  last  part  was  engineered  up, 
and  ploughed  like  a  deep  furrow  along  the  side  of  a  mountain,  to 
the  very  summit,  and  then  down  again  to  the  plain  below.  The 
making  of  this  line  was  ordered  and  superintended  by  the  same 


190 


LEXINGTON. 


German  engineer  who  planned  and  is  erecting  the  suspension 
bridge  from  one  shore  of  Niagara  to  the  other,  with  a  passage  for 
railroad  cars  above  the  caniage  road.  From  what  I  saw  to-day 
my  faith  in  the  success  of  that  bridge  is  almost  undoubting. 
We  find  the  Virginian  Hotel  here  comfortable,  and  the  country 
we  came  through  to-day  must  be  very  picturesque ;  but  rain  and 
fog  prevented  our  seeing  more  than  half  a  mile  from  the  cars. 
Staunton  is  rather  a  pretty  town  ;  as  we  entered,  I  saw  a  hand- 
some building  for  an  asylum  for  the  blind,  and  I  was  told  there 
are  several  other  large  charitable  establishments. 

January  22. — Violent  rain,  storm,  and  wind  during  the  night. 
We  got  up  to  proceed  by  the  mail  stage,  which  started  at  five 
o'clock,  more  punctually  than  is  usual  in  America ;  and  the  bills 
here  and  at  Charlottesville  were  fair  and  reasonable — ^not  a  third 
of  what  we  have  paid  elsewhere.  The  charges  have  varied  from 
two  dollars  to  eight  dollars  a  day :  they  are  never  more  reasona* 
ble  than  in  some  parts  of  England,  sometimes  dearer  than  the 
hotels  of  London  and  Paris.  Wit'h  four  horses,  and  only  four 
persons  in  the  coach,  we  did  not  reach  Lexington  till  after  one 
o'clock.  At  first,  the  master  of  the  tavern  made  some  difficulty 
about  procuring  us  a  carriage  to  go  on  seventeen  miles  to  the 
Natural  Bridge ;  but  after  a  little  demur,  we  got  one  so  as  to  start 
by  half-pact  two.  Lexington  is  a  small  town,  not  very  pictur- 
esque in  itself,  but  standing  in  a  plain  with  fine  mountains  all  round 
at  a  few  miles'  distance — the  nearest,  a  flat-topped  massive-look- 
ing hill,  is  called  by  people  here  "  The  House."  There  are  no 
Indians  in  all  this  part  of  the  country,  and  even  their  beautiful 
names  have  been  forgotten,  and  have  given  place  to  such  Cockney 
appellations  as  Jamea  Biver,  Louisa  Court,  Charlottesville,  &o. 
&c.  There  are  many  signs  of  hard  frost  on  the  road,  which  was 
tolerable  as  far  as  Buchanan ;  planks  were  laid  for  that  distance. 
When  we  turned  oflF  into  the  valley,  about  four  miles  from  the 
rocky  bridge,  our  carriage  was  much  tried ;  the  horses  floundered 
along  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  our  driver  calling  to  us  to  throw  our 
weight  now  upon  one  side,  now  on  the  other,  to  keep  a  balance. 
At  one  time  within  half  a  foot  of  deep  water,  where,  in  case  of 


e ;  but  rain  and 


THE   NATURAL   BRIDGE. 


191 


being  overturned,  we  must  have  been  drowed,  if  we  had  escaped 
being  smashed  in  the  fall ;  at  another,  with  a  descent  of  three 
hundred  feet,  without  the  smallest  guard  upon  our  right.  But 
our  Irish  coachman  was  civil  and  expert ;  he  assured  me  he  would 
not  have  anything  happen  to  us  for  fifty  dollars,  and  happily,  both 
traces  breaking  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  our  destination,  I 
scrambled  out  of  the  vehicle,  rejoiced  to  find  my  feet  once  more 

leaving  R to  take  care  of  the  vehicle,  while  the  driver  went 

back  to  pick  up  the  scattered  boxes.  I  made  my  way  on,  with 
the  help  of  a  bright  young  moon,  to  the  first  little  ho'^el  (there  is 
another,  near  the  Bridge).  It  was  a  rough  place ;  but  I  was  hos- 
pitably received,  and  the  master's  son,  with  a  negro  servant,  set 
off  to  aid  and  guide  the  carriage  through  a  track  which  had  ap- 
peared to  me  in  some  places  wholly  impracticable  for  anything  on 
irheels.     However,  fortunately,  it  was  too  dark  for  R to  see 


;er,  and  the  three  men  guided  her  on  safely  in  about  two 
hours,  much  to  the  relief  of  my  mind.  No  other  catastrophe  oc- 
curred, excepting  that  some  of  my  boxes,  which  had  been  shaken 
off,  were  considerably  mauled,  and  I  hardly  felt  this  as  a  misfor- 
tune, in  consideration  of  our  own  safety.  The  good  people  did 
their  best  to  feed  and  warm  us,  but  as  their  house  is  little  pre- 
pared for  winter  visitors,  and  this  night  a  frost  occun'cd,  seldom 
known  in  Virginia — in  spite  of  a  blazing  wood  fire,  and  a  blanket 
hung  up  over  our  door,  the  water  in  the  jugs  and  basins  was 
frozen  before  daylight.  However,  I  was  glad  to  find,  that  by 
rising  very  early  there  would  be  time  to  see  and  sketch  the  won- 
derful Natural  Bridge,  and  to  reach  the  canal,  two  miles'  distance, 
by  ten  o'clock.  Most  fortunately,  the  steamboat  goes  down  to- 
morrow, otherwise  we  might  have  been  detained  till  Thursday  in 
Lynchburg. 

January  24. — After  all  that  has  been  said  in  praise  of  the 
Natural  Bridge,  I  was  not  disappointed :  the  chasm  over  which  it 
passes  is  Borrower  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top .  beginning  at 
fifty  feet,  it  gradually  widens  to  near  a  hundred,  and  is  about  two 
hundred  and  ninety  feet  in  height,  while  the  way  over  the  top  may 
be  about  twenty  or  thirty  in  width,  guarded  by  natural  walls  of 


1£2 


bOENEB'f  ON  THE  POWHATAN. 


rook,  and  covered  by  five  feet  of  soil,  made  firm  and  bound  toge* 
ther  by  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  small  stream  it  crosses  is 
called  Cedar  Creek,  which,  like  all  the  rivers  of  this  district,  is  as 
turbid  and  as  muddy-looking  as  the  Ouse,  in  Bedfordshire.  The 
rich  soils  of  these  lands  are  borne  down  by  all  these  waters,  to  fer- 
tilize neglected  or  worn-out  farms  in  distant  places.  Looking  at 
this  bridge  from  a  short  distance,  it  has  a  magnificent  appearance, 
and  no  one  would  guess  Nature  to  have  been  her  own  architect, 
'i^he  arch  is  finely  formed :  over  its  centre  the  rock  is  chiselled 
into  the  appearance  of  a  deep-set  window,  and  on  one  side  it  seems 
as  if  supported  by  a  gigantic  buttress,  backed  by  mountains,  and 
set  in  a  framework  of  verdure.  Summer  must  render  this  bridge 
still  more  beautiful ;  but  its  grandeur  can  even  now  be  well  ap- 
preciated. I  engaged  our  driver  and  carriage  of  last  evening  to 
take  us  to  the  place  where  the  Lynchburg  steamer  calls — most 
fortunately — fur  no  conveyance  large  enough  for  luggage  could 
now  have  been  hired.  Fine  mountainous  and  glorious  forest  views 
extend  the  whole  way  down  the  Powhatan.  I  was  reminded  of 
some  parts  of  Germany ;  but  the  scenery  of  this  river  far  exceeds 
that  of  the  Bhine,  though  the  water  has  not  equal  clearness  or 
volume,  and  these  mountains  are  not  ornamented  by  ruined  castles. 
Of  the  Rocky  Bridge  I  often  heard ;  but  neither  books  nor  trav- 
ellers, familiar  to  me,  have  spoken  of  these  forty  miles  of  scenery 
passed  through  by  a  canal,  which  sometimes  travels  by  one  shore, 
then  takes  to  the  river,  and  once  crosses  over  it  to  the  other  side. 
We  passed  at  least  twenty  locks,  going  easily  and  plsasantly ;  our 
speed  averaged  about  four  miles  an  hour— quite  fast  enough,  for 
I  had  time  to  sketch  and  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery,  instead 
of  being  steamed  along  too  rapidly  for  either  pleasure.  A  warm 
sun  befriended  us,  and,  though  the  air  was  rather  cold,  it  was 
clear  and  still,  so  that  with  an  occasional  visit  to  the  cabin  to  warm 
my  hands,  I  was  able  to  sit  all  day  on  deck ;  and  this  passage 
proved  one  of  the  most  agreeable  and  least  tedious  of  all  I  have 
had,  though  it  occupied  nine  hours.  Some  of  the  valleys  travers- 
ing this  mountain  region  are  suspected  to  be  rich  in  minerals  and 
nreoious  stones,  which  is  very  probable.     From  signs  I  observed 


LINKS  OANAL'BOAT. 


108 


on  the  blue  ridge  which  we  mounted  by  the  railroad,  greenstone 
passes  into  limestone ;  mica,  slate,  and  granite  frequently  appear, 
though  I  am  not  enough  of  a  geologist  to  be  able  to  mark  and 
describe  their  exact  locations.  Beautifully  white  gypsum  was  placed 
in  heaps  by  the  river-side  where  we  first  einbarked  on  board  the 
canal  boat,  but  no  one  could  tell  me  from  whence ;  I  saw  star- 
looking  dark  spots,  as  large  as  a  shilling,  in  one  mass,  having 
almost  the  appearance  of  fossils,  though  I  conclude  they  must  have 
been  somis  modification  of  talc.  There  was  no  time  to  get  any 
knoeked  off;  and,  as  people  here  consider  attention  to  stones  or 
flewers  a  very  childish  proceeding,  it  is  difficult  to  gain  their 
attention  to  such  objects.  About  half-way  down  the  river  there 
is  a  large  manufactory  of  cement  made  from  a  limestone  which  con- 
tains iron  and  aluminous  matter.  This  is  burned,  then  powdered, 
and  put  into  barrels,  which  are  sold  for  one  dollar  each.  This  is 
not  the  sole  manufactory  :  there  are  other  localities  in  the  State 
of  New  York  where  it  is  made — towards  the  north,  I  suppose. 
This  is  the  most  firm  and  durable  thing  known  for  cementing 
stones  together :  it  seems  to  become  part  and  parcel  of  their  very 
substance.  An  obliging  gentleman  on  board  procured  me  a  speci- 
men of  the  limestone  in  its  natural  state,  and  also  before  it  is 
ground  after  burning. 

Daylight  had  quite  faded  away  before  wc  landed  here;  the 
captain  provided  us  with  such  an  excellent  daner  of  turkey, 
roast  beef,  and  cranberry  tart,  with  common  potatoes,  sweet  pota- 
toes, fine  celery,  and  glasses  of  sweet  milk,  that  we  were  in  no 
starving  condition ;  and  I  recommend  the  Links  canal-boat  as 
one  of  the  most  pleasurable  conveyances  I  ever  entered,  though 
it  has  no  gorgeous  saloon  or  even  railed  deck.  The  black  cook, 
seeing  me  draw,  came  to  beg  '  missus  would  make  his  picture  for 
his  de  wife,^  which  undertaking  was  accomplished  to  our  mutual 
content,  Darkey  having  evidently  no  vanity  to  wound.  I  cannot 
always  tell  whether  these  black  servants  are  free  or  slaves — ^proba- 
bly the  latter.  They  are  merry,  good-natured,  and  easy  in  their 
manner ;  familiar,  but  in  a  much  pleasanter  way  than  the  helps 
of  the  Northern  States,  who  mistake  an  impertinent  manner  for 
9 


104 


PETEB8BURG. 


|M;<' 


republicanism,  and  speak  as  if  they  thought  themselves  injured 
by  serving  you. 

On  my  arrival  at  this,  the  '  Noble  Hotel,'  a  black  chamber- 
maid took  charge  of  us,  and,  though  the  bed-room  felt  warm,  she 
insisted  on  lighting  a  fire,  for  fear  'missus  should  be  cold.' 
*  Pray,  missus,  have  fire ;  don't  think  of  trouble,  missus — don't 
mind  trouble.'  Some  of  these  blacks  are  officiously  anxious  to 
oblige,  and  this  without  any  motive  of  interest,  as  far  as  I  can 
judge.  We  leave  this  place  at  half-past  nine  for  Petersburg ; 
stay  there  to-night,  and  next  day  go  to  Wilmington  by  steam- 
boat, I  believe,  and  then  to  Charleston  on  Friday  or  Saturday,  I 
hope. 

Petersburg^  Wednesday  Evening. — ^We  left  Lynchburg  at 
nine  this  morning.  As  far  as  I  can  judge,  it  is  a  pretty  place, 
and  the  views  nearly  all  the  way  upon  the  railroad  are  fine.  The 
country,  Devonian  in  rocks  and  scenery ;  I  could  have  fancied 
myself  near  Baldon  Hill,  it  is  so  like  the  neighbourhood  of  Exe- 
ter, part  of  the  way :  the  soil  as  red  and  the  land  equally  rich- 
looking,  but  certainly  not  as  well  cultivated,  or^rendered  as  pro- 
ductive by  good  farming.  At  Petersburg  we  crossed  the  Appo- 
mattox river,  which  falls  into  the  Powhatan  twelve  miles  below 
that  place.  Petersburg  is  evidently  a  growing  town.  I  suppose 
the  numerous  railroads  which  now  traverse  Virginia  will  quickly 
stir  up  the  inhabitants,  and  make  them  aware  that  their  State,  as 
it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  has  also  capabilities  which  might 
render  it  the  most  rich  and  thriving.  We  came  over  the  highest 
viaduct  I  ever  crossed,  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet !  I  was  so 
terrified  that  I  could  not  look  out  for  giddiness :  it  is  built  on 
piles ;  the  engineer  who  planned  it  and  the  bridges  over  the  Pow- 
hatan at  Lynchburg,  was  in  the  cars,  and  assured  us  of  safety ; 
but  it  was  difficult  to  feel  at  ease  during  the  transit.  We  reached 
this  place  before  five,  and  I  intend  to  leave  it  by  the  train  at 
three  o'clock  to-morrow  morning,  for  W  ilmington. 

Thursday,  January  25. — ^We  reached  Wilmington  by  eight 
o'clock  this  evening,  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  nearly  all  the 
way  through  pine  barrens,  which  are  not  barren  of  turpentine  and 


MR.    GUSHING   ON   TFB  WAR. 


195 


tar ;  these  products  are  extracted  from  the  pitch  pinei^.  There 
are  many  large  manufactories  to  procure  them  ;  the  trees  have 
the  bark  taken  off  about  ten  feet  on  one  side,  and  vessels  are 
placed  to  catch  the  turpentine.  When  this  is  exhausted,  the 
trees  are  cut  down,  sawed  into  lengths,  and  placed  in  circles,  with 
a  fire  in  the  centre,  much  in  the  way  charcoal  is  made ;  but  as 
the  tar  comes  out  it  is  made  to  run  into  pipes,  and  the  wood  when 
exhausted  is  covered  over,  and  becomes  charcoal.  From  Peters- 
burg, the  whole  country  consists  of  poor  sands  and  clay,  like  part 
of  Hampshire  and  the  adjoining  bit  of  Dorset.  The  sand  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  way  is  as  white  as  that  around  Bourne- 
mouth.  Not  far  from  a  place  called  Goldsbbrough,  a  colony  of 
Irish  appear  to  be  comfortably  settling  themselves ;  what  they 
cultivate  I  cannot  judge,  passing  rapidly,  at  this  time  of  year ; 
they  seemed  healthy  and  well  clothed  ,*  and  I  observed  pigs  of  all 
ages,  and  several  cows.  It  was  a  pleasant  sight  to  see  these  poor 
people  making  the  wilderness  a  springing  well,  and  the  barren 
land  rich.  I  should  like  to  bring  all  the  '  Know  Nothings'  of  the 
country  to  look  at  them.  I  am  told  this  faction  abounds  in  the 
South ;  it  is  evident  there  are  men  guiding  this  movement  who 
ought  to  know  better ;  but  some  are  making  political  profit  of 
the  ignorance  and  mistaken  patriotism  of  their  weaker  neigh- 
bours, and  hope  to  attain  power  by  such  means.  I  am  sorry  to 
find  a  considerable  party  in  the  United  States  advocate  openly 
the  principle  of '  ioing  evil  that  good  may  come,'  as  regards  their 
own  country;  and  Mr.  Cushing,  the  Attorney-General  of  the 
States,  informed  me  without  circumlocution,  speaking  of  the  Eu- 
ropean war,  that  the  Turks  being  effete^  and  a  sea-board  being 
necessary  for  the  Russians,  it  was  perfectly  right  and  proper  that 
the  latter  should  devour  the  former.  If  it  be  possible  for  repub- 
licans to  be  in  the  pay  of  despotism,  I  should  imagine  this  gen- 
tleman must  be  one  of  the  favoured  emissaries  of  the  Emperor 
Nicholas.  After  passing  through  the  rich,  ill-cultivated  High- 
lands of  Virginia,  it  is  curious  to  observe  how  much  more  is  com- 
paratively drawn  from  the  unthankful  soil  we  passed  through  to- 
day ;  half  this  care  and  industry  bestowed  upon  the  former  would 


iiJii:llHl 


i!i 


I'      ! 


196 


BLACK    SERVANTS. 


be  returned  tenfold.  I  observed  some  few  Bhododendrons 
and  Ealmias  upon  the  blue  ridge,  as  we  descended  by  that 
wonderful  railroad ;  and  for  fifty  miles,  as  we  approached  this 
place,  the  undergrowth  was  rich  in  all  those  showy  evergreens  we 
call  American.  On  the  trees  I  saw  bunches  of  an  Epiphyte, 
growing  like  our  mistletoe,  and  the  long  hair-like  lichen,  or  para- 
sitical plant,  I  have  so  often  heard  described  as  clothing  the 
woods  in  the  South ;  it  covered  and  hung  round  many  trees  I 
saw  in  a  swamp  this  afternoon.  I  am  much  amused  with  the 
<  Blackies,'  who  act  as  chambermaids  everywhere  now ;  they 
quite  take  possession  of  us,  remain  in  the  room  sans  ceremonie, 
and  are  officious  and  curious  beyond  belief.  One  watched  me 
drawing  to-night  with  great  astonishment;  she  said  she  had 
'  never  seen  any  one  do  that  before ;  how  can  you  make  marks 
that  look  like  places  ?  Tou  must  have  a  clever  head !'  I  begged 
for  snuffers,  a  tallow  candle  having  a  long  nose.  '  Oh,  I  does  that 
with  my  fingers ;  but  I'll  find  you  an  old  pair  of  scissors.'  When 
we  asked  for  some  warm  water,  she  thought  the  request  very  ex- 
traordinary, and  burst  into  a  hoarse  laugh.  They  certainly 
are  very  unlike  the  white  race;  but  everybody  seems  good- 
natured  to  them :  they  come  into  the  cars  and  sit  where  they 
please.  I  see  none  of  the  white  exclusiveness  I  had  been  taught 
to  expect. 

Ycurs  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


I      > 


f,  ),■  ^ 


ii^li 


l^  ^^  ^  ^j?  ^:^  l^  ^^  ^i  l^  ^S  ^  ^j? 


.»i.  ■',■-:      .-•  ■•.'   .:>. 


LETTEii  xyn. 


Obabubtom,  i/'antM' /-?>  7|  ISBtL 

My  dear  Friends, — 

The  post  for  England  wont  off  to-day  unexpectedly ;  I  had 
only  a  few  minutes'  warning,  and  no  time  to  look  at  my  letter,  so 
that  I  forget  whether  I  wrote  last  from  Petersburg ;  but  as  we 
reached  Wilmington  too  late  at  night,  and  started  too  early  to  see 
anything  of  that  place,  I  could  not  have  said  much  about  iib. 
White  sand  and  pine  barrens  made  up  the  whole  two  hundred 
and  sixty  miles  of  yesterday's  journey.  It  required  twenty-two 
hours'  railroad  to  accomplish  that  distance.  Almost  all  the  pitch 
pines  are  disfigured,  and  most  probably  will  be  killed,  by  the  bark 
being  stripped  off,  that  the  turpentine  may  drip  from  it  into  a 
small  vessel  placed  on  the  ground.  The  forest  looks  as  if  it  was 
planted  with  white  posts;  but  this  is  occasionally  relieved  by 
thickets  of  Rhododendron,  Kalmia,  and  Phyllerea,  which  must  be 
splendid  when  flowering,  in  May ;  and  about  sixty  miles  from  this 
place  the  pitch  is  superseded  by  the  Pinus  palustris.  It  is  pretty 
to  see  the  long  tassel-like  looking  leaves  streaming  in  the  wind ; 
but  it  makes  a  very  transparent-looking  forest,  as  the  branches 
grow  wide  apart,  and  the  bunches  of  foliage  are  also  distant  from 
each  other.  I  begin  to  mark  cotton  plantations,  and  my  com- 
passionate feelings  are  rapidly  changing  sides.  It  appears  to  me 
oar  benevolent  intentions  in  England  have  taken  a  mistaken  direc- 
tion, and  that  we  should  bestow  our  compassion  on  the  masters  in* 


'S'l 


198 


*  UNCLE  TOM's  OABIN.' 


stead  of  on  the  slaves.  The  former  by  no  means  enjoy  the  inoubu. 
with  which  oircumstanoes  have  loaded  them,  and  would  be  only 
too  happy  if  they  could  Bupersede  this  black  labour  by  white ; 
but  as  to  the  negroes,  they  are  tho  merriest,  most  contented 
set  of  people  I  ever  saw ;  of  course  there  are  exceptions,  but  I  am 
inclined  to  suspect  that  we  have  as  much  vice,  and  more  suffering, 
than  is  caused  here  by  the  unfortunate  institution  of  Slavery ;  and 
I  very  much  doubt  if  freedom  will  ever  make  the  black  popula- 
tion, in  the  mass,  anything  more  than  a  set  of  grown-up  children. 
Even  as  to  the  matter  of  purchase  and  sale,  it  is  disliked  by 
masters ;  and  I  find  compassion  very  much  wasted  upon  the  ob- 
jects of  it.     An  old  lady  died  here  lately,  and  her  negroes  were 

to  be  parted  with  ;  Mrs.  S ,  an  acquaintance  of  mine,  knew 

these  blacks,  and  shed  tears  about  their  change  of  fate ;  but  when 
they  came  to  market,  and  sh.  found  all  so  gay  and  indifferent 
about  it,  she  could  not  help  feeling  her  sorrow  was  greatly  thrown 
away.  Mrs.  Stowe's  Topsy  is  a  perfect  illustration  of  Darkie's 
character,  and  many  of  the  sad  histories  of  which  her  book  is 
made  up  may  be  true  as  isolated  facts ;  but  yet  I  feel  sure  that, 
as  a  whole,  the  story,  however  ingeniously  worked  up,  is  an  unfair 
picture ;  a  libel  upon  tho  slaveholders  as  a  body.  I  very  much 
doubt  if  a  real  Uncle  Tom  can  often  be  found  in  the  whole  negro 
race ;  and  if  such  a  being  is,  or  was,  he  is  as  great  a  rarity  as  a 
Shakspeare  among  wliites.  One  particular  want  appears  to  me 
evident  in  negro  minds  and  character :  they  have  no  conscious- 
ness of  the  fitness  of  things.  I  suffer  now  from  the  cold  wintry 
weather  here  ;  and  upon  my  begging  Blackie  for  a  better  fire  in 
my  room,  in  the  civilest,  most  anxious  tone,  he  asked  whether  I 
would  not  like  some  iced  water  ?  (Knowing  this  to  be  a  luxury 
in  hot  weather,  he  would  never  consider  that  it  might  be  lcs3 
acceptable  in  cold.)  We  have  lately  had  black  chambermaids  in 
all  hotels.  Thoy  are  perfectly  good-natured,  and  officiously 
anxious  to  help  us  in  all  matters  in  which  their  assistance  is  not 
required.  '  Let  I  do  this,  Missus,'  and  *  Let  I  do  that,'  when 
perhaps  it  is  hard  to  induce  them  to  do  what  is  really  wanted— 
to  light  the  fire  when  we  are  cold,  or  to  bring  a  little  warm  water 


DARETES  AS  NtTSSES. 


199 


wben  clean  hands  would  be  a  luxury.  They  fairly  take  possession 
of  us,  and  unless  we  lock  them  oiit,  they  stand  to  watch  our  pro* 
Gcedings,  and  curiously  to  inspect  our  things.  '  Adeline,'  at 
Lynchburg,  saw  my  sketch  of  the  black  cook  on  board  the  Links 
canal-boat,  at  which  she  burst  into  a  loud  laugh,  and  exclaimed, 
'  He  very  like  a  monkey,  missus — wc  very  like  monkics.'  And 
she  appeared  delighted  with  her  own  wit — ^not  at  all  hurt  by  the 
idea.  A  pretty  Southern  lady  arrived  at  the  hotel,  with  a  fair 
infant  in  the  arms  of  his  black  nurse.  I  came  out  from  the  tea- 
room rather  sooner  than  was  expected,  and  found  all  the  Darkies 
that  could  get  away  assembled  round  the  tiny  massa,  (they  are 
very  fond  of  children,  nnd  make  capital  nurses,^ — tender,  watchful, 
playful,  and  yet,  I  think,  firm ;  but  they  are  firm  only  with  chil- 
dren), jumping  and  screaming  their  delight.  Upon  seeing  me  an 
elderly  man  came  forward,  with  a  grin  and  a  bow — '  The  black 
population  are  only  enjoying  themselves,  missus.'  I  said  I  was 
glad  they  were  happy,  and  left  them  to  their  happiness.  At  one 
of  the  railroad  stations  I  watched  a  young  and  intelligent-looking 
black  man,  considerably  beyond  boyhood,  perseveringly  keeping 
up  a  kind  of  Highland  tr(  t  over  a  number  of  small  pitch  barrels 
with  all  the  zest  of  a  white  child  from  four  to  six  years  of  age. 
I  begin  to  doubt  whether  they  ever  grow  mentally  after  twenty. 
They  are  precocious  children,  being  so  imitative ;  they  soon  ripen, 
conic  to  a  stand-still,  and  advance  no  farther.  In  this  respect 
Uncle  Tom  is  a  myth,  but  Topsy  a  reality.  I  mean  to  go  and 
see  a  sale  of  slaves ;  my  wish  is  to  judge  the  subject  fairly  in  all 
its  bearings,  and  this  I  may  be  trusted  to  do  even  by  Abolitionists ; 
for  early  prejudices  and  my  national  and  acquired  feelings  are 
certainly  opposed  to  slavery ;  but  if  countenances  are  '  a  history 
as  well  as  a  prophecy,'  the  national  expression  of  faces  in  the 
^orth  as  contrasted  with  those  of  the  South  tell  a  strange,  and 
to  me  an  unexpected  story,  as  regards  the  greatest  happiness  prin- 
ciple of  the  greatest  number  I     Of  course,  it  must  be  borne  in 


minW    fVinf    mrk    villi/ 


Ti^K/\iif   A-v/iA«\4-irhn  •     l-kii4>     r\\\     4Ha    Kn/w«wn«iH 


? 


") 


*> 


»66« 


anxious,  melancholy,  restless,  sickly,  hopeless  faces  I  have  seen 
m  the  Northern  States — in  the  rail-cars,  on  the  steam-boats,  in 


200 


EAIILT   SELf-KELXANOE. 


''■■■A,! 


the  saloons,  and  particularly  in  the  ladies'  parlour.  There  is 
beauty  of  feature  ancl  complexion,  with  hardly  any  individuality 
of  character.  Nothing  like  simplicity,  even  among  children  after 
ten  years  of  age — ^hot-house,  forced  impetuous  beings,  the  almighty 
dollars,  the  incentive  and  only  guide  to  activity  and  appreciation. 
Women  care  that  their  husbands  should  gain  gold,  that  they  may 
spend  it  in  dress  and  ostentation ;  and  the  men  like  that  their 
wives  should  appear  as  queens,  whether  they  rule  well,  or  ill,  or 
at  all ;  yet  it  is  certain  that  I  have  made  the  acquaintance,  and 
that  I  value  the  friendship,  of  superior  women  in  the  North,  and 
if  I  should  be  thought  to  have  expressed  myself  with  too  much 
severity,  I  appeal  to  their  candour  and  judgment;  and  being 
American  cousins  they  have  the  Anglo-Saxon  love  of  Truth,  and 
will  not  spurn  her  even  in  an  unveiled  form,  or  receive  her  un- 
graciously even  when  thus  presented.  I  have  reason  to  speak 
gratefully,  and  warmly  do  I  feel,  and  anxiously  do  I  venture  these 
observations,  which  may  seem  even  harsh  and  ungrateful.  I  do 
not  yet  know  much  of  the  Southern  ladies ;  but  from  Washing* 
ton  to  this  place  I  have  been  struck  by  a  general  improvement 
of  countenance  and  manner  in  the  white  race,  and  this  in  spite  of 
the  horrors  which  accompany  the  misuse  of  tobacco.  If  the 
gentlemen  of  this  part  of  the  country  would  only  acquire  habits 
of  self-control  and  decency  in  this  matter,  they  would  indeed  be- 
come the  Preux  Chevaliers  of  the  United  States,  as  their  hills 
and  valleys  may  prove  the  store-houses  and  gardens  of  the  Union. 
May  their  sons  and  daughters  look  to  these  things,  and  increase 
in  wealth,  prosperity,  virtue,  and  happiness !  ^ 

In  the  railroad-cars  the  day  before  yesterday,  when  asking  for 
information  as  to  the  name  of  a  place,  a  youth  sitting  near  offered 
to  go  and  find  it  out  for  me ;  he  had  the  air  of  a  ruddy,  healthy- 
looking  Englishman,  and  I  was  struck  by  the  frank,  ingenuous 
manner  with  which  he  came  forward  :  he  stood  by  my  seat,  and 
afterwards  conversed  freely,  yet  without  conceit  or  forwardness. 
I  elicited  that  his  parents  are  Bavarian,  residing  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  Munich ;  that  at  sixteen  he  came  out  to  this  country 
alone,  as  a  traveller,  in  some  business ;  that  he  loves  his  own 


CHARLESTON. 


people  and  his  friends,  and  hopes,  some  day,  to  revisit  them;  but 
that  it  is  probable  the  duties  of  his  calling  will  detain  him  in 
America  for  years.  I  would  stake  my  existence  upon  the  honour 
and  integrity  of  that  boy ;  he  will  prove  a  fine  example  of  the 
advantages  of  early  collision  and  of  self-reliance.  I  have  heard 
the  Lord's  Prayer  quoted  as  an  arr  aient  for  keeping  boys  out  of 
the  indurating  process  of  early  temptation.  I  cannot  think  that 
the  words  alluded  to  have  any  other  sense  than  of  an  individual 
petition  for  strength  to  overcome.  Every  boy  wrapped  in  what 
the  canny  Scotch  wife  calls  the  *  blue  blanket,'  may  not  prove 
vicious,  but  most  of  them  *  sow  their  wild  oats'  between  eighteen 
and  twenty-five,  instead  of  some  years  earlier ;  and  those  who  do 
not,  in  ninety-nine  oases  out  of  a  hundred  become  weak  and  un- 
decided characters.  It  must  be  remembered  that  weakness  comes 
nigh  to  wickedness,  though  it  may  not  be  (as  the  old  proverb  has 
it)  worse  than  wickedness.  The  Professors  at  the  Virginian 
University  tell  me  they  regret  that  Jeffierson  (its  founder)  placed 
it  away  from  a  town.  I  asked  what  their  experience  led  them  to 
think  of  home  education  for  young  men,  and  received  the  same 
answer  as  I  have  already  from  experienced  heads  of  houses  at 
Oxford  and  Cambridge :  that  all  the  care  of  a  virtuous  home  will 
not  make  up  for  the  life-training  of  the  world,  best  given  at  an 
age  when  the  temptations  of  vice  have  less  strength,  and  its  ugli- 
ness is  more  apparent  than  it  will  be  some  years  later.  I  consider 
this  subject  as  one  of  such  overwhelming  importance  to  the 
Christian  and  moral  welfare  of  those  concerned,  that  no  scruples, 
either  of  affection  or  interest,  shall  induce  me  to  conceal  these 
opinions,  or  mask  my  own  convictions. 

Charleston,  January  29. — A  cold  day  yesterday,  and  wet 
all  this  morning.     I  have  only  made  acquaintance  with  some 

friends  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R .     They  took  me  last  night  to 

what  I  should  not  have  seen  of  my  own  accord  in  America, 
Waugh's  Italia  removed ;  it  consists  of  beautiful  panoramic  views 
of  all  the  finest  sights  and  views  in  Italy.  I  never  met  with  any- 
thing superior  of  the  kind,  and  I  hope  they  may  some  day  be  taken 
to  England.    This  hotel  is  vary  good ;  much  better  ordered  than 


202 


THE   TILLANDSIA   U8NOIDE8. 


Willard's,  at  Washington ;  or  even  than  the  St.  Nicholas  at  New 
York,  in  point  of  real  comfort,  although  less  gorgeously  furnished 
than  the  latter.  Of  this  city  I  have  as  yet  seen  nothing ;  hut 
the  streets  and  houses  appear  to  be  clean  and  well  kept.  Last 
night  I  heard  parties  of  darkies  singing,  as  they  passed  the  win- 
dows, those  negro  melodies  the  airs  of  which  have  becorao  familiar 
in  England.  Music,  nursing,  washing,  and  cooking  are  their 
peculiar  talents,  and  cheerfulness  their  special  virtue.  After 
dinner  to-day  I  had  the  first  good  orange  I  have  tasted  since 
I  came  South.  It  has  surpirised  me  to  find  that  fruit  is  more 
scarce  and  dearer  in  Virginia  and  Carolina  than  with  us.  I  am 
not  to  see  orange  trees  till  I  reach  Florida;  and  throughout  the 
United  States  their  fruit  is  much  less  plentiful  than  in  England 
— perhaps  at  New  Orleans  I  may  find  it  otherwise.  Sweet  pota- 
toes :  nd  turtle  are  both  frequent  at  the  dinner-table  of  this  hotel. 
This  evening  one  ot  my  pleasant  Washington  acquaintances,  Mr. 

P ,  came  to  see  me,  and  we  are  to  go  together  to-morrow,  to 

call  on  Mrs.  H .     It  has  poured  all  the  morning,  so  I  have 

not  been  out. 

This  is  a  fine  day ;  several  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  this  place 

called  on  me,  and  I  received  Mr.  and  Mrs.  H ,  who  forestalled 

my  intention,  by  coming  to  me.  Professor  and  Mrs.  Gibbs  took 
me  to  make  a  sketch  of  the  Ettewan  and  Yemassce  Rivers  from 
the  Battery,  at  White  Point.  There  I  saw  the  first  palmetto  I 
ever  yet  met  with  in  the  open  air ;  and,  on  my  return  to  the 
hotel,  a  gentleman  told  me  the  Isabel  steamer  had  just  brought  a 
cargo  of  oranges  from  Cuba.  In  one  garden  this  morning,  I  saw 
a  standard  orange  tree,  with  some  fruit  upon  it,  but  it  was  sup- 
posed not  to  be  sweet ;  and  since  that  I  have  found  several  of  the 
same,  bearing  only  what  we  should  call  Seville  oranges.  The 
timber-trees  of  Magnolia  grandiflora  all  about  this  place  are  fine, 
and  must  bo  beautiful  in  summer,  but  this  severe  winter  renders 
vegetation  very  backward ;  and  I  see  some  of  the  live  oaks 
{Quercus  virens)  rather  cut  by  the  cold.  The  Tillandsia usnoides 
(called  everywhere  here  by  the  name  of  hanging  moss),  having 
<he  appearance,  at  a  little  distance,  of  our  hair-like  lichens, 


BOTANIZING. 


208 


dresses  most  of  the  trees,  but  especially  the  live  oak,  with  its 
graceful  pendulous  bunches,  sometimes  hanging  a  yard  and  a  half 
long;  the  stem  is  not  larger  than  a  thread,  set  with  small, 
rounded,  frosted  white  leaves ;  the  little  sweet-scented,  reddish, 
purplish  flowers  come  out  at  the  end  of  the  rope-like  stems  which 
swing  about  in  the  breeze.  They  steep  this  Tillandsia  in  water, 
and  use  its  black,  hair-like  fibres  for  stuffing  mattresses  and  pillows; 
the  seeds  being  light,  are  carried  about  by  the  wind,  and  stick 
and  fructify  in  all  the  trees  around ;  yet  it  seems  difficult  to  cul- 
tivate, for  I  have  never  seen  it  in  our  English  Epiphyte  houses. 
The  temperature  of  any  greenhouse  would  suit  its  constitution, 
but  I  imagine  it  requires  to  be  blown  about ;  and  a  still  atmos- 
phere is  probably  uncongenial  to  the  habits  of  this  pretty  waving 
plant.  I  have  seen  a  live  oak  as  large  as  any  of  our  British  oaks, 
having  upon  it  as  many  tufts  of  Tillandsia  as  leaves ;  it  does  not 
appear  to  be  injurious  like  the  mistletoe,  but  adds  to  the  beauty 
of  its  adopted  parent  without  shortening  the  life  of  whatever 

sustaining  tree  may  support  it.     I  drank  tea  at  Mrs.  R 's, 

and  spent  a  pleasant  evening  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  H . 

January  30. — Professor  and  Mrs.  Gibbs  called  for  me  at 
eleven  in  the  morning,  and  we  had  a  delightful  day  in  the  open 
air,  botanizing,  &c.  Dr.  Gibbs  knew  every  plant  and  seed.  For 
the  first  time  I  found  yarras  and  cactuses  in  the  hedge-rows ; 
ferns,  such  as  Polypodium  incanum,  plentifully  on  ancient  live 
oaks,  Asplenium  ebeneum,  and  Botrychium  Yirginiacum,  in  an 
English  looking  lane ;  the  beautiful  little  Houstonia  serpyllifolia 
and  Mitchella  repens,  with  scarlet  twin  berries ;  Prunus  Caro- 
linian ;  and  the  Jasmine-coloured  Gelseminium  sempervirens  twin- 
ing up  it,  and  through  the  hedges  of  Ilex  Cassine.  I  often  feel 
in  this  country  as  if  I  had  been  removed  to  a  new  heavens  and  a 
new  earth,  and  as  if  my  enjoyments  now  are  a  foretaste  of  worlds 
where  space  and  time  will  open  out  fresh  delights,  in  a  fuller 
comprehension  of  the  mighty  Creator  and  his  mighty  works. 

At  a  pretty  spot  called  Gibbs'  Farm,  belonging  to  some  part 
o£  the  Professor's  family,  we  passed  great  part  of  the  morning ; 
in  a  small  garden  belonging  to  it,  I  gathered  bundles  of  that 


liil] 


.f  f 'i 


1  !i> 


111 


204 


MAGNOLIA  CBMETERT. 


beftatifnl  paper  Narcissus,  so  rare  in  England,  and  I  knocked 
down  what  is  here  called  a  sour  orange  {alias  bitter)  from  a  fine 
bush  thirty  feet  high.  Then  after  making  a  sketch  of  that 
picturesque  homestead,  with  its  venerable  oaks,  the  Tillandsia, 
imitating  the  white  beard  and  silvery  locks  of  age,  Mrs.  Gibbn 
placed  at  my  feet  a  basket  filled  with  oranges  and  bananas  from 
Ouba,  for  lunch,  and  I  made  these  a  foreground  for  my  drawing. 
We  again  got  into  the  carriage  and  made  our  progress  to  Mag- 
nolia Cemetery.  Owing  to  the  usual  redclessness  of  American 
habits,  we  had  to  cross  a  railroad  which  runs  for  some  way  along 
the  side  of  the  road ;  we  had  hardly  passed  over  it  a  moment, 
when  the  train  rushed  by ;  there  is  not  even  a  slight  fence  to 
divide  the  iron  from  the  common  track,  and  they  say  horses  get 
used  to  the  cars,  and  men  to  the  necessary  caution,  so  that  after 
a  little  practice,  few  accidents  occur ;  of  course,  cows  and  oxen 
and  sheep  are  smashed  now  and  then,  but  the  Company  pays,  and 
that  is  all.  I  never  cross  these  roads  without  a  sensation  of 
terror.  Magnolia  Cemetery  is  pretty ;  it  has  a  chapel  built  like 
a  country  church  in  England;  in  style,  simple  perpendicular 
Gothic,  with  a  light  and  elegant  spire.  The  grounds  are  orna- 
mented by  a  creek,  which  makes  its  way  up  from  the  Ettewan 
Biver,  and  its  waters,  even  here,  are  rather  salt.  I  sketched  the 
entrance  and  chapel,  and  then  a  fine  live  oak,  with  Charleston  and 
the  Accabee  Biver  uniting  itself  to  the  ocean  in  the  distance ;  a 
foreground  of  tombs,  which  are  here  well  chosen  in  point  of  taste, 
and  without  those  white  boundary  posts  which  I  have  mentioned 
as  disfiguring  Greenwood,  Hamilton,  and  some  of  the  other  bury- 
ing-grounds  in  Canada  and  the  United  States,  which  are  other- 
wise so  far  in  advance  of  the  mother  country  in  sentiment  and 
beauty.  Bepublioanism  forgets  itself  in  the  concerns  of  the  grave 
and  of  immortality.  Strange  that  when  all  are  really  supposed 
equal,  love  and  truth  banishes  the  equality  which  is  emblematical 
of  pride,  and  cultivates  only  the  freedom  of  virtue  I  There  is 
more  love  of  nature  evinced  in  the  cemeteries  of  America,  than 
in  the  arrangements  for  the  living ;  life  is  the  myth,  eternity  the 
reality  of  existence ;  beautiful  flowers  are  cultivated  for  the  dead: 


BELMONT. 


206 


tute  is  pure,  and  feeling  uncontaminated  by  dollars  and  cents. 
The  monuments,  tombs,  and  inscriptions  are  generally  patbetio 
and  interesting,  free  from  the  bombast  and  posthumous  flattery 
too  common  in  England.  As  the  families  arc  together  in  these 
last  homes,  usually  the  surname  marks  each  entrance  gate ;  within, 
one  often  sees  a  marble  urn,  or  slab,  marked  with  little  more  than 
'  our  brother,'  *  a  dearly  loved  sister,'  *  my  wife,'  '  little  Addy,' 
<  our  kind  parents,' '  two  precious  babes,'  &c.,  &c.  These  simple 
words  attract  the  sympathy  of  strangers  and  awaken  the  tender- 
ness of  friends  far  more  than  eulogies.  I  never  walk  through 
these  cemeteries  without  a  sensation  of  pleasure  derived  from  the 
consciousness  of  Christian  brotherhood,  rather  than  of  sorrow 
from  that  of  our  common  fate.  Here  I  realize  more  that  we 
shall  all  be  made  alive  again,  than  that  we  shall  all  die.  Till 
flunset  we  remained  out ;  there  was  little  temptation  to  return 
home  for  dinner ;  I  was  most  willing  to  exchange  it  for  tea ;  and 
afterwards  my  pleasant  Washington  friend  called  and  took  me  to 
a  little  dancing  party,  at  the  house  of  one  of  his  married  daugh- 
ters, where  I  saw  young  ladies  more  natural,  and  more  gracefully 
and  simply  attired,  than  in  the  Northern  States ;  both  the  tone 
of  voice  and  the  choice  of  words  and  pronunciation  are  much 
more  like  old  England  as  one  proceeds  further  south ;  the  habits 
simpler  and  more  unostentatious,  and  the  dress  of  every-day  wear 
is  suitable  and  gentlewoman-like,  instead  of  being,  as  in  the  North, 
unbecoming,  stiff,  and  extravagant ;  the  young  women  plastering 
their  hair,  and  wearing  silks  fit  for  their  grandmothers,  and  the 
middle-aged  spending  hours  in  repairing  the  ravages  of  time,  by 
studious  artificial  contrivances,  which,  after  all,  make  themselves 
evident  to  the  most  superficial  observers. 

Janitary  31. — I  spent  a  delightful  day  with  Mrs.  H ,  who 

took  me  out  to  her  cottage,  four  miles  distant ;  there  we  provi- 
sioaally  planted  the  ferns  and  other  treasures  I  took  up  on  Tues- 
day. She  will  let  them  grow  there  until  I  am  ready  to  receive 
them  at  Boston,  next  September,  to  be  planted  in  my  Ward's  case. 
Belmont  is  a  charming  spot ;  it  is  (like  the  Southern  ladies)  not 
3ver  dressed ;  it  has  the  Ettewau  on  one  side,  and  the  forest  on 


11 
I 

t:    I 


'!1j 


f 
I 

i 


i 


206 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  SLAVERY. 


tho  Other ;  slaves  who  arc  adopted  children,  and  Irish  labourers 
who  have  adopted  a  umster  and  mistress.  I  begged  to  go  into  a 
negro  cottago  in  tho  wood ;  tho  parents  were  out,  and  wo  found 
only  a  covey  of  tiny  '  darkies,'  from  two  years  to  eight — '  very  like 
monkeys,'  as  Adeline  would  have  said.  The  negro  race  never  sit 
down  to  a  meal  if  they  can  possibly  avoid  doing  so ;  they  have 
always  some  sticks  burning,  and  a  kind  of  pot  au  feu ;  in  one 
corner  of  tho  tolerably  comfortable  abode  was  a  fishing  not,  and 
another  net  held  an  omnium  gatherum  of  eatables :  no  groat 
attention  to  cleanliness,  but  tho  uppearnnce  of  everything  out  of 
doors  was  liko  that  of  a  small  farm  in  England — cows,  chickens, 
&c.,  «&c.  I  beg  to  think  wo  anti-slavers  and  abolitionists  are  aa 
much  blinded  by  names  as  tho  republicans,  who  think  they  have 
shaken  off  an  aristocracy,  because  they  have  got  rid  of  dukes  and 
duchesses,  and  lords  and  Indies.  I  must  extract  some  observa- 
tions from  a  work  published  here,  which  my  short  experience  of 
a  slave  country  induces  mo  unhesitatingly  to  adopt  as  my  own. 

'  Slavery  may  not  be  the  best  system  of  labour,  but  it  is  the  best 
for  the  negro  in  this  country.  If  it  be  true  of  the  English  soldier 
or  sailor,  that  his  condition  has  been  ameliorated  in  the  last  fifty 
years,  it  is  quite  as  true  of  the  negro.  Slavery  is  that  system  of 
labour  which  exchanges  subsistence  for  work,  which  secures  a  life 
maintenance  from  the  master  to  the  slave,  and  gives  a  life  labour 
from  the  slave  to  the  master.  Slavery  is  tho  negro  system  of 
labour :  he  is  lazy  and  improvident ;  slavery  makes  him  work, 
and  ensures  him  a  home,  food,  and  clothing;  it  provides  for  sick- 
ness, infancy  and  old  ago ;  allows  no  tramping  or  skulking,  and 
knows  no  pauperism.  All  cruelty  is  an  abuse ;  does  not  belong 
to  the  institution  ;  is  contrary  to  law  ;  may  be  punished,  prevented, 
and  removed.  If  slavery  is  subject  to  abuses,  it  has  its  compen- 
sations also ;  it  establishes  permanent,  and  therefore  kind,  relations 
between  labour  and  capital.  It  does  away  with  what  Stuart  Mill 
calls  *  the  widening  and  embittering  feud  between  labour  and  capi- 
tal.' It  draws  close  tho  relation  between  master  and  servant ;  it 
is  not  an  engagement  for  days,  weeks,  but  for  life.  The  most 
wretched  feature  in  hireling  labour  is  the  isolated,  miserable  crea- 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  8LAVEBT. 


207 


tare  who  has  no  homo,  no  work,  no  food,  and  in  whom  no  one  is 
particularly  intorcstod.  Sla^/ery  does  for  the  negro  what  Eu* 
ropean  Hohemerg  iu  vain  attempt  to  do  for  the  hireling.  On  every 
plantation  the  master  is  a  poor-law  commissioner,  to  provide  food, 
clothing,  medicine,  houses,  for  his  people.  -He  is  a  police  officer 
to  prevent  idleness,  drunkenness,  theft,  or  disorder ;  there  is  there- 
fore no  starvation  among  slaves,  and  comparatively  few  crimes. 
The  poet  tells  us  there  are  worse  things  in  the  world  than  hard 
labour ;  '  withouten  that  would  come  a  heavier  bale ;'  and  so  there 
are  worse  things  for  the  negro  than  slavery  in  a  Christian  land. 
Archbishop  Hughes,  in  his  visit  to  Cuba,  asked  Africans  if  they 
wished  to  return  to  their  native  country ;  the  answer  was  always. 
No.  If  the  negro  is  happier  here  than  in  his  own  land,  can  wo 
Bay  that  slavery  is  an  evil  to  him  ?  Slaves  and  masters  do  not 
quarrel  with  their  circumstances ;  is  it  not  hard  that  the  stranger 
should  interfere  to  make  both  discontented  ? 

'  All  Christians  believe  that  the  affairs  of  this  world  are  directed 
by  God  for  wise  and  good  purposes.  The  arrival  of  the  negro  in 
America  makes  no  exception  to  that  rule — his  transportation  was 
a  rude  method  of  emigration,  the  only  practicable  one  in  his  case. 
Until  this  operation  ^as  interfered  with  and  made  piratical,  it  was 
not  attended  with  the  wretchedness  often  exhibited  by  the  emi- 
grant ship,  even  now,  notwithstanding  the  passenger  law.  What 
the  ultimate  end  of  slavery  may  bo  we  cannot  presume  to  guess ; 
but  we  can  see  much  good  already  resulting — ^good  to  the  negro 
in  his  improved  condition — ^good  to  the  country  whose  rich  fields 
he  has  made  productive  in  climates  at  first  unfit  for  the  white 
man — and  good  to  the  continent  of  Africa,  as  furnishing  the  only 
means  of  effectually  civilizing  its  people.  Whether  Mr.  Clarkson 
or  Lord  Carlisle  approve  of  the  mode  in  which  it  has  pleased 
Providence  to  bring  this  about,  the  result  will  probably  be 
the  same.  There  has  been  malignant  abuse  lavished  upon  the 
slave-holders  of  America  by  writers  in  this  country  and  in  Eng- 
land ;  they  consider  abuses  as  its  necessary  condition,  and  a  cruel 
master  its  fair  representative.  They  have  no  knowledge  of  the 
thing  abused ;  they  substitute  an  ideal  for  a  reality.     They  have 


208 


OBSERVATIONS  OK   SLAVKRT. 


m'lM 


W'"'}\ 


' ' '  & 


Bhown  as  little  regard  for  truth  and  common  sense,  as  we  should 
do  if  we  were  to  gather  up  all  the  atrocities  committed  in  Great 
Britain  by  husbands  and  wives,  parents  and  children,  masters  and 
servants,  and  denounce  these  several  relations  in  life  in  consequence 
of  their  abuses.     If  because  of  the  evils  incident  to  hireling  labour, 
because  there  are  heartless,  grinding  employers,  and  miserable, 
starved  labourers,  it  should  be  proposed  to  abolish  work  for  hire, 
it  would  be  quite  as  logical  as  the  argument  for  the  abolition  of 
slavery  because  there  are  suffering  among  slaves,  and  hard  hearts 
among  masters.     The  cruelty  or  suffering  is  no  more  a  necessary 
part  of  our  system  than  it  is  of  the  other.     To  attempt  to  establish 
the  hiring  plan  with  Africans  is  as  wise  as  to  endeavour  to  establish 
the  constitutional  government  of  England  in  Ashantee  or  Daho- 
mey.    Carlyle  says  that  the  world  will  not  permit  Guffy  to  lie  on 
his  back  and  eat  pumpkins  forever,  in  a  country  intended  by 
Providence  to  produce  coffee,  sugar,  and  spices  for  the  use  of  all 
mankind ;  and  that  he  must,  one  of  these  days,  resume  his  work 
for  Brother  Jonathan,  or  some  other  master.    The  blacks  in  Hayti 
have  only  changed  masters ;  they  are  the  slares  of  a  black  chief, 
as  in  Africa.     Their  pagan  mummeries  have  been  resumed ;  they 
are  engaged  in  petty  wars  instead  of  peaceful  labours.     The  Em- 
peror has  his  standing  army,  and*is  as  anxious  as  more  important 
potentates  to  employ  it  in  the  legitimate  business  of  cutting  throats. 
The  African  cannot  originate  a  civilization  of  his  own ;  from  the 
slave  civilized  and  instructed  by  slavery  can  any  regeneration  o{ 
the  African  continent  be  alone  looked  for.     We  must  believe  that 
Christianity  will  at  last  be  established  in  Africa,  and  carry  there 
the  improvement  which  always  attends  its  steps.     This  is  not  to  be 
accomplished  suddenly  by  any  compulsive  movement,  but  slowly, 
and  gradually — ^it  is  in  this  way  only  that  Providence  effects  his 
great  purposes.      The  black  race  always  perishes  if  placed,  as 
manumission  would  place  it,  in  competition  with  the  white.   There 
is  an  obvious  and  irremovable  dissimilarity  between  the  white  and 
black  race.     The  number  of  blacks  in  Canada  and  in  the  Northern 
States  is  only  kept  up  by  the  audition  of  freed  or  runaway  slaves. 
In  slavery  they  increase,  as  free  they  die  out ;  therefore  it  is  that 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  SLATERT. 


200 


the  blacks  in  America  cannot  be  made  free  for  their  own  sakoB^ 
even  if  it  were  desirable  they  should  be  for  their  masters.  Mann- 
misition  would  injure  both.' 

Alas  I  for  distant  Philanthropy  !  Whatever  griefs  and  vices 
may  be  discovered  in  the  Southern  States,  I  fear  their  prototypes 
are  to  be  discovered  in  London,  in  Paris,  and  even  in  New  York. 
Let  us  take  out  the  beam  from  our  own  eyes  before  we  make  our< 
selves  so  busy  with  the  motes  in  those  of  our  neighbour ;  and  in- 
stead of  abusing  each  other,  let  us  assist  in  bearing  one  another's 
burdens,  and  the  sorrows  and  faults  of  each  will  be  lessened  by 
division. 

Friday,  February  2. — Yesterday  I  saw  much  of  interest  in 

the  Museum,  had  a  pleasant  dinner  at  Mrs.  B 's,  and  went  to 

aa  evening  party  at  Mrs.  J.  de  R 's.     This  day  we  embark 

for  Savannah  and  Florida,  to  return  the  15th,  and  to  embark  for 
Cuba  the  19th.    No  time  for  more  at  present.     Goodbye. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


LETTER  XVm. 


ID,;I 


I  III 


i      : 


hi 
'ill 

III 


Savannab,  Georgia,  I 
February  4, 1866.    j 

My  dear  Friends, — 

The  Calhoun  steamer  left  Charleston  at  four  o'clock  yester- 
day, and  1;>rought  us  here  about  three  in  the  morning- — a  quiet 

and  bright  moonlight  voyage.     Mr.  H ,  to  whose  care  I  was 

recommended  by  my  friend  Mr.  R ,  of  Liverpool,  put  me  on 

board  the  vessel,  -.nd  invited  me  to  return  to  his  house  on  the  15th, 
to  take  the  Isabel  for  Cuba  on  the  19th.  My  last  letter  closed 
very  hastily,  as  I  had  only  just  time  to  seal  it  before  going  on 
board.     I  do  not  know  what  you  and  our  abolitionist  friend 

F may  think  of  my  slavery  conclusions.     You  will  imagine 

that  I  have  fallen  under  some  evil  influence ;  but  really  we  in 
England  know  as  little  about  the  domestic  arrangements  of  these 
Southerners  as  they  do  about  our  great  landholders  in  England 
.1  have  been  several  times  assured  that  the  present  Duchess  of 
Sutherland  depopulated  the  HigtL/jid'  lot  the  sake  of  raisi::^' 
sheep  there.  Tijey  confuse  date;  ^r;"  :  "3,  and  .oufound  the 
present  Duchess  with  the  old  CoiUiWisb  Duchess,  whose  energetic 
plans  aided  the  starving  Celts  she  caused  to  emigrate,  and  that 
outlay  of  money  may  perhaps  now  tend  towards  the  improvement 
of  the  estates  of  the  present  Duke.  I  fell  in  with  a  personification 
of '  Rebecca '  on  board  the  Calhoun  steamer.  I  was  introduced 
'vhen  we  embarked,  and  I  felt  myself  attracted  by  her  beautiful, 
melanch:*?}  face.  When  we  got  acquainted,  she  told  me  this  sin- 
gular story : — At  thirteen,  she  had  run  away  from  doting  friends 


SAVANNAH. 


211 


with  her  present  husiand,  who,  buiug a  Christian,  was  nut  accept- 
able to  them,  and  they  refused  forgiventss.  Some  years  after, 
when  she  was  on  a  steamer  with  her  husband  and  a  young  babe, 
she  was  induced  to  sing  '  Sweet  Home '  on  deck,  in  the  dark.  A 
voice  not  far  off  said,  in  a  beseeching  way,  '  Again,  lady — pray 
»gain.'  A  vague  feeling  crossed  her  that  its  tone  was  familiar, 
till  she  hesitated  to  obey  the  request,  when  a  friend  near  ex- 
ilaimed,  *  Yes,  do ;  it  may  be  that  the  stranger  is  separated  from 
those  he  loves.'  She  repeated  the  air,  and  no  more  was  said. 
The  next  morning  she  saw  her  father  in  the  vessel.  She  darted 
up  towards  him,  but  he  turned  his  back  upon  her ;  and  her  courage 
failing  her,  she  attempted  no  other  appeal.  Just  after  this  he 
stopped  the  black  nurse  carrying  her  infant,  took  1  imin  his  arms, 
kissed  his  forehead,  and  said  to  a  gentleman  standing  near, '  This 
is  my  grandson ;' yet  he  forgave  not;  and  some  raonths  after- 
wards he  died  without  asking  to  see  his  daughter  or  her  child 
again.  She  is  now  a  fifteen  years'  happy  wife,  with  eight  children, 
and  has  at  last  been  invited  to  visit  her  former  home  alone.  Her 
husband  insisted  upon  her  accepting  this  invitation,  though  it  ex- 
cluded him,  and  to-morrow  she  will  be  received  by  slowly-forgiv. 
ing  relations.     I  could  not  but  sympathize  with  her  feelings. 

Savannah  seems  a  large  town,  with  many  pleasant  squares,  in 
one  of  which  this  (Pulaski)  hotel  is  situated.  It  is  so  called  in 
memory  of  a  fine  steamer  of  that  name,  which,  before  boilers  were 
well  regulated,  blew  up  and  engulfed  members  of  almost  all  the 
principal  families  in  this  place.  One  family,  consisting  of  thir- 
teen, lost  eleven  individuals;  only  the  father  and  one  inftnt  were 
left  behind.  In  all  the  States  of  the  Union  I  find  complaints  of 
poverty  and  public  debt ;  so  that  while  the  Central  Government 
of  Washington  boasts  of  a  superabundance  of  money,  the  Empire 
as  a  whole  is  little  less  involved  than  Great  Britain.  I  think 
this  fact  is  not  understood  in  Europe ;  and  what  is  more  while 
the  national  debt  seems  not  to  clog  prosperity  in  England,  pover- 
ty makes  itself  very  evident  among  the  governments  of  the  Fed- 
eral States.  Matters  of  public  utility  are  at  a  standstill  in  their 
chief  cities.    It  is  very  easy  for  President  and  Congress  to  have 


i  fH 


m 


m   s 


212 


*  SLAVE.* 


a  surplus,  as  long  as  the  Union  remains  at  peace :  taxes  flow  in, 
and  there  are  few  out-goings.  In  general,  the  local  capitals  are 
ill-paved,  indiflferently  drained,  and  poorly  lighted,  and  the  public 
buildings  are  few  and  baulj  kept. 

The  air  seems  warmer  here  than  at  Charleston ;  but  I  caught 
cold  on  board  the  steamer,  which  confines  me  to  the  house  for  to- 
day, and  not  having  taken  off  my  clothes  last  night,  I  do  not  feel 
very  excursive.  The  Bishop  of  Georgia  (Elliott),  with  his  lady 
and  a  gentleman  and  some  ladies  I  knew  in  the  North,  have  called 
upon  me. 

I  find  that  the  term  '  Slave '  is  rarely  made  use  of  in  the 
South.     The  blacks  are  called  *  our  servants,'  or  more  commonly 

*  our  people.'  We  must  remember  that  when  slaves  are  to  be 
disposed  of,  people  in  this  country  do  not  consider  they  are 
literally  buying  men,  but  services,  and  what  we  hear  of,  are  the 
abuses  not  the  laws  of  the  system.  Should  a  master  ill-treat  a 
slave,  the  law  protects  the  latter ;  and  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
cases  of  such  treatment  are  rare.  If  a  slave  violates  the  law,  a 
judge  sends  to  his  master  and  says.  This  is  your  servant ;  if  you  do 
not  punish  him,  I  must.  Of  course,  the  culprit  much  prefers  to  be 
corrected  by  his  own  master,  by  whom  all  extenuating  circumstances 
are  understood  and  allowed  for ;  and  he  is  usually  left  in  his  hands. 

As  I  have  said  before,  the  blacks  are  children  of  larger 
growth.  They  are  tricky,  idle,  and  dirty.  An  excellent  English 
housekeeper,  who  has  the  management  of  this  house,  tells  rae  that 
it  is  impossible  for  them  to  get  on  with  the  motives  that  would 
influence  whites.  She  is  very  averse  to  reporting  any  of  the 
darkies  as  requiring  correction  {alias  a  whipping) ;  but  without 
the  power  of  doing  so,  they  would  be  utterly  unmanageable.  As 
it  is,  one  white  servant  would  do  the  work  of  three  blacks. 

*  Tom,'  perhaps,  has  no  other  vocation  than  to  light  fires.  I  have 
been  amused  to  watch  the  slow  round-about  way  in  which  he 
performs  the  operation,  never  having  all  he  wants  at  hand.  This 
morning  he  brought  no  light ;  so  before  preparing  to  light  the 
fire  he  takes  my  wax  candle,  lights  it,  and  lets  it  stand  burning 
uselessly.     Then,  after  lighting  the  fire,  he  keeps  the  candle 


NEGRO  CHARAOTER. 


213 


burning  for  half  an  hour  in  broad  daylight,  while  he  goes  through 
various  evolutions  about  the  cinders  and  the  dust,  till  he  has 
settled  it  all  to  his  satisfaction :  and  it  is  of  no  use  to  suggest  any 
quicker  mode  of  proceeding.  I  must  repeat,  over  and  over  again, 
our  ideas  of  negro  character,  and  its  capabilities,  are  little 
grounded  upon  truth. 

We  have  cast  aside  the  evidence  of  people  who,  with  clear 
unbiassed  judgment,  have  watched  the  African  from  his  cradle  to 
Lis  grave,  and  taken  the  opinion  and  the  advice  of  well-intentioned 
but  hot-headed  zealots,  until  we  have  damaged  the  cause  of  civil- 
ization, checked  the  progress  of  individuals  of  the  black  race,  and 
at  the  same  time  done  mischief  to  ourselves,  and  to  fine  islands 
and  colonies  which  are  now  again  tending  towards  barbarism. 
People  of  the  Southern  States  might  not  be  considered  unpreju- 
diced witnesses  of  the  present  condition  and  prospects  of  our 
West  Indian  Islands;  but  I  know  from  other  sources,  and  I 
appeal  to  Englishmen  for  the  truth  of  my  information.  Barba- 
does  has  already  much  deteriorated,  and  unless  the  power  of 
landed  acquisition  by  negroes  receive  some  legal  check  (owing  to 
the  small  disbursements  necessary  to  their  existence,  and  their 
giving  no  credit,  with  a  deep  laid  intention  of  getting  rid  of  white 
proprietors),  the  blacks  will  slowly  but  certainly  gain  possession 
of  the  island.  The  same  process  will  follow  in  others ;  and  when 
too  late,  the  British  nation  will  come  to  a  conviction  that  it 
must  either  re-conquer  its  West  Indian  Islands,  or  permit  them 
to  amalgamate  with  the  United  States,  which  by  that  time  will 
be  too  wise  to  permit  them  to  remain  free  black  republics.  There 
is  no  doubt  the  blacks  are  susceptible  of  education  and  improve- 
ment, to  a  certain  extent,  under  white  influence.  The  darkies  of 
Baltimore  and  Virginia  are  a  shade  higher  in  the  scale  of  im- 
provement than  those  of  Georgia,  from  being  more  in  approxima- 
tion with  whites  in  a  mass;  but  you  never  can  change  the 
Ethiopian  character,  or  wash  white  his  skin.  '  The  pig  will 
never  irrow  into  the  lion.'  Undfl>*  cfonA  direction,  it  is  a  liffht- 
hearted,  merry,  unreflecting  race,  excitable  and  impulsive ;  but 
it  has  a  sense  of  justice,  and  can  be  attached,  and  be  made  an 


214 


MISTAKE   OF   ENGLISH   PHILAKTHK0FI8TS 


'ii 


honest,  usefdl,  and  highly  respectable  servant,  by  judicious  inan^ 
agement  and  early  training.  A  well-taught  negro  coachman 
drives  admirably.  They  are  apt  at  any  mechanical  employment. 
Some  of  them  are  very  orderly,  but  put  them  out  of  a  track  to 
which  they  have  been  accustomed,  and  they  rapidly  lose  them- 
selves. A  lady  here  has  taken  great  pains  with  a  negro  boy 
born  in  her  family.  I  was  amused  to  see  him  standing  behind 
her  chair,  with  a  tray  under  his  arm,  like  a  little  black  statue. 
He  never  forgets  to  come  at  a  particular  hour  for  her  orders ; 
but  the  teaching  him  to  read  is  no  small  undertaking.  He  goes 
on  the  box  of  the  carriage,  and  well  performs  any  accustomed 
duty ;  but  if  you  ask  him  to  take  a  knife  and  dig  up  a  plant,  Le 
looks  utterly  bewildered. 

What  are  we  doing  ?    Instead  of  bringing  away  the  African 
race,  to  return  them  in  a  generation  or  two,  educated  for  the  im- 
provement and  enlightenment  of  Africa,  are  we  not  re-barbarizing 
the  Christian  world  by  giving  fair  fields  back  again  into  savage 
hands  ?    Negro  Christians  left  to  their  own  guidance  fall  sooner 
or  later  again  into  pagan  habits.    Inquire  of  the  British  consuls, 
ask  the  admirably  devoted  clergy  and  bishops  of  this  land ;  tako 
the  convictions  of  any  persons  of  experience  and  judgment  who 
have  lived  among  blacks.     No  discrepancies  will  be  found  in  such 
opinions ;  but  our  people  and  our  Governments  of  the  last  forty 
years  have  been  led  away  by  pre-conceived  notions ;  they  have 
listened   only  to  well-intentioned,   but   weak  religionists;    and 
under  a  mistaken  impression  that  they  promoted  freedom  and 
Christianity,  have  they  been  giving  encouragement  to  ultimate 
bondage  and  paganism.    It  appears  that  in  this  world  God  pun- 
ishes weakness  as  well  as  wickedness.     If  we  have  intended  vir- 
tuously as  a  nation,  have  we  not  acted  weakly  ?    Instead  of  being 
surprised  that  these  slave  proprietors  feel  themselves  insulted  and 
aggrieved  by  the  manner  in  which  English  philanthropists  have 
vilified  and  abused  them,  I  am  only  astonished  at  the  patience 
and  gentleness  with  which  they  have  endured   our  calumnies. 
They  are  just  and  kind  towards  us  in  spite  of  our  faults,  and  for 
the  sake  of  good  intention,  they  forgive.    It  is  said  the  '  Injurer 


BUONAVENTURA  CEMETERY. 


215 


never  forgives ; '  let  us  beware  how  we  realize  that  adage.  Among 
a  large  class  in  the  North  I  found  a  jealous  and  unkind  spirit  to- 
wards the  old  country ;  the  reverse  of  this  may  be  said  of  the 
South.  I  have  observed  a  noble,  generous,  gentlemanly  spirit  in 
this  part  of  the  Union ;  I  feel  assured  that  if  the  Southern  pro- 
prietors, as  a  class,  had  found  reason  to  believe  that  the  institu- 
tion of  Slavery  was  prejudicial  either  to  the  Christian  or  temporal 
interests  of  the  blacks,  they  have  chivalry  enough  in  their  com- 
position to  have  cast  aside  mere  motives  of  private  interest ;  but 
they  knew,  and  we  did  not  know — that  was  the  difference.  They 
have  a  right  to  accuse  us  of  ignorance  and  cor.ceit,  and  they  are 
more  forbearing  than  we  had  any  claim  to  expect.  I  will  try  not 
agam  to  recur  to  this  subject  till  I  get  to  Cuba,  but  it  meets  me 
60  at  every  turn  here,  it  is  difficult  to  refrain. 

Savannah,  February  6. — Yesterday,  I  had  a  pleasant  break- 
fast with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  H ,  to  meet  Dr.  Elliott,  as  amiable 

and  excellent  as  his  friend  and  brother  of  Pennsylvania.  He  re- 
mained among  his  flock  during  the  yellow  fever,  or  rather  plague, 
of  the  last  autumn,  the  consoler  and  the  nurse  of  old  and  young, 
and  he  escaped  that  pestilen'^e  all  through  a  diocese  as  large  as 
Great  Britain.  He  is  sincirely  loved  and  truly  valued,  and 
amidst  his  onerous  duties  he  neither  scorns  nor  neglects  the  study 
of  nature. 

After  breakfast.  Miss  T took  me  a  delightful  drive  to  the 

Cemetery  of  Buenaventura.  We  went  part  of  the  way  through  a 
forest,  even  now  full  of  interest  for  the  eye  of  a  botanist.  Rare 
pines,  magnolias,  Gelucinum  sempervirens  (here  called  Jessa- 
mine), fan  palms,  cactuses,  live  oaks,  and  palmetto  trees,  not,  as 
in  the  Northern  forests,  set  like  pins  in  a  pincushion,  but  suffi- 
ciently apart  to  allow  for  increasing  size,  with  airy  glades  and  a 
lovely  undergrowth. 

Buonaventura  once  belonged  to  a  gentleman  of  old  family 
here ;  he  planted  five  avenues  of  live  oaks  verging  to  a  centre, 
where  stood  his  residence.  That  house  was  burned  down ;  a  de- 
creased income  obliged  the  family  to  part  with  their  beautiful 
place,  and  it  was  bought  by  speculators,  who  are  realizing  large 


216 


A  COLLISION. 


i-:  '« 


ti  .■:; 


sums  by  turning  it  into  a  cemetery ;  it  is  a  most  appropriate  spot 
for  the  purpose.  The  live  oaks  form  arches  equal  to  those  of 
cathedrals ;  while  the  Tillandsia,  weeping  from  every  branch  of 
every  tree,  unartificially  sympathizes  with  mourners,  and  adds 
solemnity  to  the  whole  scene.  Two  palmettos  standing  near  tho 
entrance  to  the  old  house  are  magnificent  specimens  of  that  noble 
tree.  I  obtained  some  young  seedlings  from  them,  which  I  hope  to 
carry  safely  across  the  Atlantic.  We  came  home  by  a  rice  plan- 
tation and  negro  village,  with  its  neat  and  comfortable  houses; 
but  in  their  interiors  the  people  evince  no  ideas  of  tidiness  or  com- 
fort. My  negro  woman  at  Sandwich  had  the  only  neat  room  I 
have  as  yet  seen  among  them.  I  was  assured  by  everyone  on  Sat- 
urday, that  the  Seminole  steamer  for  Palatka  would  start  at  ten 
o'clock  this  morning;  now  I  am  told  not  till  four  in  the  after- 
noon. I  hope  this  afternoon  start  will  not  turn  out  to  be  mid- 
night, as  at  Detroit. 

DarieUy  February  9. — Some  days  of  adventure.  It  was  mid- 
night before  the  Seminole  left  Savannah  for  Palatka,  owing  to  a 
necessity  for  repairs  which  the  captain  could  not  get  executed— 
such  is  the  slowness  of  negro  work-people ;  but  a  brilliant  moon 
made  everything  nearly  as  visible  as  day.  I  was  tired,  and  af- 
ter a  while  got  into  my  berth  without  undressing — a  precaution  I 
had  every  reason  to  be  glad  of;  for,  about  two-o'clock  I  was 
awakened  by  a  terrible  crash  of  timber  on  my  side  the  vessel, 
only  a  few  yards  to  the  left  of  my  head.  I  was  sure  a  collision 
had  occurred,  and  rushed  out  to  ascertain  whether  the  water  was 
likely  to  rush  in,  the  Arctic  strongly  in  my  imagination.  I  saw 
that  a  schooner  had  run  directly  into  the  paddle-box,  just  beyond 
my  berth,  and  completely  smashed  that  wheel.  The  man  at  the 
helm  of  the  intruding  vessel  must  have  been  asleep ;  suddenly 
awakened  by  the  noise  of  our  steamer,  he  steered  his  boat  the 
wrong  way,  and  before  our  pilot  could  do  anything,  she  was 
plump  into  us.  Had  he  only  continued  the  course  he  was  on, 
when  asleep,  we  should  have  passed  without  damage ;  as  it  was,  be 
broke  his  own  bowsprit  straight  off,  spraiig  his  foremast,  and 
crippled  us  thoroughly;  so  that  ^11  our  captain  could  do  was 


RETUnW   TO   SAVANNAH. 


217 


iiiB  loremast,  aou 
lain  could  do  was 


to  cast  anchor  (fortunately  within  the  bar  of  the  Savannah 
River),  and  send  off  a  boat  instantly,  eighteen  miles  to  the  town, 
for  relief. 

A  tedious  time  wo  had  of  it  till  five  o'clock,  Wednesday, 
when  a  steamer  came  down,  attached  herself  to  our  well  side,  and 
took  the  poor  Seminole  safely  back  to  the  wharf,  from  which  she 
had  started  the  day  before.  It  was  no  use  to  give  way  to  terror 
about  proceeding  in  consequence  of  the  singular  accident  which 
bad  occurred ;  I  convinced  myself  we  were  not  likely  to  meet 
vrlth  anything  unpleasant  again  immediately ;  and,  after  all,  feel- 
ings  of  thankfulness  were  those  uppermost  in  my  mind,  that  we 
bad  passed  such  a  danger  unscathed.  I  decided  to  set  forth  again 
by  tlie  St.  John  steamer,  at  eight  o'clock  next  morning.     Poor 

R could  not  get  over  the  fright ;  and  if  there  had  been  any 

back  door  to  have  run  out  of,  for  the  first  time  I  suspect  sLe 
was  almost  inclined  to  desert ;  however,  with  a  melancholy  ex- 
pression, she  became  resigned,  and  we  returned  to  the  Pulaski 
Hotel  to  sleep ;  for  though  Captain  PostoU  was  very  kind,  and 
offered  us  our  berths  on  board,  we  were  too  much  tired  and  ex- 
bausted  not  to  seek  quiet  beds  on  shore.  As  in  most  bad  cases 
there  is  compensation,  so  here  good  came  out  of  evil.  A  common 
misfortune  made  me  well  acquainted  with  two  agreeable  and  su- 
perior men.  President  Wheeler,  of  Burlington  College,  and  Dr. 
Turner,  of  Savannah.  They  took  charge  of  us  as  if  we  had 
been  their  sisters ;  smoothed  every  difficulty,  and  as  ll  turned  out, 
there  being  no  hotel  or  place  of  reception  at  Darien,  if  we  had 
succeeded  in  landing  there  the  first  night,  we  should  have  been 
thrown  into  an  awkward  situation.  Now,  Dr.  Turner  went  on 
shore  there  to  prepare  accommodations ;  and  he  and  the  Professor 
took  us  to  the  house  of  a  hospitable  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith,  who 
gave  us  a  comfortable  bed  in  their  nursery,  evidently  putting 
tbemsclves  to  some  temporary  inconvenience  to  take  in  the  stran- 
gers. This  place,  Darien,  is  where  Gen.  Oglethorpe  entrenched 
himself  during  the  war ;  it  is  singular  in  appearance,  and  must 
be  pretty  in  summer.  Now,  from  the  absence  of  all  bright  green, 
and  the  grey  tinge  thrown  over  vegetation  by  the  Tillandsia,  it 
10 


218 


PLAKTATIOn. 


/■:(! 


has  a  very  original  look.    The  houses  aro  mostly  scattered,  built 
of  a  kind  of  oyster-shell  compost,  the  usual  material  hereabouts ; 
these  oysters  and  mussels  are  thrown  up  in  banks  upon  the  shores 
of  the  Walaki  (St.  John's)  Biver,  and  the  brackish  lakes,  which 
here  form  a  chain,  sometimes  communicating  with  the  sea,  some- 
times joining  the  rivers,  all  the  way  from  Savannah,  upon  thii 
Georgian  coast.     It  is  a  singular  navigation;  one  moment  we 
stole  along  between  swamps  of  high  grass,  where  it  was  not  possi- 
ble for  the  steamer  to  get  through  the  narrow  bends  except  by 
the  assistance  of  a  towing-boat ;  then  we  went  out  into  the  sea ; 
then  we  came  back  into  a  wide  river,  but  so  shallow  that  we  were 
frequently  sticking  fast  in  the  mud ;  and  at  last,  at  night,  wo 
reached  Darien.     Fortunately  a  four-oared  canoe-like  boat,  of 
Mr.  Hamilton  Cooper's,  had  come  down  from  his  plantation  on 
the  Altamaha,  upon  some  business.     Dr.  Turner  insured  our  be- 
ing taken  up  with  him ;  we  met  Mr.  Cooper  also  by  accident, 
and  after  a  very  pleasant  row  of  about  five  miles,  he  brought  us 
to  his  English-like  house  (as  respects  the  interior)  and  interesting 
home^  my  first  re&Vlpnt  introduction  to  plantation  life.     A  happy 
attached  negro  population  surrounds  this  abode;  I  never  saw 
servants  in  any  old  English  family  more  comfortable,  or  more 
devoted;  it  is  quite  a  relief  to  see  anything  so  patriarchal,  after 
the  apparently  uncomfortable  relations  of  masters  and  servants  in 
the  Northern  States.     I  should  much  prefer  being  a  *  slave '  here, 
to  a  grumbling  saucy  *  help '  there ;  but  everyone  to  their  tastes. 
We  left  the  river  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  house,  and 
came  up  a  narrow  canal,  between  rice  plantations,  almost  to  the 
door ;  we  passed  two  or  three  large  flat  boats,  laden  with  rice ; 
and  Hr.  Cooper  took  me  to  see  the  threshing  machine  which 
was  at  work  in  a  barn ;  the  women  putting  in  the  rice  just  as  we 
do  our  grain;   they  were  more  comfortably  dressed  than  our 
peasantry,  and  looked  happier ;  otherwise  (except  the  complex- 
ions) the  scene  was  much  of  the  same  kind  as  that  at  a  threshing* 
barn  in  England.    It  is  in  vain  to  intend  keeping  silence  upon 
the  one  thought  that  must  be  uppermost  in  a  mind  accustomed 
from  childhood  to  erroneous  views  upon  the  Slavery  question; 


THE   AFRICAN   RACE. 


219 


y  scattered,  built 
erial  hereabouts ; 
3  upon  the  shores 
iish  lakes,  which 
th  the  sea,  some- 
annah,  upon  thii 

one  moment  we 

it  was  not  possi- 
bends  except  by 
3ut  into  the  sea; 
low  that  we  were 
ast,  at  night,  we 
loe-like  boat,  of 
lis  plantation  on 

insured  our  be- 
also  by  accident, 
s,  he  brought  us 
')  and  interesting 
n  life.  A  happy 
le;  I  never  saw 
ibrtable,  or  more 
patriarchal,  after 
3  and  servants  in 
ig  a '  slave '  here, 
le  to  their  tastes, 
i  the  house,  and 
IS,  almost  to  the 
laden  with  rice ; 

machine  which 
)  rice  just  as  we 
ressed  than  our 
pt  the  complez- 
it  at  a  threshing* 
ing  silence  upon 
lind  accustomed 
iavery  question; 


and  I  may  as  well  write  on.  I  now  see  the  great  error  we  have 
committed  is  in  assuming  that  the  African  race  is  equal  in  capa- 
ity  with  the  European ;  and  that  under  similar  circumstances  it  is 
capable  of  equal  moral  and  intellectual  culture. 

The  history  of  Egypt,  of  Rome,  of  the  English,  French,  and 
Spanish  Colonies,  and  the  experience  of  American  slavery,  prove 
the  reverse.  No  separate  African  civilization  has  sprung  up 
from  centuries  of  contact.  St.  Domingo  has  relapsed  into  bar- 
barism, except  in  the  case  of  some  of  the  towns.  The  other 
emancipated  colonies,  not  excepting  Jamaica,  are  retrograding 
fast  in  the  face  of  a  white  population,  and  notwithstanding  Go- 
vernment influence:  in  the  United  States,  spite  of  more  than 
a  hundred  years  of  white  association,  though  they  have  been 
made  rather  superior  to  their  brethren  in  Africa,  in  intellect  and 
moral  character,  they  remain,  and  ever  will  remain,  inferior  to 
the  whites.  I  believe,  and  must  not  hesitate  to  confess  my  be- 
lief, the  negro  race  is  incapable  of  self-government ;  and  I  sus- 
pect its  present  condition  in  the  United  States  is  practically  the 
best  that  the  character  of  the  negroes  admits  of.  It  is  for  their  hap- 
pmess  and  interest  to  remain  in  tutelage — at  any  rate  for  two  or 
three  generations.  Is  there  any  part  of  Africa,  the  West  Indies, 
or  South  America,  where  three  millions  of  negroes  are  to  be  found 
as  comfortable,  intelligent,  and  religious,  or  as  happy,  as  in  the 
Southern  States  ?  The  most  practical  mode  of  improving  a  semi- 
barbarous  race  is  to  place  it  in  the  proportion  of  one  to  two  in  the 
midst  of  a  civilized  people.  The  system  of  slavery  has  been 
blamed  for  the  ignorance  and  vices  of  the  Africans :  are  they  less 
ignorant  or  more  virtuous  where  slavery  does  not  exist  ?  It  has 
pleased  Providence  to  make  them  barbarian,  and  as  barbarian 
they  must  be  governed,  however  Christian  may  be  the  principles 
and  feelings  of  their  masters.  One  of  the  mistakes  we  make  is  to 
attribute  to  a  black  the  ideas  and  refined  feelings  of  a  white,  and 
then  we  imagine  his  sufferings  under  circumstances  of  comparative 
degradation ;  but  happily  what  would  be  intolerable  to  the  refined 
and  cultivated  is  easily  borne  by  the  obtuse  and  ignorant.  '  God 
tempers  the  wind  to  the  shorn  lamb.'     That  evil  must  alwavs  ox- 


220 


DEBTS  OF  THB  STATES. 


M: 


1st  under  any  system  of  almost  irresponsible  power  is  certain ;  and 
there  are,  of  course,  painful  exceptions  to  the  generally  kind,  pa- 
rental, and  just  rule  of  Southern  planters;  but  these  are  the  ex- 
ceptions. The  duty  of  Slave  States  and  slave-owners  is,  by  law 
and  practice,  to  limit  arbitrary  power.  The  condition  of  the  race 
at  present  admits  of  no  higher  governiaent,  and  the  duty  of  all 
real  philanthropists  is  to  aid  and  support  the  masters  in  their  cf> 
forts  to  ameliorate  painful  circumstances,  by  kind,  liberal,  and 
temperate  suggestions  of  such  correction  as  the  system  will  admit 
of.  As  the  Abolitionist  is  powerless,  he  should  feel  that  'moral 
suasion '  is  his  only  means  of  operating.  If  he  means  well  by  the 
elave,  he  will  not  create  angry  feelings  in  the  master  by  inflam- 
matory appeals  to  his  people.  I  have  heard  individuals  lauded 
for  giving  freedom  to  their  slaves ;  my  observations  lead  me  to 
believe  that  such  people  have  c:  )y  cast  off  an  onerous  and  painful 
responsibility.  One  of  the  most  intelligent  and  independent  black 
men  I  ever  heard  of,  born  free  in  Canada,  said,  '  I  know  enough 
to  know  that  my  race  is  not  either  happier  or  better  for  what  is 
called  freedon.,  I  would  myself  rather  have  been  born  a  slave  I' 
He  was  asked  why  he  did  not  go  to  Liberia.  '  No,'  he  said,  'Re- 
publics are  quite  unfit  for  us — I  will  have  nothing  to  do  with 
them.' 

Hopetorij  Fbbruary  12. — I  went  yesterday  through  a  forest 
of  Pinus  palustris  to  a  spot  where  it  is  Mr.  Cooper's  intention 
to  build  a  house  to  be  called  Altama.  It  will  be  beautifully 
situated  on  the  edge  of  a  pine  barren,  a  sloping  thicket  of  live 
oaks,  magnolias,  and  fan  palms,  on  one  side,  ending  in  rice  plan- 
tations, with  distant  forest  and  river  views  extending  towards 
Darien.  This  place  was  once  the  site  of  an  Indian  village,  and  I 
picked  up  fragments  of  their  pottery.  But  there  are  now  none 
of  the  Aborigines  left  in  the  Southern  States.  General  Jackson 
removed  all  westward.  I  have  had  some  conversation  with  Mr. 
Hamvkon  Cooper  about  the  monetary  affairs  of  the  States.  He 
says  m,  ■  remarks  respecting  the  local  debts  are  just,  as  respects  a 
few  of  the  States  and  cities,  but  that  generally  they  are  trifling 
vhen  compared  with  their  means  and  resources.    In  1853,  the 


AN  TrCWAVOTmABLE  CONTRAST. 


221 


aggregate  State  debt  was  about  fifty  millions  sterling — that  of 
Georgia  sixty-three  thousand.  Pennsylvania  is  the  most  in- 
debted ;  but  there  the  debt  is  not  more  than  ten  per  cent,  on  the 
property  of  the  State.  Complaints  of  poverty  at  present  are 
temporary,  the  result  of  reckless  speculation.  Evidences  of  wealth 
and  prosperity  in  America  must  be  sought  for  among  the  masses, 
not  in  public  works  of  governmental  origin ;  and  the  absence 
of  appearance  in  State  capitals  must  not  be  mistaken  for  State 
poverty.  Money  is  laid  out ;  but  it  is  expended  in  magnificent 
hotels,  in  private  residences,  churches,  schools,  banks,  railroads,  &c. 
&c.,  in  all  objects  ministering  to  individual  enjoyment  and  to 
reproductive  purposes.  Corporate  associations  do  all  those  things 
required  for  public  convenience  which  are  beyond  individual 
ability,  but  public  buildings  and  public  works  are  generally  put 
aside,  or  made  a  secondary  consideration.  I  forgot  to  mention 
that  there  are  from  three  to  four  hundred  negroes  on  this  estate. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooper  have  no  white  servants ;  their  family  con- 
sists of  six  sons  and  two  daughters.  I  should  not  like  to  inhabit 
a  lonely  part  of  Ireland,  or  even  Scotland,  surrounded  only  by 
three  hundred  Celts.  I  believe  there  is  not  a  soldier  or  police- 
man nearer  than  Savannah,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles.  Surely 
this  speaks  volumes  for  the  contentment  of  the  slave  population. 
When  I  think  of  the  misery  and  barbarism  of  the  peasantry  of 
Kintail,  and  other  parts  of  Scotland  (putting  aside  that  of  Ire- 
land), and  look  at  the  people  here,  it  is  hardly  possible  not  to 
blush  at  the  recollection  of  all  the  hard  words  I  have  heard  ap- 
plied to  the  slave-holder  of  the  South.  Why,  the  very  pigsties 
of  the  negroes  are  better  than  some  Celtic  hovels  I  have  seen. 
Mr.  Cooper  is  under  some  difiiculty  about  a  negro  family  he  took 
in  trust  to  manumit  from  the  produce  of  their  own  labor.  The 
poor  people  are  averse  to  being  freed,  and  especially  to  being  sent 
to  Africa.  It  cei'tainly  seems  a  cruelty  to  force  them  to  accept 
that  which  they  consider  no  boon.  I  believe  this  is  a  dilemma  by 
no  means  rare, 

February  13. — Actually  another  white  frost ;  every  one  says 
luch  cold  is  uncommon ;  I  find  the  weather  now,  much  like  ouib 


222 


ITKORO   mSOLENOE. 


at  this  time  of  year,  and  I  expect  the  Chamserops  serralata,  and 
other  plants  which  do  not  seem  affected  by  the  cold  we  have  here 
now,  will  be  quite  hardy  in  the  "West  of  England.  The  red  maple 
is  in  bloom  ;  I  have  not  ascertained  the  species  yet,  but  it  is  quite 
new  to  me,  and  a  very  showy,  elegant  thing.  Upon  looking  to 
Elliot's  Botany  of  Sotdh  Carolina  and  Georgia,  I  find  this  tree 
is  Acer  rubra ;  it  has  a  smooth,  clouded  bark,  and  in  damp,  rich 
soils  becomes  a  large  tree ;  but  near  the  sea,  where  salt  forms  a 
component  part  of  the  soil,  it  dwindles  into  a  small  shrub.  I 
have  been  wandering  about  among  the  negro  dwellings,  seeing  the 
ugly  babes  and  still  uglier  old  people ;  only  rne  individual  in  bed 
in  the  hospital,  and  five  or  six  in  the  male  aud  female  wards, 
cowering  round  the  fires.  Mr.  Cooper  tells  me  he  once  tried  the 
capabilities  of  some  of  the  most  active  among  his  people,  by  giv* 
ing  them  the  cultivation  of  fifty  acres  for  themselves ;  the  first 
season,  under  direction,  the  plantation  cleared  fifteen  hundred 
dollars,  which  he  took  care  to  give  them  in  silver,  hoping  that 
would  excite  their  industry;  thz  next  year,  left  to  their  own  man- 
agement, the  crop  lessened  one  half;  and  the  third  season  they 
let  the  land  run  to  waste,  so  that  it  was  useless  to  permit  them  to 
retain  it.  Yet  these  very  same  people  will  labour  readily  and 
pleasantly  under  good  superintendence. 

In  warm  weather  alligators  are  frequently  seen,  but  now  they 
remain  torpid  in  their  watery  or  muddy  dens.  They  are  not  able 
to  pursue  and  catch  live  creatures  on  shore,  although  they  like  to 
bask  in  the  sun ;  but  if  a  young  negro  child,  a  calf,  or  a  pig,  lies 
down  carelessly  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  these  American  croco- 
diles use  their  tails  to  whisk  such  prey  down  where  they  can 
devour  it  at  their  leisure.  A  Southern  lady  told  me  that  her 
son  once  brought  home  some  alligator's  eggs.  She  placed  them 
upon  a  table ;  forty-eight  hours  afterwards,  upon  hearing  a  black 
girl  scream,  her  mistress  rushed  down  stairs :  the  warmth  of  the 
parlour  had  hatched  three  young  alligators,  two  were  running 
about  the  room,  a  third  had  been  thrown  out  of  the  window,  and 
in  the  fright  of  the  moment,  all  were  killed,  to  the  grief  of  the 
boy,  who  would  gladly  have  made  them  pots. 


ALLI0AT0E8. 


223 


I  have  been  out  to  sketcli  the  house  and  plantation ;  the  air 
is  warm  and  genial — ^nothing  to  remind  us  of  this  morning's  frost. 

Yours  aflfectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


■V  'h 


<^ 


>    ^n?»  ^    ^i?»  t"* 


^ct^Spt'^S" 


¥ 


>  ^^^^>jf^^)^:^-<>  ^^ 


-!?*   tk 


'-^   tk 


'l^i   1^ 


-^   1^ 


t?- 


■-^.o  o 


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1^   ^'^  tk 


■"^     T5N 


LET-ER  XIX. 

HoFKTOir.  Altamaiia  Ritzb,  GsoKniA,   ) 
WednMdat/,  February  14, 1S5S.        ) 

My  dear  Friewds, — 

I  hope  my  last  letter  arrived  safely.  Mr.  Cooper  sent 
down  to  Darien  with  it,  so  there  is  a  good  margin  of  time  hcfore 
the  mail  is  closed  for  the  24th  instant.  After  the  sharp  white 
frost  of  Monday,  we  had  rain  yesterday,  and  the  folks  here  hope 
winter  has  at  last  taken  his  departure ;  there  is  a  bright  sun  this 
morning,  and  I  expect  to  see  vegetation  advance  rapidly,  when 
once  it  fairly  starts  for  the  summer.  Only  six  dajs  will  be  left 
for  my  Florida  tour,  and  yet  if  I  had  been  able  to  proceed  sooner, 
the  weather  would  not  have  been  favourable.  I  may  get  to  Palat- 
ka,  Friday  evening ;  in  the  next  three  days  the  orange-groves  and 
Silver  Springs  must  be  accomplished,  to  leave  one  clear  day  for 
St.  Augustine,  where  I  should  like  to  spend  a  week ;  but  we 
must  return  to  Savannah,  so  as  to  take  the  steamer  which  leaves 
for  Charleston,  the  24th.  A  glimpse  of  Florida  is  better  than 
not  seeing  it  at  all ;  with  that  I  must  be  content.  I  cannot  find 
myself  dull  with  this  pleasant  family ;  yesterday  we  did  all  sorts 
of  things,  just  as  I  should  have  done  among  my  own  belongings 
in  England.  We  cooked,  and  drew,  and  studied  natural  history. 
It  has  given  me  pleasure  myself  to  pick  up  some  interesting  fresh- 
water and  land  shells  in  the  rice  ground ;  then  I  liked  to  hear 
all  fthmif  fVifi  npflrrn  wArlfliTjiTa  •  how  the  Toun2  ladics  make  the 
take,  &c.,  &c. ;  and  I  was  amused  by  an  account  of  one  little 


SLAVS   HOIVESTT. 


225 


Kary  14, 185& 


Topsy,  "who  could  not  resist  cents  when  they  fell  in  her  way ;  her 
mistress  thought  that  by  giving  a  few  to  her  to  take  care  of,  she 
might  be  brought  to  some  idea  of  mine  and  thine ;  but  when  the 
pence  were  asked,  for,  they  had  vanished.  With  a  sad  face  the 
child  said,  ♦  All  gone ;  somebody  Hefed  from  me.'  Soon  after- 
wards she  said  to  one  of  the  negro  girls,  *  Me  very  sorry,  me 
could  not  help*;  me  tiefed  from  myself.'  It  is  not  often  the 
blacks  of  this  country  are  dishonest,  but  they  sometimes  reason 
in  this  way  :  '  I  belong  to  massa,  all  massa  has  belongs  to  me ; ' 
and  there  is  some  diflBculty  in  preserving  onions  or  fruits,  because 
they  are  thought  to  be  common  property;  they  fish,  and  trap, 
and  catch  game ;  and  if  guns  were  allowed  them,  everything 
would  be  destroyed.  The  only  security  for  fish  and  game  is 
keeping  the  *  darkies '  well  employed ;  and  such  is  their  feeling 
towards  their  master,  that  in  some  cases  where  freshets  have  put 
his  crops  in  danger,  they  have  worked  freely  eighteen  hours  out 
of  the  twenty-four,  for  three  weeks,  to  save  them — more  than 
they  would  have  done  for  themselves  in  such  a  case.  The  thanks 
of  Mr.  Cooper,  and  a  few  little  presents,  make  them  quite  happy : 
they  are  devoted  servants,  and  miserable  free  people.  This  fact 
it  is  impossible  to  state  too  often  or  too  decidedly.  The  Creator 
of  men  formed  them  for  labor  under  guidance,  and  there  is  pro- 
bably a  providential  intention  of  producing  some  good  Christian 
men  and  women  out  of  it  in  time.  We  have  been  blindly 
endeavouring  to  counteract  this  intention;  we  have  thought  our- 
selves wiser  than  our  forefathers  in  all  points,  because  we  have 
advanced  beyond  them  in  others ;  and  it  has  been  the  habit  for 
us  in  England  to  believe  ourselves  more  religious,  and  virtuous, 
and  benevolent  than  these  slaveholders ;  whereas,  I  fear  there  is 
a  greater  amount  of  irreligion  and  vice  in  one  town  of  ours,  or 
of  the  Northern  States  here,  than  in  all  the  Southern  States  put 
together.  When  I  watch  the  kindness,  the  patience,  the  consid- 
eration shown  by  white  gentlemen  and  gentlewomen  towards 
these  *  darkies,'  I  could  say  to  some  anti-slavery  people  I  have 
known, '  Go  thou,  and  do  likewise.'  There  is  such  a  sense  of 
Kcurity  in  this  country,  that  doors  and  windows  are  oa  often  left 
10» 


226 


BRUNSWICK. 


Unfastened  at  night  as  not ;  and  a  slaveholder  told  mo  he  had 
lived  alono  for  eight  years  among  his  negroes,  without  once  think' 
ing  it  necessary  to  look  a  door  or  bur  a  window. 

February  15. — I  spent  two  hours  in  the  pine  barrens  and 
swamps  yesterday,  with  some  young  friends,  gathering  seeds  and 
taking  up  plants  which  I  am  going  to  send  to  England.  How- 
ever  beautiful  the  flowers  may  be  in  May,  this  season  is  more  ad- 
vantageous to  a  gardener,  because  now  roots  can  be  moved  with 
more  safety.  Mr.  Cooper  will  go  with  me  to  Brunswick,  where 
the  St.  John  steamer  calls,  at  three  or  four  o'clock  to-morrow 
morning,  in  her  way  to  Palatka. 

St.  Augustine,  February  19. — Brunswick  is  little  more  than 
the  promise  of  a  future  town,  but  it  is  in  a  healthy  situation, 
where  there  might  be  a  tine  park,  at  present  there  is  only  an 
hotel.  Streets  are  marked  out,  and  there  are  many  pretty  de- 
tached villas.  Our  way  to  it  was  over  a  deep  sandy  road,  through 
the  pine  barren,  and  a  continual  undergrowth  of  that  palm  with 
a  saw-like  stem,  and  fan  leaf  (Chameorops  serrulata),  from  the 
loaves  of  which  pretty  baskets  are  manufactured,  and  I  imagine 
hats  mighb  be  made  equal  to  those  of  Leghorn ;  it  grows  all 
about  this  extensive  white  sand  district,  as  thick  as  fern  with  us, 
and  I  think  it  would  be  hardy  in  the  southwestern  parts  of  Eng- 
land. As  we  approached  Brunswick,,  fine  specimens  of  the  tree 
or  cabbage  palmetto  were  by  the  wayside ;  with  difficulty  we  took 
up  young  ones  for  seedlings ;  some  run  so  deep  into  the  ground 
it  is  hard  to  move  them.  A  very  primitive  kind  of  post-office 
may  be  observed  in  these  forests ;  boxes  without  any  lock  nailed 
to  a  tree,  into  which,  when  a  mail  passes,  letters  are  occosioually 
dropped. 

The  St.  John  steamer  arrived  soon  after  midnight,  but  the 
tide  did  not  rise  sufficiently  for  her  to  leave  till  near  three  in 
the  morning,  because  she  would  not  have  been  able  to  cross  the 
bar  of  the  St.  John  lliver.  The  following  day  proved  bright  and 
sunshiny,  thou.i'h  cold  for  the  climate :  in  the  North  the  weather 
has  continued  severe,  with  deep  snow.  Before  entering  the  bar 
i)t  the  mouth  of  the  St,  John  (or  Walaka)  Kiver,  wq  had  to  cross 


PALATKA. 


227 


ru;  it  grows  uU 


the  open  sea  for  some  miles.     I  saw  palmettos,  at  least  sevonty 
or  eighty  feet  high,  upon  the  sandbanks  as  wo  entered  the  river ; 
it  is  said  thoir  roots  reach  to  the  elay  beneath,  but  they  do  not 
appear  to  require  cither  rich  or  marshy  land.     The  sand  here  is 
just  like  that  at  Bournemouth  in  Hampshire ;  but  on  this  coast 
it  extends  over  many  hundred  miles.     I  have  seen  nothing  else 
all  the  way  from  Savannah ;  it  has  evidently  been  the  bottom  of 
the  sea,  and  above  it  is  a  bed  of  shells,  much  resembling  those  of 
Hordwell  Cliif,  in  England ;  and  there  is  a  tract  of  still  more 
recent  formation,  between  Brunswick  and  Hopeton,  where  the 
bones  of  the  megatherium,  &c.  &c.,  are  found  in  largo  quantities. 
A  railroad  is  at  present  left  in  an  unfinislied  state,  as  you  approach 
Brunswick.     Some  of  these  days,  if  it  is  carried  into  the  interior, 
that  place  will  become  of  importance.      We  touched  at  a  small 
village  called  Mayport,  on  the  Walaka  River ;  there  the  steamer 
grounded,  and  detained  us  for  some  hours,  till  the  rise  of  the  tide. 
I  went  on  shore  and  picked  up  a  curious  little  prickly  fish,  a  plate 
bone  of  an  alligator,  and  shells,  among  them  some  curiously-shaped 
oysters  and  delicate  little  pholases.    We  got  off  about  four  o'clock, 
and  proceeded  to  Jacksonville ;  the  sun  set  finely  before  we  reached 
that  place.     This  water  resembles  more  a  series  of  inland  lakes 
than  a  river.     We  passed  Magnolia  and  Picolata  in  the  night, 
and  reached  Palatka  about  six  in  the  morning.      There  I  found 
it  was  not  possible  to  get  any  conveyance  to  the  Orange  Springs 
before  Monday,  so  I  detenuined  to  return  as  far  as  Picolata  in 
the  steamer,  and  get  across  a  pine  barren  to  visit  St.  Augustine, 
as  there  will  be  time  enough  for  me  to  be  back  at  Palatka  for  the 
nest  mail.      We  had  a  delightful  passage  down  again,  through 
the  still  calm  waters  of  the  wide  Walaka.      Each  shore  fringed 
by  live  oaks,  with  occasional  palmettos,  and  now  and  then  an 
orange-grove — but  oranges  are  very  scarce,  since  a  severe  frost 
some  years  ago  destroyed  nearly  all  the  trees.     I  have  seen  no 
fruit  whatever,  since  the  oranges  and  bananas  imported  to  Charles- 
ton from  Cuba.     We  got  a  rough  carriage  at  Picolata  ;  it  was  of 
a  light  description,  and  drawn  by  two  large  horses ;  but  the  deep 
white  sand  continued  the  whole  eighteen  miles  to  St.  Augustino 


J 


228 


A  SHELL  LAND. 


,     1 


and  it  took  us  nearly  five  hours  to  get  through  it.  I  begin  to 
see  blossoms  by  the  wayside ;  a  pretty  white  Rubus,  looking  likft 
a  single  rose,  I  never  saw  before,  and  a  very  large  violet  without 
scent,  a  pretty  white  Tussilago,  or  aster-looking  plant,  about  three 
inches  from  the  ground  {Chaptalia),  the  white  star-like  Hous- 
tonia  in  bright  patches,  and  the  fragrant  yellgw  Gelucinum,  run- 
ning among  the  bushes,  and  up  nearly  to  the  top  of  trees  in  occa- 
sional swamps;  a  tiny  white  violet  below,  with  Andromedas, 
Gordonias,  and  Yucca  filimentosa,  now  and  then  by  the  side  of 
our  track. 

We  crossed  the  branch  of  the  St.  Sebastian  River,  and  a 
dismal-looking  marsh  near  St.  Augustine.  Soon  after  my  arri- 
val, President  Wheeler,  of  Burlington,  and  Mr.  Myers  took  mo 
to  see  the  ancient  Spanish  fort,  built  of  Cucino,  a  stone  formed 
entirely  of  shell  debris.  This  is  a  shell  land ;  houses  and  walls 
made  of  shells,  ground  made  of  shells.  I  have  got  some  recent 
ones — a  fine  large  pholas,  prima  mactras,  &c.  &.,  but  none  I 
have  seem  to  have  the  gorgeous  colouring  of  those  in  the  South. 
Two  fine  date  trees  stand  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Myers's  house. 
I  do  not  know  if  these  are  remarkable  specimens,  but  they  have 
far  exceeded  my  expectations ;  the  regularly  tiled  bark,  crowned 
by  feathery  foliage,  more  gigantic  and  noble-looking  even  than  the 
Palmetto  I  admire  so  much,  and  the  fruit  (which  hangs  even  now 
in  wreaths  between  the  leaves),  when  it  has  its  golden  purplish 
hue,  must  be  beautiful. 

I  am  disappointed  to  find  that  this  place  is  not  upon  the  main 
sea,  but  upon  the  St.  Sebastian,  which  is  rather  a  creek  than  a 
river.  The  streets  are  extremely  narrow,  and  in  general  appear- 
ance the  town  is  bare  and  dilapidated.  Here,  as  well  as  at  Bruns> 
wick,  a  railroad  would  soon  be  the  means  of  improvement  and 
ultimate  prosperity ;  but  I  suppose  there  is  not  capital  enough  to 
construct  one  even  over  this  flat  country,  with  timber  on  every 
side  easily  turned  into  sleepers ;  only  sixteen  miles  of  rail  would 
reach  the  St.  John's  (Walaka),  but  I  do  not  hear  of  any  proposi- 
^on  to  make  it. 

JSUv«r  Spring,  Florida,  February  21.— At  last  I  have  got  to 


BOTAinZINO. 


229 


this  place,  without  regretting  the  trouble  of  coming  two  himdred 
and  thirty  miles  from  Savannah,  although  my  journey  has  been  a 
tedious  and  difficult  one.  Even  with  my  superficial  knowledge 
of  geology,  I  find  tlie  features  of  this  country  very  interesting ; 
both  at  Ocala  and  licrc,  there  is  a  kind  of  chalk  and  greeneand 
with  the  fossils  belonging  to  a  cretaceous  formation,  and  the  Sil- 
ver Spring  bursts  forth  just  like  many  streams  and  springs  in 
Dorsetshire,  clear  and  bright  as  crystal ;  but  I  must  go  back  to 
St.  Augustine  before  I  say  more  about  this  part  of  Florida.  I 
got  a  kind  of  open  vehicle  with  four  horses,  which  in  five  hours 
took  us  to  Picolata — there  the  Charleston  steamer  Caroline, 
which  would  take  passengers  on  to  Palatka,  was  expected ;  and 
wc  got  shelter  in  a  shed  belonging  to  an  Englishman,  who  acted 
as  postmaster.  It  rained  hard,  but  I  took  my  umbrella,  and 
walked  out  to  look  for  plants  in  a  wood  near.  Growing  by  a  shed, 
I  found  a  Solamen,  new  to  me,  which  had  been  brought  from  the 
West ;  it  was  a  shrub  with  white  flowers  and  soft  cottony  leaves 
ou,  and  growing  under  the  trees.  I  gathered  white  blossoms  of 
the  beautiful  little  creeping  Rubus  I  had  before  seen,  like  a  small 
white  rose ;  it  resembled  one  much  both  in  leaves  and  flowers.  I 
also  picked  up  seeds  of  the  red  maple,  which  also  grows  on  the 
banks  of  the  Altamaha,  but  then  not  forward  enough. 

The  Caroline  came  about  five  o'clock ;  she  was  a  swift  boat, 
but  less  comfortable  in  point  of  accommodation  than  the  St.  John^ 
as  the  ladies'  cabin  was  below,  and  there  was  no  pleasant  place 
upon  which  to  sit  out  upon  deck.  However,  as  the  evening  con- 
tinued rainy,  that  did  not  signify.  We  reached  Palatka  about 
eight;  and  by  nine  next  morning,  a  comfortable  mail  carriage 
with  four  horses  took  us  in,  bound,  as  I  believed,  for  the  Silver 
Spring,  a  place  about  seventy-six  miles  from  hence.  If  I  had 
known  that  we  should  not  arrive  there  till  after  midnight,  fifteen 
hours'  travel,  with  one  man  driving  four  horses  through  a  pine 
barren,  which  harbours  wolves,  bears,  and  panthers,  my  courage 
would  have  failed  me.  At  last,  when  we  reached  our  journey's 
sud,  T  found  myself  not  at  the  Silver  Spring,  but  at  a  place  called 
0«Hla,  which  I  had  uever  bsfore  heard  of;  and  I  have  ftince  dig 


280 


DEMOCRATIC   DESPOTISM. 


II        ' 


covereJ  that,  owing  to  the  abuse  of  power  in  this  republican  conn- 
try,  I  was  made  to  go  six  miles  out  of  my  way,  because  the  post- 
master, who  has  a  small  boarding-house  near  the  Spring,  was  not 
a  supporter  of  this  President;  so  the  democrats  got  the  mail 
altered  to  Ocala,  for  the  purpose  of  damaging  Mr.  Mann;  and 
although  there  might  be  a  practicable  water-carriage  by  the  Och- 
lawaha,  straight  from  Palatka  to  the  Silver  Springs,  where  there 
is  a  perfect  inland  harbour  for  steamers,  which  ought  to  make 
that  place  a  considerable  one,  with  fair  usage, — that  harbour  has 
been  neglected  or  discouraged ;  ^^o  that  cotton  must  be  dragged 
the  whole  way  we  have  come  in  bullock-wagons.  Such  an  act  of 
despotism  could  never  havo  been  perpetrated  in  monarchical  Eng- 
land ;  after  all,  the  most  truly  free  country  in  the  world. 

At  midnight,  cold,  wet,  and  dark,  we  at  last  reached  Ocala. 
I  fortunately  had  some  tea  with  me ;  I  begged  some  hot  water, 
and  a  black  girl  brought  in  one  hand  an  open  iron  pan,  with  the 
water  escaping  fast  out  of  a  hole ;  in  the  other,  the  remains  of  a 
china  teapot  without  spout  or  handle. 

'  Missus,  which  shall  I  make  it  in? ' 

I  said  we  had  better  put  the  tea  into  the  one  that  had  no  hole 
in  the  bottom,  and  so  we  made  something  like  tea.  Next  morn- 
ing I  was  surprised  to  find  some  bits  of  greensand  rook  containing 
fossils,  which  first  made  me  suppose  there  must  be  something  like 
chalk  in  the  neighbourhood.  I  asked  where  there  had  been  dig- 
ging, and  Mrs.  B ,  sister  to  the  landlord,  who  entered  into 

the  matter,  proposed  to  walk  with  me  to  a  spot,  through  the 
nearest  hummock  (or  small  wood),  where  there  had  been  an  abor- 
tive attempt  to  sink  a  well.  She  got  a  negro  boy  to  guide  us,  and 
I  found  the  spot ;  a  shaft  had  been  sunk  to  the  depth  of  sixty 
feet,  and  there,  sure  enough,  were  fossils,  Nummulites;  pectens, 
&c.,  &c. 

At  first  I  was  told  it  was  not  possible  to  get  to  Silver  Spring. 
But  at  last,  with  some  difficulty  I  procured  two  one-horse  wagons, 

which  took  R and  me  to  the  little  cottage  hotel  near  the 

Silver  Spring,  from  whence  I  now  write ;  it  is  kept  by  the  post- 
master, Mr.  Mann,  who  three  or  four  years  ago  bought  some  land, 


THE  SILVEB  SPRING. 


281 


republican  conn, 
because  the  post- 

Spring,  was  not 
Its  got  the  mail 

Mr.  Mann;  and 
iage  by  the  Och- 
ings,  where  there 
ought  to  make 
that  harbour  has 
nust  be  dragged 
Such  an  act  of 
nonarchical  Enw- 
le  world, 
t  reached  Ocala. 
some  hot  water, 
on  pan,  with  the 
the  remains  of  a 


that  had  no  hole 
ea.  Next  morn- 
d  rock  containing 
be  something  like 
ire  had  been  dig- 
vho  entered  into 
pot,  through  the 
lad  been  an  abor- 
y^  to  guide  ua,  and 
3  depth  of  sixty 
nulites;  pectens, 

to  Silver  Spring, 
me-horse  wagons, 
)  hotel  near  the 
ept  by  the  post- 
ought  some  knd, 


and  settled  here  from  Georgia.  He  and  his  good  wife  make  us  as 
much  at  home  as  they  can  by  the  side  of  their  comfortable  pine 
blaze,  which  is  fire  and  candle  in  one ;  and  with  the  aid  of  a 
feather  bed  and  blankets,  I  did  not  suffer  from  cold  in  the  night, 
although  the  roof  was  not  wholly  closed  from  the  air,  and  light 
showed  between  the  planked  walls ;  frost  outside.  For  twenty 
years  such  severe  weather  has  not  been  known  in  these  parts,  and 
all  still  looks  wintry. 

I  have  been  in  a  little  boat  upon  the  bright  clear  water, 
wbioh  in  some  places  is  forty  feet  deep,  issuing  freely,  I  suppose, 
out  of  the  greensand  rock  below,  which  looks  as  if  made  out  of 
Bolid  aquamarine— every  fish,  and  shell,  and  weed  is  perfectly 
risible.  This  silver  stream  flows  a  good  sized  river  five  miles, 
and  then  joins  tho  Ochlawaha,  which  runs  into  the  St.  John's 
twenty  miles  above  Palatka ;  and  though  it  may  be  double  the 
land  distance  from  that  place,  the  water  carriage  would  be  much 
pleasanter  and  more  rapid  than  wading  through  about  seventy 
miles  of  sandy,  swampy  pine  barrens.  I  now  find  that  a  stage 
which  passed  ours  on  the  road  actually  came  straight  by  this 
place  from  Palatka,  so  I  should  have  paid  twelve  dollars  less,  and 
we  should  have  arrived  here  some  time  earlier,  and  not  have  had 
the  difficulty  of  getting  back  agaiu  here,  if  it  had  suited  the  views 
or  the  interests  of  Palatka  to  let  me  know  the  Silver  Spring  was 
nearer  than  Ocala ; — but  I  find,  in  this  country,  travellers  must 
always  be  on  their  guard  against  false  information,  given  from  the 
selfish  rivalry  of  parties  or  individuals ;  in  this  respect,  America 
is  worse  than  any  part  of  the  world  I  ever  before  visited.  Mr. 
Robert  Chambers  was  either  much  mistaken  or  grossly  deceived 
when  he  published  a  letter  asserting  the  absence  of  imposition  at 
the  hotels.  For  less  real  comfort,  I  have  as  yet  been  made  to 
pay  everywhere  (with  the  one  exception  of  Cleveland  on  Lake 
Erie)  far  more  than  in  England ;  upon  an  average  at  about  ten 
pounds  a  week  for  my  maid  and  self,  taking  our  meals  at  the  pub- 
lic table,  and  without  a  private  sitting-room.  This  exceeds  any- 
thing I  ever  paid  in  any  country  in  Europe ;  Rud  there  is  neither 
appeal  nor  redress.     Whether  you  dine  out  every  day  or  not,  no 


232 


TIOER    OAT. 


difference  is  made  in  your  hotel  expenses.  It  is  true  you  mcy 
generally  console  yourself  by  the  use  of  gorgeous  mirrors,  silk 
curtains,  and  splendid  carpets ;  but  few  travellers  wish  for  this 
kind  of  accommodation.     Mr.  Mann  drove  me  yesterday  to  seo 

tho  plantation  of  Mr.  P ,  a  gentleman's  place,  where  there  is 

a  really  fine  grove  of  oracge  trees ;  they  are  indigenous,  some  of 
them  standing  in  a  clearing,  and  others,  as  undergrowth  in  the 
forest,  extending  down  to  the  river  which  flows  from  the  Silver 
Spring.  Some  of  these  are  thirty  feet  high,  loaded  with  fruit  of  a 
kind  called  here  the  '  bitter-sweet ; '  they  are  good,  if  all  the  pulp 
is  carefully  taken  out ;  but  eaten  without  that  operation  they  are 
as  bitter  as  what  we  call  Seville  oranges.  I  saw  several  little 
green  paroquets  with  yellow  heads,  the  only  kind  of  parrot  com- 
mon in  Florida.  Rattlesnakes  are  frequent,  but  they  always  get 
out  of  the  way,  if  they  can  ;  wolvci  and  panthers,  too,  are  only 
dangerous  to  sheep  and  dogs.  A  gentleman  hunting  in  this 
neighbourhood  lately,  on  a  mule,  the  animal  trod  upon  a  snake, 
which  stung  him  so  that  he  died  in  a  few  minutes ;  and  some  days 
ago,  a  tiger  cat  jumped  out  upon  a  negro,  who  drove  it  off  by  a 
stab  with  his  knife ;  but  the  man's  clothes  were  torn,  and  he  was 
so  terribly  frightened  that  he  could  give  no  clear  account  of  his 
assailant ;  these  are  the  only  casualties  from  wild  beasts  I  have 
heard  of,  ard  I  have  seen  nothing  of  the  kind  to  alarm  me.  I 
have  not  even  got  a  sight  of  un  alligator  yet,  and  the  only  re- 
markable birds  I  have  observed,  were  a  bald-headed  eagle  on  the 
i^ltamaha  River,  and  a  very  dim-coloured  kite. 

From  the  inquiries  I  have  made,  and  my  own  observations,  I 
suspect  that  the  centre  part  of  Florida  was  once  an  island,  di- 
vided from  the  main  land  by  a  strait,  which  went  across  where  a 
dismal  swamp  may  now  be  seen;  the  sea,  probably,  extended 
from  about  St.  Augustine  to  Savannah,  across  to  Apalachicola ; 
and  from  thence,  t(  wards  Picolata  and  Alligator,  the  country 
begins  to  rise  ;  then  comes  a  volcanic  and  then  the  chalk  district; 
and  I  understand  tacre  are  higher  limestone  ridges  further  south, 
where  the  land  (alls  down  to  .the  plains  of  the  Everglade^;  a 
ihba  of  Seminole  Indiaus  (so  oalled  because  they  are  runaways 


OCALA. 


283 


{Tom  the  Creeks)  still  hatint  those  Everglades.  The  United 
States  Government  have  military  stations  or  posts  to  prevent 
them  from  coming  further  north ;  and  some  endeavours  will  be 
made  to  induce  them  to  follow  the  other  Indian  nations  westward. 
A  chief  once  consented  to  such  an  arrangement,  but  his  people 
refused  to  ratify  it.  The  wood  they  call  '  kindling'  {Pinus  pa- 
lustris).  Game,  fish,  and  yams  are  so  plentiful  in.  the  South,  it 
is  not  to  be  won-  sred  at  that  the  poor  savages  are  loth  to  emi- 
grate to  the  cold  north-west ;  but  their  fate  is  sealed ;  go  they 
must,  sooner  or  later,  before  the  encroaching  white  man ;  how- 
ever sad,  there  is  no  alternative.  The  Indian  name  of  these 
springs  is  poetical  and  appropriate.  *  Chatawa  via  wa — Chatawa 
via  na  wa '  (Bright  flowing  river  of  silver  silent  waters).  We  have 
been  living  here,  in  Mr.  Mann's  open  log-dwelling,  with  only  hir, 

Mrs.  Maun,  and  their  negroes,  sharing  pot-luck ;  R and  I 

sitting  by  the  blazing  pinewood  fire ;  httle  niggers  at  our  feet ; 
black  '  boys  and  girls '  of  all  ages  coming  in  and  out,  and  leaning 
and  gossiping  against  the  fire-place,  whenever  they  *  minded.' 
Mr.  Mann  said,  '  You  see  how  it  is ;  how  much  harder  I  and  my 
poor  wife  work  than  these  people  ;  I  would  gladly  .give  them  all 
away  for  one  good  white  servant ;  their  food  and  clothing  cost  me 
more  than  I  should  have  to  pay  for  wages ;  and  they  are  so  waste- 
ful. All  uJy  children  are  married.  My  old  woman  and  I  could 
be  much  more  comfortable  if  we  were  not  hampered  by  fifteen 
negroes.  I  should  not  like  to  sell  them,  or  make  them  leave  ;  it 
is  a  hard  task  we  have  ;  but  it  would  be  such  a  distress  and  ruin 
to  the  poor  things,  if  we  rid  ourselves  of  them.' 

Ocala,  February  24. — In  the  afternoon  of  the  day  before  yes- 
terday, I  returned  to  this  place ;  symptoms  of  a  chalky  country 
the  whole  way.  Before  sunrise  the  next  morning  I  was  out. 
Upon  going  down  stairs  I  found  no  fastening  to  the  external  door 
of  this  house ;  but  a  light  chair  was  placed  against  it,  which  a 
child  could  have  pushed  aside.  What  an  evideuc<i  of  the  security 
of  property  in  this  unguarded  slave  country,  when  locks  and  bolts 
are  considered  unnecessary.  Before  breakfast,  I  rambled  two  or 
three  m!!es  into  a  beautiful  forest  to  the  south-west,  without  the 


284 


*  OLD  dick's'   view   OF   8LAVERT. 


smallest  fear  of  meeting  anything  more  alarming  than  two  or 
three  black  pigs,  which  are  allowed  to  wander  at  will  after  roots 
and  acorns ;  if  rattlesnakes  have  finished  their  winter-nap,  they 
are  not  up  so  early.  Everything  around  was  bright  and  tran- 
quil— magnolias,  streaming  epiphytes,  and  palmettos,  looked  so 
foreign,  that  when  I  came  to  what  in  Devonshire  would  bo  called 
a  *  gully,'  in  this  usually  flat  country,  and  saw  a  stump  covered 
with  one  of  the  English  feather  mosses  {Hypnum  proliferum),  I 
was  quite  surprised.  In  a  clearing,  upon  my  return  towards  this 
little  town  of  seven  years'  existence,  I  met  an  old  negro,  sitting 
upon  his  bullock-cart.  We  had  a  long  conversation :  he  asked 
about  England,  and  seemed  anxious  to  talk  of  the  condition  of  his 
race,  and  their  prospects  in  Liberia ;  he  was  by  far  the  most  intel- 
ligent negro  I  ever  met  with.  He  told  me  he  had  worked  for 
himself  at  odd  times,  and  had  accumulated  enough  to  buy  his 
own  freedom ,  he  purposes  doing  this,  and  going  to  Liberia,  he 
and  his  wife,  with  the  view  of  guiding  and  improving  his  fellow 
blacks.  He  thinks  the  slaves  unfit  for  freedom  in  the  mass ;  that 
only  those  who  have  been  raised  for  a  generation  or  two  among 
the  w.iites  can  be  induced  to  work ;  and  that  some  few,  who  hke 
himself  have  got  improved  habits,  may  go  back  to  do  good  in 
Africa.     Old  Dick  would  not  have  stopped  the  slave  trade : '  No, 

ma'am ;  bring  them  away  to  make  them  better.'     Mr.  G ,  an 

excellent  Episcopalian  missionary  and  clergyman  here,  who  was, 
educated  in  the  North,  is  of  the  same  opinion.  No  one  can  live 
long  in  this  country  without  being  convinced  of  the  want  of  real 
information,  and  the  injudicious  tendency  of  Uncle  Tom.  He 
says  such  books,  however  popular  and  ingenious,  are  false  in  fact, 
and  therefore  bad  ,in  principle  ;  and  I  have  already  seen  enough 
fully  to  concur  in  that  conclusion.  Untruth  will  never  promote 
Christianity ;  -and  those  who  sincerely  desire  to  advance  the  cause 
of  the  negro  should  remain  for  some  months  in  the  Southern 
States  of  America ;  not  with  the  view  of  strengthening  their  own 
prejudices,  but  single-minded,  and  with  a  simple  intention  to  seek, 
and  to  accept,  such  information  as  really  may  enable  them  to 
onderstaud  what  will  benefit  their  fellow-creatures.    I  spent  yea- 


PANTHEB8. 


285 


terday  in  visiting  every  quarry  and  opening  whioh  might  enable 
me  to  compreliend  the  geological  features  of  this  neighbourhood. 
Chalk  and  flint  and  grecnsand  abound ;  and  I  can  hear  of  no  other 
formations  within  any  reasonable  distance.  I  found  strong  evi> 
dence  of  the  up-heaving  by  volcanic  action — fossils  plentiful ;  but 
I  found  no  gryphitcs,  scaphites,  or  nautili. 

This  moriiiing,  we  return  as  far  as  the'Orange  Springs,  for  I 
shall  not  again  be  inveigled  into  a  fifteen  hours'  journey  through 
tbesani  barrens. 

Falatka,  February  25. — Our  stage  did  not  leave  Ocala  be- 
fore eleven  o'clock.  It  was  delayed  by  the  non-arrival  of  the 
mail  from  Tampa,  a  place  a  hundred  miles  to  the  south-west.  A 
crow  in  this  country  makes  a  noise  just  like  the  bark  of  a  dog. 
The  deer,  which  are  still  frequently  shot,  are  of  small  size ;  their 
iiorns  lave  never  more  than  five  or  six  points ;  their  weight  from 
eighty  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds.  There  are  panthers 
measuring  twelve  feet  from  the  nose  to  the  tip  of  the  tail,  which 
occasionally  carry  off  cows  and  oxen.  A  large  one  destroyed 
some  pigs  close  to  Palatka.  Several  gentlemen  pursued  the  ani- 
mal. It  took  refuge  in  a  large  swampy  hummock ;  the  hunters 
then  sent  their  dogs  to  get  the  beast  out,  but  of  thirteen  only 
eight  ever  appeared  again,  and  it  was  concluded  that  the  other 
five  were  killed  by  the  panther.  Unless  alarmed,  or  woundea, 
they  have  never  been  known  to  attack  a  man.  After  a  tedious 
journey,  we  reached  Oran>j;e  Springs  by  seven  in  the  evening.  I 
got  a  carriage  very  early,  and  went  to  breakfast  with  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  L ,  who  '  are  roughing  it  in  the  Bush.'     They  gave  me 

excellent  bread  and  butter,  which  was  a  treat  after  the  hot  rolls 
and  buckwheat  cakes  most  usually  met  witl.  in  America.  I  saw 
the  sulphur  springs  and  lakes,  which  may  have  once  been  volcanic 
sinks,  and  got  back  to  Mr.  Dickenson's  boarding  house  in  time 
for  the  departing  stage.  The  weather  proved  wet,  and  our  jour- 
ney back  to  Palatka  dreary. 

February  26. — I  saw  a  bone  here  last  night  seven  feet  long 
and  three  inches  wide,  wavy  in  form,  and  apparently  reoeut. 
Some  one  suggested  that  it  might  have  belonged  to  a  sea-cow.    It 


236 


J'AOKSOmriLI.E. 


did  not  resemble  the  rib  of  a  whale,  though  it  might  belong  to  the 
head  of  a  large  one.  I  sketched  the  form,  not  being  able  to  giicsa 
wliat  creature  had  ever  owned  it.  As  the  Yv'^ulatka  steamer 
makes  a  trip  of  thirty-two  miles  up  the  North  Creek,  one  of  tno 
branches  of  this  *  river  of  lakes'  (a  translation  of  the  Indian  name 
of  Walatka,  the  St.  John),  I  took  the  Charleston  boat  as  far  aa 
Jacksonville,  and  went  on  board  that  for  Savannah  at  night. 
Jacksonville  is,  to  my  fancy,  the  prettiest  town  between  Bnins- 
wick  and  Palatka.  There  is  a  large  hotel ;  and  in  consequence 
of  a  destructive  fire  last  year,  good  brick  houses  and  shops  are 
rising  up.  In  one  of  the  sandy  alleys  at  the  back  of  the  place,  I 
found  some  lumps  of  porphyritic  rock,  much  to  my  surprise,  for  I 
could  not  believe  they  belonged  to  this  modern  land.  After 
some  inquiry,  I  found  they  had  been  brought  here  as  ballast.  I 
went  into  a  store,  where  I  bought  alligator's  teeth,  limes,  and  a 
nice  little  map  of  Florida.  Professor  Baird,  of  Washington,  gave 
mo  a  note  of  introduction  to  Dr.  Baldwin ;  but  unfortunately  the 
doctor  was  away  from  home,  so  I  did  not  succeed  in  getting  some  bo- 
tanical information  I  hoped  for.  Mrs.  Baldwin  was  very  obliging : 
she  gave  me  a  fine  specimen  of  coral  from  Key  West.  This  name  is 
a  corruption  of  the  Indian-Spanish  words,  '  Chicao  hueso,  Key  of 
Bones.'  We  shall  touch  there  in  our  way  from  Charleston  to 
Cuba.  After  making  a  sketch  at  Jacksonville,  I  get  on  board  the 
Walatka  before  sunset,  and  after  a  successful  though  cold  voyage 
of  two  nights  and  one  day,  we  reached  Savannah  by  seven  o'clock 

in  the  morning  of  February  28th.     My  friends,  Miss  T and 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  H ,  received  us  very  hospitably.     Miss  T 

took  me  a  drive  to  call  upon  Dr.  Turner,  my  fi^llow  sufferer  in 
the  Seminole  accident,  who  took  such  charge  of  me  as  far  as 
Hopeton.  I  was  delighted  to  visit  his  cottage,  where  I  found 
him  very  busy  gardening,  and  I  learned  a  new  and  ingenious 
method  of  cultivating  strawberries.  He  almost  promises  to  meet 
me  at  Chittanoge,  if  T  will  make  my  way  into  Tennessee  from  New 

Orleans.     I  will  try.     Before  seven  o'clock  Mr.  H took  me 

on  board  the  Calhoun.  The  night  was  bright,  but  very  cold,  and 
an  adverse  wind  and  rough  sea  prevented  the  sttnamer  from  reach- 


T7NTJ8TTAL   COLD. 


237 


ing  Charleston  before  six  o'clock  next  morning.     Mr.  and  Mrs. 

H expected  me  to  breakfast;    and  after  three  successive 

nights  spent  on  board  three  steamers,  without  taking  off  my 
clothes,  the  prospect  of  three  quiet  days  in  their  comfortable 
house  was  very  consoling.  My  chalk  fossils  and  pretty  ferns  ex- 
cite an  interest  among  some  of  my  friends  here.  Professor  Gibbs 
spent  some  time  in  looking  over  these  acquisitions,  and  Mrs. 
H—  promises  to  plant,  and  watch  over  all  the  living  plants  this 
oext  summer,  and  then  she  will  forward  them  to  meet  me  at 
Boston  next  September,  when  I  hope  my  "Ward's  case  will  trans- 
port them  safely  to  England.  But  the  weather  continues  ex« 
tremely  cold — I  am  assured  quite  unusually  eo  for  this  part  of 
the  world :  it  is  quite  as  bitter  as  our  coldest  March.  I  often 
think  of  the  poor  troops,  for  it  seems  this  long  severe  winter 
has  extended  to  Europe  as  well  as  America.  It  has  been  a  great 
disappointment  to  find  no  letters  here :  not  one  line  have  I  re- 
ceived from  England  of  later  date  than  the  9th  of  January,  and 
this  is  the  3rd  of  March ;  but  I  trust  mails  are  awaiting  us  at 
Cuba.  We  are  a  month  later  in  going  to  that  island  tban  I  ex- 
pected ;  so  I  have  little  doubt  but  Mr.  Crampton  has  forwarded 
letters  there.     Yesterday  I  spent  some  hours  gardening  with 

Mrs.  H .     I  have  endeavoured  to  reconcile  the  pretty  fern 

from  Scott's  Springs  near  Ocala,  to  grow  away  from  its  chalky 
locality,  by  scraping  lime  off  the  wall ;  but  it  is  so  fairy-like  and 
fragile  in  appearance,  I  fear  it  is  of  a  tender,  fanciful  nature ; 
and  the  sheltered  arched  cave  and  dripping  stalactite  of  Florida 
is  very  unlike  any  home  I  can  find  for  it.  However,  I  have 
plenty  of  specimens  in  my  presp,  and  if  the  plants  die  I  must  be 
content  with  their  lifeless  forms.  We  embark  to-morrow  morn- 
ing in  the  Isabel  for  Cuba — another  three  days'  voyage;  but 
there  will  be  a  fine  moon,  and  at  last  I  hope  to  leave  winter  be- 
hind me.  There  seems  little  hope  of  getting  away  from  it  until 
vre  reach  a  tropical  climate.  Every  one  here  is  shivering  and 
complaining  of  such  unusual  cold — for,  of  course,  Southern  dwell- 
ings are  ill  prepared  to  combat  it — and  the  poor  trees  and  shrubs 
look  unhappy  under  this  northern  treatment.     I  have  sent  boxea 


I'  I 

■  "MM 


III.; 


288 


0EU.IlIiB8T0If. 


of  seeds  and  plants  to  Dorsetshire ;  of  course,  the  weather  is  also 
unfavourablu  for  their  travels,  and  I  fear  it  may  render  them  of 
little  value ;  but  still  it  is  no  use  to  keep  seeds  through  auothcr 
season.  The  mail  goes  to-day.  I  shall  like  to  know  when  my 
packet  reaches  home. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 
Charleston f  March  3,  1855. 


I'i  H 


rsi.  m 


LETTER  XX. 


Oif  Board  rns  Ibabkt^        > 

Bbtwxxn  Key  West  and  Cuva,  V 

March  7,  18&S.  ) 

My  dear  Friends, — 

In  spite  of  the  rocking  of  this  steamer,  I  can  write  this 
morning ;  and  I  want  to  tell  you  some  things,  which  may  be 
shoved  out  of  my  memory  by  the  excitement  and  novelty  of  Cu- 
ban scenes.  The  day  before  leaving  Charleston,  I  spent  some 
time  at  the  Musr-nni,  where  Mr.  Holmes,  the  curator,  thinks  that 
my  brown  Fuirida  flints,  although  they  strike  fire,  are  not  analo- 
gou3  with  the  black  flints  in  England.  As  I  found  no  scaphites, 
or  nautiluses,  and  no  real  terebratulee,  Mr.  Holmes  thinks  my 
chalk  is  of  the  same  date  as  the  cretaceous  formations  of  Carolina 
and  Alabama.  I  have  not  seen  them,  so  I  cannot  judge;  but 
with  the  exception  of  whatever  paleontological  differences  there 
may  be  (of  which  I  am  not  learned  enough  to  judge),  Florida 
chalk  and  Dorset  chalk  are  twin  sistor^:  yet  it  requires  exact 
knowledge  to  distinguish  old  red  sandstone  from  the  new  red  by 
the  general  appearance  of  either ;  so  I  suppose  there  is  some  re- 
semblauce  between  these  chalky  sisters,  and  that  new  chalk  and  old 
chalk  are  difficult  to  distinguish :  but  this  matter  must  be  settled  by 
a  wiser  geologist  than  I  pretend  to  be.  I  have  heard  of  the  genu- 
ine sea-serpent  at  last !  You  know  I  always  advocated  the  reality 
of  such  a  reptile — partly  founded  upon  its  admission  into  the 
Scandinavian  Mythology,  in  which  every  symbol  was  borrowed 
from  Nature.     Last  spring,  when  Captain  Peat,  of  the  steamer 


240 


THE   GKNinNB  SEA   SERPENT. 


1   '"    .J 


m  '1 


WiUiam  Seahrook,  was  going  up  an  island  portion  of  the  Savan. 
nail  River,  he,  as  well  as  his  crew  and  passengers,  saw  a  gigantic 
serpent  just  before  the  vessel ;  it  quickly  disappeared ;  a  notice  of 
the  circumstance  was  inserted  in  a  local  newspaper,  and  treated 
with  the  usual  incredulity.  Captain  Ilollins  of  this  ship  says,  be, 
like  the  rest  of  the  world,  disbelieved  the  report  ,•  but  the  next 
day,  during  the  passage  of  this  steamer  to  Savannah,  on  approach- 
ing the  bar  of  St.  Helens,  he  was  called  by  his  look-out  man 
to  see  *the  biggest  log  that  ever  was.'  On  looking  through 
his  telescope,  he  clearly  saw  that  the  object  in  question  was  no 
tree,  but  a  monster  as  long  as  the  Isabel  herself,  in  rapid  motion ; 
as  he  watched  it,  it  reared  its  snake-like  body  and  head  high  out 
of  the  water  as  the  funnel  of  the  steamer,  looked  about  for  an 
instant,  and  then  plunged  down,  leaving  a  swirling  eddy  where  it 
had  shown  itself.  No  reasonable  person  acquainted  with  the  calm 
seaman-like  character  of  Captain  Rollins,  wilL  suspect  hitn  of 
either  exaggeration  or  error  in  describing  a  fact ;  but  this,  I  be- 
lieve, is  the  first  time  that  the  sea-serpent  has  been  supposed  to 
be  seen  or  heard  of  in  southern  latitudes :  it  is  probably  a  denizen 
of  the  deep  seas,  which  rarely  and  accidentally  gets  into  shallower 
water ;  and  if  it  is  an  uncommon  creature,  I  think  the  argument 
that  no  bone  or  skeleton  has  ever  been  found,  cannot  stand  against 
such  strong  evidence  as  wo  have  of  its  existence :  there  may  be 
some  weight  or  property  in  the  skeleton  which  prevents  any  part 
of  it  from  rising  to  the  surface  out  of  the  sea  caves  where  it 
usually  lives  and  dies. 

I  was  fortunate  in  finding  my  old  friend  G.  P embarking 

in  the  Isabel  at  the  same  time  as  myself :  his  society  and  aid  will 
make  not  only  my  voyage,  but  my  residence  in  Cuba  much  more 
agreeable ;  for  as  his  physician  has  ordered  him  to  counterbal- 
ance the  effects  of  an  unusually  severe  winter  by  a  visit 
South,  he,  like  myself,  has  no  other  objects  but  information  and 
amusement ;  so  I  hope  to  benefit  by  his  assistance  as  well  as  his 
company.  The  voyage  of  three  days  and  three  nights  from  Char- 
leston was  very  pleasant ;  we  had  calm  weather,  and  a  splendid 
moon ;  and  although  upon  running  a  few  hundred  miles  between 


LIGHTHOUSS. 


241 


tho  Cl-ulf  Stream  and  the  coral  reefs  and  islands  south  of  Florida, 
there  was  sufficient  motion  to  affect  all  the  extremely  sensitive  pf 
our  party,  neither  R nor  I  were  ill  for  a  moment. 

Two  small  Government  vessels,  with  surveyors,  wore  occupied 
in  raising  beacons  at  intervals  along  the  reefs.  Upon  one  of  them 
I  saw  an  erection  quite  novel  to  me ;  a  residence  and  lighthouse 
built  upon  an  apparently  transparent  iron  framework,  about  forty 
feet  in  height,  so  that  the  waves  of  the  sea  pass  through  the  foun- 
dation instead  of  undermining  it ;  a  retired  naval  master  Uvea 
with  his  family  in  charge  of  this  useful,  but  alarmingly  fragile- 
looking  establishment.  He  has  a  small  yacht,  in  which  he  or 
some  of  his  household  occasionally  visit  tho  mainland,  and  I  be- 
lieve they  reside  in  their  airy  dwelling  without  apprehension, 
although  a  few  years  ago,  when  every  house  on  Key  West  was  in- 
undated during  the  most  violent  storm  ever  known,  a  lighthouse 
built  upon  the  most  southern  point  of  the  United  States  territory, 
on  a  very  small  island  in  the  sea,  was  washed  away  with  all  its 
residents. 

The  captain  told  me  that  when  about  a  mile  from  the  Florida 
coast,  he  sometimes  could  distinguish  boars  walking  about  on 
shore,  and  he  pointed  out  a  small  island  in  the  chain  which  ex- 
ten  Is  from  the  mainland  down  to  Key  West,  which  a  few  years 
ago  was  inhabited  by  a  settler  and  his  family.  The  Indians  came 
forty  miles  in  canoes,  attacked  the  place,  and  murdered  every  in- 
dividual except  the  wiio  and  daughters  of  the  master,  who  crept 
in  among  some  sand  and  lumber  under  a  small  wharf.  After  mak- 
ing themselves  too  drunk  to  look  after  these,  the  Indians  left  the 
island,  so  that  a  few  days  afterwards  the  women  were  rescued  un- 
hurt. Now,  the  United  States  troops  have  enclosed  the  savages 
within  a  certain  district,  where  they  can  do  no  injury,  and  event- 
ually they  will  be  got  off  after  the  other  tribes,  westward.  It 
was  with  regret  that  I  found  it  beyond  midnight  before  wo 
reached  Key  West ;  as  the  steamer  only  stayed  half  an  hour, 
while  she  landed  a  few  passengers  and  some  goods,  I  could 
only  go  for  a  few  minutes  on  shore ;  and  my  first  intro- 
duction to  cocoa-nut  trees  was  by  moonlight.  However,  we 
11 


242 


AFFROACH  TO  THE  HARBOUK. 


were  luoky  to  have  a  moon.  I  picked  up  a  few  stones  that  I 
might  see  what  the  land  was  made  of,  and  afterwards  remained 
on  deck  till  two  o'clock,  so  as  to  see  the  fine  revolving  light  of  a 
house  about  nine  miles  out  at  sea.  I  was  on  deck  as  soon  as  the 
Cuban  land  could  be  distinguished,  and  we  had  a  charming  run 
down  to  the  island — ^flying  fish  among  the  waves,  and  the  elegant 
man-of-war  birds  sailing  about  over  our  heads.  In  general  out* 
line,  the  island  is  straighter  and  less  mountainous  than  I  expected ; 
it  did  not  look  more  elevated  than  the  cliffs  of  Brighton,  in  some 
places  white  and  chalky  in  appearaace.  But  nothing  can  be  more 
picturesque  than  the  Moro,  and  tho  entrance  into  a  beautiful  and 
extensive  harbour.  At  a  distance  whe  hill  upon  which  the  Cabanos 
fortress  stands  has  a  resemblance  to  what  is  called  the  Look-out 
at  Weymouth ;  but,  as  you  near  it,  it  has  a  much  more  rugged 
appearance,  and  it  is  as  if  rent  and  cloven  by  volcanic  action.  A 
Moorish-looking  battery,  or  wall,  standing  upon  each  fragment,  it 
looks  a  very  strong  place.  I  must  not  sketch  here  without  special 
permission  from  the  Capitan-Generale.  I  never  saw  anj  harbour 
filled  by  a  more  interesting  assemblage  of  ships.  English  men-of 
war  (my  heart  jumped  at  the  sight  of  that  flag),  a  very  fine  Span- 
ish steamer,  the  Princeion,  a  handsome  American,  and  many  of 
their  schooners  which  are  so  specially  airy  and  graceful.  By-the- 
by,  at  Key  West,  I  saw  a  Governmental  United  States  schooner 
with  three  masts,  which  was  to  me  a  new  kind  nf  craft.  A  boat, 
containing  a  messenger  from  Madame  Almy's  boarding-house,  took 
us  on  shore  towards  the  bright,  gay,  Spanish-looking  town.  We 
were  detained  for  half  an  hour  in  a  cool,  clean  building,  with  iron 
railings  on  one  side,  through  which  peeped  Spanish  and  negro 
and  mulatto  eyes,  eager  to  seek  employment  in  carrying  baggago 

for  strangers.     Mr.  P and  I  walked  up  to  the  hotel.     From 

the  descriptions  I  have  read  of  Spain  and  Italy,  I  should  suppose 
its  appearance  and  our  reception  such  as  I  should  expect  at  Se- 
ville or  Cordova.  A  fine  English-looking  coach,  with  gaudy  ham- 
mercloth,  had  its  domicile  on  the  ground-floor.  It  belongs  to  the 
mistress  of  the  mansion,  who  occupies  it  during  her  evening  drive 
on  the  Pasco,    8he  speaks  f)ngUsh,  being  Anglo-American  born, 


V 


THE  ANTI-SLAVERY   MOVEMENT. 


243 


stones  that  I 
ards  remained 
ving  light  of  a 
as  soon  as  the 
charming  run 
nd  tho  elegant 
[n  general  out* 
lan  I  expected ; 
ghton,  in  some 
ng  can  be  more 
I  beautiful  and 
ich  the  Cabanos 
id  the  Look-out 
jh  more  rugged 
mio  action.    A 
ich  fragment,  it 
i  without  special 
aw  anj  harbour 
English  men-of 
very  fine  Span- 
in,  and  many  of 
iceful.     By-the- 
States  schooner 
craft.     A  boat, 
ding-house,  took 
ting  town.    We 
ilding,  with  iron 
,nish  and  negro 
arrying  baggago 
le  hotel.     From 
should  suppose 
lid  expect  at  Se- 
(irith  gaudy  ham- 
It  belongs  to  the 
or  evening  drive 
-American  borD, 


and  Cuban  by  marriage.  Ladylike  in  manner  and  deportment,  she 
takes  her  post  in  the  society  of  her  house,  and  manages  tho  concern 
with  the  assistance  of  a  housekeeper.  Tho  rooms  are  comfortable, 
and  the  table  is  well  served.  The  interior  h.  .d  out  in  open  galleries, 
and  high  rooms  with  painted  cornices  and  ceilings,  have  the  look 
and  arrangement  (I  imagine)  of  an  old  Spanish  palace.  In  the  even- 
ing, Mr.  P took  me  a  drive  in  a  volante  round  the  town  and  its 

environs.  After  all  I  had  heard  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  habit», 
dress,  and  social  customs  of  the  Cubans,  still  I  was  surprised;  for 
it  appears  to  me  that  Havana  is  more  Spanish,  more  Moorish, 
more  unlike  Europe,  and  resembling  more  what  I  fancy  Spain 
might  have  been  in  the  time  of  Charies  V.  than  anything  my 
imagination  conceived.  The  wheels  of  the  volantes  were  higher 
md  more  eccentric.  The  negro  drivers,  in  their  costume  and 
jack-boots,  surpassed  the  old  French  postilions.  The  ladies,  in 
full-dress  evening  gowns,  decolletees,  short-sleeved,  and  coif^es, 
as  if  for  a  London  evening  parity.  The  houses  flat-roofed,  many- 
coloured,  and  Moorish-looking ;  the  trees  generally  new  to  me, 
and  the  flowers  strange;  the  horses,  with  their  plaited  tails  tucked 
up  on  one  side,  stiff  and  inelegant ;  negro  soldiers  in  straw  hats, 
and  mulatto  women  in  gay  turbans ;  all  this,  added  to  unknown 
tongues,  and  a  splendid  southern  sky,  mystified  me,  and  made  me 
feel  dreamy,  as  I  had  never  felt  before ;  and  yet  I  have  looked  at 
some  accounts  of  Cuba,  and  read  Cuba  as  It  Is.  I  wonder 
whether  anybody  ever  did  acquire  clear  ideas  of  distant  countries 
and  strange  manners  by  reading,  or  by  hearing  of  them. 

There  are  many  more  African-looking  negroes  here  than  m 
the  Southern  States  of  America.  Perhaps  the  Anti-Slavery 
movement,  although  mistaken  in  its  objects,  may  have  providen- 
tially intended  to  roice  and  educate  an  improved  negro  race  with- 
out  fresh  importation,  for  the  purpose  of  ultimately  civilizing  and 
Christianizing  Africa.  I  don't  think  that  negroes  from  Cuba 
would  be  likely  to  regenerate  or  improve  their  race.  I  believe, 
on  good  authority,  that  the  free  blacks  here  are  profligate  and  ir- 
religious ;  and  they  look  far  less  happy  than  their  brethren  in 
wrvitude.     # 


244 


MRS.    ORAVFORD'8  RECEPTION. 


February,  29. — I  spent  tbo  greater  part  of  the  morning  bR^ 
gaining  for  some  articles  of  attire.  Shopping  here  is  condacted 
quite  after  a  Turkish  fashion ;  you  are  expected  to  bargain,  and 
consider,  and  discuss  for  an  liour,  before  you  conclude  a  purchase. 
Ladies  seldom  go  into  a  shop ;  the  best  part  of  its  contents  are 
brought  to  their  residences,  or  displayed  in  the  volantes  in  which 
they  drive  to  the  shop-door ;  and  three  times  the  price  intended 
to  be  taken  is  often  asked  in  the  first  place ;  then  the  buyer  offers 
three  times  less  than  she  intends  to  give,  and  at  last,  after  many 
objections  and  remonstrances  on  both  sides,  the  bargain  is  struck 
— a  sad  waste  of  time  and  profanation  of  truth ;  but  it  is  useless 

to  rebel  against  Spanish  custom.     Before  breakfast,  Q.  P 

took  me  out  walking  by  the  harbour  to  tho  market,  where  the 
brilliant-coloured  fish  and  the  strange-looking  fruits  were  very  in- 
teresting. I  was  surprised  to  see  great  pholases  (one  of  the 
boring  shell-fish)  as  an  article  of  food,  and  numerous  other  bi- 
valves which  did  not  look  tempting.  We  afterwards  visited  the 
garden  in  front  of  the  Capitan-Generale's  palace.  There  were 
fine  palm  trees,  which  at  first  I  mistook  for  dates.  I  am  quite 
puzzled  by  the  trees  bore,  as  they  are  so  strange ;  for,  though  we 
may  be  well  aoquahited  with  tropical  towers  in  our  hot-houses, 
tue  larger  products  are  of  course  less  known  to  us ;  and  as  yet  I 
have  found  no  one  here  who  can  give  me  botanical  information. 
The  Spaniards  are  accused  of  eradicating  trees  as  much  as  possi- 
ble ;  and  certainly  I  do  not  see  anything  like  groves  around 
Havana — only  avenues,  and  occasional  rows  of  p^lms.  Mrs. 
Orauford,  the  Consul's  lady,  will  have  a  pic-nic  to-morrow  in  the 
most  shady  garden  known  here,  because  it  is  a  deserted  residence. 

March  10. — Last  night  I  went  to  Mrs.  Crauford's  reception, 
in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  houses  I  have  yet  seen  here.  It  was 
built  by  a  wealthy  gentleman,  and  as  he  is  for  the  present  resid- 
ing with  his  wife  at  Paris,  he  has  let  his  house  to  the  BritisL  Con- 
sul. The  entrance  (like  tL  at  of  the  most  of  the  palaces  here; 
is  a  high,  Moorish-looking  hill,  with  aporte  cochere ;  from  this 
springs  a  fine,  geometrically-l)uilt  stone  staircaisc,  loading  first  to 
a  music-gallery ;  besides  other  rooms,  a  splendid  drawing-room 


jm 


▲   SPANISH   DOO. 


245 


and  anteroom,  the  one  with  an  ornamental  marble  floor,  the  other 
en  parquet,  of  &  pattern  elaborately  w)rked  in  various  woods; 
Pompeian  ceilings ;  a  beautifully  ornamented  dressing-room,  and 
a  bedroom  beyond — recherchces,  and  in  good  taste.  I  was  intro- 
duced to  all  our  naval  officers,  as  well  as  to  the  Americans  in 
harbour.  I  drove  there  and  back  in  a  volante  alfresco  ;  although 
in  an  evening  dress,  it  was  perfectly  warm  and  pleasant.  The 
interior  of  the  houses,  with  their  spacious  windows,  entrances 
open  to  view  and  well  lighted,  looked  gay  and  cheerful,  as  wo 
went — returning  at  half-past  ten,  I  was  not  quite  without  appre- 
hension, as  I  was  told  robberies  were  frequent  at  that  hour ;  how- 
ever, wo  safely  arrived  at  our  hotel  in  the  street  of  the  Inquisi- 
tor. In  my  room  everything  which  passes  out  of  doors  can  be 
distinguished,  and  the  noise  and  chattering  is  unceasing.  Last 
night  I  was  amused  to  hear  an  English  sailor  trying  to  compre- 
hend a  Spanish  companion;  it  seemed  evident  the  latter  had 
given  Jack  Tar  a  dog,  but  Jack  was  complaining  it  did  not  un- 
derstand English.  The  Spaniard  said  something  in  reply,  and 
then  Jack  rolled  down  the  street  vociferating  *  Venga  Cane — 
venga  Cane ! '  In  the  morning,  I  heard  au  American  gentleman 
declaring  that  something  he  was  asked  to  do  would  be  '  as  much 
trouble  as  taking  charge  of  a  lady.'  I  rose  early,  and  while  sit- 
ting writing  near  the  large  open  window  of  my  room,  in  the  high- 
est of  these  low  houses  (it  has  a  stone  balcony,  with  a  strong  iron 
grating  upon  the  external  edge,  closed  at  the  top,  so  that  nothing 
can  ever  fall  out),  I  suddenly  sa?/  a  tall  broom,  like  those  used  by 
housemaids  for  lofty  halls  in  England,  swaying  about  within  my 
grating ;  in  a  moment  it  swept  off  a  little  flower-pot,  and  dashed 
it  to  atoms  in  the  street  below.  I  rushed  to  see  the  cause  of 
this  invasion,  and  there  stood  a  tall  soldier,  looking  first  at  the 
fragments  and  then  at  me,  with  an  expression  of  grief  on  his 
countenance  that  was  undoubted ;  so  I  looked  as  benignant  as  I 
could,  but  this  flower-pot  contained  a  very  rare,  if  not  new  fern, 
I  had  discovered  near  Ocala ;  and  all  the  way  from  Florida,  I 
have  brought  it  on  my  lap,  with  some  pains  and  trouble,  in  hopes 
of  taking  it,  growing,  across  the  Atlaniic ;  but  it  would  probably 


246 


rio-Hio. 


have  perished,  sooner  or  later,  and  perhaps  sadden  death  wat 
better  than  a  lingering  one.  This  exterior  dusting  must  be  ne- 
cessary here,  where  almost  all  the  windows  and  balconies  are  cor- 
ed  by  iron  gratings :  they  give  rather  a  prison-like  look  to  the 
houses,  but  as  the  windows  and  entrances  are  each  from  t'.renty 
to  thirty  feet  high,  extending  from  the  roofs  to  the  ground,  or 
within  three  feet  of  it,  having  only  lattices  within,  and  no  glass, 
so  much  light  is  admitted  that  there  is  no  gloom.  Any  of  the 
houses  in  this  town  might  be  used  as  a  fortress,  they  are  so  strong 
and  massive. 

We  had  a  very  pleasant  pic-nio  party  yesterday,  given  by  MrS" 
Grauford,  in  what  is  called  by  custom  the  Bishop's  Garden— or 
*  Quinta  del  Obispo ' — ^but  it  belongs  to  the  Oonde  de  Penalver ;  he 
having  built  a  residence  in  Havana,  does  not  make  use  of  his  pretty 
villa.  The  house  is  a  ruin,  and  the  garden  neglected ;  but  this 
last  circumstance  makes  it  more  interesting  in  a  botanical  point 
of  view,  as  plants  are  to  be  found  there  which,  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  would  have  been  destroyed ;  I  found  many  trea- 
sures, some  of  them  valuable  seeds.  Immediately  after  my  re- 
turn home,  Mr.  Crauford  came  to  take  me  to  the  Capitan-Gene- 
rale's.  His  palace  is  eastern-looking,  like  all  the  edifices  here. 
Upon  going  into  the  reception-room,  I  saw  about  twelve  chairs  on 
each  side  opposite  one  another  across  the  room,  a  space  of  three 
or  four  yards  between — one  row  for  gentleman  visitors,  and  the 
other  for  ladies.  Madame  dc  Concha  soon  came  in  alone,  dressed 
simply  in  morning  costume ;  after  a  little,  the  Oapitan-Generale 
followed,  and  I  was  glad  of  his  arrival,  as  I  could  not  speak 
Spanish,  nor  Madame  French,  so  the  Consul  was  obliged  to  act 
as  interpreter  between  us.  The  Capitan-Generale  is  a  quiet- 
mannered,  gentlemanly  person ;  he  sat  down  by  me,  and  wc  con- 
versed for  some  time  in  French,  he  obligingly  promising  the  ne- 
cessary permits  for  travelling  here  and  sketching— saying  '  Nous 
ne  sommes  pas  des  tyrans  ici  1 '  He  assured  me  of  his  anxiety 
for  the  success  of  England  in  the  present  war,  biit  expressed 
doubts  of  the  result ;  and  he  imaginea  the  straggle  will  be  a  long 
one.    The  Spaniards  do  not  believe  the  English  imderstand  fight 


THE   COOLIES. 


247 


;xe  will  De  a  long 


ing,  which  is  odd  enough  when  the  attles  of  the  Spanish  cam« 
paigns  of  Napoleon  must  be  fresh  in  their  recollection.  While 
the  Capitan-Generale  was  talking  with  me,  several  gentlemen  en- 
tered and  1  laced  themselves  on  the  chairs  opposite,  after  mutual 
bows ;  and  when  I  thought  our  visit  long  enough,  I  made  my 
courtesy,  and  we  departed.  Mons.  and  Madame  de  Concha  were, 
for  a  short  time,  in  England — I  believe  as  exiles.  Madame  is 
sister  to  the  Duquesa  de  la  Vittoria.  When  I  came  back  to  the 
Hotel,  Governor  and  Mrs.  Fish  came  to  see  me ;  they  have  just 
returned  from  an  expedition  into  the  interior.  I  am  afraid  I  • 
sliall  not  have  completed  my  little  tour  here  in  time  to  embark 
with  them  in  the  next  passage  of  the  Black  Warrior,  for  New 
Orleans.  While  I  am  writing,  I  see  two  mulatto  women  with 
cups  in  their  hands,  standing  at  the  great,  wide,  coach-house  look- 
ing door  opposite  ;  they  are  sharing  their  breakfast  with  a  negro; 
and  now  two  or  three  more  come  to  gossip  with  them.  This  is 
the  way  all  of  black  race  like  to  eat ;  they  never  villingly  sit  down 
to  a  regular  meal — they  prefer  carrying  their  food  about,  and 
taking  it  at  irregular  hours.  Nothing  eatable  s  safe  from  their 
depredations,  and  this  not  from  hunger,  for  they  are  alwaja 
plentifully  fed,  but  from  their  monkey-like  habits.  Mrs.  Almy 
tells  me  no  one  unaccustomed  can  judge  of  the  annoyance  it  is 
to  be  served  by  negroes,  and  that  she  shall  bless  the  day  when 
she  is  enabled  to  return,  perhaps  to  England,  where  sho  will  no 
longer  be  tormented  by  slave  labour.  I  believe  this  to  be  the 
general  feeling  of  ma^^^crs  and  mistresses  in  the  southern  coun-  ' 
tries.  For  their  sakes,  I  wish  I  could  have  hopes  that  rice,  cot- 
ton, and  sugar  may,  soioe  of  these  days,  be  generally  cultivated 
by  free  labou/  !  I  firmly  believe  the  boon  will  be  greater  to  the 
whites  than  to  the  blacks  themselves ;  but  I  fear  blacks  alone  (in 
the  long  run)  can  endure  wovk  under  a  tropical  sun. 

The  Coolies  are  a  miserable  race ;  they  perform  less  work,  but 
are  the  slaves  of  slave: — it  remains  to  be  seen  whether  they  can 
long  endure.  I  do  not  think  people  in  England  have  any  idea  ot 
the  idleness  which  charaoterizes  the  black  people.  Unless  forced  to 
oxertiou  they  will  lounge  about  for  hours,  aimless  and  unoccupied 


248 


V0LANTE8. 


yet  they  rise  with  the  sun.  For  three  hours  this  mornings  since 
I  got  up,  these  women  have  been  lolloping  and  gossiping  in  my 
sight,  and  there  they  will  be  until  they  find  the  heat  too  great 
for  this  kind  of  enjoyment.  Whether  they  have  masters  or  mis- 
tresses I  cannot  tell ;  but  the  house  is  large,  and  apparently  well 
furnished ;  and  yet  these  people  arc  idling  there  from  morning  till 
night,  unless  the  sun  drives  them  in  occasionally.  One  hardly 
ever  sees  a  bonnet  worn  here,  and  I  am  beginning  to  do  without, 
by  means  of  a  cap  and  a  black  veil — to  avoid  being  stare  "*  at.  The 
first  day  I  thought  the  omission  impossible,  but  general  custom 
soon  reconciles  one ;  and  yesterday  I  went  in  an  open  volante,  a 
league  into  the  country,  m  such  a  dress  as  in  England  I  should 
only  wear  in  the  evening,  with  a  black  veil  added. 

The  volantes  are  a  singular  choice  for  the  prevailing  vehicles 
in  such  narrow  streets.  They  are  so  long  and  so  wide  that  it  is 
impossible  to  turn ;  so  one  set  go  down  one  street  and  up  the 
the  next.  Of  course  if  a  horse  falls,  the  t*yo  wheels  only  rre  very 
awkward,  but  they  say  the  poor  beast  generally  lies  still,  and  you 
have  time  to  escape.  Sometimes  one  carriage  or  cart  stops  the 
way,  and  there  you  must  sit  in  patience  as  long  as  it  may  please 
these  inert  people  to  dawdle ;  although  the  least  energy  would 
make  way,  they  never  think  it  worth  while  to  be  in  a  hurry. 

Matanzas,  March  14. — At  last  I  am  really  sensible  of  being 
in  a  tropical  climate !     I  have  slept  in  a  room  with  an  open  win- 
dow (as  large  as  our  house  doors),  on  a  thin  sacking  couch  with- 
out mattrass,  pillows  as  hard  as  bricks,  only  a  thin  muslin  cover- 
let, protected  by  a  mosquito-net ;  and  after  sleeping  soundly  from 
nine  o'clock  till  three,  I  am  writing  by  candle-light,  stars  shining 
outside ;  the  moon  will  be  in  abeyance  till  we  cross  the  sea  to 
New  Orleans,  having  fully  done  her  duty  during  our  last  voyage. 
Last  night  I  remained  from  sunset  upon  a  kind  of  piazza  at  the 
top  of  this  house,  to  watch  for  the  *  Southern  Cross.'    I  saw  it 
rise  rather  to  the  east  of  south ;  it  then  seemed  to  leave  gradually 
westward,  before  it  sank  in  the  horizon,  about  in  a  line  with 
Orion,  which  was  gloriously  bright  almost  over  our  heads.    The 
9reat  Bear  appears  to  me  topsy-turvy,  and  become:3  quite  a  seo 


■|r.^<iit 


MATAKZAS. 


249 


OSS.'    I  saw  it 


ondary  constellation  here,  and  the  Cross  is  only  dimly  seen^ 
because  we  are  not  far  enough  within  the  Tropics  to  catch  more 
than  a.  glimpse  of  it.  The  two  upper  stars  look  fine :  the  two 
Bide  onea  more  distant  from  each  other  than  I  expected;  the  low- 
est faint,  and  not  quite  in  a  straight  line  with  the  upper  ones. 
The  British  Consul,  Mr.  Da  Costa,  was  very  polite  in  coming 
immediately;  and  he  remained  and  aided  me  to  discover  the 
Cross.  The  master  is  a  Spaniard  of  the  old  country,  who  speaks 
French  readily  and  a  little  English,  besides  Spanish.  Upon  our 
first  arrival  there  was  a  long  parler  carried  on  in  several  lan- 
guages by  the  party  from  Havana,  which  consisted  of  R and 

me,  three  American  gentlemen,  all  old  acquaintai.  ces  of  mine,  one 
Englishman  who  crossed  with  us  in  the  Isabel,  and  who  was  in- 
troduced to  me  by  Mr.  Molyneux,  at  Savannah,  a  Cuban,  and  a 
Spaniard.  It  was  difficult  to  apportion  the  sleeping-rooms  opien- 
ing  out  upon  an  interior  but  external  gallery,  so  that  no  one 
might  interfere  with  another,  and  the  poor  signer  was  almost  in 
a  fever  before  that  arrangement  was  complete.  My  little  nest 
has  a  fine  view  to  the  west.     I  bribed  an  ancient  black  with  one 

eye  to  wipe  the  floors  for  me,  and  for  11 ,  next  room,  with 

fresh  water,  which  cooled  them  considerably;  and  we  are  now 
well  lodged,  without  a  creeping  thing  of  any  kind  among  us. 

This  is  a  very  pretty  town ;  the  sea  runs  into  a  deep  bay, 
filled  by  ships  of  many  nations,  come  to  be  laden  with  sugar ;  it 
is  a  cleaner  place  than  Havana,  and  the  blacks  and  mulattos  less 
numerous.  I  did  not  leave  the  house  last  evening,  but  occupied 
myself  in  making  a  sketch  of  the  bay  from  hence.  We  left  Ha- 
vana by  the  six  o'clock  train  the  day  before  yesterday ;  reached 
Guines  by  nine;  went  to  see  a  cave  in  a  chalky  hill  three  miles 
from  the  village — a  fatiguing  and  difficult  expedition,  but  I  found 
numerous  flowers  known  in  our  gardens  and  hot-houses ;  among 
them  the  pretty  Asclepias  tuberosa,  Ipomoeas  c  all  colours  and 
sizes,  a  lilac,  a  scilla,  a  solamena,  and  other  tb  ags  new  to  me,  and 
the  whole  country  was  dotted  over  by  cocoa-nut  trees.  That 
neighbourhood  has  little  other  foliage,  although  during  our  jour- 
ney by  rail  I  saw  fine  mango  and  other  trees — among  them  a 


250 


MATAMZAS. 


palmetto  as  tall  as  the  Chamaerops  of  Florida ;  it  looks  something 
like  the  same  species.  We  passed  many  haciendas,  the  plauta* 
tions  belonging  to  which  were  in  high  cultivation,  great  herds  ol 
cattle  and  many  horses  feeding  about  them ;  and  there  were  tall 
chimneys  indicating  steam-engines  for  crushing  sugar. 

On  Sunday  last,  we  went  to  the  service  on  board  the  Vestal, 
commanded  by  Captain  Thompson,  then  moored  in  the  harbour 
of  Havana ;  the  Buzzard  steamer  left  a  day  or  two  before,  and 
the  Argus  will  remain,  while  the  Vestal  is  expected  at  this  place. 
It  is  curious  to  hear  the  watchmen  belonging  to  the  towns  in  Cuba. 
They  sing  out  the  hours  and  the  state  of  the  weather  in  a  stento- 
rian tone,  always  preceding  their  announcement  by  a  shrill  and 
prolonged  whistle.  I  observe  that  their  voices  are  tuned  nearly 
to  the  same  intervals,  though  of  course  one  is  rather  more  musi- 
cal than  another.  A  thick  fog  obscures  the  view  this  morning — 
it  was  the  same  yesterday ;  it  indicates  that  the  day  will  be  a  hot 
one.  Yesterday  the  thermometer  stood  at  86*^,  unusually  high  for 
this  month,  but  I  do  not  find  the  heat  so  oppressive  as  when  at 
80°  in  England. 

Matanzas  is  situated  in  an  almost  circular  basin,  formed  by 
low  hills  of  a  nearly  even  height,  except  when  broken  Jby  a  chasm 
through  which  flows  the  River  Yamorri — to  the  north-west.  The 
houses,  like  tliose  of  Havana,  are  almost  all  low,  having  usually 
not  more  than  one,  or  at  most  two  storeys,  some  of  them  with 
flat  roofs,  and  others  heavily  tiled  by  circular  shaped  tiles,  as  if 
rows  of  chimney-pots  were  strung  together,  and  laid  half  a  foot 
apart.  In  a  garden  just  below  my  window  I  see  a  magnificent 
Oleander,  and  a  fine  yellow  Bignonia  {stans  F),  in  full  bloom.  I 
heard  an  amusing  anecdote  with  reference  to  botanical  ignorance ; 
as  a  lady  had  heard  the  name  of  Hedysarum  gyrans,  next  day  she 
gravely  informed  a  gentleman,  'that  plant  is  the  harum  scarum 
gatherum.'  So  'ittle  attention  is  paid  to  natural  history  here, 
that  I  can  get  no  xssistance  as  to  the  botanical  names  of  either 
trees,  flowers,  or  shru  '«?,  and  as  many  of  the  former  are  yet  without 
bloom,  it  is  difficult  to  aiake  them  out  even  with  the  assistance 
of  Loudon  *  it  is  the  same  with  out-of-the-way  fruits— o^e  is  a 


COOOA-NGTS. 


25] 


pappy  and  another  is  a  mammy ,  and  60  on ;  but  the  local  teims 
do  not  help  one  the  least. 

Mr.  Da  Costa,  the  Consul,  was  so  obliging  as  to  take  us  an 
interesting  drive  last  evening  up  heights  to  the  north-east,  from 
whence  I  was  able  to  sketch  the  Pau  of  Mataiiza,  and  a  fine  valley 
beneath,  dotted  in  all  directions  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  but  I  ob- 
served few  trees  of  any  other  kind.  By  a  road  impracticable  for 
any  other  vehicle  than  a  volante,  with  its  giant  wheels,  we  reached 
a  villa  and  plantation  belonging  to  one  of  the  proprietors  here. 
The  foliage  all  round  appeared  so  strange;  Tree  Euphorbias, 
Shrubby  Cactus,  immense  Cannas,  and  thickets  of  Coffee,  Bana- 
nas, &c.  For  the  first  time  I  saw  cocoa-nuts ;  some  were  gathered, 
and  I  drank  some  of  the  juice  which  looked  like  clear  water,  and 
tasted  nearly  the  same,  with  a  slight  sovpgon  of  sugar.  I  was  quite 
surprised  to  see  a  green  nut  (placed  with  a  hole  in  it  over  a  tum- 
bler) pouring  forth  such  a  bright,  innocent-looking  liquid.  I 
supposed  it  would  always  have  a  milky  hue.  The  nuts  enlarge 
by  degrees;  but  it  was  a  long  time  before  I  could  find  out  which 
of  the  palms  was  the  true  cocoa-nut  tree.  Some  said  this  was,  and 
others  doubted,  and  said  it  was  a  tree  resemblsng  the  one  that 
produces  the  nut,  whereas,  there  is  only  that  single  cocoa  that  I 
have  yet  seen  here.  There  are  tall  Arecas  and  Palmettos,  which 
are  probably  the  same  as  those  of  Florida ;  and  there  is  the  Date 
{PhoBTiiz),  and  the  Sago  Palm,  and  Bactris,  but  two  kinds  of 
cocoas  I  have  not  yet  seen  here.  At  this  plantation  of  Mr.  Jinks's 
I  for  the  first  time  saw  sugar  crushing.  It  was,  in  this  instance, 
not  done  by  steam,  but  by  horses  and  mules,  negro  boys  sitting 
as  postilions,  laughing  and  shouting,  and  the  whole  affair  having 
such  a  wild,  unearthly  look,  though  it  seemed  a  case  of  enjoyment 
to  all  except  the  poor  beasts  concerned  in  this  kind  of  merry-go- 
round,  that  I  could  fancy  the  employment  might  have  been  se- 
lected by  Dante  for  one  of  the  punishments  of  his  Inferno.  The 
driver,  who  received  us  and  showed  us  every  hospitality,  was  a 
handsome,  good-humoured,  intelligent-looking  Cuban  Creole.  At 
Guines,  where  I  saw  a  large  plantation,  all  the  sugar  was  distilling 
for  rum,  a  spirit  which  bears  a  high  price  at  this  mcmcnt,  and  is 


252 


TAHOBEI. 


ill 


therefore  more  profitable  than  sugar.  Goolios  were  employed 
there  as  well  as  negroes,  but  they  do  not  seem  equally  fitted  for 
labour,  and  are  more  to  be  pitied  than  the  negro  slaves,  for  their 
masters  are  indifierent  about  their  comfort.  The  sun  set  as  a 
more  magnificent  globe  of  fire  than  I  had. ever  before  seen  it. 
There  was  just  enough  twilight  when  we  left  the  plantation  for 
me  to  watch  that  we  went  safely  down  a  long  and  steep  white 
chalky  descent  into  the  valley  below ;  and  I  regretted  that  after- 
wards I  could  see  nothing  of  the  beauties  of  our  drive,  excepting 
fire-flies,  which  sparkled  among  the  aloes,  and  yuccas,  and  coffee 
bushes,  as  we  proceeded  along  track,  which,  if  the  Consul  and 
the  other  gentleman  on  horseback  had  not  assured  me  was  free 
from  danger,  I  should  have  thought  could  hardly  have  been  safely 
traversed ;  but  with  the  exception  of  every  now  and  then  sinking 
in  ruts,  and  passing  over  rocks,  large  enough  to  have  overset  an 
English  vehicle,  we  had  no  difficulties,  and  the  negro  postilion 
and  his  two  little  white  horses,  appeared  quite  at  their  ease.  We 
passed  by  two  haciendas,  in  our  road  to  the  pass  through  the 
Yamorri  River  makes  its  way  to  the  town,  and  into  the  sea  beyond. 
The  name  *  Yamorri '  is  by  tradition  derived  from  the  dying  ex- 
clamation of  a  native  warrior  who  fell  into  the  stream.  It  doea 
not  seem  very  deep.  Another  river  flows  along  the  opposite  side 
of  this  place,  and  there  is  also  the  Cardinas  a  short  distance  down 
the  coast  to  the  south,  but  I  believe  none  of  them  are  navigable. 
I  have  lost  time  here  in  looking  about,  owing  to  the  early  morn- 
ings having  been  thick  and  foggy  ever  since  we  came,  an  unusual 
circumstance.  It  is  too  hot  to  stir  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and 
the  evenings  are  very  short,  so  that  I  shall  accomplish  less  here 
in  four  days  than  I  should  do  in  two  elsewhere. 

Matanzas,  March  16. — I  saw  some  nice  plants  in  small  gar- 
dens yesterday.  The  Copaiba  is  a  very  pretty  tree,  and  I  hope 
to  get  a  bulb  of  a  gigantic  lily,  some  Crinum  or  Amaryllis,  which 
they  tell  me  has  a  purple  and  white  flower.  A  Ceanothus-looking 
shrub  has  here  the  name  of  tree  mignonette  from  its  fragrance. 
I  went  in  a  volante  to  draw  from  the  Yamorri  Pass.  There  arc 
^ves  in  the  cretaceous  rocks  above,  one  of  which  is  so  extensive 


ARRANGEMENTS. 


25S 


that  it  is  believed  to  pass  under  the  whole  of  the  town  of  Ma 
tanzas.  Looking  up  fi'om  below,  I  saw  some  stalactitic  pillars 
supporting  rocks  above.  I  sketclicd  one  of  them.  In  some 
places  here  the  rocks  look  as  if  they  had  all  been  submitted  to 
the  action  of  fire,  and  this  more  completely  than  in  Florida ;  for 
iu  these  I  see  no  organic  remains.  I  think  they  must  all  have 
been  burnt  up,  while  at  Ocala  they  seem  only  to  have  been  warmed 
up.  I  suppose  Cuba  to  be  older  land  than  the  most  southern 
part  of  the  United  States,  although  from  Havana  to  Matanzas,  I 
see  only  cretaceous  formations — but  coal  is  founc^  not  very  distant 
from  Havana,  and  the  hundreds  of  miles  fartb-r  south  rJlow  space 
enough  for  anything.  This  morning  I  am  going  to  t  plantation 
a  few  miles  down  the  coast,  south ;  to-morrow  we  returu  i,o  Havana, 
and  I  shall  have  one  more  week  there  before  :i  '^'^sing  over  to  l\^vr 
Orleans. 

Your  affectionate 

A.  M.  M. 


H  » 


LETTER  XXL 


Matanzas,  Cuba,  i 
3Iarch  17, 1866.     f 

Bii  DEAR  Friends, — 

I  hope  the  letter  which  I  sent  oiF  yesterday  will  leave  Ha- 
vantk  by  this  day's  mail;  it  is  impossible  to' be  certain  that  all  I 
write  reaches  you,  but  I  generally  send  packets  by  the  best  oppor- 
tunities. I  have  not  always  time  to  read  over  my  communica- 
tions, and  never  to  copy  them,  so  I  shall  be  sorry  if  any  are  lost, 
as  they  will  be  such  a  refreshment  to  my  memory  at  home.  After 
closing  my  lettfrs  yesterday  morning,  I  set  off  in  a  volante  very 
early,  and  had  a  beautiful  drive  by  the  sea  shore  to  a  plantation 


called 


the  residence  of  Monsieur 


The  finest  view  I 


have  yet  seen  of  Matanzas  is  from  a  point  about  a  mile  out  of  the 

town,  along  the  southern  coast.     Mr.  J- was  so  obliging  as  to 

accompany  me  part  of  the  way  on  horseback ;  and  as  I  soon  got 
out  of  the  carriage  to  gather  flowers  and  pick  up  shells,  I  was 
quickly  attracted  by  the  nature  of  the  rocks,  which  here  border  a 
sandy  beach :  there  were  fossil  corals,  and  organisms  in  great  va- 
riety, close  to  the  sea.  On  a  hill  beyond,  I  found  innumerable 
shells ;  bullas  nearly  as  perfect  as  the  recent  ones  on  the  shore 
below ;  then  evident  marks  of  volcanic  action ;  then  chalk  resem- 
bling that  at  Ocala,  with  occasional  fossil  remains ;  higher  up  still, 
but  not  distant  more  than  a  few  hundred  yards,  I  saw  a  coarse 
kind  of  white  freestone,  which  negro  workmen  wore  quarrying  out 


HONSIBUa 


S  PLAItTATION. 


255 


in  large  blocks  for  building  materials ;  then  the  road  became  ex* 
actly  like  the  bed  of  a  former  river,  although  still  rising  a  hill; 
it  was  little  else  but  boulders  and  water-worn  stones,  which  in 
England  would  have  been  considered  impracticable  for  u  carriage; 
but  neither  the  calecero,  his  little  thin  white  horses,  nor  the  vo- 
laDte,  made  any  objection  to  jumbling  over  them ;  the  high,  strong 
wheels  mounted  up  and  leaped  down,  without  damage;  and  I 
could  only  hold  tight,  and  wonder  how  horses  and  vehicle  kept 
together.     Before  we  reached  the  plantation,  the  soil  was  a  rich 

iron-sand,  just  like  that  at  Abbotsbury.     M. told  me  that 

this  soil  had  produced  twenty  crops  of  sugar-cane  in  succession 
without  artificial  aid.  As  usual,  I  met  with  a  kind  and  hospitable 
reception ;  a  broad  avenue  of  Palms  and  Orange  trees  led  up  to 
the  house ;  a  black  nurse  was  in  a  verandah,  with  the  one  little 

boy  of  two  years,  and  Madame immediately  came  out  and 

took  me  into  a  comfortable  drawing-room,  opening  at  once  from 
the  front.  The  verandah  was  nearly  covered  by  the  eatable  pas- 
sion-flower {Passijlora  grandilla),  and  M. ,  who  was  for  some 

time  in  England,  must  have  had  English  gardens  and  groves  in 
his  mind,  while  planting  the  trees  of  his  own  country,  instead  of 
imitating  the  Spanish  fashion  of  underrating  them.  The  refresh- 
ing verdure  of  our  lawns  is  beyond  attainment  within  the  Tropics, 
but  he  has  selected  trees  and  shrubs  having  r&ference  to  ornament 
as  well  as  use;  with  oranges  and  pcineganates,  and  fruits,  the 
names  of  which  I  have  still  I .  learn,  he  has  associated  a  loquat, 
Mespilus  (or  Eisohotria  Japonica),  with  the  elegant  foliage  of 
the  palm  and  bamboo,  and  the  pretty  weeping  fir  (which  I  never 
saw  before,  but  suppose  to  be  a  Cryptomeria),  making  the  middle 
distance  unusual  in  appearance,  and  I  tried,  rather  unsuccessfully, 

to  sketch  it.     M. ordered  a  volante,  and  took  me  to  a  forest 

about  a  mile  from  his  house,  where  I  saw  all  kinds  of  novelties — 
among  them  a  Heliotrope  smelling  like  Jasmine,  and  a  pricMy 
shrub  with  a  holly-shaped  leaf,  and  flower  resembling  a  Dryandra, 
only  I  never  heard  of  one  of  that  family,  except  as  Australians. 
To  avoid  being  knocked  down  by  a  large  herd  of  horses  and  oseu, 
who  were  eagerly  galloping  down  to  the  Biver  Coheinva,  a  fine 


256 


SYMPATHY  WITH  THE  CUBANS. 


stream,  when  we  readied  it,  M. placed  me  upon  a  banL, 

where  the  wild  scene  below  could  be  witnessed  without  inconven- 
ience. All  the  animals  plunging  and  swimming  about,  while  ne- 
gro boys,  looking  just  like  bronze  statues,  leaped  now  on  a  horse, 
sometimes  from  a  horse  to  an  ox,  and  then  into  the  water;  or 
diving  down,  they  made  their  appearance  unexpectedly  in  the 
very  midst  of  the  beasts.  I  was  not  inclined  to  descend  from  my 
elevation  till  the  whole  assemblage,  having  drunk  and  bathed  to 
their  satisfaction,  galloped  off. 

This  river  is  wide  and  deep  enough  to  float  a  seventy-fouv, 
and,  as  there  is  very  little  bar  at  the  mouth,  under  any  other 
kind  of  government  it  would  be  made  navigable.  It  is  impossible 
to  visit  Cuba  without  being  struck  by  the  fact  that  its  resources 
are  undeveloped,  and  its  improvement  prevented  by  mismanage- 
ment. My  sympathy  cannot  but  go  with  the  Cubans,  who  are 
anxious  for  some  improvement,  although  some  political  prisoners 
are  likely  to  be  put  out  of  the  way  by  strangulation  for  evincing 
an  impatient  spirit  under  tho  iron  despotism  by  which  they  are 
ruled.  My  compassionate  foeiiogs  are  roused,  so  with  every  in- 
clination for  the  support  of  authority,  I  cannot  but  wish  that 
Europe  may  aid,  instead  of  opposing,  the  ultimate  freedom  of 
thLs  fine  island — fine,  at  least,  as  to  natural  productions,  but  in 
great  part  rendered  unproductive  by  the  tyranny  and  ignorance 
of  man.  I  observe  many  iud 'cations  of  Spanish  cruelty,  particu- 
larly towards  animals.  Slaves  are  pretty  well  treated,  because 
their  well-being  is  a  matter  of  dollars  in  the  pockets  of  their 
masters ;  but  one  sees  chickens  tied  up  alive  by  their  legs  in  the 
markets,  and  one  hears  of  bull-fights  and  cock-fights  attended 
even  by  women.  These  things  exemplify  the  character  of  a  peo- 
ple, and  show  how  backward  their  civilization  is.  I  spent  tho 
day  with  my  pleasant  hosts,  and  M. was  so  good  as  to  ac- 
company mo  back  to  Matanzas  after  dark,  although  he  thus  ex- 
posed himself  to  a  double  night  journey  over  the  rocky  track, 
which  I  can  hardly  call  a  road :  however,  wc  jumbled  safely  back, 

and  I  went  immediately  to  Mr.  Russel  J ,  as  Mrs.  J had 

been  anxious  about  my  safe  return.     Mr.  J promises  to  for 


RBTmiN  TO   HAVANA. 


257 


its  resources 


ward  my  collection  of  this  day  at  once  to  England,  for  it  alone 
will  fill  a  box,  with  shells,  fossils,  plants,  and  seeds.  I  found! 
some  difficulty  in  tearing  myself  away  from  such  an  interesting 
locality,  where  I  have  not  seen  half  I  should  like  to  see.  Not 
very  far  from  the  pass  of  the  Yamorri,  I  understand  there  is  still 
an  Indian  sacrificial  altar.  None  of  the  aboriginal  race  are  now 
left  on  the  island :  they  have  faded  away  before  the  more  intelli- 
gent white  men,  and  perhaps  it  may  be,  in  the  course  of  Provi- 
dence, that  Anglo-Saxon  energy  is  ono  of  these  days  to  supersede 
Creole  inertness  and  Spanish  cruelty. 

March  17. — I  went  by  railroad  back  to  Havana,  and  this  time 
I  tried  to  settle  the  controversy  which  has  been  waging  in  my 
mind  between  the  two  palms  most  common  here.  It  is  evident 
that  the  real  cocoa-nut  has  a  less  smooth  bark  and  a  more  plu- 
mose, falling  foliage  than  that  tree  with  the  smooth  white  stem 
and  stiffer  leaves,  most  common  all  about  the  country ;  the  latter 
bears  a  smaller  nut,  with  which  pigs  are  fed,  instead  of  the  true 
cocoa-nut :  and  a  gentleman  I  met  last  night  says  the  former  is 
called  here  the  Royal  Palm,  and  that  it  is  not  a  cocoa  at  all.  I 
shall  find  out  its  botanical  designation  at  last.  I  suspect  it  is 
what  I  first  supposed,  an  Areca  (Betel-nut). 

There  is  much  of  the  red  iron-sand  all  the  way  to  Havana. 
We  arrived  in  time  for  dinner,  but  in  such  a  ferruginous  state 
that  it  required  considerable  patience  to  wash  ourselves  clean. 
Before  sunset  I  took  advantage  of  the  pass  I  have  received  for 

drawing,  and  Mr.  P took  me  up  to  the  Fort  El  Principe,  from 

which  there  is  a  view  over  Havana.  Upon  showing  the  order, 
signed  by  the  Capitaa-Generale,  and  assuring  the  Commandant 
that  I  only  wished  to  sketch  '  la  perspecUva,''  and  not  the  fortifi- 
cations, we  were  permitted  to  enter. 

Sunday,  March  18. — We  went  to  the  service  on  board  the 
Argus  steamer,  commanded  by  Captain  Purvis.  The  English 
and  Austrian  Consuls,  with  Mrs.  Crauford  and  Mrs.  Scharken- 
berg,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Backhouse,  &c,  <S:c.,  were  also  on  board :  and 
the  captain  provided  us  with  a  plentiful  lunch.  The  sailors  sang 
the  Hundredth  Psalm ;  and  they  also  chanted  part  of  the  servica 


258 


ABOLITIONIST   NOTIONS. 


i  i'  'H 


\i  i 


:l'li 


guided  by  an  harmonicoD.    We  visited  the  engine-room  and  ma- 
chinerj,  store-closet,  &c.  &c.,  which  were  beautifully  kept.     The 
Vestal  is  gone  upon  a  cruise.     I  have  been  told  a  dreadful  fact, 
confirmatory  of  the  blood  and  murder  which  are  caused  by  our 
unfortunate  perseverance  in  keeping  an  Anti-Slavery  squadron 
on  the  coast  of  Africa.     One  of  our  captains  having  been  cap- 
sized in  his  gig,  within  the  bar  of  a  river,  his  only  hope  of  safety 
was  to  swim  to  shore,  near  a  barracouta,  where  he  expected  to 
lose  his  life  in  another  manner.     The  people  belonging  to  it, 
however,  succoured  him,  and  received  him  with  kindness;  but, 
before  returning  to  his  ship,  the  slave  merchant  requested  his 
company  to  a  distant  building.     Upon  openiug  the  door  be  was 
struck  with  horror  at  the  sight  of  five  hundred  blacks  with  their 
throats  cut.     '  Do  not  look  reproachfully  at  me,'  exclaimed  the 
man ;  '  this  is  your  doing,  not  mine.     I  would  willingly  have 
avoided  such  a  massacre,  but  you  prevented  me  from  getting  the 
slaves  ofl^.     I  could  neither  feed  nor  provide  for  them ;  and  self- 
preservation  obliged  us  to  dispose  of  them  as  you  see.'     The 
Consul  here,  and  Mr.  Backhouse,  sou  of  Mr.  Backhouse,  formerly 
of  the  Foreign  Office,  are  the  only  people  I  have  met  with  among 
either  diplomatists  or  clergy,  who  support  Abolitionist  notions. 
Mr.  Backhouse  informed  me  that  the  reason  it  is  unnecessary  to 
fasten  doors  and  windows  on  the  plantations  is,  that  the  negroes 
ar-i  all  safely  locked  in  their  respective  dwellings  at  night.     Now, 
I  have  ascertained  that  this  is  not  so,  though  of  course  Mr. 
Backhouse  believed  it;  and  moreover,  it  would  be  absurd;  be- 
cause any  one  who  is  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  negro  houses 
must  be  aware  they  are  so  slight  that  the  inhabitants  can  get  out 
anywhere ;  and  that,  therefore,  it  would  be  useless  to  make  a  show 
of  locking  doors.     In  the  cities  the  laws  do  not  permit  slaves  to 
be  out  after  nine  o'clock  at  night  without  a  permit ;  but  even  this 
regulation  is  not  always  enforced.     In  the  Evening  I  went  to  the 
Cortuua  Valdez,  a  shady  walk  by  the  side  of  the  harbour,  and 
took  a  sketch  fiom  thence. 

Havana,  March  20. — Yesterday  the  heat  was  so  intense  I  did 
not  go  out  till  late.    This  morning  Mr.  P accompanied  mo 


THE   CABANOS. 


259 


in  the  barge  of  t].^  Argos,  to  visit  the  Cabanos,  a  very  strong 
fortress,  behind  the  iloro.  It  was  oncp  taken  by  Lord  Albemarle, 
and  England  had  possb3sion  of  Havana  for  two  years.  At  that 
time  the  English  soldiers  made  use  of  one  of  the  cuurches  for 
Protestant  service,  which  so  desecrated  it  in  the  eyes  of  the  bigoted 
Spaniards,  that  it  has  never  been  applied  to  sacred  purposes  from 
that  time  to  this.  In  mounting  towards  the  fortress,  I  found 
many  interesting  plants — some  of  them  new  to  me.  One  of  the 
pretty  blue  Commelinas  usual  in  our  gardens  is  here  indigenous ; 
Ipomoeas,  and  Iflelias,  and  Bignonias,  intermixed  with  Cactuses, 
are  all  ovar  the  banks,  and  fruits  of  dififerent  kinds  grow  within 
tlie  waiis.  The  Governor  (who  must,  I  suppose,  be  a  Spanish 
General)  was  very  gentlemanly  and  polite ;  much  more  so  than 
the  Commandant  of  El  Principe,  who  consented  to  our  admis- 
sion with  reluctance,  I  imagined,  as  if  some  degree  of  suspicion 
crossed  his  mind  :  and  one  cannot  wonder  that  in  these  filibustering 
times  everything  here  is  carefully  guarded.  This  fortress  (the 
Cabanos)  is  of  immense  extent,  much  larger  than  the  Citadel  of 
Quatre ;  and  at  present  it  is  occupied  by  a  large  body  of  troops. 
It  took  us  so  I  jng  to  go  over  it  that  I  put  off  visiting  the  Moro  till 
to-morrow. 

After  dinner  Mr.  P took  me  a  drive  round  the  suburbs  of 

Havana;  two  other  American  gentlemen,  acquaintances  from 
Baltimore,  accompanied  us  in  another  volante ;  these  carriages 
had  two  horses  each,  one  ridden  by  a  liack  postilion  (with  his  tall 
jack-boo  is,  and  embroidered  swallow-tailed,  short-waisted  jacket), 
cantered  in  the  old  French  fashion  by  the  side,  but  a  few  paces 
before  the  horse  in  the  shafts.  Our  boy  was  a  truo  negro  of  the 
ourang-outang  class,  with  a  projecting  muzzle  and  falling-away 

chin;  he  was  so  surly  and  obsti    ito,  that  at  last  "Mr.  P got 

out  and  borrowed  a  cane  from  the  other  vehicle.  Vio  observe  u 
intelligent  glances  passing  between  the  two  drivers,  and  our?  im- 
mediately improved  in  civility ;  the  hint  was  sufficient,  '  ui  no 
verbal  argument  would  have  had  the  smallest  effect.  We  passed 
by  the  fortress  called  the  Altares,  on  the  hill  below  which  fifty 
Filibusterers,  who  were  taken  prisoners  from  boats  in  an  attempted 


260 


TURPITUDE   or   THB   BLACKS. 


invasioa  of  the  Island  two  or  tluoe  yt?>rs  Si[^o,  vier-'i  shot.  The 
execution  often  out  of  the  number  wovnci  have  beei<  1',h  cruel,  and 
p^-obablj  better  policy;  bu-  ia  imrof-s'ble  rj  dt  'ytli  ■  '^  ghi  '.f  the 
Cuban  governmeuu  to  'Execute  foreigiiers  landing  on  thcnr  territory 
for  hostile  purposes ;  it  this  xiioraent  there  are  political  nrisoners 
under  condemnaticii,  wliose  death  may  be  justifiable,  Estampes, 
&c. 

We  roturiv  d  to  the  city  by  a  ferry  acroF.3  tlio  harbour,  and  in 
the  evening  I  attended  a  recepdon  at  fhe  ps-i  ,oe.  The  Capitan- 
Gcnerale  doc\s  not  appear  to  be  irioro  tL.in  forty-five  ;  his  manner 
\'\'i  a  tirigc;  of  melancholy,  and  his  position,  however  distinguished, 
mn?t  be  in  many  respects  arduous  and  painful.  How  far  he  is 
obliged  to  act  harshly  it  is  difiieult  to  judge.  He  introduced  me 
to  Genera),  or  rather  Admiral  Oastanos,  who  commands  in  the 
port,  and  who  speaks  English  with  a  good  pronunciation,  although 
ho  informed  me  it  was  chiefly  acquired  from  books. 

After  my  return  homo,  the  American  commander  of  the 
Princeton  steamer  came  in.  He  mentioned  having  lately  visited 
Jamaica,  after  an  interval  of  ten  years  since  he  was  there  before, 
and  tiiat  he  was  both  sui-prised  and  shocked  at  the  rapid  deterio- 
ration of  the  island.  He  says  the  blacks  are  fast  sinking  into  a 
state  of  gross  vice  and  immorality  ,*  and  even  when  they  agree  to 
work  upon  the  plantations,  they  steal  half  of  the  crops  to  be 
gathered  in,  and  sell  it  in  the  most  barefaced  way.  Ladies  cannot 
venture  out  without  danger  of  insult ;  and  he  considers  our  West 
Indian  Islands  are  on  the  road  to  ultimate  laiQ.  This  is  the 
opinion  of  every  observer  I  have  met  with  lately  who  has  been 
among  them — people  of  different  professions  and  of  various  shades 
of  politics — but  all  in  agreement  upon  that  one  point,  and  a  sad 
and  dreary  agreement  it  is  ! 

Yesterday,  the  boat  of  the  .'■■.    .  ;/s,  commanded  by  Mr.  Eltor 

took  Mr.  P and  me  to  thr  'S      o.     Upon  landing  beneath  it, 

I  'i>und  the  beach  strewed  '  i  various  specimens  of  corallines, 
ov,.ae  of  them  so  perfect  tl  -^  iuok  as  if  fresh.  Tho  birar tion  of 
this  fortress  is  fine,  though  o  >.  landed  by  that  we  visited  yester- 
day.    I  saw  the  windows  oi  dnr^  M'^^^j  where  it  gave  me  a  panp 


POPULAR   SPORTS. 


261 


ive ;  his  manner 


to  know  political  prisoners  are  confined ;  and  there  is  a  general 
opinion  that  an  execution  will  take  place  to-morrow,  perhaps  that 
of  Pinto.  People  well  informed  believe  there  is  no  credible  evi- 
dence against  Bamon  Pinto ;  but  he  is  a  man  of  talent  as  well  as 
character,  and  the  Castilian  party  are  exasperated  against  him, 
so  that  there  is  reason  to  believe  the  Capitan-Generale  will  not 
refuse  a  confirmation  of  the  sentence  of  death  ;  but  with  three  of 
our  men-of-war  here,  besides  Americans,  and  considering  the  pro- 
tection we  have  a£fordcd  to  the  government,  could  not  our  Consul- 
General  object  to  such  a  tragedy  being  performed  ?  Surely  it  is 
sufficient  to  confiscate  his  estates,  and  sentence  that  noble  though 
unfortunate  man  to  banishment,  instead  of  garotting  him  1 

I  believe  fifty  of  the  subordinate  ofienders  are  to  be  trans- 
ported to  the  Manillas.  It  is  suflBcient  to  live  for  one  fortnight 
under  the  rule  of  a  despotism  to  be  made  sensible  of  the  blessing 
of  constitutional  government.  Here  all  is  doubt  and  suspicion. 
This  unhappy  Pinto  has  a  wife  and  seven  or  eight  children,  and 
he  is  said  to  be  clever,  brave,  and  well-intentioned  :  perhaps  right 
in  principle,  though  mistaken  in  the  choice  of  means  and  the  selec- 
tion of  time  :  but  I  am  assured  that  against  him  there  is  no  accu- 
sation as  to  rebellion,  but  one  of  intended  assassination  of  Con- 
cha, which  is  incredible. 

Upon  entering  the  cutter  again,  we  rowed  a  short  distance 
out,  for  me  to  make  a  short  sketch  of  the  Moro  from  the  sea,  and 
I  returned  to  the  Calton  Hotel  by  ten  o'clock.     After  dinner, 

Mr.  P and  I  took  a  long  drive  round  the  suburbs  of  the  city, 

and  it  was  dark  before  we  returned.  We  passed  through  Guano- 
bacova — a  place  famous  for  cock-fighting.  There,  I  am  told, 
bordiy  .  bouse  is  without  its  fighting  cocks.  Afcer  our  return,  I 
W'en«  to  take  leave  at  the  Palace,  where  my  reception  has  been 
always  oMiging  and  polite. 

Areco  oleacea  '  the  palm  which  has  given  rne  so  much  trou- 
ble here.  At  last  I  have  made  up  my  mind  it  is  no  cocoa.  This 
was  my  first  idea ;  but  the  difference  of  opinion  and  the  total  ig- 
norance about  vegetation  here  led  me  to  doubt  my  own  correct- 
ness.    Only  yesterday.  Monsieur  Sauralle,  a  gentleman  who  has 


262 


SNAKE   MILKER. 


«!J. 


paid  some  attention  to  trees,  assured  me  this  palm,  which  he  de 
signated  Oresodoxa  Begia,  was  not  to  be  found  in  London ;  yet  it 
is  there  as  Areca.  I  have  had  this  morning  my  first  introduction 
to  a  scorpion.  I  saw  something  in  a  little  basket,  standing  close 
to  the  dressing-table,  which  I  mistook  for  a  fossil.  I  touched  i\ 
with  an  exclamation,  when  a  maid  (fortunately  not  black)  saw 
what  it  was,  caught  up  the  basket,  and  carried  it  at  once  to  a  man 
a  few  yards  from  my  door,  who  killed  the  creature  instantly.  A 
negro  woman  would  have  laughed  and  stared,  and  have  allowed  it 
to  sting  me,  before  she  woulr  have  remembered  that  a  scorpion 
is  an  ugly  customer.  This  is  the  first  venomous  thing  I  have  met 
with  in  America,  and  it  is  the  only  one  dangerous  in  Cuba ;  not 
so  bad  either,  I  am  assured,  as  the  same  creature  in  other  locali- 
ties, for  its  bite  seldom  proves  mortal  here.  There  are  some 
snakes  to  be  found  in  the  island,  but  none  venomous.  By-the-bje, 
yesterday  a  lady  from  Louisiana  told  me  that  a  snake  there  (she 
could  not  say  if  it  was  a  rattlesnake)  milks  the  cows,  and  that  it 
has  the  power  of  charming  a  cow  once  milked,  back  to  the  same 
spot,  where  she  will  call  the  reptile  as  if  it  was  her  calf.  A  red 
appearance  in  the  milk  left  behind  shows  what  has  occurred ; 
bat  there  is  no  danger  to  the  life  of  the  cow,  and  by  being 
carefully  shut  up  away  from  her  buake  milker,  the  mischief  is 
repaired. 

Havana,  March  23. — No  Crescent  City  has  come  in  to-day, 
though  the  Isabel,  from  Charleston,  the  Philadelphia,  from  New 
York,  and  the  Diver,  British  steamer,  have  all  arrived  ;  we  shall 
therefore  be  detained  over  to-night.  There  is  a  whisper  that 
another  political  sufferer  will  be  brought  to  the  scafibld  imme- 
diately. I  have  not  heard  particulars  of  that  case ;  but  every  fact 
which  can  be  discovered  confirms  me  in  the  suspicion  that  the 
death  of  Pinto  was  a  murder — not  an  act  of  political  justice. 
His  last  communication  to  a  friend  was  his  assurance,  as  a  man 
of  honour,  that  he  died  guiltless  of  those  things  for  which  his 
judges  had  condemned  him.  Five  thousand  peopb  attended 
Pinto's  execution;  solemnly  and  apparently  mournfully,  they 
witnessed  his  firm  and  calm  submission  to  the  garotte,  after 


i 
I 


POSITION   OP   ENGLAND. 


263 


having  been  refused  the  death  of  a  soldier.  This  act  must  bring 
misery  upon  the  heads  of  those  who  have  caused  it. 

I  am  told  the  British  Consul  had  not  sufficient  diplomatic 
rank  to  warrant  a  protest  from  him.  So  while  England  is  carry- 
ing on  a  crusade  against  the  interests  of  the  sugar  planters,  and 
which  really  injures  and  deteriorates  the  black  race,  it  is  abetting 
murder  and  tyranny  over  the  whites;  and  because  this  island 
bears  the  name  of  a  colony  (although  of  much  more  importano 
than  Mexico),  Englishmen  have  been  imprisoned  and  ruined  with- 
out redress ;  and  if  a  British  subject  dies  here,  there  is  no  minister 
capable  of  protecting  his  property,  or  of  saving  his  widow  and 
family  from  an  arbitrary  interference  with  their  rights.  Wo  have 
only  power  to  do  mischief,  without  making  our  influence  felt  for 
the  advantage  of  our  own  people.  This  Government  is,  in  fact, 
a  Viceroyship.  Havana  (particularly  at  this  moment)  is  a  situa- 
tion of  great  importance,  and  yet  the  British  Government  have 
no  strong  and  powerful  representative.  Hero  I  ^'eel  so  mortified 
at  the  poor  figure  England  makes,  that  I  quite  long  it  get  away 
from  the  place.  I  am  packing  up  a  box  of  fos&ih  a  recent 
corallines  collected  on  these  shores  for  the  London  Museum  of 
Practical  Geology ;  except  by  the  weight  of  the  former,  they  are 
in  such  a  perfect  condition,  that  they  would  hardly  be  distinguished 
from  fresh  specimens.  I  cannot  gain  information  where  the  older 
formations  commence,  but  there  is  good  coal  on  the  island.  I 
have  picked  up  serpentine  upon  its  shores,  and  I  am  told  that 
there  is  gi'anite  somewhere  towards  the  south,  I  have  not  seen 
more  than  sixty  miles  out  of  the  seven  hundic  i .  -yhich  length 
Cuba  extends. 

Military  uniforms  are  visible  in  every  direction,  and  fortresses 
bristle  all  round  this  city,  yet  there  is  no  such  thing  as  public 
confidence,  or  a  sense  of  general  security.  Poor  Cuba  I  from  the 
little  I  Lave  seen,  I  can  hardly  hope  that  the  future  will  be  free 
from  bloodshed.  No  simple  arrangement  of  sale  and  payment 
will  settle  her  destinies,  or  give  her  prosperity.  If  individuals 
in  this  state  of  existence  have  to  pass  tlirough  a  uiscipliue  of  trial, 
so  it  appears  th.:t  nations  must  gain  freedom  through  sufiering. 


aoi 


li>ANiNTt  Minnm.R. 


TIm  ''  V  boftti'w  yorttonlii.v  wuH  Hlonuy,  with  lliundoi'  ami  liglif,. 
nintr  ui,  ii(M")ni|iiuiiiii<<ntM  Cor  that  itiuriiiti^'n  work;  ko  I  wiin 
fortiuiato  ii\  not.  cnibarKiii;!;  ii|)(iii  a  lioulihul  kom,  wliidli  iiiny  Im 
I0.H8  \'o\\^\\  lor  WW  \)ttnHnf!{{\  \(  wo  an»  !••  j^o  on  Itoard  tU'in  aricriioon. 

(JreHccnt  ^V/y,  tUmrh  )lt).  ~\\y  liuU-puNl.  ton  o'clock  yonlcrtlajf 
morning  wo  ^nl  '«n  I<'mii(1,  lioin;^  olilignd  in  onnio  two  niiloM  aiMOM 
iliu  liiirl»>.ir  4it  iMi  o|)on  lioui,  bcoutiMo  Micro  In  a  rogulat  ion  iilili^ring 
iho  AnivM'ioan  HtcanxM'H  to  oonl  a(>  an  inoiinvnnioni  iiliicn;  mid 
though  thiM  voMHdl  wouUl  havo  |)i>(mi  ai)h«  Id  vm\w  in  hint  iiiglit, 
buoauKO  aho  arrived  art(>r  raninrt  tho  author!ti<  n  obligi'd  hi<r  to 
wait  at  tho  ontranoo  till  al'Uu'  tho  nun  roNo  agiiin,  on  pain  of  jioin/^ 
lirod  at.  (>i)0(%  a  oaptain,  Ltoing  ord(<rod  to  moor  himmOr  along 
tiido  of  a  ounvidt  Hhip,  rcd'oNiMl  to  tako  tliat  Hitiuitiun,  and  put  out 
again  to  Hoa  till  (hn  morning. 

Tho  jtroHont  (iovcrninont  of  (luha  im  prrjnitting  aolM  wliioli 
tnnd  to  oxcitu  indigijution  and  piigic  nity  in  tho  I'dIIimI  HtaloK, 
It  is  roportod  that  moiiio  authoriticH  havo  limiiltod  and  i  !/.<'(!  cjioii 
a  OonHul,  and  that  u  Bpaninh  niati-oi'-war  haw  llrod  iiit(»  AniiTJ 
oan  ship,  and  that  tho  Oapitan-Ooncralu  Iuih  noithcr  fll'iTcd 
rodroHH  nor  apology.  Havana  Ih  a  tcunpting  prixc,  an<l  th<>  r  ,  iniHli 
QuvornniiMit  atVording  a  fair  prctoxt,  who  oan  wond(<r  that  tli(<i« 
arc  fiiinurMoring  oxpcditioiiHV  I'liHMing  out  of  tho  harhonr,  u 
gcutUMuan  jioiiiiitd  out  tho  Hpot  whoro  Ilatnon  Pinto  waa  cx'suutcd. 
Ho  ucHcrihod  lio  booiu)  iim  I'oIIowh  ;— No  vory  appar<!nt  hIiow  ol 
military  forci",  but  tho  noaH'old  was  crootisd  in  an  upon  place, 
]-tu  .vocn  a  largo  barrack  r  id  tho  nniull  fort  (jppoKito  tho  OahaiioH, 
from  wh'inco  troops  oould  havo  boon  drawn  if  ncccHHary.  Wo 
oonoludod  tho  iirlsonor  must  havo  bcon  movcid  from  Imh  diuif^roii 
in  tho  uiir  t  or  early  in  tho  morning.  When  all  wan  jonjuind, 
ho  was  I  '■  'ht  lut  from  tho  barraokn,  droH8od  in  white,  with  :i 
black  croH*  upoi  IiIh  cap ;  hi.-i  companioriH,  only  tho  cxociitiotKU' 
and  one  prioHt;  a  band  playing  tho  J)oad  Mar<di.  llu  had  only 
to  walk  about  two  huiidrod  yarda;  ho  Himply  dctdarcd  IiIh  iniio- 
ceuco  of  tho  crimes  attributi;d  to  him,  and  then,  after  Hcatini^' 
himself  in  the  chair  of  death,  ho  gav<!  the  ^igjiul ;  tho  garotte  wu:! 
applied,  aud,  without  any  apparent  Htrugglo,  life  F.oon  becamo  ex- 


MnN.  Niiiwtn. 


^nti 


iindot'  anil  light* 
oi'l< ;  Ko  I  mn 
I,  wliinli  iiiiiy  Im 

(llJN  lirilM'IKMItl. 

'clock  yivdci'tluy 
wo  iitilot<  iii'KiM 

lllntiotl  i))i|i|,ri||g 
iotil,  |i|i)i'«t;  1111(1 
no  III  Irirtt  iii^lil,, 
<  oMI^imI  tii<t-  to 
(HI  piilii  of  |i(<in|^ 
r  liiiiiMi'ir  along 
iuii,  iiiul  put  out 

tin^  iirlM  wliioli 

I'liiltMl     MllllOM. 

Hlill  t;    i/.*mI  ii|iiili 

t  into       Aini'ti 

noitlir'p   i'lrcrcd 

iind  iUi'  i"-^  iituHJi 

»ii(l('r  lliiit  ilici" 

tJio    luirlMiiir,  u 

to  WJIH  <'X'(!llt(;(|, 

lipiirctnt  HJiovv  ol 

un   oi)(!ii  jilfu'd, 

iit(!  tlio  (JllliatlOM, 

ncccHHury.  Wo 
roni  liiH  (lutigroti 
.11  waH  ]»rf?j(inT(l, 
lu  wiiitc,  witli  a 

tlio    OXWAdloWM 

I.  llu  IiikI  only 
)(;liir(;<l  ii'iH  iniio- 
!ii,  al'tftr  Heating; 

i  it  /t     ««(!  Hftl  I  <t     \Vl\'-t 

uaiw      ti****   ^f\/^^\^       »•  •••• 

Koon  Ixicumo  ex- 


Mnot. ;  fill'  n.  wlillo,  I  know  not  liow  loiif^,  ilii«  lioily  «vmh  InH  to  Im 
giini**l  ill  ;  tluit  p^lglit  |m<iImi|im  iniiilt*  llvo  liiindrtoj  I'lntiin  wli»rw 
tliofo  WM  otin  iKtloi-o,  iiikI  rainixl  h  (iMlontiitJoM  of  (i«tni>riil  (tonitlm 
niid  IiIh  inyriiililoiiM  wlilcli  will  iit'oliiihly  imhino  tlin  i<Ktln«tlon  of 
tlio  M|>rJiiF«li  nilo  III  Anioi'loii,  iinil  lirlii^  down  rMtillMitlon  n|ioM 
tlio  oliUd'  who  now  oRtirolNxN  it.  I'orliitpn  I  linvo  dw*ilt  too  lon^ 
U|ion  tliin  tonlliln  onitiirronno ;  nnd  wi'ltiiif^  tin  i  linvn  dono  nt  odd 
tiloiiiotitM  it  In  poNr<lldo  I  nuiy  liiivo  lopcatod  JHotM,  JHit  tlofo  join 
linon  no  tinio  to  rond  hiiolt  ;  you  ioivo  tlio  loolln^H  rind  tlo*  lin- 
proMMioiiN  n.H  llioy  mi'omo,  and  lit  niicli  it  nioniotit  it  Iihm  lirwin  iiiifioM 
hIIiIo  Io  writ*  iiolly  or  IVoo  IVoin  piiiid'iil  oxoitomont.  TliMok  dlod, 
1  liiivo  now  Inl't  tlint  bloody  mIioio, 

Wo  Imvo  n  Inr^o  vomnoI  mid  linn  oiilrii  woiitlior;  our  iwiptnln 
MayN  it  will  t»ko  tliioo  i\\\.y»  In  ronrli  tlio  liar  ol'  tlio  MiKHiMNippi 
ilivor ;  I  loar  wohIihII  ontir  it  in  tlio  dark,  Tlio  only  pocnjiarity 
1  liavo  (diNorvod  In  tliJM  pint  ol'  tlio  iintf  of  Moxioo  during  our 
proNoni  vnyuyn  in  tlio  ootoiir  of  tlio  noil,  wlti'li  tn  iinliko  M,nytliin(( 
I  liavo  roniitrkod  olnowlioro  :  it  in  noitlior  ^roon  nor  nky  Idiio,  loit 
prooinoly  tlio  tint  of  n  NNppliir<v»  wiiioli  tlio  oiiptnio  tolln  nio  'in  itx 
iiNiial  appi'iirarion ;  tliin  ooloiir  dooM  not  H'oni  to  lio  allooMid  l;y 
•litlior  oIoiuIh  or  nUy,  for  tlioiij^li  wo  liavo  liad  a  «'aloi  voya/ro  wt 
far,  it  ioiN  hy  w  nioann  lioon  olondlcMn,  and  I  writo  on  tlio  tliird 
'liiy  of  our  pawHa^o  to  Now  (}r\vuu»  af<  a  di«t)if)/io  of  n'tn  liondr<;d 
rriiloM  from  (Julia.  On  l»'>ttrd,  I  liavo  I>omi  roiKlIni^  Mr«,  Hlowo'* 
tiinmy  Mmiimrn :  it  oontaiiiM  womo  f.rotty  and  truo  dott^iriptioiiM 
ofK'ionoM  and  faotw  in  Hootland  and  I'W'/'!  i.nd,  and  y«:t  I  riannot 
but  r(',\irvX  that  hIio  did  not  moditato  mor«)  d<;oply  upon  lior  owM 
axiom,  that — '  'J'ho  pf>wor  of  liotitioua  writinpr,  for  //ood  as  w<ll  a« 
ovil,  Ih  a  thing  whiidi  ou|/lit  to  ho  mo»f,  K^iriouMJy  r';lloct^;d  oo,'-- 
and  n«r  ip;noiaiitly  UKod,  Had  Mr«,  Htowo  liv<d  for  M»mo //lonthx 
among  tho  inHtitutiooM  and  tho  p«',oplo  which,  in  (Inih  l''/in^  mIki 
thoughtloHHiy,  porhapM  not  int^mtionally  vilifM,  »h*;  would  hav« 
»w*;d,  not  miHUH»;d  lior  undouhUid  f,al«nt^  ;  and  ««  it  ix,  nhn  onght 
U>  havo  hlu8hod  at  tho  Su\wmu'.  flatt/jry  whi';li  r;alh;d  h<rr  novfd 
The,  yenvine  apjMr/ilion  of  ili^>  nar/i-tid    Wfrrd  of  (iod  Uf  ifi4 


VI 


260 


NEW    ORLEANS. 


I       '1 


several  branches  of  Tier  stihject.^ — Dr.  M'Neile's  Address,  April 
11th,  1853. 

I  did  not  say  much  about  the  aspect  of  Slavery  in  Cuba,  be- 
cause  my  opportunities  for  observing  it  were  few.  In  a  certain 
sense  the  white  population  there  are  slaves,  and  of  course  the 
state  of  the  blacks  is  modified  by  that  circumstance ;  from  what 
I  heard,  too,  the  social  morality  of  the  Cubans  is  at  a  very  low 
ebb,  their  religious  principles  wretched,  and  the  prevalence  of 
immorality  and  irreligion  will  act  and  react  upon  the  blacks  as  well 
as  the  whites ;  so  I  do  not  believe  Cuba  to  be  a  country  where 
Slavery,  as  a  system,  can  be  fairly  studied.  We  expect  to  reach 
the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  to-night:  if  there  is  no  fog  our 
captain  will  cross  the  bar ;  but  one  hundred  miles  of  the  river 
must  be  traversed  before  our  vessel  reaches  New  Orleans,  and  I 
shall  write  no  more  till  we  get  there. 

St.  Charles  Hotel,  New  Orleans,  March  29. — "We  reached 
this  place  before  three  o'clock  yesterday ;  but  owing  to  the  tide 
swinging  the  Crescent  City  round  just  as  she  came  up  to  her  moor- 
ings, there  was  no  landing  till  after  four  o'clock.  I  did  not  un- 
dress  the  night  before,  for  our  Seminole  accident  has  made  my 
nerves  rather  touchy  at  night ;  and  though  we  were  off  the  Mis- 
sissippi before  eleven,  the  captain  was  obliged  to  fire  a  gun  three 
times,  and  at  last  dispatched  a  boat  before  he  could  get  a  pilot  on 
board.  The  mouth  of  this  river,  and  its  channel  for  the  first 
hundred  miles,  is  narrow  and  poor  compared  with  the  Walaki,  the 
St.  Lawrence,  or  the  beautiful  Ottawa ;  I  am  told  it  is  wider 
higher  up :  as  yet  I  have  seen  nothing  on  its  low  muddy  banks 
but  some  thriving  plantations  fringed  with  neat  negro  dwellings. 
Till  we  arrived  I  did  not  know  our  steamer  was  named  from  the 
shape  of  the  city,  which  is  built  upon  the  crescent  form  of  the 
shore.  I  never  saw  such  a  fleet  of  steamers  as  line  its  wharves, 
no,  not  even  at  London  or  Liverpool :  perhaps  this  is  owing  to 
their  being  all  moored  together ;  but  there  is  more  shipping  here 
than  I  have  observed  in  any  f  the  other  ports  except  New  York 
and  Boston.  The  place,  though  flat,  is  handsome  and  apparently 
well-built;  but  although  it  has  been  for  so  many  years  attached . 


NEW   ORLEANS. 


267 


!e :  from  what 


to  the  United  States,  and  the  Creole  population  has  not  now  a 
majority,  yet  they  are  an  influential  ingredient,  and  give  the  tone 
to  manners  and  customs ;  so  that  New  Orleans  has  more  of  a 
Southern  air  than  even  Charleston  or  Savannah. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M 


^^ 


^ 


"^ 


'=r' 


:grt^.Srt^^ 


^s 


■*^ 


^  ^Je^'^  ^^^'^  ^'^^'^  ^-k^  ^k^  ^i 


LETTER  XXa. 


Wk 


Nzw  Oblxanb,  JTarcA  81, 1655. 

My  dear  Friends, — 

I  left  the  St.  Charles  Hotel  yesterday.    Mr.  Kobert  G , 

brother  to  my  Virginian  friend,  called  to  bring  me  to  his  pleasant 
and  comfortable  house,  and  in  what  may  be  called  the  '  West 
end '  of  New  Orleans.  I  find  myself  established,  and  quite  at 
home,  with  every  luxury  and  attention  that  a  traveller  can  re- 
quire. The  weather  is  still  as  fresh  and  cold  as  an  ordinary 
dreary  March  with  us,  though  more  roses  are  in  bloom  than  we 
could  find  so  earlj'^  in  the  year  in  England.  Several  loquat  trees 
{Eisohotria  Japonica)  placed  round  the  garden  are  only  just  be- 
ginning to  ripen  their  delicious  fruit,  with  its  golden,  or  rather 
apricot-coloured  hue ;  in  most  seasons  before  April,  peas  and  straw- 
berries are  plentiful,  but  they  are  not  yet  to  be  had.  My  ideas 
are  rather  puzzled  about  seasons  :  after  the  dog  days  in  Cuba,  I 
feel  as  if  this  ought  to  be  autumn,  not  spring ;  but  I  have  no 
doubt  that  an  interval  of  colder  weather  wU  be  salutary  to  our 
constitutions  before  we  pass  the  approaching  summer  in  the  North- 
ern States.  Instead  of  growing  thin  during  my  travels,  I  was 
beginning  to  fear  that,  on  my  return  to  England,  I  should  make 
my  appearance  in  too  portly  a  style ;  but  three  weeks  at  Havana 
have  obviated  that  fear.  In  m}  lom  here  it  is  pleasant  to  have 
a  fouf-post  bed,  which  briT.;  "i'-ng'^sh  customs  to  mind.  I  never 
Baw  anything  but  French  lo^     adsin  tha  North.     No  eurtains 


SLAVERY   V8.   FREEDOM. 


269 


,  March  81, 1886. 


are  reviuired ;  a  full  and  wide  mosquito-net,  without  opening,  and 
vhicb  is  put  back  during  the  day,  and  looks  like  a  transparent 
bonnet-box  over  the  pillows,  is  drawn  forward  at  night,  and  pro- 
tects me  completely  from  the  invasion  of  insects.  This  is  a  bet- 
ter contrivance  than  those  at  Cuba,  where  I  found  a  persevering 
mosquito  would  often  succeed  in  establishing  itself  within  the  cur- 
tains. The  wood  of  which  the  bedstead  is  made  looks  like  a  kind 
of  walnut ;  the  top  has  a  heavy  projecting  eave — this,  I  am  told, 
is  advantageous,  as  it  gives  room  for  the  iron  rod  underneath  upon 
which  the  mosquito-net  is  hung.  While  I  am  writing  a  black 
woman  enters :  they  walk  in  and  out  of  your  room,  just  as  the 
fancy  takes  them,  without  knocking ;  and  the  door  must  be  locked 
if  one  does  not  wish  to  be  intruded  on.  The  negroes  are  curious, 
and  like  to  come  and  ask  questions,  and  see  what  you  are  at ;  so 
'  Emily '  inquires  if  I  will  let  her  make  the  bed  while  I  am  in  the 
room ;  being  as  well  inclined  for  a  little  talk  as  herself,  I  agree. 
She  tells  me  the  coloured  people  are  well  content  and  happv ; 
that  she  was  *  raised  in  Virginny,'  and  came  here  from  Kichmond ; 
that  masters  and  mistresses  about  are  very  tender  of  their  people ; 
that  she  has  got  her  husband  and  three  children,  babies  almost, 
the  youngest  an  infant,  then  in  the  house ;  she  does  odd  jobs  after 
dinner,  but  she  says  that  on  the  plantations  it  is  not  often  the 
people  work  after  dinner  (she  is  munching  something  all  this 
while) ;  they  have  usually  task-work,  which  can  be  quickly  done 
if  they  choose;  that  the  black  population  don't  like  bacon — 
'  they  likes  to  have  fresh  moat  three  times  a  day,  and  what  they 
likes  beside.'  She  seemed  utterly  astonished  when  I  told  her 
that  the  English  working-people  could  seldom  get  meat  at  all, 
and  that  they  had  not  as  much  firing  as  they  chose,  &c.  &c. 
*  Lord  bless  you,  missus,  that  would  never  do  at  all  here :  why, 
some  of  the  coloured  ones  have  got  a'most  as  much  jewellery  as 
their  missuses ;  they  gets  their  own  way  tolerable  somehow ;  and 
they  very  often  desires  to  be  sold  when  they  be  affronted.' 
'  Emily '  thought  that  in  England  slaves  would  have  it  all  their 
own  way  entirely ;  and  this  is  the  idea  that  darkies  have  of  free- 
lorn  :  plenty  to  eat  and  drink,  finery  to  their  heart's  coutcni 


270 


SLAVERY   VS.   FBEEDOU. 


'm 

!i^H 

iXi  'l^^Ki 

II 

1 

1 

— no  work.  Her*»  they  despise  the  free  negroes.  One  woman 
was  oflFered  Ler  freedom  in  my  hearing:  she  took  the  offer  as  an 
insult,  and  said,  '  I  know  what  the  free  niggers  are,  missus :  they 
are  tho  meanest  niggers  as  ever  was ;  I  hopes  never  to  be  a  free 
nigger,  missus.'  A  slave  quarrelling  with  another  l)lack,  after 
calliog  him  names,  at  last  sums  up  as  the  acme  of  contempt, 
'  You  be  a  d d  nigger  without  a  master  1 '  This  is  the  conse- 
quence of  the  fact,  that  free  negroes  being  idle  and  profligate  are 
generally  poor  and  miserable.  A  common  reproach  amoag  them 
is  to  say,  '  You  he's  as  bad  as  a  free  nigger.'  I  think  if  any  un- 
prejudiced person  sees  the  state  of  the  free  black  population  in 
Canada,  and  then  makes  a  tour  of  a  few  months  in  the  Southern 
States,  with  an  open  eye  and  unprejudiced  miLd,  he  will  come  to 
the  conclusion  that  things  are  better  than  names;  and  that  if  by 
a  ukase  he  could  carry  back  all  the  darkies  (from  ignorance  and 
misrepresentation  induced  to  run  away  from  their  masters)  he 
would  benefit  the  blacks,  whatever  he  might  do  for  the  whites, 
who,  I  believe,  would  be  very  much  averse  to  receive  these  con- 
taminated negroes  again,  except  from  motives  of  duty  and  com- 
passion. 

Mrs.  Stowe  gives  great  credit  to  a  young  lady  who,  becoming 
the  heiress  of  a  few  slaves,  gave  them  all  their  fre  lorn.  I  have 
heard  of  a  young  lady  who  succeeded  to  the  possession  of  ne- 
groes, and  nothing  else ;  by  emancipating  them  she  might  have 
gained  a  fine  character  from  the  Abolitionists,  and  have  cast  oif 
not  only  a  responsibility,  but  a  heavy  expense ;  instead  of  which 
she  sought  occupation  for  herself,  laboured  hard,  and  earned  the 
means  of  existence  for  her  pooi*  black  dependents,  as  well  as  her 
own  living.  Which  of  these  two  ladies  acted  the  more  Christian 
part  ?  Last  night,  conversing  with  a  very  intelligent  gentleman 
who  has  travelled  in  Canada,  I  remarked  that  free  negroes  there 
were  in  a  much  more  degraded,  suffering,  and  irreligious  state 
than  any  slaves  I  have  seen ;  and  that  they  often  reproach  the 
whites  with  having,  by  false  pretences,  inveigled  them  to  their 
destruction.  He  said,  '  I  will  tell  you  a  circumstance  which  oc- 
3urred  relative  to  that  matter,     A  confidential  black|  who  was 


SEPARATION   OP   NEGRO   FAMILIES. 


2/1 


treated  with  the  greatest  kindness  by  his  master,  took  it  in  his 
head  one  day  to  ran  away,  with  the  idea  of  establishing  himself 
in  Canada.  When  in  that  country  I  accidentally  fell  in  with  him, 
acting  as  waiter  in  an  hotel :  we  immediately  recognized  each  other; 
and,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  he  said,  *  Oh,  sir  I  tell  of  the  family ; 
how  is  this  one,  how  is  that  ? '  I  answered  his  inquiric!^,  and 
then  asked  how  he  got  on.  '  I  get  on  in  the  season  pretty  well ; 
I  make  some  money,  but  very  bad  in  the  winter.  Oh,  sir  I  beg 
my  dear  master  for  me ;  beg  him  to  forgive,  and  take  me  back 
again.'  And  I  feel  sure  that  these  negroes  who  are  not  so  far  gone 
in  drunkenness  and  profligacy,  as  to  have  lost  all  self-respect, 
nould  generally  make  the  same  request;  exceptions  only  prove 
the  rule.  My  woman  on  the  Detroit  River  was  taken  care  of  by 
a  husband,  who,  haviug  occupation  as  a  black  pilot  (an  employ- 
ment for  which  their  strong  local  perception  peculiarly  fits  them), 
was  the  only  really  contented  black  I  met  with ;  but  she  lost  her 
children,  and  may,  perhaps,  end  in  being  motherless;  while  in 
slavery,  thej''  would  have  been  healthy.  As  to  the  separation  of 
families,  I  see  that  great  pains  are  taken  to  avoid  that  evil. 
I  believe  that  it  hardly  occurs  more  frequently  than  in  England 
from  other  causes :  and  I  imagine  a  law  might  be  enacted  to 
make  it  less  easy  here.  So  in  this  case,  as  in  every  other  social 
abuse,  the  governing  power  should  regulate,  but  not  wholly  for- 
bid, or  the  result  will  be  the  encouragement  of  twenty  evils  where 
there  was  one  beiore.  I  have  seen  a  great  many  visifcort  to  day ; 
among  them  some  very  agreeable  people. 

April  1. — A  dinner-party  here  included  the  Bishop  and  Mrs. 

P ,  Professors  Biddell  and  Linton  (the  latter  from  St.  Louis), 

Colonel  Seymour,  Dr.  Smith,  &c.,  &c.  I  am  invited  to  accom- 
pany a  party  into  the  State  of  Mississippi  to-morrow  or  Tuesday, 
as  an  expedition,  and  gladly  accept.  At  nine  o'clock  Mr.  Milten- 
berger  called  to  take  me  to  the  Opera,  to  sec  the  last  two  or  three 
acts.  I  have  been  little  gratified  by  the  operas  elsewhere  in  tho 
States.  At  New  York,  Grisi  and  Mario  were  wretchedly  sup- 
ported :  and  the  dresses  and  choruses  were  so  miserable  that  I 
was  hardly  inuliuud  to  do  more  than  just  look  in  at  th@  house 


272 


CUBAN  WATCH  CRIES. 


'ti.m) 


m 


here ;  but  I  was  most  agreeably  surprised.  The  Italian  Opera  iq 
London  was  never  better  mis  en  scdne,  though  Donizetti  was  givcu 
in  French.  I  think  the  opera  was  La  Beine  de  Ghypre.  Al- 
though the  prima  donna  waa  neither  Grisi  nor  Sontag,  her  voice, 
expression,  and  acting,  were  all  good ;  her  toilette  perfect ;  indeed, 
as  a  whole,  I  never  saw  a  piece  better  costum6  ;  being  close  to 
the  stage,  the  details  were  made  evident  to  me ;  and  three  fine 
male  voices  of  diflferent  kinds,  gave  effect  to  the  principal  charac- 
ters. I  must  go  again,  and  know  more  about  this  opera  than  it 
was  in  my  power  to  find  out  last  night. 

The  house,  though  not  large,  is  well  arranged,  but  after  a 
different  plan  from  any  one  I  ever  saw  before.  I  was  told  that 
being  the  last  day  of  Lent,  the  Creole  ladies  were  not  there.  This 
morning  the  weather  is  warm,  some  rain  the  night  before  last  has 
softened  the  air,  and  I  suppose  now  the  summer  will  come  here. 

By-the-bye,  I  got  a  lady  to  write  down  for  me  the  extraordi- 
nary and  terrific  screams  of  the  watchmen  at  Havana  and  Ma- 
tanzas.  I  must  let  you  have  the  benefit  of  them,  premising,  of 
course,  that  the  hours  vary  : — 

'  Las  diez  y  media  y  sercno.' 

'  Lus  once  y  nublado.' 

*  Las  doce,  y  la  ciudad  esth  siempi'e  jBdelisima.* 

As  to  the  last  assurance,  I  think  I  should  not  be  sorry  it 
should  be  a  doubtful  one. 

There  is  a  report  that  the  President  of  the  United  States  has 
ordered  some  American  men-of-war  to  go  and  sink  the  Spanish 
frigate  which  fired  into  the  steamer.  I  don't  much  wonder  if  he 
has  done  so ;  and  really  I  think  Europe  might  be  inclined  to  join 
with  America  in  bringing  the  Spaniards  to  their  senses,  for  as 
despots,  they  are  quite  as  bad  as  the  Russians  when  they  dare  to 
show  their  will,  and  in  cruelty  worse.  I  must  tell  a  story,  which 
will  exemplify  the  mode  of  government  and  internal  state  of  Cuba 
more  graphically  than  anything  else  I  can  write. 

Not  long  ago  there  was  a  servile  (meute  among  the  negroes  of 
a.  T^lftntaiinn  •  flifl  ftiithnrities  immfidiatelv  seized  the  rinEleadorS", 


CUBAN  LAW. 


273 


tortured  them  with  cat-o'-nine-tails,  with  nails  in  them,  cutting  flesh 
off  their  backs,  inquiring  all  the  time,  '  Did  so  and  so  instigate  you 
— or,  so  and  so  ? '  The  poor  blacks  at  first  answered  truly,  '  No 
one  told  us — ^we  did  it  ourselves.'  At  last  the  name  of  a  planter 
forty  miles  off  was  mentioned,  and  not  knowing  him,  to  escape 
from  torture  one  said,  *  Yes,  aassa— he,  masoa.'  This  gerstleman 
was  busy  on  his  grounds  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
when  forty  soldiers  entered,  and  asked  his  name;  he  gave  it, 
and  civilly  invited  them  to  take  some  refreshment ;  but  they  im- 
mediately put  a  rope  round  his  neck,  and  proceeded  to  attach  it 
to  one  of  their  horses.  He  entreated  that  if  they  meant  to 
take  him  prisoner,  they  would  at  least  allow  him  to  mount  one  of 
his  own  saddle-horses.  But  no ;  they  actually  trotted  this  man  of 
property  and  education  forty  miles,  dragging  him  after  them. 
When  they  arrived  at  the  place  where  he  was  to  be  confined  and 
examined,  eleven  otbyr  people  were  selected  to  stand  with  him. 
The  negroes  were   then  brought  in,   and  desired  to  point  out 

Mr. .     Fortunately  tor  him,  being  quite  unknown  to  them, 

they  selected  the  wrong  man ;  but  if  by  any  accident  they  had 
pitched  upon  him,  his  life  would  have  b^en  the  forfeit.  As  soon 
as  his  non-complicity  was  thus  ascertained,  the  negroes  were  taken 

out  and  shot  without  further  ceremony,,  and  Mr. was  allowed 

to  find  his  way  back  to  his  own  home.  This  is  Cuban  law  and 
justice.  It  may  be  guessed  what  kind  of  a  chance  was  afforded 
to  Pinto. 

Yesterday,  April  1st,  was  Sunday ;  Bishop  P called  and 

took  me  to  hia  church,  whero  the  service  was  like  ours,  with  the 
exception  only  of  a  few  omissions.  The  interior  of  the  edifice 
was  ornamented  with  sufficient  painted  glass  to  throw  a  cool  light 
into  it  without  making  it  obscure,  and  all  the  decorations  were  in 
good  taste.  The  1st  of  April  might  htive  been  May  with  us — 
the  temperature  just  high  enough  for  enjoyment. 

April  2. — Mrs.  G took  me  to  visit  a  lady  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, in  whose  garden  I  found  many  things  xiew  to  me, 
principally  shrubs.     A  capsicum  as  small  as 
like  comething  different  from  what  we  call  bird 
12* 


pea;  which  looks 
nenner :  and  a 

AAA  t 


fa 


274 


DINNER   AT   THE   BEITISH   CONSUL'S. 


privet,  which,  though  the  leaves  resemble  a  Chinese  privet,  I 
think  is  hardly  the  same,  as  it  is  quite  a  timber  tree,  and  very 
handsome.     I  gathered  many  seeds. 

I  dined  with  the  British  Consul,  Mr.  Muir,  and  met  his 
mother-in-law,  an  agreeable  old  lady,  though  she  is  of  the  Wil- 
berforce  and  Hannah  More  school,  almost  the  only  person  I  have 
met  with  South  who  still  advocates  abolitionist  ideas ;  her  son-iu- 
law,  a  clergyman,  and  a  granddaughter  did  not  agree  with  her  in 

opinion.   I  afterwards  drani;  tea  with  the  Bishop  and  Mrs.  P . 

One  remark  of  his  struck  me :  he  said,  that  for  the  sake  of  the 
Christian  and  moral  welfare  of  the  Irish  emigrants  and  the  African 
negroes,  he  would  desire  to  pass  a  majority  of  the  former  through 
the  kitchens,  and  all  the  latter  through  the  plantations,  of  the 
United  States.  The  Irish  paupers  are  so  ultra  in  their  politic?, 
and  so  saucy  in  their  manners,  that  they  have  given  rise  to  the 
'  Know-nothing '  movement,  which,  however  reprehensible  in  its 
mode  of  proceeding,  is  only  a  practic?xl  illustration  of  the  im- 
possibility of  fairly  carrying  out  the  idea  of  equality.  These 
emigrants  are,  without  doubt,  as  a  class,  the  most  disagreeable 
and  overbearing  people  in  the  Union.  They  are  specimens  of  the 
true  democrat  when  united  with  ignorance — levelling  all  above 
themselves,   and  insolent  to  those   they  fancy  beneath    them. 

Bishop  P walked  home  with  me ;  no  bonnet,  and  hardly  a 

shawl  was  required ;  the  evening  balmy  and  pleasant — just  per- 
fect in  temperature. 

Osyka,  April  6. — I  date  from  one  of  those  marvellous  places 
in  the  Bush,  which  in  this  part  of  the  world  are  born,  educated, 
and  grown  up  in  the  course  of  a  few  months.  When  I  landed  at 
Boston,  there  was  not  a  tree  felled  where  this  town  is  now  in 
existence ;  yet  I  am  in  a  comfortable  hotel  entertaining  thirty  or 
forty  guests  daily  at  its  tahle-d'hdte.  This  house,  the  woman 
said,  *  had  been  built  full  five  months.'  The  town  as  yet  does  nci 
consist  of  more  than  fifty  houses ;  but  there  are  two  hotels,  three 
or  four  stores,  a  good  railway  station,  and  everything  else  looking 
as  if  established  thirty  years,  excepting  that  as  yet  there  is  no 
church,  and  the  stumps  of  ^rees  are  still  left  in  all  directions. 


SAILROAD    ACCIDENTS. 


275 


But  I  must  begin  from  the  beginning,  and  tell  the  adventures 
which  have  obliged  me  to  sleep  at  Osyka,  with  an  uncertainty 
as  to  when  I  am  to  get  back  to  New  Orleans.  As  I  had  made 
two  pleasant  acquaintances  there — Dr.  Smith  and  Dr.  Riddell 
(the  latter  has  bought  a  house  and  property  eighty-six  miles  off, 
in  the  Mississippi  territory,  where  he  means  to  move  his  wife  and 
family  when  the  heat  sets  in) — they  invited  me  to  accompany 
them  in  an  expedition  to  sea  a  pretty  country  beyond  the  pine 
barrens,  which  stretch  away  as  far  as  the  State  of  Mississippi ;  a 
railroad  has  been  opened  in  that  direction  during  the  last  year. 
We  started  yesterday  at  seven  o'clock;  at  a  station  about  half- 
way here,  one  of  the  points  being  wrong,  the  engine  ran  off  and 
plunged  deep  into  a  quagmire ;  the  train  was  brought-up  without 
damage  to  any  one  except  a  poor  boy,  who  was  at  that  moment 
oiling  the  cow-catcher :  he  imprudently  jumped  off,  and  he  was 
so  seriously  injured  that  he  is  since  dead.  "We  ^ot  out,  walked 
to  the  station,  and  in  about  half  an  hour  another  engine  was  at- 
tached to  the  cars ;  we  reached  Osyka  by  two  o'clock,  though,  at 
my  request,  the  conductor  brought-up  the  train  for  a  few  minutes 
to  get  some  specimens  of  a  very  curious  water-plant,  something 
between  a  Pothos  and  an  Orontium,  which  Dr.  Riddell  agrees 
with  me  is  new :  it  resembles  Loudon't*  description  of  Pothos 
acaulis,  having  leaves  quite  destitute  of  nerves,  but  the  spike  is 
hexandrous,  not  triandrous. 

There  was  some  difficulty  in  getting  a  conveyance  five  miles 
to  the  pretty  location,  which  Dr.  Riddell  promises  to  call 
'  Chatawa '  (Silver  Spring).  There  is  a  beautiful  spring  close  to 
the  house,  and  various  mineral  springs,  containing  iron  and  soda, 
at  a  short  distance  from  it.  I  walked  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
through  the  forest,  delighted  by  the  brilliant  butterflies  and 
flowers.  I  found  old  acquaintances  in  our  gardens  at  every  step 
— Viola  cucuUata,  Sisyrinchium  anceps,  Verbena  Aubletia,  Hous- 
tonias;  Phloxes,  Alliums,  and  Trilliums,  a  curious  Asarum,  and 
a  plant  with  two  leaves  (Podophyllum,  May  apple),  which  they 
tell  mc  produces  a  fruit  so  excellent,  and  so  fragrant  when  ripe, 
that  it  oan  be  scented  yardfi  away.    The  people  call  it  May  apple 


276 


DETENTION  AT  08TKA. 


Cri;  if  ';' 


I  shall  find  out  it»  trivial  name,  but  at  present  it  has  only  just 
put  forth  leaves,  and  there  is  no  sign  of  a  flower.  It  is  not  more 
than  a  foot  in  height,  with  toothed  foliage  as  large  as  a  cucumber 
leaf,  but  smooth,  shining,  and  variegated.  At '  Chatawa,'  I  found 
a  numerous  German-Polish  family — children  of  all  ages — fathers, 
mothers,  uncles,  aunts,  nephews,  nieces — very  hospitable  people, 

who  have  sold  their  house  to  Dr.  M ,  with  the  intention  of 

flitting  to  Osyka,  which  will  soon  be  a  place  of  consideration.  I 
had  a  comfortable  bed,  and  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  though  not 
many  of  its  luxuries ;  and,  after  twenty-four  hours  of  enjoyment 
in  a  lovely  spot,  with  every  promise  of  increased  beauty  under 
better  cultivation,  I  got  into  a  wagon  and  left  the  banks  of  the 
TangipahoJL  River  and  the  mineral  springs  which  surround  it, 
with  regret  that  I  could  not  follow  the  projected  line  of  the  rail- 
road (as  yet  only  complete  to  Osyka,  so  called  by  the  first  pro- 
prietor after  an  Indian  beauty),  thirty  miles  farther  to  the  river 
Balaala,  where  I  understand  the  scenery  is  still  fine;  and  perhaps 
I  might  have  done  so  instead  of  spending  another  day  and  night 
here,  for  when  we  arrived  at  half-past  one  o'clock  yesterday  to 
take  the  two  o'clock  cars,  no  train  had  arrived,  nor  has  yet  arrived 
from  New  Orleans.  Either  some  accident,  some  damage  to  the 
locomotive,  or  some  obstruction,  has  occurred ;  and  now,  at  eight 
o'clock  on  Thursday  the  5th,  we  are  still  detained,  without  being 
able  to  gucES  when  we  are  to  have  the  means  of  return.  Still,  I 
am  not  bored — there  is  plenty  of  interest  and  amusement ;  for  I 
find  fortification  agates  and  flint  fossils  in  the  railway-cutting 
above,  besides  the  flowers  of  the  pine  barrens  around,  and  as  long 
as  the  cars  which  were  to  fetch  us  have  not  sunk  in  some  of  the 
swamps  we  yesterday  traversed  (when  the  train  danced  up  and 
down  on  the  line  more  than  was  pleasant,  from  the  boggy  nature 
of  the  ground),  I  am  content  to  wait  here  for  twenty-four  hours 
more. 

New  Orleans^  April  6. — The  cars  came  up  to  Osyka  so  as  to 
bring  us  back  here  by  seven  o'clock  last  night.  It  seems  they 
had  other  accidents  during  their  return  on  the  3rd,  by  runniug 
over  cattle,  till  the  locomotive  jumped  into  a  bog,  fortunatclv 


ASYLUM   FOR  WIDOWS. 


277 


irfnnninlv 


breakii?^*  Its  couplings,  so  that  the  cars  were  left  on  the  line,  where, 
of  course,  the  passengers  sat  up  all  night.  Between  damaging 
engines  and  killing  cows,  the  economy  of  leaving  railroads  with- 
out protecting  them  by  fences,  in  a  country  where  wood  is  of  such 
easy  attainment,  appears  to  me  very  short-sighted.  Thunder- 
storms began  early  to-day ;  they  accompanied  our  journey,  and 
have  been  pealing  and  blazing  all  night.  I  never  saw  such  light- 
ning ;  and  the  torrents  of  rain  are  sufficient,  I  should  think,  to 
overflow  the  Mississippi  and  swamp  New  Orleans,  situated  as  it  is 
lower  than  the  river.  I  cannot  understand  how  this  city  keeps 
out  of  the  water.  I  hear  about  banks  called  levees,  but  Holland 
must  be  a  joke  in  comparison  to  this  amphibious  place. 

April  7. — Yesterday,  being  Good  Friday,  was  strictly  kept 
here :  that  is  not  the  case,  I  believe,  in  any  other  State  of  the 
Union.  The  day  was  gloomy,  but  not  wet;  an  afternoon  rainbow 
gave  promise  of  fine  weather,  which  is  realized  this  morning,  and 
I  hope  to  see  more  of  the  environs  of  New  Orleans  than  I  have 
done  as  yet. 

April  %. — Another  execution  at  Havana.  But  however  severe 
and  cruel  the  Cuban  pcMcy  may  be,  there  seems  to  have  been  suf- 
ficient proof  that  Esta  pes  was  engaged  in  a  conspiracy  against 
Spanish  despotism,  and  therefore  his  condemnation  stands  on  dif- 
ferent grounds  from  that  of  Ramon  Pinto. 

I  visited  a  widows'  asylum,  not  long  opened  here,  which  ap- 
pears to  be  one  of  the  best  regulated  charities  I  have  ever  seen. 
It  does  not  separate  mothers  from  children,  but  offers  a  home  to 
both,  only  premising  that  the  former  are  to  contribute  their 
labour,  as  washer-women,  sempstresses,  &c.  &c.  towards  the  sup- 
port of  the  institution.  A  few  pensioners  without  families  are 
sheltered  and  provided  fir,  when  incapable  of  exertion ;  but  tho 
system  is  one  of  assistance  to  those  who  are  willing  to  work. 

Order,  cleanliness,  and  comfort  reign  throughout  the  asylum  ; 
and  an  excellent  Scotch  matron  superintends  it,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  a  committee.  The  children,  from  infants  of  a  few  days 
to  those  able  to  ^  .ployed,  are  well  trained  and  taught  under 
the  eye  of  their  *..  .;.;  "rs.     All  the  inmates  expressed  themselves 


278 


UNHEALTHY   Lrr\TION. 


*ri 


with  gratitude  ;  in  some  cases  reapectable  aged  widows  had  their 
private  apartment ;  in  others  we  saw  mothers  with  their  own  two 
or  three  children.  Widows  without  families  have  a  separate 
eating-room,  and  live  at  one  side  of  the  house,  away  from  the 
noise  of  children. 

I  heard  an  amusing  story  yesterday,  exemplifying  negro  cha- 
racter. A  gentleman  had  ordered  one  of  his  black  gardeners  to 
widen  a  ditch,  and  as  he  complained  of  the  difl&culty  of  the  job, 

Mr. engaged  a  white  labourer  to  assist  him.     The  two  men 

were  left  to  work  on  together.  Aftor  a  while  the  master  went  to 
see  how  the  job  got  on :  he  found  ihat  the  Irishman  had  done 
three  times  the  work  the  other  had  accomplished. 

'  How  is  this,  Charles  ?'  said  Mr. ;  *  you  have  done  very 

little.     See  how  much  more  the  other  labourer  has  finished. 

*  Ah,  massa,  that  very  true ;  but  white  man  use  to  work.  You 
can't  'spect  me — a  nigger — demean  myself  like  he.' 

And  it  is  generally  so :  the  negroes  consider  themselves  as 
privileged,  instead  of  being  degraded  by  their  situation.  A  black 
complained  that  his  master  did  not  use  him  well.  *  But  how  is 
that ;  pray  do  you  not  get  good  bread  ? ' — *  Yes,  massa,  pretty 
good  bread.' — *  Have  you  not  enough,  then?  Are  you  over- 
tasked ?  Do  you  get  as  much  meat  as  you  like  ? ' — '  Ay,  massa ; 
but  then  the  meat  too  fat — me  don't  'prove  fat  meat.'  When 
masters  or  mistresses  want  change,  it  is  a  common  occurrence 
for  them  to  apply  to  their  negroes,  who  have  almost  always  silver 
about  them. 

It  is  observed  that  many  of  the  Irish  emigrants  have  the  same 
unfounded  notions  of  their  prospects  in  America,  as  those  enter- 
tained by  some  negroes,  of  England.  An  Irishman  begging,  was 
oflFered  a  job  of  work ;  he  accepted  it,  but  said  he  thought  it 
'  very  hard.' — 'Hard,'  said  his  employer;  'what  do  you  mean? 
Did  you  come  here  and  expect  to  pick  up  gold  in  the  streets  ? ' — 
'  No,  not  altogether  that,  but  I  thought  if  I  asked  for  it,  it  would 
be  given  me.' — '  But  suppose  I  divided  what  I  have  with  you — 
what  would  happen  when  that  should  be  gone  ? ' — '  Arrah  I '  said 
Pat, '  I  don't  exactly  know — but  I  suppose  then  we  must  divide 


ii  ";. 


qgam 


I 


PINTO  S   CONSPIBACT. 


279 


or  something  of  tbf   ki 
tion  is  so  low  thai  gc  ov 
but  I  only  wonder  t>  at 
summer.     I  should  1 
On  Sunday  I  attends 


I  cf.miot  wonder  that  this  pln^e  is  unhealthy  during  the  hot 
season;  there  are  deep  gutters  aud  stagnant  waters  at  the  sides 
of  almost  all  the  streets.     It  would  be  a  marvel  if  yellow  fever, 

did  D  t  prevail.  Whether  the  situa- 
lage  is  impossible,  I  cannot  say ; 
j  pulation  is  not  decimated  every 
*>  ttkne  my  chance  in  such  a  swamp, 
•hurch  where  the  singing,  though 
good  in  its  way,  reminded  u^c  more  of  a  Boman  Catholic  than  a 
Protestant  house  of  worship;  it  was  not  congregational,  but 
operatic. 

April  9. — I  have  been  occupied  all  the  morning  writing  letters 
to  England.  The  Illustrated  News  of  the  10th  of  March  gives 
an  apocryphal  report  of  the  *  Dangerous  Conspiracy  at  Cuba,'  in 
which  Eamon  Pinto  is  asserted  to  have  announced  his  intention 
of  assassinating  the  Capitan-Generale  in  his  box  at  the  opera. 
This  is  the  authorized  version,  I  suppose;  but  no  person  ac- 
quainted with  the  character  of  Pinto  will  believe  it  true.  In  '^he 
first  place,  even  his  enemies  adm't  that  he  was  a  man  of  sense, 
talent,  and  principle  ;  and  those  who  know  the  present  state  of 
Havana  must  be  well  aware  that  such  a  plot  would  have  been 
absurd  and  silly,  as  well  as  wicked.  Anonymous  and  false  stories 
are  easily  got  up  and  propagated  when  a  man  is  dead,  and  cannot 
refute  them ;  but  the  time  will  come  for  such  accusations  to  recoil 
upon  the  inventors. 

Certainly  the  black  servants  in  this  country  are  more  petted 
and  humoured  than  even  the  domestics  of  Europe  !  There  is  an 
ingenious  kind  of  diorama  of  the  Pilgrim's  Progress,  now  exhib- 
iting here.  Six  household  blacks,  belonging  to  a  lady  here,  were 
to  go  and  see  it.  In  England  three  servants  would  have  gone 
one  evening,  and  three  another ;  but  here  they  preferred  to  enjoy 
the  sight  all  together,  so  the  mistress  and  her  daughters  undertook 
every  department  of  household  work,  even  to  that  of  the  kitchen, 
that  the  black  ladies  and  gentlemen  might  gratify  their  wishes. 
I  could  write  fifty  stories  of  this  kind,  which  prove  the  kindness 
and  consideratiou  shown  towards  the  race  called  slaves.     The 


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280 


REMABKB   ON   8LAVEIIT. 


,ji 


I  ^ 


name  of  *  dark  children'  would  in  nine  eases  ont  of  ten,  be  more 
appropriate.  It  is  tlie  fashion  with  us  to  cry  up  the  Spanish 
system  in  preference  to  that  of  the  United  States.  Whatever  the 
laws  may  be,  I  feel  sure  there  is  more  of  oppression  and  cruelty 
to  bo  detected  in  Cuba  than  in  all  the  other  Southern  States  put 
together.  We  must  bear  in  mind  that  the  best  laws  will  not 
prevent  the  possibility  of  their  violation ;  and  I  sometimes  doubt 
whether  more  cases  of  cruelty  and  over-work,  and  even  starvation, 
among  apprentices  and  '  maids-of-all-work'  in  Great  Britain  might 
not  be  discovered,  than  we  could  detect  in  the  households  and 
plantations  here.  The  buying  and  selling  operation  is  certainly 
very  unpleasant  and  revolting  to  our  ideas,  and  the  whites  here 
dislike  it ;  but  it  is  curious  how  very  little  is  thought  of  the 
matter  by  the  blacks  themselves.  It  is  not  true  that  women  can 
be  sold  away  from  their  children ;  but  slaves  often  urge  their 
masters  and  mistresses  to  sell  them  for  some  fancy  or  freak,  and 
a  gentleman  to-day  had  a  quarrel  with  hi.^  negroes,  because  he 
wanted  to  set  them  free.  'It's  very  hard,  master;  you  have  a 
right  to  keep  us,  master;'  and  at  last  the  majority  positively 
refused  to  go,  even  though  master  offered  them  a  *  fit  out '  if  they 
would  accept  their  freedom.  I  believe  they  are  quite  right. 
With  all  my  love  of  liberty,  if  I  was  of  the  black  race,  I  should 
much  prefer  being  a  slave  upon  one  of  the  Southern  plantations, 
than  any  free  black  man  or  woman  I  ever  met  with  in  America. 
So,  in  now  thinking  Slavery  not  so  bad  an  institution,  I  act  up  to 
the  maxim  of  *  doing  as  I  would  be  done  by.'  This  week  I  am 
going  to  visit  plantations  in  this  neighbourhood,  but  I  have  now 
seen  so  much  and  thought  so  much  upon  the  general  question,  and 
also  of  the  character  of  negroes  as  a  race,  that  I  do  not  think 
anything  I  may  see  in  Louisiana,  Texas,  or  Kentucky,  can  much 
alter  my  conclusions.  My  wish  has  been  to  seek  after  truth ;  I 
suppose  many  will  doubt  my  having  attained  it,  but  Oiid  thing  I 
know,  that  it  has  been  sought  for  by  an  unprejudiced  mind,  without 
reference  to  any  ulterior  consequences.  No  pains  or  fatigue  have 
deterred  me  from  investigation.  I  give  you  the  fruits  of  it — 
«onsquences  are  not  my  affair. 


THE    MISSISSIPPI. 


281 


Last  night  I  went  to  see  the  diorama  exemplifying  the  Pil 
grini's  Progress,  in  the  hope  that  it  might  make  me  more 
worthy  than  I  am  of  a  work  which  has  been  one  of  the  most 
highly  valued  of  all  Hterary  productions ;  but  in  vain — excepting 
the  Parables,  and  one  or  two  stories  in  the  Spectator,  I  never 
could  enjoy  anything  allegorical.  A  brief  allegory  is  very  well 
—but  an  allegorical  volume  1  I  never  could  wade  through  it ! 

All  the  houses  here,  except  some  in  the  old  town  and  centre 
streets,  have  gardens— jjiot  very  extensive,  generally  from  a  quar- 
ter to  half  an  acre ;  but  the  soil  and  climate  are  such  that  every- 
thing grows  luxuriantly.  Magnolias,  jessamine,  roses,  oranges, 
lemons,  loquats,  and  a  hundred  other  things  beautiful  and  good ; 
and  then  the  mocking  birds  and  butterflies,  and  the  pretty  little 
chameleons  !  For  this  month  it  is  delightful  to  be  at  New  Orleans ; 
but  one  month  in  the  year  in  this  city — that  should  be  all.  I 
would  not  be  a  resident  here  for  any  temptadon  that  could  be  of- 
fered me.  I  wonder  whether  the  Mississippi  will  ever  descend 
from  its  trough  and  make  an  excursion  to  Lake  Pontchartrain  ? 
It  has  wandered  about  here  and  there  in  its  time,  and  it  is  a 
marv  3I  to  me  how  this  same  river  now  keeps  up  above  the  sur- 
rounding country.  It  brings  down  so  much  clay  from  above, 
that  when  the  water  runs  over,  it  makes  a  kind  of  boundary  for 
itself  at  the  edge,  and  this,  with  the  help  of  artificial  levees,  makes 
the  great  stream  stay  in  its  course.  But  I  am  disappointed  to 
find  it  so  ugly  and  muddy ;  they  say  this  is  all  the  fault  of  the 
Missouri,  which  darkens  and  spoils  the  complexion  of  the  Missis- 
sippi after  their  union. 

Thursday,  April  12. — Yesterday  I  went  to  a  wedding.  Like 
all  others  I  have  attended,  the  ceremony  (episcopal)  took  place  in 
a  room ;  otherwise  it  was  very  pleasing.  The  bride  and  bride- 
groom remained  for  lunch,  but  no  toasts  were  given.  The  ladies 
all  sat  down,  waited  on  by  the  gentlemen,  and  when  we  left  the 
room  the  gentlemen  took  possession  of  the  table.  After  dinner,  I 
walked  to  call  on  the  Bi&hop  and  on  Mrs.  Polk.  Visits  in  these 
countries  are  usually  paid  in  the  evening,  to  avoid  the  heat  of  the 
lun.    It  was  the  same  in  Ouba. 


282 


FLAK8. 


Yesterday,  a  clergyman  who  has  been  long  in  the  employment 
of  the  Colonization  Society  for  establishing  free  negroes  in  Africa 
(the  Bishop  presides  over  the  one  here),  called  to  make  his  report. 
His  views  accord  with  those  I  have  advocated.  He  is  convinced 
that  there  has  been  too  hasty  emancipation,  and  that  the  Liberian 
plan  has  been  much  injured  by  a  want  of  discrimination  in  the 
choice  of  the  blacks  sent  out  there.  He  told  us  a  mulatto  from 
Louisiana  was  anxious  to  keep  his  people  under  the  same  control 
which  benefits  them  here,  to  avoid  throwing  them  into  the  contami- 
nation of  Liberian  society ;  but  the  charter  of  freedom  in  that 
Colony  is  so  strict,  that  his  only  resource  was  to  get  far  enough 
to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  mischief,  and  to  bind  his  people  by  the 
apprenticeship  law,  which,  though  good  as  far  as  it  goes,  does  not 
tend  as  much  either  to  the  happiness  or  the  ultimate  good  of  the 
negro  as  the  slavery  system  well  administered.  When  this  is  the 
opinion  of  Ministers  of  the  Gospel,  and  of  Bishops,  not  themselves 
slaveholders,  ia  it  reasonable  of  the  abolitionist  thoorizers  in  Eng- 
land and  America  to  fancy  that  their  opinion  and  their  conclusions 
are  the  only  true  and  scriptural  ones  ? 

On  Sunday  next,  I  find  that  a  steamer  p^Us  for  Texas.  Upon 
good  advice,  my  plan  is  to  land  at  Galves:  icross  a  large  land- 
locked bay,  and  up  a  bayou  to  Houston,  "wlifcre  we  can  procure  a 
stage  to  a  Texas  Washington ;  from  thence  I  can  reach  the  capi- 
tal, Austin,  on  the  Colorado  River,  a  place  which,  though  border- 
ing upon  inaccessible  forests,  I  am  told  has  great  beauty  of 
scenery  in  its  neighbourhood.  I  wish  to  avoid  wild  Indians  and 
poisonous  snakes,  so  I  must  not  attempt  to  penetrate  inland ;  it  is 
said  that  from  Austin  we  must  come  down  somewhere  between  the 
two  rivers  La  Bara  and  Colorado,  to  Matagorda  Bay,  where  a 
steamer  will  be  attained  to  bring  us  back  here,  touching  at  Galves- 
ton. The  voyages  must  be  about  two  days  and  nights  each  way. 
You  will  think  me  adventurous  to  undertake  this ;  but  these  new 
countries  are  so  interesting  to  a  person  fond  of  Natural  History 
and  fine  scenery,  that  one  makes  up  one's  mind  to  undergo  some 
inconvenience  and  difficulty  for  the  great  pleasure  with  which  the 
journey  is  repaid.     Then  there  is  the  stimulant  of  an  only  oppor- 


A  PATERNAL   BLAVBHOLDER. 


283 


tanit]) }  The  idea  that  I  never  again  can  hope  to  have  another 
opportunity  for  transatlantic  tours,  makes  me  willing  to  undergo  a 
great  4eal, — and  on  the  whole,  I  think  Southern  scenery  will  be 
better  worth  my  while  than  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  or  even  Lake 
Supciior.  I  walked  this  morning  from  the  St.  Charles  Hotel  to 
the  cottage,  and  found  Professor  Biddell  returned  from  Chatawa. 
We  looked  at  specimens  of  Orontium  aquaticum,  and  decided  our 
Osyka  specimens  are  not  the  same  Orontium  as  that.     I  then 

went  to  see  Mr.  L ,  who  promises  to  take  me  to  his  plantation 

to-morrow. 

New  Orleans,  April  14. — We  missed  the  train  yesterday  by 
two  minutes,  owing  to  the  ferry-boat  which  crosses  the  river  to 

the  station  being  too  late ;  but  Mr.  L ,  being  a  director  of 

that  railroad,  got  us  into  a  baggage  truck  of  a  succeeding  train, 
in  which,  comfortably  seated  on  boxes,  we  reached  our  destina- 
tion.    Mr.  L carried  a  bag  of  sugar-pluu.s  for  the  little 

negroes.     We  saw  more  than  fifty  under  ten  years  of  age  on  the 

two  plantations.    The  black  people  seemed  to  consider  Mr.  L 

more  in  the  light  of  their  father  than  their  master,  their  black 

hands  held  out  to  him  and  Mrs.  F ,  without  either  doubt  or 

fear,  and  at  every  corner  some  darky  was  to  be  met,  with  a  re- 
quest or  an  inquiry.  Wo  returned  in  the  evening,  after  apleasant 
and  satisfactory  day,  having  visited  two  sugar  estates,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  from  New  Orleans  on 
the  Mississippi. 

On  hoard  the  Steamer  Louisiana,  hound  for  Texas,  April 
15. — Yesterday  was  a  busy  day.     Before  nine  in  the  morning 

Mr.  D took  me  a  drive  to  dig  up  some  roots  of  a  pretty  Iris 

{Hexagona),  which  I  had  seen  flowering  in  one  of  the  canals 
which  surround  the  city.  These  canals,  half  natural  and  half 
artificial,  are  communications  between  the  river  and  the  lakes  at 
the  back  of  the  city :  they  are  called  Bayous.  At  one  o'clock  I 
went  to  the  apartments  of  some  ladies  in  the  St.  Charles  Hotel, 
from  whence  the  British  Consul  accompanied  us  to  the  stand  on 
the  course,  from  whence  we  saw  a  race  between  two  celebrated 
horses,  Lexington  and  Leconte.     A  few  days  before,  the  former 


284 


A  HIGH-METTLED   RACER. 


won  a  matoli  against  time,  by  going  four  miles  in  seven  minntes 
and  twenty  seconds ;  he  now  beat  his  antagonist  with  such  case 
the  first  four-mile  heat,  that  the  owner  of  Leconte  requested 
leave  to  withdraw  bis  horse,  and  the  people  wrre  disappointed  of 
the  expected  second  heat.  I  was  glad,  being  quite  content  that 
the  fine  animals  should  be  excused  further  contest.  Though  I 
have  often  been  at  English  races,  I  never  before  saw  a  horse 
more  graceful,  or  more  beautifully  formed,  with  such  apparent 
gentleness  and  good  temper,  and  yet  with  such  an  air  of  conscious 
superiority  as  this  Lexington:  he  ran  like  a  deer,  without  either 
efibrt  or  straining,  and  his  firm,  elastic,  reaching  step  in  walking, 
gave  one  confidence  that  it  would  hardly  be  possible  for  any 
other  horse  to  match  him.  Yet  he  has  four  very  white  feet, 
which  hitherto  has  been  considered  a  bad  sign;  his  colour  a 
bright  dark-bay,  with  white  star  on  his  forehead ;  not  a  very 
small  head,  but  with  ears  well-placed;  a  fine  large  tail;  not 
bony-looking,  but  I  was  told  his  backbone  is  remarkably  large ; 
fifteen  hands  three  inches  high ;  one  eye  full  and  wild,  but  the 
right  eye  less  convex ;  nostrils  large ;  jawbone  uncommonly  wide; 
shoulder  strong  and  very  oblique ;  he  has  not  a  long  back  or  long 
legs,  but  his  action  is  quite  beautiful,  so  powerful,  free  and  elas- 
tic, as  if  movement  was  no  trouble  to  him.  Thus,  I  have  written 
you  a  rather  groomish  history.  I  don't  know  that  I  ever  took 
so  much  pains  to  describe  a  horse  before,  but  -really  this  one  was 
worth  the  pains.  The  ground  was  much  crowded ;  it  is  a  two- 
mile  course — ^no,  by-the-bye,  the  horses  went  three  times  round 
to  make  up  their  four  miles.  The  situation  between  the  New 
Orleans  Cemeteries  and  Lake  Pontchartrain ;  near,  and  upon  the 
course,  are  some  fine  live  oaks  ornamented  by  the  drooping  Til- 
landsia.  In  the  evening  I  went  to  the  Opera,  where  I  saw  many 
Creole  beauties ;  but  the  opera  was  a  new  one,  which  I  did  not 
admire  as  much  as  La  Heine  de  Chypre.     This  morning  at  eight 

o'clock  Mr.  G took  me  on  board  the  Galveston  steamer, 

Louisiana.  The  river  was  calm,  but  very  muddy;  it  is  about 
as  wide  here  as  the  Thames  at  Greenwich.  The  town  and  ship- 
ping looked  gay  under  a  brilliant  morning  sun.    I  meant  to  send 


LETTEB,  FROM  ENOLAND. 


2SS 


this  letter  from  New  Orleans,  but  forgot  to  do  bo,  and  now  I 
shall  try  to  get  it  off  from  Texas. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


Extracted  from  an  English  Letter,  hy  permission. 

March,  1855. 
To  me  much  has  happened,  within  the  last  few  months,  show- 
ing manhood  and  womanhood.  This  expedition  of  nurses — this 
woman's  crusade  in  the  service  of  the  sufferers  by  war  and  pesti- 
lence ;  Florence  Nightingale  entreated  rather  than  requested  by 
the  government  to  take  the  command ;  in  one  week  the  necessary 
preparations  were  made — Protestants,  Catholics,  Sectarians,  all 
forgot  their  isms^  and  verified  the  story  in  Evenings  at  Home. 
Look  at  the  consequences,  independently  of  the  direct  object.  A 
woman  is  called  upon  by  the  public  to  take  a  lead  in  the  humane 
department  of  war,  amidst  difficulties  and  dangers  which  it  has 
hitherto  been  thought  indelicate  for  a  woman  to  encounter,  yet 
she  is  of  the  true  feminine  type — of  a  caste  accustomed  to  the 
luxuries  and  refinements  of  life,  not  blighted  by  misfortune,  in 
the  vigou*  of  youth,  not  exalted  by  party  influences,  for  she  be- 
longs to  no  party.  The  truth  has  done  it.  Perhaps  the  two  finest 
instances  of  heroism  in  the  British  campaign  are  these — the  death  of 
Sir  William  Young  when  giving  the  precious  draught  to  a  wound- 
ed Russian,  receiving  in  return  a  mortal  shot ;  the  absolute  lone- 
linesss  of  Dr.  Thomson,  left  with  hundreds  of  the  dead  and  dying, 
and  certatn  to  be  visited  by  Cossacks,  fulfilling  his  ministry, 
escaping  then,  to  die  a  few  days  after  of  cholera ;  and  what  can 
surpass  the  exploit  of  the  more  fortunate  Lieutenant  Maxse, 
riding  through  a  tract  of  country  occupied  by  the  Russians,  to 
carry  in  his  own  breast  (for  writing  was  not  safe)  orders  from 
Lord  Baglan  to  the  fleet  ?  And  the  poet  has  mingled  his  breath 
with  the  cannon's  roar  and  the  last  pulsation  of  the  soldier's 
heart :  a  soldier  from  the  ranks  was  heard  by  one  near  him  ou 
the  battle-field,  to  utter  with  his  last  breath—'  Footprints  on  the 
sands  of  time ; '  the  soldier  was  from  Brighton,  and  the  writer  of 


286 


ADDRESS   TO    AMERICANS. 


the  aoconnt  did  not  know  the  words  to  be  Longfellow's :  h   lud 
heard  them  quoted  in  a  sermon  of  Kobertson's. 

ON  THE  DEATH  OF  NICHOLAS. 

He  fell  like  a  column  which,  firm  at  its  base, 

Was  unshaken  a  moment  before. 
No  vestige  of  crumbling  decay  marked  the  place 

Where  it  stood — ^the  wide  world  looking  o'er. 

"Twas  not  for  the  hand  of  a  mortal  to  dare 

The  red  bolt  of  vengeance  to  grasp ; 
He  seiz'd  it  unshrinking — ^he  voVd  not  to  spare. 

But  fatal  fire  bum'd  in  that  grasp. 

,      For  Power  is  a  Nemesis,  sent  to  destroy 
The  will  that  submits  not  to  law : 
Once  mors  'tis  revealed !  Oh,  profane  not  with  joy 
What  nations  should  mtness  with  awe  I 
JTorcA,  1856. 


ADDRESS  TO  AMERICANS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

ON  TBEIB  RKPORTED  WANT  OF  STMPATHT. 

*  Am  I  my  brother's  keeper? '  says  the  New  World  to  the  Old ; 
It  cannot  be,  it  cannot  be  I  your  hearts  have  grown  so  cold 
That  ye  can  hear,  without  one  pang,  the  diige  across  the  wave 
For  England's  bravest  sons  who  find  on  Eastern  shores  a  grave. 

Has  every  drop  of  Saxon  blood  been  chased  from  out  your  veins  ? 
Are  not  our  ancient  glories  yours,  although  ye  scorned  our  chains* 
Ev'n  then  ye  proved  one  ancestry,  a  kindred  bond  of  yore. 
With  those  bold  men  of  Runnymede  who  Freedom's  charter  bore. 

Oh !  by  that  name— by  every  field  our  noble  fathers  won, 
Ere  yet  your  fearless  bark  of  faith  had  sought  the  Western  sun. 
Disown  not  now  the  common  cause — betray  it  not  to  might. 
Nor  dare  to  raise  a  neutral  flag  when  Wrong  contends  with  Right. 

A.LN.  B» 


LETTER  XXm. 


Nkw  Ohlkakb.  ) 
April  6, 1865.  f 

My  dear  Feiends, — 

At  last  your  letters  dated  January  have  reached  me ;  pro- 
bably more  will  come  by  a  steamer  which  I  see  has  arrived  at 
Boston :  it  is  well  that  a  treble  or  a  double  set  did  not  come  at 

once.     Only  now  I  am  made  aware,  for  the  first  time,  of 's 

resignation  of  the  editorship  she  volunteered.  I  don't  think  I 
should  ever  have  thought  of  the  publication  if  she  had  not  pro- 
posed it,  but  I  could  not  write  to  her  what  I  did  not  see  or  think. 
I  am  sorry,  and  think  she  had  better  have  trusted  to  my  endea- 
vour to  tell  the  truth,  which,  if  it  is  not  the  trttti ,  can  never 
hart  any  cause :  but  the  subject  in  question  is  too  serio  iS  a  mat- 
t'T  to  be  blinked  for  the  sake  of  any  individual  friendship  or  in- 
dividual interest,  and  at  any  cost  I  must  sacrifice  the  opinions  and 
impressions  of  friends  to  my  own  honest  convictions.  I  might 
hesitate  or  doubt,  if  I  trusted  only  or  wholly  to  my  own  unaided 
judgments  and  perceptions ;  but  when  these  are  justified  by  the 
opinions  of  nearly  all  the  people  who  appear  to  me  in  other  re- 
spects the  best  and  wisest  on  this  side  the  Atlantic — ^for  though 
authority  may  not  be  much,  evidence  is  a  great  deal,  and  I  feel 
supported  and  encouraged  by  a  hope  that  I  may  at  any  rate  do 
something  to  counteract  the  evils  which  in  my  judgment  have 
arisen  out  of  mistaken  and  superficial  inquiries — Northern  clergy- 
men in  Florida,  Scotch  ministers  in  the  North,  and  bishops  with 
dioceses  each  as  large  as  all  England ;  men  devoted  to  religion, 


288 


TRAKSATLANTIO    BrMPATHT. 


pi 


charity,  and  learning — self-sacrificers,  fearless,  incorruptible ;  men 
who  have  never  quailed  or  hesitated  in  the  most  difficult  and  awful 
paths  of  duty,  when  cholera  lay  on  their  right  hand  and  yellow 
fever  on  their  left ;  Bishops  of  Georgia  and  of  Louisiana — Elliott, 
the  nurse,  the  consoler,  the  comforter — walking  calmly  about 
among  the  pestilential  corpses  of  thousands  of  his  fellow-citizens 
—can  such  a  man  as  this  be  blinded  by  interest  or  prejudice  to 
say  that  apparent  slavery  is  in  most  cases  real  freedom  to  the  black 
man,  and  a  severe  trial  of  responsibility  only  to  the  white  ?  I 
cannot  help  fearing  that  we  have  been  running  a  tilt  against  civi- 
lization and  the  best  interests  of  religion,  whilst  in  our  ignorance 
we  have  fancied  ourselves  the  champions  of  Christendom  ?  Some 
of  my  friends  in  the  North  say  i«<  is  the  abolitionists  only  who 
have  sympathized  with  England  during  her  late  sorrows.  I  am 
glad  they  have  felt  sympathy ;  but  I  find  sympathy  also  among  the 
people  we  have  ill-used  and  vilified,  and  that  is  even  more  touching 
and  precious  than  the  kindly  feeling  of  those  whose  mistakes  we 
haved  petted  and  encouraged.  I  am  afraid  what  I  am  writing 
will  not  please  any  of  you ;  but  do  not  fancy  I  have  been  hood- 
winked and  cheated  into  an  advocacy  of  Southern  institutions, 
when,  wholly  unknown  and  unsuspected,  I  have  seen  with  my  own 
eyes,  and  heard  with  my  own  ears.  Of  course  I  cannot  write  half 
the  evidence  I  have  collected ;  evils  I  do  not  deny ;  and  where 
are  they  not  to  be  found  ? 

It  is  now  as  cold  here  as  Christmas,  and  as  cold  as  November. 

Many  thanks  for  the  Multum  in  Parvo.  does  not  say  if  she 

undertakes  the  editc  rship  which repudiates :  if  not,  it  must 

wait  till  I  get  back.     I  do  not  wish  to  wear  out 's  eyes  or 

patience,  but,  to  avoid  a  bad  return  for  the  hospitalities  shown 
me,  I  have  mentioned  here  the  intended  publication,  a  strong 
interest  in  the  matter  has  been  expressed,  and  I  am  assured  by 
my  American  friends  that  they  will  not  complain  of  my  abusing 
them  a  Utile,  because  they  believe  that  I  shall  not  do  so  spitefully, 
which  is  certainly  true  :  but  I  would  not  *  marry  a  slaveholder,' 

as recommends,  depend  upon  it,  if  I  could ;  a  situation  which 

involves  such  a  trial  of  patience  and  philanthropy  would  be  quite 


NEGRO  GHABACTBA. 


289 


beyond  me.  I  think  I  should  turn  savage  myself  if  I  was  bound 
to  be  served  for  the  rest  of  my  life  by  darkies;  only  their  child- 
ishness  could  induce  me  to  bear  with  them.  You  should  hoar 
R illustrate  the  comforts  of  negro  servants !  and  in  my  pri- 
vate opinion  no  earthly  power  can  ever  wash  the  blackamoor  white, 
morally  or  physically;  though  it  is  possible,  by  great  pains  and 
perseverance,  to  advance  them  to  piebaldism.  I  dare  say  I  pro- 
voke you  by  repeating  the  same  things  over  and  over  again :  it  is 
so  difficult  to  remember  what  I  have  written. 

I  am  going  to  stay  for  a  while  with  the  brother  and  sister  of 
my  American  acquaintance  in  London :  her  gratitude  has  been 
80  unbounded,  that  I  believe  it  is  that  which  has  made  me  popular 
in  the  United  States ;  we  met  at  New  York,  and  I  hope  we  may 
meet  again  before  I  return  home.  I  think  of  staying  here  until 
the  weather  improves:  it  is  too  cold  to  think  of  stirring  yet;  but 
I  intend  by-and-bye  to  get  a  peep  at  Tennessee  and  the  Mammoth 
Cavern.     This  is  a  short  letter,  but  it  shall  go  by  the  next  post. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


18 


iW£2^20Io2;ol620202o202o2o 


£»K-i«ii»>:«ii»  a»  -£» 


LETTER  XXIV. 

Galyestoit,  TxzA^  U.  8.,  I 
April  17, 1855.  f 

My  dear  Fbiekds, — 

I  ought  to  have  sent  my  last  packet  from  New  Orleans, 
instead  of  which,  owing  to  hurry,  I  have  brought  it  here,  from 
whence  I  am  afraid  its  despatch  will  be  more  distant  and  less 
secure.  After  a  passage  of  thirty-six  hours  we  arrived  here  last 
night.  Although  the  weather  was  very  fine,  there  was  a  swell  of 
the  waves,  which  made  the  majority  of  the  passengers  unhappy. 

R says  she  was  worse  than  in  crossing  the  Atlantic.    I  was 

not  positively  ill,  but  rather  uncomfortable  yesterday ;  and  as  I 
hear  of  a  mail  route  from  Austin,  the  capital  of 'this  State,  vid 
Natchitoches  and  the  Bed  Kiver,  I  mean  to  return  to  New 
Orleans  that  way ;  we  shall  then  only  have  three  or  four  miles  of 
a  river  steamer  instead  of  the  sea-voyage.  But  it  has  only  been 
by  falling  in  with  a  gentleman  living  in  that  territory  that  I  have 
ascertained  the  possibility  of  a  land  journey.  I  was  told  even 
by  Texas  residents  at  New  Orleans  that  there  were  no  convey- 
ances ;  but  arrangements  in  these  new  countries  are  so  rapid  that 
circumstances  one  year  ago  may  have  been  all  changed  in  the  last 
few  months.  As  yet  I  have  only  looked  out  of  the  window  of  the 
Tremont  Hotel.  This  seems  a  clean,  flat,  sandy  place ;  the  houses 
irregularly  built,  and  all  of  plank,  but  comfortable-looking,  as  these 
wooden  houses  are,  unless  they  are  set  on  a  blaze.  There  are 
many  savage  tribes  to  the  north-east  of  this  State,  but  the  theatre 


PARISIAN  PBRRUQUIERS. 


291 


of  the  present  war  between  the  United  States  and  the  Indiaiis  is 
one  thousand  miles  off.  Beyond  Austin  there  are  Coraanches, 
Pawnees,  Kesways,  Cherokees,  and  Creeks,  and  towards  Missouri, 
the  Osages ;  but  the  Choctaws,  which  tribe  borders  upon  the  Red 
River  and  the  settled  lands,  are  the  gentlest  and  most  civilized 
of  all  these  nations ;  so,  while  the  other  tribes  are  in  a  way  to  be- 
come extinct,  the  Choctaws  keep  up  their  numbers.  They  boast 
that  they  have  never  embrued  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  any 
white  man.  They  have  comfortable  houses  and  a  settled  polity- 
sheriffs,  &c.  &c. ;  and  there  is  an  idea  of  some  day  admitting 
them  as  a  State  into  the  Union.  I  saw  one  of  them  attending  the 
educational  convention  at  Washington  in  European  dress,  and 
looking  like  a  gentleman.  I  should  like  to  visit  that  people.  On 
board  the  Louisiana  I  conversed  with  a  military  man  who  has 
been  through  great  part  of  Florida.  From  him  I  learned  that  the 
river  which  runs  up  by  Appalachicola  is  for  some  distance  like  a 
gulf;  he  does  not  know  if  it  is  lost  in  the  swamps  by  Alligator 
Swamp  towards  the  Altamaha  and  Savannah  rivers,  but  that  is 
probably  the  case ;  and  after  seeing  the  narrow  channels  which 
divide  some  of  the  islands  south  of  Florida,  it  is  easy  to  believe 
that  it  also  was  once  separated  from  the  mainland. 

The  distance  from  hence  to  New  Orleans  by  sea  is  about  four 
hundred  miles.  Galveston  is  an  island.  I  have  just  returned 
from  a  drive  along  some  fine  sands  which  extend  for  miles  upon 
the  flat  shore,  where  there  must  be  excellent  bathing.  The 
population  of  the  town  appears  to  be  a  mixture  of  Germans, 
Dutch,  French,  English,  and  Americans.  Almost  all  the  trades- 
people I  spoke  to  were  of  the  first-mentioned  nation.  I  was 
surprised  to  see  such  a  number  of  hairdressers  in  proportion  to 
the  size  of  the  place :  there  are  three  within  a  stone's-throw  of 
our  hotel, — '  Hyppolite  and  Batiste,'  from  Paris  !  where  hair  is 
'instantly  dyed,'  and  wigs,  toupets,  and  fronts  are  well  made, 
&c.,  &c.  Artificial  proceedings  for  outward  adornment  which 
are  now  little  practised  in  France  and  England,  appear  to  have 
emigrated  to  this  side  the  Atlantic. 

Washington,  Texas,  April  19.— We  left  Galveston  in  the 


292 


BAYOU    NAVIGATION. 


s*i 


"Ml 


Hi 


Houston  steamer  at  four  o'clock,  to  go  fifty  miles  np  the  bai 
and  forty  miles  up  tlie  bayou  to  Houston.     These  bayous  are  very 
curious.     I  observed  one  of  them  at  New  Orleans,  but  not  having 
ascended  it  in  a  boat,  I  was  not  fully,  aware  what  odd  sea-ditchea 
they  are.    They  must  be  peculiar  to  this  coast — I  never  heard  of 
them  elsewhere — and  I  imagine  their  navigation  is  one  of  the 
most  singular  in  the  world.     It  was  a  bright  starlight  night  when 
we  ascended  that  which  leads  from  Galveston  Bay  inland.    I  sat 
upon  the  prow  of  the  vessel,  with  another  lady,  from  eight  o'clock 
till  midnight,  too  much  interested  to  think  of  either  fatigue  or 
damp.     Our  steamer,  near  two  hundred  feet  long,  was  navigated 
the  whole  way  through  a  channel  hardly  more  than  eighty  feet 
wide,  though  deep  enough  to  float  a  man-of-war.     Negroes  holding 
braziers  of  blazing  pine- wood,  '^ood  on  each  side  the  vessel, 
illuminating   our  passage,  the   foliage  and  even  the  beautiful 
flowers  so  near  that  we  could  almost  gather  them  as  we  floated 
by ;  a  small  bell  was  ringing  every  instant,  to  direct  our  engi- 
neers; one  moment  the   larboard  paddle,   then  the  starboard, 
was  stopped  or  set  in  motion,  or  the  wheels  were  altogether 
standing  still,  while  we  swung  round  the  narrow  corners  of  this 
tortuous  channnel;  the  silence  of  the  bordering  forests  broken 
alone  by  the   sobs  of  our  high-pressure  engine,  which  is  less 
expensive  in  construction,  and  enables  a  vessel  to  draw  less  water 
than  a  low  pressure.     Now  and  then  a  night  bird,   or  frog 
croaking  with  a  voice  like  that  of  a  watchman's  rattle,  accompa- 
nied the  bells  and  the  escape  valve.     But  human  voices  were 
awed  into  silence  during  our  solemn  progress,  which  seemed  to  me 
to  belong  neither  to  the  sea  nor  the  earth — it  was,  indeed,  a  kind 
of  amphibious  proceeding.    A  downward  steamer  once  passed  us ;  I 
wan  glad  we  did  not  meet  at  one  of  the  narrowest  places,  for  there, 
I  believe,  they  sometimes  edge  by  one  another,  absolutely  touching; 
but  this  navigation,  however  extraordinary,  is  considered  peculiar- 
ly safe.     The  depth  of  water  being  so  great  and  so  still,  it  is 
difficult  to  understand  how  these  bayous  have   been  formed. 
They  are  deep  trenches  running  up  into  the  interior — Nature's 
sanals — no  streams  come  in  at  the  termination,  and  the  water  is 


KOUTB   TO  WASHINOTON. 


298 


always  salt  or  brackish.  In  two  or  three  hours  aAer  our  arrival 
at  Houston,  we  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  mail  for  this  place ; 
so,  coming  in  the  dark  and  setting  out  before  daylight,  I  know 
little  of  Houston.  It  is  said  to  be  pretty,  but  must  be  flat, 
for  soon  after  leaving  it  we  entered  upon  prairies  which  ex- 
tended for  fifty  miles;  fine  grass  and  beautiful  flowers,  fertile 
though  sandy  plains.  Once  or  twice,  when  we  stopped  to  water 
the  horses,  I  got  out  for  a  few  minutes,  and  while  the  rest  of  the 
party  dined,  I  rushed  back  to  gather  what  I  could ;  but  it  was 
very  tantalizing  to  me  to  pass  all  kinds  of  new  plants  without 
being  able  to  possess  myself  of  them.  In  the  few  opportunities 
afforded  me,  I  got  about  tventy :  one  or  two  of  genera,  and  the 
others  of  species,  either  unknown  or  little  known  in  our  gar- 
dens. 

It  was. ten  o'clock  last  night  before  we  reached  Washington: 
the  driver  declared  we  must  start  again  at  three  this  morning, 
80  I  rebelled,  and  have  let  the  mail  proceed  to  Austn  without 
us.    I  must  give  up  that  capital,  however  picturesque  the  scene- 
ry may  be  and  content  myself  with  visiting  General  Samuel 
Houston,  at  Independence,  twelve  miles  farther  than  this  place, 
and  then  turn  back  towards  the  Red  River.      It  is  useless  to  run 
through  a  greater  extent  of  country  without  pausing  long  enough 
to  see  it ;  and  we  must  be  back  at  New  Orleans  by  the  end  of 
the  month.     The  route  here  from  the  sea-shore  is  very  thinly 
peopled — no  towns,  no  villages ;  and  only  an  occasional  settlement 
here  and  there,  mostly  Dutch.     After  leaving  the  prairies  we 
came  to  a  very  pretty  district,  resembling  English  park  scenery ; 
fine  scattered  trees  and  woods  with  the  brightest  and  most  luxu- 
riant verdure  I  have  seen  in  America.    At  times  the  oaks  and 
the  sand  reminded  me  of  Kent ;  but  these  oaks  are  not  the  same 
species  as  ours,  yet  are  the  Texans  fine  trees.     The  dwarf  *  Black 
Jack '  is  abundant  all  about.     We  passed  the  Brazo  River  in  a 
ferry-boat,  left  for  the  convenience  of  the  public,  without  a  ferry* 
man.     It  was  large  enough  to  admit  the  coach  and  four  horses, 
with  the  passengers,  who  got  out,  and  a  rope  guided  the  whole 
across  a  quiet  narrow  river.     During  our  passage  the  planet  Ve- 


294 


HORNED  FROGS. 


If 


nus  appeared  to  hang  like  a  diamond  upon  one  of  tlie  Lorns  of  a 
young  moon.  They  remained  for  a  while  in  close  proximity, 
but  I  do  not  believe  they  ever  quite  performed  an  eclipse.  I 
think  the  planet  appeared  for  some  time  in  conjunction,  hanging 
like  a  diamond  on  one  of  the  moon's  horns,  which  afterwards 
passed  above,  or  Venus  went  below,  whichever  it  might  be.  A 
fancy  crossed  my  mind  that  this  was  a  good  omen,  beautifully 
emblematic  of  the  Star  of  Christianity,  touching  and  rising  over 
the  Mahometan  Crescent ;  but  I  was  obliged  to  get  into  the  car- 
riage,  and  I  could  not  then  see  the  finale ;  both  had  set  before  we 
reached  .Washington.  As  we  came  along,  one  of  the  gentleman 
passengers,  at  my  request,  caught  a  singular  little  reptile  for  me, 
which  is  here  called  the  horned  frog,  but  it  has  a  tail,  and  is  not 
more  like  a  frog  than  the  gelsemine  is  like  jessamine.  I  shall  try 
to  reconcile  it  to  live  and  become  my  fellow-traveller. 

Since  I  wrote  the  above,  I  have  been  spending  two  days  at  a 
small  town  called  Independence,  and  there  a  boy  gave  me  another 
of  these  creatures,  which  will  be  a  companion  to  the  first ;  and  I 
hope  to  get  them  safely  to  England,  an  offering  to  Mr.  Owen. 
Yesterday  they  both  eloped  from  a  tin  box ;  so  as  nothing  in  the 
shape  of  a  cage  could  be  procured,  I  went  to  a  store,  bought  a 
large  metal  sieve,  and  persuaded  a  carpenter  to  let  it  into  a  cir- 
cular piece  of  wood,  grandly  enough  made  of  the  cedar,  which  is 
used  for  common  purposes  in  this  country :  the  carpenter's  shop 
was  perfumed  by  its  shavings.  The  sieve,  with  the  sand  at  the 
bottom,  is  an  airy  and  pleasant  abode  for  my  prisoners ;  and  I  can 
watch  their  evolutions  without  difficulty;  they  seem  gentle, 
harmless  little  things,  and  being  crustaceous,  and  not  slippery- 
feeling,  I  have  no  objection  to  them.  Their  appearance  is  mos* 
antediluvian,  with  their  fringes  and  horns,  and  birdy-expressioit 
of  countenance. 

I  spent  two  pleasant  days  at  Independence,  where  I  boarded 

R and  myself  in  the  clean,  though  simple  abode  of  a  Mr.  and 

Mrs.  Holmes;  he  is  building  a  house,  in  which  he  means  to  re- 
ceive boarders  and  travellers.  In  the  meanwhile  (although  Mrs. 
Holmes  was  occupied  with  an  infant  only  a  fortnight  old)  he  gave 


FOSSILIZED  FOREST. 


295 


up  his  own  parlour — a  canvas  and  boarded  room,  covered  by  a 
nice  clean  mat  with  a  door  opening  at  once  upon  the  high  road ; 
a  couch  for  my  bed,  and  muslin  curtains — half  crimson,  half 
white — across  the  windows.  This  room  was  quite  free  from  the 
odour  of  tobacco,  and  very  neat. 

I  called  upon  Mrs.  Houston,  and  found  that  the  General  is 
absent  at  Huntsville  ;  but  I  was  invited  to  take  tea,  and  I  spent 
the  greater  part  of  my  time  with  Mrs.  Houston  and  her  pleasant 
family-party ;  she  was  so  kind  as  to  lend  me  an  excellent  horse, 
by  which  means  I  saw  much  of  the  neighbourhood ;  and  this 
morniug  I  rode  twelve  miles  across  the  Awah  River  and  swamp, 
to  seek  for  a  fossilized  forest  and  for  flowers.  A  gentleman  ac- 
companied me  who  was  an  excellent  backwoodsman  and  guide. 
We  crossed  the  swamp  and  river,  which  would  have  been  impas- 
sable during  a  less  dry  season ;  and  before  long  we  saw  a  wolf, 
and  a  singular  bird,  called  a  water-turkey ;  it  has  a  head  and 
form  resembling  that  bird,  but  it  has  also  web  feet,  and  such  a 
power  of  remaining  under  water  that  it  will  dive  for  ten  minutes 
at  a  time.  We  soon  came  to  the  petrified  forest,  which  is  said  to 
be  ten  miles  in  extent.  I  found  fine  specimens  of  fossil-wood, 
whole  trunks  of  trees,  and  large  branches.  The  weight  of  a  bul- 
lock-wagon passing  along  a  track,  had  crushed  one  of  these  fossil 
trees,  and  I  gathered  up  some  specimens.  All  these  stone  trunks 
lie  prostrate.  Further  on,  three  mocassin  snakes  lay  basking 
upon  some  mud  in  the  channel  of  a  small  river,  below  our  path ; 
they  looked  venomous,  though  inert ;  and  I  felt  glad,  to  be  fairly 
out  of  their  way.  A  pretty  small  pair  of  deer's  horns  had  been 
dropped  near  a  bush,  and  I  persuaded  my  guide  to  pick  them  up, 
but  he  having  no  great  liking  for  unnecessary  trouble,  hung  them 
upon  a  tree,  with  an  assurance  that  we  must  pass  the  same  way  in 
returning ;  but  he  forgot  this,  and  returned  a  mile  to  the  right, 
BO  I  lost  them  after  all.  Though  the  weather  was  sultry,  and 
our  ride  tiring  for  the  horses,  they  would  not  touch  water  at  any 
of  the  lesser  streams  we  crossed  because  (Mr.  D  said)  wild 

beasts,  such  as  panthers,  wolves,  and  bears,  had  drunk  there. 
We  saw  the  tracks  of  such  animals,  but  there  is  no  danger  of 


I 


296 


▲  LONELY   SITTTATXON. 


meeting  them,  as  they  take  care  to  get  out  of  yonr  vay.  The 
only  beings  who  crossed  our  path  during  this  long  ride  were  a 
gentlemanly-looking  boy,  about  twelve  years  old,  accompanied  bj 
two  negroes,  all  on  horseback ;  they  were  seeking  horses  which 
had  strayed  in  the  forest.  We  went  as  far  as  some  ancient  In- 
dian mounds ;  and  I  found  Phlox  Prummondi,  indigenous,  upon 
a  small  sandy  prairie ;  in  colour  a  dark  ruby,  very  beautiful ; 
each  plant  vras  a  small  annual,  not  more  than  half  a  foot  high,  yet 
I  conclude  it  is  the  original  of  all  ours.  "We  got  back  safely  to 
Independence  by  three  o'clock,  having  been  on  horseback  since 
five  in  the  morning,  but  I  had  been  too  well  amused  to  think 
about  fatigue. 

Huntsville,  April  22. — This  is  a  pretty  scattered  town.  We 
left  Independence  yesterday  evening,  slept  at  Washington,  and 
came  on  in  the  mail  at  turee  o'clock  this  morning.  The  Brazo 
was  again  to  bo  crossed  in  a  ferry-boat.  A  mile  from  thence 
one  of  the  horses  became  ill,  but  after  laying  down  almost 
immovable  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  he  got  up  and  went  twelve 
miles  without  any  apparent  difficulty.  About  half  way  we 
met  General  Houston  on  horseback,  attended  by  his  negro 
groom.  Nearly  all  the  country  between  Washington  and  this 
place  is  fine  rich  prairie  land,  interspersed  with  picturesque 
oaks;  it  resembles  Somersetshire,  Kent,  and  Windsor  Forest 
by  turns ;  the  grass  abundant,  and  beautifully  green.  We  saw 
some  deer ;  and,  at  one  place  in  the  water  again,  two  of  those 
poisonous  mocassin  snakes ;  I  also  heard  of  bears  and  panthers, 
and  of  a  black  snake,  a  kind  of  boa,  ten  feet  long,  which  moves 
with  great  rapidity,  and  throws  itself  upon  deer  and  cattle,  and 
has  been  known  (though  rarely)  to  follow  and  attack  people. 
We  reached  this  place  just  before  sunset.  At  a  small  log-house, 
in  a  lonely  situation,  a  ladylike  woman  and  her  child,  a  girl  about 
ten  years  old,  got  into  the  carriage.  We  were  surprised  to  learn 
that,  in  the  abscence  of  her  son  of  seventeen,  for  college  attend- 
ance, this  lady  lived  entirely  alone  with  her  daughter ;  she  had 
learned  to  fire  off  a  gun,  in  case  of  emergency,  but  she  confesses 
that  the  alarm  and  uneasinees  consequent  upon  her  lonely  life  is 


OROOKET. 


297 


more  than  she  can  bear  much  longer.  The  roads  here  are  by  no 
means  bad ;  we  had  a  very  comfortable  coach,  well-horsed,  and 
well-driven,  and  there  is  really  no  difficulty  whatever,  except 
fatigue,  in  traversing  this  part  of  the  country. 

Crocket,  Texas,  April  24. — ^We  left  Huntsville  by  half-past 
six  yesterday  morning,  and  arrived  here  by  moonlight  early  in 
the  evening.  With  the  exception  of  scenery  at  Trinity  River 
(which  we  crossed,  as  usual,  in  a  large  ferry  boat),  the  drive  to- 
day (through  deep  sand,  and  in  swampy  places  upon  shifting 
corduroy  roads)  was  monotonous  and  uninteresting :  we  had  three 
companions  in  the  mail,  rough-looking,  but  courteous,  well- 
informed  men ;  all  of  them  Texan  agriculturbts ;  one  had  served 
in  Florida  in  the  Seminole  war,  and  had  lived  much  among  the 
Indians :  another,  a  bright-looking  young  man,  was  returning  to 
his  farm  and  a  father  eighty  years  old,  after  two  years'  wandering 
upon  the  frontier  line  of  Mexico,  hunting  and  shooting.  He  had 
been  among  companions  who  could  not  persuade  him  to  accompany 
them  to  California ;  but  he  said  a  wild  life  had  great  charms  for 
him,  and  that  he  should  find  it  difficult  to  settle  down  at  home. 
He  thinks  Texas  the  finest  State  in  the  Union,  as  it  is  the  largest 
in  point  of  extent ;  and  that  railroads  and  more  people  are  all  it 
wants.  We  passed  many  cotton  plantations  during  our  journey 
to-day,  and  large  numbers  of  cattle,  apparently  of  the  Holderness 
or  the  Durham  breed.  Dairies  are  little  thought  about ;  it  is 
cultivating  beef,  and  oxen  for  draught,  which  is  the  object,  not 
milk,  cream,  or  butter.  One  hardly  ever  sees  cream  in  America 
— never  in  this  State.  Upon  arriving  at  an  hotel,  or  rather 
tavern,  in  Texas,  one  is  shown  into  a  room  where  the  mistress 
(usually  very  young)  acknowledges  the  arrival  of  visitors,  and 
offers  a  chair ;  but  it  would  be  quite  beneath  her  dignity  to  go 
with  you  to  your  room,  or  even  to  see  that  you  have  necessary 
comforts ;  she  '  will  desire  the  servants  to  attend.'  After  a  while 
a  negro  girl,  or  perhaps  two  or  three,  will  show  you  a  bed- 
chamber, and  hang  about  to  watch  you  and  your  packages; 
and  it  is  usually  necessary  to  scold  or  speak  sharply  before  they 
will  bestir  themselves  to  *  fix  the  chamber ; '  and  if  you  are  not 
13» 


298 


ALEXANDBIA. 


&{ 


♦  f 


■1  L 


careful  to  put  your  thkgs  out  of  the  reach  of  curiosity,  a  bery 
will  assemble  as  soon  as  your  back  is  turned,  to  amuse  themselves 
with  your  cap,  bonnet,  or  perhaps  your  combs  and  brushes.  The 
'  lady '  sits  at  the  head  of  the  table  at  tea  or  supper,  but  it  seems 
quite  an  offence  if  you  suppose  she  knows  anything  about  the  bill, 
or  even  respecting  modes  of  travelling  or  distances :  to  any  such 
inquiries  she  will  say  that  '  You  must  ask  at  the  oflBice,'  or  '  In- 
quire of  Mr.  So-and-so — she  knows  nothing  of  such  things.'  So, 
though  the  blacks  make  good  servants  if  they  are  strictly  dis- 
ciplined and  well  watched,  yet  at  these  hotels  they  are  careless 
and  troublesome  beyond  measure.  Twice  during  this  tour,  when 
the  night  departure  of  the  mails  allowed  passengers  but  an  hour 
or  two  of  rest;  I  was  just  asleep,  when  a  black  woman  would  come 
screaming  at  the  doors  waking  me,  saying  she  wanted  to  come  in 
to  '  find  the  blacking-brush  which  is  left  under  your  bed,  missus,' 
or  to  '  look  for  a  quilt,'  probably  to  use  as  a  table-cloth,  or  it 
may  bo  only  an  excuse  to  gain  entrance.  I  positively  refuse  to 
let  them  in,  but  then  I  am  completely  aroused,  and  there  is  small 
chance  of  sleep  afterwards. 

April  27. — On  board  the  Eapid  steamer.  Red  River,  Alex- 
andria.— After  our  long  fatiguing  journey,  we  are  fortunate  in 
getting  accommodation  in  this  comfortable  steamer,  which  will 
take  us  down  the  Red  River  to  the  Mississippi,  and  so  back  to 
New  Orleans. 

Alexandria,  Monday  morning. — I  go  back  to  say  that  we 
arrived  at  this  place  by  moonlight,  after  four  days  and  nights' 
hard  travelling,  but  in  coaches  so  good  and  so  well  appointed 
that,  although  the  roads  were  very  rough  and  dusty,  we  had  no 
cause  to  bo  frightened,  except  in  passing  the  loose  plank  bridges, 
most  of  them  with  no  pretence  of  a  rail  to  prevent  vehicles  and 
horses  from  going  over  the  sides  ;  but  we  were  assured  that  acci- 
dents are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  these  coaches  have  such  fine 
horses,  and  such  admirable  drivers,  that  I  never  travelled  at 
night  with  such  confidence  as  through  the  wild  forests  and  natural 
roads  of  Texas.  As  yet  there  is  no  other  road-making  thar  cutting 
down  trees  actually  in  the  way,  the  stumps  of  which  aie  often 


8KAKEB. 


299 


left  a  foot  high,  to  be  shunned  by  the  driver  and  hi^reies,  who  learn 
from  experience  how  to  avoid  them  even  in  the  dark. 

After  Crocket,  we  left  the  more  open  country ;  but  all  the 
way  to  Huntsville  the  soil  is  a  red  sand,  with  rolling  hills  covered 
by  rich  forests,  but  the  timber  is  not  so  thickly  set  as  to  be  drawn 
up  without  leaves  or  branches  ;  and  we  only  occasionally  passed 
through  a  pine  barren.  Natchitoches  is  a  very  pretty  town  ; 
the  houses  with  nice  gardens,  and  the  drive  through  open  woods, 
containing  a  great  variety  of  trees,  for  some  miles  along  a  raised 
terrace,  from  which  one  sees  a  fine  hilly  country  in  every  direc- 
tion, is  very  interesting,  until  you  come  to  that  which  my  fellow- 
travellers  informed  me  was  the  most  beautiful  twenty  miles  of  all, 
and  then  I  was  rather  disappointed  to  find  that  its  beauty  con- 
sisted only  in  rich  land,  and  fertile  cotton,  sugar,  and  maize 
fields. 

Upon  reaching  a  bayou  which  falls  into  the  Red  Biver,  we 
drove  along  the  shore  of  its  muddy  slow  stream — at  present  so 
low  from  the  long  drought,  that  it  is  like  a  great  ugly  ditch,  with 
snake  fences  and  acres  of  red  flat  fields  on  our  left.  I  thought  of 
the  American  who  considered  Salisbury  Plain  the  most  lovely 
district  in  England.  Part  of  the  former  picturesque  tract  is  dot- 
ted by  cotton  plantations  and  comfortable-looking  abodes.  We 
saw  occasionally  gangs  of  people  at  work  in  the  fields,  under  a 
driver,  but  all  seemed  contented  and  merry.  I  pitied  the  over- 
seer, who  sat  idle  upon  his  horse,  and  thought  I  should  prefer 
being  one  of  the  labourers.  The  black  women  generally  dislike 
being  taken  as  house-servants;  they  prefer  the  work  and  the 
more  general  society  of  the  fields.  We  saw  two  mocassin  snakes 
in  the  water — one  large  snake,  which  is  only  accused  of  eating 
up  chickens,  and  another  big  enough  to  be  a  boa. 

Several  rivers  were  crossed  during  the  day  :  Angelina,  Black 
River,  and  Bayou  Sabine.  This  would  be  a  very  favourable 
path  for  emigrants  into  Texas,  as  a  hilly  country  is  less  liable  to 
fevers,  and  the  people  would  be  more  easily  acclimated.  A  Mr. 
Hall,  at  New  Orleans,  is  spoken  of  as  an  czcellent  adviser  for 
new  settlers.     Such  adventurers  should  arrive  before  December, 


800 


BOTANIZING. 


i 


oome  straight  np  the  Bed  Biver  from  the  Mississippi  as  far  as 
Alexandria,  from  whence  they  would  easily  reach  a  favourable 
locality.  A  party  of  thirty  emigrants,  who  could  purchase  about 
three  hundred  acres  of  ready  cleared  land  for  about  60Z.,  and 
divide  it  among  them,  would  have  a  much  better  chance  of  immo' 
diate  comfort  and  prosperity  than  any  one  individual  taking  the 
whole  quantity ;  and  if  there  is  a  carpenter  among  them,  he  would 
be  the  most  successful  of  all.  I  should  much  prefer  settling  in 
Texas  to  any  other  part  of  the  Union  I  have  seen,  unless  it  was 
the  Highlands  of  Virginia.  There  is  certainly  more  chance  of 
fevers  in  the  South ;  but  if  people  come  in  the  early  part  of  the 
winter,  and  are  not  imprudent,  they  will  be  tolerably  safe.  Game 
abounds  here,  and  fish  in  all  the  streams. 

I  have  at  last  ascertained  what  is  meant  by  the  Ghinquapiu — 
a  nut  which  has  been  frequently  mentioned,  but  till  now  I  could 
never  fit  any  tree  to  the  name.  It  looks  like  a  chestnut  of  a  small 
delicate  kind.  I  have  discovered  that  it  is  the  Castanea  pumila. 
In  a  rich  prairie,  some  miles  beyond  Independence,  beyond  the 
district  called  Atewa,  I  found  a  beautiful  Phlox,  of  a  rich  velvety 
crimson.  It  may  be  that  one  described  in  Darby's  Botany  of  the 
Southern  States  as  *  pilosa,'  or  the  original  Drummondi,  but  I 
should  call  it  crimson,  not  purple.  It  appears  to  be  confined  to 
the  locality  above  named  I  have  not  seen  or  heard  of  it  any- 
where else.  A  few  miles  south  of  Intiependence,  a  beautiful 
bright  sky-blue  Ixia-looking  flower,  unlike  any  Sisyrinchium  I 
ever  saw,  though  I  think  it  must  be  one.  Texas  can  hardly  yet 
have  been  thoroughly  botanized,  so  that  it  is  not  impossible  for 
me  to  fall  in  with  new  plants.  I  brought  the  two  little  Crusta- 
ceans on  my  lap  all  the  way  from  Washington.  They  appear  in 
good  health,  and  tolerably  well  content  with  their  sieve.  I  think 
that  they  must  be  examples  in  the  reptile  creation  (as  the  family 
of  Alligator  Gars  are  among  the  fishes)  of  forms  which  are  gen- 
erally by-gone.  They  occasionally  accept  a  fly  as  food,  and  I  am 
told  they  will  eat  ants  and  ant-eggs,  but,  like  tortoises,  they  seem 
very  independent  of  meals,  and  quite  as  well  content  without  as 
with  them.     Fear  does  not  appear  to  seem  a  trait  in  their  charac- 


RED   RIVER. 


801 


ter.  They  do  not  try  to  escaue  from  my  hands,  or  to  suffer  from 
being  taken  hold  of.  Their  little  horns  and  bony  excrescences 
are,  I  suppose,  considered  sufficient  defence.  They  are  the  gen- 
tlest and  least  aggressive  creatures  I  ever  met  with. 

We  are  hospitably  sheltered  on  board  the  Bapid,  but  she  has 
engagements  which  will  detain  her  here  till  to-morrow  morning, 
BO  I  must  be  content  in  the  meanwhile  to  make  acquaintance  with 
mocking-birds,  '  whip-poor-wills,'  alligators  and  fireflies,  all  of 
which  abound  on  the  Ked  River ;  and  I  have  also  found  one  or 
two  more  flowers  new  to  me,  by  walking  on  shore  this  afternoon. 
On  the  shore,  too,  I  saw  trails  of  snakes  across  a  sandy  path. 
One  must  have  been  very  large ;  but  as  we  kept  the  road  we 
were  not  afraid,  for  these  reptiles  generally  get  out  of  the  way  of 
intruders. 

April  28. — We  began  moving  down  the  Red  River,  towards 
the  Mississippi.  The  two  days  before,  our  steamer  was  occupied 
taking  in  freight — cotton,  sugar,  and  molasses — and  a  large  por- 
tion was  put  into  a  barge  attached  to  the  Rapid,  to  prevent  her 
drawing  too  much  water  in  passing  a  shallow.  When  that  was 
accomplished,  the  additional  cargo  was  shipped,  and  the  barge  left 
behind.  Alligators  were  plentiful  along  the  shore  to-day ;  pretty 
white  cranes  and  occasional  water-turkeys  accompanied  our  pas- 
sage. A  gentleman  on  board  described  a  bird  he  had  shot  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Red  River,  which  must  resemble  the  Apteryx 
from  Australia,  to  be  seen  in  the  Regent's  Park  Zoological  Gar- 
dens, except  that  it  is  smaller. 

Before  the  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  the  Red  River  opens 
out  into  what  is  called  Old  River,  because  it  is  believed  to  be  an 
ancient  bed  cf  the  Mississippi.  We  have  now  got  into  the  main 
channel  of  the  latter  stream ;  but  its  shores  have  not  yet  become 
flat  and  uninteresting,  for  we  are  still  in  the  rolling  country  of 
red  sand,  from  which  the  Red  River  derives  its  appellation  and 
muddy  complexion. 

April  30. — Just  arrived  by  five  o'clock  at  New  Orleans,  after 
a  Quiet  and  nleasant  voyaire.  NothitiD-  remarkable  vesterdav, 
except  the  town  of  Baton  Rouge,  which  is  prettily  situated  on 


802 


SCARCITY   OF   WORKMEN. 


im 


the  banks  of  the  river.  It  boasts  of  the  State-house  and  a  fort, 
and  is  considered  the  capital  of  Louisiana.  I  observe  that  the 
local  governments  generally  hold  their  sittings  at  those  places 
which  in  point  of  size  are  third-rate.  There  is  a  certain  jealousy 
of  influence  of  large  cities,  which  prevents  them  from  being 
selected  for  legislative  meetings.  The  Mississippi  banks  are  much 
prettier  about  a  hundred  miles  above  New  Orleans,  where  the 
chalky  formation,  which  follows  the  alluvial,  and  precedes  the 
red  sandston^  rocks  in  all  the  Southern  States  and  in  Cuba,  begins 
to  rise  above  flat  plantations  of  cotton,  maize,  and  sugar. 

After  leaving  the  Red  Banks,  I  saw  no  more  alligators,  though 
I  believe  they  are  occasionally  to  be  found  below.  We  have  been 
fortunate  in  a  bright  moon,  which  has  almost  turned  night  into 
day.  I  have  seen  no  fossils  either  before  or  after  the  red  sand  iu 
Texas  or  Louisiana,  but  I  daresay  there  may  be  some,  as  I  have 
before  found  plenty  of  uummulites,  echini,  peotens,  &c.  I  sup- 
pose all  these  formations  are  what  the  geologists  call  Eocene.  I 
should  like  to  speak  of  new  chalk  as  distinguished  from  old  ubalk, 
for  it  seems  pretty  clear  that  they  are  made  much  after  the  same 
fashion,  only  the  chalk  of  England  is  an  elder  brother,  and  has 
black  flints  and  different  fossils  from  the  younger  one,  whose  flints 
are  brown ;  but  I  suppose  this  proposition  is  very  ungcological. 
A  gentleman  here  has  given  me  specimens  found  in  sinking  the 
Artesian  well  in  New  Orleans;  and  though  it  has  been  sunk 
nearly  two  hundred  feet,  still  it  produces  only  sea-sand,  and 
broken  or  unbroken  shells.  The  Mississippi  appears  to  have 
travelled  about  a  good  deal  in  his  time,  and  I  should  not  wonder 
if  some  day  ho  should  take  a  fancy  to  join  Lake  Pontchartrain, 
and  perhaps  he  may  move  across  toe  city  of  New  Orleans.  I 
1:  ave  seidom  time  to  read  over  what  I  write,  and  therefore  my 
letters  may  contain  repetitions ;  if  so,  you  must  excuse  them, 
All  I  saw  of  Slavery  in  Texas  confirms  previous  conclusions. 
Workmen  are  so  much  wanted  in  that  fine  country,  that  it  would 
seem  impossible  to  abolish  slave-labour,  at  any  rate  for  many 
years  to  come :  perhaps  some  Africans  might  be  benefited  and 
improved  by  being  brought  there.     The  old  settled  states  are 


LETTER  ON    tLAVEKT. 


808 


naturally  unwilling  to  be  troubled  with  frosh  importations ;  but 
I  think  Texan  agriculturists  might  be  willing  to  take  charge  of 
them.  It  seems  to  me  that  kind  and  good  people  I  have  known 
do  not  yet  understand  the  real  bearings  of  this  Slavery  question. 
I  daresay  in  former  times  there  were  more  abuses  than  at  present : 
it  is  the  slaveholders  who  come  from  the  North  who  prove  the 
least  patient  and  most  severe  masters ;  so  I  suppose  abolitionists 
judge  by  what  they  know  of  them :  of  course  there  are  much 
stronger  ties  of  affection  between  masters  and  servants  who  have 
been  born  and  bred  together,  than  between  those  whose  imme- 
diate tie  has  been  only  a  pecuniary  one.  I  must  copy  a  letter 
which  has  been  lent  to  me  by  a  gentleman  here,  in  answer  to 
some  inquiries  addressed  to  sisters  by  cousins  in  London,  after  the 
perusal  of  Mrs.  Stowe's  novel. 

It  is  well  written,  and  embodies  the  opinions  and  feelings  ot 
the  great  mass  of  masters  and  mistresses  in  the  Slave  States  of 
America. 


t  !l 


istates  are 


*  My  dear  Cousins, — 

'  We  render  justice  to  the  benevolent  and  philanthropic 
notions  which  have  led  you  to  write  to  us  in  deprecation  of 
Slavery ;  and  though  our  lot,  like  the  Patriarchs  of  old,  is  cast 
in  a  land  of  bond  and  free,  we  believe  we  may  venture  to  as- 
sure you,  that  our  human  feelings  And  Christian  sympathies 
have  not  been  weakened  or  put  aside.  We  must,  however,  ex- 
press our  surprise  that  you,  and  your  sober-minded,  cool-judging 
country  people,  should  have  allowed  yourselves  to  have  been  so 
much  excited  by  a  work  of  fiction,  however  skilfully  wrought 
out,  and  that  you  should  have  been  led  to  regard  it  as  a  true  pic- 
ture of  negro  life  in  America.  We  have  never  either  seen  or 
heard  of  any  such  scenes  as  are  depicted  in  the  romance  you  re- 
fer to.  How  can  we  believe  that  such  black  saints  and  white 
demons  have  ever  had  existence,  except  in  the  excited  imagina- 
tion of  the  authoress  of  Uncle  Tom  ?  Slave-trading  and  slave- 
dealers  are  regarded  with  as  much  disgust  here  as  with  you,  and 
as  to  the  rapture  of  the  marriage  tic,  to  which  you  allude,  it  is 


304 


LrmCR.   ON   SLAVEAT. 


H 


P  y- 


^li 


,i  > 


the  result  (when  it  occasionally  happens)  of  misfor'nno  to  th« 
owner,  or  of  crime  in  the  slave ;  and  in  your  country,  separatione 
jf  families  arc  caused'  <n  a  similar  way.     It  is  the  exception,  not 
the  rule.     We  have  read  of  such  things  in  England,  as  men  sell- 
ing their  wives  in  a  public  market,  with  halters  about  their  necks ; 
but  surely  it  would  not  be  just  to  charge  such  revolting  practices 
upon  the  English  nation.     So  far  as  wo  have  had  an  opportunity 
of  judging,  there  is  much  less,  rather  than  more,  misery  and  'dis- 
tress among  our  slaves  than  among  your  labourers:  they  ,  ^ 
generally  well-treated,  happy,  and  content ;  and  certaiuly  htilt- 
interest,  if  no  other  motive,  must  induce  their  owners  to  treat 
them  well.     Religion  is  cultivated  among  them,  luid  in  our  Sun- 
day-schools classes  of  black  children  under  a  white  teacher  are 
common.     In  fact,  one  of  us  offered  once  to  take  such  a  class ; 
but  the  superintendent  deemed  her  services  more  useful  to  the 
class  she  then  had  under  instruction.     Indeed,  our  sympathies 
are  much  more  frequently  and  painfully  excited  by  the  misery  we 
witness  among  the  pc  .i-,  ignorant,  destitute  emigrants  who  come 
to  our  shores  from  Europe ;  many  of  them  (it  is  said)  shipped  oflf 
by  Union  Workhouses  to  avoid  the  expense  of  their  maintenance. 
<  You  must  bear  in  mind,  dear  Cousins,  that  this  Institution  of 
Slavery  was  left  to  us  by  our  fathers,  and  that  England  intro- 
duced it.     One  of  the  grievances  charged  upon  her  in  the  first 
Draft  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  this  very  institu- 
tion; and  Great  Britain  only  followed  (after  many  years)  the 
early  act  of  our  Government  prohibitinfr  the  Slave-trade.    At 
the  period  of  the  Revolution,  Slavery  prev  j.iijv"'  Li  nearly  ftll  the 
States  of  the  Union :  in  a  few  years  it  ■  '.    >  >-  !>    od  by  seven  of 
them,  and  but  for  the  ill-judged  agitation  of  the  North,  it  would 
ere  this  have  been  done  away  with  in  Maryland,  Virginia,  and 
Kentucky ;  and  in  view  of  these  facts,  may  not  the  subject  of 
emancipation  be  safely  trusted  to  the  moral  feelings  and  intelli- 
tTfciice  ;.i  those  whose  business  and  duty  it  is  to  deal  with  it? 
Che  evil  (if  3^:1  it  is)  is  so  engrafted  upon  our  social  system,  that 
t )  get  rid  of  it  without  producing  greater  evil,  which  would  affect 
the  servant  even  more  than  the  master,  the  euro  must  be  worked 
out  cautiously  and  gradually. 


FlKETT.reS. 


805 


runo  to  th« 
Y,  separatione 
xception,  not 
as  men  sell- 
b  their  necks; 
ing  practices 
I  opportunity 
isery  and  'lia- 
rs: they  aio 
ertaiiily  «el.f. 
aers  to  treat 
I  in  our  Sun- 
»  teacher  are 
such  a  class ; 
useful  to  the 
r  sympathies 
he  misery  we 
its  who  come 
3)  shipped  off 
maintenance. 
Institution  of 
Dgland  intro- 
r  in  the  first 
very  institu- 
y  years)  the  ' 
e-trade.  At 
learly  nil  the 
I  by  seven  of 
rth,  it  would 
Virginia,  and 
e  subject  of 
;s  and  intelli- 
leal  with  it? 
'.  system,  that 
I  would  affect 
st  be  worked 


*  Emancipation  is  not  always  a  boon,  ovpt)  to  the  robust  and 
able  slave;  but  it  would  be  a  orso  to  the  aged  und  infirm,  and 
to  the  helpless  children.  At  the  cost  of  twenty  millions  sterling 
you  have  brought  ruin  and  ultimate  desolation  upon  your  West 
Ii  dian  Colonies:  they  stand  as  a  warning  rather  thau  an  cx- 
;•■  ^le  to  our  country.  We  are  under  the  guidance  and  protec- 
tion of  Divine  Providence ;  and  the  way  in  which,  by  his  infinite 
power  and  goodness,  great  ends  are  attained,  is  generally  beyond 
our  finite  comprehension ; — for  ourselves,  we  are  willing  to  be- 
lieve that  this  apparent  evil  of  Slavery  is  a  means  conducive  to 
a  great  and  merciful  end.  Compare  the  Christianized  and  civil- 
ized American  negro,  with  the  brutal,  idolatrous  polygamist 
African  nations,  and  you  will  find  the  former  advanc(  d  far  above 
the  latter  in  the  scale  of  humanity. 

<  Our  countrymen  are  civilizing  and  Christianizing,  three  or 
four  millions  of  negroes,  who  will  eventually  return  to  Africa  to 
civilize  and  Christianize  the  whole  negro  race.  Is  not  this  a  great 
and  good  result,  and  will  not  the  end  sanctify  the  meany  ?  ' 

The  Idcr  lurther  dwells  upon  the  mischief  which  is  'lone  by 
an  ill-judging  interference,  and  concludes  by  reminding  us  that 
we  have  social  evils  of  our  own  to  attend  to  and  to  cure. 

New  Orleans,  May  1. — I  returned  here  to  breakfast  yester- 
day ;  and  in  the  evening  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G took  me  to  nee  the 

garden  belonging  to  a  railroad  station  at  six  miles'  distance. 
There  I  saw  a  very  pretty  Peruvian  shrub,  with  lilac  fli  wers, 
which  the  Irish  gardener  called  '  Darbyana  integrifolia.'  I  can- 
not say  if  the  name  is  a  legitimate  one,  because  ho  appeared  very 
haphazard  in  his  nomenclature ;  and  as  there  are  few  people  to 
interfere  with  it,  I  suspect  he  sometimes  invents  an  appellation 
when  ho  is  doubtful  about  one.  Roses,  Oleanders,  and  Honey- 
Bucklea  bloom  here  with  a  brilliancy  and  in  an  abundance  bev  ond 
a(i)'thing  I  over  beheld  in  Europe;  and  last  night  the  firefiies, 
sparkling  in  every  direction  as  we  returned  home,  were  very 
pretty.  They  are  brighter  than  our  glow-worm ;  but  as  their 
wings  are  opaque,  they  shine  only  in  flying,  and  their  flights  are 


I 


306 


EFFECTS  OF   THE   DROUGHT. 


Hyii, 


(  .1 


80  transient,  that  they  appear  and  vanish  just  like  sparks,  but 
the  light  resembles  the  light  from  diamonds  rather  than  sparks  of 
fire.  I  am  told  they  are  still  more  numerous  after  rain ;  but  the 
mosquitoes  increase  aiso^therefore  I  should  not  wish  to  double 
the  number  of  either. 

There  have  been  some  serious  burglaries  and  robberies  lately 
in  New  Orleans.  A  black  man  entered  a  house  not  far  from  this 
a  few  nights  ago  ;  being  disturbed,  he  attempted  to  leap  from  the 
window ;  a  gentleman  within  seized  his  hand,  and  tried  to  detain 
him  in  a  hanging  position,  until  assistance  came.  With  the  arm 
left  at  liberty,  the  robber  drew  out  a  revolver  and  shot  his  captor, 
who  was  obliged  to  let  him  go.  The  wounded  man  is  recovering, 
but  a  bullet  in  his  face  is  yet  unextracted. 

Although  this  robber  was  a  black  man,  the  police  in  England 
and  France  being  now  so  well  organized,  it  is  believed  that  many 
of  the  more  desperate  characters  have  taken  refuge  in  the  United 
States ;  either  this,  or  the  want  of  a  strong  detective  force,  has 
caused  a  great  increase  of  criminal  acts  in  America. 

On  Thursday,  the  4th,  I  propose  to  leave  this  place  for  Mo- 
bile; then  to  proceed,  via  the  Tensaw  River,  by  Montgomery 
and  Atlanta,  to  see  the  Stone  Mountain  of  Georgia,  and  Chata- 
iiooga,  in  my  way  to  Nashville  and  the  Mammoth  Cave. 

Great  anxiety  is  expressed  here  for  rain ;  the  drought  has 
now  been  of  long  continuance,  for  the  single  day's  rain  which  ac- 
companied a  thunderstorm  on  the  4th  seems  to  have  been  very 
partial,  and  almost  confined  to  New  Orleans.  The  cotton  growers 
begin  to  despair,  and  all  the  crops  are  suffering  so  much,  that  a 
famine  is  predicted  if  relief  does  not  come  soon;  and,  as  the 
houses  here  look  to  their  great  tuns  or  cisterns  of  rainwater  for 
their  principal  supply,  the  absence  of  wot  weather  is  a  great  dis- 
tress to  New  Orleans ;  besides  which,  steamers  also  are  delayed 
or  stopped  by  want  of  water  in  rivers  tributary  to  the  Mississippi. 

Maj/  2. — There  was  a  total  eclipse  of  the  moon  last  night, 
liner  than  anything  of  tLe  kind  I  ever  saw  before.  The  obscura- 
tion began  from  the  southern  limb  soon  after  eight  o'clock,  and 
the  moon  was  not  bright  again  till  midnight ;  for  one  hour  and 


A   SHOWKR   OF  EAIN. 


807 


forty-eight  minutes  she  looked  like  a  dark  orange,  much  smaller 
than  usual ;  but  she  was  visible  throughout,  except  after  she  be- 
gan to  brighten  up  again,  when  a  few  clouds  passed  over,  and  ren- 
dered her  invisible  for  a  short  time.  The  wise  and  anxious  hope 
for  rain  after  this  event.  My  horned  frogs  (for  so  I  must  call 
them  till  a  better  name  is  provided)  excite  great  interest;  although 
they  are  not  entirely  unknown  to  people  here,  nobody  can  say 
whether  any  living  specimens  have  been  sent  to  England.  I 
wished  to  show  them  to  Dr.  Riddell,  but  he  is  gone  up  to  Chatawa 
with  his  family,  and  he  is  not  likely  to  return  till  after  my  de- 
parture. A  heavy  shower  of  rain  has  fallen  this  afternoon,  and 
it  is  hoped  that  more  will  follow.  An  opportunity  occurring,  I 
shall  close  this  letter,  and  probably  not  forward  another  packet 
till  I  reach  Cincinnati  or  Indianapolis. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


i| 


4  A 


i'1' 

Hy 


1 1 


ir 


i 


H, 


H  t 


I 


LETTEE  XXV. 


Atlanta,  Alabama,  U.  8., ) 
May  1,1666.  ] 

My  dear  Friends, — 

After  five  days'  haxd  travelling,  we  got  here  this  evening — I 
should  say  five  days  and  three  nights ;  for  with  the  exception  of 
one  night's  rest  at  Mobile,  and  one  (till  five  this  morning)  at  Mont- 
gomery, since  leaving  New  Orleans,  on  Thursday  last,  we  have 
never  paused  an  hour  anywhere.  Night-work  is  the  only  serious 
obstacle  to  journeying  in  America :  it  is  very  fatiguing,  and  where 
there  is  a  pretty  country  to  pass  through,  very  disappointing  to 
strangers ;  both  in  Texas  and  Alabama  this  evil  at  present  is  in- 
corrigible ;  because,  through  wide  districts,  there  are  no  places  to 
pause  at,  and  the  mail  being  the  only  means  of  conveyance,  of 
course  it  cannot  be  detained  for  any  one.  I  might  have  attempted 
to  get  up  the  Alabama  River  from  Mobile,  but  the  water  being 
low,  there  was  considerable  risk  of  grounding  for  some  days  upon 
sandbanks  ;  besides  which,  I  see  more  of  the  country  and  of  the 
vegetation  by  coach-travelling;  and  although  it  is  often  very  tan- 
talizing to  pass  by  trees,  and  shrubs,  and  flowers,  either  new  or 
rare,  without  being  able  to  get  at  them,  still  it  is  something  to 
observe  the  botanical  features  of  a  district ;  and  by  taking  every 
oppoi'tunity,  during  a  clmnge  of  horses  or  a  stop  for  meals,  I  have 
secured  several  interesting  specimens,  and  sometimes  get  a  sketch. 
From  New  Orleans  a  steamer  brought  us  in  about  fourteen  hours 


h 


STREET  AROHTTECTTTRE. 


809 


to  Mobile :  that  town  is  prettily  situated  along  the  bay ;  it  seema 
a  pleasant  place  of  residence,  with  a  hotel  (Battle  House),  the 
best  managed  I  have  met  with  in  the  United  States ;  for  usually, 
with  a  great  deal  of  show,  these  places  are  conducted  upon  so 
little  system,  and  with  so  little  real  comfort,  that  I  much  prefer 
European  inns  to  the  most  gorgeous  American  hotels;  and  in 
point  of  expense,  the  latter  equal,  if  they  do  not  exceed,  the  former. 
Government-street  in  Mobile  is  also  the  handsomest  street  I  have 
seen  anywhere  :  it  consists  of  detached  houses  with  gardens ;  some 
bave  the  usual  fault  in  this  country  of  being  v/hitened  to  a  daz- 
zling and  unnatural  whiteness ;  but  a  custom  house  is  in  process  of 
erection,  with  granite  of  a  soft  grey  colour,  and  it  seems  likely  to 
be  an  example  of  good  architecture,  as  well  as  of  pleasing  tint 
An  agreeable  family  (to  whom  I  waf?  introduced  by  my  friend  Mr, 

W ,  of  Baltimore)  made  me  profit  as  much  as  possible  by  the 

few  hours  I  was  able  to  stay  at  Mobile :  they  chose  a  pretty  drive, 
and  I  was  enabled  to  visit  the  first  interesting  nursery-garden  I 
have  met  with ;  there  I  saw  Cactus  triangularis,  with  hanging 
roots.  I  was  told  that  a  gentleman  at  Cincinnati  had  the  best 
collection  of  cacti.*  Next  day,  Saturday,  a  steamer  received  ua 
on  board,  and  leaving  Mobile  Bay,  we  went  up  the  river  Tensaw, 
a  stream  beautiful  as  the  Altamaha,  and  bordered  by  woods  far 
exceeding  those  of  Georgia:  live  oaks,  catalpas,  magnolias  (as 
large  as  elms),  just  oome  into  blow ;  the  macrophylla  with  its 
flower  still  sweeter  and  more  splendid  than  the  grandifllora,  melias, 
gleditzchias,  cedars,  sweet  and  black  gum-trees,  &o.,  with  huge 
alligators  occasionally  basking  beneath  these  verdant  shores,  and 
elegant  birds  flying  above  them. 

At  Stockport  we  found  two  roomy  four-horse  coaches  waiting 

for  passengers :  five  gentlemen,  R ,  and  I  took  possession  of 

one  intended  to  hold  nine  inside,  which  would  have  been  close 
packing ;  so  we  were  fortunate  in  not  being  quite  as  much  cramped 
as  we  might  have  been.  Nearly  the  whole  two  hundred  miles 
to  this  place  is  deep  sand,  varying  from  white  to  red|  at  first, 


Since  destroyed  by  fire. 


810 


MONTGOMERY. 


Pi  '■ 


ill 


i'W 


->) 


through  pine  barrens  like  those  of  Florida,  only  covering  a  rolling 
country  instead  of  a  flat  one ;  but  within  fifty  miles  of  Montgom- 
ery the  forest  becomes  as  various,  and  as  rich,  and  as  hilly,  as  that 
of  the  eastern  part  of  Texas,  and  much  resembling  it  in  character 
and  in  soil — a  red  iron-sand.  At  one  of  the  little  post-houses  I 
got  a  nodule  of  iron  ore,  which  they  said  was  plentiful  in  the 
neighbourhood.  By  midnight  wo  arrived  at  Montgomery,  a  clean- 
looking,  gas-lit  town,  of  which  I  could  not  see  a  great  deal,  for  it 
was  necessary  to  be  in  the  railroad  cars  by  six  the  next  morning. 
A  short  distance  from  Montgomery  the  line  was  bordered  on  each 
side  by  hedges  of  Cherokee  roses,  vivid  evergreens  with  single 
white  blossoms,  and  the  foliage  so  thick  that  it  is  said  not  even  a 
snake  can  get  through  it :  then  we  went  by  the  prettiest  scenery 
of  all — passing  the  rivers  Coosa  and  Tallapoosa,  and  near  the 
spot  where  General  Jackson  fought  his  '  Battle  of  the  Horseshoe' 
with  the  Cherokees  and  Choctaws.  One  of  my  poor  little  horny, 
crusty  reptiles  is  dead,  in  spite  of  all  the  care  I  could  bestow  upon 
him.  I  fear  the  other  will  not  survive  the  long  journey  in  pros- 
pect ;  perhaps  it  would  be  better  that  these  creatures  should  travel 
at  the  usual  season  of  their  torpidity ;  now,  the  sun  makes  them 
too  much  inclined  for  an  active  life,  and  they  evidently  think  it 
necessary  to  eat  flies,  whereas,  in  the  winter  season,  that  would 
not  be  requisite. 

To-morrow,  I  am  going  some  miles  out  of  my  route  to  see 
what  is  called  the  Stone  Mountain  of  Georgia.  Atlanta  (so  spel- 
led here)  is  a  town  about  eight  years  old,  though  there  was  a  set- 
tlement and  two  or  three  houses  as  much  as  fifteen  years  ago. 
During  my  last  passage  in  the  steamer  from  Mobile,  a  black  woman 
came  and  sat  down  by  me  in  the  stern  of  the  vessel.  From  what 
we  hear  in  England,  I  imagined  negroes  were  kept  at  a  distance. 
That  is  the  case  in  the  Northern  States,  but  in  the  South  they 
are  at  your  elbow  everywhere,  and  always  seek  conversation.  This 
was  an  old  nurse,  an  aunty,  or  mammy,  as  they  are  sometimes 
called  (all  ancient  women  of  the  darky  kind  here  are  addressed  as 
aunties).  She  was  very  communicative,  told  me  she  had  a  young 
mistress  io  Texas  (sisters  have  sometimes  a  common  property  in 


AN    AUNTY. 


811 


elaves  left  by  their  parents) ;  that  she  was  very  fond  of  this  master 
and  mistress,  and  she  ran  on  as  follows — *  ]iut  there  'tis  hard  to 
be  divided  from  t'other ;  but  then  people  must  have  their  'flictions 
in  this  world.     When  I  was  a  young  girl,  there,  I  used  sometimes 
to  fancy  'twould  be  a  fine  thing  to  bo  free ;  but,  there,  I  don't 
now  think  'twould  'be  mighty  fine  at  all ;  there,  I  have  everything 
I  want  in  the  wide  world,  'cept  jewellery,  and  that  I  don't  want 
at  all  now,  and,  there  (some  of  the  coloured  people  have  euch  a 
lot  of  jewellery  you  can't  think) ;  I  say,  Cissy,  now  (addressing 
one  of  her  charges)  don't  go  for  to  tumble  over  there ;  now  if  you 
gets  into  the  water,  we  sha'n't  have  you  a  bit  more,  and  then  your 
poor  old  aunty  will  die  of  it — that  she  will-r-and  won't  see  her  no 
more.     I  say,  missus,  I  don't  let  master  keep  my  children  up  o' 
nights  as  some  of  their  papas  and  mammas  do :  I  says,  '  Master,  it 
sha'n't  be,  it  sha'n't — it  isn't  fit  for  they  little  ones  as  ought  to  be 
in  their  beds;'  and  so  my  children  have  got  colours  in  their  faces, 
that  they  does.'     I  asked  her  what  she  thought  of  slaves  being 
free  here :  her  reply  was,  *  I  say,  missus,  it  does  'em  no  good,  nor 
any  one  else.     If  people  has  a  fancy  to  make  'em  free,  send  'em 
to  Africa,  the  place  they  comed  from,  I  say.     Why,  missus,  these 
free  niggers  are  half  their  time  bad  niggers ;  and  they  does  insult 
they  niggers  as  keeps  to  their  own  masters  and  mistresses,  and 
are  mighty  better  and  happier  too,  and  that  makes  'em  mad  to 
Bee.     It  is  not  right,  missus,  by  the  'spectable  slaves  to  have  them 
there  free  niggers,  with  their  jewellery,  and  their  flowers,  and 
their  'bacco,  and  their  drink,  idling  about  saucy  and  idle,  it  gives 
the  dark  people  a  bad  'kracter ;  and  I  say,  missus,  it  isn't  right. 
Send  'em  away,  I  say,  and  then  they  may  go  and  sit  in  the  sun 
and  do  nothing,  just  as  the  half  of  them  do.'     So  she  ran  on  in  a 
stream  of  talk,  all  much  to  the  same  purpose.     One  question  to 
set  these  people  off  is  generally  enough  to  have  the  benefit  of  all 
their  thoughts ;  but  it  is  better  to  keep  one's  own  opinions  in  the 
background,  for  they  are  so  imitative,  they  will  often  reflect  you 
if  they  can.     The  day  before  yesterday,  I  heard  of  an  intelligent 
negro  just  freed  by  his  master,  after  thirty-six  years'  good  service. 
He  was  fifteen  when  brought  over,  remembered  his  native  tongue, 


mm 


812 


STONE  MOUNTAIN. 


and  intends  to  return  to  Africa.  He  strongly  expresses  his  grat* 
itude  for  having  been  brought  over  to  America,  and  says,  '  Master, 
don't  you  let  white  masters  and  mistresses  hurt  the  Slavery  In- 
stitution. I  say,  Master,  it  be  Good  Almighty's  school  for  the 
coloured  people  it  be,  that  He  have  made.  Why,  Massa,  what 
would  such  a  man  as  me  have  been  without  the  slave  merchant  ? 
How  should  mc  have  got  a  bit  of  education  as  me  have  ?  And 
now  go  and  try  to  give  a  bit  to  the  race  out  there,  who  would  a 
bring  ua  over  ?  I  say.  Master,  we  should  ha'  been  worse  than 
slaves,  but  for  the  Slavery  Institution  that  brought  us  here  to 
know  how  to  work,  and  to  hear  about  the  good  Almighty,  and  to 
know  about  what  we  should  never  have  known  in  our  own  coun- 
try. No,  Massa,  don't  hurt  the  Slave  Institution.'  What  would 
Mrs.  Stowe  say  to  this  Uncle  Tom  ?  lOr  he  is  the  nearest  to  Uncle 
Tom  of  any  negro  I  have  heard  of,  and  he  will  make  a  capital 
African  missionary.  i 

Chattanooga,  May  9. — The  day  before  yesterday  I  went  six- 
teen miles  ou  the  Augusta  railroad  to  see  the  '  Stone  Mountain,' 
which  was  in  all  respects  more  singular  and  curious  than  I  ex- 
pected. There  is  a  comfortable  little  hotel  in  the  small  village 
called  from  the  hill '  Stone  Mountain.'  *  Mr.  Clarke,  the  intelli- 
gent master,  was  so  obliging  as  to  drive  me  himself  in  a  little 
wagon  to  that  side  from  which  the  most  interesting  view  is  to  be 
obtained.  You  must  imagine  an  enormous  granite  bolster  laid 
upon  a  deep  valley,  coming  as  straight  as  the  side  of  a  house 
down  eleven  hundred  feet,  then  rounded  towards  the  top  five 
hundred  feet  more,  smooth,  and  without  vegetation,  excepting 
at  one  spot  towards  the  western  summit,  where  numbers  of  grey 
eagles  are  to  be  seen.  Granite  pillars  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long 
could  bo  hewn  from  its  perpendicular  sides.  It  is  said  to  be  le- 
gitimate granite,  with  brilliant  brownish-looking  mica  in  it ;  but  I 
have  got  specimens  for  geologists  to  decide  upon.  It  is  external- 
ly a  dark  grey  colour.  I  crossed  a  small  stream  to  the  foot  of 
the  precipice.     I  know  none,  not  even  the  Martenswald  of  the 

*  Burned  to  the  ground  the  night  after  I  was  there. 


,1  i 


AN  OBLIOma  LANCLOES. 


818 


Tyrol,  BO  gigantic — I  should  think  that  eagles  alone  could  sur- 
mount it;  A  plummet,  with  the  rope  eleven  hundred  feet  in 
length,  has  been  dropped  in  a  straight  line  from  above  the  spot  I 
stood  upon,  which  resembled  a  beautiful  English  rock  garden, 
bounded  by  fine  trees,  with  thickets  of  Kalmia  latifola  in  full 
bloom  on  one  side,  the  mountain  wall  on  the  other.  After  passr 
ing  a  stream  and  rising  an  eminence  in  a  wood  full  of  scarlet  and 
pink  Azaleas,  I  came  to  acres  of  tabular  granite,  from  whence  I 
attempted  a  sketch  of  the  gigantic  stony  pillar  before  me.  A 
photograph  might  give  a  true  picture,  but  any  pencil  must  be  in- 
competent. I  found  Asplenium  alpinum  in  fissures  at  the  base 
of  the  precipice,  but  no  other  vegetation.  The  flowering  shrubs 
are  plentiful  around,  but  I  saw  few  smaller  plants  in  blow ;  and 
my  guide  told  me  the  earlier  months  in  spring  are  most  favour- 
able here  for  such  things.  He  was  the  first  American  I  have 
met  with  (except  Botanical  Professors)  who  takes  an  interest  in 
flowers.  He  gathered  a  large  bouquet  of  Azaleas,  Kalmias,  Vac- 
cinniums,  &c.,  and  thanked  me  for  having  been  the  means  of 
bringing  him  to  the  rock  garden,  which  he  had  never  visited 
before  when  the  Kalmias  were  in  bloom ;  though  he  had  a  great 
pleasure  (he  said)  in  wandering  alone  about  the  mountain ;  *  but 
then  I  could  never  have  persuaded  my  ladies  to  come  to  such  a 
place  as  this.'  We  had  to  scramble  across  a  stream  and  over  the 
rocks,  certainly ;  but  I  would  have  walked  barefoot  through  the 
waters  rather  than  have  missed  the  scene.  I  do  not  wonder  that 
American  ladies  in  the  mass  look  dispirited  and  '  sick'  (the  word 
generally  used  in  the  United  States  for  ill),  they  take  so  little 
exercise,  and  lose  the  best  enjoyments  of  life  in  their  neglect  of 
natural  beauty  for  artificial  pleasures ;  and  no  wonder  they  are 
victims  of  consumption  and  ennui.  I  returned  to  the  hotel  for 
dinner  and  an  hour's  rest,  then  took  a  young  negro  boy  for  my 
guide,  and  walked  half  way  up  the  mountain,  so  as  to  sketch  it 
from  near  the  eagle's  '  cairn '  (as  it  would  be  called  in  Scotland). 
The  descent  was  hot  and  fatiguing,  but  I  got  back  in  good  time 
for  the  half-past  four  o'clock  train,  and  our  obliging  landlord 
went  to  Atlanta  by  the  same  cars,  and  took  great  charge  of  me. 
14 


mm 


814 


A   JUVENILE   GOACHMAN. 


M 


'  1 


He  expressed  a  strong  viish.  to  visit  England,  and  it  would  give 
me  pleasure  to  pay  him  any  attention  there  in  return  for  a  kind< 
ness  and  courtesy  not  by  any  means  common  among  the  masters 
and  mistresses  of  hotels  in  America,  who  generally  consider  it 
rather  derogatory  to  show  personal  civility  to  their  customers. 

May  9. — By  a  quarter-past  four  in  the  morning  we  left  the 
Atlanta,  and  travelled  here  through  a  fine  country,  only  settled 
within  the  last  twenty  years.  All  the  stations  are  small  villages. 
I  find  Chattanooga  a  pretty  scattered  town  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tennessee  Kiver,  within  five  miles  of  '  Look-out  Mountain.'  In 
twenty  years  more  it  will  acquire  the  population,  as  well  as  the 
name  of  a  city,  here  given  by  anticipation.  I  procured  a  carriage 
at  half-past  two  o'clock,  to  convey  me  to  the  top  of  *  Look-out.' 
I  ascended  by  a  beautiful  drive  through  rocks  and  wood.  I 
walked  up  some  particularly  steep  places,  and  added  two  pretty 
new  flowers  to  my  collection — a  crimson  Lychnis  and  a  pale  lilac 
Geranium ;  but  through  all  this  country  flowers  are  scarce.  I  see 
only  shrubs — junipers,  cedars,  &c. — which  excite  my  wishes  in 
going  along  by  the  cars. 

Upon  reaching  what  is  called  '  the  Pomt,'  a  view  of  Chatta- 
nooga and  Tennessee  Biver.  flowing  through  mighty  forests,  was 
very  fine.  This  hill  is  a  strong  contrast  to  the  Stone  Mountain; 
not  so  unique  in  any  way,  but  still  fine.  Sandstone  rooks  were 
heaped  upon  one  another  like  some  of  those  at  our  Tunbridge 
Wells,  though  this  formation  must  be  much  older ;  and  I  saw 
some  conglomerate  of  quartz  and  sand.  After  making  a  sketch, 
my  very  young  coachman  (a  boy  not  more  than  fifteen)  drove  his 
two  spirited  horses  with  great  tact  and  caution  down  the  rough 
descent. 

We  passed  two  or  three  slight  summer  residences,  built  by 
gentlemen  of  Chattanooga,  as  cool  resorts  for  their  families  in  the 
hot  BcasGP,  and  there  is  also  an  hotel  on  the  mountain.  I  reached 
the  town  a^ain  happily  before  sunset,  without  any  accident  or  dif- 
ficulty, though  I  had  no  one  with  me  but  my  young  driver.  Be- 
ing tired,  I  went  to  rest,  and  slept  for  nine  hours  at  once,  to 
make  up  for  lost  time» 


AMERICAN   ROMANCING. 


815 


Nashville,  May  11. — It  was  dark  when  we  reached  this  place, 
at  half-past  ten  last  night,  so  I  missed  the  last  thirty  miles  of 
scenery;  but  certainly  the  previous  one  hundred  and  twenty  we 
passed  through  is  a  most  .beautiful  district.  I  never  knew  any 
territory  belonging  to  the  old  red  sandstone  that  was  not  beauti- 
ful. The  neighbouring  kingdoms  of  limestone  and  granite  may 
be  more  majestic,  but  then  they  have  sometimes  an  aspect  of 
sternness  and  desolation  never  worn  by  the  red  sandstone.  Here 
are  all  the  beauties  of  Braemar  and  Boss-shire,  and  the  Oden* 
wald,  watered  by  a  river  almost  equalling  the  Ehine  in  breadth, 
volume,  and  colour,  to  which  must  be  added  the  rich  and  varied 
foliage  of  the  south.  This  is  what  may  be  seen  for  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  between  Nashville  and  Chattanooga.  We  passed 
viaducts  over  ravines,  in  which  some  fortunate  settlers  had  estab- 
lished their  log  abodes  in  situations  the  most  enviable ;  and  here 
there  are  no  snakes  and  no  malaria  to  take  off  from  other  advan- 
tages.    I  would  willingly  live  in  Tennessee. 

I  am  up  early,  and  before  going  to  breakfast,  or  being  dis- 
tracted by  thoughts  derived  from  another  fresh  locality,  I  must 
give  you  the  benefit  of  past  observations ;  and  I  want  to  remark 
as  one  of  them,  that  the  Americans  must  not  be  depended  on  for 
information  as  to  facts  regarding  their  own  country,  particularly 
not  for  any  facts  of  natural  science.  They  are  not  sufficiently 
aware  of  the  importance  of  such  things,  and  their  love  of  practical 
jokes  is  strong.  I  might  instance  the  Floating  Island  in  Lake 
Solitude,  which  never  had  any  existence  but  in  the  imagination 
of  its  inventors ;  and  I  will  tell  you  one  story  as  exemplifying 
this  Transatlantic  habit.  An  old  lady,  v/ho  possessed  more  botan- 
ical curiosity  than  is  commonly  met  with  among  ladies  in  this  coun- 
try, requested  a  sailor  nephew,  about  to  visit  South  America,  to 

bring  her  a  Mexican  Cactus  plant.    Captain forgot  his  aunt's 

wish  while  in  that  country ;  ashamed  to  confess  his  delinquency, 
and  not  being  able  to  resist  the  temptation  to  have  his  joke  at 
her  expense,  he  procured  a  flower-pot,  buried  in  it  a  large  rat  all 
but  the  tail  (which  he  tied  in  gardener-like  fashion  to  a  stick),  and 
wrote  on  a  neat  tally  the  name, '  Cactus  Rattailiense.''     When  he 


816 


AORILLE    MURAT. 


I   + 


presented  this,  the  old  lady  exclaimed,  'What  a  queer  plant!  why 
is  it  called  Battailiense  ? ' 

'  Don't  you  see,  my  dear  Aunt,  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance 
to  the  tail  of  a  rat  ?  ' 

'  Well,' said  she, '  that  ii  very  odd;  and  it  certainly  smells 
something  like  a  rat  too.' 

The  captain  went  off  to  sea  again  before  his  fraud  was  discoy. 
ered,  and  trusted  to  the  effect  of  time  and  absence  to  procure  his 
forgiveness. 

I  have  heard  some  curious  anecdotes  of  AcLrie  Murat,  who 
lived  for  some  years  in  Florida.  He  was  considore  1  n  man  of  tal* 
ent,  but  eccentric.  After  the  present  restoration  of  his  family, 
some  one  said, '  Perhaps  in  due  time  we  may  again  see  you  an 
exile  in  this  country.' 

'  No,'  said  he, '  never.  Now  they  have  again  accepted  us  in 
France,  we  shall  cut  their  throats,  or  they  must  cut  ours.' 

Having  once  made  a  few  thousai  d  dollars  by  a  speculation,  he 
presented  his  wife  with  a  magnificent  tea-service,  at  a  time  when 
she  could  hardly  provide  necessaries ;  and  this  was  owing  to  hia 
strong  faith  in  the  *  Future '  of  his  race.  After  his  return  to 
France,  when  he  had  arranged  an  expensive  establishment,  a  per- 
son  to  whom  he  owed  seven  thousand  dollars  applied  for  repay- 
ment, which  Achille  said  was  impossible. 

*  I  thought,'  said  his  creditor,  '  that  living  as  you  do  now,  you 
could  find  no  diflSculty.' 

*  Why,'  answered  the  Prince,  *  it  is  true  I  have  sufficient  to 
keep  up  my  situation,  but  I  have  not  enough  to  pay  my  debts.' 

I  believe,  however,  he  has  since  liquidated  them. 

Since  Louis  Napoleon  became  Emperor,  he  has  presented  a 
complete  set  of  the  'H.  B.'  caricatures  to  the  library  at  Albany, 
New  York  State. 

I  think  these  stories  are  genuine ;  but  I  have  seldom  given 
credence  to  second-hand  information.  I  should  only  have  be- 
lieved Captain  Rollin's  own  account  of  his  sea-serpent,  and  if  that 
calm  observant  sailor  has  fallen  into  the  fashion  of  this  country 


n 


MRS.   POLK. 


817 


of  imposing  falsely-strung  yarns  upon  strangers,  I  must  give  up  all 
confidence  in  the  veracity  of  American  informants. 

Three  Forks,  Kentucky. — After  a  fatiguing  journey  (nine  in- 
side passengers  in  the  mail  coach)  we  reached  this  place  at  eleven 
o'clock  last  night,  setting  off  at  five  in  the  morning ;  and  it  is 
rather  an  unpleasant  consideration,  that  after  visiting  the  Mam- 
moth  Gave,  seven  miles  from  hence,  we  must  take  the  mail  again 
to-morrow  night,  and  proceed  on  towards  Louisville  at  the  same 
hour  we  disembarked  from  that  conveyance  here.  These  inevi- 
table night  journeys  are  what  I  dislike  most  in  American  travel* 
I  have  fallen  in  with  a  gentleman  and  lady  who  are  shortly 
going  to  England.  They  are  so  obliging  as  to  take  charge  of  this 
packet ;  I  shall  therefore  put  off  telling  you  what  I  think  of  the 
Mammoth  Cave  till  my  next  letter,  and  only  add  that  I  found 
Nashville  a  pleasant  town.  It  is  watered  by  the  Cumberland,  a 
river  which  floats  steamers,  but  it  is  much  inferior  to  the  Tennes- 
see both  in  size  and  colour.  A  very  handsome  State-house,  or 
Capitol,  is  nearly  completed  at  Nashville.  Well  situated  upon  a 
hill,  it  is  the  best  architectural  building  for  its  purpose  I  have  yet 
seen  in  the  States.  The  style  is  Ionic :  eight  pillars  support  the 
pediment,  upon  each  of  the  four  sides,  and  the  lantern  above  the 
roof  is  ornamented  by  octagonal  slabs  to  match.  This  lantern 
being  unfinished,  one  cannot  perfectly  imagine  its  general  effect ;  but, 
jiidging  from  the  good  taste  evinced  by  the  architect,  Mr.  Strick- 
land, (an  Englishman,  I  understand,)  in  his  plan,  it  is  probable 
that  the  completion  of  this  building  will  be  worthy  of  its  com- 
mencement. Its  material  is  the  beautifully  coloured  grey  lime- 
stone of  Kentucky.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  making  acquaintance 
with  Mrs.  Polk,  widow  of  President  Polk,  whose  burial-place  and 
monument  are  in  the  garden  upon  one  side  of  her  residence.  It 
is  a  handsome  but  simple  erection,  bearing  an  inscription  worthy 
of  the  man  whose  life  and  death  it  records ;  and  I  sympathized 
with  feelings  which  do  not  shrink  from  the  sight  of  the  last  me- 
morials of  valued  friends  who  have  preceded  us.  I  had  not  time 
to  see  much  of  the  neighbourhood  of  Nashville,  but  I  met  a  few 
agreeable  people  there ;   and  could  have  made  a  pretty  sketch 


fil8 


NASHVILLE. 


from  the  Suspension  Bridge,  if  the  departure  of  the  mail  on  alter* 
nate  days  only  had  not  prevented  me  from  staying  a  few  hours 
longer.     In  haste, 

Your  affectionate 

A.  M.  M. 

Three  Forks,  Kentucky. 

May  18, 18W 


LETTER  XXVI. 


Mammotu  Catr,  ) 
May  14, 1855.     f 

My  dear  Friends, — 

The  Mammoth  Cave  is  not  the  wonder  I  expected.  Per- 
haps my  expectations  were  raised  too  high,  and  so,  as  is  some- 
times the  case,  I  do  not  fairly  appreciate  what  has  been  con- 
sidered secondary  only  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara;  but,  in  my 
opinion,  the  Stone  Mountain  of  Georgia  is  a  greater  marvel  of 
nature  than  the  caves  of  Kentucky. 

Underground  rivers  are  by  no  means  rare  :  they  are  very  nu- 
merous in  Florida;  and  the  Mammoth  Cave  is  evidently  the 
deserted  bed  of  ancient  streams.  In  some  places  it  resembles 
gigantic  drains,  of  which  one  of  the  most  curious  features  is  the 
regular,  smooth,  plastered-looking  roof  and  sides.  I  have  seen  no 
elegant  stalactite  pillars  like  those  of  the  Adelberg  Cave  in 
Carniola.  The  caverns  here  are  heavy-looking,  dark  and  dismal; 
but  there  are  some  gigantic  pits  and  domes,  frightful  from  their 
height  and  depth.  The  stalactite  altar,  in  what  is  called  the 
Gothic  Chapel,  and  a  comfortable  arm-cLair  of  the  same  material, 
were  the  most  interesting  things  I  saw.  There  are  casts  of  fossils 
on  the  walls  of  what  is  here  called  oolitic  rock,  a  fine  emericite 
in  one  place.  I  see  also  at  the  hotel  fossil  wood  of  the  coal  for- 
mations, which  were  procured  about  seven  miles  off,  but  not  from 
any  of  the  Caves.  On  the  whole,  I  was  more  interested  by  plants 
it  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  than  by  our  five  miles'  walk  within ; 


820 


TREATMEWT  OF  TRAVELLERi. 


¥ 


!i. 


if 


and  to-morrow  I  shall  probably  ramble  above  ground,  instead  of 
beneath  it.  I  found  Podophyllum  peltatum  in  flower  for  the  first 
time ;  a  singularly  pretty,  one-flowering,  bluish-grey  Aster,*  and 
other  novelties. 

Several  people  came  with  us  in  a  stage-coach  from  Three 
Forks,  and  it  is  to  convey  us  back  to-morrow  afternoon,  in  time 
to  rest  before  the  mail  takes  us  on. 

Three  Forks,  or  *  Bolls'  (as  I  find  they  call  this  place,  to 
which  we  returned  this  afternoon,  May  14th).  Instead  of  the 
coach  taking  us  on,  as  promised  at  Nashville  (where  they  per- 
suaded me  to  pay  for  the  whole  distance  to  Louisville),  it  arrived 
here  loaded,  and  wo  are  detained  till  passengers  may  happen  to  be 
scarce.  This  is  the  kind  of  treatment  travellers  arc  subjected  to. 
It  is  impossible  to  place  any  dependence  upon  the  assurances  of 
agents ;  when  they  have  got  your  money,  they  will,  rrithout  com- 
punction, leave  you  in  the  lurch.  The  lady  and  gentleman  who 
have  taken  their  passage  to  England  for  the  28rd  are  in  the  same 
predicament,  and  are  of  course  still  more  inconvenienced.  In- 
stead of  underground  investigations  this  morning,  I  botanized  in 
the  Avoods  above  the  Mammoth  Cave,  and  found  many  interesting 
plants,  particularly  a  pretty  dwarf  Iris,  quite  new  to  me ;  Plm- 
oelia  fimbriata,  with  ivy-shaped  leaves,  and  fine  specimens  of 
Botrychium  Yirginicum,  and  other  ferns  in  fruit.  I  walked  as 
far  as  Green  River,  and  made  a  sketch  there  :  it  is  well  named, 
for  the  waters  look  solidly  green.  This  river  falls  into  the  Ohio, 
and  by  going  down  it,  and  then  up  the  Cumberland,  there  is  a 
water  communication  with  Nashville ;  but  now  the  rivers  are  so 
low  this  is  not  practicable.  All  the  party,  excepting  myself,  en- 
tered  tho  Cave  this  morning  at  eight  o'clock,  and  did  not  emerge 
again  till  six  in  the  afternoon.  They  admired  some  of  the  cav- 
erns much  more  than  those  we  saw  yesterday,  and  tell  me  that 
the  imitations  of  flowers  and  forms  of  various  kinds  in  the  snowy 
gypsum  are  very  beautiful ;  but  the  expedition  was  tedious  and 

*  I  suppose  this  to  be  '  Aster  grandiflorus,'  though  Darby's  Sotany  sayi 
that  plant  flowers  in  October,  and  that  it  is  two  or  three  feet,  this  is  not  one 
'«ot,  h^^b. 


MOCKINO-BIRDh. 


821 


fatiguing,  and  I  do  nr  t  repent  my  decision  against  it.  No  eyeless 
fish  were  to  be  procured — the  water  was  too  low ;  though  they 
are  the  great  curiosity  of  the  place.  The  preserved  specimens  I 
have  seen  have  rudiments  or  marks  where  eyes  should  be,  and  I 
suppose  that  the  organ  has  perished  in  process  of  time,  from  want 
of  use,  many  generations  one  after  another  having  existed  and 
died  in  the  dark.  I  have  seen  two  species,  a  kind  of  perch  and  a 
crayfish.*  Stephen,  the  guide  who  accompanied  us,  is  a  mulatto 
of  great  intelligence :  he  is  at  present  a  slave,  but  is  to  have  his 
freedom  next  year,  and  then  goes  to  Liberia  with  his  wife  and 
family  (he  would  not  wish  to  be  free  in  this  country) ;  and  it  is 
to  be  feared  that  when  beyond  control,  a  certain  propensity  for 
strong  waters  will  be  his  destruction.  His  appearance  is  that  of 
a  good-looking  Spaniard ;  he  is  considered  much  the  best  guide, 
and  he  has  not  only  acquired  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  locality 
of  the  Cave,  but  also  some  degree  of  scientific  acquaintance  with 
its  geological  and  chemical  productions :  besides  which,  he  seems 
to  have  read  and  studied  the  history  of  other  places  of  the  same 
nature,  as  far  as  he  has  been  able  to  procure  books. 

I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  nearly  all  the  district  was  tun- 
neled or  undermined  by  water,  which  the  lapse  of  ages  has  dried 
up,  or  drained  oflF  by  numerous  rivers.  The  caverns  I  saw  in 
Cuba  were  probably  owing  to  rather  difierent  circumstances,  in 
which  volcanic  action  played  a  larger  part.  The  Cueva  del  Can- 
dela  was  an  extensive  opening  above  the  plain  in  the  side  of  a 
hill,  whereas  these  Kentucky  Caves  are  all  below  the  surround- 
ing country. 

Six  o'clock,  May  15. — I  have  been  awakened  by  the  singing 
of  the  mocking-birds  in  a  small  orchard  close  to  the  English- 
looking  garden  here  :  there  is  a  tame  one  in  a  cage  downstairs, 
who  sings  unceasingly,  and  I  suppose  he  attracts  all  the  birds  of 
the  neighbourhood:  at  night  their  song  resembles  our  nightin- 
gale ;  this  morning  it  is  exactly  like  that  of  canaries.  Although 
my  wanderinsrs  in  tho  woods  yesterday  lasted  some  hours,  I  did 


*  I  have  now  got  the  latter. 


14* 


822 


EVENTUALITIES. 


Pi 


not  feci  apprehensive  of  snakes :  one  of  the  guides  told  me  before 
I  set  out,  that  although  there  are  rattlesnakes,  and  some  other 
kinds  occasionally  hero,  yet,  in  his  opinion,  the  popular  fear  of 
them  is  much  greater  than  necessary :  that  they  always  get  out 
of  your  way  if  possible,  and  ho  has  himself  often  walked  over 
them,  without  danger  ;  they  never  wound  unless  driven  to  it  in 
self-defence.  There  arc  many  pigs,  too,  in  the  woods  above  the 
Mammoth  Cave,  and  they  are  perfect  snake  scavengers,  eating  up 
all  they  can  rout  out  or  fall  in  with.  I  saw  the  tail  of  something 
darting  into  a  hole,  but  could  not  be  sure  whether  it  was  snake 
or  lizard ;  besides  this,  I  caught  sight  of  no  animal  but  a  frog 
with  largo  eyes.  After  I  had  been  put  five  hours,  one  of  the 
negroes  came  to  look  after  me,  and  I  was  glad  to  make  over  my 
flower-press  for  him  to  carry  back ;  I  liad  a  sketch-book,  a  bam- 
boo stick,  and  a  tin  case  (none  of  the  smallest) ;  and  these  often 
obliged  me  to  go  twice  over  the  same  ground,  because  I  could  not 
carry  them  all  at  once ;  and  yet  it  was  a  much  greater  enjoyment 
to  be  without  an  attendant  who  would  have  hurried  me,  and  look 
bored,  if  ho  did  not  express  himself  so.  The  negroes,  too,  watch 
your  every  motion  with  such  eager  curiosity,  and  will  hardly  let 
you  stir  without  their  help.  My  friend  was  very  loth  to  go ;  he 
tried  to  persuade  me  that  it  might  rain,  or  blow  some  of  the  trees 
down  upon  me ;  but  I  said  I  was  not  afraid,  and  that  if  it  rained 
very  hard,  he  might  bring  out  an  umbrella  to  a  spring  near,  to 
which  I  meant  to  find  my  way ;  so  at  last  he  left  me  to  my  own 
inventions,  and  no  difiiculties  occurred.  I  returned  to  the  hotel 
by  half-past  three  o'clock.  Immediately  after  the  Cave  hunters 
came  back,  we  were  summoned  to  get  into  the  coach ;  for  the  road 
being  bad,  we  had  to  walk  up  and  down  some  of  the  hills,  and  to 
arrive  again  at  our  starting-place  before  dusk.  After  tea  there, 
we  went  to  rest,  preparatory  to  our  expected  night  journey,  and 
we  were  packed  and  ready,  when  we  were  told  it  was  impossible 
we  could  be  taken  on ;  so  we  were  obliged  to  reconcile  ourselves 
to  twenty-four  hours'  pause.  Next  morning,  I  was  agreeably  sur- 
prised to  find  my  Anglo-American  friend,  Miss  G had  ar- 
rived with  a  party  to  proceed  to  the  Cave,  so  that  my  detention 


A   NEGRO  BEAUTT. 


823 


enabled  us  to  meet.  My  Hortus  Siccus  also  will  benefit  much  by 
the  time  I  was  able  to  bestow  upon  it,  and  a  walk  in  the  forest 
surrounding  this  place  was  the  means  of  my  adding  a  singular 
fern  to  my  collection ;  excepting  that  fern,  I  did  not  find  much 
that  I  had  not  already  put  into  my  press  at  the  Mammoth  Cave ; 
a  brilliant  orange  Coreopsis,  probably  one  of  those  we  already 
have  in  our  gardens,  is  common  in  these  woods,  which  are  sprin- 
kled all  about  with  rocks,  but  none  of  large  dimensions. 

Louisville,  May,  17. — At  ten  o'clock  the  night  before  last  we 
got  into  a  crammed  coach  at  Throe  Forks ;  nine  inside,  two  of 
whom  were  negro  women ;  also  a  black  baby- — and  such  a  fright- 
ful specimen  of  black  nature  as  one  of  these  slave  women  was ! — 
her  mouth  just  like  a  catfish ;  and  then  so  sulky  mannered  and 
unaccommodating;  she  took  her  own  share  of  the  room,  and 
added  to  it  as  much  as  she  could  possibly  steal  from  her  neigh- 
bours. Talk  of  white  freedom  1  why  I  never  saw  women  of  the 
white  classes  in  England  as  independent  and  assuming  in  manner 
as  some  of  these  darkies.  I  can  imagine  what  they  must  be  in 
the  West  Indies,  since  wc  have  given  them  free  scope  there  ! 

Yesterday  afternoon  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  a  great 
boon  to  this  parched  country,  though  it  did  not  make  our  tedious 
journey  more  pleasant ;  the  way  to  Louisville  was  through  open 
woods  and  fields  and  glades,  which  would  have  been  English  in 
character,  if  the  everlasting  and  ugly  snake  fences  had  not  kept 
us  constantly  in  mind  of  America.  We  ferried  over  the  Salt  Ri- 
ver just  at  its  junction  with  the  Ohio,  having  before  travelled 
along  one  of  its  beautiful  shores,  and  then  we  passed  through 
Elizabethville,  and  Nolinn's  Creek  ;  so  called  from  a  hunter  of  the 
noiiie  of  Linn.  In  the  early  times  of  the  settlement  his  party 
1:  aving  lost  their  companion  in  the  forests,  separated  to  seek  him, 
and  having  given  their  rendezvous  at  this  spot,  each  man  as  they 
came  in  called  out  No  Linn ;  this  was  the  origin  of  the  name. 
Louisville  ia  a  large  city  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio ;  it  has  no  very 
attractivG  features,  and  as  we  must  proceed  by  rail  to  Cincinnati 
at  eight  o'clock  this  morning,  I  shall  not  have  time  to  see  much 
here.     There  is  a  heavy  ugly  Court-house,  in  an  unfinished  dila- 


II 


' 


'i 


i 


824 


onroiNKATL 


pidated-looking  state,  and  the  streets  are  ill-paved ;  I  understand 
the  population  mounts  up  to  fifty  thousand,  and  this  hotel  was  so 
crowded,  that  if  it  had  not  been  for  my  accommodating  English 
friends  who  gave  up  a  room  they  had  engaged,  we  should  have 
been  obliged  to  seek  beds  elsewhere. 

Cincinnati,  May  17. — We  crossed  the  Ohio  River  this  morn- 
ing by  a  ferry-boat  at  eight  o'clock,  to  start  from  the  railway 
station,  which  has  the  most  roomy  and  comfortable  cars  I  have  yet 
met  with  in  America.  We  reached  this  place,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  from  Louisville,  by  thiee  o'clock,  passing  by  a  series 
of  picturesque  low-woodod  hills,  which  are  called  the  Knobs  of  Ohio. 
President  Harrison's  tomb  is  on  one  of  these  elevations,  near  a 
pretty  town  named  Aurora.  Kentucky  is  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river.  We  are  now  in  Ohio,  which  bears  the  appellation  of 
the  Buckeye  State.  Nearly  every  State  and  each  chief  city  has 
what  may  be  called  a  local  designation,  and  some  of  these  are 
extremely  appropriate :  I  will  give  you  a  list  of  those  I  have 
ascertained : — 


II     l! 


New  York,  Empire  State 
Massachusetts,  Bay  Siale 
Philadelphia,  Key  State 
Kentucky,  Coracracker  State 
Indiana,  *  Hoosier'*  State 
Illinois,  Sucker  State  . 
Virginia,  Old  Dominion 
South  Carolina,  Palmetto  State 
Missouri,  Wolverine  State 
California,  Gold  State 
Georgia,  Rice  State    . 
Louisiana,  French  State 
Florida,  Shell  State      . 


Empire  City. 
Bay  City. 
Quaker  City. 
Pittsburg,  Smoky  Ci^. 
Cleveland,  Forest  City. 
Wheeling,  Bridge  City. 
Cincinnati,  Queen  City. 
Saint  Louis,  Mound  City. 
Louisville,  Falls  City. 
Galena,  Garden  City. 
Memphis,  Bluff  City. 
New  Orleans,  Crescent  City. 
Indianapolis,  Railroad  City. 


May  18. — Soon  after  reaching  Cincinnati  yesterday  afternoon, 
I  set  off  in  the  hope  of  seeing  Mr.  Longworth'a  Cacti  ,•  but,  unfor 
tunately,  the  green-house,  with  everything  in  it,  was  destroyed  by 

*  Mftdnme  Pfeiffer   mistook   Governor  Wright,  when   she   gnvo,  from  his 
au  Jiority,   another  derivatiou  for  the  woxd  '  Hoosier.'    It  originated  in  a 


A   OVNERIC   TEBM. 


825 


fire,  aboat  three  years  ago ;  and  it  is  an  exemplification  of  Trans* 
atlantic  indifference  to  such  things,  that  a  loss  of  the  finest  col- 
lection  of  Cacti  in  the  United  States,  and  perhaps  in  the  world, 
does  not  appear  to  have  been  known  except  to  those  immediately 
concerned.  I  found  nothing  very  new  in  the  glass  houses  be- 
longing to  Mr.  Longworth ;  but  in  one  of  them  the  Victoria  Begia 
was  in  flower;  and  there  is  an  intelligent  young  Scotchman  as 
gardener.  Mr.  Longworth's  residence,  though  in  the  town,  is 
large ;  and  within  the  grounds,  on  either  side,  he  has  erected 
other  handsome  houses,  for  two  sons-in-law.  Mr.  Longworth  was 
away  from  home,  but  Mr.  Anderson,  who  married  one  of  his  daugh- 
ters, was  so  obliging  as  to  show  me  the  first  works  of  Power — one  a 
charming  ideal  bust,  entitled  Genevra,  and  the  other  a  bust  of 
his  patron,  considered  very  good ;  it  reminded  me  of  Seneca. 

The  agriculturists  were,  blessed  by  much  rain  yesterday.  We 
are  now  come  far  enough  north  to  feel  a  change  of  climate ;  and 
an  advantage  to  me  will  be  the  getting  away  from  a  species  of  tick, 
which  was  the  torment  of  my  Southern  walks.  The  insect  is  as 
large  as  that,  which  in  England  is  rarely  named  to  ears  polite, 
though  here  it  is  the  usual  designation  of  every  creeping  thing. 
This  tick  is  so  insidious  in  its  a;]proaches,  that  you  are  not  made 
sensible  of  having  one  upon  you  till  it  has  fastened  itself  tightly  into 
your  skin.  After  botanizing  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Mam- 
moth Cave,  I  felt  tormented  during  our  night  journey  to  Louis- 
ville ;  and  upon  arriving  there,  R extracted  twenty-five  of 

the  little  wretches ;  they  are  very  tenacious  of  life ;  and,  if  the 
head  is  left  behind,  greater  irritation  ensues ;  but  the  suffering 
to  me  has  not  been  greater  than  that  caused  by  the  sting  of  a 
mosquito.  These  and  cactus  spines  are  two  great  hindrances  to 
botanical  researches  in  the  Southern  States. 

Cincinnati  is  handsomer  and  more  attractive  than  Louisville, 
and  worthy  of  its  distinctive  name,  '  Queen  City.'  Geologically, 
the  formations  which  surround  it  are  singular.    I  believe  they 


settler's  exclaiming   '  Huzza,'  upon  gaiuing  the  rictory  over  a  marauding 
wrty  i'rom  a  neighbouring  State. 


825 


FUTURE   OP   CINCINNATI. 


[i 


!!  m 


M 


-.5  4 


1\M 


wi- 


m 


m 


p. 


it;. 


belong  to  the  Devonian  group,  or  rather  the  Lower  Silurian; 
but  there  is  limestone  resembling  in  colour  and  appearance 
(though  not  in  fossils)  what  is  called  '  forest  marble'  in  England ; 
it  lies  in  flat  strata  about  a  foot,  or  half  a  foot  in  thickness,  alter* 
nating  with  clay;  and,  in  some  places,  I  observed  both  indurated 
together  into  a  striped  rock,  dark  and  light  grey.  I  have  got  a 
few  specimens,  with  fossils,  Trilobites,  Orthises,  &c. ;  and  very 
largo  Trilobites  are  found  here. 

Mr.  Mitchell,  the  astronomer,  took  me  up  to  his  Observatory, 
situated  upon  a  commanding  elevation  overlooking  the  town  and 
winding  Ohio.  This  will  one  day  be  a  gigantic  city ;  already  her 
population  amounts  to  two  hundred  thousand.  The  emporium 
of  the  Western  States,  Cincinnati  is  both  commercirl  and  manu- 
facturing. Her  citizens  have  built,  and  are  building,  palaces; 
and,  if  the  first  settlers  could  but  have  imagined  the  future  of 
the  great  capital  they  were  founding,  instead  of  rooting  up  and 
burning  down  the  trees  on  the  numerous  heights,  and  then  par- 
titioning tbcm  out  in  small  lots  for  building,  they  would  have 
preserved  them,  or  some  of  them,  in  their  forest  attire,  in  public 
parks  and  gardens  for  their  city,  which,  by  this  time,  must  have 
been  the  Queen  of  the  States,  in  beauty  of  scenery  as  well  as 
in  situation.  Professor  Mitchell  tried  to  explain  his  wonderful 
astronomical  instruments  to  my  unmechanical  comprehension.  I 
can  only  see  that  he  nas  made  great  discoveries.  By  means  of  a 
galvanio  battery,  he  produces  an  electric  spark  each  second,  in 
the  internr  of  a  clock,  by  which  he  works  his  whole  observing 
machinery  above.  Through  this  agent  he  has  superseded  the  old 
transit-glauH ;  and  the  exact  situation  of  stars  is  instantaneously 
jotted  down  by  a  mere  finger-touch  from  the  observer,  upon  a 
connecting  rod.  I  do  not  know  whether  this  is  a  clear  explana- 
tion, for  though  I  understand  the  commencement  and  conclusion 
of  tho  operation,  I  have  n(»t  suflicient  knowledge  to  trace  it 
through  all  its  mysterious  do  ngs.  The  Professor  himself  drove 
me  up  and  down  some  of  thr  terrific  hills  of  this  precipice  town ; 
he  and  his  pretty  little  h',rses  and  light  high-wheeled  earriago 
Boemcd  so  used  to  the  business,  that  I  did  not  insist  u^  o  jump- 


DR.    JOHNSON   ON   SLAVERY. 


827 


ing  out,  otherwise  I  should  have  been  very  unwilling  to  have 
been  driven  by  the  very  edge  of  descents  which  it  makes  me  now 
giddy  to  think  of.  A  mizzling  rain  forced  us  to  give  up  a  pro- 
posed drive  into  the  surrounding  country ;  and  I  was  obliged  to 
be  content  with  cursory  views  of  the  principal  streets;  after 
which  Mr.  Mitchell  took  me  to  his  house  to  drink  tea  and  spend 
the  evening  with  Mrs.  Mitchell  and  his  family. 

Saturday  J  Jtay  19. — This  afternoon  I  go  on  by  rail  to 
Indianapolis.  I  have  now  taken  leave  of  the  Southern  States, 
but  I  must  make  some  more  remarks  upon  the  Slavery  question. 
Louisville  and  Cincinnati  are  places  in  which,  I  believe,  Mrs. 
Stowe  once  resided ;  and  I  quote  an  opinion  she  advances  in  her 
last  work  which  proves  Iter  entire  ignorance  of  negro  constitution 
and  habits.  She  asserts  that  Canada  is  the  best  locality  *■  to  de- 
velope  the  energies  of  the  black  race.'  Before  saying  this,  it 
would  have  been  well  if  she  had  studied  the  condition  of  the  free 
negroes  in  Canada.  The  very  climate  itself  is  utterly  unsuited 
to  them.  Mrs.  Stowe  quotes,  as  mistaken  and  absurd,  the  sensible 
remarks  in  Boswell's  Life  of  Johnson  respecting  negro  slavery, 
which  I  must  re-quote  as  wise  and  true :  '  To  abolish  a  status 
which  in  all  ages  God  has  sanctioned  and  man  has  continued, 
would  not  only  be  robbing  a  numerous  class  of  our  fellow-sub- 
jects, but  it  would  be  extreme  cruelty  to  the  African  savages,  a 
portion  of  whom  it  saves  from  worse  bondage  in  their  own  coun- 
try, and  introduces  into  a  much  happier  state  of  life ;  especially 
when  their  passage  to  the  West  Indies  and  their  treatment  there 
is  humanely  regulated.  To  abolish  the  trade  would  be  to  shut 
the  gates  of  mercy  on  mankind.'  And  I  must  add  this :  the 
opinions  I  have  heard  from  intelligent  slaves  coincide  with  those 
here  quoted.  Because  some  slave-manacles  were  seen  by  Clark- 
son  in  a  Liverpool  shop,  he  decided  at  once  upon  the  inhumanity 
of  slavery — so  says  Mrs.  Stowe.  Tyrannical  men  and  women  in 
Great  Britain  have  actually  starved  apprentices  to  death — is 
apprenticeship  therefore  murder  ?  I  trust  no  Englishwoman  can 
be  found  willing  to  bring  such  an  accusation  against  her  people. 
Let  us  ir'agine  two  brothers  in  this  courtry  engaged  in  trade 


liiSl 


ml 


S28 


8UKDAT-SCH00L   TEACBINO. 


'!  ., 


one  buys  a  plantation,  with  two  hundred  negroes,  to  raise  cotton^ 
on  the  Mississippi — the  other  sets  up  a  mill  to  spin  cotton,  at 
Cincinnati.  Trade  is  bad  with  the  elder :  he  must  raise  or  buy 
corn  and  clothes  to  feed  and  clothe  his  labourers.  Trade  is 
tight  with  the  other:  he  dismisses  his  work-people,  who  may 
starve  or  perish,  and  there  is  no  law  which  can  make  him  respon- 
sible for  their  sufferings.  I  will  conclude  this  subject  with  one 
more  anecdote,  for  the  truth  of  which  I  can  vouch.  A  Southern 
lady  and  gentleman  brought  a  mulatto  slave  to  Cincinnati,  who 
there  fell  in  with  some  abolitionists,  and  was  imbued  with  a  feel- 
ing of  discontent.  Her  master  and  mistress  observing  this,  pro- 
ceeded to  New  York,  where  they  told  the  girl  that  they  did  not 
wish  to  retain  a  servant  against  her  will,  and  giving  her  twenty 
dollars,  they  added,  '  Take  this  money  and  your  freedom.'  The 
girl  took  it,  and  west  out.  She  entered  a  theatre,  and  was  toU 
'  she  must  go  to  the  entrance  for  coloured  people.'  In  a  church 
she  is  ordered  to  sit  with  the  blacks.  Trying  for  a  place  in  an 
omnibus,  the  driver  says  it  is  no  place  for  her.  She  hurried 
back  to  her  mistress  to  return  the  money,  and  entreated  she 
might  be  tr.^en  or  sent  back  to  that  South  '  where  black  people 
are  free.' 

IndianapoliSy  May  19. — We  reached  Indianapolis  soon  after 
the  evening  closed  in.  As  hours  are  early  in  this  part  of  the 
world,  I  determined  to  go  to  an  hotel  for  the  night,  so  as  not 
to  intrude  on  my  friends  at  an  inconvenient  time.  This  was 
acquiesced  in  by  Governor  Wright,  who  visited  me  soon  after  my 
arrival. 

May  20. — The  Governor  came  early,  and  took  me  to  his 
house.  At  half-past  ten  o'clock  we  went  to  the  Episcopal  church, 
where  the  duty  was  admirably  done  by  %  Mr.  Talbot,  originally 
from  Kentucky,  who  preached  a  sermon,  good  in  matter  as  in 
manner.  Dinner  was  at  one  o'clock,  and  at  two  I  accompanied 
the  Governor  to  visit  two  large  Sunday-schools,  belonging  to  dif- 
ferent denominations.  There  are  about  fifteen  in  this  town. 
They  have  each  a  superintendent ;  and  young  men  and  women  of 
Jie  various  churches  in  the  plaoe  give  them  assistance.     In  Eng* 


AN   EXPECTANT   MILLENARUN. 


829 


land  we  might  take  example  by  the  wisdom  here  which  limits 
Sandaj-school  attendance  to  one  hour,  and  leaves  the  place  and 
period  of  Divine  worship  to  be  regulated  by  the  parents.  If  the 
teaching  at  school  is  not  such  as  to  induce  the  children  to  go 
willingly  to  church,  a  forced  going  will  not  benefit  their  religious 
feelings ;  and  too  often  the  fatigued,  bored  appearance  of  Sab* 
bath-school  children  in  our  churches,  is  a  sad  commentary  upon 
the  want  of  judgment  evinced  by  the  British  public  in  this  mat- 
ter. The  Sunday  is  kept-  at  Indianapolis  with  Presbyterian 
strictness.  No  trains  start,  letters  do  not  go,  nor  are  they  re- 
ceived, BO  that  a  father,  mother,  husband,  or  wife  may  be  in  ex- 
tremity, r.nd  have  no  means  of  communicating  their  farewells  or 
last  wishes  if  Sunday  intervenes.  Surely  this  is  making  man 
subordinate  to  the  Sabbath — not  the  Sabbath  to  man.  I  have 
been  amused  at  a  story  told  me  of  an  inhabitant  of  this  place. 
The  Millenarian  doctrine  has  been  rife  here ;  all  through  America 
fanatics  have  lately  spread  an  idea  that  sublunary  matters  were 
to  close  yesterday,  May  19.  A  man  not  usually  inclined  to  in- 
temperate habits,  called  at  a  store  as  the  day  waned,  and  requested 
a  mug  of  porter  to  support  his  spirits  through  the  expected  catas- 
trophe. Time  wore  on — still  the  elements  looked  calm.  •  It 
wont  be  over  yet  awhile ;  I  must  have  another  glass.  'Tis  very 
depressing  to  have  to  wait  so  long ;  give  me  some  drink.'  This 
continued  till  the  poor  frightened  soul  became  dead  drunk ;  and 
he  was  much  surprised  next  morning  to  find  the  world  going  on 
much  as  usual — with  the  exception  of  his  aching  head. 

May  21. — Governor  Wright  invited  me  to  accompany  him  in 
a  morning  walk  at  sunrise — ^four  o'clock.  I  had  some  letters  to 
write  previously,  but  by  five  we  perambulated  parts  of  the  town, 
which  is  peculiarly  laid  out ;  the  Court,  or  rather  Government- 
bouse  being  in  the  centre  (and  it  is  said  also  the  centre  of  the 
Union ;  but  that  can  only  be  a  temporary  centre,  for  this  place 
lies  eastward  of  the  middle  of  the  continent) ;  and  all  the  streets 
converging  towards  it. 

I  occupied  this  morning  in  arranging  my  dried  specimens  of 
plants,  which  occasionally  re(\uire  attention.    We  dined  at  one 


830 


DEMOCRACY    AXD    DESPOTISM. 


o'clock,  and  Mrs.  Wright,  at  present  au  invalid,  was  sufficiently 
recovered  to  join  us  at  table.  After  dinner  I  was  happy  to  see 
Judge  Maclean,  whom  I  knew  at  Washington ;  he  is  come  to  hold 
a  court ;  and  Governor  Powell,  of  Kentucky,  is  also  expected  to- 
morrow. The  Governor  took  Mr.  Maclean  and  mo  a  drive  to  see 
the  Asylums  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  for  the  Blind  of  this 
State.  They  are  both  fine  institutions,  paid  for  by  the  people 
through  special  taxes,  imposed  for  the  purpose,  and  paid  ungrudg- 
ingly. They  have  sufficient  ground  attached  for  out-of-door  oc- 
cupations and  exercise.  The  deaf  and  dumb  make  shoes  and 
bonnets,  farm,  &c.,  so  as  to  acquire  a  knowledge  which  enables 
them  to  gain  their  future  livelihood  :  and  the  girls  are  taught  to 
be  sempstresses,  washerwomen,  cooks,  &c.  Such  charities  should 
always  be  situated  in  the  country ;  town  life  cuts  off  the  most 
necessary  and  advantageous  means  of  training  the  inmates  to 
healthful  and  useful  pursuits. 

From  the  cupola  of  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind  the  view  is  wide. 
These  extensive  plains  of  the  West  extend  one  thousand  miles  in 
the  direction  of  Canada,  and  as  far  towards  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
There  is  one  height  or  bluff  about  fifteen  miles  off,  which  I  must 
go  and  look  at.  Indiana  produces  freestone,  coal,  and  iron.  The 
Wabash  about  sixty  miles  from  hence,  is  the  most  considerable 
river.  Before  we  left  the  asylum,  some  of  the  blind  pupils  sang 
quartettes  and  duets,  accompanied  by  one  of  their  number  on  the 
piano.     They  sang  in  tune  and  with  good  taste. 

I  have  heard  much  of  Democracy  and  Equality  since  I  camo 
to  the  United  States,  and  I  have  seen  more  evidences  of  Aristoc- 
facy  and  Despotism  than  it  has  before  been  my  fortune  to  meet 
with.  The  *  Know-nothings,'  and  the  '  Abolitionists,'  and  the 
'  Mormonites '  are,  in  my  opinion,  consequent  upon  the  mammonitc, 
extravagant  pretensions  and  habits  which  are  really  fashionable 
among  Pseudo-Republicans.  Two  hundred  thousand  starving 
Irish  have  come  to  this  couitry,  and  in  their  ignorance  they  as- 
sume the  airs  of  that  equality  which  they  have  been  induced  to 
believe  is  ve-jdly  belonging  to  American  society.  They  endeavour 
to  reduce  to  practice  the  sentiment  so  popular  here — but  no— that 


GOVERNOR   WRIGHT. 


881 


will  never  do.  Ladies  don't  like  their  helps  to  say  they  *  choose 
to  sit  in  the  parlour,  or  they  won't  help  them  at  all,  for  equality 
is  th'e  rule  here.'  Mrs.  So-and-so  of  the  '  Codfish  '  Aristocracy 
doesn't  like  to  have  Lady  Anything  to  take  precedence  of  her ; 
hut  Betty  chopsiug  to  play  at  equality  is  quite  another  thing  ^ 
Now  at  Indianapolis  I  have  found  something  like  consistency,  for 
the  first  time  since  I  came  this  side  the  Atlantic.  I  do  not  as- 
sert there  is  equality,  for  the  simple  reason  that  it  is  not  in 
nature ;  and  (as  Lord  Tavistock  once  so  well  said),  '  the  love  of 
liberty  is  virtue,  but  the  love  of  equality  is  pride ;'  but  here,  the 
Governor  of  the  State  is  a  man  of  sinall  income ;  his  salary  is  only 
fifteen  hundred  dollars :  he  has  really  put  aside  money-making, 
and  his  son,  an  amiable  young  man,  instead  of  wasting  his  time  in 
rioting  and  drunkenness  (which,  alas  !  is  too  much  the  case  with 
tiie  sons  of  the  'Aristocracy  '  in  the  United  States),  keeps  a  store 
to  make  his  own  fortune,  and,  as  he  nobly  said  yesterday,  to  pro- 
vide for  that  father  who  has  disdained  to  sacrifice  his  country  to 
himself.  Governor  Wright  did  not  think  it  a  degradation  to 
carry  a  basket  when  I  accompanied  him  to  the  market  this  morning, 
and  his  whole  demeanour  is  that  of  a  consistent  Republican.  I 
do  not  care  what  a  man's  political  creed  may  be  (though  T  much 
prefer  the  monarchical  principles  of  old  England),  but  I  do  admire 
consistency ;  and  I  consider  the  '  Know-nothing '  movement  as  a 
consequence  of  uncertain  principles. 

May  22. — This  day  Governor  Powell  of  Kentucky  came  on  a 
visit  here.  He  was  in  Canada  two  years  since,  and  he  spoke  with 
admiration  of  Lord  Elgin,  and  of  his  manner  of  conducting  the 
afiiairs  of  that  Colony.  The  heat  has  suddenly  become  intense ; 
to  my  feelings  as  hot  as  any  day  we  had  in  Cuba.  At  last  I  con- 
clude that  winter  has  really  given  up  our  company,  after  returning 
to  it  so  frequently,  that  I  feel  as  if  I  had  passed  three  wintera  and 
three  summers  in  America. 

May  23. — I  went  at  five  o'clock  this  morning  to  the  Eastern 
market-place,  where  I  first  saw  squirrels  sold  like  rabbits  for  the 
table  ready  skinned.  When  dressed,  they  are  exactly  like  young 
chickens.     I  believe  it  is  the  grey  squirrel.     This  evening  the 


fi  ii'fl 


882 


A   OOVERKOR^S   LETEB. 


idl'IT 


*i  -,1 


Governor  had  what  is  now  in  the  States  universally  called  a  lev^e 
after  the  same  fashion  as  the  President's  receptions.  Governors 
of  individual  States  occasionally  open  their  doors  to  all  the  citi- 
zens who  choose  to  attend,  and  it  is  considered  a  compliment  to 
stranger  guests  like  the  Governor  of  Kentucky  and  myself,  that 
the  attendance  should  be  good ;  so  the  rooms  here  were  filled 
The  Governor  and  his  lady  do  not  receive  their  visitors,  but  we  all 
went  into  the  room  after  they  had  assembled.  No  refreshments 
are  expected  on  these  occasions,  but  every  one  shakes  hands  upon 
being  introduced.  The  assemblage  was  very  respectable  and 
orderly;  it  concluded  about  eleven  o'clock,  having  begun  at 
nine. 

May  24. — I  went  to  see  a  Devonshire  man  and  his  wife,  who 
have  a  vineyard  :  they  have  been  settled  here  twenty  ;^ears,  and 
are  natives  of  Dartmouth ;  they  look  back  to  the  old  country  with 
regret,  and  think  they  might  have  done  as  well  there  as  here ; 
though  they  have  a  cottage  with  an  acre  of  ground  their  own 
property,  and  a  married  son  and  daughter  doing  well,  but  poor 
people.     Their  youngest  boy  is  an  inmate  of  the  Indiana  Lunatic 

Asylum.     Mrs.  N was  brought  up  in  the  family  of  the  lady 

who  nursed  the  Duchess  of  Gloucester,  and  remembers  helping  to 
make  a  cradle  for  the  Princess  Amelia.  She  was  much  delighted 
to  find  that  I  knew  Miss  A  We  spoke  much  of  England ;  I 

told  her  she  was  now  adopted  by  this  country,  and  that  with  her 
family  here,  it  was  wrong  to  hanker  so  much  after  that  of  her 
birth. 

Mr.  N buries  his  vines  in  the  ground,  as  soon  as  the  wood 

has  hardened,  during  the  cold  months  of  the  year.  I  wonder 
whether  this  plan  would  make  the  vine  more  prolific  in  the  open 
air  with  us. 

Mrs.  Wright  gave  an  evening  party  of  invited  acquaintances ; 
a  great  many  agreeable  people  from  this  and  the  adjoining  State. 
One  lady  sang  some  of  Moore's  Melodies  very  sweetly ;  but,  as 
yet,  music  is  not  much  cultivated  in  America ;  either  the  ladies  do 
not  devote  sufficient  attention  to  it,  or  there  are  not  good  masters. 
This  in  almost  the  first  time  I  have  heard  an  American  sing  with 


TBB  BLUFF8  OF  THE   WHTTB   RITKIt. 


88S 


taste  and  expression.     This  party  did  not  conclude  before  mid- 
night. 

I  "have  spoken  of  the  Stone  Mountain  to  gentlemen,  engineers, 
professors,  and  military  men ;  but  the  gigantic  precipice,  and  the 
curious  geological  facts  of  that  elevation  seem  quite  unknown  to 
any  of  thAn: ;  as  yet  they  do  not  appear  to  have  attracted  the 
notice  of  scientific  men.  I  imagine  that  the  tabular  masses  spread 
upon  the  rising  ground  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  beneath 
the  precipitous  wall,  must  be  the  debris  of  that  part  of  the  moun- 
tain which  fell  away  upon  the  upheavement  of  the  mass  in  an 
almost  fluid  state — at  least  this  is  the  idea  suggested  by  its  ap- 
pearance. I  hope  some  one  more  able  to  understand  it  than  I 
am,  will  visit  the  place,  and  decide  how  far  my  supposition  is 
probable. 

I  am  told  the  thermometer  stood  at  ninety-two  degrees  in  the 
shade  the  day  before  yesterday,  and  the  weather  continues  very 
hot,  but  there  is  now  rather  more  air.  Last  night  a  naval  gen- 
tleman told  me  that  part  of  an  iron  fastening  belonging  to  a  ship 
had  been  founrl  lialf  embedded  in  a  mass  of  iron,  ^^hich  had  been 
supposed  au  aerolite,  lying  on  a  prairie  in  this  country.  From 
this  fact  a  very  modern  origin  for  the  locality  is  deduced,  because 
it  is  concluded  that  a  mass  of  the  kind  in  question  must  originally 
have  been  left  by  an  iceberg.  I  mention  this  as  it  was  named  to 
me,  without  pretending  to  decide  upon  the  truth  of  the  matter. 

Thursday  Mrs.  Wright  gave  an  invited  reception,  with  a 
standing  supper.  All  went  off  well,  and  I  saw  the  principal  peo- 
ple of  Indianapolis.  Next  morning  I  drove  with  a  young  lady  to 
see  what  are  called  the  Bluffs  of  the  White  River,  sixteen  miles, 
distance.  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  the  road  there  was  by  no 
means  what  we  should  call  a.  plain,  it  was  rather  a  series  of  continu- 
ed lov-  elevations,  and  many  short  but  steep  hills  mark  the  road. 
It  passes  through  a  pretty  country,  bordered  by  farms,  and  watered 
by  small  streams,  making  their  way  to  the  White  River,  which 
attended  our  drive  within  a  short  distance.  *  The  Bluff'  proved 
to  be  a  rather  higher  hill  than  others,  overlooking  the  river,  and 
thickly  timbered,  but  without  a  rook  of  any  kind.     I  found  the 


11 


iii 


334 


ENGLISH   AmSTOORACT. 


•.'  i 


I '  ■, 


large  leaved  blood-wort,  the  may  apple,  and  a  pretty  red  columbine, 
growing  plentifully  in  soil  formed  by  the  dead  leaves  of  a  thousand 
autumns.  The  inmates  of  a  pretty  farm  near  at  hand  gave  us  hos- 
pitality and  a  share  of  their  dinner,  while  our  coachman  acted  as 
guide,  and  entered  into  my  botanical  researches  with  great  interest. 
We  mad**  our  way  over  the  hill  down  to  the  river  bank,  where  we 
saw  the  laborious  but  useless  works  for  the  formation  of  a  canal, 
entered  into  by  the  State  at  an  out  lay  of  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dollars  just  before  railways  were  put  into  action,  and  abandoned 
in  consequence.  The  small  town  of  Waverley  is  situated  a  mile 
beyond  the  hill  we  came  to  visit.  Our  drive  home  was  a  chilly 
one.  The  thermometer  has  again  descended  below  50°.  These 
sudden  changes  from  intense  heat  to  cold  are  much  greater  than 
those  we  have  in  England. 

Saturday  and  Sunday  were  very  cold,  with  slight  showers.  It 
is  supposed  much  rain  has  fallen  in  other  parts  of  the  State ;  a 
most  acceptable  conclusion  of  the  long  drought,  which  has  excited 
much  alarm  for  the  fate  of  the  crops.  There  are  two  well  con- 
ducted newspapers  in  this  town,  but  they  fall  into  the  same  error 
(which  is  almost  general  in  the  press  through  the  States),  that  of 
attacking  the  institutions  and  the  character  of  the  Parent  State, 
in  a  tone  both  virulent  and  unjust ;  and  this,  I  am  sorry  to  say, 
is  not  so  much  the  practice  of  native  Americans  as  of  editors 
born  in  England ;  even  those  whose  parents  look  back  with  love 
and  veneration  to  the  country  they  have  left ;  and,  in  one  instance, 
though  their  son  is  a  powerful,  a  mora^,  and  usually  a  conscien- 
tious writer,  yet  is  his  pen  dipped  in  the  gall  of  bitterness  when- 
ever it  approaches  subjects  which  touch  upon  Great  Britain.  He 
forgets,  or  in  his  ignorance  he  does  not  know,  when  echoing  vul- 
gar abuse  of  the  Old  Land  and  the  English  aristocracy,  that,  as 
a  whole,  they  give  an  example  of  energy  in  action,  and  simplicity 
in  manner,  which  might  well  be  copied  here.  British  distinctions 
are  not  derived  solely  from  mammon,  therefore  mammon  is  not 
the  sole  god  of  their  idolatry.  Individuals  are  not  valued  uiiu 
judged  in  England  (as  is  too  generally  the  case  in  America)  by 
the  satin  they  may  have  upon  their  backs,  or  the  dollars  that 


THE   PHES8   OP   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


335 


ion  is  not 


chink  in  their  pockets ;  but  each  individual,  in  fact,  is  appreciated 
according  to  his  intrinsic  qualities.      Those  who  know  the  old 
country  best  will  admit  that  the  influence  attached  to  respective 
grades  of  society  is  lost  by  those  whose  habits  are  unworthy ; 
while,  on  the  other  side,  men  like  Hugh  Miller,  and  others  who 
could  be  pointed  out,  are  not  precluded  from  the  highest  distinc- 
tions if  they  earn  them.     Yet  such  paragraphs  as  these  have  been 
going  the  round  of  the  United  States'  papers : — '  The  meanest 
aristocracy  is  that  of  birth ;  it  ignores  intellect,  energy,  courage, 
and  good  deeds ;  it  demoralizes  Government,  defeats  armies,  and 
disgraces  manhood.      If  there  were  no  aristocracy  of  birth  in 
England,  great  men  would  have  risen  from  the  ranks  to  lead  the 
British  army  in  triumph',  &c.,  &c.,  &c.     Do  these  Democrats  not 
know  that  the  English  people  have  no  wish  to  see  their  army,  like 
that  of  France,  the  chief  aristocracy  of  the  land  ?     I  should  be 
sorry  if  the  time  came  when  the  sword  alone  should  be  permitted 
to  hew  its  way  to  the  principal  distinctions  of  England.     Now,  a 
man  may  rise  more  easily  in  the  law,  the  church,  the  literary,  or 
even  the  artistic  path,  than  in  that  of  the  soldier.    Let  our  young 
men  of  fortune  still  buy  their  commissions,  and  place  themselves 
under  strict  discipline,  and  then  occasionally,  by  succession,  a 
poor  ran  derives  the  benefit ;  but  never  let  the  brave  aspiring 
English  peasant  know  that  his  strong  arm  and  great  heart  are  the 
means  by  which  he  may  most  easily  acquire  a  marshal's  bdton,  a 
ducal  coronet,  for  then  a  military  despotism  may  one  of  these 
days  supplant  the  freest  Constitution  in  the  world.     The  press  of 
the  United  States  is  fond  of  calling  names :  '  British  Flunkeyism,' 
*  Mock   Emperor,'  '  Mock    Representation.'       Americans   have 
chosen  their  forms  of  Government — the  best,  probably,  for   a 
young  rising  people.     Let  them  be  content  with  their  own,  with- 
out abusing  that  of  their  mother  land  ;  but  there  are  signs  in  the 
horizon  which  foretell  that  their  Government  may  not  stand  the 
test  01  centuries.      I  copy  from  American  papers,  that  *  Judge 

fl fnr    anvurnl    vpnva    nnnnnvinflr    the    DOSition    of   AsSOciatO' 

Judge,  and  having  held  other  offices  of  honor  and  profit  as  an  old 
and  influential  citizen  of   Harding  County,  has  been  arrested 


i^rll! 


\IV[ 


iK 


836 


BRIBERY. 


for  counterfeiting  1 '  And  these  prohibitory  liquor-laws,  which 
the  local  legislatures  have  been  so  busy  in  enacting  1  What 
would  be  thought  in  England  of  legislators  who  now  drink  more 
liquor  '  thiin  was  drank  by  that  legislature  who  passed  the  pro- 
hibitory law.' 

The  Temperance  Legislature  of  New  York,  while  on  a  visit 
to  that  city,  got  on  a  '  drunken  spree,  and  broke  up  in  a  row ! ' 
Of  course,  in  these  remarks  I  am  not  alluding  to  the  intelligent 
and  really  distinguished  men  of  America, — ^men  who  have  crossed 
the  Atlantic,  and  made  themselves  acquainted  with  English  insti- 
tutions  and  English  manners.  No  people  are  more  fond  of  titles 
than  Americans  when  they  can  get  hold  of  them.  '  Generals '  and 
*  Judges  '  and  *  Colonels  '  are  plentiful  as  blackberries.  Mere 
boys  assume  these  appellations  often  without  much  claim  to  them ; 
and  every  member  of  Congress  expects  to  be  addressed  in  society 

Honourable.'     Our  members  of  Parliament  are  satisfied  to 


as 


be  so  designated  in  the  House  itself,  but  do  not  claim  the  title 
out  of  doors.  Yet,  I  should  be  sorry  to  hear  even  a  suspicion 
attached  to  the  name  of  any  individual  belonging  to  our  legisla- 
tive bodies,  of  such  gross  derelictions  from  duty  and  honesty  as 
are  not  uncommon  among  the  '  Honourable '  members  of  the 
United  States  Congress. 

Washington  is  a  very  sink  of  corruption.  Those  who  know 
the  place  cannot  deny  that  a  large  psoportion  of  the  gentlemen 
(and  ladies,  too,)  assembled  there  at  one  period  of  the  year  are 
open  to  bribery,  and  that  Bills  to  put  the  almighty  dollars  into 
certain  pockets,  have  been  got  through  by  the  aid  of  establish- 
ments open  to  certain  people,  liberally  supplied  with  liquors  and 
gaming  tables,  and  that  when  people  have  lost  money,  purses 
have  been  at  their  disposal,  of  course  with  the  understanding  that 
their  votes  went  in  the  right  direction.  Can  anything  of  political 
profligacy  be  raked  out  of  the  faults  of  the  old  country  to  match 
this  ?  or  can  the  worst  inventions  of  the  English  press  equal  the 
assertion,  that  John  Bull  publicly  rejoiced  over  the  death  of  the 
Czar,  and  that  the  British  are  a  '  nation  of  brutes  ? '  No  indi- 
vidual or  people  can  claim  the  merit  of  perfectibility,  and  I 


I      I 


CONCLUSION. 


887 


should  not  point  out  the  blots  in  the  American  escutcheon  if  they 
were  not  inclined  to  be  too  busy  in  falsely  bespattering  those  of 
their  neighbours. 

An  electric  despatch  invites  me  to  attend  the  wedding  of  two 
young  friends  at  Albany,  and  particular  circumstances  make  this 
invitation  imperative.  So  for  the  present,  at  any  rate,  I  must 
give  up  my  intended  visit  to  the  Prairies  of  Ohio  and  Illinois. 
By  taking  the  early  train  to-morrow,  I  can  reach  New  York  State 
in  time,  and  allow  for  a  few  hours'  visit  to  Dr.  Kirtland,  at  Cleve- 
land who  has  been  ill,  and  cannot  meet  me  as  he  proposed  to  do. 
I  close  this  packet  here,  and  let  it  go  by  the  first  opportunity. 

Yours  afiectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 

Indianapolis,  May  27. 


P. S.'— This  rambling  epistle  is  hastily  sent  of',  and  I  will 
write  again  from  Albany. 

15 


I'll  II 


OO  ^.o  O-^  O-^  O-^  ^^  ^-^  <■'->  '^■'->  O-^  O'-'  O-^  Cl^> 

^       -"^       t?^       r^       n?^       *rr\       ^-^       *tt\       «e\       *3S.       ---i^       «5«k. 


.„     _     „    .„     _    Zb  ^.iTi  ^o  ^c 

^      >      ^      *;^      t^      <i      -;^      * js      t^      t^      --^ik      ^ 

O-O  0'->  "^  ^>  O-^  -^  O'-^'  O^  O^  O'-^  o*-^  o^ 


^       '^ 


^       ^       ^        ^       ^       t^       t^ 


LETTER  XXYD. 


ALbitrr,  Wa^  18,1860. 

Mt  dear  Friends, — 

I  left  Indianapolis  early  on  Monviay  last,  slept  at  Cleveland, 
and  spent  a  few  hours  with  Dr.  Kirtland  at  Bock  Point,  which 
hours  I  cut  off  the  time  necessary  for  my  journey  by  travelling 
all  night.  I  hope  this  will  bo  my  last  night's  work  during  the 
remainder  of  my  sta^;  in  America,  for  it  is  a  very  disagreeable 
business.  The  wedding  of  my  young  American  friends  will  take 
place  to-morrow,  and  then  I  shall  be  able  to  decide  whether 
there  is  any  chance  of  my  being  able  to  accomplish  the  tours  iq 
the  Adirondack  and  the  Prairies  which  were  planned  last  year. 

May  31. — While  at  breakfast  yesterday  morning,  I  received 
an  invitation  from  the  two  Bishops  of  Pennsylvania  and  New 
York  to  accompany  them  to  the  consecration  of  a  new  church  at 
Troy.  Miss  P was  so  obliging  as  to  come  for  me.  Wo  fol- 
lowed a  beautiful  line  of  railway  for  about  an  hour.  In  tne  so- 
ciety of  two  of  the  most  distinguished  and  excellent  men  in  the 
United  States,  I  enjoyed  this  drive.  The  little  Gothic  church  is 
almost  perfect  in  style  and  taste,  and  although  strictly  architec- 
tural externally,  as  well  as  internally,  it  is  original  in  design 
Every  seat  was  occupied,  and  a  finer  sermon  than  that  preached 
by  the  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania,  :br  such  an  occasion,  I  never 

Uearu eC^Uanj  gt»uu  lu  lutniKL  ub  ii*  xuauucF.  xiiisVQ  nelo  (seve- 
ral clergy  who  took  part  in  the  servfce.  We  had  the  Hundredth 
Psalm  congregationally  sung,  and.  the  Halleluja  Chorus  well 


cro   Bc  V  c- 


TICONDEROOA. 


839 


played ;  if  a  theatrical  kind  of  anthem  had  not  been  inserted 
between  them,  the  music  would  have  been  as  satisfactory  as  the 
other  arrangements,  excepting  that  the  service  was  rather  too 
long.     We  afterwards  lunched  at  the  house  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

T ,  and  did  not  get  back  to  Albany  till  six  in  the  afternoon. 

The  wedding  ceremony,  which  took  place  about  nine  o'clock  the 
same  evening,  was  performed  by  the  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania,  in 
the  presence  of  a  large  party.  This  is  the  fifth  marriage  I  have 
attended  in  America.  I  cannot  resist  a  kind  proposal  of  the 
Bishop's,  that  I  should  accompany  him  and  Mrs.  Potter  through 
%  visitation  tour  in  some  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  his  dio- 
cese. I  shall  join  them  in  Philadelphia  the  6th  instant. 
Whether  the  Adirondack  and  the  Prairies  will  also  be  com- 
prised, I  cannot  yet  tell.  Letters  await  me  at  New  York.  I 
have  had  so  few  from  home  these  last  three  months  that  I  am 
very  anxious.  I  was  roused  by  a  great  noise  made  by  men  in 
the  house  at  three  o'clock  this  morning.  Americans  do  not  seem 
to  have  the  least  idea  of  considering  the  comfort  or  the  slumbers 
of  other  travellers  in  an  hotel,  if  it  please  thera  to  make  an  up- 
roar during  the  night,,  I  heard  corks  drawing,  and  as  the  Maine 
law  has  been  introduced  into  Albany  since  Mr.  Seymour's  gov- 
ernment, I  suppose  that  day  abstinence  is  made  up  for  by  night 
jollity. 

Albany,  June  4. — I  have  been  resting  and  preparing  for  a 

fresh  start  the  6th.     I  shall  leave  K with  friends  here,  and 

be  quite  independent  of  all  but  my  episcopal  guides,  for  Bishop 
Potter  has  engaged  to  give  me  over  to  the  care  of  his  brother  of 
New  York,  somewhere  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  last 
week  of  this  month.  I  wish  to  see  Ticonderoga,  where  my 
mother's  father.  General  Grant,  took  the  42d  Highlanders  (a 
regiment  he  first  raised)  into  battle  eight  hundred  strong  and 
came  out  two  hundred  I — a  Balaclava  in  its  way.  The  sermon  of 
the  Scotch  previously  is  worth  recording :  *  My  lads,  I  hae  nae 
time  for  iang  preachments,  a'  I  hae  to  say  is,  nae  cowards  gao  to 
Heaven ;  and  if  ye  Jinna  kill  thorn  they'll  kill  you.'  I  visited 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  H 'a  pretty  cottage,  and  dined  with  Mr.  and 


m 


f- 


!!? 


ii'i. 


840 


OIRARD    COLLHOE. 


1/  (i 


Mrs.  Ilall,  the  evening  before  I  left  Albany  to  join  the  Bishop 
and  Mrd.  Potter  at  Philadelphia. 

June  C. — I  set  out  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  reached 
New  York  about  half-past  nine.  I  remained  at  the  St.  Nicholas 
hotel  till  six  in  the  evening,  and  saw  there  Governor  Seymour 
and  Sir  Cliarlcs  G^-ey,  who  soon  returns  to  England.  By  the 
mail  train,  after  a  disagreeable  journey,  owing  to  tipsy  rowdies 
being  in  the  same  cars,  I  reached  the  Pier  House,  Philadelphia, 
at  half-past  nine  o'clock.  This  town  looks  to  much  greater  ad- 
vantage, now  the  trees  which  border  the  streets  are  in  leaf. 
After  walking  about  all  the  morning,  weather  damp  and  showery, 
so  violent  a  thunder-storm  came  on  in  the  afternoon,  rain  pour- 
ing down  in  spouts,  and  from  one  house  the  water  falling  from 
the  rough  tiles  in  so  heavy  a  cascade,  that  it  seemed  as  if  a  river 
had  suddenly  burst  from  the  skies.  I  never  saw  rain  in  Europe 
like  this. 

June  8. — Ml*.  S was  so  obliging  as  to  take  me  to  the 

Kensington  end  of  Philadelphia  to   call   upon  Mrs.  11 ,  a 

Quaker  lady,  to  whom  I  was  introduced  at  Washington,  but  she 
was  on  a  tour  in  Kentucky.  In  this  quarter  of  the  town  I  saw 
a  simple  monument,  erected  on  the  spot  where  William  Penn 
made  his  compact  with  the  Indians.  '  Tlie  only  treaty  ever 
made  without  oaths,  and  the  only  one  which  was  never  violated.' 

The  local  Guvernnient  have  purchased  ground  to  make  an 
open  square  here.  We  afterwards  visited  Mr.  Girard's  College 
for  tlio  nurture  and  education  of  boys,  without  reference  to  the 
religious  persuasions  of  their  parents.  I  understand  the  children 
are  religiously  and  morally  brought  up,  but  a  particular  clause  in 
the  will  forbids  the  entrance  of  any  clergyman  into  the  building. 
It  is  a  fine  erection ;  the  pediment  supports  gigantic  Corinthian 
columns,  the  roof  being  entirely  marble ;  such  was  the  weight, 
that  rows  of  parallel  brick  arches  were  erected,  a  few  feet  only 
apart  from  the  supports.     I  went  to  the  top.     li  is  made  for 

Inmates  may  be  received  from  New  Orleans  as  well  as  Philadel- 
phia, because  the  former  was  the  first  port  to  which  the  founder 


A    COAT.    DISTRICT. 


841 


had  a  venture  ;  liis  trade  was  principal]  tvith  China,  and  it  was 
in  Philadelphia  his  fortune  (the  whole  oi  which  is  devoted  to  this 
College)  was  made.  He  left  directions  in  an  elaborate  will,  that 
all  articles  of  household  furniture,  and  even  his  wearing  apparel 
should  be  preserved ;  the  latter,  books,  china,  &c.,  are  in  glass 
cases.  If  the  same  funds  had  been  left  for  educational  purposes, 
there  would  have  been  less  glorification  of  the  founder,  but 
greater  results. 

Afterwards  I  went  to  the  Museum,  where  there  is  one  of  the 
finest  ornithological  collections  in  the  world,  fossils,  and  a  most 
cirious  collection  of  shells,  upon  which  an  elaborate  work,  enti- 
tled Types  of  Mankind,  was  founded.  I  understand  the  book 
is  written  in  a  scoffing  and  ofl'ensive  style,  attacking  the  Bible 
under  the  influence  of  strong  prejudice  ;  but  that  it  contains  val- 
uable facts:  a  habit  among  re'igious  people  of  making  the  truth 
of  the  sacred  Scriptures  to  depend  upon  their  own  'larrow  views, 
has  but  too  frequently  arrayed  the  discoveries  of  sc  ence,  and  the 
visible  works  of  the  Creator,  in  opposition  to  thai  written  word 
wi+h  which  (properly  understood)  they  never  h.'.ve  been,  and 
never  can  be,  otherwise  than  in  accordance. 

At  the  Reading  Station  I  joined  the  Bishop  .nd  Mrs.  P , 

with  their  party  of  travellers  ;  in  all  seven  ;  among  them  a  lady 
and  gentleman  with  whom  I  dined  at  Baltimore.  The  railroad 
crosses  and  recrosses  the  river  Schuylkill,  a  pretty  course,  until 
we  arrived  at  the  hotel  at  Mount  Carbon,  near  Pottsville,  a  pic- 
turesque situation.  I  was  out  at  six  o'clock  next  morning  to  put 
a  recollection  into  my  sketch-book;  after  breakfast  we  all  went  on 
delightful  railway  excursions  in  a  small  car  belouging  to  the  di- 
rectors, up  to  the  first  coal  mines  of  this  mining  country,  through 
which  the  Bishop  is  making  his  visitation.  Nothing  could  be 
more  interesting  than  its  geological  features,  particularly  tu  a 
person  but  little  acquain^^ed  w'ch  the  histor}--  of  coal.  It  lies  very 
i>ear  the  surface  in  extensive  basins — an  anthracite  of  the  most 
brilliant  exterior,  v^hich,  after  being  created,  has  apparently  (for 
the  purpose  of  rendering  it  more  accessible)  been  heaved  up  and 
dislocated  by  the  protrusion  from  beneath  of  conglomerate  rooks 


[i 


'A' 


342 


TRAVELLING  BY   GRAVITATION. 


•^■*ii  m 


■f. 


thrown  up  in  strata,  sometimea  perfectly  vertical.  This  opera* 
tion  has  been  repeated  over  and  over  again  through  the  district 
we  are  visiting,  with  overwhelming  evidence  of  design. 

In  the  shale  above,  we  found  the  usual  carboniferous  fossils, 
and  below  red  sandstone.  All  this  goes  on  through  Pottsville, 
Tuscarora,  Tamaqua,  and  to  Summit,  one  of  the  highest  situa- 
tions, where  we  slept  the  second  night.  From  thence,  early  on 
Sunday  morning,  we  whirled  down  an  inclined  plane  by  gravity 
alone,  about  nine  miles,  in  a  little  open  car,  to  Mauch  rihunk 
(fat  bear  in  the  Indian  langupge),  a  place  set  deep  among  the 
hills  by  the  rapid  dashing  Lehigh,  reminding  me  of  Schalenbad, 
near  Frankfort,  in  Germany,  but  much  more  beautiful.  Instead 
of  wood  slides  down  the  mountain,  here  the  locomotives  rise  up, 
dragging  long  trains  of  coal  waggons  on  ascents  a  mile  and  a  half 
long,  with  a  rise  of  fifteen  hundred  feet.  We  mounted  the  high- 
est, and  descended  by  curves  and  gravity  a  distance  of  sixteen 
miles.  I  was  ashamed  to  shrink  from  the  excursion ;  but  I  mrst 
confess  that  terror  and  anxiety  mastered  enjoyment  with  me,  the 
whole  proceeding  was  so  novel  and  terrific.  Long  practice  must 
be  necessary  to  convince  a  mind  of  its  security.  I  heard  Bishop 
Potter  catechise  the  children  in  church,  concisely,  but  most  effect- 
ively ;  and  after  morning  service,  and  an  excellent  sermon,  he 
confirmed  a  lady  aud  gentleman  of  mature  age.  Baptisms  and 
confirmations  of  grown  up  people  are  common  in  this  country. 
The  episcopal  church  is  increasing  rapidly,  and  at  this  place 
(Scranton),  from  which  I  now  write,  where  the  English  and 
Welsh  miners  are  numerous,  I  am  told  the  people  evince 
great  attachment  to  it.  The  general  affection  for  their  bishop, 
aud  bis  worthiness,  must  tend  much  to  strengthen  this  feeling. 

We  remained  two  days  a  Wilkesbarre,  a  town  on  the  Susque- 
hanna River,  in  the  Valley  of  Wyoming ;  coal-fields  surrounding 
it  in  every  direction,  and,  as  at  Manchester,  descending  planes  of 
railroads  carrying  off  the  produce  on  one  side,  water  carriage 
taking  it  away  the  other,  and  the  neighbourhood  so  beautiful  that 
volu^"-  -^s  of  sketches  might  be  made  here.  We  visited  a  valley 
about  two  miles  distant,  where  coal  excavations,  now  deserted  by 


GEOLOGICAL   RICHES. 


843 


the  Baltimore  company,  resemble  the  openings  of  Egyptian  tombs, 
and  the  entrances  going  straight  into  the  mountain,  are  like  vast 
halls  supported  by  massive  pillars  of  coal.  I  think  there  are 
more  English  settled  in  these  mining  districts  of  Pennsylvania 
than  in  any  part  of  the  United  States  I  have  visited — more  born 
English,  I  mean.  I  have  before  seen  hordes  of  Irish,  but  Eng- 
lish sparely  scattered ;  here  the  Irish  are  in  the  minority.  Those 
I  have  talked  with  say  they  are  physically  comfortable,  and  they 
do  not  dislike  their  new  country ;  but  they  still  prefer  the  old 
one — they  do  not  think  that  practically  there  is  more  liberty  here 
than  in  England ;  and  an  old  soldier  told  me,  in  his  opinion,  the 
men  in  authority  here  '  are  not  as  fitting  for  to  bear  rule  as  them 
with  us.' 

We  are  now  at  dcrantou ;  here  iron  is  plentiful,  and  found  in 
juxtaposition  with  the  coal.  The  railway  bars  are  manufactured 
and  laid  down  at  once,  transmuted  from  the  surrounding  rocks, 
and  made  the  means  of  conveying  their  own  treasures  !  It  has 
been  said  '  an  undovout  astronomer  is  mad ; '  surely  here  one  is 
made  to  say  '  an  undevOut  geologist  must*  bo  insane ! ' 

I  am  in  hopes  this  ugly  name  of  Scranton  may  be  changed  to 
that  of  Lackawanna,  the  Indian  appellation  for  a  lovely  valley, 
which  terminates  the  coal  region  on  this  side.  I  am  now  (June 
16th)  writing  from  a  town  called  Montrose,  situated  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  Pennsylvania ;  it  is  a  very  elevated  situation.  We 
rose  a  hill  for  some  distance.  The  railway  had  conducted  us 
about  forty  miles  from  Scranton ;  our  way  followed  the  course  of 
a  deep  glen,  much  resembling  Glen  Tilt,  in  Blair  Athol,  and  we 
are  hospitably  received  at  the  house  of  a  gentleman  here. 

Montrose,  June  17, — After  Morning  Service  the  Bishop's 
duties  took  us  to  the  house  of  a  gentleman  and  lady,  near  Spring- 
field ;  and  I  do  not  think  I  was  ever  more  interested  by  any  re- 
ligious services  than  there.  A  country  church,  which  probably 
accommodated  from  two  to  three  hundred  people,  was  filled  to 
overflowing  by  a  respectable  looking  congregation,  of  which  the 
majority  were  men.  After  an  excellent  sermon,  touching  upon 
the  dangers,  particularly  imminent  in  thriving  communities,  of 


II' I' 


844 


NOTEL    CHURN. 


the  prevalence  of  a  mammonite  covetous  spirit,  the  Bishop  gave  a 
short  and  simple  explanation  of  the  reasons  which  maku  confir- 
mation a  rite  of  the  episcopal  communion,  preparatory  to  the  re- 
ception of  seven  candidates ;  one  a  venerable  looking  old  man, 
and  the  other  six  considerably  past  youth.  The  whole  congrega- 
tion remained  as  witnesses,  wrapt  in  mute  attention  ;  the  ceremo- 
ny was  strikingly  impressive.  That  cartoon  of  Paul  preaching 
at  Athens,  was  vividly  brought  to  my  mind  by  the  massive  figure 
and  countenance  of  the  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania,  earnest,  elo- 
quent, self-forgetting ;  every  eye  turned  upon  him  with  an  ex- 
pression of  love  and  veneration  which  could  hardly  have  been  ex- 
ceeded in  Apostolic  days.  Here,  too,  were  early  converts ;  here, 
too,  might  be  doubters  and  cavillers  to  whom  the  scene  was  new ; 
but  I  felt  sure  that  on  this  occasion  many  a  sheep  was  gathered 
into  one  fold  under  one  shepherd ;  and  by  a  shepherd,  too,  who 
would  watch  over  his  increasing  flock  with  wisdom  as  well  as  ten- 
derness. He  is  now  received  under  a  roof  not  professedly  at- 
tached to  his  church ;  but  the  hearts  are  with  him,  whether  the 
external  profession  of  its  inmates  may  be  his  or  not. 

A  visit  to  this  district  is  extremely  refreshing  as  a  counter- 
poise to  the  more  worldly,  ostentations,  selfih  communities  of  com- 
mercial places.  FiCre  simplicity  of  manners,  quietude  of  dress, 
and  friendliness  of  feeling,  are  united  with  refinement  and  culture ; 
it  is  under  such  circumstances  that  the  American  character  is 
seen  to  advantage.  Agriculture  predominates,  and  trade  is  sub- 
ordinate ;  the  influence  of  the  former  is  certainly  more  salutary  ; 
and  when  farming  and  gardening  are  pursued  as  a  relaxation  by 
men  engaged  in  commercial  life,  I  have  remarked  their  beneficial 
influence  upon  character.  A.  fine  view  of  part  of  the  Alleghany 
chain  of  mountains  is  obtained  from  this  place  ;  and  there  is  an 
interesting  little  farm  belonging  to  our  hosts,  which  supplies  the 
best  butter  and  cream  I  have  tasted  in  the  United  States ;  and 
what  is  more,  the  butter  is  churned  by  the  willing  co-operation  of 
animals  I  never  before  saw  industriously  occupied.  A  small  cir- 
cular treadmill  turns  a  wheel,  attached  to  a  kind  of  piston,  which 
falls  into  the  churn ;  a  ewe  and  her  lambs  are  engaged  in  walkmg 


VALLEY  OF  PEACE. 


345 


up-hill,  towards  a  small  hole  in  the  wall  of  the  shed  which  shel- 
ters the  machine.  A  little  salt  and  some  meal  placed  in  the  hole 
is  at  once  an  incentive,  and  a  reward  of  exertion  ;  and  the  old  and 
young  sheep  appear  most  contentedly  employed,  while  a  dairy- 
woman  is  spared  labour.  She  at  times  stops  the  machinery  to 
rest  the  animals,  who  always  seem  willing  to  walk  on  again  after 
a  few  minutes.  As  the  movement  depends  upon  weight,  a  sheep 
is  more  useful  than  a  dog  for  this  avocation  ;  besides  which  the 
latter  is  loss  plodding  and  not  so  benefited  by  clambering;  and 
the  fattening  of  the  mutton  while  her  work  goes  on,  is  a  proof  it 
agrees  with  her.  I  have  ordered  one  of  these  machines,  and  hope 
it  will  be  a  useful  present  to  an  English  dairy. 

We  returned  to  Montrose  the  evening  of  the  18th,  as  the 
Bishop  was  engaged  jto  lecture  there  upon  the  '  Character  of 
Washington,'  in  aid  of  the  funds  for  building  a  parsonage  house. 
His  confirmation  next  day  was  at  a  place  named  Pike,  and  he  al- 
lowed me  to  accompany  him  to  see  the  Wiolusing  (valley  of  peace). 
More  appropriate  and  beautiful  Indian  names  have  been  retained 
hereabouts  than  is  common  in  America.  The  Susc[uehanna 
(winding  river)  twists  about  so  as  almost  to  encircle  the  country 
wo  have  been  traversing.  We  left  Montrose  early  on  the  21st, 
and  went  by  New  Milford  to  Great  Bend  ;  wooded  hills  and  vales 
are  diversified  by  lakes  and  streams  the  whole  way  to  Owcgo  (or 
Auwega,  the  Indian  name),  from  which  place  I  now  write;  the 
Susquelianna  again  flowing  opp'»site  our  hotel,  as  it  did  a  hundred 
miles  otF  at  Wilkesbarre.     To-morrow  we  proceed  to  Towanda. 

June  26. — Another  pretty  place  on  the  Susquehanna.  We 
have  again  followed  that  river  from  Great  Bend.  The  valley  from 
Waverley  here  is  exceedingly  fine,  much  resembling  that  of  the  Inn 
in  Bavaria ;  but  the  carriage-road  follows  the  edge  of  a  precipice 
nearly  the  whole  way,  and  it  is  so  narrow,  that  once  when  we  met 
a  small  wagon,  the  horses  were  taken  off,  and  the  vehicle  baclccd 
some  distance  before  we  could  pass.  On  Sunday  last  I  saw  a 
young  lady,  of  mature  ago,  baptized ;  the  baptismal  font  (as  is 
Usual  In  America)  was  within  the  coraraunion-rails,  botween  tho 
reading-desk  and  pulpit;  and  to  those  who  consider  symbidisms 
15* 


846 


EL  AURA. 


itA 


secondary  to  other  considerations,  this  is  pleasing  and  conrenient 
OS  the  lecipicut  kneels  down  at  the  rails.  In  the  evening  the 
Bishop  couiirnicd  the  persona  also  chiefly  beyond  youth ;  and  in 
the  afternoon  he  had  a  Service,  principally  for  children. 

2Hh. — Mr.  W took  charge  of  the  rest  of  the  party  dur- 
ing a  glorious  drive  of  twenty  miles  across  the  mountains,  while 

the  Bishop  and  Mrs.  P went  oflf  to  another  point  for.  some 

distant  duty.     We  did  not  meet  them  again  till  we  had  slept  at 

the  pretty  town  of  Elmira,  where  Mrs.  W and  I  took  a 

pleasant  and  beautiful  walk  to  one  of  numerous  hills  which  sur- 
round the  place,  and.  there  we  saw  a  brilliant  sunset.  Here  the 
formation  is  sand-stone,  rich  in  fost>.  The  River  Chemung flowa 
through  Elmira.     We  retired  early  and  were  up  again  by  four 

o'clock.     The  Bishop  met  us  at  a  station  near  C ,  and  we 

wore  driven  to  Wellsborough  by  a  gentleman  who  came  with  hia 
carriage.     There  several  hospitable  houses  were  opened  to  the 

party,  but  we  at  last  concentrated  it  at  Mr.  C 's,  which  was 

sufficiently  large  to  receive  us  all,  and  to  bestow  every  luxury  and 
comfort. 

At  first  I  was  taken  charge  of  most  kindly  by  another 
family,  and  I  felt  almost  open  to  the  charge  of  ingratitude  when 
I  left  them,  at  the  instance  of  our  guide  and  governor,  to  rejoin 
the  rest  of  our  travelling  party ;  but  the  son  of  those  I  deserted 
still  undertook  to  aid  my  sketching  and  botanical  propensities. 
In  a  distant  ramble  he  procured  me  some  yellow  water  lilies, 
the  large  leaves  of  which  were  more  dark  and  shining  than  ours 
{Nitpha?-  advena,  or  Spatter  dock).  They  ornament  the  small 
creeks  about  here.  Gray  mentions  the  plant  as  most  common  in 
shallow  waters.  We  found  it  blooming  only  at  a  depth  of  three 
i  r  four  feet,  and  sometimes  the  flowers  were  to  be  observed  quite 
under;  perhaps  this  was  in  consequence  of  a  late  sudden  rise 
in  the  streams.  Linnaca  borealis  was  plentiful,  carpeting  a  for- 
est of  gigantic  white  pines ;  and  in  the  meadows  I  found  Astei 
graminifolius. 

Within  thirty  or  forty  miles  of  this  place,  Rosa  Lake  gives 
rise  to  three  streams,  whioh  flow  north,  east,  and  south.     Ono 


PLKA8ANT   THAVELLERS. 


847 


empties  itself  into  tho  S^t.  Lawrence;  another  into  the  Ghesa- 
peake,  and  a  third  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ;  so  that  theuo  mouu< 
tains  must  indeed  be  the  Highlands  of  the  United  States. 

On  TliL'isday,  the  28th  of  June,  we  left  Wellsborough,  after 
entering  tho  cars  sixteen  mile,  off.  Wo  journeyed  to  Bataviu, 
passing  by  Bath  and  tho  medicinal  springs  of  Avon.  On  tho 
29th,  the  rest  of  the  party  loft  me  to  proceed  to  Niagara,  and  I 
went  alone  forty  miles  by  railroad  to  Canandaigua,  where  I  again 

find  myself  tho  guest  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G with  whom  I  stayed 

some  days  last  October. 

On  Monday,  July  2nd,  I  hope  to  reach  Utica,  where  R 

is  awaiting  me,  with  the  Governor  and  Mr,:*.  Seym-  ar.  The 
weather  is  now  intensely  hot:  for  three  days  the  +1;  jrmometer 
has  ranged  above  ninety  degrees  in  the  shade.  Verj/  active  loco- 
motion must  be  given  up  till  after  August,  uu  [  shall  take  lliis 
time  for  making  quiet  visits  among  friends  in  New  York  and  New 
England  States ;  first  seeing  Trenton  Falls,  where  I  hope  once  more 
to  meet  tho  Bishop  of  Pennsylvania  and  his  party.  We  wero 
together  three  such  pleasant  weeks !  I  feel  sure  that  not  one 
unkind  thought,  or  even  one  careless  word  cast  a  shadow  over 
the  enjoyment  of  a  single  individual  among  the  seven  who  thus 
journeyed  together ;  and  yet  I  have  heard  it  said  that  travelling 
in  company  is  one  of  the  most  severe  tests  to  which  temper  and 
friendship  can  be  subjected.  I  do  not  subscribe  to  that  opinion. 
Change  of  scene  is  in  itself  a  i  .ui'Lhy  kind  of  excitement,  and 
therefore  it  is  likely  to  make  people  good-humoured,  and  more 
accommodating  than  usual.  I  should  be  sorry  to  pin  my  faith 
upon  the  every-day  kindnesw  of  a  cross  traveller. 

The  country  between  Batavia  and  Canandaigua  is  less  at- 
tractive than  that  we  have  lately  seen.  We  came  through  part 
of  the  Genesee  Valley  the  day  before  yesterday,  which  is  very 
fine.  Twenty  years  ago  that  was  the  boundary  of  civilization ; 
now  it  is  in  the  midst  of  towns  and  settlements.  Anglo-Saxon 
energy,  with  a  dash  of  German  determination  and  Irish  quick- 
ness, is  flvincr  over  this  immense  continent  almost  as  fast  as  the 
stream  of  electricity  pervades  and  connects  its  most  remote  locali' 


^^ ! 


iiiii 


848 


UTIOA. 


!:  -vl- 


ties.  Talk  of  American  nationality  !  as  if  America  is  not  an 
epitome  of  the  world ;  and  surely  the  inhabitants  of  America 
may  well  be  proud  of  their  cosmopolitanism,  instead  of  fostering 
A  narrow  sectional  spirit.  They  may  succeed  in  transferring  the 
blood  of  all  nationalities  into  a  pure  New  World  stream,  if  it  be 
only  healthfully  taken  charge  of,  with  the  sole  exception  of  one 
dark  current,  with  which  they  are  entrusted  for  purification,  not 
amalgamation — ^for  education;  not  adoption.  I  forgot  to  say  that 
my  intention  of  joining  Bishop  Horatio  Potter  was  given  up,  or 
rather  he  has  given  me  up.  His  brother  concludes  that  Church 
affairs  drew  him  another  way;  and  T  have  had  quite  suflBcient 
to  fill  up  my  time  without  attempting  Ticonderoga  at  present. 

Utica,  July  3. — Yesterday  I  accomplished,  without  much 
difficulty,  a  solitary  journey  here.  More  numerous  packages 
(occupied  by  stones  and  flowers,  «fec.)  than  were  quite  convenient 
for  an  individual  to  undertake,  during  the  necessary  change  of 
cars  at  Syracuse,  exercised  care  and  patience ;  but  I  brought  them 

all  safe,  and  I  have  now  rejoined  R .     My  English  letters 

have  been  delivered  at  New  York — a  disappointment,  as  I  hoped 
to  find  them  here  ;  but  the  electric  telegraph  will  bring  them 
quickly,  and  in  the  meanwhile  I  find  some  interesting  American 
correspondence,  particularly  a  letter  from  Bishop  Elliott,  in 
answer  to  an  inquiry  of  mine  as  to  whether  Miss  Bremer  had  not 
misunderstood  his  opinion  upon  slavery.  I  am  not  forbidden  to 
quote  from  his  reply,  and  I  therefore  extract  freely  from  the  con- 
clusion. He  first  explains  that  he  had  only  agreed  with  Miss 
Bremrr  in  combating  some  extreme  opinions.  It  is  too  impor- 
tant not  to  be  made  use  of 

The  Bishop  then  says : —  ^ 

*  Is  is  well  for  Christians  and  philanthropists  to  consider 
whether,  by  their  inteference  with  this  institution,  they  may  not 
be  checking  and  impeding  a  work  which  is  manifestly  providential. 
For  nearly  a  hundred  years  the  English  and  American  Churches 
have  been  striving  to  civilize  and  Oliristianize  Western  Africa, 
find  with  what  result  ?  Around  Sierra  Lpono,  and  in  the  neiuh- 
bourhood  of  Cape  Palmas,  a  few  natives  have  been  made;  CliridUaus 


BISHOP    ELLIOTT    ON   SLAVERT. 


849 


and  some  nations  have  been  partially  civilized ;  but  what  a  small 
number  in  comparison  with  the  thousands,  nay,  I  may  say  millions, 
who  have  learned  the  way  to  Heaven,  and  who  have  been  made 
to  know  their  Saviour  through  the  means  of  African  slavery  ! 
At  this  very  moment  there  are  from  three  to  four  millions  of 
Africans,  educating  for  earth  and  for  Heaven  in  the  so  vilified 
Soutiiern  States — educating  in  a  thousand  ways  of  which  the  world 
knows  notliing — educating  in  our  nurseries,  in  our  chambers,  in 
our  parlours,  in  our  workshops,  and  in  our  fields,  as  well  as  in  our 
churches;  learning  the  very  bast  lessons  for  a  semi-barbarous 
people — lessons  of  self-control,  of  obedience,  of  perseverance,  of 
adaption  of  means  to  ends ;  learning,  above  all,  where  their  weak- 
ness lies,  and  how  they  may  acquire  strength  for  the  battle  of  life. 
These  considerations  satisfy  me  with  their  condition,  and  assure 
me  that  it  is  the  best  relation  they  can,  for  the  present,  be  made 
to  occupy.  As  a  race,  they  are  steadily  improving.  So  far  from 
the  institution  being  guilty  of  degrading  the  negro,  and  keeping 
him  in  degradation,  it  has  elevated  him  in  the  scale  of  being  much 
above  his  nature  and  race,  and  it  is  continuing  to  do  so.  Place 
an  imported  African  (of  whom  a  few  still  remain)  side  by  side 
with  one  of  the  third  or  fourth  generation,  and  the  difference  is  so 
marked  that  they  look  almost  like  distinct  races — not  only  in 
niiud  and  knowledge,  but  in  physical  structure 

'  Tliat  monkey  face,  the  result  of  an  excessively  obtuse  facial 
angle,  has  become,  without  any  admixture  of  blood,  almost  as 
human  as  that  we  are  accustomed  to  see  in  the  white  race,  and  it 
has  a  facial  angle  as  distinctly  a  right  angle  as  that  which  belongs 
to  the  Caucasian  family.  The  thick  lips  have  become  thin — the 
dull  eye  is  beaming  with  cunning,  if  not  with  intelligence;  the 
understanding  is  acute  and  ingenious.  Their  knowledge,  when 
they  have  been  instructed  by  missionaries  or  by  owners,  is  re- 
spectable. A  man  has  been  made  out  of  a  barbarian,  an  intelli- 
gent and  useful  labourer  out  of  an  ignorant  savage — a  Christian 
and  a  child  of  God,  out  of  a  heatlien ;  and  this  is  called  degrad- 
ing the  African  race,  by  holding  them  in  slavery  I  Such  language 
is  only  of  a  piece  with  that  miserably  false  scutimsutalism  which 


p 

i  III! 


350 


BISHOP   ELLIOTT   ON   SLAVERY. 


is  pervading  the  world — such  sentimentalism  as  thinks  it  cruel 
that  a  child  should  be  disciplined  or  a  criminal  punished ;  which 
looks  so  tenderly  upon  the  means  as  quite  to  overlook  the  great 
end  those  means  may  be  working  out.  God's  ways  are  not  dis- 
cordant with  this  way  of  Slavery.  He  who  sees  everything  in  its 
true  aspect,  with  whom  a  thousand  years  is  as  one  day — in  whose 
sight  the  light  affliction  of  this  life,  which  is  but  for  a  moment,  is 
far  outweighed  by  the  glory  which  is  to  follow— cares  very  little 
for  the  present  means  through  which  His  will  is  working.  What 
is  it  that  a  man  should  be  a  slave,  if  through  that  means  he  may 
become  a  Christian  ?  What  is  it  that  one,  or  even  ten  genera- 
tions should  be  slaves,  if,  through  that  arrangement,  a  race  be 
training  for  future  glory  and  self-dependence  ?  What  are  the 
sufferings  (putting  them  at  the  worst)  which  the  inhumanity  and 
self  interest,  and  the  restraints  of  law  can  inflict  for  a  few  gene- 
rations, when  compared  with  the  blessings  which  may  thus  be 
wrought  out  for  countless  nations  inhabiting  a  continent  ?  What 
is  to  be  the  course  and  what  the  end  of  this  relation,  God  only 
knows.  My  feeling  just  now  is,  thot  I  would  defend  it  against 
all  interference,  just  as  I  should  defeadi  my  children  from  any  one 
who  would  tempt  them  to  an  improper  independence ;  just  as  I 
should  defend  any  relation  of  life  which  man  was  attempting  to 
break  or  to  violate,  ere  the  purpose  of  God  in  it  had  been  worked 
out.' 

And  these  are  the  opinions  of  Bishop  Elliott,  of  Georgia,  the 
man  who  remained  nursing  and  consoling  the  sick  and  the  dying, 
and  burying  the  dead,  when  Savannah  was  decimated  by  yell(»w 
fever,  and  when  thousands  were  falling  victims  around  him ! 
After  this,  who  will  dare,  with  a  self-laudatory  philanthropy, 
stand  up  and  contrast  his  own  abolitionism  with  the  patient  prac- 
tical doings  of  a  conscientious  slave-owner  ?  Unhappily,  it  has 
of  late  years  been  too  common  among  well-intentioned  weak  Chris- 
tians to  set  up  a  stock  of  philanthropy  at  the  expense  of  others. 
Let  all  do  the  work  at  their  own  doors,  and  tho  worlc  of  God  in 
the  world  will  be  well  done.  If  each  man  will  reform  himself, 
human  nature  will  be  effectually  mended.     But,  as  theory  is 


A   NEGRO   WEDDING. 


851 


easier  than  practice,  so  it  is  more  common  to  look  after  the.  mote 
in  our  brother's  eye  than  to  take  the  beam  out  of  our  own. 

As  a  commentary  upon  the  Slavery  question,  I  add  two 
articles  taken  from  newspapers — one,  the  account  of  a  negro 
wedding,  the  other  descriptive  of  a  negro  funeral.  I  must  also 
mention  that,  in  conversing  with  the  free  blacks,  I  rarely  find 
them  contented  with  their  situation.  An  intelligent  well-looking 
black  carried  my  things  from  an  hotel  at  Ba+avia  to  the  train.    I 

inquired  if  he  liked  the  country  ? — '  Pretty  well,  missus,  but ' 

There  is  always  a  '  but '  from  the  lips  of  a  Northern  black — rarely 
expressed  in  the  South,  where  it  is  generally,  '  Mighty  fond  of 
master  or  missus ;  black  people  well  to  do,  not  often  too  much 
work,  missus ;'  '  Many  has  got  plenty  of  jewelry,  missus ; '  *  We 
get  our  own  way  tolerable,  missus,'  &c.,  &c. 


Staunton,  June  24,  1855. 

A    SLAVE    WEDDING    IN    OLD    VIRGINIA— THE    INVITATIONS- 
NEGRO  ARISTOCRACY,  &c.,  &c. 

I  send  you  herewith  the  originals  of  three  invitations  to  a  negro  wedding, 
which  is  to  take  place  on  the  27th,  at  Richmond.  The  envelopes  are  in  the 
hest  style  of  De  La  Rue  and  Co.,  open-work  embossed,  and  of  the  finest  tex- 
ture.    They  enclose  an  embossed  card,  inscribed  thus : — 


Mr.  and  Mrs.  Taylor  will  he  pleased  to  see  you  on 
Wednesday  Evening,  June  27th,  at  8^  o'clock. 

Maria  Johnson. 
Adam  Hawkins. 
Richmond. 


The  superscription  is  as  follows : — *  Mr.  Charles  Jackson  and  lady,  pre- 
sent ;'  the  second  is  to  •  Mr.  Henry  Cassie  and  lady,  present ; '  and  the  third 
to  '  Mrs.  Jane  Hawkins.'  The  notes  are  written  in  a  neat,  Italian  hand- 
■^rritirig,  and  tied  with  while  satin  ribbon,  «  la  mode  de  Paris. 

These  invitations  were  all  received  by  members  of  my  family.  Mrs. 
Hawkins  itt  my  cook ;  Mrs.  Jackson  my  Laundreas ;   Mrs.  CMaie  my  jlSUt  d» 


352 


A  NEORO  FUMEKAL. 


chavAre,  They  are  all  slaves,  and  their  husbands  are  also  slaves,  owned  by 
some  of  my  neighbours.  The  happy  bridegroom  is  related  to  my  coloured 
family.  They  will  doubtlc?s  have  a  happy  time  of  it,  and  I  commend  to 
Greeley  the  case  of  these  ■ '  oppressed  children  of  Africa,'  I  am  sorry  that 
every  abolitionist  in  the  land  should  not  have  an  opportianity  to  see  one  such 
Virginia  wedding.  Valley. 


PI  ' 


-1 
■if 


.f,  :i  I'.'S 


^il'  it 

^v^f' 

UittH 

pi 

u^  Jl 

Hpil 

H||:    :| 

iiLl 

A  LARGE  NEGRO  FUNERAL. 

A  coloured  man  named  Samuel  Betterson,  an  ordained  deacon  of  the  3d 
Coloured  Baptist  Church,  was  buried  yesterday  afternoon,  A  very  large 
number  of  his  friends  followed  him  to  his  grave.  We  noticed  in  the  procession, 
three  uniformed  fire  companies,  and  another  joined  them  on  the  South  Com- 
mon. The  Porter's  Association,  of  which  he  was  a  member,  turned  out,  and 
wore  black  licarfs,  with  white  rosettes.  We  also  noticed  in  the  procession, 
two  or  three  Female  Benevolent  Associations,  distinguished  by  suitable  dresses. 
A  spectator  counted  thirty-five  carriages,  well  filled,  besides  a  number  of  other 
conveyances,  and  many  on  horseback,  following  the  hearse.  It  is  estimated 
that  between  two  thousand  and  two  thousand  five  hundred  coloured  persons 
were  in  the  procession. 

The  mother  of  the  Rev.  John  Cox,  the  coloured  pastor  of  the  3d  Baptist 
Church,  was  also  buried  yesterday  afternoon.  About  fifty  carriages,  con- 
taining her  relations  and  friends,  followed  her  remains  to  the  grave. 

John  Guerrard,  a  coloured  fireman,  and  a  member  of  engine  No,  5,  was 
also  buried  yesterday  afternoon.  The  members  of  his  company,  in  uniform, 
and  a  large  number  of  his  friends,  in  carriages  and  on  horseback,  followed 
him  to  the  grave.  ' 

We  will  add,  for  the  information  of  our  northern  friends,  that  the  funeral 
processions  above  noticed  were  perfectly  quiet  and  orderly,  and  that  every 
tlung  connected  with  them  was  conducted  with  the  utmost  decorum  and 
propriety. 

July  4, — I  am  now  again  with  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Seymour.  Utica 
is  a  ploasant  town ;  the  Valley  of  the  Mohawk,  in  which  it  is 
situated,  is  highly  cultivated,  Mrs.  J,  Seymour  took  me  last  even- 
ing to  one  of  the  low  surrounding  hills,  and  I  thouglit  the  view 
resembled  those  from  some  of  our  Gloucestershire  elevations. 
DcG  tiic  pretty  rurjii  cemetery,  anu  sat  uown  upon  a 


»»  u   vvuUu     tO 


boulder  of  granite,  once  considered  the  sacred  stone  of  the  In- 


CA2EK0V1A. 


353 


dians.  It  was  brought  from  a  distance  of  thirty  miles  to  save  it 
from  destruction,  and  room  was  left  around  the  little  mound  where 
it  wa«  placed  for  the  intern. '"nt  of  any  of  the  red  people  who  might 
wish  to  be  buried  near  it.  Many  of  them  attended  the  consecra- 
tion of  the  cemetery,  but  not  one  has  ever  availed  himself  of  the 
privilege  of  interment  there,  partly  because  the  tribethave  almost 
all  gone  West ;  and  ,any  individuals  who  may  still  linger  in  the 
Oneida  land  are  too  poor  to  incur  the  expense  of  distant  funerals. 

Hero  there  is  an  American  nursery  gardener  really  fond  of 
flowers — the  first  time  I  have  met  with  a  native  of  the  United 
States  with  thai?  taste  powerful  enough  to  induce  him  to  devote 
himself  i,u  their  cultivation.  All  the  nursery  men  I  have  made 
acquaintance  with  before  have  been  English,  Scotch,  or  Irish,  and 
none  of  them  found  sufl&cient  encouragement  to  be  much  devoted 
to  their  pursuit.  This,  the  Anniversary  of  American  Indepen- 
dence, is  a  day  of  noisy  rejoicing,  taken  advantage  of  by  boys 
and  men  for  a  Saturnalia  of  squibs  and  crackers,  which  are  not 
only  unceasingly  exploding  to-day,  but  have  been  unpleasantly 
active  ever  since  I  arrived,  on  Monday.  It  is  more  alarming  for 
horses  and  for  petticoats  than  even  our  celebration  of  Guy  Fawkes. 
In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour  are  to  take  me  to  the 
residence  of  their  brother-in-law,  forty  miles  off,  at  Cazenovia, 
which  I  understand  is  a  beautiful  locality,  and  one  abounding  in 
fossil:. 

Cazenovia,  July  5. — ^We  went  thirty-fiv    miles  by  cars,  a  few 

miles  in  a  t>'n,go,  and  at  Chittenango  Mr.  L met  us  with  his 

carriage.  Chittenango  means,  'the  river  flowing  north;'  Che- 
nango, '  the  water  going  south.'  From  Chittenango  there  is  a 
gradual  rise  of  eighi  riles  to  Cazenovia.  Limestone  caps  the 
hills  :  as  you  advance,  scarlet  berrieri  ciders  appear  accompanying 
it ;  aud  by  the  sides  of  the  valley  I  luund  Psoralea  Onoiv-ches* 
the  scarlet  maple,  and  a  beautiful  rose-coloured  Calystcgia,  so 
difl'orcut  in  tint  and  character  from  Sepium,  I  can  think  it  onl  / 
a  variety.  We  stopped  on  our  way  to  see  a  pretty  fall  of  the 
Chittenango.  I  expected  to  find  Cazenovia  a  wild,  rocky,  moun- 
tainous lake,  tho  settlement  built  of  log-houses,  and  buried  in 


!    i  'i  I  I'l 


364 


ORNITHOLOGY. 


iH-'d. 


'A 


w 


f: 

j  ,  i^^i 

.)    4 

^i^H| 

'    '-S 

I9^^B 

^ 

I^H^^^Hi 

,  !-■  1  ■  ■'^ 

!^9R^n^^^B 

' '  '^  V  l^^Kk 

lii 

Mm 

pme-woods.  I  find  a  calm  water,  somethmg  liko  Winhnm  Pond, 
about  four  vniles  long,  with  au  ornanientel  rcgulir  liltio  town, 
and  Mr.  L.'s  liouse  overlooking  the  water — a  &olid,  brick,  LVojIish- 
liko  r'uid/.ucc.  It  is  all  pretty,  bit  qui''/  iu  u  :Viiifer5.,it  sivj  from 
that  my  imagination  huJ  pictured.  The  /iituation  ia  us  high  as 
the  Lake  of  Gcaova.  Wt^  took  aa  interesting  drive  yesterday  to 
see  one  of  tlie  sulphur  sinks,  or  green  ponds,  twelve  miles'  distance, 
and  on  the  T\'ay  there  were  uxtvr  dud  '^^•iews  in  <!\  ery  direction. 
One  fine  prospect  tr..)k  in  the  v/hole  length  of  Lake  Oaoxda,  twen- 
ty wilod;  and  iu  that  direction  ii  so,;med  nossi.bl'-^  to  see  almost 
to  Ouuada,  Valkj'H  between  these  limestone  ridges  are  believed 
Id  be  '! '.!  work  of  denudation,  and  such  circular  ponds  as  those 
wo  ftaw  yesterday  have  been  possibly  caused  by  the  melting  of 

salt  f  jruiaticns,  which  Mr.  L thinks  may  have  been  carried 

oft'  to  enrich  the  salt-pans  of  Syracuse,  The  fossils  of  this  district 
are  very  interesting  and  new  to  me  :  I  never  before  saw  such  gi- 
gantic Trilobites — they  are  almost  as  large  as  the  cast  of  one 
siiown  to  me  at  Cincinnati. 

At  last  I  liave  seen  a  humming-bird  ;  and,  foolishly  enough,  I 
was  surprised  by  its  humming.  I  thought  the  name  was  owing 
to  their  resc  mblunce  to  a  bee  on  the  wing,  but  they  hum  louder 
than  any  bee  ;  and  the  one  I  saw  sat  a  long  time  on  a  sprig,  and 
seemed  to  be  drying  his  little  self  in  the  sun,  after  the  wet  in  the 
morning;  if  disturbed,  it  only  flew  to  a  post  near  the  tree  upon 
which  we  first  observed  it,  and  then  went  back  again.  I  did  not 
sec  him  feed ;  yet  I  understand  he  is  seldom  to  be  seen  but  on 
the  wing  feeding.  Yesterday,  Mr.  L pointed  out  the  king- 
bird, a  little  unarmed  bird,  which,  by  activity  and  perseverance, 
asserts  a  sovereignty  over  the  feathered  tribe,  and  chases  even 
hawks  away  from  a  field.  I  observed  him  banishing  a  crow  six 
times  as  large  as  himself:  he  follows  'n  •os'santly,  and  tormenls 
until  his  subject  flies  ofl;  Here  I  have  n  shown  some  curious 
nests.  T^  seems  the  cow-bird  in  this  mtj  is  as  indolent  a 
mother  .  mr  cuckoo  :  she  lays  an  ;,;>'  u.  the  nests  of  other  birds, 
and  Icu.  Co  it  to  take  its  chance  ii.  ;  pi  range  family.  A  speoiei 
of  linnet  is  wise  enough  to  find  out  i  'j  rborty  taken  at  her  ox 


RUKAL   HOTEL. 


855 


pense :  in  one  instance  she  inserted  another  nest  above  the  in- 
truded egg,  so  as  to  leave  it  unhatchcd;  in  another,  the  linnet 
contrived  to  sink  the  cow-bird's  progeny  below  her  own  eggs. 
The  oriole  will  appropriate  any  silk  or  worsted  put  in  her  way, 
and  I  am  to  have  a  very  pretty  nest  interlaced  with  scarlet  wool ; 
and  the  fine  line  of  a  fishing  rod,  with  the  hook  attached,  has 
also  been  tm*ned  in  with  other  materials.  The  yellow  linnet  is  a 
very  showy  little  bird.  I  have  seen  here  also  a  milk-white  wood- 
pecker, with  black  wings  and  neck.  What  is  here  called  a  robin 
is  more  like  one  of  ouv  thrushes,  with  a  faint  tinge  of  red  on  his 
breast.  It  may  be  remarked  in  this  neighbourhood,  elevated  as 
it  is,  that  a  large  quantity  of  drift  has  at  some  time  been  brought 
here  from  Canada.  Large  boulders  and  rolled  pebbles  of  granite 
and  gneiss  form  part  of  it ;  and  as  these  increase  in  size  and 
quantity  going  northward,  their  progress  and  direction  can  be 
traced.  In  a  forest  near  the  '  Green  Pond,'  for  the  first  time  I 
found  what  is  called  the  walking  fern  {Camptosorus  rhizophyllus). 
.  Friday,  July  6. — We  set  off  to  see  a  pretty  waterfall  about 
eight  miles  from  Cazenovia,  and  as  I  sketched  from  long  grass  in 
a  down-pour  of  rain,  I  got  thoroughly  wet ;  but  the  interest  of 
the  place  kept  me  warm,  and  no  mischief  happened  from  the  /"rive 
back  in  wet  things.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  rowed  upon  the 
lake  very  pleasantly  by  a  little  girl  under  twelve  years  of  age. 

Ji'ly  1th. — I  returned  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour  to  Utica, 
in  our  way  to  Trenton  Falls,  where  we  met  three  of  my  fel- 
low-tourists in  Pennsylvania ;  but  the  Bishop  and  Mrs.  Potter  had 
been  obliged  to  go  off  in  another  direction. 

July  8th. — This  is  the  most  charming  and  rural  hotel  I  have 
seen  in  A.nieriea ;  it  is  situated  almost  in  a  dense  liemlock  spruce 
ff-i^.ni,  auii  has  a  garden  quite  English  in  style  and  neatness;  and 
tli'3  rcoui  brightly  clean  and  comfortable,  are  decorated  with 
prints  and  arawings  chosen  with  artistic  taste.  The  present  land- 
lord married  a  daugl  .or  of  the  first  possessor  of  this  property 
twenty  years  ago,  and  is  now  the  owner.  Everything  about  it  is 
in  accordance  with  the  beauty  and  magnificence  of  its  natural 
scenery  :  no  forced  ornaments  or  glaring  paint  jars  upon  the  feel* 


856 


A  rOREST    BWAMP 


ings  or  hurts  the  eye.  Here  is  a  kind  of  mesmeric  influence 
which  impresses  the  heart  unconsciously :  a  sincere  worshipper 
of  nature  is  at  once  assured  that  one  of  her  most  lovely  shrines 
cannot  Ise  desecrate(^  by  an  adoration  of  Mammon's  golden  idol. 
Mr.  Moore  is  worthy  of  Trenton  both  by  taste  and  education. 
This  name  Trenton  was  formerly  Oldenbarneveld :  one  regrets  it, 
although  originating  from  the  Hollanders,  not  the  Indian,  whose 
appropriate  appellation  was  '  Kangahoora '  (leaping  waters),  and 
he  called  the  river  Kanata  (Amber  II iver),  equally  descriptive; 
for  at  some  places  the  falls  resemble  liquid  amber,  and  occasion- 
ally the  tumbling  stream  appears  to  have  an  edging  of  gold. 
The  Governor  and  Mrs.  Seymour  first  took  me  to  see  it  from  tlio 
Forest-walk,  where  the  chasm  below  resembled  that  of  the  Tilt  at 
Blair  Athol,  only  filled  by  a  wider,  larger  river,  and  by  a  succes- 
sion of  higher  falls. 

After  dinner  Mr.  Moore  took  us  a  long  walk,  over  wall,  and 
fence,  to  see  a  railroad  in  process  of  formation,  by  the  aid  of  a 
very  powerful  and  ingenious  machine,  worked  by  steam.  The 
ground  it  is  excavating  is  a  hill  of  sand ;  an  immense  scoop, 
with  a  kind  of  trap-door  behind,  pokes  in  and  fills  itself,  and  then 
turns  quietly  and  majestically  round  alone  to  the  wagon  at  one 
side ;  the  scoop  then  opens  and  at  once  depi  sits  half  a  load,  while 
people  above  push  down  the  undermined  ground ;  at  this  rate  a 
mountain  rapidly  vanishes.  I  am  no  mechanic,  but  there  is  a 
simple  grandeur  in  these  evolutions  which  touched  me  considera- 
bly. I  have  always  felt  that  even  railroads  have  their  poetry, 
and  if  I  were  a  rhymer,  this  grand,  solemn  workman  would  set 
me  rhyming. 

In  our  way  back  Mr.  Moore  was  so  obliging  as  to  accede  to 
my  wish  that  he  would  take  me  into  a  forest  swamp,  to  see  the 
mocassin  flower  growing ;  as  we  had  to  go  down  a  steep  woody 
hill,  guided  by  a  man  living  near,  the  rest  of  the  party,  excepting 
cue  young  man,  deserted.  I  was  fully  repaid  for  a  rather  diflBcult 
scramble  by  finding  numbers  of  the  beautiful  pink  Gypripcilv.  i 
spectabile  (I  should  not  call  it  purple)  and  I.-lium  Canadense  by 
its  side.     The  latter  I  have  occasionally  seen  by  the  edges  of  rail 


THE   'boiling  pot,' 


367 


roade,  but  I  never  before  gathered  it.  The  pretty  little  -white 
anemone-like-lookiug  Dalibarda  repens  was  also  in  flower  all  over 
the  adjoining  banks. 

Next  morning  Mr.  Moore  took  charge  of  us  during  a  walk  to 
all  the  falls  along  the  edge  of  the  torrent ;  without  his  experi- 
enced guidance  I  should  have  been  afraid  to  undertake  this,  but 
as  the  water  was  high  enough  for  beauty,  and  not  too  high  for 
safety,  it  was  very  enjoyable.  I  sketched  the  three  principal 
cataracts.  It  will  not  do  to  compare  them  with  Niagara — it  is  an 
entirely  different  kind  of  thing ;  but  certainly  after  Niagara  I 
should  prefer  visiting  Trenton  to  any  other  water  scenery  in 
America.  Some  of  the  party  were  obliged  to  leave  us  at  one 
o'clock ;  but  Mrs.  Seymour  and  I  delayed  our  departure  till  five, 
and  remained  out  till  near  three. 

Within  the  spray  of  one  of  the  falls  I  discovered  a  small  fern 
(some  species  of  Pteris)  not  described  by  Gray,  and  I  cannot  help 
hoping  it  IS  altogether  new  to  botanists.  It  is  abc  it  the  size  of 
an  Asplenium  Ruta  Muraria,  but  a  bright  green,  and  +^  ^ronds 
soft,  not  shining,  and  not  crisp,  like  the  Pteris  crispa  Ye  re- 
turned to  Utica  in  the  evening,  and  yesterday  Governor  Seymour 
came  with  me  to  Albany.  I  now  write  again  from  the  Congress 
Hotel,  and  to-morrow  it  is  my  plan  to  go  over  to  visit  Mrs.  Ed- 
wards, at  Lenox,  Mass.  I  understand  it  is  a  pretty  place  among 
the  Berkshire  hills ;  from  thence  I  shall  go  on  to  spend  a  month 
among  my  Boston  friends,  and  there  I  shall  have  enough  to  do  to 
unpack  and  arrange  the  numerous  boxes  of  stones,  shells,  and 
plants,  I  have  at  different  times  forwarded  to  Mi        03's  care. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 

Albany,  July  11. 


P.  S. — In  coming  from  Utica  yeste~day  we  almost  followed 
:  ie  course  of  the  Mohawk  River,  and  came  through  several  places 
which  still  retain  the  Indian  names — Canajoharie  (the  *  boiline- 
pot')  from  a  spring  which  resembles  a  small  whirlpool,  and  Sche- 
nectady ('  the  end  of  the  pine  plain'). 


^>T.i 


mw 


LETTER  XXYHI. 


LxMOX,  BxBKsniRE  Hi^LS,  MABSAonroTm, ) 
July  18, 1866.  i 

My  dear  Friends, — 

This  place  differs  from  all  those  I  have  ofore  seen  iu  t'.^ 
United  States.  A  cottage  belonging  to  my  hosts  is  situated  on  a. 
eminence,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  valley ;  yet  th? 
Burrounding  country  is  hardly  a  vale.  It  is  a  depression  mado 
up  of  numberless  unequal  hills,  and  bounded  by  higher  irregular 
ones,  with  fine  mountains  showing  north  and  south,  at  a  distance 
of  about  twenty-live  or  thirty  miles.  Saddleback  to  the  north, 
emulates  Loch  na  Gai  •,  near  Balmoral,  in  form;  Washington 
southwa:  .43  is  its  twin  .uountaiu,  though  apparently  less  grand. 
About  a  mile  in  front  of  the  house  there  are  small  lakes,  bordered 
and  half  hid  l>y  woods  and  broken  ground.  At  present  no  offices 
or  interferiug  plantations  shut  out  the  pa^.orama,  and  its  effect 
upon  the  windows  and  lavn  is  almost  perfect — lather  Scotch  than 
Swiss  in  character ;  ^  it,  as  seen  from  the  house,  it  is  a  view  which 
embraces  a  wider  iri  mr  e  varied  extent  than  any  I  know  else- 
where as  c  home  pio;  pect.  Although  many  have  one  side  from 
which  a  still  greater  expanse  of  hills,  valleys,  and  lakes  may  be 
rieen,  I  am  not  acquainted  with  any  other  spot  which  has  such 
views  on  every  side.  Mrs.  and  Miss  Catharine  Sedgwick  live 
near  Lenox.  One  evening  we  drank  tea  with  them,  and  met  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  R.  P.  James.     Mrs.  Fanny  Kemble  has  a  cottage  near. 


A    SHAKER    VILLAGE. 


:■ 


-_ 


859 


Lake 


Authors  and  poets  seem  to  congregate  around  this,  the 
District '  of  the  United  States. 

Through  Miss  Sedgwick  I  got  some  Indian  names  of  places — 
names  that  are  now  fast  fading  out  of  memory;  but  she  has  res- 
cued these  from  the  talk  of  an  Indian  woman,  and  they  are  worth 
preservation.  A  river,  now  called  Housatonic,  flows  below  Lenox. 
This  is  a  corruption  of '  Awastonook '  (over  the  mountains).  The 
Indians  so  called  it  when  they  came  from  the  Hudson.  There  is 
a  spot  called  now  Elizabeth  Lot  (Elizabeth  is  *  Auchweem6e,'  the 
name  of  a  berry).  That  place  was  also  '  Nanwodtama '  (middle 
of  the  town).  lu  the  pronunciation,  the  first  syllable,  Auch, 
should  be  spoken  gutturally.  Kinkerpot,  a  small  lake  near,  has 
not  so  euphonious  a  sound  as  usual ;  it  was  '  Kinkapotamia ' 
(where  a  mare  was  drawn  out  of  the  water).  A  beautiful  meadow, 
where  maple  trees  grow,  bore  the  name  '  Hackpeehink '  (the  na- 
tion's sugar  place).  A  should  be  uttered  long  as  in  far;  the  ch 
gutturally ;  u  with  a  long  sound,  as  in  full.  '  Ilackpeehuckchoo ' 
(the  rising  mountain),  and  Scott's  Lake  between  Lenox  and  Lee, 
was  '  Natchovtashmuch '  (cutting  bulrushes).  '  The  rattlesnake 
mountain,'  *  Taheecannach,'  but  that  word  signifies  heart,  and  it 
was  for  some  reason  associated  with  the  affection  then  borne  by 
the  Indians  towards  the  white  race.  *  Cachcawalchook,'  one  of 
the  mountains  near  Stockbridge,  means  'crossing  the  mountains.' 
'  Massmasschaick,'  a  '  fish's  nest,'  is  now  Monument  Mountain. 
The  tribe  of  Indians  who  came  to  these  parts  from  the  North 
River  was  called  '  Mah<>ecanneek.'  '  Choc,'  or  '  Chook,'  means 
mountain.  '  Queecheeochook,'  '  mountain  river.'  '  Pahquinapack- 
kuch,'  '  dark  water.'  '  Pangqueseek,'  the  name  of  a  marsh  near 
this  place.  '  Washcuing '  and  '  Washen6e '  are  now  the  Salisbury 
Lakes. 

I  was  taken  to  visit  a  Shaker  village,  which,  perhaps,  from 
the  beauty  of  its  situation,  appeared  less  gloomy  than  the  estab- 
lishment I  saw  last  year  near  Albany.  But,  after  all,  these  places 
are  little  better  than  open  mad  houses.  The  inhabitants  generally 
look  ill  and  depressed.  One  pretty  rosy  little  girl  about  thirteen 
attracted  our  notice.     She  looked  quite  out  of  place,  but  for- 


Ml   i 
!  '1    I 


i    'I 


860 


CAMBRIDGE. 


m 


.  1% 


■i 


»'ii 


,m 


tunately,  as  Shakers  arc  not  bound  by  vows,  slie  may  be  freed 
Bome  of  these  days — aiul  inmates  often  do  grow  tired  of  such  a 
cold  formal  life,  and  make  oft".  Ouo  woman,  not  long  ago,  left 
this  village,  and  engaged  herself  in  one  of  the  most  noisy  factories 
she  could  tind.  I  suppose  the  contrast  was  agreeable.  Another 
day  I  went  to  see  what  is  called  the  Ice  Valley,  near  Stockbridgc. 
Heaps  of  massive  rocks  are  thrown  one  upon  another  in  a  narrow 
gorge,  to  which  the  sun  never  penetrates ;  and  in  some  deep  holes 
winter  snows  accumulate,  and  remain  unthawcd  through  the  hot- 
test summers.  Rambling  about  and  sketching  have  occupied  my 
time  during  a  pleasant  ten  days  passed  among  the  Berkshire  hills, 
so  journalizing  has  been  at  a  standstill. 

Cambridge,  near  Boston,  July  "23. — I  am  now  with  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Gray,  at  the  Botanic  Garden.  We  came  by  Springfield, 
through  which  town  the  Connecticut  flows,  a  fine  river.  The 
path  of  the  railroad  goes  through  a  mountainous  district  the  first 
fifty  miles. 

July  24. — I  went  to  the  cottage  of  my  friend,  Mr.  F ,  at 

Brookline  ;  and  I  was  surprised  to  find  it  rurally  situated,  among 
woods  and  hills,  equi-distant  from  the  villages  of  Brighton  and 
Brookline,  instead  of  being  in  a  flat  uninteresting  country. 

July  28. — I  took  the  railroad  five  miles  to  Boston,  and  saw 
Captain  Judkins,  who  this  time  has  brought  in  the  Canada, 
instead  of  Captain  Stone.  Captain  Judkins  was  sent  with  troops 
for  the  Crimea,  in  the  Arabia,  but  he  got  the  fever  and  was  in- 
valided home ;  Captain  Stone  replaced  him ;  and  on  Captain  Jud- 
kins's  recovery,  be  took  charge  of  the  Canada  till  the  large  new 
steamer,  Persia,  just  launched,  is  ready  for  sea.  I  have  engaged 
my  old  berth  for  the  last  week  in  October,  as  that  time  is  consi- 
dered favourable  for  making  the  voyage  home.  In  one  of  the  pa- 
pers I  see  that  a  Creole,  at  Havana,  has  been  thrown  into  prison 
on  suspicion  of  possessing  a  likeness  of  Ramon  Pinto.  Yesterday 
I  heard  another  anecdote,  illustrative  of  slavery  and  the  negro 
character.     My  informant,  who  was  lately  travelling  in  Virginia, 


«tmr«     €\r     U  ..  I  .A  li  ..  .. 

nuio  av  kjuiuiiux 


a : 


XllU 


iater 


Ul 


luu  iiuiui  uuu  a.  Clever 


active  black  waiter,  but  he  was  a  -  bad  boy.'     After  some  parti- 
cular act  of  misconduct,  the  master  called  up  his  slave  : 


WHITES  IN  THE  NO&THEBN   STATES. 


861 


au  a  cievor 


'  You  are  a  hopeless  rascal,  Horace ;  I  will  have  nothing  more 
to  do  with  you.  Here  are  some  dollars  and  your  papers  of  free* 
dom ;  go  off  into  Kentucky,  and  never  let  me  see  you  again.' 

*  Can't  possible,  massa ;  won't  go,  massa.' 

'  Won't  1  but  you  must !  you  are  quite  able  to  take  care  of 
four  self.' 

<  Sha'n't,  massa.  Fao  is,  can't  no  way  'gree  with  them  free 
niggers.' 

And  Horace  remained ;  his  owner  might  flog,  but  it  is  hardly 
possible  for  him  to  shake  off  a  servant  determined  not  to  go ; 
selling  is  the  only  way.  But  respectable  slaveowners  are  very 
adverse  to  this  mode  of  '  proceeding ;  and  it  is  not  easy  to  get  rid 
of  a  troublesome  negro.'  In  some  respects  the  masters  are  the 
slaves  of  their  servants,  who  often  dictate  instead  of  obeying.  I 
here  repeat,  what  probably  my  friends  in  England  will  be  slow  in 
believing,  that,  in  the  mass.  Southern  slaveowners  are  conscien- 
tiously fulfilling  their  trying  and  painful  duties ;  and  that  I  have 
seen  more  of  comfort,  cheerfulness,  contentment,  and  religious 
principle  among  negroes  of  the  Southern  States,  than  among  any 
other  working  population  of  the  same  amount,  either  here,  or  in 
England.  In  the  Northern  States  the  whites  have  great  physical 
and  mental  advantages ;  but  there  is  an  absence  of  true  content- 
ment among  them,  and  a  prevalence  of  insanity  sad  to  contem- 
plate. I  suppose  the  restlessness  consequent  upon  a  new  country 
and  Bepublican  institutions  does  not  tend  to  real  self-happiness. 
I  must  positively  assert,  that  the  countenances  and  manner  of 
Americans  as  a  nation,  do  not  express  contentment.  That  there 
may  be  heart-rending  abuses  in  the  South  I  do  not  deny, 
though  I  have  not  witnessed  them;  but  what  is  there  which  is 
not  liable  to  abuse  ?  I  could  tell  of  heart-rending  abuses  in  the 
North.  '  Offences  will  come,  but  woe  unto  them  by  whom  they 
come.'  No  one  can  doubt  that  the  change  of  the  education  and 
improvement  of  a  black  population,  through  slavery,  is  a  trying 
and  arduous  responsibility — a  task  for  which  pecuniary  advantages 
arc  a  poor  compensation,  and  one  which  is  not  often  repaid  by 
either  pecuniary  or  moral  profit ;  and  there  are  dangerous  and 
IG 


I'M 


l»l| 


362 


SLAVERY   AN   ORDINATION   OF   GOD. 


awful  temptations  aucompanying  it;  but  are  not  temptationi 
God's  discipline  for  life  ?  We  cannot  suppose  they  will  ever  bo 
removed  ;  but  we  must  take  care  they  '  bring  forth  fruit  in  due 
season.'  Personally,  with  all  my  love  of  freedom,  I  would  much 
prefer  to  be  a  slave  in  the  South  (not  in  Cuba),  than  one  of  those 
pariahs,  called  free  negroes  in  the  North. 

I  am  now  with  an  abolitionist  friend,  who,  like  most  aboli- 
tionists, has  never  visited  the  South.  We  can  therefore  sympa- 
thize only  in  a  wish  to  see  those  States  free  where  black  labour 
can  be  superseded  by  white — and  this  for  the  sake  of  the  white 
race  rather  than  the  black.  I  cannot  praise  those  Southerners 
who  keep  their  slaves,  all  the  while  maintaining  that  Slavery  is  a 
dark  spot,  to  be  washed  off  the  first  convenient  opportunity. 
Such  slaveowners  are  sinning  against  conscience ;  they  must  be- 
lieve in  slavery  as  one  of  the  means  by  which  it  pleases  the  Most 
High  to  discipline  the  white  and  the  black  for  higher  things ;  op 
they  must  at  any  cost  repudiate  Slavery  altogether.  Had  the 
civilized  world  united  to  regulate  instead  of  attempting  to  abol- 
ish, each  black,  as  he  gained  sufficient  knowledge,  habits  of  fore- 
thought, and  industry,  might  by  law  have  been  given  the  right  to 
purchase  his  own  freedom  at  a  certain  age,  and  such  negroes 
would  have  gone  back  to  Christianize  and  civilize  Africa.  But 
the  futile  endeavour  to  abolish,  instead  of  to  regulate,  has  resulted 
in  injury  instead  of  benefit  to  the  black  race ;  just  as  the  Maine 
Law  punishes  the  use,  rather  than  the  abuse,  of  spirituous  liquors. 
At  one  house,  the  house  too  of  a  f.rep.i  abolitionist  and  promoter 
of  the  Maine  Law,  I  met  with  *  tipsy-cake,'  and  saw  it  liberally 
bestowed  even  upon  children  1  So  we  may  eat  drink,  but  wo 
must  not  drink  drink  !     Is  not  this  humbug  ? 

August  6. — ^We  have  been  paying  a  very  agreeable  visit  at 
the  house  of  that  good  Mr.  Forbes,  who  headed  a  petition  to  hia 
Government,  and  commanded  ships  which  brought  out  American 
C'ontributions  of  food  to  the  starving  Irish.  This  was  indeed  a 
brotherly  act — a  grateful  acknowledgment  of  the  '  one  ancestry 
which  now  and  erer  should  be  a  bor  '  of  affection  between  our 


Awma^\jLtr  < 


o-nrl    tYiidiinflArafan^inflrfl 


t.W44>i* 


TRAVELLING-BAG    LIFE-PRESERVER. 


363 


may  have  arisen  in  past  times  to  separate  parent  and  children, 
the  '  war  hatchet '  is  now  for  ever  sunk  in  those  unfathomable 
ocean  depths  by  which  England  and  American  are  at  once  divided 
and  united. 

Milton  has  a  charming  vicinity  ,  fine  trees,  hedges,  and  even 
roads,  bordered  by  hedges,  from  which  hang  lovely  draperies  of 
sinnax  and  vines,  English  in  outline  if  not  in  detail.  The  village 
is  on  high  ground,  and  has  every  here  and  there  extensive  views, 
with  the  sea,  and  Boston,  and  Boston  Harbour — particularly 
from  the  granite  quarries  towards  the  blue  hills.  I  spent  a  whole 
morning  there,  with  an  American  friend  who  sympathized  in  the 
pleasures  of  sketching,  llattlesnakes  are  not  uncommon,  but 
that  reptile  is  fortun?itely  timid,  and  rarely  stings  ;  even  the  wo- 
men and  children  who  are  scattered  about  '  berrying ' — that  is, 
gathering  the  berries  of  a  productive  huckleberry  ( Vaccinium  or 
Galyussacia  resinosa).  Men  find  thick  leather  boots  or  gaiters 
quite  sufiicient  protection,  for  rattlesnakes  never  strike  high. 

We  passed  one  pleasant  day  on  the  sandy  sea  shore  above 
Nantasket  Kiver — a  pic-nic  party ;  and  there  I  saw,  as  last  year 
at  Newport,  young  ladies  and  gentlemen  dancing  among  the 
waves,  as  it  is  a  convenient  place  for  bathing.  Mr.  Forbes  went 
into  the  water  and  experimented  upon  his  travelling-bag,  life-pre- 
server— which  ho  thought  effectual  enough,  but  then  the  sea  was 
very  calm.  Many  vessels  dottod  the  ofiing.  A  sandy  bay  ex- 
tends five  miles  in  one  direction,  whilst  the  other  side  is  indented 
by  rocky  inlets.  Cape  Anne  clearly  visible  in  the  distance. 
Among  other  plants,  I  found  for  the  first  time  Lycopodium  ru- 
pestre. 

Brookline,  August  10. — Before  my  return  here,  I  spent  a 
morning  at  the  Botanic  Garden,  Cambridge,  with  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Gray,  to  meet  Miss  Morris,  a  botanical  lady  from  Philadelphia ; 
we  called  at  the  house  of  Professor  Agassiz,  but  he  was  decpl^f 
engaged  in  *  embryological  researches,'  at  Nahant.  From  Brook- 
line  I  went  to  the  Beverley  shove,  to  spend  a  few  days  with  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  L ,  under  whose  liospitablo  roof  I  met  with  my  first 

W(ilnn»v»o  fliia  ai/lo  i\f    flio    Aflnnfin     nnrl    T    ormfA  nncnif.  flinii'  r>»«nfft7 

place  last  year. 


864 


TIIE   WIBIt   MEN   Q^  THE   WEST. 


']!i**' 


4 " 


Providence,  Aitgnst  18. — I  came  hero  ou  the  14th,  for  the  meet, 
ing  of  the  American  Scioutilic  Association,  that  I  might  see  the 
wise  men  of  the  West  tiFsembled  together.  I  am  in  the  pleasant 
and  even  luxurious  abode  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  B.  Ives,  who  sent 
me  a  kind  invitation  through  Mr.  President  Wayland. 

August  If). — Wo  attended  the  morning  session;  that  day 
there  were  no  separate  sections.  Professor  Loiuax  (after  the 
Chairman,  Dr.  Ton-y,  had  opened  tlio  mooting)  read  a  paper  upon 
the  temperature  of  planetary  bodies,  and  of  the  space  through 
which  they  travel.  This  subject  raised  an  animated  and  interest- 
ing discussion,  which  was  carried  on  by  Agassiz,  Henry,  Bachc, 
Pierce,  llogers,  &c.  «&c.  The  question  about  a  lunar  atmosphere 
seenm  still  doubtful ;  one  astronomer  present  adduced  proofs  that 
signs  of  twilight  were  evident,  which  would  speak  to  the  fact  of 
an  atmosphere  for  the  moon.  (I  forgot  to  mention  that  I  pasecd 
a  delightful  day  with  Professor  and  Mrs.  Agassiz  at  Nabant,  and 
he  was  generous  enough  to  admit  the  value,  and  bo  pleased  with 
the  fossils  I  brought  from  Ocala  and  tho  Silver  Spri^i'j  ^^  the 
middle  of  Florida,  and  he  also  said  *.hat  the  existence  of  ci  otaceous 
tertiary  formations  there  had  not  before  been  aooertained.)  Dur- 
ing the  discussion  of  Professor  Lomax's  papers,  a  pretty  general 
agreement  appeared  to  bo  arrived  at ;  that  the  question  o''  temper- 
ature must  bo  so  dependent  upon  whatever  intei  nal  heat  the  sev- 
eral planetary  bodies  may  preserve  or  evolve,  that  any  calculatiou 
with  regard  to  tlieir  distances  from  tho  sun,  cannot  give  certainty 
about  their  individual  temperature.  But  Agassiz  expressed  a  de- 
cided opinion,  that  if  there  are  animal  organisms  inhabiting  tho 
planets,  they  must  be  constituted  in  a  manner  entirely  diflfercnt 
from  terrestrial  creatures ;  and  if  (as  I  think  Whowell  remarks) 
the  laws  of  fluids,  of  light  and  of  motion,  are  similar  in  the  earth 
and  the  other  bodies,  then  it  seems  a  fair  deduction  that  as  yet 
there  has  been  no  creation  of  life  in  worlds  incapable  of  support- 
ing such  life  as  wo  know  of.  Professor  Bache,  Director  of  tho 
General  Coast  Survey,  shov/ed  that  tho  commonly  received  notion 
of  the  existence  of  one  great  tidal  wave,  is  a  mistake.  He  stated, 
that  althougli  something  is  known  as  to  tho  direction  of  tidal  wavea 


FRO;£.EN   WELLB. 


365 


in  tho  Atlantic,  very  little  or  nothing  has  yet  been  ascertained 
respecting  those  of  the  Pacific.  President  "Way land  had  an  even- 
ing reception,  which  everybody  attended  ;  it  was  a  very  pleasant 
party. 

During  the  morning  session  of  August  10th,  Baehc  gacve  au 
account  of  a  great  earthquake  wave  on  the  western  coast  of  tho 
Pacific.  Professor  Brockleby  read  a  paper  upon  remarkable 
frozen  wells  near  Owego,  which  have  ice  during  the  hottest  sum- 
mers. Agassiz,  as  usual,  charmed  and  informed  every  one  by  his 
lucid  statement  of  some  zoological  facts,  and  Mr.  Blake  gave  us  a 
new  and  interesting  notice  upon  the  geology  of  California. 

In  the  evening  there  was  an  assembly  at  Mr.  Allen's,  where  I 
was  introduced  to  Miss  Maria  Mitchell,  the  American  Mrs.  Som- 
erville ;  she  is  as  simple  and  unassuming  in  manner  as  our  great 
astronomess. 

Friday. — Professor  Hall  explained  much  about  graptolites 
that  was  new  to  me ;  he  used  a  lady's  parasol  to  exemplify  the 
form  of  some  of  these  polypi,  and  Agassiz  following,  made  some 
of  his  lively,  instructive  remarks,  in  which  ho  amused  the  audience 
by  calling  the  parasol  '  this  tool ;'  he  showed  that  some  of  the  as- 
sociated polypi  are  probably  higher  in  the  scale  of  organization 
than  single  individuals.  A  terrific  gunpowder  explosion,  which 
occurred  at  Wilmington  s^nio  phort  time  ago,  by  the  blowing  up 
of  three  wagons  (which,  though  under  a  regulation  of  separate  de- 
parture, had  contrived  ^-^  travel  in  company),  afforded  opportunity 
for  another  lively  discussion,  which  explained  some  of  the  curious 
phenomena  observed  to  result  from  that  explosion ;  and  a  debate 
(also  conversational),  upon  Professor  Bache's  account  of  the  co-tidal 
lines  upon  the  Pacific  coast,  exemplified  how  naturally  each  branch 
of  science  dove-tails  into  all.  To  tho  zoologists  these  tides  '^ffer 
reasons,  which  partly  explain  the  geographical  distribution  of 
fishes.  To  the  mathematician  they  read  or  resolve  problenis  ;— 
whilst  they  also  aid  and  confirm  tho  observations  of  geology,  and 
thus  it  was  shown  how  the  cultivation  of  each  science  elucidates 
every  other  branch  of  knowledge.  As  to  the  mathematical  and 
optical  sections,  thev  were  beyond  my  comprehension,  and  I  there* 


li'i, 


I 

I'll'' 


'ir 


3G6 


ZODIACAL   LIGHT. 


fore  avoided  them  as  much  as  possible ;  but  in  doing  so,  I  missed 
hearing  Mr.  Jones's  observations  on  the  Zodiacal  Light,  which  I 
am  told  were  deeply  interesting.     From  two  hundred  and  fifty 
careful  observations,  he  decides  it  to  be  of  the  same  nature  as  the 
ring  of  Saturn ;  but  another  great  astronomer  asserted  that  Sat- 
urn's ring  is  gradually  approaching  the  body  of  the  planet,  and 
that  within  eighty  years  they  must  meet.     I  do  not  understand 
how  these  two  discoveries  are  to  be  reconciled.     During  the  sec- 
tion of  Natural  History  this  morning,  Professor  Agassiz  showed 
by  a  clear  chain  of  argument  and  deduction,  that  the  newly  dis- 
covered jaw  of  a  species  of  shark  brought  from  carboniferous  for- 
mation^ in  Western  America  (I  think  from  Wisconsin),  belongs  to 
the  sword-fish  division  of  that  family.     Professor  Henry  made  a 
useful  practical  statement,  respecting  the  best  mode  of  testing 
building  materials ;  he  mentioned  that  blocks  of  stone  coated  (or 
rather  divided  from  each  other)  by  plates  of  tin,  support  double 
the  weight  borne  by  those  which  have  lead  between  them,  because 
the  latter  substance  gives  way  to  pressure  much  more  easily  than 
tin.     Mr.  Blake  continued  his  observations  upon  the  geology  of 
California,  and  the  mountainous  ridges  along  the  western  coast, 
and  Professor  Hitchcock  exhibited  curious  drawings  from  the  foot 
impressions  of  a  most  extraordinay  four-toed,  two-legged  kind  of 
frog,  which  must  have  been  larger  than  the  largest  elephant  we 
know  of.     I  cannot  feel  sure  that  I  have  discovered  the  pith  of 
what  I  have  been  listening  to  these  last  three  days,  in  this  hasty 
sketch,  but  perhap?  it  may  enable  you  to  judge  that  a  great  deal 
of  information  was  elicited,  and  that  the  subjects  brought  forward 
were  by  no  means  dry  even  to  unscientific  hearers.     Saturday 
evening  I  went  to  a  party  at  Professor  Caswell's ;  and  yesterday 
I  visited  t^^e  President  and  Mrs.  Way  land. 

Last  night  a  gentleman  of  high  reputation  in  the  legal  profes- 
sion told  me  that  the  free  black  people  die  out  so  rapidly,  that, 
although  himself  a  man  only  in  middle  age,  he  remembers  when 
almost  every  servant  in  the  town  was  black  or  coloured,  yet  now 
few  of  that  race  are  left.  His  general  views  upon  the  subject  of 
slavery  were  in  perfect  accordance  with  those  observation  has  led 


WHEATLEY   LEAD   MINES. 


867 


•)  I  missed 
t,  which  I 
and  fifty 
;urc  as  the 
I  that  Sat- 
)lanet,  and 
understand 
>g  the  sec- 
iz  showed 
newly  dis- 
ferous  for- 
belongs  to 
ry  made  a 
of  testing 
coated  (or 
)rt  double 
11,  because 
asily  than 
eology  of 
ern  coast, 
n  the  foot 
d  kind  of 
Jphant  we 
le  pith  of 
;his  hasty 
;reat  deal 
b  forward 
Saturday 
resterduy 

il  profes- 
lly,  that, 
era  when 
yet  now 
ibjfcct  of 
I  has  led 


me  to  adopt ;  and  ho  thinks  that,  notwithstanding  the  eagerness 
and  activity  of  the  anti-slavery  party,  even  in  the  North,  a  ma- 
jority of  the  calm  and  unprejudiced  minds  would  coincide  in 
these  opinions ;  and  that  many  former  abolitionists  are  adopting 
them.     Dr.  Adams,  who  distinguishea  himself  on  'jhe  anti-slavery 
side,  after  a  visit  to  the  South  of  sufficient  investigation,  has  pub- 
lished a  pamphlet  recanting  former  opinions.    Judge  Wayne,  also, 
confirms  my   observations  respecting  the   strongly  aristocratic 
feeling  which  prevails  among  the  slaves.     They  consider  it  is 
losing  f^aste  to  connect  themselves  by  marriage  with  the  people 
■who  may  belong  to  masters  of  their  own  race,  or  even  with  those 
of  inferior  '  Buckras ;'   and  he  has  known  many  instances   of 
respectable  and  educated  blacks  (of  individuals  who  have  heen 
elevated,  not  degraded,  by  slave  institutions)  who  have  positively 
refused  offers  of  freedom ;  saying  they  did  ngt  want  to  leave  a 
country  the  laws  of  which  they  understood,  to  go  to  one,  where, 
perhaps,  they  may  find  tnoraselves  uncomfortable,  and  that  among 
whites  it  was  far  more  respec  table  for  them  to  have  a  master. 
This  I  am  inclined  to  believe  is  the  opinion  of  th3  best  informed 
and  moat  superior  among  the  black  men — of  course  there  will  be 
exceptions;  but  it  is  the  giddy  and  profligate  negro,  as  a  general 
rule,  who  seeks  freedom  by  running  away.     This  subject  is  so 
frequently  a  topic  of  conversation,  that,  as  long  as  I  remain  in 
America,  it  will  turn  up  in  every-day  remarks. 

Monday^  August  21,  was  occupied  by  papers  and  discussions 
upon  various  subjects.  Mr.  Lawrence  gave  a  lecture  on  minerals 
of  the  Wheatley  lead  mines,  and  the  method  of  analyzing  sul- 
phates, arsenates,  and  molybdates  of  lead.  The  llev.  Mr.  Brooks 
stated  a  large  number  of  facts,  showing  the  fatal  results  which 
have  followed  from  the  marriages  of  blood  relations.  This  brought 
up  Agassiz  upon  races — his  observations  were  very  curious  and 
striking.  Then  we  had  Mr.  Blake's  notes  upon  the  mammoth 
Red-wood  trees  {Sequoias)  of  Calaveros  county,  California ;  that 
tree  named  by  Lindley,  '  Wellingtonia,'  is  '.Iso  a  sequoia.  Dr. 
Torry  says.  Mr.  Blake  gave  me  a  specimen  of  thi^;  wood,  which, 
washed  over  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  a  solution  of  soda,  immedi- 


368 


MR.   ABBOTT  LAWRENCE. 


ately  became  so  dark  as  to  be  almost  ebony  like.  That  evening 
an  assembly  was  held  by  the  Mayor  of  Providence.  Mr.  Brown 
and  I  leave  for  New  York  this  morning,  the  21st ;  and  as  Agassiz 
and  many  others  of  the  scientific  body,  consider  it  their  duty  to 
attend  the  funeral  of  Mr.  Abbott  Lawrence  in  the  Auburn  Ceme< 
tery  to-morrow,  the  meeting  must  be  nearly  at  an  end.  Professor 
Baohe  and  others  offered  their  tribute  of  gratitude  yesterday  in 
eulogiums  upon  Mr.  Lawrence,  who  was  so  great  a  benefactor  to 
science  that  the  sincere  regrets  of  that  body  are  united  to  those 
of  all  other  classes  upon  his  death. 

New  York,  August  23. — I  got  to  the  St  Nicholas  Hotel 
after  a  pretty  but  dusty  journey  from  Providence.  General  Scott 
will  accompany  me  to  West  Point.  He  is  the  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  American  army — an  old  soldier,  six  feet  five  inches 
in  height,  who,  although  he  still  suffers  from  wounds  received  in 
warring  with  his  old  country  brethren,  does  not  belie  his  Scotch 
descent  either  in  appearance  or  feeling.  I  have  taken  rooms  at 
the  New  York  Hotel  for  the  27th,  to  be  near  the  place  where  the 
Educational  Convention  will  assemble, — the  same  Convention  I 
attended  at  Washington,  and  the  next  assembling  of  which  I  then 
promised  to  visit. 

West  Point,  August  25. — This,  indeed,  is  the  fineri  locality 
possible  for  a  military  school,  and  it  appears  to  bestow  buch  an 
education  as,  with  some  variation,  might  be  a  model  of  early 
training.  Five  years  is  the  usual  term,  and  seventeen,  or  at 
earliest  fifteen,  the  age  of  admission.  During  my  travels  in  the 
United  States,  whenever  I  have  fallen  in  with  a  young  man  who 
struck  me  as  superior  in  information,  and  even  in  manner,  I 
usually  found  he  had  been  a  Cadet  at  West  Point.  It  is  situated 
in  a  beautiful  highland  district  upon  the  banks  of  the  North 
Kiver.  At  present  the  summer  vacation  is  still  unooncluded,  and 
the  Cadets  who  do  not  take  advantage  of  it  are  encamped  in 
tents,  on  what  is  called  '  The  Plain,'  and  subject  to  complete 
military  rule.  Last  night  we  went  to  evening  parade.  There 
was  a  bright  moon  in  unison  with  a  glowing  sunset  as  we  left  the 
ground;  it  was  altogether  one  of  the  pretties w  and  most  cheerful 


PALACE   OF   THE   HILLS. 


a^ts 


scenes  I  have  witnessed  in  America,  where  one  great  lack  is  the 
absence  of  athletic  games  and  merry  out-of-door  amnsements  for 
the  people.  The  puritanical  leaven  has,  I  suppose,  checked 
everything  like  games,  and  this  may  be  one  reason  for  the  depres- 
sion and  melancholy  which  prevail  through  the  general  popula- 
tion There  appears  to  be  no  reasonable  medium  between  rowdy- 
ism and  gloom ;  and  so  even  fires  are  taken  advantage  of  by  the 
young  men  and  boys  to  get  at  something  like  a  *  lark.'  I  am 
going  on  to  the  Catskill  Mountains  to-morrow. 

Mountain  House,  CatskiU,  August  27. — This  hotel,  hung 
like  a  bird's  nest  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  North 
River,  at  the  distance  of  thirteen  miles,  is  placed  on  a  beautiful 
spot,  just  where  a  sunrise  can  be  seen  to  most  advantage ;  and  I 
am  so  fortunate  jis  to  have  a  room,  the  windows  of  which  look 
the  right  way ;  but  unfortunately  the  sun  rose  concealed  this 
morning — still  it  was  fine  to  see  the  clouds  chasing  each  other 
across  the  moss  below.  I  heard  a  lady  in  the  open  gallery  asking 
in  sober  earnest,  '  Is  the  sun  going  to  rise  this  morning  ?  '  He 
was  certainly  up,  though  not  visible ;  and  the  valley  was  soon 
also  entirely  concealed.  I  went  out  by  six  o'clock,  and  had  a 
pleasant  scramble  on  one  of  the  mountairs  above  till  heavy  rain 
came  on;  but  before  seven  it  poured.  We  came  up  the  river 
from  "West  Point  yesterday  in  a  steamer  going  over  to  Albany. 
I  was  surprised  to  find  the  distance  fifty  miles — charming  scenery 
all  the  way :  in  some  places  the  Hudson  is  as  wide  as  Winder- 
mere Lake,  and  I  could  have  believed  myself  there ;  and  some- 
times this  river  may  be  compared  to  the  Rhine ;  but  it  more  fre- 
quently resembles  a  chain  of  lakes.  There  is  a  good  carriage 
road  all  the  way  to  this  place ;  though  the  ascent  is  very  steep, 
we  mounted  it  in  four-horse  coaches.  I  walked  with  some  ac- 
quaintances the  last  three  miles,  and  came  through  the  scene  of 
Rip  van  Winkle's  adventures.  How  the  materials  for  building 
this  great  Palace  of  the  Hills  were  ever  dragged  up,  I  cannot 
imagine.  It  was  a  noble  thought  to  plant  it  here,  where  thou- 
sands, if  not  millions,  of  human  being!^  will,  in  the  course  of  time, 
find  enjoyment,  and  may  regain  that  health  and  those  spirits  which 
16* 


•!!m 


i'.i'iin 


t  V 


370 


CUATSKILL   WATERFALL. 


'!i 


ii- 


have  perhaps  hcen  lost  in  the  turmoil  below.  Fresh  cool  air  maj 
always  be  found  here,  I  am  told,  even  during  the  hottest  summer; 
and  one  feels  as  if  beyond,  as  well  as  above,  sublunary  things. 
There  is  no  church  within  reach,  but  being  Sunday  morning,  ser. 
vice  was  read  by  a  minister  in  the  house. 

After  dinner,  I  walked  with  some  friends  to  see  the  highest 
waterfall  I  ever  heard  of,  called  *  Cuatskill,'  which  is,  I  suppose, 
the  same  as  Catskill.  The  word  '  skill '  or  *  gill '  originates  in  a 
Dutch  name  ;  and  Clove  (as  they  here  call  a  pass  beyond)  I  have 
little  doubt,  has  its  origin  in  '  Kloof.'  The  '  Cuatskill'  pours 
down  its  stream  two  hundred  feet  into  a  deep  rocky  dell.  It  is  a 
much  higher  fall  than  the  Staubach,  in  Switzerland,  and  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  is  as  picturesque,  though  without  the  high 
Swiss  mountains.  The  water  makes  another  leap  of  eighty  feet  a 
little  farther  on. 

Monday  morning,  I  again  went  out  before  sunrise,  and  again 

no  sun  was  visible.     At  six  o'clock,  the  clergyman,  Mr.  W , 

accompanied  me  to  see  fine  masses  of  conglomerate  rook  upon  the 
Southern  Mountain  beyond  our  hotel,  and  at  seven  we  took  our 
departure  through  a  deep  pass,  resembling  some  of  those  in  our 
Highlands  of  Scotland.  By  a  circuitous  route,  the  plain  below 
our  hotel  was  reached,  and  the  house  was  seen  upon  the  edge  of 
the  precipice  above  us.  A  ferry-boat  made  its  passage  from  the 
small  town  of  Catskill  across  the  North  River,  to  meet  the  cars 
from  Albany,  which  conveyed  our  party  to  New  York. 

August  28. — I  attended  the  Educational  Convention,  where 
an  excellent  farewell  address  was  delivered  by  Bache,  the  retiring 
President.  He  dwelt  forcibly  upon  the  great  existing  necessity 
for  universities — not  mere  buildings  of  stone,  or  schools  for  youth 
— but  assemblages  of  learned  men — cosmopolitan  institutions; 
places  where  men  not  leaned  may  become  so ;  places  where  real 
talent  may  be  fostered,  and  where  scientific  information  can  be 
found  by  all  who  earnestly  and  diligently  seek  it, — centres  from 
which  all  knowledge,  theological,  mathematical,  historical,  scien- 
tific, &c.  »fec.,  may  radiate  to  the  remotest  corners  of  this  vast 
country,  and  imbue  the  hearts  and  minds  of  the  great  Americap 


EDUCATIONAL   CONVENTION. 


871 


people  T'*i  something  which  shall  direct  and  balance  the  influ< 
ence  of  tiic  almighty  dollar.  The  Bishopof  Pennsylvania  joined 
the  evening  exercise,  when  a  paper  was  read  by  Professor  Tap* 
pan,  of  Michigan,  on  the  *  Relation  of  Common  Schools  and 
Colleges.' 

Wednesday^  August  29. — An  excellent  lecture  was  given  by 
the  Rev.  E.  B.  Huntingdon,  principal  of  the  public  school,  Stam- 
ford, Connecticut,  on  '  Mental  and  Physical  Activity.'  In  the 
evening  the  Rev.  F.  B.  Huntingdon,  Professor  of  Moral  Philoso- 
phy at  Cambridge  University,  made  a  most  original  and  striking 
address  on  '  Unconscious  Tuition ; '  fine  in  language,  attractive  in 
delivery,  and  very  practical  in  matter,  although  permeated 
throughout  by  poetical  feeling.  He  touched  even  upon  the  ill 
ejQFects  of  the  want  of  refined  habits,  and  the  absence  of  gentle- 
manly bearing,  in  those  who  instruct,  and  forcibly  pointed  out 
how  ugly  tricks  and  coarse  manners  corrupt  and  debase  the  young 
placed  under  their  influence.  He  said — '  The  teacher  who  aits  in 
his  chair  with  feet  placed  higher  than  his  head,  who  munches  ap- 
ples and  nuts  like  a  monkey,  and  even  sends  forth  American 
saliva — like  a  member  of  Congress !  in  all  these  acts  is  uncon- 
sciously losing  the  respec  •  of  his  pupils,  and  exercising  an  evil  in- 
fluence over  their  charai  jr.'  How  true  it  is,  that  the  most  elo- 
quent and  accomplished  orator  has  little  permanent  influence  when 
we  feel,  perhaps  without  being  able  to  explain,  the  effiects  of  a 
screw  loose  in  his  moral  character ;  perhaps  there  is  selfishness, 
an  absence  of  honesty,  a  seeking  for  applause,  a  something  we 
know  not  what — we  have  never  been  told ;  but  unconsciously, 
while  we  admire  the  talents  of  the  orator,  we  refuse  him  our  sym- 
pathy. Unconsciously  his  character  tells  upon  our  minds — ^he  is 
no  thorough  man,  and  we  feel  it. 

Thursday,  August  ^0. — After  attending  the  Educational 
Meeting  in  the  morning,  I  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  with  a  party 
of  friends  on  Staten  Island.  It  reminds  me  of  the  Isle  of  Wight, 
but  New  York  and  North  River,  with  their  innumerable  bays  and 
creeks  and  islands,  form  a  more  varied  and  beautiful  scene  than 
the  Southampton,  '-y.     r,  and  the  coast  of  Hampshire.    It  requires 


'!  [. 


872 


BART    mVER. 


1  >i 


ill'': 


iiji 


fMi 


[fl'!' 


\m^ 


hulf  an  hour  to  cross  over  by  steam ;  thv  md  itself  is  pictur- 
esque, and  well-wooded  :  there  is  a  particularly  pretty  view  from 
a  villa  belonging  to  Mr.  Cunard.  Staaten  is  sixteen  miles  in 
length.  I  have  at  last  found,  in  one  of  the  State  reports  from 
Texas,  some  mention  of  'horned  frogs'  (Phrysonomas),  there  are 
two  or  three  species  to  be  found  in  Texas  and  Mexico  ;  mine  was 
Phrysonoma  comuta.  The  Phrysonomas  are  true  saurians ;  their 
bodies,  instead  of  being  smooth  like  frogs  and  toads,  are  covered 
with  scales ;  they  never  hon  or  leap  as  batrachians,  but  run  very 
fast  like  spiders.  Their  upper  spines  are  as  large  as  miniature 
horns  of  a  gazelle.  (I  saw  at  Providencf"  a  little  stuffed  deer 
from  Japan,  not  much  larger  than  a  kitten,  und  with  horns  hardly 
more  considerable  than  those  of  a  Phrysonoma.)  They  are  sin- 
gular creatures,  and  give  one  the  idea  of  being  stragglers  left 
behind  by  one  of  the  extinct  races ;  the  surface  of  their  bodies  is 
covered  with  scales,  and  there  is  a  double  abdominal  row,  quit€ 
prickly. 

Au'just  31. — The  Canada  has  brought  favourable  news  from 
E'lg-iiD^',  which  I  am  inclined  to  believe  will  be  received  with  satis- 
iiteiioii  by  the  best  minds  in  the  United  States,  for  Russo  tenden- 
cies lio  merely  on  the  surface.  Some  of  my  friends  went  away 
early,  and  I  only  attended  the  Convention  to  hear  Professor 
Barnard,  of  the  Mississippi  University,  upon  the  improvements 
that  may  be  introduced  into  American  colleges. 

During  my  stay  in  New  York,  I  have  taken  one  trip  of  fifty 
miles  down  what  is  called  the  East  River.  It  is  rather  a  narrow 
arm  of  the  sea,  extending  above  a  hundred  miles  forming  Long 
Island  :  it  passes  with  a  rapid  current  through  the  narrow  passage 
called  Hellgate,  where  once  an  English  ship  was  wrecked.  The 
river  is  there  divided  by  Randall  Island,  which  I  last  year  visited 
with  Governor  Seymour  to  see  all  the  penitentiaries  and  charitable 
institutions. 

September  Zrd. — I  spent  some  time  in  the  Astor  Library,  where 
I  looked  over  some  of  Agassiz'  publications,  and  the  beautiful  Zoo- 
logical work  of  Dana.  In  the  evening  a  friend  took  me  to  see  Ra- 
chel's first  American  appearance  as  Camille.    Seventeen  years  ago, 


ilt,imm.i^    jB 


AMERICAN    CRYSTAL   PALACE. 


3'.  3 


III 


I  witnessed  her  London  dibut  in  the  same  character.  I  think  hsr 
experience,  and  a  longer  cultivati'  of  art,  do  not  improve  upon 
the  first  and  natural  express! ou  of  gonius.  She  is  more  cultivated, 
but  she  cannot  tonch  the  heart  uow  as  she  touched  the  hearts  in 
the  year  1838.     She  sva        11  rect  'ved  by  a  crowded  house,  and 


the  little  Gomedie  of  Le   ± 
well  acted ;  three  sistc 
characters. 

September  Hh. — I  viait. 
Palace  to  see  pare  of  a  Cai 


le  i  Homme,  by  Premanoy,  was 
ijel's  performing  all  the  female 


remains  of  the  American  Crystal 
uuian  mammoth  tree  (Red-wood), 
described  by  Mr.  Blake  at  Providence.  The  grandeur  and  sin- 
gularity of  this  trunk  surpassed  my  expectations,  the  trees  must 
appear  as  much  larger  than  cedars,  as  cedars  exceed  hawthorns  in 
size.  Some  articles  still  remain  in  this  Crystal  Palace,  which  is 
now  the  property  of  Barnum ;  the  building  itself,  though  so  much 
smaller  than  Paxton's,  is  less  simple  in  ornament,  and  loses  in 
effect  from  being  too  elaborate.  I  intend  to  proceed  to-morrow 
in  the  direction  of  Lake  George  and  Ticonderoga :  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood I  am  to  be  joined  by  Governor  Seymour,  who  promitos 
to  guide  me  through  part  of  the  Adirondack,  that  Highland  dis- 
trict of  New  York  State,  still  a  wild  forest,  although  it  is  as  ex- 
tensive as  the  whole  State  of  Massachusetts.  It  is  principally 
frequented  by  sportsmen  for  the  sake  of  the  game  and  fish,  which 
have  been  as  yet  but  little  disturbed.  When  we  were  at  Ogdens- 
burgh  we  almost  touched  that  territory,  which  is  partly  bounded 
by  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  streets  of  New  York  are  much  shaded 
in  some  places  by  Ailanthus  glandulosa,  and  as  most  of  them  are 
now  flowering,  or  producing  their  key-like  tassels,  they  look  very 
pretty.  I  have  not  detected  the  disagreeable  odour  which  they 
are  accused  of  emitting,  nor  have  I  heard  of  any  poisonous  in- 
fluence from  them,  but  perhaps  something  of  that  kind  may  be 
discovered  later  in  the  season.  This  letter  shall  be  sent  from  here 
by  post  now ;  perhaps  the  beauties  of  Lake  George  may  induce 

me  to  begin  another. 

Yours  a  Tcctionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  US80 

(716)  873-4503 


LETTER  XXIX. 


Sabatooa,  N.  T.,  \ 
S^teniber  0,  1869.) 

My  dear  Friends, — 

I  did  not  imagine  that  my  next  letter  would  date  from 
this  place,  but  imperative  circumstances  determined  that  it  should 
be  BO.  We  left  New  York  by  six  o'clock  this  morning,  under  tlio 
supposition  that  we  were  to  reach  La^ie  George  before  night ;  but 
though  we  were  at  Troy  at  eleven,  all  calculation  was  thrown  out 
by  information  that  no  train  could  take  us  on  till  six ;  we  were 
not  told  that  by  going  back  to  Albany,  another  line  might  for* 
ward  us  sooner ;  this  one  had  been  impeded  by  an  incendiary, 
who  had  fired  a  railroad-bridge,  about  twenty  miles  from  this 
place.  Having  once  btfort  visited  Troy  and  made  acquaintances 
there,  I  walked  into  the  town.  All  the  families  I  knew  were 
still  away  on  summer  tours,  a  custom  nearly  universal  here  in 
cities ;  people  having  usually  no  country  places,  take  to  the  coun- 
try at  large.  However,  I  was  so  fortuni^te  as  to  find  some  friends 
accidentally  at  Troy,  who  afforded  me  shelter,  a  warm  bath,  and 
some  dinner,  and  kindly  walked  back  with  me  to  the  station  at 
the  hour  of  departure.  Precisely  at  six,  the  train  left  Troy,  but 
the  one  hour  (usually  time  enough  for  reaching  Saratoga)  was 
lengthened  into  three ;  for  at  the  river,  which  wr '^  to  be  crossed, 
passengers,  luggage,  and  all,  had  to  be  transferred  into  a  largo 
ferry-boat ;  and  it  was  necessary  to  carry  weighty  boxes  up  the 
steep  bank  of  our  railway  track  on  the  opposite  side — a  slow  pro- 
cess.    So  we  had  two  hours  of  travel  after  dark  :  and  I  at  uucc 


SARATOGA. 


876 


determined  to  sleep  at  the  United  States  Hotel,  at  Saratoga. 
Spiteful  mischief  is  too  often  perpetrated  on  the  railroad  tracks. 
Last  year  a  train  of  cars,  upon  which  I  went  in  the  night  from 
Niagar**  'o  Canandaigua,  was  thrown  oflf  by  the  abstraction  of  a 
few  feet  of  rail ;  and  the  other  day  several  lives  were  sacrificed 
by  the  same  thing  having  been  done.  I  have  heard  lately  of  two 
other  bridges  having  been  intentionally  set  on  fire ;  and  these 
fiendish  acts  are  rarely  followed  by  detection.  What  can  be  too 
bad  for  wretches  wbo  thus  unmercifully  destroy  unoffending  peo- 
ple, out  of  some  feeling  of  individual  spite  !  But  we  may  be  sure 
that  fear  and  remorse  will  ultimately  persecute  and  haunt  such 
men,  until  they  yearn  to  end  their  miserable  lives  by  that  rope 
they  may  for  the  present  escape. 

Saratoga,  Tuesday  morning. — It  is  as  well  that  I  have  been 
obliged  to  stop  at  this  place,  so  much  spoken  of,  though  watering- 
places  afibrd  small  attraction  to  me.  Upon  getting  up  this  morn- 
ing, however,  I  can  see  nothing  from  windows  looking  in  two 
directions,  but  one  maple  tree  imprisoned  in  a  small  court ;  and 
young  maples,  set  as  thick  as  pines,  edging  angular  walks,  and 
dotting  some  green  and  well-shaven  turf,  in  a  square  enclosed  on 
three  sides  by  this  hotel.  The  air  feels  cold  and  October-like. 
I  think  thermometers  range  more  widely  and  vary  more  sudden- 
ly than  in  England :  one  very  cold  day  succeeds  an  intensely  hot 
one ;  and  then,  perhaps,  we  have  two  bot  ones  again ;  and  the 
nights  are  usually  cold  at  this  time  ft  the  year;  sometimes* even 
frosty.  I  already  see  a  brilliant  colouring  of  foliage,  which  shows 
the  leaves  have  been  touched  by  frost. 

Lake  George,  September  6. — I  left  Saratoga  by  the  early 
train ;  one  hour's  morning  walk  being  enough  to  give  me  some 
idea  of  a  place  which  is  a  ruralized  Baden-Baden,  or  Homburg, 
or  Schwalbad,  or  any  other  had — I  dare  say  a  pleasant  resort  for 
people  who  seek  only  fresh  air  and  disagreeable  water,  and  num- 
berless acquaintaDces.  It  resembles  German  baths,  with  rather 
less  gnmbling,  more  dancing,  and  more  dressing ;  and  I  was  de 
lighted  to  get  away  from  such  annoyances,  to  this  charming  lake, 
and  to  find  myself  in  an  hotel  quite  homelike.     A  coach  brought 


376 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


US  the  last  fourteen  miles;  we  came  by  Glen's  Falls,  where  th« 
water  rushes  iSnely,  in  spite   of  lumber  and  saw-mills,  down  a 
descent  of  seventy  or  eighty  feet ;  then  we  passed  a  place  called 
'  Bloody  Pond,'  the  battle  of  Lake  George  having  been  fought 
near,  in  1755.     You  may  remember,  this  engagement  was  between 
Sir  W.  Johnson,  aided  by  Hendrick,  the  Mohawk  chief,  and  the 
French  general  Dieskau,  with  his  Canadian  Indians.     Now  we  are 
among  the  very  scenes  depicted  in  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans. 
Cooper  calls  this  lovely  lake,   Horican  (Transparent  Water) ; 
I  believe  he  confessed  it  was  a  supposititious  Indian  name ;  but  I 
cannot  find  out  any  other  given  to  it  by  the  Aborigines.     The 
French  appellation  was  St.  Sacrament ;  that  of  the  English,  Lake 
George  ;  and  both  historical  and  local  associations  now  confirm  it. 
I  am  at  an  original  hotel,  called  a  Lake  House ;  much  pleas- 
anter  and  less  staring  than  a  new  place,  built  in  a  beautiful  situa- 
tion at  the  southern  end,  '  The  William  Henry  Hotel.'     Here  I 
do  not  feel  as  if  I  was  at  a  place  of  public  resort,  though  the 
house  contains  a  large  number  of  guests.     It  has  easy  access  to 
the  water  from  a  lawn,  for  bathing,  fishing,  or  boating,  and  bowl- 
ing and  billiards  may  be  enjoyed  by  those  who  wish  for  them.     I 
find  pleasant  families  here  who  do  not        :e  gay  attire  and  good 
dinners  the  first  objects  of  life.     Ho^c.-u  (Transparent  Water), 
'  that  was  a  characteristic  name  I     Lake  George  unites  the  beau- 
ties of  Loch  Lomond,  Windermere,  and  Wenham  '  Pond ; '  and  is 
as  beautiful  as  any  lake  I  know,  excepting  that  its  mountains, 
though  fine,  are  not  so  rugged  as  some  of  our  Highlands.     It  is 
wide  enough,  without  the  shores  being  too  distant  from  each  other; 
the  water  has,  in  many  places,  a  depth  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet.     It  empties  itself  into  Lake  Champlain,  near  Tioonderoga ; 
so  called  from  Checonderoga,  an  Iroquois  word,  signifying  '  sound- 
ing waters,'  on  account  of  the  noise  made  by  the  water  rushing 
from  Lake  George.     The  Last  of  the  Mohicans  has  made  this 
neighbourhood  doubly  interesting.     Yesterday  we  had  a  gay  and 
touching  celebration  of  the  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  victory 
gained  by  the  British  and  Americans  over  the  French,  in  Septem- 
ber, 1755.    My  own  maternal  grandfather  led  his  Highland  regi- 


TIOONDEROOA. 


877 


ment  daring  the  conflict  of  those  days ;  and  this  commemoration 
was  one  which  enlisted  my  sympathies..  Gentlemen  and  ladies 
walked  in  two  separate  processions  to  the  church,  where,  after  a 
short  prayer  Dr.  Van  Benssalaer  gave  a  detailed  historical  account 
of  the  events  of  1755,  and  the  years  succeeding.  After  firing  ofi 
cannon,  there  was  a  beautiful  array  of  boats,  decorated  with  flags ; 
most  of  them  had  only  one  lady  in  the  stem ;  mine  carried  the 
English  ensign.  Mrs.  Potter  had  the  Scotch  thistle.  English 
and  French  flags  waved  in  union  on  this  occasion,  and  the  band 
played  Ood  save  the  Queen,  with  other  airs.  There  were  about 
twenty-four  boats  marshalled  in  line  upon  the  lake,  or  sweeping 
along  in  succession,  at  the  command  of  a  Commodore.  The  scene 
was  very  gay  upon  the  beautiful  waters ;  and,  when  night  came 
on,  the  darkness  was  illuminated  by  a  liberal  display  of  rockets 
and  Boman  candles.  A  sub&cription  was  proposed  for  raising  a 
monument  on  the  old  battle-field  to  the  heroes  who  fell  there, 
particularly  the  gallant  Indian  chief,  Hendrick ;  and  I  hope  the 
object  will  be  accomplished. 

September  10. — I  went  with  a  party  in  a  steamer  twenty 
miles  up  the  lake  to  Ticonderoga,  which  is  a  small  town  on  the 
Lake  George  side  of  the  fort.  There  are  still  ditches  and  fortifi- 
cations which  mark  the  battle-field.  Sixteen  hundred  British 
were  killed  in  that  engagement.*  The  fort  is  situated  on  a  pen- 
insula, which  runs  into  Lake  Ghamplain :  it  is  a  beautiful  site, 
commanded  by  a  mountain  which  has  been  named  Defiance.  The 
rest  of  our  party  went  to  dine  at  an  hotel  near,  but  I  remained 
for  two  or  three  hours,  sketching  and  wandering  about  the  fortifi- 
cations, which  are  very  extensive.  This  is  the  only  interesting 
ruin  I  have  seen  in  America. 

September  12. — Yesterday,  in  my  way  here,  I  stopped  for  an 
hour  or  two  at  the  hotel  to  wait  for  a  steamer.  The  landlord 
took  so  great  an  interest  in  a  sketch  of  the  fort,  which  I  made 
from  a  window  in  his  house,  that  he  would  not  hear  of  my  paying 


*  The  French  entangled  them  among  the  branches  of  felled  treei,  so  that 
their  forces  were  scattered  and  destroyed. 


878 


OIP8Y   EXPEDITION. 


either  for  my  own  dinner  or  R 's ;  the  only  repayment  n« 

would  accept  was  a  hasty  copy  of  my  drawing. 

At  Westport  I  was  fortunate  in  finding  Mr.  H.  L ,  who 

drove  me  up  to  see  his  pretty  cottage,  situated  upon  a  rock  which 
commands  a  splendid  view.  While  I  was  absent  this  morning, 
Governor  Seymour  arrived  with  his  niece,  and  he  has  gone  on  to 
Elizabeth  Town,  to  make  necessary  arrangements  for  our  camping 
out  of  town  in  the  Adirondack.  Wo  are  to  join  him  at  an  early 
hour  to-morrow  morning.  Weather  promises  to  be  favourable, 
and  the  black  fly  has  vanished,  so  that  wo  have  every  prospect 
of  enjoying  our  gipsy  expedition. 

September  12. — We  started  before  six  o'clock,  and  joined  Mr. 
Seymour  at  Elizabeth  Town.     We  met  Professor  Baird,  who  is 

staying  there,  and  Mr.  H ,  one  of  our  compagnons  de  voyage. 

We  set  ofif  after  making  backwood  arrangements,  and  selecting 
kettles  and  pans.  Tea,  biscuits,  lemons,  portable  soup,  and  ar- 
row-root went  into  small  space ;  these,  with  trout  and  venison, 
will  feed  us  nobly  for  a  week.  Branches  of  the  hemlock  spruce 
with  waterproof  coverings,  duvets,  blankets,  and  air-cushions  will 
form  our  couches ;  and  our  Governor  carries  a  tent  in  case  of  wet 
weather.  We  reached  the  Sararao  Lake  about  an  hour  after 
dark,  conveyed  by  buck-boards  and  wagons — much  too  civilized  a 
mode  of  proceeding ;  but  we  go  on  in  boats  or  on  foot,  and  hope 
to  travel  more  than  a  hundred  miles  with  packs  on  our  backs  and 
staffs  in  our  hands — this  will  be  delightful  1  On  our  way  yester- 
day, we  passed  through  fine  passes  and  grand  mountains.  I  made 
one  sketch  in  which  Tahawas  '  the  cloud  splitter,'  was  included. 
We  thought  ourselves  unhappy  at  sleeping  in  the  little  Saranao 
hotel  last  night,  though  it  was  three  in  a  room,  constructed  of 
rough  boards  and  laths ;  still  this  will  be  the  last  time  for  some 
days  we  shall  have  any  other  canopy  than  heaven,  and  the  small 
tent  which  is  to  be  carried  with  us.  Our  drive  from  Elizabeth 
Town  to  this  place  was  about  thirty-two  miles ;  the  road  rough, 
but  practicable  by  walking  up  the  steepest  parts.  In  our  way 
we  picked  a  variety  of  wild  fruits,  blackberries,  huckleberries, 
cherries,  and  above  all,  a  little  red  plum,  which  though  rather 


SARANAC   LAKE. 


879 


hard  and  acid,  I  thought  would  make  a  good  pudding  at  our 
hrst  oamp  in  tho  woods ;  so  I  got  enough  for  that  purpose.  It 
was  quite  dark  for  an  hour  before  we  reached  Baker's — the  name 
by  which  this  last  house  of  reception  on  the  Saranao  Biver  is 
known.  We  had  no  other  difGculty,  however,  than  making  our 
way  once  nearly  into  a  shed,  instead  of  following  the  road,  and 
after  backing  out,  our  proposed  resting-place  was  soon  reached. 

While  the  party  were  putting  up,  I  parted  with  R ,  and 

sent  her  back  in  the  carriage  to  embark  again  in  the  steamboat 
to  Westport.  She  will  go  round  by  Utica  to  Canandaigua,  to 
give  Mrs.  Seymour  a  report  of  us  so  far ;  and  I  shall  pick  her  up 
again  at  the  latter  place,  where  she  will  remain  with  our  hospitable 

friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G .   Miss  M and  Mr.  S walked 

on  a  mile  or  two  to  tho  lake  side,  and  left  Mr.  H and  one 

guide  to  accompany  me,  after  I  had  made  a  sketch  of  tho  place 
and  surrounding  mountains  from  a  hill  above.  On  the  edge  of 
Saranao  Lake  wo  found  a  small  house,  three  boats,  and  various 
articles  prepared  for  forest  expeditions.  One  boat  was  set  apart 
for  two  dogs,  guns,  and  baggage,  taken  care  of  by  one  Jamie 
M'Cleland,  who  had  enough  of  Scotch  recollections  to  induce  him 
to  look  with  a  pleased  expression  at  one  of  my  name. 

Mr.  Moody,  the  head  guide,  rowed  the  boat,  in  which  I  had  a 
comfortable  seat  of  cloaks  and  cushions,  with  the  Governor.     Miss 

M ,  his  niece,  and  Mr.  H ,  were  conducted  by  a  fine 

youth  of  nineteen,  who  goes  by  the  name  of  *  Prince  Albert,'  and 
it  is  believed  ho  was  so  christened  at  two  years  old,  though  he 
looked  shy  and  annoyed  when  asked  about  it,  and  said  he  believed 
it  was  *  Pliny  Albert.'  The  weather  was  perfect,  as  we  rowed 
along  the  beautiful  Saranao  Lake.  For  the  first  time  I  saw  the 
Loon,  and  heard  it  utter  its  wild  cry,  more  resembling  a  mockicg 
laugh  than  anything  else.  I  couM  have  fancied  it  saying, '  You 
intruders,  you — you  will  have  enough  of  me  before  you  have 
done.'     A  fine  eagle  next  soared  over  our  heads,  and  ravens  also. 

Wo  floated  on  water  as  smooth  as  glass,  passing  by  lovely 
Islands  and  fine  rocks,  until  we  came  to  the  first  rapid,  an  inlet 
into  the  next  lake,  where  we  disembarked,  that  the  men  might 


i 


liJI 


8{t0 


OUK   FIRST   ENCAMPMENT. 


carry  and  push  through  their  boats.     I  sketched  during  this  opera* 

tion,  while  Mr.  S mended  the  slight  terminal  pole  of  his 

fishing-rod,  which  an  accident  had  broken ;  then  we  proceeded  to 
^a  small  *  round  lake,'  prettily  set  among  the  mountains,  but  very 
shallow,  the  rushes  and  Lilypods  growing  plentifally  over  ii 
Now  we  had  a  portage.  Each  man  carried  a  boat  on  his  head, 
and  we  loaded  ourselves  with  as  much  as  we  could  carry.  M-  « 
and  I  filled  my  Scotch  plaid  with  baskets  and  bundles,  and  we  bore 
it  between  us.  The  distance  was  short,  but  it  was  above  an  hour 
before  we  were  again  afloat  in  the  Upper  Saranac,  at  the  end  of 
which  our  first  encampment  was  to  be  made.  Upon  landing,  we 
chose  a  pretty  spot ;  the  guides  hastily  built  up  a  great  log  fire. 
I  gathered  up  some  brush  and  fir-cones  to  help  the  blaze,  and  we 
broke  off  small  branches  (or  '  feathers ')  of  the  hemlock  spruce, 
which  makes  the  srveetest  and  best  foundation  for  an  Alpine 
couch  in  this  country — sweeter  than,  if  not  so  pretty  as  our 
heather.  Over  this  the  Governor  spread  a  thin  oilskin.  My  air- 
cushions  were  the  most  valuable ;  we  puffed  them  up,  and  with 
these,  my  leather  bag  as  a  bolster,  large  plaids  and  felt  coverings, 

and  Mary  M 's  black  and  scarlet  shawl  as  a  curtain  of  division, 

we,  two  ladies,  and  two  gentlemen,  slept  soundly,  after  making  a 
hearty  supper  off  trout  and  potatoes.  I  had  provided  a  dozen 
lemons,  aware  that  when  no  milk  can  be  had,  the  juice  is  an  excel- 
lent addition  to  tea,  and  this  plan  was  unanimously  approved.  To 
our  guides  the  idea  was  quite  new ;  and,  as  all  forest  fare  is  com- 
mon pot-luck,  they  were  quite  pleased.  '  It  isn't  bad,' — *  Right 
fine,  I'll  assure  you ; '  but  the  first  sentence  implies  almost  as  high 
praise  as  '  It  won't  hurt  you; '  and  that  is  the  acme.  I  concocted 
my  pudding  with  the  wijd-plums,  deprived  of  their  stones,  biscuit, 
brown  sugar,  a  little  butter,  and  some  water ;  but,  as  some  hours' 
stewing  was  necessary,  this  dish  was  not  produced  before  our 
breakfast.  One  of  the  boats  was  turned  upside  down  for  a  table ; 
our  candlesticks,  a  large  potato  placed  upon  a  tin  pail  inverted. 
The  guides  bivouacked  close  around  the  little  tent.  About  half- 
past  two  o'clock,  according  to  a  common  habit  in  the  forests,  we 
all  roused  up  for  half-an-hour,  replenished  the  fire,  and  I  removed 


GOOD  FISHING. 


881 


my  Btew  to  a  little  fire  of  itB  own,  tliat  it  might  not  get  quite 
Btewed  away  before  morning.  We  then  again  composed  ourselves 
to  sleep  again,  and  had  comfortable  naps  till  daylight.  During 
the  night  I  heard  a  horrible  noise  once  or  twice,  and,  imagining 
it  might  be  the  howl  of  a  wolf,  I  called  to  Moody,  who  assured 
me  it  was  nothing  but  a  screech-owl.  At  five  o'clock  began  pre- 
parations for  breakfast — ^frying  pork,  broiling  trout  and  potatoes, 
and  water  for  the  kettle  of  tea ;  at  last,  trout  were  broiled  in  the 
same  pan  with  the  pork  gravy,  an  excellent  dish.  We  two  ladies 
went  down  to  the  lake  to  make  our  toilet,  and  balanced  ourselves 
in  one  of  the  empty  boats,  to  use  tooth-brushes,  &c.  While  the 
rest  of  the  party  were  packing  up,  and  preparing  to  undertake  the 
porti^  to  Story  Greek,  I  made  a  sketch  before  the  tent  was 
struck,  and  caught  one  of  the  men  in  the  act  of  carrying  the  boat, 
with  his  head  concealed  underneath,  like  some  nondescript  shell- 
fish. 

Before  we  started,  the  gentlemen  hung  a  small  mirror  of 

M 's  on  a  tree,  and  very  composedly  shaved  themselves.  The 

guides  took  the  boats  upon  their  heads,  and  after  two  returns  they 
transported  all  the  baggage  the  rest  of  the  party  could  not  carry 
through  two  miles  of  difiEicult  portage.  Then  we  reached  the 
Otter's  Greek  and  Baquette  River,  where  at  last,  at  the  junction 
of  the  streams,  there  was  such  good  ^ing,  that  a  long  pause 
ensued.     The  trout  were  large  and  pleitiful.      The  Qovemor 

caught  several,  weighing  from  two  to  three  pounds.     Mr.  H 

lost  two  of  his  best ;  one  owing  to  his  young  boatman,  and  the 
other  owing  to  his  own  hurry  in  pulling  up  his  prize.  I  landed 
to  sketch  the  scenery,  and  was  so  much  absorbed  as  to  leave  my 
parasol  in  a  bush.  We  rowed  back  half  a  mile  for  its  recovery ; 
however,  Mr.  Moody  took  this  trouble  without  a  murmur,  and 

Mr.  S having  extremely  enjoyed  his  sport,  I  believe  he  was 

rather  pleased  to  take  another  look  at  that  pleasant  locality.  We 
did  not  again  join  the  other  boats  until  our  arrival  at  the  next 
rapids,  where  we  were  obliged  to  resign  ourselves  to  another  te- 
dious portage ;  but  the  row  down  Raquette  River  had  been  de- 
lightful— it  flows  through  a  deep  forest  of  maples,  pines,  and 


382 


DEER   HUNTINP 


tamarisks ;  the  crimson  tints  of  autumn  blending  with  dark  and 
orange  foliage,  tiny  seedling  red  maples  dotting  the  rocks  and  the 
bogs ;  the  cardinal  flower,  blue  gentian,  and  lilac  asters  occasion- 
ally showing  themselves;  but  through  this  whole  region,  the 
autumnal  flora  has  not  a  great  deal  of  variety.  I  gathered  some 
berries  of  a  Bhamnus,  saw  very  large  leaved  willows  and  species 
of  Vaecinium  (one  very  good  indeed) ;  the  scarlet  berries  of  Can- 
nas  Canadensis  everywhere  enlivened  the  forest ;  and  there  were 
also  the  white  Partridge  berry,  bright  trillium  seeds,  and  the  large 
and  small  wintergreen,  Gaubtheria  procumbens. 

Now  and  then  the  starry  flowers  of  Houstonias  lingered  on 
the  ground,  and  raspberries  and  low  blackberries  refreshed  us  on 
our  way — these,  with  the  exception  of  white  and  yellow  Nymphaes, 
called  by  the  people  '  Lilypods,'  were  all  I  saw  of  flowers  or  seeds. 
Peer  feed  much  on  these  lilypods  early  in  the  season,  and  as  they 
come  down  to  the  rivers  and  lakes  in  search  of  their  tender  shoots, 
they  fall  an  easy  prey  at  that  period ;  but  now  they  feed  upon 
higher  ground,  so  dogs  are  sent  off  who  hunt  out  a  single  one,  and 
chase  him  down  to  any  part  of  the  lakes,  where  they  are  loosed ; 
there  they  keep  him  in  the  water,  and  by  their  baying  call  their 
masters  to  finish  the  chase.  Our  gentlemen  were  not  successful 
in  shooting  any,  because,  owing  to  the  long  distance  we  had  to 
travel  through  this  wilderness  (about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles), 
the  mornings  could  not  be  spared  for  hunting ;  and  although  two 
attempts  were  made  by  despatching  the  hounds  in  the  afternoon, 
they^  did  not  bring  their  game  back  until  too  dark  for  even  the 
accustomed  to  get  a  shot.  Maple  and  birch  are  considered  the 
best  wood  with  which  to  build  a  fire  :  the  common  distinguishing 
phrase  is  *  hard  and  soft  wood.'  Hard  is  applied  to  deciduous 
trees,  soft  to  the  pines  and  evergreens.  *  How  finely  the  soft  and 
hard  trees  are  mixed  on  that  mountain,'  said  one  of  our  party. 

Upon  landing  below  the  Baquette  Falls,  we  had  a  mile  and  a 
half  of  difficult  portage :  the  signs  of  a  trail  were  at  times  hardly 
visible ;  gigantic  timber  felled  by  storms,  or  by  time,  crossed  the 
obscure  path,  sometimes  every  twenty  yards ;  deep  bogs,  and  slip- 
pery rocks  impeded  it,  and  we  had  often  to  retrace  our  steps,  or 


OXm,   TOILKT. 


883 


seek  a  blazed  tree  before  we  could  find  our  way ;  each  indiyidual 
of  the  party  straggled  on  as  he  or  she  could,  with  their  loads. 

When  Mr.  S had  conveyed  his  to  the  edge  of  the  river  above 

the  Falls,  he  kindly  returned  to  relieve  me  of  whatever  basket  or 
bundle  I  had  been  able  to  carry ;  and  so  we  all  at  last  reached 
our  intended  camping  place,  a  beautiful  spot.  Our  tent  was  soon 
pitched,  a  bright  fire  in  front  of  it  wast  lit,  just  at  the  edge  of  the 
water,  and  another  blaze  for  cooking,  made  near  to  our  boat-table. 
The  largest  trout  were  boiled,  the  smaller  ones  broiled,  with  ex- 
cellent potatoes,  for  our  supper ;  tea-lemonade  our  beverage.  As 
an  awakening  amusement  for  an  hour  afterwards,  we  played  a  game 
of  whist,  with  a  not  very  white  pack  of  cards,  procured  from  one 
of  the  guides ;  and  then  after  arranging  our  couch  as  before,  we 
slept  very  soundly  till  after  one  o'clock,  when  the  fires  were  made 
up,  and  then  we  slept  again  till  morning ;  not  a  sound  disturbed 
the  forest,  except  that  of  the  rippling  waters  at  our  feet ;  but 
when  we  awoke  at  six,  a  gentle  rain  pattered  upon  the  surround- 
ing trees.  However,  it  was  no  more  than  *  the  pride  of  the  morn- 
ing,' just  enough  to  make  us  more  sensible  of  the  blessing  of  fine 

weather.     M.  M selected  a  sheltered  rocky  nook,  a  little  way 

back  for  our  dressing-room ;  there  we  bathed,  and  adjusted  our 
toilet  with  brushes,  combs,  tooth-brushes,  a  luxury  of  towels,  and 
even  a  tiny  mirror  hung  upon  the  lowest  branch  of  a  fine  hemlock 
spruce ;  this  smartening  up  of  the  individual  woman  marked  our 
Sunday  morr.iag,  for  no  Sabbath-day's  rest  can  be  set  apart  for 
travellers  in  the  Bush,  who  must  get  to  their  journey's  end  by 
a  certain  day,  or  go  without  the  common  necessaries  of  existence. 
We  came  forth  again  arrayed  in  cleanliness:  its  opposite  is  at  times 
picturesque,  but  certainly  not  comfortable.  On  the  whole,  I  was 
impressed  by  the  tidy  habits  of  our  three  guides ;  they  omitted 
no  opportunity  for  using  the  fresh  pure  water  to  wash  away  im- 
purities, either  on  their  hands  or  upon  our  culinary  matters,  and 
never  left  cup  or  pktter  in  a  soiled  state,  if  they  could  help  it. 

Before  our  starting,  the  Governor  rowed  me  over  to  the  opposite 
shore  for  a  sketch  of  our  resting-place.  A  few  miles  further  up 
the  Uaquette  Biver  some  of  our  party  saw  the  track  of  a  wolt 


384 


X.0NO  LAKK. 


and  we  heard  the  partridge  drum :  this  noise  is  caused  by  the 
wing  of  that  bird,  which  in  plumage  is  like  ours,  but  in  size  it 
comes  nearer  to  our  pheasant.  Wild-ducks  appeared  numerous, 
but  they  kept  at  a  distance.  Now  again  we  got  sight  of  distant 
mountains ;  of  late,  the  forests  and  swamps  have  been  low  and 
flat.  The  approach  to  Long  Lake  is  so  thickly  covered  with 
lilypods,  rushes,  and  other  water-plants,  that  it  seemed  as  if  we 
were  making  our  way  across  watery  meadows.  When  we  reached 
the  lake  itself,  the  wind  blew  freshly,  and  our  boatmen  had  to 
row  eighteen  miles  against  it  and  the  wavelets  which  arose.  Oc- 
casional settlements  dot  the  shores :  a  boy  of  ten  years  old  pad- 
dled his  little  boat  towards  us,  and  when  we  asked  him  if  many 
people  lived  there,  he  answered,  '  There  is  the  baby,  and  a  few 
more.'  Evidently,  that  baby  was  the  individual  of  most  impor- 
tanoe.  We  again  saw  wild-ducks,  an  eagle,  a  gull,  and  a  loon ; 
and  at  one  spot  (a  rare  sight  in  this  wilderness)  two  small  wagons 
were  waiting  to  be  transported  across  the  lake. 

A  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carey,  with  a  family  of  young  children,  pos- 
sessing cows  and  horses,  and  a  house  in  the  background,  lived 
just  behind  the  rocky  knoll  where  we  decided  upon  forming  our 
encampment — ^under  some  tall  pine-trees :  they  supplied  us  with 
excellent  milk  and  bread  and  butter,  an  unaccustomed  luxury,, 
and  also  with  some  straw  for  our  beds.  Mrs.  Carey,  a  pleasing 
young  woman,  visited  us  with  a  present  of  blackberries  after  sup- 
per. The  *  Owl's  Head'  was  a  prominent  mountain  beyond,  and 
a  young  crescent  moon  arose  not  far  above  it.  In  the  morning  we 
had  some  fine  rain ;  but  with  the  aid  of  my  large  umbrella,  I  did 
not  miss  a  sketch  of  our  camp :  and  the  palmetto  fly-flapper  I  had 
brought  all  the  way  from  Mobile  proved  of  great  use  in  frighten- 
ing away  mosquitoes.  Alas !  I  afterwards  lost  it  during  one  of 
the  portages.  Here  it  was  decided  to  leave  one  bo&t.  Mr.  Ca- 
rey was  to  convey  the  chief  guide  with  a  secQud  one  in  a  wagon, 
a  cross-cut  through  the  woods ;  and  we  all  packed  into  the  remain- 
ing boat,  as  there  was  some  probable  difficulty  in  getting  through 
rapids  and  portages.  The  guns  and  dogs  having  both  been  con- 
veyed to  the  land  carriage,  whole  flights  of  ducks  passed  fearlessly 


A    VARIETT   OF  rUNOUSEB. 


385 


i 


within  ahot,  as  if  they  had  by  some  means  become  aware  of  theii 
security.  After  two  or  three  portages,  fatiguing  and  difficult 
enough,  the  men  determined  to  attempt  pushing  the  boat  through 
the  last  rapid.  Now  touching  one  rock,  now  fast  upon  another, 
the  water  rushing  by,  I  did  not  think  the  adventure  a  pleasant 
one ;  at  last  we  came  to  a  dead  lock.    Jamie  M'Cleland  proposed 

that  Governor  Seymour  and  Mr.   H should  jump  upon  a 

rock,  water-surrounded  as  it  was,  and  by  so  lightening  the  boat, 
we  were  with  difficulty  floated  up  to  a  landing :  here  we  quickly 
heard  Moody's  whoop,  and  he  came  up  with  a  partridge  he  had 
killed  during  his  progress  by  laud :  and  soon  the  whole  party  was 
again  mustered,  for  our  gentlemen  had  waded  on  shore  from  their 
rock  and  thus  rejoined  us.  This  day  we  saw  the  truck  of  a  moose* 
deer  on  the  edge  of  a  stream;  plenty  of  tracks  and  signs  of 
smaller  deer :  one  or  two  solitary  cranes,  and  a  bald-headed  eagle. 
It  was  muddy  walking ;  we  were  thoroughly  bespattered,  but  Ja- 
mie endeavoured  to  console  us  by  the  assurance  that  he  had  '  seen 
women  looking  much  worse.' 

In  these  forests,  the  variety  of  funguses  is  beyond  description; 
some,  just  like  beautiful  white  coral.  Many  were,  in  form  and 
substance,  quite  different  from  any  drawings  or  models  I  have 
seen;  the  colours  scarlet,  orange,  pink,  pure  white,  black,  drab,  and 
rose ;  and  bunches  of  that  odd  monotropa,  the  Indian  pipe,  con- 
stantly fringed  our  path.  It  seems  to  me  that  there  is  something 
nourishing  in  the  air  of  these  Alpine  forests :  I  never  felt  very 
hungry,  although  our  meals  were  far  apart,  and  usually  very  light 
in  substance.  As  we  rowed  down  the  Baquette  Lake,  I  observed 
a  yellow  sunset,  with  heaped-up  clouds  to  the  south,  and  a  sus- 
picion crossed  my  mind  that  stormy  weather  was  brewing.  At  a 
rough  clearing,  our  guides  pulled  up.  A  shanty  belonging  to  a 
Mr.  Beech  was  not  a  great  way  off,  and,  oddly  enough,  there  was 
another  clearing  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  lake,  owned  by  a 
Mr.  Wood. 

Our  tent  was  pitched  on  a  cleared  spot,  near  where  a  famous 
eagle  onco  had  his  eyrie  upon  a  tall  pine ;  both  pine  and  eagle 
are  gone — the  latter  died,  and  the  former  was  blown  down.  Some 
17 


886 


A    STORMY    NIGHT. 


dried  venison  was  procured,  and  a  neighbour  provided  milk.  "Wo 
composed  ourselves  to  rest,  and  slept  till  midnight ;  then  growl- 
ing thunder,  vivid  lightning,  and  pouring  rain  disturbed  our  slum- 
bers. A  wet  morning  followed,  and  any  intention  of  striking  our 
tent  was  abandoned.  It  was  a  violent  storm — ^probably  an  equi- 
noctial gale.  We  had  only  to  be  patient  and  enduring,  with  the 
conviction  that  *  Time  and  the  hours  run  through  the  roughest 
day.' 

In  the  afternoon  the  weather  cleared,  and  we  went  by  the  lake 
to  visit  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Beech,  while  the  gentlemen  and  the  guides 
went  off  hunting.  But  their  dogs  did  not  immediately  find,  and 
again,  it  was  too  dark  to  shoot  a  deer  which  was  hunted  down  to 
the  water.  The  ladies  returned  to  our  tent,  and  as  I  had  a 
reserved  provision  of  arrowroot,  I  determined  to  make  a  large 
kettleful,  flavoured  with  lemoLi^  and  molasses,  adding  to  it  a  por- 
tion of  Malaga,  and  putting  in  biscuits.  This  made  a  comforting 
warm  mess  for  the  cold  and  tired  hunters  upon  their  return. 

After  the  violent  rain  of  last  night  and  to-day,  we  found  our 
hemlock  spruce  beds  rather  damp,  although  the  guides  had  turned 
the  tent  so  as  to  face  a  large  fire,  and  accommodate  it  to  a  change 
of  wind.  In  spite  of  all  the  wet,  however,  no  colds  were  caught, 
and  early  on  the  20th  of  September  we  embarked  again  on  the 
lake  in  high  spirits.  The  guides  had  stowed  themselves  under 
one  of  the  boats  during  the  night,  which  perhaps  sheltered  them 
even  more  completely  than  our  tent  did  us. 

During  this  last  pause  in  our  wanderings,  we'  could  not  help 
being  struck  by  the  wild,  careless,  picturesque  appearance  inside 
that  tent.  Seated  upon  the  floor,  where  we  were  taking  our  m.eals, 
with  pans  of  tea,  and  plates  of  tin,  air-cushions,  and  variously 
coloured  plaids  and  felts  scattered  around;  sketch-books  and 
presses,  books  and  maps ;  a  large  tin  case,  containing  our  store  of 
grocery,  a  huge  basket  full  of  biscuits,  a  hammer  ensconced 
among  bunches  of  berries ;  tallow  candles,  under  protection  from 
the  damp,  towels,  hats,  bonnets,  and  other  articles  of  attire  im 
partially  scattered ;  accidentally  bestowed  touches  of  scarlet  and 
blue  upon  the  interior,  lit  up  as  it  was  by  the  warm  glow  of  a 


THE   EIGHT  LAKES. 


387 


blazing  wood  fire— this  would  have  formed  a  picture  for  Gerard 
Dow. 

I  forgot  to  say  we  ate  Mr.  Moody's  partridge  for  breakfast, 
and  it  proved  excellent.  I  did  not  omit  to  sketch  this  encamp- 
ment before  we  left  it.  As  we  rowed  up  the  Raquette  Lake,  a 
Blight  snow-storm  overtook  us,  but  it  was  soon  over.  Even  during 
that  early  morning,  with  its  fog  and  snow,  the  lake  was  beautiful, 
with  numerous  bays  and  islands,  and  blue  mountains  rising  in  the 
distance.  We  passed  through  a  narrow  channel  for  some  way, 
then  disembarked  for  a  portage  to  the  eighth  lake  of  the  Eckford 
chain ;  for  eight  lakes  of  differing  magnitude  are  strung  upon  the 
Moose  River,  a^:  d  we  were  to  pass  through  all.  We  now  found 
a  sandy  beach  which  before  had  been  rocky.  The  cheerful  little 
crossbill  hopped  fearlessly  around  us,  and  wild-ducks  flew  away. 
After  rowing  across  the  eighth,  another  portage  brought  us  to 
the  seventh  lake.  There  was  some  difficulty  in  pushing  the  boats 
over  a  sandy  bar  at  its  entrance  from  the  narrow  stream  we  had 
just  traversed.  The  seventh  lake  is  quite  encircled  by  hills. 
We  observed  a  tempting  rocky  promontory,  and  as  the  sun  was 
getting  low,  we  decided  upon  landing  upon  a  pretty  sheltered 
beach  behind  it. 

Our  tent  was  pitched  behind  a  gigantic  fallen  tree,  against 
which  the  fire  was  made  :  it  served  as  a  convenient  table  for  our 
cooking  operations,  as  well  as  a  good  back  for  the  blaze.  I  made 
a  can  of  excellent  portable  soup,  a  provision  we  had  before  tried 
with  success ;  but  now  I"  added  a  little  arrowroot,  an  onion,  pota- 
toes, two  or  three  spoonsful  of  sweet  wine,  and  several  biscuits. 
It  was  generally  agreed  that  this  mixture  '  would  not  hurt  any- 
body ; '  indeed  it  might  anywhere  have  been  considered  an  excel- 
lent soup. 

I  found  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  portable  soup,  or  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  arrowroot  necessary  to  make  the  quantity  sufficient 
for  seven  hungry  bodies.  Although  I  brought  these  things  with 
me  from  England  more  than  a  year  aero,  thev  were  in  cood  nreser- 
vation ;  and  I  recommend  London  portable  soup  to  all  travellers 
in  the  Bush,  and  advise  them  also  to  add  lemons  and  a  good  store 


' 


888 


MODERN  BORANDAS. 


11 


of  Bugar,  brown  and  white,  to  their  other  preparations.    We  had 
a  bright  moon  this  evening.     Some  hunters  and  fishers  were  upon 
the  lake,  and  from  the  latter  our  people  procured  trout,  and  all 
enjoyed  this  camp  particularly,  even  though  no  deer  were  at- 
tained.    We  had  a  misty  morning,  but  the  mountain  tops  soon 
peered  out.     We  again  embarked,  and  passed  from  one  lake  into 
others,  sometimes  by  such  narrow  outlets  that  there  was  a  diffi- 
culty in  finding  them,  until  at  the  last  our  boatmen  rowed  twice  a 
considerable  distance  before  a  swampy-looking  egress  was  dis- 
covered :  this  led  us  into  a  pretty  winding  creek,  and  another 
short  portage  brought  us  below  the  falls  of  the  Moose  River  into 
its  rapid  stream.     Here  we  had  only  one  boat.     The  Governor 
(for  our  other  gentlemen  hod  been  obliged  to  leave  us  before  we 
entered  the  chain  of  lalies)  walked  on  to  make  some  arrangements 
at  Arnold's  Farm,  and  we  two  ladies,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Moody 
and  M'Cleland,  had  a  pleasant  row,  seeing  ,many  canvas-back 
ducks  before  us  in  the  river.     The  former  shot  one,  which  I  have 
no  doubt  would  have  been  very  good  for  dinner,  but  we  never  had 
any  time  or  opportunity  for  trying  the  experiment.    Mr.  Seymour 
remained  to  make  arrangements  with  the  guides,  while  his  niece 
and  I  walked  on  to  Arnold's  Farm.   There  we  found  Mrs.  Arnold 
and  six  daughters.   These  girls,  aged  from  twelve  to  twenty,  were 
placed  in  a  row  against  one  wall  of  the  shanty,  with  looks  so  ex- 
pressive of  astonishment,  that  I  felt  puzzled  to  account  for  their 
manner,  till  their  mother  informed  us  they  had  never  before  seen 
any  other  woman  than  herself  1     I  could  not  elicit  a  word  from 
them ;  but,  at  last,  when  I  begged  for  a  little  milk,  the  eldest 
went  and  brought  me  a  glass.     I  then  remembered  that  we  had 
met  a  single  hunter  rowing  himself  in  a  skiff  on  the  Moose  River, 
who  called  out,  '  Where  on  the  'arth  do  they  women  come  from  ? ' 
And  our  after-experience  fully  explained  why  ladies  are  rare 
birds  in  that  locality.     At  this  place  we  expected  to  fiind  horses, 
but  owing  to  our  twenty-four  hours'  detention  on  Raquette  Lake, 
they  had  been  sent  off  to  bring  up  some  gentlemen  from  Brown's 
Tract;  pedestrianism  was  therefore  our  only  resource.     Jamie 
M'Cleland  came  up  from  the  river,  and  explained  that  unless  we 


*  NKCESSITT   HAS   NO   LAW.* 


?8t 


made  some  further  progress  this  evening,  we  should  not  be  able 
to  get  through  the  forest  during  daylight  to-morrow,  and  delay 
was  of  importance,  so  we  decided  upon  trudging  on  as  far  as  pos- 
sible. Jamie  took  the  tent  on  his  back,  and  Mr.  Seymour  and 
the  other  guides  were  to  follow  as  soon  as  they  could  select  posi- 
tive necessaries  from  our  baggage.  Mrs.  Arnold  was  furious — 
she  did  all  but  try  to  detain  us  by  force — declared  we  could  not 
get  on,  and  that  she  should  soon  see  us  back  again ;  but  necessity 
has  no  law  :  we  felt  the  importance  of  determination,  and  we  had 
become  too  experienced  gipsies  to  fear  camping  out.  For  one 
mile  we  had  a  pleasant  path,  then  commenced  the  series  of  bog- 
holes  which,  with  few  and  short  intervals,  were  to  bo  scrambled 
through  for  sixteen  miles.  The  worst  was,  that  as  night  closed 
in,  we  could  not  find  a  dry  spot  upon  which  to  pitch  our  tent. 
At  last  we  sent  Jamie  on,  and  he  brought  us  the  news  that,  at  a 
short  distance  he  had  found  a  little  knoll  above  the  bogs. 

Dark  as  it  was,  we  reached  this  spot,  without  any  other  mis- 
hap than  an  occasional  flounder  in  the  mud ;  but  all  the  lumber 
around  was  soaking  wet.  No  fire  could  be  made  till  our  guide 
had  cut  down  a  tree — for  he  had  not  forgotten  his  axe ;  and  his 
experienced  arm  soon  felled  a  birch  of  considerable  size,  cut  it  in 
logs  about  two  yards  long,  and  so  built  up  a  fire,  which  we  assisted 
in  lighting,  by  breaking  ofi"  dry  brush  from  the  surrounding  bush. 
Jamie  worked  hard ;  and  before  Mr.  Seymour  and  the  other 
guides  joined  us  with  exclamations  of  astonishment  how  we  had 
ever  got  through  the  places  which  had  nearly  swamped  them,  the 
tent  was  raised,  hemlock  branches  gathered,  and  a  good  fire  blazed 
all  ready  for  cooking  operations.  The  young  moon  occasionally 
peeped  through  the  foliage  above  our  heads ;  but  it  was  too  thick 
for  much  light  to  be  visible.  Our  only  misfortune  at  that  mo- 
ment was  the  suflFerings  of  poor  young  Prince  Albert,  who  lay 
upon  the  ground  agonized  and  quite  useless.  We  gave  him  what 
comfort  we  could  ;  and  I  administered  camphor,  which  soothed 
the  pain,  and  enabled  him  to  get  asleep.  Our  head  guide  told 
me  he  knew  the  value  of  that  substance  in  most  cases  of  slight 
illness ;  and  that  he  seld4  m  went  into  the  forest  unprovided  with 
•ome  of  it. 


890 


DEPARTURE  OF   THE  OVlDEti. 


Before  daylight  next  morniDg  we  again  aroused  ourselves. 
"Fortunately  sufficient  portable  soup  and  arrowroot  was  still  left 
to  make  a  good  warm  mess  for  breakfast ;  and  this  nourishment 
is  so  lasting,  that,  with  the  exception  of  half  a  biscuit  and  some 
water,  I  got  on  upon  it  till  we  reached  our  resting  place  at  Bon- 
ville,  after  nine  in  the  evening.  At  this  encampment,  we  parted 
from  our  three  guides,  who  had  conducted  themselves  excellently 
well  through  all  our  difficulties.  Jamie,  a  Canadian,  was  going 
back  to  take  his  young  wife,  of  nineteen  (to  whom  he  had  been 
four  years  married),  to  his  father's  house,  near  Montreal.  _*  An' 
won't  she  be  glad  to  see  me  back.  I  wouldn't  change  my  gal  for 
any  gal  in  the  States,  or  in  Canada  either.'  Jamie  is  a  sober, 
handy  fellow.  I  feel  sure  he  is  a  good  husband,  as  he  certainly 
made  a  thoughtful,  intelligent  attendant  on  us  two  women  in  the 
Bush.  The  Governor  fell  in  with  Mr.  Wood,  of  Raquette  Lake, 
at  Arnold's,  and  engaged  him  to  see  us  safely  through  the  con- 
cluding passage  of  our  travels ;  but,  as  the  only  chance  of  getting 
assistance  to  meet  us,  it  was  necessary  to  send  him  on.  Mr. 
Seymour  must  always  be  considered  a  brave  man,  for  having 
undertaken  alone,  to  take  us  that  day's  walk ;  but  having  never 
passed  through  this  track  before,  he  was  happily  not  fully  aware 
^f  what  ho  undertook,  or  ho  confesses  he  should  have  been  afraid. 
The  path  we  had  to  follow  was  a  road  cut  through  the  forest  fifty 
years  ago ;  planks  had  been  laid  down  and  corduroy  bridges 
made ;  but,  as  no  settlement  followed,  left  to  entire  neglect,  tho 
rotten  timbers  only  made  bad  worse ;  and  I  imagine  that  it  would 
be  impossible  to  find  anywhere  a  track  so  difficult  to  get  over  as 
that  through  which  we  patiently  laboured  for  ten  consecutive 
hours.  Mr.  Seymour's  patience  and  good  humour  never  gave 
way.  Putting  off  the  packages  on  his  back,  he  now  extricated 
one  companion,  now  another,  from  a  boggy  'fix.'  I  never  shall 
forget  the  astonishment  of  Mr.  Stephens,  of  yacht  celebrity,  when, 
on  horseback  with  another  gentleman  and  guides,  he  met  us 
emerging  from  the  Bush  I  They  had  four  horses ;  and  our  avayit- 
courier^  Mr.  Wood,  had  secured  one  of  them,  upon  which  I 
mounted ;  and,  although  it  was  not  easy  to  keep  my  seat  upon  a 


EAKLY  MEMORIES. 


891 


man's  saddle  In  getting  over  such  ground,  I  soon  found  the  benefit 
of  being  carried  on  the  last  few  miles  by  some  other  agency  than 
my  own  feet.  Mr.  Seymour  and  his  niece  walked  on ;  in  one 
mile  more  we  again  reached  the  Moose  Hiver,  and  crossed  it  in  a 
boat ;  and  another  two  hours  brought  us  to  the  clearing,  where  a 
small  wagon  was  procured — rough  enough,  but  still  a  wagon — 
which  took  us  to  a  comfortable  hotel,  at  the  small  town  of  Bon- 
ville,  from  whence,  after  a  good  night's  rest,  we  got  on  by  coach 
and  cars  to  Utica.  A  singular  and  touching  circumstance  oc- 
curred to  me  in  the  coach.  An  old  man  and  a  younger  one 
conversed  in  Welsh.  I  could  not  help  inquiring  what  part  of 
Wales  they  came  from,  for  that  tongue  awoke  in  my  heart  early 
memories.  The  old  man  knew  Caermarthen ;  had  been  at  Aberg- 
willy,  and  spoke  of  my  father  as  *  that  charity  man.'  David 
Owen  was  quite  blind ;  but  that  meeting  was  pleasant  to  us  both. 
After  fifty  years,  to  hear  one's  father's  name  spoken  of  with 
respect  and  afiection,  in  this  far  distant  land !  There  are  many 
Welsh  people  settled  hereabouts.  Owen's  home  was  a  small 
village  near  Trenton  Falls.     As  we  passed  over  a  bridge, — 

*  Now,'  he  said,  *  we  are  near  my  home.' 

'  Not  being  able  to  see,  how  do  you  know  that  ? ' 

*  Ah  !  do  I  not  understand  .the  voice  of  that  bridge  ? '  And 
one  or  two  miles  beyond,  the  old  man  and  I  parted,  he  shaking 
me  by  the  hand,  with  his  blessing.  Three  days  at  Utica  were 
necessary  to  recruit  and  repose  myself.  Now  I  write  from  Ca- 
naudaigua,  on  the  eve  of  starting  for  Chicago  and  St.  Louis. 

Buffalo^  September  27. — We  left  Canandaigua  at  ten  this 
morning ;  but,  having  reached  this  place  by  four,  we  cannot  pro- 
ceed till  half-past  nine  o'clock.  By  travelling  all  night,  we  may 
arrive  at  Chicago  to-morrow  evening,  and  be  at  St.  Louis  next 
day. 

Chicago,  Friday  night — ^We  have  travelled  four  hundred  and 
ninety-two  miles  since  ten  o'clock  last  night ;  very  rapidly  and 
pleasantly  to-day,  only  changing  cars  at  Toledo.  The  previous 
night's  journey  was  a  crowded  one ;  a  great  number  of  the  men  in 
the  carriages  indulged  themselves  in  the  habits  of  the  backwoods, 


892 


AXERICAN  Ain>  E17GLISH   SOLDIERS. 


which  made  them  very  unpleasant  neighbours,  although  their  ap 
pearance  was  respectable;  and  T  was  glad  of  a  change  which  gave 
us  another  set  of  fellow-travellers.  The  country  between  this 
place  and  Cleveland  is  in  a  rapid  course  of  settlement.  There  is 
not  an  evergreen  of  any  kind  to  be  seen — neither  firs,  spruce,  nor 
cedars ;  the  forest  consists  entirely  of '  hard  '  wood  tiees,  ;>f  which 
there  is  a  great  variety — chiefly  beech,  oak,  plane,  ash,  and  pop- 
lar. I  did  not  observe  much  hickory,  or  any  acacias ;  and,  as  the 
timber  is  not  on  the  whole  of  great  size,  I  suppose  there  is  less 
difficulty  in  making  clearings  in  this  district  than  in  some  others 
I  have  passed  through.  Numerous  towns  are  starting  up — as 
usual,  with  names  not  particularly  well  selected. 

After  Toledo,  we  passed  through  Hudson,  Hillsdale,  Jones- 
ville,  Coldwater,  White  Pigeon,  &c.,  &c.  On  approaching  Chi- 
cago, the  country  begins  to  acquire  a  prairie  character ;  and  I  saw 
such  large  fields  of  grain,  and  so  many  signs  of  improved  farming, 
that  but  for  snake-fences,  I  could  have  believed  myself  in  some 
parts  of  England.  A  rolling  district,  dotted  by  small  lakes,  pre- 
vails about  Hillsborough,  while  for  a  hundred  miles  this  side 
Lake  Erie  the  forests  are  flat  and  undiversified.  In  marshy  plains, 
bilious  fevers  are  common.  I  was  told  that  sleeping  in  respira- 
tors is  a  certain  preventive.  I  wonder  whether  this  has  been  tried 
at  Norfolk,  where  there  has  been  of  late  such  dreadful  pestilence. 
During  our  journey  here,  I  heard  of  the  Fall  of  Sebastopol — sad, 
sad  carnage.  My  anxiety  to  know  the  names  of  those  who  have 
last  sacrificed  themselves  for  England  and  duty  must,  perhaps,  re- 
main unappeased  for  days.  Triends  and  friends'  sons  still  there 
to  be  risked — ^heroes  and  Cornelias :  they  will  have  their  reward. 

During  our  mountain  expedition  I  was  struck  by  the  one  fact 
which  gives  American  armies  an  advantage  in  warfare — the  practi- 
cal rifle  skill  which  backwoods'  sport  cultivates.  Our  guides  always 
took  off"  the  head  of  a  squirrel  with  their  guns,  to  avoid  (as  they 
said)  *  injuring  the  skin,'  so  that  every  American  soldier  is  a  good 
marksman,  while  many  of  England's  brave  peasantry,  though  will- 
ing and  ready  to  fight,  hardly  know  (upon  their  first  enlistment) 
how  to  fire  off  a  shot.     This  morning,  I  remarked  a  circumstance 


tTNCOURTEOUS    MANNERS. 


893 


which  has  before  attracted  my  observation  travelling  in  railroad 
cars.  Men  in  the  garb  of  gentlemen,  and  who  would  be  indig- 
nant at  being  addressed  by  any  other  appellation,  were  busy  help- 
ing one  another  to  drams  of  brandy  in  the  early  morning.  Quart 
bottles  of  spirits  extracted  from  carpet-bags  is  no  uncommon  sight. 
This  habit  is  rather  illustrative  of  that  aristocratic  law  which 
denies  liberty  of  action  to  the  poor  and  sick,  while  it  does  not 
trench  upon  the  freedom  of  the  rich  and  luxurious.  Have  fanatics 
who  advocate  this  law  ever  considered  that  the  same  principle 
might  bo  applied  to  the  '  Tree  of  the  knowledge  of  good  and  evil  ? ' 
Would  not  these  people  have  preached  to  the  Saviour  upon  the 
impropriety  of  his  first  miracle,  or  the  dangers  of  the  sacramental 
wine  ?  About  forty  miles  from  Chicago  we  passed  the  first 
prairie  town  of  Joliet.  Before  entering  it  there  is  a  cutting 
through  a  kind  of  alluvial  conglomerate,  formed  of  gravel,  sand, 
and  round  water-worn  pebbles ;  and  around  it  there  are  well  cul- 
tivated farms,  backed  by  forests ;  large  fields  of  grain,  and  nu- 
merous herds  of  cattle.  We  soon  traversed  a  prairie,  and  saw 
wide,  wide  plains  covered  with  grass  and  flowers  on  every  side. 
It  is  too  late  for  the  great  beauty  of  the  flowers.  Now  there  are 
but  few  in  but  Asters,  Coreopsis,  and  Solidagos.  After  Bloora- 
ington  where  we  stopped  to  dine,  nothing  could  be  more  bleak 
and  dreary  than  the  towns,  or  rather  villages,  among  them  Lin- 
coln, Chatham,  Girard  ;  the  population  squalid  and  dirty ;  nothing 
looking  clean  but  the  white  painted  wooden  houses,  scattered 
over  the  black  trod-down  prairies  ;  not  a  fence,  not  a  bush,  not  a 
garden.  These  places  appear  to  me  much  more  desolate  than 
any  forest  clearings ;  there  you  can,  at  any  rate,  make  large  fires 
to  enliven  the  scene.  Our  journey  was  unpleasant :  in  the  day  it 
rained,  and  every  window  would  have  been  closed  if  I  had  not 
kept  mine  open  with  a  parasol  before  it.  At  night  a  rough-look- 
ing set  of  men  opened  every  glass  wide.  Whatever  the  mornings 
may  be,  almost  all  nights  in  America  are  cold.  A  superabun- 
dance of  air  in  the  cars  is  not  often  to  be  complained  of;  but  I 
have  seldom  met  with  any  consideration  for  ladies  in  this  particu- 
lar. In  travelling  to  Chicago,  when  I  had  a  small  bit  of  my  own 
17* 


894 


VNOOURTEOCS   MANNERS. 


window  open,  a  gentleman  three  seats  oflF  came  and  put  it  down, 
with  out  any  request  or  oli  word  of  apology.  No  room  i'or  more 
in  this  letter. 

Yours  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M 


LETTER  XXX. 


St.  Lovib,  Musouki,  U.  S.,  t 
October  1, 1856.        f 

My  dear  Friends, — 

It  was  almost  twelve  o'clock  at  sight  when  the  Beindeer 

steamer  landed  R and  me  at  this  place.     The  river  voyage 

of  twenty-five  miles  wais  a  most  unexpected  termination  of  our 
long  railroad  journey  from  Chicago.  It  seems  this  line  is  just 
on  the  point  of  being  opened  to  a  terminus  at  St.  Louis,*  and 
meanwhile  a  kind  of  mystery  (very  commonly  thrown  around  un- 
finished roil  lines)  has  enveloped  the  communication  between  this 
place  and  Chicago.  I  was  assured  of  going  through,  but  the 
manner  and  the  means  were  left  unexplained,  and  it  was  with 
some  surprise  that  I  found  myself  transferred  from  an  omnibus 
into  a  steamboat,  instead  of  a  hotel.  Upon  landing,  I  deter- 
mined not  to  invade  my  proposed  hosts,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  P ,  at 

that  time  of  night ;  so  after  procuring  a  carriage,  we  drove  to 
the  Planters'  Hotel,  where  I  had  the  most  reasonable  charge  for 
a  night's  lodging  and  breakfast  that  I  have  paid  in  America :  and 
after  breakfast,  my  friends  came  and  removnd  us  to  their  own 
comfortable  house.     In  the  afternoon,  they  drove  me  to  see  the 

Cemetery,  and  also  to  visit  Mrs.  P 's  father  and  mother,  a 

few  miles  out  of  town.     Colonel  O'F has  a  very  singular 

and  interesting  place,  built  on  the  site  of  some  aboriginal  city, 

*  Since  I  left  America  a  terrible  accident  has  occurred,  by  the  fall  of  a 
bridge. 


896 


ST.   LOUIS. 


and  upon  the  summit  of  one  of  the  ancient  mounds.  In  digging 
foundations,  hundreds  of  skeletons  of  a  very  old  type  were  found ; 
stone  hatchets ;  and,  among  other  relics,  one  delicately  worked 
small  mocassin.  The  trees  which  now  shade  (and  so  bury  the 
dwelling  that  but  a  very  small  peep  of  the  Mississippi  can  be  ob- 
tained from  its  portico)  were,  with  the  exception  of  one  poplar, 

all  planted  by  Colonel  O'F .     He  purchased  a  considerable 

estate  there  forty  years  ago,  and  has  a  charming  garden,  with 
some  of  the  finest  Magnolias  macrophylla,  pumila,  and  purpurea 
I  ever  saw,  excepting  in  the  forests  round  Mobile  :  magnificent 
evergreens,  Ilex  opaca,  Bed  cedars,  and  various  pinuses ;  Ipomoea, 
Quamoclit,  and  Ooccinea,  forming  bowers  six  feet  high,  and  rose 
bushes  fifteen  in  height.  I  brought  away  the  first  ripened  seed- 
vessel  of  Magnolia  macrophylla  I  ever  saw.  I  think  this  tree, 
flowers  and  fruit,  still  handsomer  than  grandiflora;  the  leaves  arc 
larger  and  finer,  although  neither  so  dark,  shining,  or  persistent 
as  those  of  the  grandiflora,  and  the  flowers  also  are  larger,  though 
not  so  numerous.  In  the  evening,  the  Botanist,  Dr.  Engelmann 
(introduced  by  a  note  from  Dr.  Gray)  called,  and  gave  me  much 

information ;  my  pleasant  friends  Dr.  and  Mrs.  L also. 

October  2. — Dr.  L came  before  nine  in  the  morning,  and 

drove  me  out  to  see  various  parts  of  the  town  and  environs.  I 
wished  to  make  a  sketch  or  two,  but  it  was  difiicult  to  find  any 
spot  from  whence  the  Mississippi  and  the  city  could  be  made 
picturesque,  and  there  would  have  been  no  satisfaction  in  a  mere 
bird's-eye  view.  At  last  I  drew  the  great  river,  with  that  now 
small  village  upon  the  opposite  bank,  called  Cahokia,  a  place 
which  was  once  of  importance,  but  which  St.  Louis  has  supplanted 
and  so  completely  eclipsed,  that  its  name  is  hardly  known  beyond 
its  immediate  vicinity.  I  made  one  more  drawing  looking  back 
upon  St.  Louis,  taking  as  foreground  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  singular  limekilns  I  ever  saw ;  it  is  so  rare  to  find  a  pictur- 
esque bit  of  building  in  America,  even  a  limekiln.  My  pleasant 
kind  friend  then  took  me  to  see  Dr.  Englemann,  where,  upon  a 
small  lead  at  the  back  of  his  little  town  house  (which  was  trel' 
lised  by  a  Catawba  vine,  in  full  bearing),  is  to  be  seen  the  most 


OHIOAOO. 


897 


1 


rare  and  carious  collection  of  Yucas  and  Cacti,  cultivated  this 
side  of  the  Atlantic ;  most  of  them  from  Mexico.  The  Doctor 
kindly  gave  me  a  little  box  of  seedlings,  vrhich  I  hope  to  import 
safely  into  England.  These  objects  of  interest  delayed  my  re- 
turn to  Dr.  and  Mrs.  P until  after  their  dinner  hour.     I 

was  easily  forgiven ;  but  they  and  some  friends  were  waiting. 

We  spent  the  evening  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  L .     Although  I 

was  obliged  to  be  on  board  the  steamer  at  six,  I  did  not  go  to 
rest  till  two  o'clock,  in  the  morning. 

Chicago,  October  3.—A  beautiful  day ;  and  as  Lake  Michigan 
is  the  only  path  by  which  I  can  hope  to  attain  Mackinaw  and  the 
Sault  St.  Marie,  after  reaching  Milwaukie  by  railroad,  fine  weather 
is  of  great  importance ;  but  the  elements  have  been  unceasingly 
good-natured  to  me  :  ever  since  I  left  the  shores  of  England,  rain 
or  sunshine  has  always  come  at  the  right  time  for  my  particular 
objects,  and  if  this  good  fortune  will  only  continue  till  the  second 
week  in  November,  and  see  me  well  across  the  Atlantic  again,  I 
shall  have  the  greatest  reason  to  be  thankful. 

Now  I  must  go  back  to  my  leaving  St.  Louis  yesterday  morn- 
ing.    After  performing  every  other  act  of  hospitality  and  kindness 

possible,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  P and  Dr.  L         were  up  at  five ;  the 

two  gentlemen  accompanied  me  to  the  Beindeer  steamer,  and  re- 
mained till  the  starting-bell  rung.  At  St.  Louis  I  have  left  a 
valuable  and  valued  friend,  even  if  in  this  phase  of  existence  I 
meet  him  no  more.  We  steamed  away  from  the  first  forest  of 
only  funnels  I  ever  beheld.  At  New  Orleans  there  was  also  an 
immense  assemblage  of  steamers,  but  there  I  saw  also  sailing- 
vessels,  boats,  masts :  at  St.  Louis  no  boats  but  steamers ;  no  sails, 
no  masts.  It  was  a  striking  object  for  contemplation,  not  a  pic- 
turesque one  certainly — still  full  of  meaning.  Some  of  the  names, 
too,  were  suggestive — Reothuk,  Shenandoah,  Monongahela — In- 
dian sounds,  poetical  and  characteristic,  and  appropriate  to  the 
waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri,  which  fall  in  about 
twenty  miles  above  St.  Louis.  We  saw  the  junction  of  these 
streams,  and  saw,  too,  how  the  heavy  molten  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri contaminate  the  purity  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.     For  a 


898 


WOMEN  '   AND   <  LADIES. 


short  distance  that  bright  bluo  river  keeps  aoart  from  his  unin* 
viting  comrade,  but  he  cannot  long  avoid  contact ;  his  azure  robes 
are  hrst  spotted,  then  soiled,  and  at  last  they  are  n.iserably  and 
hopelessly  discat  'ired  and  embrowned,  and  they  must  roll  on  hun- 
dreds of  miles,  and  pass  New  Orleans  a  muddy  compound,  until 
they  are  purified,  but  lost  in  the  sapphire  waves  of  the  Mexican 
Gulf. 

We  reached  Alton  about  nine  o'clock :  it  is  a  pretty  p>uoe, 
which  I  did  not  see  in  the  dark  on  Saturday;  the  last  ^oity  miles, 
too,  of  that  journey  was  through  a  rather  fine  country  i:/  prairie, 
but  woody.  Before  leaving  the  Reindeer  steamer,  I  had  somn 
conversation  with  a  sensible  lady  from  Chicago,  who  regretted  the 
way  in  which  the  great  majority  of  American  young  women  are 
sacrificing  health  to  vanity.  She  agrees  that  it  is  not  so  much 
climate  as  bad  management  which  crowds  the  cemetary  with  early 
victims.  An  idea  has  gone  forth  that  fragility  is  interesting,  and 
young  ladies  almost  cultivate  ill-health  !  3he  told  me  that,  stand- 
ing  at  her  own  door  one  morning,  she  observed  three  girls  between 
twelve  and  fourteen  passing  to  school;  it  was  damp  weather: 
these  children  were  lightly  and  showily  attired,  with  thin  silk 
slippers  to  set  off  their  feet  to  advantage — instead  of  good  sub- 
stantial boots.  These  kind  of  absurdities  arc  common  in  the 
United  States.  I  have  found  out  a  reason  why  ladies  travelling 
alone  must  be  extravagantly  dressed;  without  that  precaution 
they  meet  with  no  attention  and  little  civility, — decidedly  much 
less  than  in  any  other  country.  So  here  it  is  not  as  women  but 
as  ladies,  they  are  to  be  cared  for '  — arJ  this  in  Democratic 
America  1 

I  saw  flocks  of  prairie  birds,  be  Ii  gL*ingj,nd  coming;  and  I 
was  told  that  they  are  a  kind  of  grouse,  generally  called  '  prairie 
chickens.'  If  they  were  roasted  as  we  roast  game  in  England,  they 
would  be  very  good :  I  have  only  tasted  them  broiled,  so  as  to  be 
".?ry  and  hard.  There  was  nothing  which  struck  my  fancy,  in  the 
iiianr.tr  of  expression,  as  peculiar  in  prairie  life.  I  no  longer  hear 
diO  singular  affirmation  *  Yes,  sirree,'  or  *  No,  sirree,'  which  was 
o>adc  use  of  among  the  Adiioudack  Mountains,  to  express  some- 
thing very  positive. 


UILWAUKIE. 


309 


Octobci  3,  Milwauhie. — I  am  brought  to  a  stand-still.  We 
arrived  at  Chicago  too  late  for  the  Mackinaw  steamer  of  yester- 
day. I  was  told  tl  it  by  taking  the  cars  here  earl^  this  morning, 
we  should  get  a  lake  conveyance ;  but,  on  reaching  this  place,  not 
only  my  hope  of  a  steamer  till  Friday  is  vain,  but  owing  to  what 
is  called  a  State  fair,  it  has  been  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that 
I  have  procured  a  tiny  bed-room  in  a  secondary  hotel.  The  town, 
though  scattered  and  extensive,  is  crammed  to  overflowing.  I 
am  glad  to  observe  that  in  these  parts  the  taste  of  the  settlers  in- 
duces them  to  preserve  the  Indian  names.  We  passed  to-^^^ay  by 
several  places,  such  as  Waakeyau,  Shenosha,  &c. ;  near  the  last- 
mentioned  town  I  observed  a  beautiful  Gentian,  growing  in  dry 
places  by  the  side  of  the  track.  I  do  n  t  know  one  exactly  like 
it ;  the  colour  was  as  brilliant  as  Bavurica,  but  several  inches 
taller. 

The  site  of  Milwaukie  upon  Lake  Michigan  is  supposed  to 
have  been  once  covered  by  its  waters,  and  fresh-water  shells  are 
found  in  the  elevations  behind  the  city. 

On  Saturday  morning  I  may  reach  Mackinaw,  in  the  steamer 
Niagara  J  but  the  delay  I  have  met  with  puts  an  end  to  all  hope 
of  my  reaching  Lake  Superior,  as  Saint  Mari-3  is  too  distant,  and 
I  must  follow  the  Collingwood  line  from  Lake  Michigan  across 
Lake  Huron,  then  to  Toronto  by  land,  and  b\  Lake  Ontario  to 
Oswego,  so  as  to  reach  Utica  on  Monday. 

Thursday,  October  4. — ^Yesterday  afternoon  I  set  forth  upon 
a  voyage  of  discovery,  to  find  out  a  spot  from  w  aich  I  might  tako 
a  sketch  of  the  city.  Making  my  way  over  a  jridge  to  higher 
ground,  it  was  evident  that  the  present  site  of  Milwaukie  was  once 
covered  by  water ;  below  some  bluffs,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
present  lake,  there  is  a  most  distinct  beach,  and  shells  are  found 
just  beyond.  The  town  authorities  are  going  to  great  expense  to 
cut  through  and  level  these  bluffs,  which,  left  as  :hey  are,  would 
diversify  and  ornament  their  town.  This  levelling  process  will 
puzzle  future  geologists.  I  think  the  water  here  tastes  of  iron. 
By-the-bye,  I  quite  forgot  to  n\ention  the  wonderful  Iron  Moun- 
tain of  Missouri,  situated  in  St  Francis  County,  about  eighty 


400 


IRON  MOimTAm. 


II.! 


miles  south-west  or  south  of  St.  Louis  :  it  rises  to  a  height  two 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  surrounding  country,  and  there 
is  said  to  be  many  million  tons  of  ore  above  the  surface  1  It  ia 
known  as  specular  oxide,  and  yields  from  sixty  to  seventy  per 
cent,  of  pure  iron.  There  is  also  the  Pilot  Knob,  Shepherd's 
Mountain,  and  other  valuable  deposits  in  Madison  County,  on  the 
line  of  the  Iron  Mountain  Railroad.  These  deposits  vary  in  their 
character  and  produce ;  and  yield  iron  adapted  to  various  pur- 
poses. There  are  immense  works  and  forges  erected  in  Franklin 
County.  About  fifty  miles  west  of  St.  Louis  are  large  iron  works, 
and  in  various  other  localities  along  the  Mississippi ;  abundance 
of  iron  is  found  also  at  that  place  on  the  Macamaco,  where  iron 
has  been  manufactured  for  some  years  past.  The  South-west 
branch  of  the  Pacific  Railroad  passes  through  extensive  deposits 
of  minerals — iron,  copper,  lead,  and  coal  sufficient  to  work  all  the 
mines  on  the  line ;  indeed,  it  is  believed  the  metalliferous  region 
of  Missouri  covers  an  area  of  near  thirteen  millions  of  acres  :  it 
also  extends  into  Arkansas  and  the  Indian  territory ;  that  coun- 
try is  said  to  be  all  magnesian  limestone,  rich  in  lead.  It  sur- 
prises me  to  hear  that  the  Iron  Mountain  is  thickly  timbered :  I 
should  have  expected  it  to  be  devoid  of  trees  of  any  size.  I 
made  my  sketch  this  morning,  from  a  house  belonging  to  Mr. 

G ,  which  stands  upon  an  isolated  blufiF,  the  earth  having 

been  so  cut  away  all  around  it  as  to  leave  the  buildings  above  in 
a  doubtful  state  of  security.  Mr.  G told  me  they  are  seek- 
ing compensation  for  the  injury  done  to  their  property,  as  it  will 
be  impossible  for  them  to  remain  on  it  another  year.  I  walked 
up  to  look  at  the  fair,  but  as  there  was  a  great  number  of  people, 
I  was  afraid  to  encounter  so  large  a  crowd,  and  kept  aloof;  at 
the  same  time  I  did  not  see  one  instance  of  intoxication  or  disor- 
der :  the  visitants  were  generally  well  attired,  good-humoured, 
and  quietly  amusing  themselves.  In  short,  this  State  fair  of  Mil- 
waukie  was  a  very  creditable  specimen  of  the  conduct  and  civili- 
zation of  the  citizens  of  Wisconsin. 

This  afternoon  closes  in  with  a  wetting  fog.     I  hope  it  does 
uot  intend  to  be  bo  thick  to-morrow  as  to  drive  me  back  to 


i 


A   WORD   TO  TRAVELLERS. 


401 


Chicago ;  for  I  will  not  embark  on  the  lake  and  take  the  CoUing- 
wood  line,  unless  the  weather  promises  well,  though  I  shall  regret 
to  return  again  vid  Toledo  and  BuflFalo. 

Milwaukie,  October  5. — At  nine  this  morning  I  am  told  the 
Niagara  has  arrived ;  and  after  a  storm  last  night  the  weather  is 
fine. 

On  board  the  Niagara  Steamer,  October  6. — According  to 
the  usual  fashion  in  this  country  of  furnishing  false  information, 
after  giving  up  my  rooms  and  going  down,  bag  and  baggage,  to 
the  wharf,  the  only  vessel  there  was  a  steamer  going  back  to 
Chicago.  Fortunately,  at  the  steam  agency  office,  I  haoi  fallen  in 
with  the  principal  agent  for  the  Collingwood  line,  to  whom  I  feel 
indebted  for  a  civility  and  attention  I  should  not  have  received 
from  his  subordinates.  He  got  my  things  safely  taken  care  of 
before  he  was  obliged  to  embark  for  Chicago,  and  did  all  in  his 
power  to  facilitate  my  passage  in  the  Niagara  whenever  she  might 
arrive ;  but  six  hours  of  tiresome  waiting  on  that  wharf,  in  very 
uncivilized  company,  ensued.  At  last,  in  despair,  I  went  up  to 
the  office,  with  the  idea  of  changing  my  ticket  for  the  railroad. 
Evidently  there  was  a  great  demur  about  allowiDg  this.  I  had 
been  unwise  enough,  upon  the  faith  of  the  Niagara^ s  supposed  ar- 
rival, to  pay  for  my  tickets  through  to  Oswego.  I  recommend 
travellers  in  America  never  to  take  tickets  in  advance,  beyond 
the  first  office,  as,  if  anything  occurs  to  make  a  change  of  route 
necessary,  they  must  bear  in  mind  that  refund  is  a  very  bad  fund. 
However,  just  as  I  had  secured  a  carriage  to  remove  my  things 
from  the  wharf  to  the  railroad,  with  a  determination  to  go  off, 
and  take  my  chance  of  ultimate  justice,  the  steamer  was  an- 
nounced to  be  in  sight,  and  upon  her  reaching  the  dock  we  found 
that  bad  weather  had  delayed  her  departure  from  Chicago  until 
eight  in  the  morning,  although  a  telegraphic  message  shown  to 
mo  at  the  office  stated  she  had  left  that  port  at  one  hour  after 
midnight.  Of  course,  if  such  had  been  the  case,  her  delay  of 
seven  hours  after  the  usual  time  gave  reasonable  cause  for  anxiety. 
Captain  Miller  was  very  obliging,  and  I  immediately  procured  a 
comfortable  berth,  where  I  eould  rest  after  so  many  hours  of  sus^ 
pense  and  anxiety. 


402 


WANT  OF   CONSIDERATION. 


Of  course,  this  detention  puts  Lake  Superior  and  St.  Marie 
out  of  the  question.  The  doubt  is,  whether  I  can  even  attain 
TJtica  by  the  day  I  am  engaged  to  be  there.  If  we  reach  Toronto 
too  late,  we  may  miss  the  steamer  to  Oswego,  and  be  again  de 
layed  some  hours.  The  lake  is  not  very  smooth :  it  still  retains 
some  agitation  from  the  storm  of  Thursday,  and  I  see  many 
people  suffering  from  sickness ;  however,  it  was  well  to  be  on  shore 
during  the  bad  weather.  So  far  my  delay  was  a  fortunate  one. 
Last  night  I  suffered  from  an  illustration  of,  the  want  of  thought 
and  consideration  for  others,  which  appears  to  me  to  make  itself 
more  evident  among  the  population,  particularly  of  the  young 
generation,  in  America  than  in  Europe.  Being  much  fatigued, 
I  retired  early,  and  the  same  thing  was  the  case  with  a  majority 
of  passengers ;  but  there  was  a  piano  in  the  saloon,  close  to  my 
berth.  After  ten  o'clock  at  night,  a  young  girl  sat  down  to  per- 
form— not  harmonious  music,  for  such  a  disturbance  might  have 
been  forgiven ;  but  she  perseveringly  amused  herself  by  striking 
the  instrument  in  a  style  so  utterly  discordant,  that,  after  a  while 
of  patient  endurance,  I  opened  my  door,  and  inquired  whether  it 
was  right  at  that  time  of  night  to  keep  the  passengers  from  sleep- 
ing ?  She  repeated  my  words  with  an  air  of  ludicrous  imperti- 
nence, and,  though  she  paused  for  a  little  while,  before  long  the 
annoyance  was  continued,  if  not  by  her,  by  others,  without  the 
smallest  excuse  or  apology !  Thus  do  the  rising  generation  here 
mistake  rudeness  for  Republicanism,  and  selfishness  for  independ- 
ence ;  but  we  must  not  be  too  hard  upon  them.  As  this  great  and 
growing  nation  advances  in  life  and  experience,  it  will  advance 
also  in  civilization  and  true  Christian  politeness;  Rowdyism  will 
cease  to  be  Considered  manliness,  or  extravagance  gentility. 
Noble  American  spirits  are  setting  an  example,  correcting  these 
errors.  A  few  more  years,  and  their  influence  will  permeate  and 
pervade  the  length  and  breadth  of  American  society.  As  yet, 
tliut  society  is  but  roughed  out — not  polished :  the  polishing  will 
follow  in  due  time. 

Already  in  Boston  I  have  remarked  that  simplicity  and  com- 
fort are  advancing  beyond  ostentation ;  dress  and  furniture  there 


DARK   llOOMS. 


403 


evince  more  attention  to  suitability  than  to  mere  show.  In  every 
other  part  of  the  United  States,  with  the  exception  of  Mr. 
G 's,  of  Canandaigua,  and  one  or  two  other  houses,  magnifi- 
cent curtains,  expensive  carpets,  and  fine  mirrors,  are  more 
abounding  than  in  England ;  but  useful  tables,  writing  materials, 
and  other  little  comforts  wc  consider  imperative,  are  wanting. 
That  singular  fashion — which  is  almost  general — of  making  the 
drawing-room  and  parlours  so  obscure,  that  the  inmates  might  as 
well  live  in  cellars,  is, one  reason  why  necessaries  for  employment 
are  scarce.  Tables  would  be  almost  useless  where  no  one  can  see 
to  write  or  draw.  I  have  been  told  it  is  the  heat  of  this  climate 
which  makes  people  thus  darkeu  their  rooms ;  but  they  have  a 
long  winter,  and  sunshine  ;3  as  carefully  excluded  in  cold  weather 
as  in  hot ;  besides,  I  never  heard  that  in  Italy  there  is  such  an 
intense  love  of  obscurity.  It  has  happened  that  I  have  opened 
a  blind  in  some  of  the  hotels ;  and  the  chambermaid,  upon  enter- 
ing, rushed  to  close  it  with  an  air  of  as  much  alarm  as  if  the 
sun  was  shining  in  to  the  injury  of  some  valuable  picture. 

This  morning  we  have  had  some  negro  music ;  two  darkies 
singing  duets,  accompanying  themselves  with  a  guitar  and  violin. 
Their  voices  good,  and  (like  those  of  most  of  the  negroes)  in  per- 
fect tune.  One  song  had  a  chorus  imitative  of  barking  dogs,  which 
amused  the  younger  passengers  extremely.  By  eight  at  night  we 
reached  Mackinaw — that  island,  with  a  fort  once  known  as  Mich- 
ilimackinac,  a  name  I  had  so  often  heard  in  my  childhood  from  an 
old  friend,  whose  husband  served  in  the  early  American  conflicts 
between  the  English  and  French,  that  I  wished  much  to  see  the 
place  which  owned  it,  but  it  was  too  dark  for  much  observation ; 
I  could  only  tell  that  a  fort  is  still  in  existence,  and  there  is  a 
large  pointed  rock,  like  a  sugar-loaf.  The  town  is  small,  with  a 
population  of  about  two  thousand.  A  steamer  lay  alongside  the 
wharf ;  she  proved  to  be  the  Lady  Elgin,  the  very  boat  in  which, 
if  it  had  not  been  for  false  information,  we  should  have  embarked 
on  Tuesday  night,  at  Chicago.  That  apparent  disappointment 
has  proved  an  advantage,  for  she  was  disabled  in  the  next  day's 
storm ;  and  we  escaped  both  fright  and  danger,  while  we  should 
not  have  been  advanced  one  mile  on  our  voyage. 


404 


THE   *  LADY   ELGIN.' 


Toronto,  October  8. — We  arrived  at  Collingwood  r  y  seven 
o'clock  this  morning,  after  a  tedious  and  anxious  pansage  from 
Mackinaw — anxiety  for  others  more  than  for  ourselves.     As  the 
Lady  Elgin  was  not  considered  in  a  safe  position  at  that  place 
and  had  no  means  there  of  repairing  her  damages,  our  captain  de 
cided  upon  taking  her  in  tow.     The  following  night  and  daj 
proved  rough ;  and,  if  the  heaving  of  the  vessel  had  caused  thi 
towing  lines  to  give  way,  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  tho 
Niagara  to  have  afforded  more  assistance.     What  an  awful  con- 
sideration that  such  an  accident  would  have  obliged  us  to  leave 
the  unfortunate  Lady  Elgin  and  her  passengers  to  their  fate ; 
which  (as  she  was  quite  helpless)  would  probably  have  been  a 
watery  grave.     It  was  a  great  relief  when  once  we  passed  Lake 
Huron  and  the  lower  end  of  the  Georgian  Bay,  for  then  appre- 
hension was  over.  • 

During  this  voyage  we  saw  the  Manitoolia  Islands,  and  Fox 
and  Duck  Islands ;  of  course  I  abandoned  all  notion  of  Sault  St. 
Marie  and  Lake  Superior.  The  cars  received  us  upon  landing  at 
Collingwood ;  and  passing  by  Lake  Simcoe,  I  was  glad,  after 
travelling  ninety  miles  before  breakfast,  to  reach  this  place  by 
eleven  o'clock.  At  ni  a  in  the  evening  we  must  embark  upon 
Lake  Ontario,  in  the  Canada  steamer  for  Oswego.  I  shall  be 
glad  when  my  last  voyage  upon  these  inland  seas  is  happily  accom- 
plished. Again  we  were  subjected  to  false  information,  although 
I  sent  down  to  the  agent  who  had  charge  of  the  baggage  (which 
was  checked  through  to  Oswego)  to  ask  for  the  steamer  belonging 

to  the  Collingwood  line.     R was  informed  that  our  passage 

must  be  made  in  the  Canada. 

'  Are  you  sure  that  is  the  Collingwood  line  ? '  she  asked ;  and 
was  answered,  *  Oh,  it  is  all  one.'  Yet,  when  we  showed  our 
tickets  upon  going  on  board  the  steamer,  we  were  informed  that 
they  were  useless,  and  that  our  passage  must  be  again  paid  for ; 
besides  which,  we  then  found  that  our  baggage  had  been  previ- 
ously sent  at  five  o'clock  by  the  3Iay flower  ;  so  there  was  the  in- 
convenience of  its  absence  added  to  additional  expense.  Our 
night  voyage  across  Lake  Ontario  was  a  quiet  and  safe  one ;  the 


SILURIAN   FOSSILS. 


405 


'y  seven 
sage  from 
As  the 
»at  place 
iptain  de 
and  daj 
lused  thi 
e  for  tho 
f^ful  con- 
to  leave 
eir  fate; 
been  a 
id  Lake 
n  appre- 

nd  Fox 
ault  St. 
iding  at 
d,  after 
lace  by 
k  upon 
aall  be 
accom- 
fchough 
(which 
onging 


;  and 
d  our 
i  that 
ifor; 
previ- 
\ie  in- 
Our 


Canada  is  a  fine  large  steamer.  We  reached  Oswego  by  eight 
o'clock,  and  if  it  had  not  been  for  unexpected  delays  in  attaining 
the  landing  wharf,  we  should  have  been  in  time  for  the  nine 
o'clock  train  to  Syracuse;  but  as  it  was  we  had  to  wait,  with  as 
much  patience  as  we  might,  until  half-past  eleven. 

By  three  o'clock  I  reached  Utica,  to  find  a  never-failing  cor- 
dial  reception  from  my  friends  there.  In  the  course  of  the  after- 
noon Mrs.  Seymour  took  me  to  see  Colonel  Jowett's  fine  collec- 
tion of  Silurian  fossils ;  there  I  found  very  curious  and  unique 
specimens  of  the  early  crustaceans,  a  great  variety  of  Trilobites, 
and  some  things  I  never  before  heard  of;  the  most  singular  were 
found  at  Niagara  and  Trenton.  Colonel  Jowett  was  so  obliging 
as  to  offer  me  some  duplicates,  which  I  shall  like  much  to  have. 
At  night  I  took  leave  of  Governor  and  Mrs.  Seymour,  and  parted 
from  them  with  a  deep  and  grateful  sense  of  the  untiring  and  af- 
fectionate kindness  they  have  evinced  towards  me  during  the 
past  year.  The  early  train  for  Albany  started  at  five  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  and  I  reached  Awastanook,  near  Lenox,  sufficiently 
early  for  a  pleasant  drive  in  the  afternoon. 

Thursday y  October  10. — Mr.  D went  with  me  in  search  of 

a  white  rose  I  saw  blowing  last  July  upon  Rattlesnake  Mountain, 
as  the  season  is  now  favourable  for  taking  up  suckers.  We  were 
successful  in  finding  an  abundant  crop,  and  I  am  rather  in  hopes 
that  this  Awastanook  rose  will  prove  a  novelty  to  the  botanical 
world. 

Thursday  afternoon,  and  all  Friday,  the  rain  poured  down  in 
torrents ;  I  thought  myself  fortunate  in  being  comfortably  housed, 
and  that  this  storm  did  not  catch  us  on  Lake  Ontario. 

Saturday. — The  morning,  though  cloudy,  was  only  wet  under- 
foot ;  a  carriage  was  ordered,  and  I  drove  with  one  of  my  friends, 
to  fulfil  a  promise  I  had  made  to  an  occupant  of  the  farm  from 
which  I  had  made  a  sketch  of  Lenox  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, that  she  should  see  the  drawing.  We  found  with  her  two 
intelligent  young  women ;  daughters  I  conclude.  The  premises 
resembled  a  comfortable  English  farm;  a  large  spinning-wheel 
in  the  parlour.     I  observed  maps,  and  other  indica> 


406 


INDIAN   NAMBS. 


tions  of  education,  with  a  certain  degree  of  refinement ;  and  all 
the  inmates  evinced  an  intense  and  delighted  interest  in  my 
sketch ;  they  expressed  the  most  lively  gratitude  for  being  allowed 
to  see  it,  and  eagerly  pointed  out  every  familiar  tree  and  cottage. 
In  return,  I  learned  the  Indian  name  of  that  pretty  lake,  on  the 
borders  of  which  Hawthorne  wrote  his  Seven  Gables — Macki- 
naio, — '  the  Mountain  Mirror  ; '  what  an  improvement  upon  that 
un-euphonious  appellation  of  Stockbridge  Pond  I 

Monday^  October  16. — This  morning  at  nine  o'clock  I  must 
take  leave  of  Awastanook  forever,  Thankful  for  my  enjoyment 
of  its  lovely  scenery,  and  convinced,  too,  that  this  spot  will  ever 
remain  impressed  upon  my  memory,  as  a  'Mountain  Mirror,' 
which  to  me  has  reflected  only  truth  and  beauty. 

Boston^  October  16. — Although  I  came  by  railroad  from  the 
Berkshire  Hills  last  summer,  I  was  yesterday  still  more  strongly 
impressed  by  the  beautiful  country  it  passes  through ;  perhaps  the 
late  rains  have  embrowned  and  deepened  the  rapid  torrents  and 
numerous  lakes  of  that  Highland  district;  while  crimson  and 
golden  tints  addo''*  brilliancy  to  forests  which  are  at  all  times  va- 
ried in  foliage.  I  could  only  regret  that  almost  all  the  houses 
and  farms  are  so  very  white  and  uniform  in  appearance ;  I  did 
once  see  a  sky-blue  stable,  and  occasionally  a  red  barn,  and  such 
colours  were  quite  a  relief  to  the  monotony.  How  subdued  and 
quiet  the  grey  stone  buildings  of  England  will  look,  after  the  al- 
most universal  white  paint  of  American  erections. 

I  find  myself  again  under  that  friendly  roof  which  sheltered 
me  first,  and  promises  to  shelter  me  last  on  this  side  of  the  At- 
lantic ;  as  I  shall  embark  on  the  24th,  upon  my  homeward 
voyage,  this  will  probably  be  the  conclusion  of  my  letters.  Be- 
fore closing  them,  I  must  once  more  return  to  the  subject  of 
Slavery  :  in  the  first  place,  to  extract  a  few  observations  from  a 
letter  written  by  a  gentleman  of  known  experience  and  ability ; 
and  then  to  answer  an  accusation  made  against  me  by  some 
Northern  friends,  who  aflSrm  that  I  have  not  spent  sufficient 
time  among  slaves  and  slaveholders  to  judge  fairly.  My  cor- 
respondent says : — '  The  phenomenon  of  African  Slavery,  as  it  is 


hemarks  on  slavery. 


407 


sometimes  called,  is  in  truth  no  phenomenon  at  all.  Where 
is  the  country,  or  the  period  of  history,  wherein  slavery  did  not 
exist  in  some  shape  or  the  other  ?  Slavery  has  always  existed, 
and  will  continue,  as  long  as  there  is  a  disparity  in  the  intellect 
and  energy  of  men.  I  do  not  enter  into  the  question  of  the 
Unity  of  Baces,  which  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  Bible  au- 
thority :  it  will  be  sufficient  to  assert  that  this  race,  known  as 
African,  is  inferior  to  the  Caucasian.  As  a  people,  the  blacks  are 
sensual  and  stupid,  lazy,  improvident,  and  vicious ;  unless  under 
guidance,  they  have  no  idea  of  cherishing  those  virtues  which 
elevate  our  common  nature ;  they  have  an  alacrity  for  sinking — 
nothing  more.  In  their  own  country  they  are  either  savages 
or  slaves.  There  is  at  this  time,  and  there  have  been  for  long 
periods,  a  large  number  of  free  coloured  people  in  the  slave- 
holding  and  non-slaveholding  States  of  the  Union ;  but  even 
constant  attrition  against  Yankee  sharpness  and  shrewdness, 
has  failed  to  elicit  one  scintillation  of  talent  or  genius  from  this 
race.  When  they  pass  from  bondage,  it  is  only  to  swell  the 
volume  of  insignificance  or  vice  which  has  characterized  their 
past  history.  But  besides  this,  I  would  remark  that  we  should 
reflect  upon  the  fact  of  Slavery,  more  than  upon  the  manner 
of  its  regulation.  The  Virginian  negro,  who  is  held  by  law  as 
a  slave,  is  really  little  more  a  slave  than  the  man  who  works 
in  the  mines  and  manufactories  of  England.  The  first  is  held 
in  subjection  by  a  well-devised  system  of  police,  the  other  by  a 
necessity  stronger  than  any  police.  It  is  no  answer  to  say 
that  the  Englishman  can,  if  he  chooses,  leave  his  employer; 
that  power  only  exists  in  theory,  as  the  penalty  for  severing  his 
bon3s  is  starvation.  II  is  real  master  is  Capital — which,  being 
in  its  nature  greedy,  grasping,  and  selfish,  it  doles  out  to  human 
labour  the  smallest  possible  amount  which  will  sustain  life,  and 
keep  the  working  machine  in  due  order.  There  are  three  mil- 
lions of  slaves  in  the  United  States,  and  they  constitute  the 
only  black  people  who  are  progressing  in  civilization  and  Chris- 
tianity— who  are  orderly,  quiet,  contented,  and  industrious. 
Thev  are  well  fed,  well  clad,  and  in  physical  comforts  will  com* 


408 


EEMARE8  OK  SLAVERT. 


pare  advantageously  with  the  same  number  of  operatives  in  any 
part  of  Europe. 

'  The  only  favourable  results  yet  marked  out  for  the  African 
race  are  due  to  the  American  system  of  slavery ;  and  until  ex- 
perience shall  have  demonstrated  that  some  other  policy  will  re- 
sult in  greater  blessings  to  the  negro,  I  cannot  but  regard  efforts 
to  abolish  the  present  state  of  things  as  thoughtless  and  unwise, 
if  not  unjust  and  inhuman.' 

So  much  for  the  opinion  of  a  good  man  who  has  long  studied 
the  question  here.  My  visit  to  the  South  may  not  have  enabled 
me  to  ferret  out  and  investigate  all  the  evils  there  may  be  to 
discover  there,  and  it  would  be  absurd  to  ignore  the  possible  ex- 
istence of  cruel  masters  and  ill-used  slaves ;  but  I  saw  nothing, 
and  heard  very  little,  which  would  substantiate  accusations ;  yet 
early  rising  and  active  haLli^;  gave  me  opportunities  of  using  my 
eyes  and  ears,  in  the  fields  and  the  forests,  and  in  places  where 
not  many  travellers  would  be  suspected.  The  varied  aspects  of 
New  York,  and  Paris,  and  London,  are  dwelt  upon  and  described 
every  day,  and  yet  how  few  writers  think  it  necessary  to  seek  out 
and  reprobate  the  slave-holders  of  those  cities.  Now  I  hear  it 
said — '  Bad  things  may  be  done  in  free  countries,  but  they  are 
not  done  legally.' 

The  abuses  of  slavery  are  no  less  illegal ;  and  let  us  confess, 
and  acknowledge  repentantly,  how  cruelly  England,  or  rather 
English  law,  did  first  neglect,  and  then  persecute  children,  human 
beings  born,  and  perhaps  nurtured  in  crime,  through  the  indo- 
lence and  negligence  of  society.  Then,  because  of  the  very  weak- 
ness and  ignorance  thus  induced  and  fastened  upon  these  helpless 
ones,  have  they  not  been  incarcerated  in  prisons  ?  denied  those 
very  occupations  and  exercises  positively  necessary  for  the  moral, 
intellectual,  and  physical  improvement  of  growing  creatures? 
and  when  at  last  the  consequences  of  such  treatment  became  ovi- 
i  meed  by  an  increase  of  vicious  propensities,  the  poor  outcasts,  if 
no  J  legally  murdered  according  to  ancient  law,  have  at  any  rate 
been  whipped  and  tormented  until  their  hands  were  raised  against 
every  man,  as  those  of  every  man  have  been  against  them  i 


KPILOOUE. 


409 


Lves  in  any 

the  African 
id  until  ex- 
licy  will  re- 
gard efforts 
and  unwise, 

ong  studied 
ave  enabled 
i  may  be  to 
possible  ex- 
aw  nothing, 
nations ;  yet 
oi  using  my 
laces  where 
aspects  of 
d  described 
to  seek  out 
w  I  hear  it 
ut  they  are 

us  confess, 
or  rather 
ren,  human 
L  the  indo- 
very  weak- 
sse  helpless 
enied  those 
the  moral, 
creatures  ? 
)ecame  cvi- 
outcasts,  if 
at  any  rate 
scd  against 
3m  1 


Of  late  years  the  British  people  have  opened  their  eyes,  and 
they  have  been  looking  into,  and  endeavouring  to  remedy,  such 
evils ;  a,nd  surely  every  nation  has  work  enough  to  do  at  home ; 
and  if  each  will  only  put  aside  distant,  and  perhaps  ignorant  phi- 
lanthropy, until  they  have  done  their  own  immediate  business,  the 
world  will  be  in  a  fair  way  to  be  mended ;  and  those  crimes  and 
sorrows  which  aflFcct  the  white  race  quite  as  heavily  and  pitiably 
as  Slave  Institutions  press  upon  the  black,  will  rapidly  become 
ameliorated  and  consoled. 

In  the  meanwhile,  if  the  observations  in  these  letters  jar 
against  commonly-received  and  long-cherished  opinions  and  prin- 
ciples, I  am  sorry  to  differ.  Let  it  be  remembered  that  every 
case  has  two  sides.  Hitherto,  of  Slavery  one  side  only  has  been 
made  prominent.  It  will  be  admitted  by  most  intelligent  think- 
ers, that  open  discussion  is  ^^scful;  and  if  I  have  drawn  mis- 
taken conclusions,  they  must  ultimately  rectify  themselves.  I  am 
not  conscious  of  being  imbued  with  a  spirit  of  partisanship ;  and 
I  trust  nothing  I  have  said  will  arouse  feelings  of  bitterness,  or 
in  any  degree  wound  that  kind  spirit,  through  and  by  which 
alone  this  subject  should  be  approached. 

These  letters  were  hastily  written,  sent  off  by  post  uncopied, 
and  generally  uncorrected.  They  ask  for  indulgence ;  but,  as  I 
have  always  believed  that  the  fresh  impressions  of  any  commonly 
intelligent  observer  must  have  some  degree  of  interest,  so  I  make 
no  further  apology  for  this  publication ;  and  I  shall  only  add  one 
or  two  more  suggestions  with  regard  to  Slavery.  If  that  indi- 
genous earth-nut,  from  which  such  a  quantity  of  oil  is,  or  can 
be,  expressed,  were  to  meet  with  sufficient  encouragement  upon 
the  African  coasts,  and  if  the  Blockading  Squadron  were  ex- 
changed for  merchant-ships  to  carry  away  the  produce,  the  traffic 
in  slaves  would  gradually  be  given  up  for  a  more  I'cmunerative 
''"cupation,  and  it  would  be  one  which  might  absorb  all  the  sur- 
plus black  labor.  Commercial  remedies  are  the  only  certain  and 
legitimate  slavery  preventives.  By  using  them,  we  should  save 
white  lives  as  well  as  black  lives,  and  white  money  as  well  as 
black  interests ;  and  if  the  slaveholders  in  the  South  American 


410 


SPILOO'DE. 


I 

^ 


States  can  bo  induced  to  co-operate  with  us  in  the  Christianizing 
and  civilizing  of  Africa  by  a  law  which  may  enable  all  those 
black  slaves  who,  showing  sufficient  economy  and  forethought  to 
save  money  for  self-purchase,  are  willing  to  buy  themselves,  on 
condition  of  going  to  Africa,  much  good  can  be  accomplished. 
It  is  my  belief,  you  may  as  well  attempt  to  improve  the  morals, 
and  add  to  the  happiness  of  idiots,  by  turning  them  out  of  asy- 
lums, as  to  imagine  you  can  benefit  the  'darkies '  by  abolitionism. 

Your.3  affectionately, 

A.  M.  M. 


If  any  wishes  should  be  expressed  for  the  publication  of  a 
series  of  Sketches  which  would  illustrate  these  volumes,  Messrs. 
Willis  of  Henrietta  Street,  Covent  Garden,  have  authority  to 
rectiive  applications  concemiDg  it 

DectmbeTf  1855. 


TBB  END. 


all  those 
bought  to 
selves,  on 
mplished. 
9  morals, 
it  of  asy- 
litionism. 

M.M. 


ition  of  a 
I,  Messrs. 
liority  to 


